#  .  '^^ 


jNk-^> 


'^JW'Pkf,, 


'^4    '^: 


77*~''  AiWF?:^- 


'  ^■^. 


..3    ■ 


K?4^L^:5^^-.- 


TIME    TABLE. 


MEATS. 

Mntton per  pound. 

Potted  Beef  .    " 
Oomed  Beef     " 

Ham •• 

Turkey  " 

Ohicken 

Fowl 

Tripe 


BOILING. 


15 
.30 

30 
.  18 

15 
.15 
.20 

3 


FISH. 

Oodflsh per  pound. 

Haddock "  "  . 

Halibut "  "  . 

Blue "  ••  . 

Bass ••  •• 

Salmon "  " 

Small  Fish  "  "  . 


6 
.6 
15 
10 
10 
10 
.6 


Time, 
minutes, 
to  35  min. 
minutes, 
to  20  min. 
minutes. 

to  30  min. 
to  5  hours. 


Time, 
minutes. 


to  15  min. 
minutes. 


Lobster  30  to  40  min. 


VEGETABLES. 


20 
20 
.15 
.20 
30 


Potatoes 

Asparagus  

Peas  

String  Beans 

Lima        "      

Spinach 15 

Turnips 30 

Beets 30 

Cabbage 20 

Cauliflower    20 

Brussels  Sprouts  10 

Onions 30 

Parsnips 30 

Green  Com 20 


Time, 
to  30  min. 
to  25  " 
to  20  " 
to  30  •• 
to  40  •' 
to  20  •• 
minutes. 

min.  or  more. 


to  15  min. 
to  40     " 
to  40     •• 
to  25     •• 


Macaroni 20  minutes. 

Bice  15  to  20  min. 


MEATS. 

Beef ,  ribs,  rare per  pound, 

"     "     weU  done. 
"     ••       boned  ftroUed  " 
Bound  of  Beef 

Mutton,  leg.  rare   " 

"         "    well  done  .  " 

"        loin,  rare " 

"        shoulder,  stnfEiBd" 
"        saddle,  rare ..." 

Lamb,  weU  done " 

Veal,      "     "    " 

Pork,      "     "     •• 

Venison,  rare " 

Ohicken " 

Goose  " 


BAKING. 


Time. 

8  to  10  min. 

12  to  15  " 

12  to  15  " 

12  to  15  " 

10  minutes. 

15 

8 

15 

9 

15 

18  to  20  min. 

20  minutes. 

10 

15 

18 

MEATS. 


Time. 


Fillet,  hot  oven 30  minutes. 

Braised  Meats 3   to  4  hours. 

Liver,  whole 2   hours. 

Turkey,  8  lbs IH  " 

"        very  large 3      " 

Birds,  small,  hot  oven      15  to  20  min. 
Ducks,  tame 45  minutes. 

"       wild,  very  hot  oven   15         " 

Partridge 35  to  40  min. 

Grouse 20  to  25     " 


FISH. 


Large  Fish 
Small     " 


Tima 
■  1    hour,  about 
20  to  30  min. 


Tlma 

Bread  1    hour. 

Biscuits 20  minutes. 


Tima 

Cake 20  to  45  min. 

Custards,  very  slow  oven ...  1    hour. 


BROILING. 


Time. 

Steak,  1  inch  thick 8  to  10  min. 

"  IH"        "     10  to  15  " 

Mutton  Chops,  French  8   minutes. 

"      English 10      " 

Spring  Ohicken 20      " 


Tima 

Quail 8    to  10  min. 

Grouse 15  minutes. 

Squabs  10  to  15  min. 

Shad,  Bluefish,  Trout       15  to  25    " 
Small  Fish 5    to  10    " 


i1. 


.4 


/i'^ 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/centurycookbookOOarnoiala 


THE  CENTURY  COOK 
BOOK 


THE 
CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


BY 


-^^U-,  i^^c-^^-^e^^-d^ 


This  hook  contains  directions  for  cooJcing  in  its  various  brancheSf 
from  the  simplest  forms  to  high-class  dishes  and  ornamental  pieces; 
a  group  of  New  England  dishes  furnished  by  Susan  Coolidge; 
and  a  few  receipts  of  distinctively  Southern  dishes.  It  gives  also 
the  etiquette  of  dinner  entertainments  —  how  to  serve  dinners — 
table  decorations,  and  many  items  relate  to  household  affairs 


"HOW  GOOD  DIGESTION  WAIT  ON  APPETITE 
AND  HEALTH  ON  BOTH" 

— JToc&etik 


NEW  YORK 

THE  CENTURY  CO. 

1906 


Copyright,  1895,  by 
The  Century  Co. 


The  DeVinne  Press. 


TX 
115 


"To  be  a  good  eook  means  the  knowledge  of 
all  fruits,  herbs,  balms  and  spices,  and  of  aU 
that  is  healing  and  sweet  in  field  and  groves, 
and  savory  in  meats ;  means  carefulness,  in- 
ventiveness, watchfulness,  willingness  and  read- 
iness of  appliance.  It  means  the  economy  of 
your  great-grandmothers  and  the  science  of 
modem  chemists.  It  means  much  tasting  and 
no  wasting.  It  means  English  thoroughness, 
French  art  and  Arabian  hospitality.  It  means, 
in  fine,  that  you  are  to  be  perfectly  and  always 
ladies  (loaf-givers)  and  are  to  see  that  every 
one  has  something  nice  to  ea<."— Ruskin. 


ATHOBISMS—BBILLAT-SA  YABIN. 

Les  animaux  se  repaissent;  Vhcmme  mange; 
Vhomme  d'esprit  seul  suit  manger. 

Dia  moi  ce  que  tu  manges,  Je  te  dirai  ee  que 
tues. 

Le  Criateur,  en  ohligeant  Vhomme  h  manger 
jpour  vivre,  Vy  invite  par  I'appetit  et  I'en  ricom- 
pensepar  leplaisir. 

La  table  est  le  seul  endroit  ou  Von  ne  s'ennuie 
jamais  pendant  lapremiire  Jiewre. 

La  decouverte  d'un  mets  nouveau  fait  plus 
pour  le  bonhettr  du  genre  humuin  que  la  dS- 
couverte  d'une  etoile. 

V<yrdre  des  comestiMes  est  des  plus  substan- 
ads  auxplus  Ugers. 

L'ordre  des  boissons  est  des  plus  tem^pSria 
aux  phis  ftimeuses  et  aux  plus  parfumles. 

On  dement  cuisinier  mais  on  nait  rStisseur, 

Attendre  trap  longtemps  un  convive  retar- 
dataire  est  un  manque  d^igards  pour  tous  eeux 
qui  sent  present. 

Celui  qui  refoit  ses  amis,  et  ne  donne  aucun 
soin  personnel  au  repas  qui  leur  est  pripari, 
n' est  pas  digne  d' avoir  des  amis. 

La  maitresse  de  la  maison  doit  toujours  s'as- 
surer  que  le  cafi  est  excellent,  et  le  m,aitre,  que 
Us  liqueurs  sont  de  premier  choix. 


PREFACE 

In  France  various  honors  are  awarded  to  cooks.  Accom- 
plished  chefs  de  cuisine  are  by  compliment  called  cordon-Ueu, 
which  is  an  ancient  and  princely  order.  A  successful  culinary 
production  takes  the  name  of  the  inventor,  and  by  it  his  fame 
often  lasts  longer  than  that  of  many  men  who  have  achieved 
positions  in  the  learned  professions.  Cooking  is  there  esteemed 
a  service  of  especial  merit,  hence  France  ranks  all  nations  in 
gastronomy. 

Although  definite  honors  are  not  conferred  on  cooks  else- 
where, good  cooking  is  everywhere  appreciated,  and  there  is  no 
reason  why  it  should  not  be  the  rule  instead  of  the  exception. 
In  large  establishments  it  may  be  said  to  prevail,  but  in  many 
moderate  households  the  daily  fare  is  of  a  quality  which  satis- 
fies no  other  sense  than  that  of  hunger,  the  hygienic  require- 
ments and  esthetic  possibilities  being  quite  unknown  or  dis- 
regarded. This  is  what  Savarin  designates  as  feeding,  in 
contradistinction  to  dining. 

The  author  believes  that  the  women  of  to-day,  because  of 
their  higher  education,  have  a  better  understanding  of  domes- 
tic duties;  that  hygiene,  economy,  system,  and  methods  are 
better  understood  and  more  generally  practised.  Children  are 
not  only  more  sensibly  clothed,  but  they  are  more  wholesomely 
fed,  and  households  are  directed  with  more  intelligent  care. 

It  is  hoped  that  this  book  will  inculcate  a  desire  to  learn  the 
simple  principles  of  cooking  for  the  benefits  which  such  know- 


X  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

ledge  will  give,  and  that  it  will  be  of  material  assistance  to  any 
woman  who  wishes  to  establish  and  maintain  a  well-ordered 
cuisine.  Receipts  are  given  for  simple  and  inexpensive  as  well 
as  elaborate  and  costly  dishes,  and  they  are  intended  to  be  of 
use  to  the  inexperienced  as  well  as  to  the  trained  cook.  The 
rules  are  given  in  precise  language,  with  definite  measurement 
and  time,  so  that  no  supervision  by  the  mistress  wUl  be  required 
for  any  receipt  given  the  cook. 

At  the  head  of  each  chapter  are  given  the  general  rules  for 
the  dishes  included  in  that  class.  Economy,  practicability,, and 
the  resources  of  the  average  kitchen  have  been  constantly  borne 
in  mind. 

The  illustrations,  it  is  believed,  wiU  aid  materially  in  serving 
dishes,  as  they  complete  and  demonstrate  the  receipts.  Many 
of  them  are  given  to  attract  attention  to  very  simple  dishes, 
which  might  be  selected  as  suited  to  one's  convenience,  but 
which  might  otherwise  be  overlooked  in  a  hasty  perusal  of  the 
text.  The  pictures  are  from  photographs  of  dishes,  many  of 
which  are  not  too  difficult  for  a  novice  to  undertake. 

The  author  has  fortunately  been  able  to  secure  from  Susan 
Coolidge  a  number  of  receipts  of  New  England  dishes ;  also  a 
few  distinctively  Southern  dishes  from  an  equally  experienced 
Southern  housekeeper.  These,  she  hopes,  will  enable  many 
who  have  strayed  from  home  to  enjoy  again  the  dishes  asso- 
ciated with  other  times  and  places. 

Much  care  has  been  taken  to  give  a  complete  alphabetical 
index,  so  that  anything  in  the  book  can  be  quickly  found,  even 
if  the  ordinary  classification  is  not  understood. 

The  chapters  on  etiquette,  serving,  etc.,  are  meant  to  aid  those 
young  housekeepers  who,  from  lack  of  observation  or  expe- 
rience, find  themselves  at  a  loss  to  remember  small  details 


PREFACE  xi 

when  the  responsibility  of  an  entertainment  falls  npon  them 
for  the  first  time. 

The  author,  in  speaking  of  this  book  to  friends,  has  had 
various  questions  asked  and  suggestions  given,  by  which  she 
has  endeavored  to  profit.  Some  of  the  questions  have  been 
the  following: 

"Have  you  given  receipts  suitable  for  a  family  of  two  or 
three  ? " 

"  Have  you  given  expedients,  so  if  articles  called  for  in  the 
receipts  are  not  at  hand  others  may  be  substituted  ? " 

"  Is  your  book  only  for  rich  people  ? " 

"  Is  it  not  a  mistake  to  use  French  names,  which  many  do  not 
understand  ? "  etc.,  etc. 

In  deference  to  the  last  suggestion,  she  has  explained  the 
meaning  of  certain  classes  of  dishes  known  only  by  the  French 
names,  and  which  would  lose  character  if  translated.  A  souffle, 
for  instance,  has  no  special  significance  when  called  "  inflated," 
but  the  word  souffle  defines  the  class  of  dishes  which  are  in- 
flated, and  is  so  generally  understood  that  it  is  almost  an  Angli- 
cized word. 

The  terms  Souffles,  Pates,  Timbales,  Hors-d'oeuvres,  Entrees, 
etc.,  are  as  distinctive  as  Stews,  Hashes,  Creams,  etc.;  hence 
there  seems  no  other  way  than  to  learn  the  culinary  nomen- 
clature as  one  partakes  of  the  dishes. 

The  author  strongly  urges  the  trial  of  new  dishes,  and  break- 
ing away  from  the  routine  of  habit.  The  preparation  of  so- 
called  fancy  dishes  is  very  simple.  A  little  attention  given  to 
ornamentation  and  garnishing,  making  dishes  attractive  in  ap- 
pearance as  well  as  taste,  will  raise  the  standard  of  cooking 
without  necessarily  increasing  the  expense. 


CONTENTS 


Pabt  I 

PAGE 

dinnbb-glving  and  the  etiquette  of  dinners 1 

Manner  of  Serving  Dinners 10 

Laying  the  Table 13 

Table  Decorations 17 

Courses 24 

The  Home  Dinner 27 

Serving  the  Informal  Dinner 29 

Luncheon 31 

The  Five  o'Clock  Tea 33 

A  Homily  on  Cooking 35 

Cooking  as  a  Pleasure  and  an  Accomplishment 38 

To  Train  a  Green  Cook 40 

Economical  Living 44 

Wastefulness 50 

How  TO  Utilize  what  Some  Cooks  Throw  Away 51 

Emergencies 55 

Things  to  Remember 58 

Care  of  Utensils 61 


Part  n 

CHAPTER 

I        Methods  of  Cooking  Explained 67 

H       Soups 84 

m     Fish 112 

IV  Meats  145 

V  Poultry  and  Game  179 

VI  Vegetables 200 

Farinaceous  Foods  used  as  Vegetables 222 

VII  «J  Macaroni 224 

Cereals 227 

3dli 


XVI 


XX 

XXI 


xiv  CONTENTS 

OHAPTEB  PAQB 

VIII  A  Group  op  Receipts  from  a  New  England  Kitchen  . . .  229 
i  Distinctively  Southern  Dishes 246 

IX  <  Vert  Inexpensive  Dishes 249 

(  Miscellaneous  Receipts 257 

X  Eggs 261 

XI  Sauces 275 

/Entries 292 

XII  <  Terrapin,  Frogs'  Legs 311 

(  Mushrooms 314 

Xin       Aspic  Jelly,  Fancy  Molding,  Supports 321 

XIV  (;haping-Dish  Receipts 329 

XV  Bread  338 

<  Sandwiches  and  Canap^is 364 

I  Cheese  and  Cheese  Dishes 369 

XVII      Salads 374 

XVni     Cold  Desserts 386 

(  Hot  Desserts 421 

^        i  Pudding  Sauces 444 

{  Pies 450 

\  Pupp  Paste 457 

Cake 462 

Icing  and  Decorating  Cakes 483 

XXII       Ice-Creams,  Water-Ices,  Parfaits,  Mousses,  Punches...  488 

XXin     Boiling  Sugar  and  Making  Candies 510 

XXIV  Fruits,  Cooked  and  Fresh 529 

XXV  Compotes,  Preserving  and  Canning,  Pickles 535 

XXVI  Beverages  548 

XXVn    Wines 660 


1- 


THE 
CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


THE  CENTURY  COOK 
BOOK 

Pabt  I 

DINNER-GIVING  AND  THE  ETIQUETTE 
OF  DINNERS 


"  To  feed  were  best  at  home ; 
From  thence,  the  sauce  to  meat  is  ceremony, 
Meeting  were  bare  without  it."  —  Shdkspere 

A  DINNER  party  may  be  considered  as  holding  the 
highest  rank  among  entertainments.  In  no  other  so- 
cial function  is  etiquette  so  strictly  observed.  There 
are  prescribed  rules  for  the  form  of  the  invitation,  the 
manner  of  assigning  each  guest  his  place  at  the  table, 
the  manner  of  serving  the  dinner,  etc. ;  and  when  these 
rules  are  followed  there  need  be  no  embarrassments. 

It  should  always  be  remembered  that  the  social  part 
of  the  entertainment  is  on  a  higher  plane  than  the  gas-  company, 
tronomic  one,  though  the  latter  must  by  no  means 
be  slighted.  A  sentiment  expressed  by  the  wit  who 
said,  "A  fig  for  your  bill  of  fare,  give  me  a  bill  of 
your  company,"  is  generally  felt,  and  a  hostess  should 
bring  together  only  such  people  as  she  believes  will  be 
mutually  agreeable. 


2  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

The  idea,  given  by  Goldsmith  in  his  "  Retaliation," 
of  looking  upon  one's  friends  as  so  many  pleasant 
dishes,  is  offered  as  a  suggestion.    He  says : 

If  our  landlord  supplies  us  with  beef  and  with  fish, 
Let  each  guest  bring  himself,  and  he  brings  the  best  dish : 
Our  Dean  shall  be  venison,  just  fresh  from  the  plains  ; 
Our  Burke  shall  be  tongue,  with  a  garnish  of  brains ; 
Our  Will  shall  be  wild  fowl  of  excellent  flavour, 
And  Dick  with  his  pepper  shall  heighten  the  savour; 
Our  Cumberland's  sweetbread  its  place  shall  obtain, 
And  Douglas  is  pudding,  substantial  and  plain ; 
Our  Garrick  's  a  salad,  for  in  him  we  see 
Oil,  vinegar,  sugar,  and  saltness  agree :  .  .  . 
At  a  dinner  so  various — at  such  a  repast. 
Who  'd  not  be  a  glutton,  and  stick  to  the  lastf 

The  Host        ipijg  hostess  should  give  her  instructions  for  the  de- 
Hostess,     tails  of  the  entertainment  so  explicitly  that  on  the 
arrival  of  the  guests  she  will  have  no  care  other  than 
their  pleasure. 

If  she  is  nervous,  has  wandering  eyes,  or  shows 
constraint,  it  affects  sensibly  the  ease  of  her  guests. 
The  spirit  of  pleasure  is  infectious,  and  upon  the  de- 
meanor of  the  hosts  the  success  of  the  evening  largely 
depends.  Much  tact  may  be  shown  in  placing  the 
right  people  together  at  the  table.  If  one  is  a  great 
talker  let  the  other  be  a  good  listener ;  if  one  is  dog- 
matic let  the  other  be  without  positive  views,  and  so 
on  ;  for  as  every  one  is  happiest  when  appearing  well, 
it  is  wise  to  consider  the  idiosyncrasies  of  the  guests. 

'T  is  a  great  point  in  a  gallery  how  you  bang  your  pictures ; 
and  not  less  in  society  how  you  seat  your  party. 

The  part  of  the  hosts  is  thus  well  defined ;  but  the 
The  Guests,  guests,  too,  have  their  obligations,  and  in  recognition 
of  the  compliment  of  being  included  in  an  entertain- 
ment where  the  number  of  guests  is  Imiited  to  very 
few,  each  one  should  make  exertion  to  be  agreeable, 


DINNEE-GIVTNQ  AND   THE   ETIQUETTE  OP  DINNEES  3 

as  a  dull  dinner  companion  is  a  recognized  misfortune. 
At  a  dinner  there  is  time,  not  given  at  most  other 
forms  of  entertainment,  for  rational  and  sustained 
conversation,  and  this  may  be  turned  to  durance  vile 
if  one  victimizes  by  egotism  or  caprice  the  person 
who  without  power  of  withdrawal  is  assigned  to  his 
or  her  society  for  perhaps  two  hours  or  more.  Also, 
if  one  finds  oneself  neighbor  to  some  person  for 
whom  one  has  a  personal  antipathy,  it  must  not  be 
allowed  to  interfere  with  the  general  pleasure;  and 
should  such  a  situalioii  occur,  there  is  nothing  to  do 
but  to  make  the  best  of  it,  and  conceal  from  the  hos- 
tess the  mistake  she  has  unwittingly  made — 

And  do  as  adversaries  do  in  law, 

Strive  mightily,  but  eat  and  drink  as  friends. 

Under  these  circumstances  the  discovery  may  possi- 
bly be  made  that  an  unfriendly  person  is  more  agree- 
able than  was  supposed,  and  a  pleasauter  relationship 
may  be  established. 

Two  hours  is  the  extreme  limit  of  time  that  should 
be  given  to  a  dinner ;  one  hour  and  a  quarter,  or  a  Tune- 
half,  is  preferable.  Eight  courses  served  quickly,  but 
without  seeming  haste,  require  as  much  time  as  most 
people  can  sit  at  the  table  without  fatigue.  Last  im- 
pressions are  as  enduring  as  first  ones,  so  it  is  impor- 
tant not  to  surfeit,  for 

When  fatigue  enters  into  so-called  pleasure,  failure  begins. 

Judgment  shown  in  combination  of  dishes,  the  per- 
fection of  their  preparation,  careful  serving,  and  taste 
in  adornment,  are  elements  of  refinement  that  far  out- 
weigh quantity  and  ostentation. 

®     ^  *^  ,    .  Tempera- 

The  temperature  and  ventilation  of  the  dining-room       ture. 

should  be  given  careful  attention.  The  best  of  spirits 
and  the  brightest  wit  will  flag  in  an  overheated,  ill- 


4  THE  CENTUE"?  COOK  BOOK 

ventilated  room.  It  is  not  always  easy  to  maintain  a 
fresh  atmosphere  where  as  many  guests  are  seated  as 
the  size  of  the  room  permits,  but  at  least  the  room  can 
be  well  aired  before  the  dinner  is  served.  Windows 
opened  a  very  little  from  both  the  top  and  bottom  in 
an  adjoining  room,with  a  careful  adjustment  of  screens 
to  protect  those  who  are  sensitive  to  drafts,  will  do 
much  to  keep  the  air  fresh,  and  will  have  a  sensible 
effect  upon  the  comfort  and  mental  activity  of  the 
The  company. 
Invitation.  Invitations  are  sometimes  sent  out  a  month  or  three 
weeks  in  advance,  but  ordinarily  two  weeks  is  sufift- 
cient  time  to  secure  the  guests  one  wishes  to  entertain. 
Courtesy  requires  a  dinner  invitation  to  be  answered 
at  once,  certainly  within  twelve  hours,  but  better  in 
less  time.  This  enables  the  hostess  to  fill  the  vacancy 
in  case  the  invitation  is  declined.  Unconventional 
people  are  sometimes  unmindful  of  this  obligation, 
but  as  a  rule  those  who  are  accustomed  to  entertain- 
ing recognize  the  importance  of  a  prompt  reply,  and 
answer  a  dinner  invitation  immediately. 

It  is  well,  when  convenient,  to  send  the  invitation 
as  well  as  the  reply  by  hand,  so  that  there  may  be  no 
imcertainty  of  prompt  delivery ;  to  send  either  of  them 
by  post  is,  however,  permissible. 

The  answer  should  be  definite,  and  where  a  man  and 
his  wife  are  invited,  if  one  of  them  is  unable  to  ac- 
cept, the  invitation  should  be  declined  for  both.  An 
invitation  should  be  precise  in  expression,  therefore 
the  prescribed  form  given  below  should  be  exactly 
followed.  It  does  not  belong  to  the  order  of  social 
notes  ;  it  is  simply  a  formal  invitation,  and  an  accep- 
tance should  be  of  the  same  character.  Any  deviation 
from  the  prescribed  form  is  uncalled  for  and  likely  to 
cause  criticism.  In  declining  the  invitation,  however, 
it  is  considered  more  gracious  to  answer  the  formal 


DINNEE-GIVING   AND    THE   ETIQUETTE    OF   DINNERS  S 

note  informally,  and,  by  stating  the  reason,  show  that 
the  regret  is  not  merely  a  perfunctory  expression. 

Verbal  invitations  or  replies  should  never  be  given 
for  formal  entertainments.  R.  S.  V.  P.  should  not  be 
put  on  a  dinner  invitation.  Every  well-bred  person 
knows  an  answer  is  necessary,  and  it  is  a  reflection 
upon  good  manners  to  assume  that  no  reply  would 
be  given  if  the  request  for  it  were  omitted. 

It  is  important  also  that  the  reply  should  repeat, 
in  the  same  words  as  the  invitation,  the  date  and 
hour  of  the  dinner,  so,  if  any  mistake  has  inadvertently 
been  made,  it  may  be  corrected,  thus  establishing  an 
exact  understanding. 

A  dinner  engagement  is  the  most  exacting  of  any 
social  obligation,  and  no  greater  discourtesy  can  be 
shown  than  to  break  it  except  for  serious  cause. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  James  J.  James 
request  the  pleasure  of 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  SmitWs 
company  at  dinner,  on  Monday,  ^o™  p^ 

December  twenty-third,  at 
eight  o'clock. 
99  West  A  Street, 
Dec.  1st. 
Envelop  addressed  to  Mrs.  John  B.  Smith. 


Mr.  and  Mrs.  John  B.  Smith 
accept  with  pleasure 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jameses 
Mnd  invitation  to  dinner  on 
Monday,  December  twenty-third, 
at  eight  o'clock. 
66  West  B  Street, 
Dec.  1st. 
Envelop  addressed  to  Mrs.  James  J.  James. 


Beply. 


THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  John  B.  Smith 

regret  that  they  are  unable  to  accept 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jameses 

Mnd  invitation  to  dinner  on 

Monday,  December  twenty-thirdf 

at  eight  o'clock. 

66  West  B  Street^ 

Dec.  1st. 

OR, 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  John  B.  Smith 
regret  that  owing  to  a  previous 
engagement  they  are  unable  to  accept 
Mr.  and  Mrs  James's 
Mnd  invitation  to  dinner  on 
Monday,  December  twenty-third, 
at  eight  o'clock. 
66  West  B  Street, 
Dec.  1st. 


Where  an  invitation  is  meant  to  be  informal,  a 
social  form  of  note  with  formal  phraseology  is  often 
sent,  thus : 
My  dear  Mrs.  Smith : 

Will  you  and  Mr.  Smith  dine 
with  us  informally  on  Thursday  evening,  December 
twenty-third,  at  eight  o'clock  f 

Sincerely  yours, 

Mary  James. 
99  West  A  Street, 
Dec.  1st. 


DINNER-GIVING    AND    THE    ETIQUETTE    OF    DINNERS  'i 

This  form  of  invitation  is  sometimes  misleading  to 
strangers,  as  the  word  "  informal "  is  open  to  different 
interpretations. 

These  dinners  are  generally  quite  as  formal  as  the 
others,  and  require  the  same  toilet. 

A  woman's  dinner  dress  should  be  decollete,  and 
for  a  man  evening  dress  is  always  de  rigueur. 

The  butler  wears  a  dress  suit  with  white  tie.    The 
footman,  or  second  man,  wears  the  livery  of  the      dtms. 
family,  or,  in  default  of  that,  a  coat  of  dark  color,  with 
brass  buttons,  and  a  bright-colored  striped  waistcoat. 

The  dining-room  maid  wears  a  plain  black  dress,  a 
white  apron  that  covers  completely  the  front  of  her 
skirt,  a  linen  coUar  and  deep  cuffs,  and  a  small  white 
cap,  with  or  without  strings,  but  no  crown.  Every- 
thing in  a  well-ordered  household  is  supposed  to  be 
clean,  including  the  hands  of  the  domestics,  and  the  use 
of  white  gloves  is  not  permissible.  First-class  butlers 
and  footmen  do  not  wear  mustaches. 

Cruests  are  expected  at  the  hour  mentioned  in  the 
invitation,  and  should  be  as  near  that  time  as  possible.  ArrivaL 
In  large  cities,  where  distances  are  great  and  exact  time 
difficult  to  calculate,  a  little  grace  is  allowed,  but  the  hos- 
tess is  not  expected  to  wait  longer  than  fifteen  minutes 
for  a  tardy  guest.  It  is  considered  a  breach  of  etiquette 
to  be  late,  and  the  assumption  is,  when  this  occurs,  that 
the  delay  is  unavoidable  and  will  be  indefinite,  and  so 
the  other  guests  should  not  be  inconvenienced. 

At  large  dinners  a  gentleman  finds  in  the  dressing- 
room,  or  a  servant  passes  to  him  before  he  enters  the 
drawing-room,  a  tray  holding  small  addressed  envel- 
ops. He  selects  the  one  bearing  his  own  name,  and 
finds  on  an  inclosed  card  the  name  of  the  lady  he  is  to 
take  to  the  table.  The  letter  R  or  L  in  the  corner  of  the 
card  denotes  whether  he  wiU  find  his  place  on  the  right 


8  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

or  left  of  the  table  from  the  entrance.  If  he  does  not 
know  the  lady,  he  should  tell  the  hostess,  so  that  he 
may  be  presented  to  her.  The  hostess  stands  near 
the  door  to  receive  her  guests,  and  such  introductions 
follow  as  can  conveniently  be  made.  If  general  in- 
troductions are  omitted,  guests  are  expected  to  act  as 
though  acquainted,  and  speak  to  whomever  they  may 
be  near.  This  rule  holds  good  for  aU  entertainments 
in  some  countries,  but  Americans  continue  a  reserve 
except  at  dinners,  where  barriers  to  ease  and  pleasure 
must  not  exist.  The  hostess  does  not  knowingly 
bring  together  people  who  object  to  meet  one  another, 
but  in  such  an  event  the  acquaintanceship  need  not 
extend  beyond  the  evening,  and  good  breeding  re- 
quires a  courteous  recognition  of  the  friends  of  the 
hostess  while  under  her  roof. 

The  butler  keeps  count  of  the  arrival  of  expected 
guests,  and  announces  dinner  shortly  after  aU  are  in 
the  drawing-room.  In  case  of  a  tardy  guest  he  waits 
for  the  hostess  to  order  the  dinner  served.  He  then 
An  tm"  enters  the  room,  and,  looking  at  the  host  or  hostess, 
ment.  says,  "  Dinner  is  served,"  or  "  Madam  is  served,"  or 
simply  bows  to  the  hostess. 

The  host  then  offers  his  right  arm  to  the  lady  who 
is  to  sit  at  his  right,  and  leads  the  way  into  the  din- 
ing-room ;  the  other  couples  follow  in  any  order  that 
is  convenient.  The  hostess,  with  the  gentleman  she 
Precedence,  honors  with  the  seat  at  her  right,  are  the  last  to  leave 
the  drawing-room.  If  a  distinguished  man  is  present, 
it  is  to  him  this  courtesy  is  shown.  Except  in  ofiBcial 
and  diplomatic  circles,  there  is  no  other  rule  of  pre- 
cedence. If  the  President  of  the  United  States  or  a 
royal  personage  were  being  entertained,  the  hostess 
with  this  dignitary  would  then  precede  the  others. 

At  each  cover  is  laid  a  card  on  which  is  distinctly 
written  the  name  of  the  person  who  is  to  occupy  that 


DINNER-GIVING    AND    THE    ETIQUETTE    OF    DINNERS  9 

place.  Confusion  is  thus  avoided  in  seating  the  guests. 
It  has  been  a  fashion  to  have  these  cards  artistic  and 
elaborate  in  design,  but  at  present  plain  gilt-edged 
cards  stamped  with  the  family  crest  or  monogram  are 
more  generally  used. 

When  the  dinner  is  finished,  the  gentlemen  return  Departure, 
to  the  drawing-room  with  the  ladies,  and  then  vrith- 
draw  to  the  smoking-room  for  haK  an  hour.  Shortly 
after  their  return  to  the  di'awing-room  the  guests 
take  their  leave.  If  guests  of  honor  are  present,  they 
are  the  first  to  go. 


MANNER  OF  SEEVING  DINNERS 

The  custom  of  serving  dinner  d  la  Russe  (dishes 
passed)  has  supplanted  the  form  known  as  the  Eng- 
lish style,  where  the  joints  are  carved  on  the  table. 
This  is  for  good  reason,  as  the  host  cannot  well  fulfil 
his  social  part  if  he  has  to  do  the  carving ;  therefore, 
unless  on  very  informal  occasions,  when  the  number 
of  servants  may  be  insufficient,  the  carving  is  done  on 
the  side-table,  or  the  garnished  dishes  are  cut  in  the 
kitchen.  The  portions,  whether  carved  or  otherwise, 
are  placed  on  dishes  to  be  passed,  and  should  be  so 
arranged  that  each  guest  may  remove  a  part  easily 
and  without  destroying  the  symmetry  of  the  whole. 
This  need  not  preclude  attractive  garnishing,  but 
such  complicated  constructions  as  are  sometimes  seen, 
which  embarrass  one  to  find  how  to  break  them,  should 
be  avoided. 

Sometimes  a  dish  is  placed  on  the  table  to  be  shown, 
and  then  removed  to  be  served. 

The  dishes  are  presented  on  the  left  side.  Those  of 
the  Dishes,  the  first  course  are  passed  first  to  the  lady  sitting  on 
the  right  of  the  host,  and  then  in  regular  order  to  the 
right  around  the  table.  The  dishes  of  each  following 
course  are  started  at  some  distance  from  the  place 
where  the  preceding  one  was  presented.  In  this  way 
the  same  person  is  not  left  always  to  be  served  last. 

At  least  one  servant  is  needed  for  every  six  persons, 
Wuinber  of  otherwise  the  service  will  be  slow  and  tedious,  and  the 
Servants,  portion  placed  on  one's  plate  becomes  cold  before  the 
accompaniments  of  sauce  or  vegetable  can  be  passed. 

Many  dishes  may  be  garnished  with  the  vegetable 

10 


MANNER  OF  SERVING  DINNERS  11 

or  sauce,  thus  obviating  in  a  measure  this  difficulty. 
For  large  dinners  two  or  more  dishes  should  be  ar- 
ranged to  pass  on  opposite  sides  of  the  table,  so  that 
every  one  may  be  served  at  about  the  same  time. 
Plates,  vegetable,  and  other  large  dishes  are  held  in 
the  hand  of  the  servant.  Small  dishes,  like  hors 
d'oeuvres,  bonbon  dishes,  etc.,  are  passed  on  a  tray. 

When  the  wines  are  served,  the  servant  should 
name  the  wine  offered,  so  that  it  may  be  refused  if  not     "^aea. 
wanted ;  the  glasses  should  not  be  fiUed  entirely  full. 

When  a  plate  is  removed  it  should  be  immediately     Plates, 
replaced  by  another  one  holding  a  fork  or  any  piece  of 
silver  or  cutlery  which  is  needed  for  the  next  course. 

Plates  should  be  removed  with  the  left  and  replaced 
with  the  right  hand. 

Care  should  be  taken  that  plates  for  the  hot  dishes 
are  warm,  but  not  hot,  and  that  for  the  cold  dishes 
they  are  not  lukewarm. 

The  plate  holding  the  shell-fish  is  placed  upon  the 
one  already  on  the  table ;  this  under  plate  is  used  also 
to  hold  the  soup  plate,  but  double  plates  are  not 
again  used  until  the  end  of  the  dinner,  when  the 
dessert  plate  holding  the  finger-bowl  plate  is  put  on. 
In  case  a  hot  sweet  dish  is  served,  the  double  plates, 
being  intended  for  ices,  fruits,  and  bonbons,  are  not 
put  on  until  after  that  course.  Silver  serving-dishes 
are  much  usedj  lacking  these,  all  the  china  used  in 
the  same  course  should  match  when  possible. 

A  different  set  of  plates  may  be  used  with  each 
course.    In  the  matter  of  china  the  greatest  latitude 
of  taste  and  expense  is  possible,  some  china  being      China, 
more  valuable  than  its   weight    in   silver.      When 
handsome  china  is  being  used,  which  demands  great 
care  in  handlmg,  it  is  well  to  have  a  table  in  the     careof 
pantry  reserved  for  its  use,  where  it  can  be  carefully      china 
piled  and  left  until  the  following  morning  to  be 


12  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

washed.  With  daylight  and  ample  time,  it  can  be 
given  the  care  it  might  not  receive  if  washed  after  the 
fatigue  and  late  hours  of  a  long  dinner.  This  need 
not  necessarily  mean  leaving  a  disordered  pantry  for 
the  night,  although  that  would  be  of  less  consequence 
than  the  extra  risk  of  having  valuable  china  nicked 
or  broken.  The  same  care  is  recommended  for  hand- 
some glass. 

Before  the  dessert  is  served,  aU  the  plates,  the  small 
silver,  the  salt-  and  pepper-boxes,  the  hors  d'oeuvres, 

Clearing    ^^^  ^^^^  glasses  as  will  not  be  again  used  are  removed ; 

tie  Table,    the  crumbs  are  then  taken  off,  a  silver  crumb  knife 

and  a  plate  being  used  for  this  purpose.    The  dessert 

and  finger-bowl  plates  are  then  put  on.    Under  the 

finger-bowl  is  placed  a  small  fancy  doily,  and  beside 

it  on  the  same  plate  such  smaU  silver  as  will  be 

needed.     If  peaches,  or  any  fruit  which  will  stain, 

are  to  be  served,  a  fruit  doily  should  also  be  given  at 

this  time  and  laid  beside  the  place.    The  finger-bowl 

should  be  filled  one  third  with  water,  and  have  a  thin 

slice  of  lemon,  a  scented  leaf,  or  a  flower  floating  in  it. 

The  service  should  be    entirely  noiseless,  and  the 

machinery  of  the  household  as  invisible  as  possible. 

_.  There  should  be  no  rattling  of  china  or  silver,  no 

Service,     creaking  boots,  or  heavy  tread,  or  audible   speech 

among  the  servants. 

When  entertaining  one  should  not  attempt  more 

than  one  is  sure  of  being  able  to  attain,  bearing  in 

mind  the  capabilities  of  the  cook  and  the  range,  and 

Orderimr    remembering  that  the   quality  of  the  dishes  rather 

the  Dinner,  than  the  number  of  them  is  what  pleases.  Experi- 
ments should  be  made  at  times  when  failure  is  of  less 
consequence.  In  arranging  the  menu,  each  course 
should  be  in  pleasing  contrast  to  the  preceding  one,  and 
in  the  same  course  only  such  dishes  should  be  served 
as  go  well  together.     Butter  is  not  served  at  dinner. 


LAYING  THE  TABLE 

A  ROUND  or  square  table  five  feet  across  is  a  con- 
venient size  for  ordinary  use,  giving  ample  room  for  The  Table, 
six  people,  and  leaving  space  for  decoration.  Large 
round  tops  are  made  to  fit  over  extension-tables, 
which  will  seat  from  twelve  to  twenty  or  more  peo- 
ple ;  and  when  the  size  of  the  room  wiU  permit,  this 
is  the  pleasantest  form  of  table  for  entertainments, 
and  best  lends  itself  to  decorative  effects,  giving  to 
each  person  a  complete  picture  of  the  table  and  of  the 
company  assembled. 

A  thick  cotton  material,  which  is  made  for  the  pur- 
pose, for  interlining  between  table  and  cloth,  is  the  Tte  Linen, 
first  requisite  in  laying  the  table,  and  should  always 
be  used.  It  protects  the  polished  surface  of  the  table 
from  injury,  gives  a  more  brilliant  whiteness  to  the 
cloth,  and  prevents  any  noise  when  placing  the  china 
and  silver  upon  the  table.  The  linen  should  be  as 
fine  as  the  purse  will  allow.  Handsome  linen  wiU 
give  elegance  to  a  table  where  ornamentation  is  very 
simple.  It  should  be  ironed  without  starch,  or  with 
a  very  little  if  it  is  not  sufficiently  heavy  to  take  polish 
without  it.  It  should  be  folded  perfectly  square,  so 
that  the  lines  will  be  straight,  and  should  be  of  spotless 
and  dazzling  whiteness.  With  this  as  a  basis,  there 
will  be  no  difficulty  in  making  an  attractive  table. 

In  the  way  of  linen,  much  taste  may  be  shown  in 
the  ornamental  pieces  used  in  the  center  of  the 
table.  These  may  be  of  any  shape  or  size  desired, 
from  a  small  square  to  a  long  scarf.    They  may  be  of 

13 


14  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

embroidered  linen,  drawn-work,  lace,  plain  silk  or 
satin  J  but  wash  materials  are  preferable,  and  effects  of 
color,  when  desired,  can  be  obtained  in  the  embroidery 
or  linings.  The  attractiveness  of  these  pieces  depends 
on  their  daintiness.  The  fashion  of  a  center-piece  of 
linen  is,  however,  a  passing  one,  as  they  are  not  at 
present  so  generally  used. 

After  the  interlining  has  been  spread,  the  cloth 
of  laying  should  be  laid  with  great  care,  making  the  center  fold 
the  Table,  run  perfectly  straight  with  the  room,  and  the  cross 
fold  again  exactly  divide  the  table  at  right  angles  to 
the  other  crease.  By  these  straight  lines,  everything 
else  is  gaged.  The  fancy  linen  piece  is  next  laid, 
and  its  center  must  coincide  with  that  of  the  cloth. 
If  the  piece  is  square,  it  sometimes  has  better  effect 
to  place  the  points  on  the  long  lines  of  the  cloth,  giv- 
ing it  a  diamond  shape ;  this,  however,  is  a  matter  of 
fancy.  The  center  ornament  is  then  placed  on  the 
exact  point  where  the  folds  of  the  cloth  cross  in  the 
middle  of  the  table.  The  plates  are  next  put  in  posi- 
tion, attention  being  given  to  the  decoration  on  the 
china,  if  it  be  a  monogram  that  it  is  right  side  up,  if 
flowers  that  they  are  in  natural  position,  etc.  Where 
there  are  an  uneven  number  of  covers  it  is  better  to 
place  the  plates  at  equal  distances  around  the  table, 
without  regard  to  the  place  of  the  hostess  being  oppo- 
site to  that  of  the  host.  In  other  cases,  the  plates  at 
the  head  and  foot  of  the  table,  and  those  on  the  sides, 
should  be  directly  opposite  each  other.  Under  no 
circumstances  must  the  plates  be  omitted.  On  the 
left  of  the  plates  place  the  forks  ;  three  or  four  may 
be  put  on  and  laid  in  the  order  in  which  they  will  be 
used.  Three  knives  (one  of  them  being  a  silver  knife 
for  the  fish  course)  and  the  oyster  fork  are  placed  on 
the  right  of  the  plate ;  the  soup  spoon  may  go  in  front 
of  the  plate  or  with  the  knives  on  the  right ;  the  bowls 


LAYING  THE  TABLE  15 

of  the  forks  and  spoons  should  be  right  side  up,  the 
edges  of  the  knives  turned  toward  the  plate. 

After  the  plates  and  small  silver  and  cutlery  are  jj^aDg^jg. 
in  position,  the  decorating  of  the  table  should  pro-  ration, 
ceed  as  far  as  possible.  The  position  for  everything 
can  be  best  determined  after  the  plates  are  laid. 
The  perishable  articles,  that  cannot  be  put  on  until 
the  last  moment,  can  usually  have  their  position  lo- 
cated by  the  compotiers  or  the  bonbon  dishes  which 
will  hold  them.  Uniformity  is  not  required  in  having 
two  or  four  of  these  dishes  to  match,  but  such  orna- 
mental holders  as  are  used  must  be  placed  in  uniform 
positions,  so  as  to  balance  and  harmonize.  Any  de- 
viation from  this  rule,  or  neglect  of  the  small  details 
in  placing  the  table  furniture,  will  give  the  effect  of 
a  disordered  table. 

The  candlesticks,  or  candelabra,  as  the  case  maybe, 
should  be  so  placed  as  not  to  obstruct  the  views  across  lights. 
the  table.  This  may  be  determined  by  two  persons 
taking  seats  on  opposite  sides  of  the  table,  viewing 
each  other  from  different  places,  and  moving  the  can- 
delabra until  the  right  position  is  found,  which  usually 
will  not  be  more  than  an  inch  or  two  either  way.  It 
is  well  to  give  attention  to  this  matter,  as  comfort  is 
much  disturbed  and  conversation  interrupted  from 
shutting  out  by  this  kind  of  screen  the  different  per- 
sons at  the  table.  Before  being  placed  on  the  table 
candles  should  be  fitted  firmly  and  straight  in  their 
sockets,  be  lighted  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  the 
wicks  should  be  cut  and  the  shades  fitted  squarely 
upon  the  holders.  This  will  prevent  smoking,  drip- 
ping and  other  annoyances  that  may  occur  if  it  is  not 
done.  Shade-holders  that  fit  the  top  of  the  candle 
are  very  objectionable  and  dangerous,  but  those  that 
clasp  the  candle  below  the  heated  part  give  little 
trouble. 


%Q  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Salt-  and  pepper-boxes  are  placed  at  the  comers  of 
the  table,  or  within  easy  reach  of  every  two  people 
if  more  than  four  are  used.  If  carafes  are  used  the 
same  rule  is  observed.  After  the  decoration  of  the 
table  is  completed  as  far  as  possible,  the  glasses  are 
put  on.  There  is  danger  of  their  being  broken  if  put 
on  before.  They  are  placed  in  uniform  groups  at  the 
right  of  the  plates :  the  water  glass  nearest  the  plate, 
and  the  wine-glass  to  be  first  used  nearest  the  edge 
of  the  table.  Port  and  Madeira  glasses  are  not  put 
on  until  the  time  for  serving  those  wines,  which  is  at 
the  end  of  the  dinner. 

The  napkin,  folded  in  triangular  shape,  the  embroi- 
dered monogram  on  top,  is  laid  on  the  plate,  and  a 
piece  of  bread  cut  two  inches  long  and  one  and  a  half 
inches  thick,  or  more  generally  a  dinner  roll,  is  laid 
in  the  fold,  but  left  in  full  sight,  so  that  it  will  not  be 
shaken  on  to  the  floor  when  the  napkin  is  lifted. 

Everything  that  will  be  needed  in  serving  the  din- 
ner should  be  convenient  to  hand.  The  plates  to  be 
warmed  should  be  in  the  hot  closet;  those  for  the 
cold  courses,  the  fi^nger-bowls,  extra  small  silver  and 
ipj^g  cutlery,  extra  rolls  and  cracked  ice,  should  be  on  the 
sideijoard.  sideboard,  so  that  there  will  be  no  delay  in  getting 
them  when  needed. 

Foot-stools  placed  under  the  table  for  the  ladies 
add  much  to  their  comfort. 


@  0)  (0)  Q  m 


DIAGEAJtt  OF  TABLE. 

A.  Plates. 

B.  Plant,  Flowers,  Friiit,  Lamp,  or  ornamental  piece  of  silver. 

C.  Compotiers,  holding  cakes,  fruit,  or  flowers. 

D.  Candlesticks  or  Candelabra. 

E.  Salt  and  Pepper  Boxes. 

F.  Water  and  Wine  Glasses. 

G.  Bonbons,  or  Hors  d'CEuvres,  or  Carafes. 
H.  Bonbons,  or  Hors  d'OSuvres. 


DETAIL  OF  ONE  COVER. 


I 


TABLE  DECORATION 

There  is  wide  range  for  individual  taste  and  artis- 
tic arrangement  in  table  decoration,  which  is  limited 
only  by  the  resources  at  one's  command. 

Pleasing  effects  of  color  are  perhaps  the  first  con- 
sideration. Of  late  it  has  been  a  fashion  to  have  one 
prevailing  color.  In  many  cases  this  is  very  suitable 
as  well  as  complimentary  to  the  guests  entertained. 
For  instance,  a  white  dinner  to  a  bride,  pink  to  young 
people,  red  to  a  Harvard  company,  or  yeUow  to  those 
with  Princeton  affiliations. 

The  scheme  of  color  is  often  carried  through  the 
menu  as  far  as  possible ;  the  dishes  served  correspond- 
ing in  color  to  the  table  decorations.  Where  this  is 
done  the  colors  should  be  light  and  delicate.  Dark 
shades  are  not  pleasing,  and  suggest  the  name  "  painted 
foods,"  which  has  been  scornfully  given  to  them. 

Of  all  colors  green  is  the  easiest  to  carry  out,  and 
perhaps  the  most  pleasing.  The  many  shades  of 
green  give  variety  and  contrasts.  Ferns  make  a 
light  and  dainty  centerpiece,  and  rival  flowers  in 
beauty.  For  the  menu  spinach  gives  a  soup,  vege- 
table, and  coloring  for  sauces.  Green  salads  are  nu- 
merous. Angelica  makes  a  decoration  for  desserts. 
Pistachio  nuts  give  flavor  and  color  to  ice-cream, 
icings,  and  bonbons.  A  very  beautiful  and  elaborate 
dinner  on  this  scheme  is  described  below,  which  was 
called  in  the  invitation  "Al  Fresco,"  and  in  its  de- 
sigri  and  execution  well  simulated  an  out-door  enter- 
tainment.   Oreen  is  a  soft,  reposeful  color  j  red,  pink, 

2  17 


18  THE  CENTUBY  COOK  BOOK 

and  yellow  are  gayer,  and  give  a  more  festive  aspect. 
Yellow  is  sunny  in  effect,  and  for  a  yellow  dinner  the 
color  scheme  may  be  obtained  with  yellow  flowers, 
oranges,  silver-gilt  eompotiers,  gilded  china,  and  with 
light  diffused  through  yellow  shades.  For  the  culi- 
nary part  the  yolks  of  eggs  render  important  service 
for  coloring,  covering,  and  garnishing,  and  oranges 
furnish  many  delicious  dishes. 

White  dinners  are  also  easy  to  arrange  with  white 
flowers,  silver,  a  profusion  of  cut-glass,  lace  shades, 
white  grapes,  •  spun  sugar,  whipped  cream,  white 
sauces,  celery,  whites  of  eggs,  white  meats,  etc. 

A  white  dinner  is  likely  to  be  too  severe,  however, 
unless  carefully  managed.  Delicate  ferns  can  be 
mixed  with  white  flowers  without  changing  the  effect, 
and  a  warm  glow  may  be  thrown  on  the  table  from  a 
center  light  in  the  chandelier,  screened  with  thin  pink 
or  yellow  silk,  and  raised  high,  so  as  not  to  appear  as 
a  part  of  the  decoration.  The  most  beautiful  pictures 
of  snow  scenes  are  not  a  dead  white,  but  reflect  the 
color  of  the  sunset  or  atmosphere. 

Fruits  and  flowers  typical  of  the  season  are  in  good 
taste,  and  usually  more  pleasing  than  hot-house  prod- 
ucts. In  the  spring,  tulips,  daffodils,  lilies  of  the  val- 
ley, or  any  wild  flowers.  Goldenrod,  chrysanthemums, 
and  asters  in  their  times.  Autumn  leaves  and  berries 
later,  holly  and  mistletoe  at  Christmas,  and  lilies  at 
Easter,  while  in  the  summer  the  flelds  and  lanes 
afford  a  wealth  of  material.  At  other  times,  and 
where  the  purse  does  not  permit  indulgence  in  roses 
and  forced  flowers,  the  resources  lie  in  potted  plants 
and  fruits.  Any  plant  not  too  large,  which  looks  fresh 
and  healthy,  will  make  a  pleasing  centerpiece.  The 
crotons  and  dracaenas  give  beautiful  colors.  A  dish  of 
growing  ferns  makes  an  attractive,  satisfactory  and 
enduring  center  ornament.    With  care  the  ferns  will 


TABLE  DECORATION  19 

last  a  long  time,  and  at  small  expense  can  be  renewed. 
Double  silver-plated  boxes,  both  square  and  oval,  are 
made  for  this  use. 

Fruits  are  always  pleasing  and  give  good  color 
effects. 

The  success  of  any  decoration  depends  largely  upon 
the  proper  lighting  of  the  table ;  lacking  this,  beauti- 
ful arrangements  may  appear  commonplace  or  wholly 
lose  their  effect. 

The  decorated-dinner  table  should  be  the  especial 
picture  of  the  room,  the  conspicuous  object  of  in- 
terest and  beauty  for  the  time;  therefore  the  light 
should  be  centered  upon  it  and  the  rest  of  the  room 
form  but  the  shadowy  background.  The  pleasantest 
light  is  from  shaded  single  candles,  placed  at  intervals 
around  the  table,  and  a  more  brilliant  light  thrown  on 
the  center  of  the  table  from  the  shaded  drop-light  of 
a  chandelier,  or  from  large  candelabra  holding  groups 
of  candles. 

Small  lamps  which  fit  candlesticks  are  much  used, 
and  when  there  are  open  windows  and  drafts  they 
give  much  less  trouble  than  candles.  Effects  of  color 
are  largely  obtained  from  the  use  of  shades.  These 
vary  in  size  and  shape  to  suit  the  fancy  or  fashion  of 
the  moment,  and  are  made  of  silk,  lace,  or  paper ;  for 
the  latter,  crape  papers  are  much  used.  Shades  re- 
cently brought  from  Paris  were  of  translucent  paper 
painted  by  hand  to  imitate  china.  Making  shades  is 
pleasant  fancy  work,  and  the  materials  are  so  inex- 
pensive that  one  can  easily  indulge  in  a  variety  of 
them.  With  a  centerpiece  of  polished  red  apples  and 
candles  with  red  shades,  or  a  potted  plant  and  green 
shades,  quite  a  definite  and  pleasing  character  may  be 
given  to  a  simple  dinner.  High  ornaments  should  be 
avoided  except  they  be  candelabra  or  lamps  which  do 
not  obstruct  the  view  across  the  table.     It  is  very 


20  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

annoying  to  be  forced  to  look  around  ornaments  when 
trying  to  talk  to  a  person  seated  opposite  at  table ; 
such  a  screen  effectually  debars  general  conversation. 
On  large  or  long  tables,  large  ornamental  pieces 
should  be  used.  Those  appropriate  to  a  small  table 
often  appear  scanty  and  insufficient  on  a  large  one. 
Masses  of  one  color  are  more  effective  than  mixtures, 
and  a  display  of  abundance  may  be  made  on  large 
tables  while  on  small  ones  daintiness  is  more  pleasing. 

Confectioner's  pieces  are  again  being  used  for  dinner 
decorations.  Baskets  and  horns  of  plenty  made  of 
nougat  or  pulled  sugar,  holding  glac6  fruits,  and 
forms  made  of  spun  sugar  are  in  good  taste,  but  imi- 
tations of  art  objects  and  high  pyramids,  such  as  are 
used  on  supper  tables,  should  be  excluded. 

A  pleasing  decoration  for  a  hot  day  maybe  made  of 
a  block  of  ice  set  in  a  pan  deep  enough  to  hold  the 
drippings,  but  placed  on  something  to  raise  it  above 
the  sides  of  the  pan.  The  pan  should  be  concealed 
with  moss  and  ferns,  or  flowers,  arranged  around  it 
loosely  so  as  to  partly  conceal  the  ice  also.  A  hole 
cut  through  the  center  of  the  block  of  ice,  and  a  flat 
candle,  such  as  are  used  in  night  lamps,  placed  within 
it,  gives  a  brilliant  and  lovely  effect.  The  block  of  ice 
should  be  cut  square  and  weigh  at  least  ten  pounds. 
This  decoration  is  easily  managed  in  the  country, 
where  ferns  are  readily  obtainable. 

A  pan  filled  with  floating  water-lilies,  together  with 
their  buds  and  leaves,  the  pan  being  concealed  in  a  bed 
of  moss  and  ferns,  makes  also  a  pretty  decoration  for 
a  luncheon  table.  These  flowers  close  at  night,  and  so 
are  only  suitable  for  daylight  service.  A  table  may 
be  made  beautiful  by  entirely  covering  it  with  a  mass 
of  the  same  kind  of  flowers,  leaving  only  enough  space 
around  the  edge  to  hold  the  plates  and  glasses.  The 
flowers  may  or  may  not  be  raised  in  the  center  of  the 


TABLE  DECORATION  21 

table,  or  may  in  any  way  simulate  a  garden-bed.  When 
daisies  are  used  they  should  be  plentifully  mixed  with 
grasses  as  they  are  in  the  field.  Care  must  be  used 
not  to  make  the  decoration  high,  or  the  effect  will  be 
lost;  and  to  avoid  this  the  stems  of  the  flowers,  cut 
the  desired  length,  can  be  stuck  into  wet  sand  or  moss, 
held  in  flat  tins.  This  will  hold  them  firmly  in  place, 
as  well  as  keep  them  fresh.  An  English  fashion  is  to 
have  a  piece  of  silver  ornament  the  table,  without  ac- 
cessories of  fruits  or  flowers.  This  severe  but  elegant 
simplicity  is  perhaps  a  reaction  from  the  overloading 
of  tables  which  has  long  prevailed. 

A  pink  dinner  given  in  Washington  was  arranged 
as  follows:  The  table  was  round  and  large  enough 
to  seat  eighteen  persons.  A  covering  of  thin  ivory- 
colored  India  silk  over  pink  was  cut  round  to  fit  the 
table,  and  a  frill  of  lace  ten  inches  deep  fell  over  a 
ruf9.e  of  pink  silk  on  the  edge.  A  large  square  of  silk 
gauze  embroidered  in  pink  covered  the  center  of  the 
table.  A  mound  of  maiden-hair  ferns  formed  the  cen- 
terpiece. Around  this  were  placed  pink  candles  in 
Venetian-glass  candlesticks  and  shaded  with  full  frills 
of  lace  over  pink.  The  bonbon  dishes  and  all  the 
glasses  were  of  Venetian  and  Bohemian  glass.  Four 
ornamental  candy  pieces  were  used :  two  were  garden 
hats  holding  glazed  cherries,  and  a  pink  ribbon  tied 
around  each  hat  held  a  large  bunch  of  pink  roses. 
The  other  two  were  baskets,  and  held  frosted  grapes 
which  were  half  hidden  under  spun  sugar.  Orna- 
mental silver  was  omitted,  as  being  out  of  harmony 
with  the  other  decorations. 

A  dinner  unique  in  its  character  was  given  a  few 
years  ago  by  Lord  Dufferin,  the  English  ambassador 
to  France.  The  centerpiece  was  flowers,  and  can- 
delabra lighted  the  table ;  but  in  place  of  the  dessert 
dishes  which  ordinarily  do  ornamental  service  were 


23  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

choice  bits  of  bric-^brac  collected  by  the  ambassador 
in  various  parts  of  the  world.  The  cui-ios  served  as 
an  interesting  novelty,  and  became  the  subject  of  con- 
versation. A  dinner  given  in  Jamaica  is  described, 
where  orchids  in  profusion  were  suspended  over  the 
table,  some  on  climbing  vines,  and  others,  of  such  deli- 
cate form  and  texture  as  made  it  seem  not  unnatural, 
appeared  as  though  floating  in  the  air. 

The  "  Al  Fresco "  dinner  referred  to  above  was  in 
imitation  of  a  woodland  scene.  It  was  served  in  a 
dining-room  the  walls  of  which  were  hung  with  tapes- 
tries. The  ceiling  decoration  was  blue  sky  with  white 
clouds.  A  profusion  of  palms,  bay-trees,  and  rubber- 
plants  were  placed  about  the  room  and  screened  the 
side-boards.  The  dining-table  was  a  mass  of  verdure. 
It  was  round,  seating  eighteen  persons.  The  whole 
center  of  the  table  was  depressed  eight  inches,  leaving 
an  outside  rim  fourteen  inches  wide  for  the  plates  and 
glasses.  The  center  space  was  filled  with  growing 
plants,  the  top  of  the  pots  being  on  a  level  with  the 
outside  rim.  The  pots  were  concealed  by  mosses  and 
loose  ferns  making  a  solid  mass  of  green.  Four  tall 
slender  plants  rose  from  the  center,  the  rest  was  of 
ferns  and  lycopodium  with  here  and  there  a  few  prim- 
roses. Green  candles  with  fluffy  green  shades  in  glass 
candlesticks  were  so  distributed  as  to  give  sufBcient 
light.  The  space  left  for  the  dinner  service  was  cov- 
ered with  light-green  India  silk  over  canton  flannel. 
On  the  back  of  the  menu  cards  were  water-color 
sketches  of  forest  scenes.  The  menu  was  largely  com- 
posed of  products  of  the  forest.  The  aspect  of  this 
dinner  was  really  sylvan,  and  the  idea  so  weU  carried 
out  that  the  elaboration  of  it  was  artistically  hidden. 
From  the  time  of  Lucullus,  dinner-givers  have  been 
striving  for  novelties,  but  as  a  rule  any  radical  de- 
parture from  conventional  forms  is  a  failure. 


TABLE  DECORATION  23 

MENU  OF  THE  «AL  FRESCO"  DINNEE 
Soup 
Cream  of  Celery  (colored  green). 

Fish 
Brook  Trout,  Butter  Sauce. 

Entree 

Muslirooms  on  Crusts. 

Boast 

Saddle  of  Venison.  Wild  plum  sauce.  Saratoga 
potatoes.    Green  peas  served  in  fontage  cups. 

Salpicon  of  Fruits  an  Rhum. 
Oame  and  Salad 

Quails  in  nests  of  Puree  of  Chestnuts.  English 
Walnuts  and  Celery  mixed  with  green  Mayonnaise  in 
cups  of  molded  tomato  jelly. 

Cheese 

Small  balls  of  Cream-cheese,  colored  green  to  imi- 
tate bird's  eggs,  in  nests  of  shredded  Lettuce. 

Hot  Entremet 
Individual  Nut  Puddings  (burning). 

Dessert 

Pistache  Ice  Cream  Pralin^e,  molded  in  a  ring,  the 
center  filled  with  whipped  cream.  White  cakes  with 
green  icing.    Fruits.    Coffee. 


COURSES 

The  order  of  'the  dinner  service  is  soup,  fish,  flesh, 
fowl.  These  may  be  supplemented  to  any  extent  with 
entremets  and  entrees.  Mets  are  the  principal  dishes. 
Entremets,  the  dishes  served  between  the  mets.  En- 
tries, dishes  which  are  served  between  any  of  the 
courses. 

Course.  ^-  Course.  Canapes  of  caviare,  small  bits  of  anchovy 
toast,  or  in  their  season  muskmelons,  are  sometimes 
served  as  the  first  course,  but  ordinarily  oysters  or 
clams  on  the  half  shell  is  the  first  dish  presented.  The 
smallest-sized  shell-fish  are  preferable  to  the  large  ones. 
One  half  dozen  are  served  on  each  plate  and  placed 
symmetrically  on  or  around  a  bed  of  cracked  ice;  a 
quarter  of  a  lemon  cut  lengthwise  is  placed  in  the  cen- 
ter. Cayenne  pepper  and  grated  horse-radish  are  passed 
with  this  course,  also  very  thin  slices  of  brown  bread 
buttered  and  folded  together,  then  cut  into  small 
squares  or  triangular-shaped  pieces.  The  plates  hold- 
ing the  shell-fish  may  be  placed  on  the  table  before 
dinner  is  announced ;  but  as  there  is  no  place  to  con- 
veniently lay  the  folded  napkin  except  on  the  plate, 
it  is  as  well  not  to  serve  the  mollusks  until  the  guests 

Second      are  seated. 

Soup. '  II'  Course :  Soup.  It  is  better  to  serve  a  clear  soup 
when  the  dinner  is  to  be  of  many  courses,  as  heavy 
soups  are  too  hearty.  The  choice  of  two  kinds  of 
soup  may  be  offered.  Grated  Parmesan  cheese  may 
be  passed  with  clear  soups,  dice  of  fried  bread  with 

cream  soups,  and  toasted  cracker  biscuits  with  any 

u 


COURSES 


26 


kind  of  soup.  One  ladleful  of  soup  is  sufficient  for 
each  person,  and  a  second  portion  is  not  offered.  An 
anecdote  is  told  of  a  punctilious  person  who,  being 
asked  if  he  would  be  helped  again  to  soup,  answered, 
^'  Thanks,  not  to-day." 

Hors  d'oeuvres,  which  are  radishes,  celery,  olives, 
etc.,  are  passed  after  the  soup.  Salted  almonds  are 
taken  at  any  time  through  the  dinner, 

III.  Course :  Fish.  Fish,  if  boiled  or  fried,  is  served 
upon  a  napkin.  If  baked  no  napkin  is  used,  and  a  lit- 
tle sauce  is  spread  on  the  dish.  Boiled  potatoes  are 
served  with  boiled  fish,  and  are  more  attractive  when 
cut  with  a  potato-scoop  into  small  balls.  Cucumbers 
dressed  with  oil  and  vinegar  are  also  served  with  fish. 

IV.  Course:  Entries.  Entries  can  be  served  between 
any  of  the  courses,  or  they  may  be  omitted  altogether ; 
but  a  variety  of  attractive  dishes  come  under  this  head, 
and  usually  one  is  served  after  the  fish. 

V.  Course :  Vegetables.  A  vegetable,  such  as  aspara- 
gus, artichokes,  cauliflower,  is  served  at  this  time,  al- 
though the  French  reserve  the  vegetable  until  after 
the  joint.  Only  one  vegetable  besides  potato  is  per- 
mitted with  a  meat  course,  and  if  more  are  wanted 
they  are  served  as  a  separate  course. 

VI.  Course.  The  joint  with  one  green  vegetable  and 
potato. 

VII.  Course.  Frozen  punch,  when  served,  comes  be- 
tween the  meat  and  game  courses.  It  is  not  passed, 
but  a  glassful  standing  on  a  plate,  with  a  coffee  spoon 
beside  it,  is  placed  before  each  person. 

If  preferred,  a  cheese  omelet  or  souffle  may  be  used 
instead  of  punch  for  this  course. 

VIII.  Course :  Game  and  Salad,  or  Poultry  and  Salad. 
Game  is  usually  not  passed,  but  the  portions  are  laid 
on  the  individual  plates  by  the  butler.  This  is  done  in 
order  to  serve  it  as  hot  as  possible.  A  small  cold  plate 


Third 

Course; 

rish. 


Fourth 
Course : 
Entries. 


Fifth 

Course: 

Vegetables. 


Sixth 
Course. 

Seventh 
Course. 


Eighth 
Course. 


26 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


Ninth 
Course. 

Tenth 
Course. 


Eleventh 
Course. 

Twelfth 
Course. 


is  sometimes  given  for  the  salad ;  crescent-shaped  plates 
are  made  for  this  use.  With  ducks,  celery  and  small 
squares  of  fried  hominy  are  served.  When  game  or 
poultry  is  not  used,  cheese  may  be  served  with  the 
salad,  or  cheese-straws  instead  of  cheese.  When  salad 
is  served  with  game  or  poultry,  cheese  and  crackers 
may  be  served  immediately  afterward  as  a  separate 
course,  or  they  may  be  passed  after  the  dessert. 

IX.  Course.  Sweet  puddings,  souffles.  Bavarian 
cream,  etc. 

X.  Course.  Ice-cream  or  any  frozen  dessert.  Cakes 
and  brandied  peaches,  preserved  ginger,  or  wine-jellies 
may  be  passed  with  ice-cream. 

XI.  Course.   Fruit,  fresh  or  glac6,  and  bonbons. 

XII.  Course.   Coffee,  liqueurs. 

Of  the  courses  given  above,  the  first,  fourth,  fifth, 
and  seventh,  and  a  choice  of  either  the  ninth  or  tenth, 
may  all,  or  any  one  of  them,  be  omitted. 

Black  coffee  in  small  cups  is  passed  on  a  tray,  with 
cream  and  sugar,  in  the  drawing-  and  smoking-rooms 
after  the  guests  have  left  the  table. 

ApoUinaris  or  other  sparkling  water  is  passed  later, 
and  is  usually  welcomed. 


THE  HOME  DINNER 

At  the  every-day  or  family  dinner  there  will  nat- 
urally be  less  elaboration  in  the  decoration  of  the 
table,  and  fewer  courses,  than  when  the  dinner  is  an 
occasion  of  entertainment,  but  so  far  as  the  appoint- 
ments reach  they  should  be  observed  with  the  same 
precision  and  care.  The  dinner  has  always  something 
of  a  ceremonious  character,  being  the  time  when  the 
family  all  meet  with  the  leisure  to  enjoy  one  another's 
society  after  the  labors  of  the  day  are  done.  It  is 
weU,  therefore,  to  attend  to  the  few  material  details 
which  aid  in  making  the  occasion  an  agreeable  one. 
Refinements  are  more  clearly  shown  at  table  than 
elsewhere,  and  the  influences  of  decorum  at  dinner 
are  more  subtle  than  are  always  recognized.  Let 
the  linen  be  as  spotless  and  white,  the  silver  and 
glass  as  polished,  and  the  dishes,  however  few,  be 
as  carefully  prepared  as  though  guests  were  present. 
The  simplest  dinner  so  ordered  will  give  pleasure  and 
satisfaction.  When  attention  to  details  is  practised 
every  day,  company  will  cause  no  agitation  in  the 
household.  The  refinements  of  the  table  are  within 
the  means  of  the  humblest.  A  word  may  also  be  said 
for  manners  at  the  home  table.  The  habit  of  fault- 
finding, commenting  upon  the  dishes  and  wines,  cor- 
recting the  mistakes  of  servants  while  at  the  table, 
making  apologies,  etc.,  is  reprehensible,  inefficacious 
and  vulgar,  and  not  only  interrupts  conversation, 
but  spoils  the  pleasure  of  the  dinner  hour.  It  is 
always  difficult,  and  often  impossible,  to  improve  a 

27 


28  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

dish  after  it  is  served ;  therefore,  it  is  better  to  accept 
it  without  remark.  If  the  housekeeper,  who  is  always 
the  first  to  observ^e  faults  in  the  service,  can  conceal 
her  discomfiture,  it  is  but  right  for  the  others  to  be 
considerate.  Faults  often  pass  unnoticed  if  attention 
is  not  called  to  them.  Dr.  Johnson,  it  is  said,  always 
complained  of  his  dinners,  but  never  omitted  to  say 
grace.  Upon  one  such  occasion  his  wife  interrupted 
him,  saying,  "  Nay,  hold,  Mr.  Johnson !  Do  not  make 
a  farce  of  thanking  God  for  a  dinner  which  in  a  few 
minutes  you  will  pronounce  uneatable." 

The  home  table,  with  its  every-day  appointments, 
causing  one  to  blush  in  the  event  of  a  friend's  un- 
expected arrival,  is  not  to  be  excused  in  this  day  of 
advanced  women  in  the  nineteenth  century,  when 
higher  education  has  at  least  taught  them  to  regard 
their  domestic  duties  in  the  light  of  a  science  and  an 
art. 

There  are  many  simple  dishes  that  can  be  quickly 
prepared  which  will  give  the  dinner  a  little  more  com- 
plimentary character,  and  supply  the  little  extra  that 
may  be  needed  when  more  are  present  than  were  ori- 
ginally provided  for.  A  beefsteak  can  be  virtually 
enlarged  by  serving  with  it  a  mushroom  sauce,  for  the 
mushrooms,  having  the  same  elements  of  nutrition  as 
the  meat,  permit  the  latter  to  be  served  in  smaller 
portions.  A  simple  entree,  such  as  a  dish  of  macaroni, 
a  scallop  dish,  a  mince,  with  good  sauce  (which  is 
easily  made  where  the  stock  pot  is  ever  ready),  a 
cheese  omelet,  a  vegetable  salad,  etc.,  etc.,  are  sug- 
gested as  a  few  of  the  dishes,  which  are  called  by  the 
French  plats  WamitU,  and  should  enable  any  woman 
to  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  entertaining  unexpected 
guests  in  a  hospitable  manner. 


SEEVma  THE  INFOEMAL  DINNER 

In  laying  the  table  for  an  informal  dinner,  where 
the  carving  is  to  be  done  on  the  table,  a  napkin  to 
protect  the  cloth  is  spread  at  the  carver's  place.  Very 
pretty  fancy  pieces  are  made  for  this  use,  but  an  ordi- 
nary dinner  napkin  will  do.  This  is  not  removed  until 
the  table  is  cleared  for  the  dessert.  When  the  carving 
is  done  on  the  table,  the  soup  and  dessert  are  usually 
served  by  the  lady  of  the  house,  and  the  salad  is  also 
dressed  on  the  table,  and  then  passed.  So  far  as  the 
service  will  allow,  however,  it  is  pleasanter  to  have 
everything  passed  that  does  not  need  cutting. 

The  vegetable  dishes  should  never  be  placed  on  the 
table.  When  the  joint  is  put  on  the  table,  warm  plates 
in  a  pile  are  set  at  the  left  of,  or  before  the  carver,  and 
when  a  portion  is  served,  the  plate  is  lifted  by  the  serv- 
ant and  placed  before  the  person  for  whom  it  is  in- 
tended, without  the  use  of  a  tray.  The  plates  placed  on 
the  table  when  it  is  laid  are  used  for  holding  the  soup 
plates,  and  are  not  removed  until  the  ones  holding  the 
portions  of  the  next  course  are  exchanged  for  them ;  if 
the  succeeding  course  is  to  be  passed,  warm  or  cold 
plates,  as  the  course  requires,  are  in  turn  exchanged 
for  them ;  but  if  the  course  is  to  be  served  from  the 
table,  the  places  are  meanwhile  left  without  covers. 
There  should  always  be  a  plate  before  each  person 
except  in  this  instance,  and  when  the  table  is  cleared 
for  dessert.  Sharpening  the  carving-knife  is  a  trial 
to  the  nerves  of  many,  and  this  infliction  can  be  easily 
avoided  by  having  it  done  before  dinner  is  announced. 

29 


30  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Many  good  carvers,  however,  seem  to  delight  in  this 
preliminary  operation  and  are  unconscious  of  com- 
mitting an  act  of  impoliteness.  The  attractiveness  of 
a  dish  may  be  wholly  lost  by  unskilful  carving,  and 
the  appetite  may  be  destroyed  by  an  overloaded  plate. 
Where  but  one  substantial  dish  is  served,  it  is  per- 
missible to  be  helped  a  second  time.  The  dish  can 
be  removed  to  the  side-table,  and  the  second  por- 
tions helped  by  the  servant,  if  the  carver  does  not 
care  to  be  interrupted  in  his  own  dinner  after  he  has 
performed  the  office  of  cutting  the  joint. 

The  sense  of  sight  should  always  be  considered, 
even  though  it  cost  the  trouble  of  replenishing  a  dish. 
No  more  than  can  be  used  on  one  plate  is  served  at  the 
same  time  at  any  well  appointed  table.  One  vegetable 
only,  besides  potatoes,  is  served  with  the  roast ;  if  more 
are  used,  they  are  served  as  courses  separately. 


LUNCHEON 

The  luncheon  service  does  not  differ  materially 
from  that  of  dinner.  Lighter  dishes  are  usually 
served,  entrees  taking  the  place  of  joints  and  roasts, 
and  the  soup  or  bouillon  is  served  in  cups  instead  of 
soup  plates.  Grape  fruit,  or  a  fruit  salad,  is  often  an 
acceptable  first  course. 

When  the  table  has  a  handsome  and  polished  sur- 
face the  cloth  may  be  left  off  if  desired  and  a  fancy 
square  take  its  place.  In  this  case  small  squares  may 
also  be  used  under  the  plates  to  protect  the  table  and 
in  such  other  places  as  needed.  Drawn-work  linen 
squares  over  mahogany  make  an  attractive  luncheon 
table. 

When  a  large  number  of  guests  are  being  enter- 
tained at  luncheon,  small  tables  placed  in  the  different 
rooms  (and  on  the  piazzas,  if  in  the  country)  are  often 
used,  and  these  do  not  admit  of  more  than  the  slight 
decoration  of  a  few  flowers.  Luncheons  of  this  kind 
are  usually  of  an  informal  character  and  secondary  to 
some  entertainment  which  has  preceded  them.  A  few 
simple  menus  for  luncheons  are  given  below. 

MENUS  FOR  LUNCHEON 

No.  1.  No.  2. 

Grape  Fruit.  Melon. 

Bouillon,  Clams  on  Half -shell. 

Oyster  Patties.  Cold  Salmon,  Sauce  Tartare. 

Chops  and  Peas.  Filets    Mignons,   Sauce    Bear- 
Quail,  Lettuce  Salad.  naise. 

Ice-Cream.  Omelet  Soufa.6. 

Cake.  Cheese. 

Tea.  Coffee. 

31 


32 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


No.  8. 

Grape  Fruit. 
Bouiilon. 
Shad  Boe. 

<  Broiled  Chicken. 
\  Green  Peas. 
Bossian  Salad. 

<  Ice-Cream  and  Jelly. 
\  Angel  Cake. 

Tea. 

Ko.S. 

Chicken  Consomm6. 
Lobster  Chops. 
Mushrooms  on  Toast. 
Sweetbreads  and  Peas. 
Frozen  Punch. 
Quails  on  Toast. 

P&t6  de  Foies-Gras 

en  BeUevue. 

Lettuce. 
Charlotte  Busse. 

No.  7. 
Salpicon  of  Fruit. 
Cream  of  Clams. 
Salmon  Cutlets,  Cucumbers. 
Curried  Eggs. 
Chicken  k  la  Poulette. 
Asparagus,  Sauce  Hollandaise. 
Fruit  Tart. 
Chocolate  Pralin6e 


Nat 

Bouillon. 

Lobster  a  la  Newbui^. 

Eggs  Villeroi. 

Sweetbreads  and  Peas. 

French  Chops,  Potato  Straws, 

Bussian  Salad  of  Chicken  As- 
pic, Celery  and  Walnuts 
(see  receipt). 

Plum-Pudding  GIao6. 

Coffee. 

No.  6. 

Clams. 

Eggs  h  la  Beine. 

{ Planked  Shad. 

( Cucumbers. 

i  Broiled  Squabs. 

\  Vegetable  Salad. 
Ice-Cream. 
Cheese. 
Fruit. 

No.  8. 
Little  Neck  Clams. 
Bouillon. 
Vol-au-Vent. 
Broiled  Chicken,  Peas. 
Mushrooms. 
Lobster  Salad. 
Gslteau  St.  Honor6. 
Strawberries. 


At  a  luncheon,  given  in  a  country  house  to  a  large  party 
of  golfers,  aU  the  edibles,  consisting  of  cold  meats,  game, 
aspics,  salads,  and  mince-pie,  were  placed  on  the  side-table, 
and  the  gentlemen  served  the  ladies  before  taking  their 
own  places  at  the  table.  The  servants  came  into  the  room 
only  to  remove  the  plates.  This  gave  a  very  social  and 
lively  character  to  the  meal,  which  all  enjoyed  for  its  in- 
formality. 

Entertainments  of  this  kind  may  often  be  practicable, 
as  the  question  of  service  sometimes  debars  one  from  en- 
tertaining many  guests  at  a  time. 


THE  FIVE  O'CLOCK  TEA 

A  CUP  of  tea  at  this  time  of  the  afternoon  is  usu- 
ally gratefully  accepted,  and  one  is  disappointed  if  it 
is  made  so  badly  that  it  is  not  drinkable.  The  young 
lady  who  presides  at  the  tea  table  at  an  afternoon 
reception  has  sometimes  a  diflScult  task  if  the  tea  is 
not  prepared  with  a  bag  (as  directed  on  page  550),  but 
for  the  unceremonious  social  cup  of  tea  with  the 
friend  who  drops  in  at  this  hour  it  is  easy  to  have  it 
just  right.  After  the  proper  preparation  of  the  tea  (as 
directed  on  page  549),  the  attractiveness  of  the  table 
and  the  delicacy  of  the  china  are  the  next  things  to 
be  desired.  Tea  does  not  taste  as  well  taken  from  a 
coarse,  large,  or  heavy  cup.  The  taste  and  refine- 
ment of  the  hostess  are  easily  recognized  in  this  very 
unceremonious,  but  very  social,  function.  The  cloth 
may  be  as  elaborate  as  one  wishes,  but  it  must  above 
all  be  spotless,  un wrinkled  and  dainty.  The  cups  may 
all  differ  from  one  another,  but  each  one  should  be 
small  and  thin,  and  the  steaming  kettle,  which  lends 
cheerfulness  to  the  occasion,  should  be  highly  pol- 
ished, whether  it  be  silver,  brass,  or  copper.  A  dry 
biscuit  or  a  thin  piece  of  bread  and  butter  is  usually 
offered  with  the  tea.  Fresh  unsalted  butter  is  pref- 
erable, but  any  of  the  fine  butters  may  be  used.  The 
butter  is  spread  very  evenly  on  the  loaf ;  the  bread 
sliced  very  thin  and  doubled  like  a  sandwich.  It  may 
be  cut  into  any  shape  desired,  such  as  strips,  diamonds, 
or  triangles.  It  is  attractive  stamped  into  circles  with 
a  biscuit-cutter  of  about  the  size  of  a  silver  doUar. 
3  33 


34  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Three  kinds  of  bread  maybe  used — white,  graham,  and 
Boston  brown  bread,  and  all  may  be  served  on  the  same 
plate.  This  simple  dish  is  carried  into  the  esthetics  in 
some  English  houses,  where  the  bread  and  butter  is  de- 
scribed as  tasting  of  roses,  violets,  clover,  or  nastur- 
tiums. The  flavor  is  obtained  by  shutting  the  fresh 
butter  in  a  tight  jar  with  the  blossoms  for  several 
hours.  Butter  very  readily  absorbs  flavors  and  odors, 
indeed  it  is  the  medium  used  for  extracting  perfumes 
in  the  manufacture  of  those  articles.  The  flavored 
butter  is  spread  in  the  ordinary  way  on  the  bread, 
which  has  been  treated  also  to  a  bath  of  flowers. 
Butter  sandwiches  must  be  exceedingly  thin  and 
shapely,  and  have  no  suggestion  of  mussiness.  They 
should  be  laid  in  a  folded  napkin  to  keep  them  fresh. 
Any  sweet  wafers  may  also  be  used,  but  as  this  is  not 
a  meal,  nothing  should  be  offered  which  will  take 
away  the  appetite  for  dinner,  which  follows  shortly 
afterward. 


A  HOMILY  ON  COOKING 

It  is  a  trite  saying  that  a  thing  wortli  doing  at  all 
is  worth  doing  well,  but,  from  the  inefficiency  of  the 
large  number  of  domestics  who  hold  the  office  of 
cook,  and  from  the  acceptance  of  careless  work  by  so 
many  families,  it  would  seem  that  the  truism  is  not 
regarded  in  reference  to  cooking.  Since  it  is  upon 
the  kitchen  that  the  health  and  comfort  of  the  family 
so  greatly  depend,  is  it  not  a  duty,  and  would  it  not 
be  a  pleasure,  for  the  mistress  of  every  house  to 
understand  the  science  of  cooking  as  well  as  the 
arts  which  give  other  attractions  to  the  house?  A 
knowledge  of  its  fundamental  principles  would  give 
her  a  sense  of  independence  and  power,  which  know- 
ledge is  proverbially  said  to  do.  If  she  were  familiar 
with  the  nature  of  the  yeast  plant,  and  the  action  of 
heat  as  applied  in  boiling,  broiling,  and  frying,  if  she 
could  make  a  sauce  and  clear  a  soup,  her  family 
would  be  relieved  from  the  affliction  of  sour  bread, 
burned  meats,  and  muddy  soup.  An  ordinary  kitchen 
servant  can  do  these  simple  things  well,  if  she  is  once 
told  how,  and  this  basis  would  be  a  guide  in  other 
work,  and  a  safeguard  against  many  failures.  There 
is  no  such  thing  as  luck  in  cooking.  Laws  govern 
the  chemical  changes  which  take  place,  and  can  always 
be  relied  upon.  Water  will  boil  at  212°,  and  cannot 
be  made  hotter  by  violent  boiling  in  an  open  vessel. 
Frying  can  be  properly  done  only  when  the  fat  is 
smoking  hot.  Broiling  can  be  properly  done  only 
over,  or  under,  hot  and  bright  coals.     For  baking, 

35 


36  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

the  oven  must  be  of  the  right  temperature.  The 
same  thing  cooked  in  the  same  way  will  always  be 
the  same,  and  failure  comes  simply  from  neglect  of 
the  rules.  It  is  as  easy  to  have  good  cooking  as 
bad;  the  former  requires  only  the  elements  of  care 
and  intelligence.  With  very  little  trouble,  dishes  may 
be  made  to  please  the  sight  as  well  as  the  taste.  The 
difference  between  the  elegance  and  refinement  of  one 
table  and  the  vulgarity  of  another  often  lies  merely 
in  the  manner  of  dishing  and  serving.  Again,  the  step 
from  plain  to  fancy  cooking  is  very  short.  A  simple 
and  tasteful  arrangement,  or  combination,  of  materials 
prepared  in  the  ordinary  way  will  make  an  orna- 
mental dish.  Minced  chicken  pressed  into  a  ring 
mold  to  give  it  shape,  and  the  center  filled  with  a 
mushroom  sauce,  will  make  a  more  appetizing  dish 
than  if  placed  carelessly  together  with  no  regard  to 
symmetry.  Potatoes  pressed  into  a  fancy  mold,  a 
part  of  the  center  removed,  and  the  space  filled  with 
chopped  seasoned  meat,  wiU  give  a  chartreuse,  and  no 
thought  of  hash  suggested.  A  jelly  with  a  flower  in 
the  top,  or  of  two  colors,  will  make  a  decorative  piece 
for  the  table.  Uniformity  in  size  and  shape  of  pota- 
toes, chops,  pancakes,  slices  of  bread  or  anything  that 
is  served  on  the  same  dish,  gives  a  pleasing  sense  of 
order  and  care,  which  is  as  marked  as  the  proper  ar- 
rangement of  the  table  furniture.  It  is  in  little  things 
only  that  tauay  differs  from  plain  cooking,  but  as 
soon  as  a  cook  comprehends  the  value  of  the  appear- 
ance of  dishes  she  is  sure  to  think  of  their  perfection 
in  every  other  way. 

There  is  a  popular  prejudice  against  fried  foods, 
and  a  belief  that  abstaining  from  them  will  cure  us 
of  our  dyspepsia,  but  if  articles  are  properly  fried 
they  should  contain  no  more  grease  than  the  boiled 
one  does  of  water.    Smoking  fat  has  such  a  high 


A  HOMILY  ON  COOKING  37 

degree  of  heat,  that  certain  articles  are  better  cooked 
by  frying  than  by  any  other  method.  Minced  meat, 
rolled  into  the  form  of  croquettes  and  fried,  assumes 
a  different  character  both  in  taste  and  rank  from  the 
minced  meat  heated  in  other  ways.  If  the  croquettes 
are  coated  with  egg  and  crumbs  and  immersed  in 
smoking  hot  fat,  as  the  rule  directs,  the  egg  is  in- 
stantly hardened,  and  no  fat  can  be  absorbed  through 
it.  That  which  covers  the  outside  is  evaporated  by 
draining  and  drying  in  a  hot  place.  The  napkin  on 
which  the  croquettes  are  served  will  not  be  stained  if 
thej^  are  rightly  fried.  Saratoga  chips  can  be  handled 
with  a  glove  without  soiling  it.  We  need  not  be  a 
nation  of  dyspeptics  from  eating  pie  when  the  French 
are  not  from  eating  puff-paste,  or  from  hot  breads 
when  the  English  are  not  from  plum  pudding  and 
pork  pies.  It  is  from  the  manner  of  preparing  our 
foods  that  we  suffer.  Cooking  has  not  been  one  of 
the  virtues  of  our  new  country,  as  we  have  been  satis- 
fled  to  get  our  cooks  from  France  and  Ireland,  but 
if  intelligent  American  housewives  will  take  interest 
and  pleasure  in  this  important  department,  which  is 
delegated  to  their  care,  some  of  the  serious  trials  of 
life  will  be  overcome,  and  emancipation  from  many 
petty  cares  and  annoyances  will  follow. 


COOKING  AS  A  PLEASUEE  AND 
AN  ACCOMPLISHMENT 

The  common  sayings  about  waste  in  American 
kitchens,  dyspeptic  results  of  American  cooking,  etc., 
reflect  the  opinion  held  by  other  nations  of  our  culi- 
nary art,  and  though  the  judgment  may  be  too  severe, 
it  has  been  pronounced,  and  should  remind  us  of  our 
shortcomings. 

It  seems,  however,  as  though  a  new  era  were  now 
dawning.  Cooking-schools  are  established  in  large 
cities,  cooking  lectures  are  given  everywhere  and  are 
well  attended.  The  nutritive  values  of  different  foods 
and  the  chemistry  of  cooking  are  studied.  This,  and 
the  recognition  of  the  fact  that  health  proceeds  largely 
from  the  diet,  seem  to  indicate  that  there  has  been  an 
awakening  of  interest  in  the  subject  of  gastronomy. 
In  this  day  of  fads,  it  will  soon  be  discovered  also 
that  pleasures  lie  in  this  line  of  work.  Fancy  cook- 
ing has  an  interest  quite  as  engaging  as  other  occupa- 
tions of  diversion.  Fine  cooking  utensils,  gas-stoves, 
and  modem  conveniences,  make  the  well-appointed 
kitchen  as  attractive  as  the  laboratory  or  workshop. 
Trying  a  new  dish  has  the  same  interest  as  any  other 
experiment.  The  construction  of  ornamental  pieces 
is  as  interesting  as  other  fancy  work.  Making  puff- 
paste,  ice-creams,  fancy  molding  of  desserts  and  sal- 
ads, boiling  sugar,  etc.,  are  in  reality  simple  pro- 
cesses, and  with  very  little  practice  found  to  be  as 
easy  to  prepare  as  dishes  which  from  familiarity  have 
come  to  be  called  plain  cooking.  Skill  and  dexterity 
of  hand  may  be  enjoyed  in  boning,  trussing,  and  lard- 
ing, and  taste  shown  in  decorating  with  truffles  and 
other  articles,  in  molding  with  flowers  and  fruits,  in 

«8 


COOKING  AS  A  PLEASURE  AND  AN  ACCOMPLISHMENT  39 

icing  cakes,  in  spinning  sugar,  and  in  making  bonbons. 
The  pleasure  of  decorating  the  table  and  adorning  the 
dining-room  will  be  found  secondary  to  that  of  pre- 
paring artistic  dishes  when  that  art  has  once  been 
learned. 

The  gas-stove  obviates  the  objection,  formerly  ex- 
isting, of  one's  being  subjected  to  excessive  heat  while 
cooking.  At  a  cost  of  about  $2.00  a  stove  can  be 
bought  which  will  stand  on  a  table  anywhere,  and 
answer  all  ordinary  purposes  of  boiling  and  frying. 
More  expensive  ones,  fitted  with  ovens  and  other  appli- 
ances, answer  the  requirements  of  all  kinds  of  cooking. 

When  the  preparation  of  a  new  or  a  fancy  dish  comes 
to  be  looked  upon  as  a  pastime  instead  of  a  task,  there 
may  be  discovered  in  America  Savarins  and  Becha- 
mels. We  have  already  had  a  Sam  Ward,  but  to  the 
women  should  belong  the  honor  of  raising  our  stan- 
dard of  cooking,  and  though  they  need  not  agree  with 
the  terrible  sentiment  expressed  by  Margaret  Fuller, 
that  a  woman  to  have  influence  must  cook  or  scold, 
still  it  must  be  conceded  that  the  former  accomplish- 
ment will  enable  her  to  wield  a  potent  scepter.  Per- 
haps, however,  the  strongest  word  to  be  said  in  favor 
of  every  mistress  of  a  house  knowing  how  to  cook  is 
the  usefulness  of  it.  The  difficulty  of  getting  trained 
cooks  at  reasonable  wages,  the  caprices  of  the  class, 
whose  consciences  do  not  prevent  their  leaving  at  the 
moment  when  their  services  are  most  needed,  and  the 
many  occasions  that  arise  when  a  knowledge  of  cook- 
ing is  of  the  greatest  comfort  and  service,  make  it 
difficult,  for  those  who  know  how  to  cook,  to  compre- 
hend how  any  one  can  keep  house  without  this  know- 
ledge, or  how,  with  the  inferior  service  generally  ren- 
dered, the  pleasures  of  hospitality  can  be  enjoyed,  or 
the  comfort  of  a  well-ordered  culinary  department 
experienced.  , 


TO  TRAIN  A  GREEN  COOK 

If  one  is  obliged  to  accept  the  service  of  inexperi- 
enced cooks,  or  6f  women  who  claim  to  be  plain  cooks, 
but  in  reality  know  nothing  of  the  right  ways  of  pre- 
pai-ing  anything,  it  is  often  necessary  to  do  more  or 
less  teaching  or  supervising.  Often  it  would  be  found 
easier  to  begin  at  the  beginning,  and  teach  an  entirely 
green  girl  who  has  intelligence  and  a  desire  to  learn, 
than  it  is  to  correct  careless  habits  or  bad  methods 
already  formed.  A  formula  for  teaching  a  green 
cook  is  given  below  for  the  benefit  of  any  who  care 
to  avail  of  it. 

First.  Impress  the  necessity  of  clean  utensils,  being 
particular  that  every  saucepan  used  is  perfectly  clean 
on  the  outside  as  well  as  the  inside. 

Second.  Have  all  the  utensils  of  one  kind  kept  to- 
gether in  definite  places,  and  insist  that  each  one  is 
returned  to  its  place  as  soon  as  it  has  served  its  use, 
thus  establishing  system. 

Third.  When  sugar,  butter,  spices,  or  any  articles 
are  taken  out  for  use,  have  the  boxes  returned  to  their 
places  as  soon  as  the  desired  quantity  is  removed. 

Fourth.  Do  not  allow  any  accumulation  of  soiled 
utensils  waiting  for  a  general  cleaning-up.  A  great 
deal  of  time  and  work  can  be  saved,  and  an  orderly 
kitchen  maintained,  by  washing  things  as  you  go 
along  so  far  as  possible  at  odd  moments,  and  also  in 
not  using  an  unnecessary  number  of  dishes. 

Fifth.  Explain  about  exact  measurements.  Insist 
upon  the  use  of  the  tin  measuring-cup  (see  page  77). 

40 


TO  TEAIN  A  GREEN  COOK  41 

Sixth.  Have  a  time-table  giving  time  per  pound 
for  cooking  meats,  fastened  in  a  convenient  place 
against  the  wall,  for  easy  reference. 

Seventh.  Have  all  meats  weighed  and  wiped  off  with 
a  wet  cloth  before  proceeding  to  cook  them. 

Eighth.  At  all  times  give  attention  to  right  man- 
agement of  the  fire ;  be  especially  careful  not  to  have 
coal  piled  above  the  grate,  nor  to  let  the  top  of  range 
become  red-hot.  Shut  off  drafts  before  the  coal  is 
burned  out,  and  have  the  ovens  clean  and  at  the  right 
temperature. 

ninth.  Have  everything  dished  neatly,  and  gar- 
nished simply. 

Tenth.  No  matter  how  simple  the  dish,  insist  that 
it  be  attractive  in  appearance,  and  that  every  dish 
placed  on  the  table  show  the  care  of  the  cook  in  its 
preparation;  for  instance,  have  every  piece  of  toast 
of  the  same  size  and  shape,  evenly  browned  and  care- 
fully arranged  on  a  hot  plate. 

To  instil  strict  care  in  every  detail  is  a  most  im- 
portant point  in  forming  a  good  cook. 

DISHES  RECOMMENDED  FOB,  FIRST  LESSONS. 

To  make  beef  stock  for  soups,  page  88. 

To  boil  potatoes,  page  201. 

To  boil  rice,  page  222. 

To  make  a  white  sauce,  page  277. 
With  one  half  the  sauce  make  cream  potatoes,  add 
a  little  onion  juice  to  the  other  half,  and  add  to  it 
meat  minced  very  fine,  making  a  creamed  mince. 
Serve  it  on  moistened  toast;  or  make  creamed  chicken 
and  serve  a  border  of  rice  around  it.  When  making 
a  roux,  and  a  white  sauce  is  understood,  it  is  easy  to 
show  the  variations  of  it,  such  as  to  cook  onion  or 
vegetables  with  the  butter  before  the  flour  is  added  \ 


42  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

or  to  brown  the  flour  if  a  brown  sauce  is  wanted ;  or 
to  use  stock  instead  of  milk,  thus  making  a  Bechamel 
sauce;  or  to  add  an  egg  to  white  sauce,  making  a 
poulette  sauce,  etc. 

To  poach  eggs :  Serve  them  on  toast  cut  uniformly 
and  moistened.  Place  symmetrically  on  dish  and  gar- 
nish with  parsley ;  or,  spread  the  toast  with  creamed 
mince,  place  a  poached  egg  on  each  piece,  and  put  a 
spot  of  pepper  on  the  center  of  the  yolk. 

To  make  coffee,  page  551. 

To  broil  a  steak,  page  156. 

To  boil  a  leg  of  mutton,  caper  sauce,  pages  163  and  164. 

To  roast  beef  and  baste  frequently,  roast  potatoes 
in  the  same  pan,  pages  146  and  204. 

To  draw  and  truss  a  chicken,  pages  180  and  183. 

To  clear  the  beef  stock  for  clear  soup,  page  86. 

To  make  common  stock,  page  87. 

To  make  potato  soup,  page  103. 

To  clarify  drippings,  page  74. 

To  try  out  all  other  fat,  page  74, 

To  dry  bread  and  roll  it  into  crumbs,  page  51. 

To  make  bread  and  bread  biscuits,  page  340. 

To  make  rice  pudding,  page  433. 

To  make  bread  pudding,  page  434, 

To  make  plain  cornstarch  pudding,  page  397. 

A  compote  to  serve  with  cornstarch  pudding, 
page  535. 

Cottage  pudding,  sabayon  sauce,  pages  435  and  446. 

Cup  cake,  page  470, 

Cookies,  page  481. 

Plain  pie-crust,  page  451. 

Baked  apple-dumplings,  hard  sauce,  pp,  429  and  448. 

Some  variations  of  cornstarch  pudding,  page  398. 

Plain  wine- jelly,  page  415, 

When  a  woman  has  learned  to  do  these  few  simple 
things  perfectly,  she  wiU  have  no  difl&culty  in  follow- 


TO  TRAIN  A  GREEN  COOK  43 

ing  any  ordinary  receipt,  and  having  a  knowledge  of 
the  first  principles  of  cooking,  can  then  advance  to 
more  elaborate  dishes. 

Frying  should  not  be  attempted  until  she  can 
roast,  broil,  and  bake. 

Croquettes  of  various  kinds  can  then  be  made; 
to  mold  them  uniformly  requires  a  little  practice — 
the  care  of  the  fat  and  the  right  degree  of  heat  are 
the  essential  things  to  emphasize  in  frying. 

In  one  month  a  woman  of  ordinary  intelligence, 
with  the  desire  to  learn,  should  be  able  to  make  per- 
fectly, and  serve  attractively,  enough  simple  dishes  to 
supply  the  family  table  with  sufficient  variety,  with- 
out troubling  the  mistress  to  plan  and  think  for  her. 

An  insistence  upon  system  and  exactness  will  in- 
sure immunity  from  failures. 


ECONOMICAL  LTVINa 

A  VERY  pleasant  book  called  "$10.00  Enough"  ex- 
plains  how  a  family  of  two  lived  well  on  that  sum 
per  week,  including  house  rent  and  wages  of  one  ser- 
vant. Mrs.  Rorer  says  $2.00  per  head  a  week  is  a  lib- 
eral  allowance.  Articles  are  published  giving  direc- 
tions for  living  on  ten  cents  a  day;  also  of  dinners  for 
six  people  costing  twenty-five  cents.  In  examining 
these  formulae  it  is  evident  that  in  order  to  accom- 
plish this  very  small  cost  of  living,  one  must  first  un- 
derstand the  comparative  values  of  foods,  so  as  to  se- 
lect those  which  at  low  prices  furnish  the  necessary 
nourishment,  and  secondly,  to  be  able  to  cook  them 
in  such  a  way  as  to  make  them  acceptable ;  in  fact  the 
rule  holds  good,  however  high  the  scale  of  living,  that 
the  proper  cooking  of  food  counts  for  more  than  the 
cost  of  it.  The  cheap  and  the  expensive  articles  can 
be  equally  spoiled  in  the  cooking;  while  the  cheap  ones, 
well  cooked,  are  more  esteemed  than  the  high-priced 
ones  poorly  prepared.  The  first  thing  excluded  from 
the  list  of  cheap  nutritive  foods  is  white  bread.  Re~ 
fining  the  flour  to  the  whiteness  of  the  so-called  best 
qualities  takes  out  most  of  its  nutritive  elements, 
while  the  lower  grades  or  brown  flours  retain  the 
gluten,  and  make  a  bread  which  is  preferred  when  one 
becomes  familiar  with  it.  Beans,  peas,  and  corn-meal 
have  an  important  place  on  the  list  of  accepted  foods. 
They  supply  the  wastes  of  the  system  and  afford  a 
hearty  meal.  Meat,  which  is  the  most  expensive  food, 
has  come  to  be  regarded  here  as  a  necessity,  but  in 

44 


ECONOMICAL  LlVma  46 

the  old  countries  the  classes  who  perform  the  hardest 
labor  consider  it  only  as  a  luxury,  and  seldom  use  it 
oftener  than  once  a  week.  Often  the  cost  of  living  is 
more  in  the  waste  than  in  the  actual  consumption  of 
food.  Another  needless  and  unwise  expense  is  buy- 
ing more  than  is  required,  providing  for  three  persons 
enough  for  six ;  and  still  another  extravagance  is  in 
buying  articles  which  are  out  of  season.  For  instance, 
in  the  spring  veal  is  a  very  cheap  meat ;  in  the  autumn 
it  is  the  most  expensive  one,  but,  at  the  right  times, 
one  may  indulge  in  sweetbreads,  calf's  head,  calf's 
brains,  and  liver.  In  its  season  game  is  frequently 
abundant  and  reasonably  cheap.  The  idea  prevails 
that,  in  order  to  have  variety,  it  is  necessary  to  buy 
whatever  the  market  offers,  whereas  variety  may  be 
attained  by  variation  in  the  ways  of  cooking,  in  serv- 
ing with  different  sauces,  and  with  different  accom- 
paniments, and  in  arranging  the  menu  so  that  one 
course  is  in  pleasing  contrast  to  the  preceding  one, 
thus  avoiding  surfeit. 

Many  pieces  of  meat  of  the  best  quality  are  sold  at 
low  rates  because  not  in  shapes  to  be  served  as  boiling 
or  roasting  pieces.  These  serve  well  for  entrees  and 
made-up  dishes;  other  pieces,  which  are  tough,  but 
well  flavored,  can  by  slow  cooking  be  made  as  tender 
as  the  prime  cuts,  such  as  a  round  of  beef  braised. 

On  page  249  will  be  found  a  number  of  menus  and 
receipts  for  very  inexpensive  dinners. 

Mr.  Gibson,  in  an  interesting  article  on  "Mush-  Mushrooms, 
rooms,"  published  in "  Harper's  Magazine "  for  Au- 
gust, 1894,  calls  attention  to  the  vast  amount  of 
wholesome  and  nutritious  food  that  lies  at  the  door 
of  every  country  dweller.  City  people  pay  at  least  a 
dollar  a  pound  for  mushrooms,  which  are  served  at  the 
finest  dinners,  and  are  considered  as  among  the  best 
articles  for  use  in  high-class  cooking.    Therefore,  why 


46  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

should  they  be  scorned  or  overlooked  by  those  who  can 
have  them  for  the  gathering?  Neglect  to  use  them 
seems  equal  in  wastefulness  to  the  practice  of  some 
country  butchers,  who  throw  away  calves'  heads,  brains, 
sweetbreads,  fresh  tongues,  etc.,  because  the  people  have 
not  learned  their  value.  A  French  family  who  moved 
into  a  western  town  reported  that  the  cost  of  living 
there  was  nominal,  because  the  foods  which  they  most 
prized,  not  being  recognized  as  belonging  on  the  list 
of  comestibles,  were  given  away  by  the  butchers  as 
food  for  dogs.  Mushrooms  are  very  distinctive  in 
feature,  and  by  the  aid  of  descriptions  given  in  books 
and  colored  charts,  one  can  easily  learn  the  edible  va- 
rieties which  grow  in  his  neighborhood.  By  taking 
no  risks  in  eating  those  not  perfectly  recognized,  there 
is  no  danger  of  being  poisoned.  It  is  not  thought 
difSicult  to  learn  varieties  of  the  rose,  nor  to  discrimi- 
nate between  the  poison  and  the  innocuous  ivy.  The 
form,  color,  and.  habitat  of  mushrooms  make  them 
equally  easy  to  recognize.  Care  should  be  taken, 
however,  to  avoid  any  mushroom  which  is  old  or 
partly  decayed,  as  its  condition  then  is  analogous  to 
that  of  putrid  meat.  In  their  season  the  edible  fungi 
grow  in  great  profusion ;  they  are  nitrogenous,  con- 
taining the  same  nutritive  elements  as  meat,  and  well 
serve  as  a  substitute  for  it,  giving  a  pleasant  change 
to  the  limited  bill  of  frugal  fare.  Mr.  Gibson  speaks 
of  them  as  beefsteaks.  They  seem  from  circumstances, 
therefore,  to  have  a  place  in  the  dietary  of  the  poor 
as  weU  as  the  rich.  Receipts  for  cooking  mushrooms 
are  given  on  page  314. 

It  is  sometimes  thought  to  be  an  extravagance  to 
serve  a  roast  to  a  small  family,  because  so  much  meat  is 
left  over.  When  there  is  no  way  known  of  presenting 
it  again  except  as  cold  meat  or  as  hash,  it  may  indeed 
be  disagreeable  to  have  the  same  meat  served  four 


ECONOMICAL  LIVING  47 

times.  A  good  cook,  however,  served  turkey  accept- 
ably at  four  dinners  to  a  family  of  three  persons  in 
this  way : 

FIRST  DAY'S  DINNEE 

10  lbs.  turkey  at  16  cents  per  lb $1.60 

1  quart  sweet  potatoes  boiled .10 

2  quarts  apples  (of  which  she  used  three  for  baked 

apple  dumplings,  sabayon  sauce,  page  446) .15 

1  egg 03 

1  lemon 02 

i  cup  sugar 01 

—  .06 

Cost  of  first  day's  dinner $1.91 

SECOND  DATS  DINNER 

2  lbs.  codfish  boiled .20 

HOLLANDAISE  SAUCE  (page  281). 

2  eggs 06 

i  lb.  butter 08 

i  lemon 01 

—  .15 
6  croquettes  made  of  one  cupful  of  turkey  meat .00 

SATJOE  TO  MIX  THEM 

i  cup  milk , 01 

i  tablespoonful  butter 01 

1  egg 03 

—  .05 
i  tablespoonful  flour  (see  croquettes,  page  293) 

1  pint  cranberries .09 

Sweet  potatoes  left  from  day  before,  cut  in  strips  and 
browned  (see  page  206) .00 

BROWN  BETTY  PUDDING 

Apples  from  day  before 00 

Molasses  and  crumbs  05 

—  .05 

Cost  of  second  dinner .54 


48  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

THIBD  DAY'S  DINNER 

Soup  made  from  carcass  of  turkey 00 

CHICKEN  souFFLfc  (page  190). 
1  cup  turkey  meat 00 

SAUCE  TO  MIX  IT 

1  tablespoonful  butter 02 

1  cup  milk   04 

3  eggs - 09 

Other  ingredients 02 

—  .17 

BAKED  MACARONI 

i  l"b.  macaroni 04 

Cheese  05 

—  .09 

COTTAGE  PUDDING 
1  egg 03 

■J  cup  sugar 01 

•J  cup  milk 02 

1  tablespoonful  butter  03 

Baking  powder 01 

—  .10 
CHOCOLATE  SAUCE  (page  447). 

3  oz,  chocolate    08 

■J  cup  sugar 02 

—  .10 

Cost  of  third  day's  dinner .46 

FOITETH  DAY'S  DINNEB 

1  codfish  steak,  1  lb    10 

4  smelts  for  garnishing   10 

—  .20 

CHARTREUSE   OP  CHICKEN  (page  190). 

1  cup  rice 04 

White  sauce 07 

What  is  left  of  turkey  including  giblets    00 

Boiled  potatoes 05 

Scalloped  tomatoes  15 

Salad  of  water-cresses 05 

Bread  pudding 10 

—  .46 

Cost  of  fourth  day's  dinner .66 


ECONOMICAL  LIVING  49 

First  day $1.91 

Second  day 54 

Third  day 46 

Fourth  day 66 

Extras  for  bread,  seasonings,  etc 30 

Total $3.87 

Average  per  day 96i  cents. 

The  turkey  in  this  case  gave  three  cupfuls  of 
chopped  meat  after  the  dinner  of  the  first  day.  Any 
kind  of  meat  can  be  made  into  the  same  dishes,  and 
will  be  liked  if  the  meat  is  chopped  very  fine,  is  well 
seasoned,  and  made  creamy  by  using  enough  sauce. 


WASTEFULNESS 

As  a  rule  the  family  life  of  America  does  not  repre- 
sent opulence,  yet  it  has  become  a  familiar  saying  that 
a  French  family  could  live  on  what  an  American  fam- 
ily throws  away.  Again,  it  is  said  that  in  American 
kitchens  half  the  provisions  are  spoiled  and  the  other 
half  wasted.  There  is  no  need  to-day  of  being  open 
to  such  accusations.  At  small  expense  a  woman  can 
have  the  benefit  of  lessons  in  cooking-schools,  and 
should  not  be  accepted  as  a  cook  until  she  has  some 
knowledge  of  the  duties,  and  is  qualified  to  bear  that 
name.  The  gage  of  a  woman's  rank  in  her  profes- 
sion can  be  definitely  determined  by  what  she  wastes 
or  utilizes,  and  the  high  wages  paid  a  first-class  cook 
are  often  saved  by  the  intelligent  use  she  makes  of  all 
her  materials.  Many  of  her  best  entrees  are  but  a 
combination  of  odds  and  ends  which  another  cook 
would  throw  away.  Her  delicious  sauce,  which  gives 
a  very  ordinary  dish  that  requisite  something  which 
makes  it  highly  esteemed,  may  be  but  the  blending 
of  many  flavors  obtained  from  little  scraps. 

The  waste  in  foods  need  be  so  small  as  practically  to 
have  no  waste  material ;  not  a  crumb  of  bread,  a  grain 
of  sugar,  a  bit  of  butter,  a  scrap  of  meat  or  fat,  a 
piece  of  vegetable  or  leaf  of  salad,  but  can  be  utilized 
with  profit.  The  soup  pot  is  a  receptacle  for  every- 
thing too  small  for  other  uses,  and  from  this  source 
can  be  drawn  seasonings  which  will  give  richness  and 
flavor  to  innumerable  dishes,  which  are  greatly  im- 
proved by  using  stock  instead  of  milk  or  water  in  their 
preparation. 

50 


HOW  TO  UTILIZE  WHAT   SOME  COOKS 
THROW  AWAY 

Trim  such  pieces  of  cut  bread  as  will  do  for  toast  Bread, 
into  uniform  shape  and  serve  at  the  next  breakfast. 
Smaller  pieces  cut  into  croutons  (page  81)  for  gar- 
nishing or  for  soup.  Save  unshapely  pieces  for  bread 
pudding,  Brown  Betty,  or  stuffings.  Save  every  scrap 
of  bread  for  crumbs,  to  use  for  breading  croquettes, 
chops,  scallop  dishes,  etc.  It  is  well  to  have  two  kinds 
of  crumbs,  using  the  white  ones  for  the  outside  of 
fried  articles,  as  they  give  a  better  color.  To  prepare 
the  crumbs,  separate  the  crumb  from  the  crusts  of 
bread  and  dry  each  of  them  slowly,  on  separate  tins, 
on  the  shelf  of  the  range.  When  dry,  roll,  sift  and 
place  them  in  glass  preserve- jars  until  wanted. 

Clarify  all  beef  fat  and  drippings,  the  grease  which  Fat 
rises  on  soup  stock,  and  fat  from  poultry,  and  keep  in 
a  clean  jar  or  tin  pail  for  use  in  fr3dng ;  it  is  preferable 
to  lard  (see  "  frying,"  pages  72  and  59).  Mutton,  tur- 
key, and  smoked  meat  fat  has  too  strong  a  flavor  to 
be  used  for  frying,  but  save  it  with  other  fat  that  may 
be  unsuitable  for  frying,  and  when  six  pounds  are  col- 
lected make  it  into  hard  soap  (page  259). 

Use  the  marrow  of  beef  bones  on  toast  for  a  lunch- 
eon entree  (page  159),  or  use  it  with  bread  to  make 
balls  for  soup  (page  94). 

Grill  wings  and  legs  of  fowls  that  are  left  over 
(page  188)  for  luncheon,  or  stuff  the  legs  as  directed 
(page  188).  If  the  sinews  are  removed  from  the  legs 
when  the  fowl  is  drawn,  as  directed  (page  180),  the 

61 


62  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

meat  of  the  leg  will  be  as  good  as  that  of  the  second 
joint. 

Use  a  ham  bone  for  improving  bean  soup.  Use  the 
carcasses  of  fowls  and  the  bones  from  roasts  for  mak- 
ing soup. 

Try  out  chop  bones  and  other  meat  taken  from  the 
Tough      plates  for  soap  fat. 

FieoM.  Chop  the  tough  ends  of  steak  very  fine,  season,  and 

form  them  into  balls  or  cakes,  saute  or  broil  them,  and 
serve  for  breakfast  or  luncheon  (see  "Hamburg 
SmaH  steaks,"  page  151). 
ColdMeats.  Cut  pieces  of  white  meat  into  dice  or  strips,  mix  it 
with  a  white  sauce,  turn  it  into  a  flat  dish,  make  a 
border  of  pointed  croutons,  sprinkle  over  the  top  a 
little  chopped  parsley,  and  garnish  with  hard-boiled 
egg  J  or  mix  the  meat  with  aspic  jeUy  in  a  mold  and 
serve  cold  with  salad. 

Mix  dark  meats  of  any  kind  with  a  brown  sauce, 
and  garnish  with  lettuce  leaves,  hard-boiled  eggs,  and 
croutons.  Any  kind  of  cold  meat  may  be  chopped 
and  used  in  an  omelet,  or  combined  with  rice  and  to- 
matoes for  a  scallop.  For  cold  mutton  see  "  Ragoiit 
of  Mutton  "(page  165). 
Eggs.  Save  egg-shells   to   clear  soup,  jellies,  or  coffee. 

Boiled  eggs  that  are  left  return  to  the  fire  and  boQ 
them  hard  to  use  for  garnishing,  to  mix  with  salad, 
or  to  make  golden  toast  (page  270)  for  luncheon. 
Cold  poached  eggs  can  be  boiled  hard  and  used  in 
the  same  way.  Cold  fried  or  scrambled  eggs  can  be 
chopped  and  mixed  with  minced  meat,  and  will  mucli 
improve  it. 

When  an  egg  is  opened  for  the  white  alone,  drop 
the  yolk  carefully  into  a  cup,  cover  the  cup  with  a  wet 
cloth,  and  keep  it  in  the  ice-box  until  wanted.  "When 
whites  are  left  over  make  a  small  angel  cake  (page 
467),  angel  ice  cream  (page  497),  kisses  (page  475), 


HOW  TO  UTILIZE 


53 


General 

Odds  and 

Ends. 


Cereals. 


or  cover  any  dessert  with  meringue,  or  serve  a  mer- 
ingue sauce  (page  448)  with  the  next  dessert,  or  make 
a  meat  souffle  without  yolks  (page  190). 

Everything  too  small  to  utilize  in  other  ways  put 
in  the  soup  pot,  and  from  this  can  be  drawn  sauces  and 
seasoning  for  minces,  scallops,  etc.,  that  will  often  be 
better  than  specially  prepared  stock. 

Oatmeal,  hominy,  cracked  wheat,  and  other  cereals 
which  are  left  over  can  be  added  next  day  to  the  fresh 
stock,  for  they  are  improved  by  long  boiling  and  do 
not  injure  the  new  supply,  or  such  as  is  left  can  be 
molded  in  large  or  in  small  forms,  and  served  cold 
with  cream,  or  milk  and  sugar.  In  warm  weather 
cereals  are  nicer  cold  than  hot.  Cold  hominy  and 
mush,  cut  into  squares  and  fried,  so  that  a  crisp 
crust  is  formed  on  both  sides, — also  hominy  or  farina, 
rolled  into  balls  and  fried, — are  good  used  in  place  of 
a  vegetable  or  as  a  breakfast  dish. 

Any  of  the  cereals  make  good  pancakes,  or  a  small 
amount  added  to  the  ordinary  pancake  batter  im- 
proves it. 

Cold  rice  can  be  added  to  soup,  or  made  into 
croquettes,  or  used  in  a  scallop  dish,  or  mixed  with 
minced  meat  and  egg  and  fried  like  an  omelet.  Cold 
rice  pudding  can  be  cut  into  rounded  pieces  with  a 
spoon  and  served  again  on  a  flat  dish ;  this  may  be 
covered  with  whipped  cream  or  flavored  whipped 
white  of  egg. 

A  small  amount  of  vegetables  left  over  may  go  Vegetables 
into  the  soup,  or  may  be  mixed  with  a  ragoftt.  Peas, 
tomatoes,  or  beans  can  be  put  in  an  omelet.  A 
number  of  vegetables  mixed  together  can  be  used  for 
a  salad.  Cauliflower  broken  into  flowerets,  covered 
with  white  sauce,  and  sprinkled  with  grated  cheese, 
makes  "  cauliflower  au  gratin/  a  dish  which  is  much 
liked. 


64 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


The  coarse  stalks  and  roots  of  celery  make  a  good 
vegetable  dish  when  cut  in  pieces  and  boiled,  or  they 
make  a  good  cream-of-celery  soup.  The  leaves  are 
valuable  in  the  soup  pot  for  flavor;  also  are  useful 
for  garnishing. 
Sotir  Milk.  Sour  milk  makes  cottage  cheese,  or  makes  good 
biscuits. 

For  uses  of  stale  cakes  see  page  411. 

For  jellies  left  over  see  page  418. 
Fruits.  When  fruits  show  signs  of  deterioration,  stew  them 
at  once  instead  of  letting  them  decay.  See  compotes. 
Stew  apple  parings  and  cores  to  a  pulp  and  strain; 
this  will  make  a  jelly  which,  spread  on  apple  tart, 
greatly  improves  it. 

Boil  lemon  and  orange  peels  in  sugar,  and  dry  as 
directed,  page  527,  for  candied  peels. 
Cheesa.         Grate  cheese  which  becomes  dry  and  use  for  gratin 
dishes  or  soups ;  or  it  can  be  served  with  crackers  the 
same  as  though  in  its  original  shape. 


EMERaENCIES 

There  is  to-day  such  a  variety  of  well-preserved 
foods  that  a  store-closet  provided  with  these  articles 
may  be  almost  the  equivalent  of  a  full  larder.  With 
such  a  resource  the  housekeeper  can  meet  without 
embarrassment  the  emergencies  that  may  arise  in 
any  household,  however  well  ordered.  In  the  coun- 
try, where  tradespeople  are  difficult  to  reach,  it  will 
be  especially  useful  at  such  times.  The  articles  sealed 
in  glass  jars  seem  the  most  wholesome,  and  are  some- 
times so  well  preserved  as  to  be  a  very  good  substitute 
for  the  fresh  ones.  Salted  meats  and  fish  are  distinc- 
tive foods,  which  are  occasionally  very  acceptable,  and 
the  dessicated  foods  are  beyond  suspicion  of  unwhole- 
someness.  A  few  suggestions  are  offered  of  how  to 
utilize  some  of  the  articles  which  can  be  recom- 
mended. Many  of  the  soups  are  excellent;  chicken 
gumbo  is  particularly  good.  Extract  of  beef  can  be 
quickly  made  into  soup,  beef -tea,  or  aspic  jelly  (page 
322).  Canned  salmon  and  chicken,  either  of  them,  can 
be  heated  and  covered  with  a  white  sauce,  or  be  used 
for  salad,  or  the  salmon  may  be  broiled  and  covered 
with  a  maitre  d'hdtel  sauce  (page  286). 

Potted  meats  spread  on  toast  make  excellent  cana- 
pes for  luncheon  (page  868).  Shrimps  make  a  salad, 
or  in  a  chafing-dish  can  be  prepared  d  la  Newburg 
(page  333).  Of  the  salted  and  smoked  meats  are  ham, 
bacon,  dried  tongue,  chippea  beef,  codfish,  smoked  sal- 
mon, and  mackerel,  ail  of  which  are  much  esteemed 
as  breakfast  dishes,  and  may  be  offered  at  luncheon 

56 


56  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

or  supper.  Of  the  vegetables,  string-beans  and  flage- 
olets make  good  salads.  Asparagus  makes  a  good 
extra  course  served  alone.  Tomatoes,  the  cheapest  of 
all,  and  perhaps  the  most  useful,  will  make  soup, 
sauces,  a  scallop  dish,  or  may  be  added  to  an  omelet, 
macaroni,  or  rice.  Pilot  bread,  toasted  bread  in  slices, 
and  rusks  make  delicious  cream-toasts  for  luncheon 
or  supper.  Noodles  or  macaroni  boiled  plain  for  a 
vegetable,  or  mixed  with  any  sauce,  tomatoes,  or 
cheese.  Cheese  is  useful  for  canapes  (pages  368-371), 
cheese  souffle  (page  370),  macaroni,  etc.  There  are  va- 
rieties of  plain  and  fancy  cracker  biscuits  which  can 
be  used  in  the  place  of  cake.  Plum-puddings  wrapped 
in  tin-foil  will  keep  indefinitely.  The  canned  whole 
apples  can  be  used  for  dumplings  (page  429)  or  pies. 
California  apricots  or  cherries  around  a  form  of  plain 
boiled  rice,  hominy,  or  other  cereal,  make  a  dessert; 
peaches  make  a  shortcake  (page  443) ;  jams  make  de- 
licious tarts,  or,  served  alone  with  cracker  biscuits,  are 
a  suflScient  dessert  for  luncheon.  Plain  boiled  rice 
may  be  used  as  a  vegetable  in  place  of  potatoes ;  or, 
sweetened  and  mixed  with  a  few  raisins,  or  served 
with  stewed  prunes,  makes  a  dessert. 

There  are  prepared  flours  from  which  biscuits  may 
be  quickly  made ;  prepared  buckwheat  which  makes 
good  pancakes  for  supper  or  for  breakfast.  A  few 
cans  of  condensed  milk  should  be  in  the  store-room  for 
use  in  case  of  real  necessity  only ;  it  answers  very  well 
for  puddings,  sweet  dishes,  or  chocolate. 

Outside  the  store-room  supplies,  eggs  furnish  a 
variety  of  dishes  quickly  prepared.  Eggs  d,  Vaurore, 
or  Bourguignonne,  omelets  with  peas,  tomatoes,  mush- 
rooms, minced  meat,  etc.,  are  for  luncheon,  and  cheese 
omelets,  sweet  omelets,  and  souffles  for  dinner  dishes. 

It  is  well  to  have  fondant  (page  513)  in  close  jars 


EMERGENCIES  57 

ready  for  icing  cakes  or  for  bonbons,  candied  fruits 
for  sweets  or  for  ornamenting  desserts,  ginger  and 
brandied  peaches  to  serve  with  ice-cream.  Lady-fin- 
gers are  easily  made,  and  will  keep  in  a  cracker-box 
indefinitely.  If  these  are  at  hand,  a  Charlotte  russe 
is  quickly  made,  and  is  one  of  the  simplest  and  most 
acceptable  light  desserts. 

There  are  olives,  gherkins,  and  chow-chow  for  hors 
d^ceuvres.  There  are  catsups  and  condiments  in  va- 
riety to  make  barbecues  (page  331),  or  to  make  cold 
meats  acceptable. 

The  growing  plant,  the  globe  of  gold  fish,  the  bird- 
cage partly  concealed  with  branches,  may  be  utilized 
for  table  decoration.  As  circumstances  alter  cases, 
there  are  many  expedients  to  which  a  housekeeper 
may  resort  in  supplying  deficiencies  which  might  not 
be  in  rule,  were  the  occasion  a  formal  one.  The  chaf- 
ing-dish on  the  luncheon  or  supper-table,  or  a  dish 
more  appropriate  to  a  different  meal,  would  not  only 
be  excused,  but  perhaps  give  to  an  embarrassing  oc- 
casion the  pleasant  feature  of  informality. 


THINGS  TO  REMEMBER 

A  DASH  of  salt  added  to  the  whites  of  eggs  makes 
them  whip  better. 

Not  a  speck  of  the  yolk  must  get  into  the  whites 
which  are  to  be  whipped. 

Fold  the  whipped  whites  into  any  mixture  rather  than 
stir  them  in,  as  the  latter  method  breaks  the  air  cells. 

Break  eggs  one  at  a  time  into  a  saucer,  so  any  can 
be  rejected  if  necessary  and  the  mixture  not  be  spoiled. 

Add  a  tablespoonful  of  water  to  an  egg  used  for 
crumbing  in  order  to  remove  the  stringiness. 

Use  a  double  boiler  for  milk. 
Milk.  Milk  is  scalded  when  the  water  in  the  lower  pan 

boils. 

A  pinch  of  bi-carbonate  of  soda  mixed  with  tomato 
before  milk  or  cream  is  added  prevents  the  milk  from 
curdling. 

With  sour  milk,  or  molasses,  use  soda  instead  of 
baking  powder. 
Butter.         Milk  and  butter  should  be  kept  in  closely  covered 
vessels,  as  they  readily  absorb  flavor  and  odor  from 
other  articles. 

Butter  added  slowly  in  small  bits  to  creamy  mix- 
tures, or  sauces,  prevents  a  greasy  line  forming. 
Crumbe.        Crumbs  grated  directly  from  the  loaf  give  a  more 
delicate  color  than  dried  crumbs  to  fried  articles. 

Dried  crumbs  absorb  more  moisture,  and  are  better 
for  watery  dishes. 

Crumbs  spread  over  the  tops  of  dishes  should  be 
mixed  evenly  with  melted  butter  over  the  fire;  this 


THINGS  TO  REMEMBER 


59 


Meats. 


is  a  better  method  than  having  lumps  of  butter  dotted 
over  the  crumbs  after  they  are  spread. 

When  the  sauce  bubbles  through  the  crumbs  on 
top  of  a  scallop  dish,  the  cooking  is  completed. 

Meat  should  not  be  washed.  It  can  be  cleaned  by 
rubbing  with  a  wet  cloth,  or  by  scraping  with  a  knife. 

Drippings  are  better  than  water  for  basting  meats. 

Meats  should  not  be  pierced  while  cooking. 

Soak  salt  fish  with  the  skin  side  up  over  night. 
Change  the  water  several  times. 

To  skim  sauces,  draw  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of 
the  fire,  throw  in  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  cold  water,  and  the 
grease  will  rise  so  that  it  can  be  easily  taken  off. 

A  few  drops  of  onion  juice  improve  made-over 
meat  dishes ;  not  enough  need  be  used  to  give  a  pro- 
nounced onion  flavor. 

The  skimming  from  soups,  drippings  from  any  beef   Drippings, 
roasts,  and  trimmings  from  any  beef,  serve  the  same 
uses  as  lard,  cottolene,  or  butter. 

To  extract  onion  juice,  press  the  raw  surface  of  an 
onion  against  a  grater,  move  it  slightly,  and  the  juice 
will  run  off  the  point  of  the  grater. 

Chop  suet  in  a  cool  place,  and  sprinkle  it  with  flour 
to  prevent  its  oiling  and  sticking  together.  Remove 
the  membrane  before  chopping  it. 

Add  a  few  drops  of  rose-water  to  almonds  to  pre- 
vent their  oiling  when  chopped  or  pounded. 

To  loosen  grated  peel,  or  other  articles,  from  the 
grater,  strike  the  grater  sharply  on  the  table. 

When  mixing  a  liquid  with  a  solid  material,  add 
but  little  liquid  at  a  time  and  stir  constantly  to  pre- 
vent lumping. 

When  adding  cornstarch,  arrowroot,  or  any  starchy 
material  to  hot  liquid,  first  mix  it  with  enough  cold 
water,  or  milk,  to  make  it  fluid;  pour  it  in  slowly 
and  stir  constantly  until  it  becomes  clear. 


Onion 
Juice. 


Chopping 
Suet. 


Chopping 
or  Pound' 
ing  Al- 
monds. 


MlTl'tlg 


60 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


Gelatine.  Soak  gelatine  in  a  cool  place  for  an  horn*  in  cold 
water  or  milk.  It  will  then  quickly  dissolve  in  hot 
liquid  and  have  no  odor.  If  jellied  dishes  do  not 
stiffen,  add  more  gelatine ;  boiling  down  will  not  effect 
the  purpose. 
Xolda.  Grease  molds  evenly  with  butter  or  oil,  using  a 
brush.  Lumps  of  butter  on  the  side  of  molds  leave 
an  uneven  surface  on  the  article  cooked  or  molded  in 
them.    Molds  for  jellies  are  not  greased. 

Invert  a  dish  over  a  mold  before  turning  it,  so 
that  the  form  will  not  break ;  also,  place  it  in  exactly 
the  right  spot  before  lifting  off  the  mold. 

It  is  desirable  to  pass  all  liquid  mixtures  through  a 
strainer  to  make  them  perfectly  smooth. 

To  keep  dishes  warm  until  time  of  serving,  place 
the  saucepan  in  a  pan  of  hot  water, 
navormg.  Any  flavoring  is  added  after  the  mixture  is  cooked, 
excepting  for  baked  dishes.  Wine  increases  the  taste 
of  salt,  therefore,  where  wine  is  used  for  flavoring, 
very  little  salt  should  be  put  in  until  after  the  wine 
is  used,  when  more  can  be  added  if  necessary. 

Dishes  which  are  to  be  frozen  need  an  extra  amount 
of  sweetening. 
BaiaiM.        Flour  raisins  before  adding  them  to  a  mixture  in 

order  to  prevent  their  settling  to  the  bottom. 
Baking.         Never  slam  the  oven  door,  or  jar  any  rising  material 
while  it  is  baking. 

Anything  being  cooked  for  the  second  time  needs  a 
hot  oven. 


strainers. 

To  keep 
Dishes 
Warm. 


CARE  OF  UTENSILS 

A  VERY  essential  thing  in  doing  nice  cooking  is  to 
have  clean  utensils.  The  pans  of  a  careless  cook  are 
encrusted  outside  and  frequently  inside  with  dry,  hard 
grease,  which  ordinary  washing  wiU  not  remove ;  the 
broilers  are  black  with  burned  grease,  and  the  ovens 
are  in  the  same  state.  If  one  sees  this  condition  of 
things,  or  finds  a  woman  putting  a  saucepan  on  the 
hot  coals,  one  needs  no  further  commentary  on  her 
work.  The  saying  "You  can  judge  a  workman  by 
his  tools "  is  very  true  in  this  case.  No  good  cook 
will  abuse  her  utensils,  or  expect  to  get  well-flavored 
sauces  from  saucepans  which  are  not  immaculately 
clean.  To  keep  utensils  clean,  it  is  necessary  to  wash 
them  thoroughly,  after  they  are  used,  with  soda  to 
cut  the  grease,  and  with  sapolio  to  scour  off  any 
blackened  spots.  Sand  or  ashes  may  be  used  on  the 
outside  of  iron  pots.  The  outside  as  well  as  the  in- 
side of  every  utensil  should  be  clean,  and  never  be  al- 
lowed to  approach  that  state  where  only  scraping  will 
clean  them.  When  utensils  do  reach  that  unwhole- 
some condition,  the  coat  of  burned  and  blackened 
grease  can  be  removed  only  by  boiling  in  a  strong 
solution  of  sal  soda  for  an  hour  or  more,  using  a  large 
boiler  which  will  hold  enough  water  to  entirely  cover 
them.  After  the  grease  is  softened,  it  can  be  scraped 
off,  the  articles  then  scoured  with  sand,  ashes,  or  sa- 
polio.* This  is  a  good  day's  work  for  a  charwoman, 
which  will  change  the  aspect  of  things  in  the  kitchen, 

*  It  can  also  be  easily  removed  by  soaking  in  a  solution  of  Babbitt's 
lye  — one  tablespoonful  to  seyeral  gallons  of  water.—  M.  R. 

61 


62 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


Tins, 
Sieves, 
Wooden- 
ware. 


Arrange-. 

ment  of 

Utensils  in 

Closet 


Sapply- 
doset 


Befriger- 
ator. 


and  may  awaken  a  pride  for  cleanliness  where  it  has 
not  before  existed. 

Tins  should  be  well  dried  before  being  put  away,  or 
they  will  rust.  Sieves  should  not  be  washed  with 
soap,  but  cleaned  with  a  brush,  using  soda  if  neces- 
sary. Wooden  ware  should  not  be  put  near  the  fire 
to  dry,  or  it  will  warp  or  crack. 

An  orderly  arrangement  of  utensils  in  the  kitchen 
closet  wiU  greatly  facilitate  quick  work.  Everything 
of  the  same  class  should  be  in  the  same  group :  Sauce- 
pans and  gridirons  hung  on  hooks,  measuring-cups, 
iron  spoons,  and  strainers  also  hung  in  a  place  very 
convenient  to  hand.  Molds  and  baking  tins  should 
be  placed  where  they  will  not  get  bent  or  jammed. 
Practise  strictly  the  system  of  a  place  for  everything 
and  everything  in  its  place. 

Order  in  the  supply-closet  is  also  necessary.  Have 
a  number  of  tin  boxes,  and  of  glass  preserve-jars  of 
different  sizes,  to  hold  everything  large  and  small  in 
the  way  of  food  supplies.  Stand  them  in  rows,  each  one 
plainly  labeled,  that  no  time  may  be  lost  in  searching 
for  the  article  needed.  The  cost  of  these  receptacles  is 
small,  while  their  use  is  not  only  a  great  convenience, 
but  also  a  protection  from  dust  and  insects.  A  closet 
so  kept  is  also  easily  supervised.  In  every  large  and 
well-ordered  kitchen  perfect  order  and  system  prevail. 
Were  it  not  so,  a  hopeless  confusion  would  soon  ensue. 
In  small  households  the  same  nicety  can  be  the  rule, 
and  if  the  mistress  makes  a  weekly  inspection,  order 
will  soon  become  a  tradition  of  the  household,  and  be 
maintained  without  demur.  The  refrigerator  must 
be  kept  scrupulously  clean  and  dry  to  insure  whole- 
some food,  and  its  waste-pipe  kept  freely  open.  This 
should  not  be  connected  directly  with  the  general 
waste-pipe  of  the  house.  Cases  of  diphtheria  have 
been  directly  traced  to  this  cause.    There  should  be 


CAEE  OP  UTENSILS  68 

a  free  use  of  soda  in  washing  out  the  refrigerator  to 
keep  it  free  from  taint.  As  butter  and  milk  readily 
absorb  the  flavors  of  other  articles  they  should  be  kept 
by  themselves,  or  with  only  the  eggs,  in  the  small 
compartment.  Lemons  or  other  fruit  are  particularly 
to  be  excluded.  Fish  may  be  laid  directly  on  ice,  the 
skin  side  down;  but  beefsteaks  or  other  uncooked 
meats  lose  flavor  if  placed  in  direct  contact  with  ice.    ^^^  ^^^ 

Proper  care  of  the  range  and  intelligent  use  of  the  Bange. 
coal  are  also  essential  factors  of  success  in  cooking. 
If  the  drafts  are  left  open  too  long,  the  greatest 
heat  is  often  lost  before  cooking  begins.  If  they  are 
closed  the  moment  the  coal  is  kindled,  the  heat  will 
remain  steady  for  a  long  time.  When  the  coals  look 
whitish,  they  are  becoming  exhausted  and  beginning 
to  fall  to  ashes,  and  this  condition  arrives  quickly  when 
rapid  combustion  takes  place  from  open  draughts. 
Piling  the  coal  above  the  level  of  the  fire-box  is  an- 
other error  generally  practised  by  ignorant  cooks. 
The  heat  does  not  increase  from  the  depth  of  coal, 
but  from  the  breadth  of  surface.  Piling  up  the  coal, 
in  a  mound  which  nearly  touches  the  top  of  the  range, 
results  in  heating  the  iron  red-hot,  warping  the  lids 
out  of  shape,  destroying  the  saucepans,  and  very 
likelr  burning  the  food.  No  articles  cooked  on  top 
of  the  range  require  excessive  heat,  and  are  usually 
spoiled  by  too  rapid  cooking. 

When  the  ovens  do  not  bake  on  the  bottom  or  on  Ovens 
the  top,  it  means  a  layer  of  ashes  shuts  off  the  heat. 
The  ashes  are  easily  removed  from  the  top,  but  to  lift 
the  plate  from  the  bottom  of  the  oven  and  clean  it 
out  requires  a  cold  range,  so  this  is  often  neglected 
or  not  understood,  while  the  cook  wonders  why  the 
bread  will  not  bake  on  the  bottom,  and  why  the  cake 
is  spoiled. 


PART  n 
EECEIPTS 


Chapter  I 
METHODS  OF  COOKING  EXPLAINED 

BOILING 

There  is  an  erroneous  impression  that  articles  cook 
faster  when  the  water  is  boiling  violently,  but  this  is 
not  the  case ;  the  ebullition  is  caused  by  the  escaping 
steam,  which  is  lost  heat,  and  the  water  at  this  time  is 
at  212°  (except  in  high  elevations),  however  fast  or 
slow  it  may  be  boiling.  If,  however,  a  little  sugar  or 
salt  is  added  to  the  water  it  increases  its  density,  and 
the  heat  rises  to  224°  before  the  steam  escapes.  The 
heat  can  be  raised  also  by  covering  the  pot  and  confin- 
ing as  much  of  the  steam  as  possible.  Where  violent- 
ly boiling  water  is  recommended,  as  for  rice  and  green 
peas,  the  object  is  not  greater  heat,  but  to  keep  the 
grains  and  peas  separated  by  the  turbulence  of  the 
water.  There  is  waste  of  fuel  in  unnecessarily  fast 
boiling,  and  economy  can  be  easily  practised  here,  es- 
pecially where  gas  is  used,  as  the  boiling  point,  once 
reached,  can  be  maintained  with  but  little  heat. 
Where  the  juices  and  color  are  to  be  retained,  the 
articles  are  put  into  already  boiling  salted  water. 
The  albumen  on  the  surface  is  then  at  once  coagulated 
and  the  juices  shut  in.  Where  the  object  is  to  extract 
the  juices,  as  for  soups,  they  must  be  cut  into  pieces 
so  as  to  expose  more  surface,  and  put  into  cold  water, 
and  the  heat  of  the  water  gradually  raised  to  the  sim- 

67 


68  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

mering  point  only.  The  slow,  long  cooking  obtained 
in  simmering  water  best  destroys  the  fiber  of  meat, 
and  tough  pieces  cooked  in  this  way  are  made  tender. 

Simmering.  To  render  tough  pieces  tender,  the  meat  is  first  put 
into  boiling  water  in  order  to  fix  the  albumen  on  the 
surface,  the  heat  then  reduced,  and  the  cooking  done 
at  the  simmering  point,  which  is  185°.  Hence,  water 
at  different  stages  of  heat  is  used,  according  to  the  ob- 
ject in  view,  and  the  result  is  as  definite  as  that  of  the 
different  degrees  of  heat  in  an  oven,  so  this  point 
should  not  be  considered  as  of  little  importance. 

The  flavor  of  meats  and  vegetables  is  volatile,  and 
much  of  it  can  be  carried  off  by  escaping  steam,  as  is 
demonstrated  by  the  odors  which  sometimes  pervade 
the  house.  To  prevent  the  latter,  and  also  to  make 
the  article  tender  and  retain  all  its  flavor,  the  pot 
should  be  covered  and  the  water  kept  at  the  simmer- 
ing point  only. 

Vegetables.  An  exception  to  this  rule  is  made  in  the  cases  of 
cabbage  and  cauliflower.  These  strong-flavored  vege- 
tables will  be  much  less  objectionable  when  cooked  in 
rapidly  boiling  water  in  open  vessels  (see  page  212). 
Green  vegetables  should  be  boiled  in  open  vessels,  as 
Meat  high  heat  destroys  their  color.  All  meats  should  be  well 
tied  and  skewered,  to  keep  them  in  good  shape  while 
boiling,  and,  when  possible,  be  placed  with  the  bone  side 
up,  so  if  any  scum  settles  it  will  not  spoil  4he  appear- 
ance of  the  dish.  For  fish  a  little  vinegar  should  be 
FUH.  put  into  the  water,  as  it  hardens  the  meat  and  helps  to 
prevent  its  falling  apart  (see  page  113). 

Salt  water  is  used  where  the  object  is  to  keep  the 
flavors  in,  fresh  water  where  it  is  to  draw  them  out 
as  in  soup,  where  the  salt  is  not  added  until  the  cook- 
ing is  completed.  The  rule  of  not  piercing  meat, 
thus  letting  out  its  juices,  applies  to  boiling  as  well  as 
to  other  methods  of  cooking.    Fifteen  minutes  to  the 


METHODS  OF  COOKING  EXPLAINED  69 

pound  is  the  rule  for  mutton  or  tender  meat,  a  much 
longer  or  indefinite  time  for  tough  meat. 

Ham  is  done  when  the  skin  peels  off  easily. 

The  scum  should  be  taken  off  the  pot  when  boiling 
meat. 

Milk  boils  at  196°  and  easily  burns,  therefore  it  is 
safer  to  use  a  double  boiler  for  anything  containing 
milk.  When  using  a  double  boiler,  the  liquid  in  the 
inner  pan  is  scalded  when  the  water  in  the  outside 
vessel  boils. 

BAKING 

The  baking  of  many  articles  is  a  more  important 
matter  than  the  mixing.  There  are  no  definite  tests 
for  ovens,  therefore  one  has  to  learn  by  experience 
and  careful  watching  the  capabilities  or  faults  of  the 
ovens  used.  A  common  trouble  is  from  not  having 
them  thoroughly  cleaned  of  the  ashes  which  settle  un- 
der the  ovens  and  prevent  the  heat  reaching  the  bottom 
part.  It  is  usual  to  have  them  hotter  on  the  fire  side. 
In  this  case  it  is  necessary  to  turn  frequently  the 
articles  being  baked,  or,  where  this  cannot  be  done, 
to  interpose  a  screen  to  protect  them  from  burning. 
Asbestos  paper,  which  is  now  sold  at  very  low  cost  at  Asbestos 
house-furnishing  stores,  is  a  conveuient  thing  to  place  P^P^r. 
against  the  side  of  the  oven,  or  on  the  shelf  of  the 
oven  if  the  excessive  heat  is  on  top.  A  tin,  or  a 
piece  of  brown  paper,  will,  however,  ordinarily  serve 
the  purpose.  Directions  for  baking  bread  and  cake 
are  given  at  the  heads  of  those  chapters. 

To  lower  the  heat  of  an  oven,  if  closing  the  damper 
is  not  sufficient,  open  the  lid  of  the  range  over  the 
oven  a  little  way.  Sometimes  a  pan  of  cold  water  put 
on  the  she]f  of  the  oven  will  effect  the  purpose. 
When  baking  meats,  the  oven  should  be  very  hot  at 
first,  and  after  the  meat  is  seared  the  heat  should  be 
lowered,  so  the  cooking  will  be  done  slowly. 


70  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

BOASTING 

Roasting  is  done  before  the  fire,  and  should  not 
be  confused  with  baking,  which  is  done  in  the  oven. 
Roasted  meats  have  a  distinctly  better  flavor  than 
baked  ones.  The  latter  are  likely  to  taste  of  smoke 
unless  the  oven  is  frequently  opened  for  basting,  as 
few  of  them  are  sufficiently  ventilated  to  free  them  of 
smoke  and  steam.  Baking  is  the  method  generally 
employed  in  small  households,  but  where  the  grate  of 
the  range  is  sufficiently  large,  and  the  front  can  be  ex- 
posed, it  will  be  found  no  more  trouble  to  roast  than 
to  bake  the  meats,  and  the  improvement  will  well 
repay  the  trouble  of  changing  a  habit.  Tin  ovens 
(Dutch  ovens)  are  made  for  this  use,  with  a  clock- 
work to  turn  the  spit,  so  the  only  care  is  to  baste, 
which  has  to  be  done  in  either  case,  and  to  keep  the 
fire  bright,  which  is  done  by  adding  a  few  coals  at  a 
time  if  necessary. 

The  meat  should  at  first  be  placed  near  the  coals  to 
sear  the  outside,  and  then  be  drawn  back  where  it  will 
cook  at  lower  heat. 

BROILING 

Meat  cooked  by  broiling  is  exposed  to  a  greater 
heat  than  in  any  other  manner  of  cooking,  and 
to  prevent  its  burning,  requires  constant  watching. 
Meats  for  broiling  are  cut  thin,  and  much  surface 
is  exposed,  therefore  they  must  be  at  once  exposed  to 
intense  heat  to  sear  the  surface  and  retain  the  juices. 
Frequent  turning  not  only  prevents  burning,  but 
gives  slower  cooking  and  also  prevents  the  grease 
dripping  into  the  fire,  making  a  smoke  which  destroys 
the  flavor  of  the  meat.  The  rule  for  broiling  is  to 
have  bright  coals  without  flame,  drafts  open  to  carry 
off  smoke,  and  meat  turned  as  often  as  one  counts  ten 


METHODS  OF  COOKING  EXPLAINED  71 

(see  broiling  beefsteak,  page  156).  In  this  way  the 
result  will  be  satisfactory,  the  meat  will  be  puffed 
and  elastic  from  the  confined  steam  of  the  juices, 
will  have  a  seared  crust,  and  the  rest  evenly 
cooked  through  and  of  the  same  color.  When 
the  puffed  appearance  of  broiled  meats  begins  to 
disappear  it  means  the  moisture  is  evaporating 
through  the  crust,  which  will  leave  it  hard  and 
dry. 

Chops  wrapped  tight  in  oiled  paper  before  being 
broiled  are  especially  good  (see  page  166).  The  paper 
will  not  burn  if  turned  as  directed  above. 

Although  broiling  with  a  double  wire-broiler  over 
or  under  bright  coals  is  the  approved  way,  it  can  be 
accomplished  in  a  hot  pan  when  coals  are  not  acces- 
sible. In  this  instance  a  frying-pan  is  heated  very 
hot,  then  rubbed  with  suet  to  prevent  the  meat  from 
sticking,  and  the  meat  is  turned  frequently  as  in  the 
other  method.  This  manner  of  broiling  is  recom- 
mended only  as  an  expedient,  as  hot  iron  does  not 
give  the  same  result  as  hot  coals. 

BKAisme 

Meat  cooked  by  braising  is  shut  in  a  closely-covered 
pot  with  a  few  slices  of  salt  pork  (laid  under  the  meat 
to  prevent  its  sticking  to  the  pot),  a  mixture  of  vege- 
tables, cut  into  dice,  a  little  soup  stock  or  water,  and  a 
bouquet  of  herbs,  and  cooked  slowly  in  the  confined 
steam.  •  This  method  of  cooking  tough  or  dry  meats 
makes  them  tender  and  of  good  flavor.  Braised 
dishes  are  much  esteemed. 

PRICASSEErNG 

Meat  cooked  in  this  way  is  first  saut6d  to  keep  in 
its  juices,  then  stewed  until  tender  and  served  in  a 


72  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

white  or  brown  gravy,  made  from  the  liquor  in  the 
pot  in  which  the  meat  is  stewed.  Toasted  bread  and 
sometimes  dumplings  are  served  with  it.  In  the  lat- 
ter case  it  is  called  a  pot-pie. 


SAUTEING 

A  little  fat  is  put  in  a  shallow  pan ;  when  this  is  hot, 
the  articles  to  be  cooked  are  laid  in  and  browned  on 
both  sides.  This  manner  of  cooking  is  by  many  mis- 
called frying,  and  is  largely  responsible  for  the  disre- 
pute of  frying,  as  sauted  articles  are  likely  to  be  greasy 
and  indigestible. 

FRYING 

Frying  is  cooking  by  immersion  in  very  hot  fat. 
The  success  of  frying  depends  upon  the  fat  being 
sufficiently  hot,  and  enough  fat  being  used  to  com- 
pletely cover  the  articles  cooked  in  it.  A  kettle  for  fry- 
ing should  be  kept  for  that  purpose  alone,  and  started 
with  enough  fat  to  fill  it  two  thirds  full.  Olive-oil, 
lard,  cottolene,  drippings,  or  any  mixture  of  them, 
serve  the  purpose.  When  properly  used  but  little  fat 
is  consumed,  and  the  pot  can  be  easily  replenished 
with  the  right  quantity  for  its  next  use.  Each  time, 
after  using  the  fat,  a  slice  of  raw  potato  should  be 
dropped  in  to  clarify  it ;  it  should  then  be  strained 
through  a  cloth  and  returned  to  the  pot,  be  covered 
when  cold,  and  set  away  until  again  wanted.  This 
fat  can  be  used  for  potatoes,  and  anything  which  is 
coated  with  egg  and  crumbs.  If  fish  without  this 
coating  are  fried  in  it,  it  will  then  be  unsuitable  for 
other  purposes.  A  pot  of  fat  wiU  with  care  last  for 
months,  but  should  be  clarified  as  often  as  necessary 
Heating  (gee  below).  When  the  fat  is  to  be  used,  the  frying- 
the  fat-      tottle  should  be  placed  on  the  range  an  hour  before 


METHODS  OF  COOKING  EXPLAINED  73 

the  time  it  is  needed.    It  will  then  become  gradually 
hot,  and  at  the  right  moment  can  be  quickly  raised  to 
the  smoking  heat  needed  for  frying.    It  takes  some 
time  for  fat  to  reach  this  temperature;  and  if  this 
preparatory  measure  is  not  taken,  a  cook,  when  hur- 
ried, is  likely  to  use  it  before  the  right  heat  is  attained, 
or  to  place  it  on  the  open  fire,  which  is  attended  with 
great  danger.     Many  persons  are  seriously  burned 
from  this  imprudence.    When  fat  boils  over  and  takes 
fire,  the  best  extinguisher  is  ashes.    If  the  cook's    To  extin- 
clothes  take  fire,  the  best  thing  to  do  is  to  wrap  the   gtii«h  fire 
skirts  together  and  roll  on  the  floor  until  assistance      ^^ 
comes.    With  ordinary  care  there  need  be  no  acci-     ^re**®* 
dents.    Dropping  grease  on  the  range  or  clothes  can 
be  avoided  by  holding  a  tin  plate  under  the  frying- 
basket  when  removing  it  from  the  kettle.    When  the 
articles  to  be  fried  are  prepared,  the  wire  basket  should 
be  dipped  into  the  fat  to  grease  it,  the  articles  laid  in, 
a  few  at  a  time,  without  touching  one  another,  the 
basket  hung  on  an  iron  or  wooden  spoon,  and  slowly 
lowered  into  the  fat.    Too  many  articles  must  not  be 
put  in  at  the  same  time,  or  the  heat  of  the  fat  will  be 
too  much  reduced.    Spattering  is  caused  by  water  con-  Spattering, 
tained  in  the  articles  being  turned  to  steam  and  throw- 
ing out  the  fat ;  hence,  one  reason  for  making  them 
very  dry  and  of  lowering  them  gradually  into  the  fat. 
When  fat  is  sufficiently  hot  it  at  once  sears  the  outside 
of  everything  placed  in  it,  and  forms  a  crust  through 
which  the  grease  cannot  penetrate  and  be  absorbed 
by  the  food.    Egg  and  crumbs  are  used  for  the  pur- 
pose of  thus  encrusting  the  outside  of  made  dishes, 
like  croquettes.    The  mistake  should  not  be  made  of 
leaving  articles  too  long  in  the  fat;  a  lemon  color,     Color  of 
which  is  the  one  desired,  is  quickly  attained.    When     ^"®^  *'' 
lifted  from  the  fat,  the  basket  should  be  held  for  a      ^^^^ 
few  minutes,  or  until  through  dripping,  over  the  ket- 


74  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

tie,  which  is  the  hottest  place  to  be  found,  the  articles 
then  placed  on  a  brown  paper  without  touching  one 
another,  and  set  in  the  open  oven,  or  on  the  hot  shelf, 
until  perfectly  dry.  If  so  treated  the  grease  wiU 
evaporate,  and  the  articles  become  so  free  from  it  as 
not  to  leave  a  mark  on  the  napkin  on  which  they  are 
served.  Articles  properly  prepared  and  fried  in  this 
manner  can  be  rjo  more  unwholesome  than  meat  which 
is  basted  with  drippings.  The  fat  should  be  given 
time  to  again  rise  to  the  smoking  heat  before  a  second 
basketful  of  articles  is  immersed.  "When  frying  ar- 
ticles which  take  a  little  time  to  cook,  the  pot  should 
be  drawn  to  a  cooler  part  of  the  range,  after  the  first 
few  minutes.  The  coating  will  then  be  formed,  and 
the  cooking  can  proceed  more  slowly,  and  the  articles 
will  not  brown  too  much  before  they  are  cooked. 
Croquettes,  being  made  of  cooked  meat,  need  to  re- 
main in  the  fat  only  long  enough  to  color  and  become 
heated. 

TO  CLARIPY  FAT 

When  fat  becomes  discolored  and  unfit  for  use,  stir 
into  it  when  melted  one  half  teaspoonful  of  baking 
soda  and  a  quart  of  water.  Let  it  boil  for  a  little 
time,  take  off  the  scum  that  rises,  and  set  the  pot 
aside  until  cold.  Remove  the  cake  of  grease,  scrape 
off  all  the  impurities,  put  it  again  on  the  fire,  where 
it  will  melt  but  will  not  be  agitated,  and  let  it  re- 
main undisturbed  until  all  the  water  has  evaporated 
and  the  remaining  impurities  have  settled  to  the  bot- 
Bubbling  tom ;  then  pour  off  the  clear  grease.  When  fat  bub- 
bles it  means  there  is  water  in  it,  not  that  it  is  hot. 

TO  TRY  OUT  SUET  AND  OTHER  FATS 

Cut  the  fat  into  pieces,  place  it  in  a  shallow  pan 
over  moderate  heat  until  the  fat  is  melted,  then  strain 


METHODS  OF  COOKING  EXPLAINED  75 

it  through  a  cloth.  There  will  be  no  odor  from  the 
fat  if  not  placed  where  it  becomes  too  hot.  All  kinds 
of  fats  are  good  for  frying  except  mutton  fat,  turkey 
fat,  and  fat  from  smoked  meats;  these  can  be  used 
for  making  soap,  as  directed  on  page  259. 

TO  PREPARE  ARTICLES  FOR  FRYING  BY  COVERINQ 
THEM  WITH  EGG  AND  CRUMBS 

All  scraps  of  bread  should  be  saved  for  crumbs,  n_^i^ 
as  directed  on  page  51,  the  crusts  being  separated 
from  the  white  part,  then  dried,  rolled,  and  sifted. 
The  brown  crumbs  are  good  for  the  first  coating,  the 
white  ones  for  the  outside,  as  they  give  better  color. 
Where  a  very  delicate  color  is  wanted,  bread  grated 
from  a  stale  loaf  or  rubbed  through  a  coarse  sieve 
gives  better  results;  the  fresh  crumbs  need  not  be 
very  fine.  Cracker  crumbs  give  a  smooth  surface 
and  are  better  for  oysters  than  bread  crumbs,  but  for 
most  things  bread  crumbs  are  preferable.  For  meats 
a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  for  sweet  articles  a  little 
sugar,  should  be  mixed  with  the  crumbs.  Crumbs  left 
on  the  board  should  be  dried,  sifted,  and  kept  to  be 
used  again. 

The  whole  egg  is  generally  used.  The  white  alone  The  Egg. 
will  serve,  but  not  the  yolk  alone,  as  it  is  the  albumen 
which  is  needed.  The  albumen  quickly  coagulates 
when  put  into  the  hot  fat,  and  forms  a  coating  through 
which  the  grease  will  not  penetrate.  To  one  egg  is 
added  one  tablespoonful  of  water,  "so  as  to  make  it 
thin  enough  to  run  and  remove  the  stringiness  of  the 
egg ;  these  are  beaten  lightly  together,  but  should  not 
be  foamy,  as  bubbles  break  and  leave  holes  for  the 
grease  to  enter.  Where  delicate  color  is  wanted, 
it  is  better  to  use  the  white  of  the  egg  only  and 
fresh  crumbs.  Turn  the  crumbs  on  to  a  board ;  roll 
the  articles  first  in  the  crumbs  to  dry  them  well,  then 


7« 


THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 


Holding. 


Cutting 
lardoons. 


place  tliem  in  the  beaten  egg  one  at  a  time,  and 
with  a  spoon  pour  the  egg  over  and  moisten  them 
thoroughly ;  return  them  to  the  board,  and  completely 
cover  them  with  crumbs.  Soft,  creamy  mixtures  like 
croquettes  require  delicate  handling,  and  are  easier 
to  manage  if  first  made  into  a  ball, —  molding  them 
into  shape  being  left  until  the  second  crumbing,  at 
which  time  they  can  be  rolled  into  cylindrical  form 
and  the  ends  flattened  by  dropping  them  lightly  on 
the  board.  They  will  keep  their  shape  better  if,  after 
being  prepared,  they  are  allowed  to  stand  an  hour  or 
more  before  being  fried.     (See  croquettes,  page  293.) 

LARDINa 

Larding  is  simply  drawing  small  pieces  of  salt 
pork  through  the  surface  of  meat.  It  is  easily  done, 
and  so  much  improves  lean,  dry  pieces  of  meat  as  to 
well  repay  the  trouble.  The  pork  for  larding  is  best 
cut  lengthwise  with  the  rind,  and  that  nearest  the 
rind  is  the  firmest.  Cut  it  into  slices,  one  quarter 
inch  thick,  and  then  into  strips  one  quarter  inch  wide 
and  two  inches  long.  The  lardoons  can  be  made 
firmer  by  placing  them  on  ice,  but  ordinarily  this  is 
not  necessary.  The  larding  needle  holding  a  lardoon 
is  pressed  through  the  surface  of  the  meat,  taking  a 
stitch  about  a  quarter  inch  deep  and  an  inch  long, 
then  drawn  through,  leaving  the  lardoon  projecting 
on  both  sides.  The  stitches  should  be  taken  at  regu- 
lar intervals,  so  as  to  appear  ornamental,  and  when 
all  the  lardoons  are  in  they  should  be  cut  even.  For 
birds  or  small  pieces,  the  lardoons  would  of  course  be 
cut  of  a  size  to  suit  the  needle  used. 


DAUBING 


Daubing  is  cutting  through  the  entire  thickness  of 
the  meat  in  several  places  and  inserting  lardoons  of 
salt  pork.     The  cut  is  made  with  a  thin,  sharp  knife. 


|H 

m 

m7 

^^ 

"1 

1 

^H 

■ 

TV 

\ 

1 

HI 

■ 

1^ 

J 

I 

:■ .«».-  —j-——"^ 

^^^' 

-OJaJPi      ^^^1 

BM^^^t^ 

:>^MB 

^ 

M 

1 

1 

L-_„.^ 

m 

i^^y 

■ 

1.  Frying  Kettle. 

2.  Wire  Basket  and  Iron  Spoon  for  lifting  the  Frying  Basket. 


(See  page  72.) 


1.  i'lECK  OF  MEAT  LAKDKD.   2.  LARDING  NEEDLES.  3.  LARDOON8. 


MEASURING  CUP  AND  SPOONS. 

1.  Tin  raeasiu'ing  cnp  liolding  one  lialf-pint. 

2.  Spoonful  of  salt,  pepper  or  spices.      3.    One  lialf  spoonful. 

4.    Spoonful  of  flour,  sugar,  or  butter.     5.    Heaping  spoonful.    (See  page  77.) 


METHODS  OF  COOKINO  EXPLAINED  77 

BONING 
Cutting  the  meat  free  from  the  bones,  leaving  the 
meat  whole,  is  called  boning.  This  is  easily  done  with 
a  sharp-pointed  knife,  and  requires  but  little  practice 
to  accomplish  successfully.  Directions  for  boning  Fowls, 
fowls  are  given  on  page  181.  Boned  fowls  are  usually 
made  into  galantine,  but  they  are  also  good  when 
stuffed  and  pressed  into  natural  shape,  or  to  imitate  a 
duck  or  a  rabbit  and  served  hot.  The  butcher  will  Meats, 
remove  the  bones  from  joints  of  meat  when  requested. 
Boned  meats  make  an  agreeable  change,  and  in  the 
case  of  shoulder  pieces  make  them  suitable  to  serve 
as  roasts  (see  pages  163  and  168).  Chops  with  the 
bones  removed,  the  tail  ends  wrapped  around  the  meat 
and  secured  with  wooden  toothpicks  or  with  small 
skewers  until  cooked,  resemble  in  form  filets  mignons. 

MEASURING 

Exact  measurements  are  an  important  factor  in  the 

success  of  cooking,  therefore  a  definite  understanding 

of  what  a  cupful  or  a  spoonful  means  is  requisite.    A  „ 

^  ^  ,  ,  ^  Measunng- 

cupful  means  one  half  pint.  A  tin  cup  holding  this  cup. 
amount  is  as  necessary  as  a  quart  measure  in  every 
kitchen.  They  can  be  bought  for  ten  cents  apiece 
in  any  house-furnishing  store.  A  spoonful  of  butter, 
lard,  sugar,  or  flour  means  a  rounding  spoonful,  as 
much  rising  above  the  spoon  as  is  held  in  the  bowl. 
A  spoonful  of  salt  or  spices  means  only  as  much  as 
the  bowl  holds,  the  top  being  smoothed  off  with 
a  knife.*  One  half  spoonful  means  the  half  of  the 
contents  of  the  bowl  divided  lengthwise.  A  heaping 
spoonful  means  as  much  as  the  spoon  can  be  made 
to  hold.  A  table  giving  comparative  weights  and 
measures  is  given  on  page  387. 

*  CooMng  schools  have  recently  adopted  the  rule  of  using  even 
spoonfuls  for  every  spoon  measurement.  This  ensures  great  exact- 
ness.—M.  B. 


78  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

STIRRING  AND  BEATING 

These  two  methods  should  not  be  confused.  The 
object  of  stirring  is  to  mix  the  materials.  The  spoon 
is  held  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  the  materials 
rubbed  and  pressed  together  as  much  as  possible. 
It  is  not  essential  to  always  stir  one  way.  The  object 
of  beating  is  to  get  air  into  the  mixture  to  make  it 
lighter,  which  is  done  by  continuously  lifting  it  up  in 
the  same  way;  therefore  a  beaten  mixture  must  not 
be  stirred,  or  the  imprisoned  bubbles  of  air  will  be 
broken  and  the  result  of  the  beating  lost. 

HOW  TO  STONE  OLIVES 

With  a  sharp-pointed  knife  cut  through  the  olive 
to  the  stone  on  the  blossom  end  and  pare  off  the  meat, 
turning  the  olive  around  three  times,  keeping  the 
knife  at  not  too  sharp  an  angle  close  to  the  stone. 
The  meat  will  then  be  in  one  curled  piece,  which  can 
be  pressed  into  its  original  shape  again. 

HOW  TO  CUT  BACON 

Place  the  bacon  on  a  board  with  the  rind  down. 
With  a  very  sharp  knife  slice  the  bacon  very  thin 
down  to  the  rind,  but  do  not  try  to  cut  through  it. 
When  enough  slices  are  cut,  run  the  knife  under, 
keeping  it  close  to  the  rind,  and  the  slices  will  be  free. 

HOW  TO  EXTRACT  ONION  JUICE 

Cut  an  onion  across  and  press  it  against  a  coarse 
grater,  rao\dng  it  a  very  little ;  the  juice  will  then  run 
off  the  point  of  the  grater. 

CARAMEL 

Caramel  is  used  to  color  soup,  gravies,  etc.,  and 
serves  also  as  a  flavoring  for  desserts.    It  must  be 


METHODS  OF  COOKINQ  EXPLAINED  79 

used  with  care  for  coloring,  as  it  also  sweetens.  The 
flavor  of  caramel  depends  upon  the  degree  to  which 
the  sugar  is  cooked  before  the  water  is  added.  It 
grows  stronger  as  it  becomes  browner. 

Put  one  half  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and  two 
tablepoonfuls  of  water  into  a  granite-ware  saucepan, 
stii'  until  the  sugar  has  melted,  then  let  it  cook  with- 
out stirring  until  it  has  turned  dark  brown,  but  not 
black,  then  add  one  half  cupful  of  hot  water,  and  let 
it  simmer  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and  cooked  to 
a  thin  syrup. 

TO  MAKE  EOUX 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  into  a  saucepan. 
"When  it  bubbles  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and 
let  them  cook  together  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  all 
the  time.  If  it  is  to  be  used  as  thickening  for  a 
white  sauce  or  soup,  do  not  let  it  color.  If  for  brown 
soup  or  sauce,  let  it  become  brown.  This  amount  is 
sufiicient  to  thicken  one  cupful  of  milk  or  of  stock,  to 
make  a  sauce,  or  to  thicken  one  pint  or  more  of  soup. 

Roux  can  be  prepared  and  kept  in  jars  ready  for 
use.  The  proportion  of  equal  quantities  of  butter 
and  flour  is  usually  taken,  and  is  the  rule,  but  in  some 
cases  double  the  flour  is  used.  The  flour  cooked  in 
this  way  gives  a  better  result  than  when  rubbed  with 
the  butter  and  stirred  into  the  liquid.  Cooking  flour 
in  hot  fat  seems  to  more  surely  burst  the  starch- 
grains,  which  removes  the  raw  taste  it  is  likely  to 
have  if  cooked  only  in  the  boiling  liquid. 

TO  MARINATE 

Make  a  mixture  in  the  proportion  of  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar  to  two  of  oil,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  bay- 
leaf,  one  teaspoonful  onion  juice,   and  a  sprig  of 


80 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


parsley.  Put  it  on  a  flat  dish  and  lay  any  cooked 
or  raw  meat  in  the  marinade  for  an  hour  or  more  be- 
fore using,  turning  the  pieces  often.  Enough  flavor 
is  absorbed  to  much  improve  meats  or  fish  to  be  used 
for  salads,  fish  to  be  fried  or  boiled,  and  other  cases 
given  in  receipts.  The  onion  juice  may  be  omitted  if 
desired. 

SALPICON 

A  salpicon  is  a  mixture  of  cooked  meats,  which 
are  cut  into  dice  and  combined  with  a  sauce,  mush- 
rooms, and  truffles.  Chicken,  sweetbreads,  and  tongue 
mixed  with  mushrooms  and  truffles  and  moistened 
with  a  Bechamel  sauce,  is  a  combination  often  used. 
Salpicon  is  used  in  timbales,  patties,  and  vol-au-vent. 
A  mixture  of  fruits  seasoned  with  sugar  and  wine 
is  also  called  a  salpicon. 


Condi- 
ments. 


Almonds. 


Orange 
peel. 


SEASONING  AND  FLAVORING. 

The  savoriness  of  a  dish  can  often  be  much  en- 
hanced by  adding  a  few  drops  of  Worcestershire 
sauce,  of  mushroom  or  tomato  catsup,  of  kitchen 
bouquet,  by  a  few  celery  seeds,  a  bay-leaf,  or  a  sprig 
of  some  dried  herb.  A  little  tarragon  vinegar  or  a 
few  capers  will  often  much  improve  a  salad. 

A  half  dozen  chopped  almonds  will  greatly  improve 
a  bread  pudding  or  any  other  simple  dessert.  A  few 
shreds  of  candied  orange  peel  will  give  a  delicious 
flavor  to  puddings,  sauces,  and  cake. 

A  flavor  of  almonds,  orange-  or  rose-water,  sheiry, 
or  maraschino,  will  be  an  agreeable  change  from  va- 
nilla, and  much  more  wholesome. 

Some  cooks  feel  they  are  called  upon  to  do  fancy 
cooking  if  expected  to  use  a  bay-leaf  or  an  almond ; 
others  feel  a  receipt  is  exti-avagant  or  impracticable  if 
it  calls  for  anything  in  the  line  of  flavors  beyond  salt 


METHODS  OF  COOKING  EXPLAINED  81 

and  pepper,  lemon  juice,  vanilla,  or  raisins ;  but  there 
is  no  more  extravagance  in  using  different  condiments 
than  in  using  always  the  same,  or  those  which  from 
habit  have  established  themselves  in  the  favor  of 
every  housekeeper.  None  of  the  condiments  are  ex- 
pensive, and  so  little  is  used  at  a  time  that  one  bottle- 
ful  lasts  a  long  time.  All  the  flavoring  extracts  are 
the  same  price,  and  the  expense  of  a  few  almonds  is 
only  nominal,  therefore  it  is  a  pity  not  to  have  a  va- 
riety of  such  articles  in  the  dresser,  and  give  variety 
to  dishes  by  at  least  the  very  simple  means  of  chang- 
ing flavors.  A  cottage  pudding  with  a  little  shredded 
orange  peel,  nuts,  or  eocoanut  in  it,  or  with  a  chocolate, 
wine,  or  meringue  sauce,  wiU  be  an  agreeable  change 
from  the  plain  pudding  with  hard  sauce.  The  same 
may  be  said  of  a  corn-starch  or  a  rice  pudding,  of  a 
custard,  and  of  many  other  things. 

CRO^ONS  AND  CROUSTADES 

Croutons  or  crusts  are  used  in  pea,  bean,  and  all 
cream  soups,  for  garnishing  all  kinds  of  stewed 
dishes,  and  for  any  dish  with  which  toast  would  be 
acceptable.  When  cut  large  and  filled  they  are  caUed 
croustades. 

To  make  croiitons  or  croustades,  cut  bread  into  the 
desired  shape  and  saute  the  pieces  in  hot  butter,  or 
dip  them  in  melted  butter  and  toast  them  carefully  in 
the  oven,  turning  frequently,  so  they  will  be  evenly 
colored;  or  they  may  be  fried  in  smoking-hot  fat. 
They  should  be  crisp  and  dry  and  the  color  of  amber. 

They  are  made  of  various  sizes  and  shapes  to  suit 
the  uses  they  are  to  serve.  For  soups  the  bread  is  cut 
into  cubes  one  quarter  inch  square  or  into  fancy  shapes; 
for  garnishing  meat  dishes  they  are  cut  into  diamonds, 
squares,  triangles,  and  circles ;  for  sippets  to  eat  with 


82 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


Triangles. 


Pyramidal 
Pieces. 


boiled  eggs,  into  strips  one  half  ineh  wide  and  four 
inches  long ;  for  poached  eggs,  into  circles  four  inches 
in  diameter. 
For  Soups.  To  make  croiitons  for  soup,  cut  bread  into  slices  one 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  take  off  the  crust,  then  cut 
it  into  strips  one  quarter  of  an  inch  wide  and  then 
across  into  even  squares;  or  with  vegetable  cutters 
cut  the  sliced  bread  into  fancy  shapes. 

For  triangles,  cut  a  slice  of  bread  one  half  inch 
thick,  then  into  strips  one  and  a  quarter  inches  wide, 
then  into  pieces  two  or  three  inches  long,  then  diag- 
onally across. 

For  pyramidal  pieces,  cut  the  bread  into  one  inch 
squares  and  cut  diagonally  across  the  cube.  When 
used  for  garnishing  they  may  be  moistened  a  little  on 
one  side  with  white  of  egg,  and  will  then  stick  to  the 
dish-  sufficiently  to  hold  in  place.  A  circle  of  pyra- 
midal pieces  makes  a  good  border  to  inclose  minced 
meat,  creamed  fish,  etc. 

Circles  for  poached  eggs  are  cut  with  a  biscuit  cut- 
ter three  inches  in  diameter,  and  may  be  toasted  in 
the  ordinary  way  if  preferred. 

For  boxes  cut  bread  from  which  the  crust  has  been 
removed  into  pieces  two  and  a  half  inches  thick,  two 
and  a  half  inches  wide  and  three  and  a  half  inches 
long,  then  with  a  pointed  knife  cut  a  line  around  the 
inside  one  half  of  an  inch  from  the  edge  and  care- 
fully remove  the  crumb,  leaving  a  box  with  sides  and 
bottom  one  half  inch  in  thickness.  The  boxes  may  be 
cut  round  if  preferred,  using  two  sizes  of  biscuit  cut- 
ters. They  are  browned  the  same  as  other  croiitons, 
and  are  nsed  for  creamed  spinach,  creamed  chicken, 
creamed  fish,  etc. 

A  five  cent  square  loaf  of  bread  cuts  to  good  ad- 
vantage. 


Circles. 


Boxes. 


CROt^TONS   AND  CROUSTADES.      (SEE  PAGE  81.) 

1.    Sippets  to  use  with  boiled  eggs.  2.    Pyramidal  Pieces  for  Borders. 

3,  4,  6.    Bread  Boxes.  5.    Triaugles  for  GamisWng. 

7.  Croustade  for  Poached  Egg,  Creamed  Meats,  etc. 

8.  Croiitons  for  Soups. 


SOME  USEFUL  UTENSILS. 

1,  2.    Small  Pointed  Knives  for  Vegetables,  Boning,  etc. 

3.  Fluted  Knife  for  cutting  potato  straws,  or  cutting  vegetables  Into  fancy  shapes. 

4.  Tuller  Knife.    Useful  for  pastry  and  all  work  done  on  a  board. 

5.  Broad-bladed  Knife  or  Spatula.  6.    Saw. 

8,  9.    Small  Wooden  Spoons.  7,    Bread  or  Cake  Knife. 


METHODS  OF  COOKING  EXPLAINED  83 

CHARTREUSE 

Chartreuse  is  a  liqueur  made  by  the  monks  of 
the  French  monastery  of  Grande  Chartreuse;  but 
a  class  of  dishes  has  also  been  given  this  name, ' 
where  two  or  more  foods  are  used  one  of  which 
conceals  the  others.  The  story  goes  that  on  fast  days 
the  monks  were  thus  able  to  indulge  in  forbidden 
food,  and  savory  viands  were  hidden  under  cabbage 
or  other  severely  plain  articles.  Chartreuses  are  made 
by  lining  a  mold  with  rice,  a  vegetable,  or  a  force- 
meat, and  filling  the  center  with  a  different  food.  Two 
vegetables  are  sometimes  so  combined,  but  more  often 
game  or  meats  are  inclosed  in  rice  and  served  with  a 
good  sauce.     (See  illustration  facing  page  190.) 

Fruits  are  made  into  chartreuses  by  inclosing  them       En 
in  blanc-mange  or  puddings.    When  meats  are  molded  ^«^«^e. 
in  aspic  jelly  they  are  called  "  En  Belle vue  "  as  in  this 
case  they  are  not  concealed. 


Chaptee  II 


SOUPS 


Brown 
Stock,  see 
page  88. 

White 
Stock,  see 
page  99. 


Chicken 
Conaonun6 

or  Broth, 
8eepage98. 


As  nothing  is  easier  than  making  good  soups,  they 
should  be  the  first  lesson  in  cooking. 

They  are  one  of  the  most  nutritious  and  inexpen- 
sive foods  presented,  and  have  a  very  wide  range,  ex- 
tending from  the  clear,  transparent  soups,  through 
many  degrees  of  consistency,  color  and  material,  to 
the  heavy  varieties  which  contain  enough  nourish- 
ment for  a  meal  in  themselves.  The  pot-au-feu  as 
managed  in  the  families  of  the  French  peasantry  fur- 
nishes their  chief  source  of  diet.  The  pot  on  the  fire 
receives  every  bit  of  nutritious  material  of  every 
kind;  by  slow  cooking  the  juices  and  flavors  are  ex- 
tracted, and  a  savory  combination  is  made  which  is 
both  pleasant  to  the  taste  and  satisfying  to  the  hunger. 

The  stock-pot  should  be  on  every  range,  and  its 
contents  ever  ready  to  be  drawn  upon,  not  only  for 
soup,  but  for  sauces,  and  for  flavoring  the  numerous 
dishes  which  can  be  enriched  and  improved  by  stock.* 

The  many  kinds  of  soups  are  variations  of  the  few 
kinds  of  stock. 

The  brown  stock  is  made  from  beef,  or  from  beef, 
veal,  and  fowl  combined,  and  mixed  vegetables. 

White  stock  is  made  of  veal  and  chicken  together, 
or  from  veal  alone,  seasoned  with  onion,  celery,  white 
pepper,  and  salt,  nothing  being  used  which  will  give 
color. 

Chicken  stock  is  made  from  the  fowl  alone,  and  sea- 
soned with  celery,  white  pepper,  and  salt. 

Cream  soups  are  made  without  stock,  the  basis  be- 

*  It  is  not  meant  to  imply  that  the  stock-pot  should  never  be  re- 
moved from  the  range  and  that  articles  should  be  added  at  any  time. 
When  the  nutriment  is  extracted  from  one  collection  of  materials,  the 
stock  should  be  strained  off,  the  pot  thoroughly  cleaned,  and  a  new 
stock  started  aa  aoon  as  enough  materials  have  again  accumulated. 
— M.B. 

8A 


SOUPS 


85 


ing  vegetables  boiled  and  mashed  to  a  pur6e  by  being 
pressed  through  a  colander  or  sieve,  then  mixed  with 
cream  or  milk  and  seasoned  to  taste. 

The  meats  used  for  soups  are :  the  lower  ©r  tough 
part  of  the  round,  the  shin,  and  the  neck  pieces  of 
beef,  the  knuckle  of  veal,  and  fowls.  Mutton  is  not 
used  except  for  mutton  broth.  A  very  little  ham  is 
sometimes  used  j  game  also  gives  good  flavor. 

Bones  contain  gelatine  and  cause  the  stock  to  jelly 
when  cold. 

The  soup  vegetables  are  onions,  carrots,  turnips, 
and  celery.  They  are  cut  into  small  pieces  and  are 
sometimes  fried  before  being  added  to  the  soup  pot. 

Parsley  wrapped  around  peppercorns,  cloves,  bay- 
leaves  and  other  herbs,  excepting  sage,  and  tied,  makes 
what  is  called  a  bouquet.  In  this  shape  the  herbs  are 
more  easily  removed. 

The  proportions  are  one  quart  of  cold  water  to  a 
pound  of  meat,  and  to  four  quarts  of  water  one  each 
of  the  vegetables  of  medium  size,  named  above,  two 
sticks  of  celery,  and  a  bouquet  containing  one  root  of 
parsley  with  leaves,  one  bay-leaf,  twelve  peppercorns, 
six  cloves, —  one  sprig  of  thyme,  and  sweet  marjoram  if 
desired. 

In  making  good  soup  the  first  essential  is  a  perfectly 
clean  pot.  I  would  emphasize  the  word  clean.  First 
have  the  pot  thoroughly  washed  with  soda  and  water 
to  remove  any  grease,  then  scoured  with  sapoHo  to 
take  off  any  bits  of  burned  or  hardened  matter. 

The  meat  should  be  wiped  clean  with  a  wet  cloth 
and  carefully  examined  to  see  if  there  are  any  tainted 
spots,  then  cut  into  pieces  about  one  and  a  half  inches 
square  (except  in  the  case  where  a  round  of  beef  is 
used,  which  is  to  be  removed  when  tender  and  served 
as  bouiUi).  The  meat  and  bones  must  be  put  into 
cold  water  in  order  to  extract  the  juices,  and  never  be 


Cream 
Soaps,  see 
page  105. 

Soap 
Heats. 


Soap 


The 
Booqaet. 


Propor- 
tions. 


The  order 
of  prepar- 
ing Soaps. 


86 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


allowed  to  boil.  Slow  cooking  best  effects  the  object 
desired  (see  article  on  boiling,  page  67).  After  the 
meat  has  stood  fifteen  minutes  in  cold  water,  put  it  on 
the  fire,  cover,  and  let  it  come  slowly  to  the  simmering- 
point,  then  place  on  the  back  of  range  to  simmer  for 
six  hours  or  more.  An  hour  before  the  cooking  is 
completed,  add  the  vegetables,  cut  into  small  pieces. 
When  the  soup  is  to  be  served  clear,  it  is  well  to  remove 
the  scum  as  it  rises,  but  this  is  not  essential,  for  much 
of  it  comes  off  when  the  soup  is  strained,  and  perfectly 
clear  soup  requires  clarifying  in  any  case.  The  French 
receipts  all  say  remove  the  scum,  but  as  it  is  a  nutrient 
part  of  the  meat,  unless  clearness  is  desired,  it  seems 
better  to  let  it  remain  during  the  period  of  cooking. 

When  the  soup  has  simmered  five  or  six  hours,  it 
should  be  strained  into  an  earthen  bowl  and  left  to 
cool  uncovered.  Under  no  circumstances  let  it  stand 
in  the  pot  after  it  is  cooked.  The  grease  wiU  rise  to 
the  top  and  form  a  cake  which  can  be  easily  removed 
when  cold.  Any  little  particles  which  may  stick  to 
the  jelly  may  be  wiped  off  with  a  cloth  wet  in  hot 
water.  Where  a  quantity  of  stock  is  made  at  one 
time,  it  is  weU  to  strain  it  into  two  or  even  three 
bowls ;  the  grease  forms  an  air-tight  cover  and  will 
help  to  keep  it  from  souring.  Stock  should  be  made 
the  day  before  it  is  to  be  used  in  order  to  let  the  grease 
rise  and  the  floating  particles  settle,  but  where  it  is 
needed  at  once,  the  grease  that  cannot  be  skimmed  off 
with  a  spoon  can  be  absorbed  by  passing  tissue  paper 
over  it  carefuUy. 
aarifying.  Soup  can  be  made  perfectly  clear  by  taking  the  jel- 
lied stock  from  which  every  particle  of  grease  and  sed- 
iment has  been  removed,  and  stirring  into  it,  while 
cold,  the  slightly-beaten  white  and  crushed  shell  of 
one  egg  to  each  quart  of  stock.  It  must  be  stirred 
constantly  until  the  soup  is  hot  enough  to  coagulate 


Removing 
the  Grease. 


SOUPS  87 

the  albumen,  by  which  time  it  has  thoroughly  mixed 
with  and  imprisoned  the  fine  particles  which  cloud  the 
liquid.  Let  it  boil  violently  for  five  minutes,  then 
let  it  stand  five  minutes  longer  on  the  side  of  the  range 
to  settle.  Strain  through  a  fine  cloth  laid  on  a  seive. 
Let  it  drain  through  without  pressing.  In  some  cases 
a  small  bit  of  lemon  rind  used  with  the  egg  in  clear- 
ing  gives  a  pleasant  flavor  to  the  soup.  After  clearing 
it  will  ordinarily  need  to  be  heated  again  before  serv- 
ing. In  high-class  cooking,  soups  are  cleared  with 
chopped  raw  meat  or  chicken,  which  adds  to,  instead 
of  detracting  from  the  richness  of  the  soup.  The  al- 
bumen of  egg  does  not  materially  affect  the  quality 
of  the  soup,  and  is  recommended  for  general  practice.* 

If  a  deeper  color  is  wanted,  it  may  be  obtained  by  Coloring, 
adding  a  very  little  caramel  (see  page  78)  or  a  few 
drops  of  a  preparation  called  "Kitchen  Bouquet." 
Artificial  coloring,  however,  is  not  so  good  as  that 
obtained  by  browning  the  vegetables  and  part  of  the 
meat  before  adding  them  to  the  soup  pot.  (See 
brown  stock,  page  88.) 

The  meat  soups  are  called  broths,  bouillon,  or  con-  Names. 
somm6,  according  to  their  richness. 

The  purees  are  thick  soups  made  with  or  without 
stock,  the  basis  being  mashed  vegetables  or  meat 
pounded  to  a  paste. 

Stock  made  of  meat  alone  will  keep  better  than  Meat 
where  vegetables  are  used.  In  warm  weather  it  is  well  ^^"^ 
to  have  it  so  prepared. 

COMMON  STOCK  (POT-AU-FEU) 

For  this  stock  pieces  of  fresh  or  cooked  meat  are 
used,  also  all  odds  and  ends,  chicken  bones,  gravies, 

*  It  will  be  difficult  if  not  impossible  to  make  a  perfectly  clear  and 
brUliant  soup  from  stock  wbere  bones  have  been  used,  if  tbe  stock  has 
been  subjected  to  boiling  heat.  Boiling  dissolves  the  lime  in  the  bones, 
and  this  gives  a  cloudiness  which  clarifying  will  not  entirely  remove. 
— M.  B. 


88  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

cooked  or  raw  vegetables,  etc.  "Water  in  wMch  fish 
or  vegetables  (excepting  cabbage  or  potatoes)  have 
been  boiled  may  or  may  not  be  used.  They  are  put 
together  cold  and  are  simmered  for  five  or  six  hours, 
then  strained  through  a  colander  into  an  earthen 
bowl  and  left  to  cool  uncovered.  Clear  soup  should 
not  be  attempted  with  this  stock,  but  it  is  good  to 
combine  with  vegetables  for  vegetable  soup,  or  with 
other  mixtures  like  rice,  bits  of  meat,  chicken,  gumbo, 
etc.,  for  soup  and  to  use  for  sauces  and  seasoning. 

BEEF  OR  BROWN  STOCK 

8  lbs.  of  shin  of  beef.  1  onion. 

8  quarts  of  cold  water.  1  stick  of  celery. 

1  medium-sized  carrot.  12  peppercorns. 

1  medium-sized  turnip.  6  cloves. 

1  parsley  root  and  leaves.  1  tablespoonful  of  salt. 
Rub  with  a  wet  cloth  the  outside  of  the  shin  of  beef, 
which  has  been  well  broken  by  the  butcher.  Take  the 
meat  from  the  bones  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Put 
aside  a  half  pound  of  the  meat.  Place  the  rest  of  the 
meat  and  the  bones  in  a  perfectly  clean  pot  with  the 
cold  water,  and  let  it  stand  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes, 
or  until  the  water  is  red;  then  place  them  on  the 
fire  and  let  them  come  slowly  to  the  simmering  point. 
Meanwhile,  place  in  a  saute-pan  some  of  the  marrow 
from  the  bones,  or  a  tablespoonful  of  drippings.  When 
the  fat  is  hot  put  in  the  half  pound  of  reserved  meat 
and  cook  it  until  it  is  well  browned.  When  the  water 
in  the  pot  has  begun  to  simmer,  put  in  the  browned 
meat  and  rinse  the  saut^-pan  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
water  so  none  of  the  value  of  the  browned  meat  will  be 
lost.  This  will  give  good  color  and  also  flavor  to  the 
soup.  Place  the  pot  where  the  water  will  simmer  only, 
and  leave  it  to  cook  for  six  hours,  or  until  the  meat  is 
cooked  to  shreds  and  its  nutriment  fuUy  extracted. 


SOUPS 

Add  the  vegetables,  whicli  have  been  well  washed, 
scraped,  and  cut  into  pieces,  one  hour  before  the 
cooking  is  completed,  and  add  the  salt  just  before 
removing  the  stock  from  the  fire. 

If  a  clear  soup  is  not  desired,  the  care  to  keep  it  below 
the  boiling  point  is  not  essential.    (See  note,  page  87.) 

When  the  stock  is  done  strain  it  through  a  close 
cloth  or  a  fine  sieve  into  an  earthen  bowl,  and  let  it 
cool  without  covering. 

When  ready  to  serve,  remove  the  grease,  clear  it  if 
desired  for  transparent  soup,  add  more  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste. 


89 


FOR    MACARONI,    NOODLE,  VERMICELLI,  VEGETABLE    OR 

PRINTANltRE,  JULIENNE,  TAPIOCA,  AND 

CROtTE-AU-POT  SOUPS, 

Take  as  much  of  the  beef  stock  as  will  be  needed, 
allowing  one  half  pint  for  each  person,  remove  all  the 
grease,  heat  it,  and  season  to  taste.  Just  before  serv- 
ing add  any  of  the  above  articles,  which  must  have 
been  boiled  separately.  The  soup  will  then  have  the 
name  of  the  ingredient  used. 

-  Julienne  does  not  differ  from  the  vegetable  soup  Juliwm*. 
except  in  the  form  given  the  vegetables.  For  juli- 
enne, the  outside  or  deep  yellow  of  the  carrot,  turnip, 
and  celery  are  cut,  with  a  knife  which  comes  for  the 
purpose,  into  thin,  thread-like  pieces  about  two  inches 
long.  The  shredded  vegetables  must  be  boiled  before 
being  added  to  the  soup,  and  care  used  to  prevent 
their  breaking  or  becoming  too  soft  to  hold  their  form, 
or  they  may  be  fried  in  butter  until  tender.  Green 
peas,  asparagus  tips,  and  flowerets  of  cauliflower  may 
also  be  added.     (See  illustration  facing  page  92.) 

Any  vegetables  may  be  used  for  vegetable  soup,  but 
judgment  should  be  shown  in  the  combination.   They     p-jj^tun. 
may  be  made  ornamental  by  being  cut  into  fancy       i4». 


90 


THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 


Tapioca. 


Crodtean 
Pot. 


GanuBhes 
for  Soups 


shapes  "with,  cutters,  or  into  balls  with  a  small  potato 
scoop,  or  they  may  be  cut  into  dice. 

Pearl  tapioca  boiled  to  clearness  makes  a  very  pretty 
thickening  to  clear  soup. 

Small  pieces  of  toast  or  thin  shavings  of  stale  bread 
are  added  to  the  tureen  just  before  serving  to  make 
the  croute-au-pot.  The  soup  should  be  served  before 
the  bread  dissolves  or  gets  very  soft. 

For  julienne,  tapioca,  and  croHte-au-pot,  the  soup 
should  be  perfectly  clear  and  a  deep  amber  color. 

Other  garnishes  which  may  be  added  to  soups  are : 
Force-meat  balls  (see  page  92) ;  yolks  of  hard-boiled 
^SS^ '}  ^SS  halls  (see  page  92) ;  royal  custard  (see 
page  92) ;  fried  croiitons  (see  page  81) ;  noodles  (see 
page  93) ;  dumplings  (see  page  170) ;  thin  cross-cuts 
of  celery;  thin  slices  of  lemon,  one  for  each  plate; 
grated  Parmesan  cheese  (passed) ;  macaroni  cut  into 
pieces  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  making  rings ; 
sweet  potato  balls  (see  page  94) ;  marrow  balls  (see 
page  94) ;  green  pea  timbale  (see  page  94) ;  harlequin 
slices  (see  page  94) ;  with  consomm6,  a  poached  egg 
for  each  portion. 


THICKENING  FOR  SOUPS 

Roux  (see  page  79)  makes  the  best  thickening  for 
soups  which  are  not  clear,  using  brown  or  white  roux 
according  to  the  color  of  the  soup.  Thin  the  roux 
with  a  little  soup,  so  it  will  be  smooth  before  adding 
it  to  the  soup  kettle.  Roux  added  to  pea,  bean,  and 
potato  soups  prevents  their  separating. 

A  thickening  of  eggs  is  made  as  follows :  Beat  two 
or  three  yolks  and  dilute  them  with  a  haK  a  cupful  of 
cream  or  milk  or  cold  soup.  Stir  in  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  the  hot  soup  to  warm  it.  Remove  the  soup  from 
the  fire  and  stir  in  slowly  the  egg  mixture,  return  it 


SOUPS  91 

to  the  fire  to  cook  the  egg,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  or  it 
may  curdle. 

Clear  soups  are  sometimes  thickened  by  using  one 
teaspoonf  ul  of  arrowroot  to  a  quart  of  soup.  Mix  the 
arrowroot  with  a  little  of  the  cold  soup,  turn  it  into 
the  hot  soup,  and  cook  until  it  becomes  clear.  A  clear 
soup  so  thickened  may  be  flavored  with  sherry. 


GAENISHES  FOE  SOUPS 
BOTALE 

A  CUSTABD  TO  SERVE  WITH  CONSOMMlfi 

2  yolks.  ^  teaspoonfiQ  of  salt 

1  entire  egg.  Dash  of  cayenne. 

^  cupful  of  beef  stock. 

Beat  the  eggs  well,  but  not  to  a  froth.  Add  one  third  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one  half  cupful  of  clear  beef  stock.  Pour 
the  mixture  into  a  smaU  pan  or  flat  dish,  so  it  will  be  about  one 
half  inch  deep.  Set  the  pan  into  another  one  containing  hot 
water  and  place  them  in  a  very  moderate  oven,  so  that  the  cus- 
tard will  set  without  bubbles  and  without  browning  on  top. 
Let  the  custard  become  perfectly  cold.  Without  removing  it 
from  the  pan,  cut  it  into  cubes  one  half  inch  square,  or  into 
fancy  forms,  with  vegetable  cutters. 

These  pieces  should  be  placed  carefully  in  the  consomm6  after 
it  is  in  the  tureen,  allowing  three  or  four  pieces  to  each  portion 
of  soup. 

FOBGE-MEAT  BALLS 

Chop  any  cooked  meat  very  fine,  season  highly  with  salt, 
pepper,  thyme,  onion  juice,  lemon  juice,  and  herbs  if  desired ; 
add  enough  yolk  of  egg  to  moisten  and  bind  the  meat.  Mold 
into  balls  one  half  inch  in  diameter,  roll  the  balls  in  flour,  and 
poach  them  in  boiling  water,  or  they  may  be  fried  in  butter. 

Force-meat  balls  may  also  be  made  of  raw  meat  prepared  as 
for  timbale  paste  (see  page  297). 

EGG  BALLS 

Rub  to  a  paste,  with  a  wooden  spoon,  the  yolks  of  hard-boiled 
eggs ;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter ;   add  enough  raw 

92 


PKINTANlfeRE  AND  JUI-IENNE  SOUP  VEGETABLES.      (SEE  PAGE  89.) 

1,  2,  3.    Cutters  used  for  cutting  vegetables  for  Printani^re  Soup. 

4.  Vegetables  prepared  for  Priutauii^re  Soup. 

5.  Knife  for  cutting  vegetables  into  Julienne.    6.    Julienne. 


NOODLES.      (SEE   PAGK.  IW.) 

1.  Sheet  of  Noodle  Paste.  2.    Noodles  for  Soup. 

3.  Noodles  to  serve  as  vegetable.  i.    Noodle  Balls. 

5.  Sbeet  of  Noodle  Paste  Rolled.  6.    Paste  cut  from  Roll. 

7.  Noodle  Paste  cut  for  Balls  before  being  fi-ied. 


BADISHES  CCT  TO   IMITATE   BOSKS. 


SOUPS  98 

yolk  to  bind  the  paste ;  form  it  into  balls  one  half  the  size  of  a 
natural  yolk;  roll  them  in  white  of  egg  and  then  in  flom*, 
and  poach  the  balls  in  boiling  water  for  a  few  minutes. 

Three  yolks  will  make  five  balls.  One  ball  is  enough  to  allow 
to  each  portion  of  soup. 

NOODLES 

Several  dishes  may  be  made  from  noodles. 

To  three  eggs  (slightly  beaten)  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  water  and  a  little  salt,  add  enough  flour  to  make  a  stiff 
dough  j  work  it  well  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  adding  flour 
when  necessary.  When  it  is  smooth  and  elastic,  cut  off  a  small 
piece  at  a  time  and  roll  it  as  thin  as  a  wafer.  It  can  be  rolled 
very  thin  by  placing  a  cloth  under  it.  Sprinkle  the  thin  sheet 
with  flour,  and  roll  it  into  a  rather  tight  roll.  Witii  a  sharp 
knife  cut  it,  from  the  end, — into  threads,  if  for  soup  j  if  to  use 
as  a  vegetable,  into  ribbons  one  quarter  inch  wide.  Let  them 
dry  an  hour  or  more.    They  will  keep  the  same  as  macaroni. 

NOODLES  SERVED  AS  A  VEGETABLE 

Throw  a  few  noodles  at  a  time  into  boiling,  salted  water; 
boil  them  until  they  are  done,  separating  them  carefully  with  a 
fork  to  prevent  their  matting  together.  Skim  them  out  when 
done,  and  keep  them  on  a  warm  dish  on  the  hot  shelf  until 
enough  are  cooked.  Season  with  butter.  Put  them  in  the  dish 
in  which  they  are  to  be  served,  and  sprinkle  over  them  bread 
crumbs  browned  in  hot  butter  to  a  golden  color.  This  dish 
may  be  served  with  fish,  with  meat,  or  as  a  course  by  itself. 
Noodles  may  also  be  cooked  like  macaroni,  with  cheese. 

NOODLE  BALLS 

Take  some  of  the  noodle  paste  made  as  directed  above.  Roll 
it  as  thin  as  possible,  then  place  it  on  a  floured  napkin  and  roll 
until  it  is  as  thin  as  paper ;  fold  it  double,  and  cut  it  into  circles 
one  quarter  inch  in  diameter,  using  a  small  vegetable  cutter  or 
pastry  bag  tube.    Fry  them  in  smoking  hot  fat,  tossing  them  in 


94  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

the  frying  basket  so  that  they  will  color  evenly.  They  will  puff 
into  balls  and  color  in  one  minute.  Drain  and  place  them  on 
paper  on  the  hot  shelf.  Sprinkle  them  on  the  soup  after  it  is  in 
the  tureen,  or  better  pass  them,  as  they  soften  very  quickly. 

MABBOW  BALLS 

Melt  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  marrow  and  strain  it  through  a  cloth, 
or  fine  sieve,  into  a  bowl ;  beat  it  till  creamy,  then  add  an  egg 
and  beat  again  thoroughly.  Season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a 
little  nutmeg.  Add  to  this  mixture  as  much  soft  bread  as  it  will 
moisten.  Roll  it  into  small  balls  and  poach  in  boiling  water. 
Place  them  in  the  soup  just  before  serving. 

SWEET  POTATO  BALLS 

Mash  some  cooked  sweet  potatoes,  season  with  butter,  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  a  little  grated  cheese.  Moisten  with 
beaten  egg ;  roll  into  small  balls  and  poach  in  boiling  water. 
Put  the  balls  into  the  soup  the  last  thing  before  serving. 

GBEEH  PEA  TIMBALE  POB  SOUP 

Mix  one  half  cupful  of  mashed  green  peas  with  o'ne  table- 
spoonful  of  soup  stock  and  three  whites  of  eggs;  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  nutmeg.  Beat  well  together  and  place 
in  a  small  mold  or  flat  tin.  Set  the  mold  into  hot  water  and 
place  in  slow  oven  until  the  mixture  is  set.  When  it  is  firm, 
unmold,  cut  into  small  cubes,  and  put  them  in  the  soup  just  be- 
fore serving. 

HABLEaUIN  SLICES 

Cut  into  small  squares  some  cooked  carrots,  turnips,  and  string 
beans.  Arrange  them  in  timbale  cups,  mixing  the  vegetables 
together;  fill  the  cups  up  with  royale  mixture.  (See  above.) 
Set  them  into  hot  water  and  cook  in  slow  oven  until  the  custard 
is  firm.  Unmold  when  cold,  and  cut  with  a  sharp  knife  into 
slices  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Place  these  in  the  soup  just 
before  serving. 


BROTHS 

CHICKEN  BROTH 

1  fowl.  i  cupful  of  rice. 

4  quarts  of  cold  water.  Salt  and  pepper. 

Clean  the  fowl  carefully ;  wash  it  with  a  wet  cloth ;  cut  it  into 
pieces  and  remove  the  fat.  Place  the  joints  in  a  saucepan  with 
a  quart  of  water  to  each  pound  of  fowl.  Let  it  simmer  until 
the  meat  is  tender ;  then  remove  the  breast ;  after  four  hours 
take  it  off  and  strain  it  through  a  sieve.  Let  the  soup  stand 
until  the  grease  rises;  then  carefuUy  remove  it,  and  put  the 
soup  again  in  the  saucepan;  add  the  breast  of  the  chicken, 
cut  into  dice,  and  the  half  cupful  of  rice ;  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  and  cook  until  the  rice  is  tender. 

CLAM  BROTH 

12  large  hard-shelled  clams  for  1  pint  of  broth. 

Boil  the  clams  and  juice  for  twenty  minutes ;  strain  and  let 
it  stand  to  settle ;  strain  it  again  carefully  into  a  saucepan,  and 
let  it  boil  up  once ;  season  with  butter  and  pepper — no  salt — and 
serve  in  cups  with  whipped  cream  on  top. 

To  open  the  clams  and  obtain  the  juice,  place  the  clams,  after 
they  have  been  carefully  washed  with  a  brush  and  clear  water, 
in  a  saucepan ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  water ;  cover  and 
let  them  steam  until  the  shells  open ;  then  strain  off  the  liquor. 

MUTTON  BROTH 

The  neck  or  shoulder-pieces  may  be  used  for  broth.  The 
meat  should  be  cut  into  pieces  and  the  fat  removed.    To  each 

95 


96  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

pound  of  meat  add  one  quart  of  cold  water;  simmer  for  four  or 
five  hours ;  strain  it  into  an  earthen  bowl ;  when  ready  to  serve, 
remove  the  grease,  and  add  to  each  quart  of  stock  one  stick  of 
celery,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
boil  until  the  rice  is  soft. 

The  water  in  which  a  leg  of  mutton  has  been  boiled  will 
make  a  good  mutton  soup,  but  is  not  rich  enough  for  a  broth 
to  be  served  to  an  invalid. 

Broth  Made  Qnickly  for  Invalids,  Broth  may  be  made  quickly 
by  chopping  lean  meat  to  a  fine  mince.  To  a  pound  of  meat 
add  one  pint  of  cold  water ;  let  soak  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then 
let  slowly  boil  for  half  an  hour ;  season  and  strain. 


SOUPS 
BOUILLON 

(3  PINTS.      TIME,  5  hours) 

3  lbs.  of  beef  cut  from  under    2  sticks  of  celery. 

side  of  round  and  1  bay-leaf. 

chopped  to  a  mince.  2  cloves. 

3  quarts  of  cold  water.  6  peppercorns. 

1  onion.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt  ad- 
i  carrot.  ded  just  before  taking 

1  sprig  of  parsley.  the  soup  off  the  fire. 

Take  three  pounds  of  beef  cut  from  the  lower  part  of  round, 
remove  all  the  fat,  and  chop  the  meat  to  a  fine  mince.  Place 
the  chopped  meat  in  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of  cold  water, 
and  let  it  stand  one  hour ;  then  put  it  on  the  fire,  cover,  and  let 
it  come  slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  taking  off  any  scum  that 
rises.  Then  place  it  where  it  will  only  simmer.  After  it  has 
simmered  for  four  hours  add  the  vegetables  cut  into  dice,  and 
the  spices,  and  let  it  simmer  one  hour  longer.  Strain  into  an 
earthen  bowl  and  let  it  cool  without  covering.  This  stock  will 
not  jelly,  as  no  bones  are  boiled  with  it. 

When  ready  to  use  remove  grease,  season,  if  necessary,  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  put  into  saucepan  with  three  fourths  of  a 
pound  of  lean  meat  chopped  fine,  and  the  white  of  one  egg.  Stir 
untU.  it  boils ;  let  it  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Lay  a  fine  cloth  on 
a  sieve  and  strain  through  it  the  bouillon  without  pressing.  It 
should  be  perfectly  clear  and  of  the  color  of  amber.    It  can  be 

7  97 


98  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

served  in  cups.    A  little  sherry  may  be  added,  if  liked,  when 
served  at  afternoon  teas. 

CONSOMME* 


4  lbs.  lower  part  round  of  beef. 

2  sprigs  of  parsley. 

4  lbs.  knuckle  of  veal. 

15  peppercorns. 

2  tablespoon fuls  of  butter. 

3  cloves. 

6  quarts  of  cold  water. 

1  inch  square  of  cinnamon 

1  large  onion. 

A  little  thyme. 

^  carrot. 

A  little  marjoram. 

3  stalks  of  celery 

A  little  summer  savory. 

1  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

2  bay-leaves. 

Cut  the  beef  into  pieces  one  inch  square.  Remove  the  veal  from 
the  bone,  and  cut  it  also  into  small  pieces.  Put  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  butter  into  a  very  clean  soup-pot  with  the  pieces  of  meat, 
and  stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  the  meat  is  browned,  care  being 
taken  that  it  does  not  bura;  then  add  one  quart  of  water,  and 
let  it  cook  until  a  glaze  has  formed  on  the  bottom  of  the  kettle, 
which  will  take  about  one  hour.  Then  add  five  quarts  of  cold 
water  and  let  it  come  slowly  to  the  boiling-poiit.  Set  the  soup- 
pot  back  on  the  fire  and  let  the  soup  simmer  for  six  hours.  Re- 
move the  scum  from  time  to  time  as  it  rises.  One  hour  before 
the  time  for  removing  the  soup  add  to  it  the  vegetables,  which 
have  been  cut  fine  and  browned  in  one  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
Add  also  the  herbs  and  spices,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  salt. 
When  it  has  simmered  six  hours,  strain  it  through  a  fine  cloth, 
laid  on  a  sieve,  into  an  earthen  bowl,  and  let  it  cool  without 
covering.  A  fowl  added  to  this  receipt  will  give  the  soup  a  more 
delicate  flavor.  If  used  it  should  be  put  in  the  pot  at  the  time 
the  five  quarts  of  water  are  added.  The  veal-bone  may  also  go 
in  at  this  time;  but  the  soup  will  not  be  so  clear  if  the  bone  is 
used.  If  a  chicken  is  used  it  may  be  removed  from  the  stock 
when  tender  and  used  for  other  purposes. 

•  This  receipt  gives  a  perfectly  clear,  brilliant  sonp  after  it  is  clarified.  If  no  bones 
are  used  it  can  be  boiled  slowly  without  iiyury  instead  of  being  simmered.  The 
stock  vrill  not  always  jeUy,—M.  R. 


SOUPS  99 

OX-TAIL  SOUP 

2  ox-tails.  1  stick  of  celery. 

1  onion.  1  root  of  parsley. 

1  tablespoonful  of  drip-  3  cloves. 

pings  or  of  salt  pork.  6  peppercorns. 

4  quarts  of  cold  water.  1  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

Cut  the  ox-tails  into  pieces,  separating  them  at  the  joints. 
Saut6  the  onion  and  the  ox-tails  in  the  drippings  to  a  delicate 
brown.  Put  the  meat  in  the  soup-pot  with  four  quarts  of  cold 
water.  Let  it  come  to  the  boiling-point ;  add  the  vegetables  and 
spices,  and  simmer  for  four  hours,  then  add  the  salt.  Strain, 
take  off  the  grease.  Select  some  of  the  pieces  of  ox-tail,  one 
piece  for  each  portion,  and  place  them  in  the  tureen  with  the 
soup.    Ox-tails  are  gelatinous  and  make  a  smooth  soup. 

WHITE  STOCK 

1  knuckle  of  veal.  1  onion. 

1  fowl.  2  stalks  of  celery. 

Bouquet  of  herbs.  1  small  turnip  cut  into  dice. 

1  small  carrot  cut  into  dice. 

Cut  the  meat  from  the  bone.  Wash  the  skin  of  the  fowl  (see 
page  180).  Allow  one  quart  of  cold  water  to  each  pound  of  meat 
and  bone.  Place  all  in  a  kettle.  Cover  and  let  simmer  four  or 
five  hours.    Strain  into  an  earthen  bowl,  and  let  cool  uncovered. 

White  stock  may  be  made  of  veal  alone.  If  a  fowl  is  used, 
the  breast  and  second  joints  may  be  removed  when  tender,  and 
used  for  other  dishes  (croquettes,  souffle,  imperiale,  etc.).  A 
part  of  the  veal  may  also  be  removed,  and  used  for  veal  loaf 
(see  page  171). 

WHITE   SOUP 

1  pint  of  white  stock.  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

1  pint  of  milk  or  cream.  Chicken,  veal,  or  celery  (cut 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter.  into  small  dice),  or  rice. 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour. 


100  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Put  one  pint  of  milk  or  cream  into  a  double  boiler ;  add  to  it 
one  pint  of  white  stock,  and  a  white  roux  made  of  one  table^ 
spoonful  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  cooked  to- 
gether, but  not  browned.  Dilute  the  roux  to  smoothness  with  a 
little  of  the  cold  milk  before  adding  it  to  the  soup.  Let  it  come 
to  the  boiling-point.  Season  to  taste,  and  strain  into  the  tureen ; 
then  add  one  tablespoonful  or  more  of  chicken  breast,  veal, 
or  celery  (cut  into  small  dice),  or  rice.  If  desired,  two  or  more  of 
these  may  be  used,  and  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg,  pressed 
through  a  sieve,  sprinkled  over  the  top.  This  quantity  gives 
but  one  quart  of  soup ;  enough  to  serve  to  four  people. 

CHICKEN  CONSOMME,  OB  STOCK 

Place  a  fowl,  cut  into  pieces,  in  four  quarts  of  cold  water ; 
let  come  slowly  to  the  boiling-point ;  then  draw  it  to  the  side 
of  range  and  simmer  for  three  hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time 
add  one  slice  of  onion,  two  sticks  of  celery,  one  tablespoonful 
of  salt,  one  saltspoonf  ul  of  pepper,  and  simmer  one  or  two  hours 
longer;  strain  into  earthen  bowl,  and  let  cool  without  covering. 

This  stock  may  be  cleared  the  same  as  beef  stock,  and  served 
in  cups  for  luncheon.  It  may  also  be  mixed  with  gelatine, 
cleared,  and  used  for  aspic,  in  Russian  salads,  jellied  chicken, 
etc.  (see  page  323). 

The  meat  from  the  breast  and  second  joints  may  be  removed 
from  the  stock-pot,  when  tender,  and  reserved  for  timbales,  cro- 
quettes, patties,  etc. 

If  this  soup  is  not  rich  enough,  it  can  be  reduced  by  opening 
the  lid  of  the  pot,  after  it  has  simmered  the  required  time,  and 
allowed  to  boil  uncovered  until  as  rich  as  desired. 

PLAIN  CHICKEN  SOUP 

1  fowl.  1  slice  of  onion. 

4  quarts  of  water.        2  sticks  of  celery. 
1  cupful  of  rice.  1  sprig  of  parsley. 

Place  the  fowl,  cut  into  pieces,  in  a  saucepan  with  four  quarts 
of  cold  water ;  when  it  comes  to  the  boiling-point,  draw  it  aside 


SOUPS  101 

and  let  it  simmer  for  three  hours  j  then  add  one  thick  slice  of 
onion,  two  sticks  of  celery,  one  sprig  of  parsley,  and  one  cupful  of 
rice,  and  simmer  for  another  hour ;  strain  and  let  the  soup  stand 
until  the  grease  can  be  taken  off  the  top.  Remove  the  meat,  bones, 
and  vegetables  from  the  strainer,  and  press  the  rice  through 
the  sieve ;  stir  this  into  the  soup ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  heat  again  before  serving;  a  little  cream  may  also  be 
added.  This  soup  is  also  good  thickened  with  a  little  roux  or 
with  corn-starch.  For  the  latter,  take  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
cold  stock ;  stir  into  it  one  tablespoonf  ul  of  corn-starch ;  then 
stir  it  into  the  soup,  and  let  cook  for  ten  minutes  to  take  away 
the  raw  taste  of  the  starch,  and  to  make  it  clear.  Pieces  of  the 
breast  cut  into  dice  may  also  be  added. 

VEaETABLE  SOUP 

To  one  quart  of  common  stock  add  one  pint  of  parboiled 
mixed  vegetables  cut  into  small  dice.  Simmer  until  the  vege- 
tables are  tender  but  not  pasty.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  sugar. 

Serve  without  straining. 

TOMATO  PUBEE 

Put  into  a  granite-ware  saucepan  a  quart  of  canned  or 
of  fresh  tomatoes;  add  a  pint  of  water  or  of  stock; — the  soup 
will  be  better  if  stock  is  used ; —  add  also  one  bay-leaf,  a  sprig 
of  parsley,  a  stick  of  celery,  six  peppercorns,  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  sugar;  simmer  until  the  tomato  is  thoroughly  soft. 
In  another  saucepan  put  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  butter ;  when  it  is 
hot  add  a  sliced  onion,  and  fry,  but  not  brown  it ;  then  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  cook,  but  not  brown  the  flour.  To 
this  roux  add  enough  of  the  tomato  to  dilute  it,  and  then  mix 
it  well  with  the  rest  of  the  tomato,  and  season  with  salt.  Pass 
the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve  or  strainer.  Heat  it  again  before 
serving,  and  sprinkle  over  the  top  small  croutons. 


UBRABY 


102  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

SPLIT-PEA  OB  BEAK  SOUP 

1  cupful  of  split  peas,  or         2  quarts  of  water. 
1  cupful  of  dried  beans.  ^  teaspoouful  of  sugar. 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter.        1  tablespoonful  of  flour. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Let  the  peas  or  beans  soak  over  night  in  three  quarts  of  cold 
water.  Put  the  soaked  peas  or  beans  into  a  saucepan  with  two 
quarts  of  water  and  a  ham-bone,  if  you  have  it,  otherwise  it  may 
be  omitted.  Let  simmer  for  four  or  five  hours,  or  until  the  peas 
or  beans  are  perfectly  soft.  (Add  more  water  from  time  to 
time,  if  necessary.)  Then  pass  them  through  a  sieve ;  add  to 
the  pulp  enough  stock,  or  milk,  or  water  to  make  a  soup  of  the 
consistency  of  cream.  Put  it  again  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire; 
season,  and  add  a  roux  made  of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour  cooked  together ;  dilute  the  roux  to 
smoothness  with  a  little  of  the  soup  before  adding  it  to  the  pot. 

The  roux  will  hold  the  particles  of  peas  or  beans  in  suspen- 
sion.   Without  it  they  are  liable  to  precipitate. 

An  onion  may  be  boiled  with  the  peas  or  beans  if  desired. 

Serve  croutons  on  the  soup,  or  pass  them. 

BLACK-BEAN  SOUP 

2  cupfuls  of  black  beans.  Egg  balls. 

Brown  stock.  Thin  slices  of  lemon. 

Brown  roux.  Force-meat  balls. 

Bouquet  of  herbs,  made  of  a  White  of  hard-boiled  egg. 

sprig  of  parsley,  a  sprig  of  J  cupful  of  sherry  or  red 

thyme,  one  clove.  wine. 

4  peppercorns,  1  onion.  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Soak  two  cupfuls  of  black  beans  over  night.  Put  the  soaked 
beans  into  a  saucepan  with  a  bouquet  of  herbs,  and  cover  them 
with  cold  water.  Let  them  boil  slowly  until  tender,  which  will 
take  several  hours,  adding  more  water  if  necessary.  When  the 
beans  are  very  soft  remove  the  bouquet,  drain  off  the  water,  and 


SOUPS  103 

pass  the  beans  through  a  pur6e  sieve.  Add  to  the  pulp  enough 
brown  stock  to  make  a  soup  of  the  consistency  of  thin  cream. 
Place  it  again  on  the  fire  and  add  a  brown  roux  made  of  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonf ul  of  flour,  cooked 
together  until  brown  j  dilute  it  to  smoothness  before  adding 
and  cook  it  with  the  soup  for  five  minutes.  This  will  prevent 
the  soup  from  separating.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Strain 
it  through  a  sieve  into  the  tureen;  then  add  thin  slices  of 
lemon,  egg  balls,  and  force-meat  balls,  allowing  one  of  each  to 
each  portion  of  soup;  add  also  the  white  of  one  hard-boiled 
egg  cut  into  small  dice,  and  one  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  sherry 
or  red  wine. 
This  resembles  mock-turtle  soup. 

CALP'S-HEAD  OB  MOCK-TURTLE  SOUP 

Make  a  brown  roux  by  putting  in  a  saucepan  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  butter,  let  it  brown,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and 
let  that  brown ;  then  add,  slowly  at  first,  one  and  a  half  or  two 
quarts  of  water  in  which  a  calf  s  head  has  been  boiled,  white 
wine  instead  of  vinegar  being  used  in  the  boiling  (see  boiled 
calf  s  head,  page  175).  Add  three  or  four  strained  tomatoes  and 
simmer  for  one  half  hour.  Skim  off  any  fat  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Add  some  pieces  of  boiled  calf  s  head  cut  in 
pieces  one  half  inch  square,  a  few  egg  balls,  two  or  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sherry,  and  a  few  very  thin  slices  of  lemon. 

FISH  STOCK 

Put  into  the  soup-pot  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  or  of  drip- 
pings. Add  a  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  onion,  carrot,  and 
turnip.  Fry  them  without  browning,  then  add  fish-bones,  head, 
and  trimmings,  a  stalk  of  celery,  sprigs  of  parsley  and  of  thj'me, 
a  bay-leaf,  a  tomato  or  a  slice  of  lemon.  Cover  with  water,  and 
simmer  them  for  an  hour  or  more.  Season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per.   Strain.  • 


104  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

When  this  stock  is  used  for  soup,  make  a  roux  of  one  table" 
spoonful  each  of  butter  and  flour,  add  a  cupful  of  milk  or 
cream,  and  add  this  amount  to  each  pint  of  the  fish  stock. 

OYSTER  SOUP 

Scald  a  quart,  or  twenty-five,  oysters  in  their  own  liquor.  As 
soon  as  they  are  plump,  or  the  gills  curl,  remove  them  (oysters 
harden  if  boiled).  Add  to  the  hquor  a  cupful  of  water.  Make 
a  roux  of  one  tablespoonf  ul  each  of  butter  and  flour,  dilute  it 
with  the  liquor,  and  when  it  is  smooth  add  a  cupful  of  scalded 
milk  or  cream.  Season  with  pepper,  salt,  if  necessary,  and  a 
dash  of  cayenne  or  paprica ;  then  add  the  oysters,  and  as  soon 
as  they  are  heated  serve  at  once.  In  oyster  houses  finely 
shredded  cabbage  with  a  French  dressing  is  served  with  oyster 
soup,  and  is  a  good  accompaniment  when  served  for  luncheon. 
Oysters  should  be  carefully  examined,  and  the  liquor  passed 
through  a  fine  sieve  before  being  cooked,  in  order  to  remove 
any  pieces  of  shell  there  may  be  in  them. 

CLAM  SOUP 

Remove  the  clams  from  the  shells  as  soon  as  they  have  opened 
(see  clam  broth,  page  100).  Put  them  in  a  warm  place,  until  the 
juice  is  prepared.  Add  a  cupful  of  hot  milk  to  a  quart  of  juice, 
and  thicken  it  with  a  roux  made  of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour;  then  add  the  clams,  chopped 
fine,  season,  and  bring  the  soup  again  to  the  boiling-point  and 
serve.  Two  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream  served  on  each  plate- 
ful of  soup  is  an  improvement  to  the  dish. 


CREAM  SOUPS 

ONION  SOUP 

(a  very  simple  soup  quickly  made) 

Slice  two  or  three  large  onions ;  fry  them  in  a  tablespoonfnl 
of  butter  or  drippings  until  they  are  soft  and  red,  then  add 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  until  it  is  a  little  cooked. 
To  this  add  slowly  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  stirring  all  the  time, 
so  it  will  be  smooth. 

Boil  and  mash  three  good-sized  potatoes.  Add  to  them  slowly 
a  quart  of  scalded  milk,  stirring  well  so  it  will  be  smooth.  Add 
the  potato  and  milk  mixture  to  the  onion  mixture.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Let  it  get  very  hot,  and  pass  it  through  a 
strainer  into  the  tureen.  Sprinkle  over  the  top  a  little  parsley 
chopped  very  fine,  and  a  few  croutons.  The  soup  will  be  better 
if  stock  is  used  instead  of  water  to  dilute  the  onion  mixture. 

POTATO  SOUP 

Boil  and  mash  three  or  four  potatoes. 

Make  a  roux  of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  half  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  and  one  teaspoonf  ul  of  chopped  onion,  letting 
the  onion  cook  in  the  butter  a  few  minutes  before  adding  the 
flour.  When  the  roux  is  cooked  add  to  it  a  pint  of  milk,  making 
a  thin,  white  sauce.  Add  this  to  the  mashed  potato  and  pass 
the  whole  through  a  strainer.  Return  it  to  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes  to  heat  and  blend  it.    Season  it  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Sprinkle  on  the  soup,  when  it  is  in  the  tureen,  a  teaspoonf  ul 
of  chopped  parsley  and  a  few  croutons. 

105 


106  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

If  the  soup  is  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  milk  or  a  little  hot 
water.  The  roux  prevents  the  milk  and  potato  from  separating, 
and  also  gives  it  smoothness.  The  soup  can  be  made  richer  by- 
using  more  milk,  and  stirring  into  it,  just  before  serving,  the 
beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  This  soup  may  also  be  made  of 
sweet  potatoes. 

TOMATO  BISaUE 

i  can  of  tomatoes.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  quart  of  milk.  ^  saltspoonful  of  pepper. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  1  saltspoonful  of  soda. 
1  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch.  Dash  of  cayenne. 

Stew  the  tomatoes  until  very  soft ;  then  pass  them  through  a 
fine  sieve  or  strainer.  Put  the  strained  tomatoes  into  a  granite- 
ware  saucepan,  and  add  one  saltspoonful  of  soda ;  when  it  has 
ceased  foaming  add  the  butter,  a  small  piece  at  a  time ;  if  put 
in  all  at  once  it  will  show  an  oily  line ;  add  salt,  pepper,  and 
cayenne. 

Put  the  milk  into  a  double  boiler,  and  stir  into  it  a  table- 
spoonful  of  corn-starch  which  has  been  mixed  with  a  little  of  the 
cold  milk,  to  make  it  smooth;  let  it  scald  for  ten  minutes,  or 
long  enough  to  cook  the  corn-starch ;  then  pour  the  milk  into 
the  tomatoes,  beat  well  together,  and  serve  at  once. 

It  is  better  not  to  add  the  milk  to  the  tomatoes  until  just 
ready  to  serve,  for  fear  of  curdling. 

CEEAM  OF  ASFABAOUS;  CREAM  OF  GREEN  FEAS;  CREAM 

OF  STRING  BEANS;  CREAM  OF  SPINACH;  CREAM 

OF  CORN;   CREAM  OF  CELERT 

These  soups  are  very  delicate,  and  are  much  esteemed.  They 
are  all  made  in  the  same  way.  The  vegetable  is  boiled  until 
soft,  and  is  then  pressed  through  a  sieve.  A  pint  of  the  vegetable 
pulp  is  diluted  with  a  quart  of  stock  (the  stock  may  be  veal,  beef, 
or  chicken  broth).  It  is  thickened  with  a  roux  made  of  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  seasoned  with 


CREAM  SOUPS  107 

pepper  and  salt,  and  is  then  strained  again,  so  it  will  be  perfectly 
smooth.  It  is  replaced  on  the  fire,  a  cupful  or  a  half  cupful  of 
cream  added,  and  the  whole  beaten  with  an  egg- whip  to  make  it 
light,  and  is  served  at  once  very  hot.  The  French  thicken  cream 
soups  with  egg-yolks.  In  this  case  two  yolks  would  be  used  for 
the  above  quantity.  The  beaten  yolks  are  diluted  with  the  cream, 
and  cooked  only  just  long  enough  to  set  the  egg.  It  would  cur- 
dle if  allowed  to  boil.  Butter  is  needed  for  seasoning,  and 
where  eggs  are  used  it  should  be  added  in  small  bits  before  the 
cream  and  eggs.  Where  roux  is  used  for  thickening,  there  is 
enough  butter  in  the  roux. 


CEEAM  OF  CLAMS 

25  large  clams.  SmaU  slice  of  onion. 

2    tablespoonf  uls  of  butter.  Dash  of  nutmeg. 

2    tablespooufuls  of  flour.  Salt  and  pepper. 

1^  pints  of  milk.  J  pint  of  cream. 

Wash  the  clam  shells  thoroughly  with  a  brush  and  clear 
water. 

Put  them  into  a  pot  on  the  fire  with  one  half  cup  of  boiling 
water;  cover  and  let  steam  until  the  sheDs  open;  take  out 
the  clams  and  let  the  liquor  settle;  then  strain  it  carefully, 
and  set  aside ;  remove  the  clams  from  the  shells ;  chop  them, 
pound  them  in  a  mortar,  and  press  as  much  of  them  as  possible 
through  a  pur^e  sieve.  Put  the  milk  into  a  double  boiler  with  the 
slice  of  onion.  Put  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  bub- 
bles, stir  into  it  the  flour,  and  let  it  cook  a  few  minutes,  but  not 
brown  ;  add  enough  of  the  milk  slowly  to  make  the  roux  liquid ; 
then  add  it  to  the  milk  in  the  double  boiler,  first  having  re- 
moved the  slice  of  onion ;  add  a  dash  of  nutmeg  and  of  pepper, 
then  the  cream  ;  when  ready  to  serve,  stir  in  the  clam  pulp  and 
one  pint  of  the  clam  liquor ;  taste  to  see  if  salt  will  be  needed. 
After  the  clams  are  added  to  the  milk,  leave  it  on  the  fire  only 
long  enough  to  get  well  heated ;  if  boiled,  the  milk  will  curdle. 


108  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Beat  a  moment  with  an  egg- whisk  to  make  foamy.    If  the  mix- 
ture is  too  thick,  it  may  be  diluted  with  milk  or  cream. 

This  is  good  for  luncheon,  served  in  small  cups,  the  top  cov- 
ered with  a  spoonful  of  whipped  cream. 

CREAM  OF  OTSTEBS 

Scald  a  quart  of  oysters  in  their  own  liquor.  Remove  the 
oysters ;  chop  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  then  press  as  much 
of  them  as  possible  through  a  pur6e  sieve. 

Make  a  roux  of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  flour.  Dilute  it  with  the  oyster  juice.  Add 
the  oyster  pulp ;  season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  and  paprica,  and 
keep  it  hot  until  ready  to  serve.  Just  before  serving  add  a  half 
pint  of  whipped  cream,  and  beat  it  well  into  the  soup.^ 

SOUP  1  LA  HEINE 

Put  a  chicken  into  three  quarts  of  water.  Simmer  it  slowly 
for  two  hours,  or  until  the  chicken  is  very  tender.  A  half  hour 
before  removing  it  add  a  half  pound  of  rice  and  a  bouquet 
containing  one  root  of  parsley,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  a  thin 
slice  of  onion,  and  a  stick  of  celery.  Boil  it  until  the  rice  is 
soft,  then  strain  through  a  colander.  Let  the  broth  cool  and 
remove  the  grease.  Remove  the  white  meat  from  the  bones  of 
the  chicken,  put  it  with  the  rice  in  a  mortar,  and  pound  both  to 
a  pulp.  Pass  the  pulp  through  a  puree  sieve,  moistening  it 
with  a  little  stock  to  make  it  pass  through  easier.  When  ready 
to  serve,  add  the  pur^e  to  the  stock,  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  heat  it  thoroughly  without  boiling.  Just  before  send- 
ing it  to  the  table  add  a  half  pint  of  hot  cream. 

If  desired  the  soup  can  be  thickened  with  a  little  roux,  or 
with  fifteen  blanched  almonds  chopped  and  pounded  to  a  paste, 
using  a  little  cream  to  prevent  the  almonds  from  oiling. 

1  Any  soup  made  of  milk  will  be  greatly  improved  by  adding  a  cupful  of 
hot  cream  jast  before  serving. 
A  little  fish  stock  improves  clam  or  oyster  cream  soup. 


CREAM  SOUPS  109 

BISaUE  OF  LOBSTEB 

Put  into  a  mortar  equal  parts  of  boiled  lobster  meat  and 
boiled  rice  j  pound  them  to  a  pulp ;  then  add  enough  broth  to 
dilute  it;  season  with  salt  and  papriea.  Pass  it  through  a 
sieve.  Heat  it  without  boiling,  and  then  add  enough  Bechamel 
sauce  to  make  it  the  consistency  of  cream  soup ;  lastly,  add  to 
each  quart  of  soup  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lobster  butter,  add- 
ing a  little  at  a  time,  and  stirring  untU  the  butter  is  melted.  In- 
stead of  the  lobster  butter,  plain  butter  may  be  used,  and  the 
coral  of  the  lobster,  dried  and  pounded  to  a  powder,  stirred  in 
at  the  same  time.    Serve  croiitons  with  the  bisque. 

LOBSTEB  BUTTEB 

After  the  meat  is  removed  from  the  lobster,  take  all  the  rest 
(except  the  lady,  woolly  gills  and  intestine),  including  the  shell, 
and  put  it  into  a  mortar  with  twice  its  weight  of  butter.  Pound 
it  to  a  pulp ;  then  place  it  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  cook 
until  the  butter  is  melted.  Strain  it  ^-hrough  a  cloth.  Beat  the 
strained  butter  until  it  is  cold.  If  not  a  deep  enough  color,  add 
a  very  little  cochineal. 


CHOWDERS 

POTATO  CHOWDEE 

6  good-sized  potatoes.  1  pint  milk  or  cream. 

^  lb.  salt  pork.  1  pint  water. 

1  onion.  1  tablesp'ful  chopped  parsley. 

1  tablespoonful  butter.  1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  tablespoonful  flour.  ^  teaspoonful  pepper. 

Cut  the  potatoes  into  dice,  cut  the  pork  into  small  pieces,  and 
put  it  with  the  sliced  onion  into  a  frying  pan,  and  fry  until  a 
light  brown. 

Put  into  a  kettle  a  layer  of  potatoes,  then  a  layer  of  onions 
and  pork,  and  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  parsley. 
Repeat  this  until  aU  the  potatoes,  pork,  onions,  and  parsley  are 
in.  Pour  over  them  the  grease  from  the  pan  in  which  the  pork 
and  onions  were  fried.  Add  one  pint  of  water,  cover,  and  let 
simmer  twenty  minutes.  Scald  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler, 
and  add  it  to  a  roux  made  of  the  flour  and  butter.  Add  this 
to  the  pot  when  the  potatoes  are  tender,  and  stir  carefully  to- 
gether, so  as  not  to  break  the  potatoes.  Taste  to  see  if  the 
seasoning  is  right.     Serve  very  hot. 

This  is  a  good  dish  for  luncheon,  or  for  supper  in  the  country. 

FISH  CHOWDEB 

3  lbs.  fresh  fish.  ^  lb.  salt  pork. 

3  large  potatoes.  1  pint  milk. 

1  large  onion.  3  ship  crackers. 

Pepper  and  salt. 
Cut  the  fish,  the  potatoes,  and  the  onion  into  slices.     Cut  the 
pork  into  half-inch  dice.    Put  the  pork  and  the  onion  into  a 

uo 


SOUPS  111 

pan  and  saut§  them  a  light  brown.  Place  in  alternate  layers 
in  a  large  saucepan  first  potatoes,  then  fish,  then  pork  and 
onion ;  dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  continue  in  this  order 
until  all  the  materials  are  used.  Cover  the  whole  with  boiling 
water  and  let  the  mixture  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Scald  a 
pint  of  milk  or  of  cream,  take  it  off  the  fire  and  add  one  and  a 
half  tablespoonf  uls  of  butter  and  three  broken  ship  crackers  or 
the  same  quantity  of  water  biscuits.  Arrange  the  fish  mixture 
in  a  mound  on  a  dish,  cover  it  with  the  softened  crackers,  and 
pour  over  the  whole  the  hot  milk. 

CLAM  GHOWDEB 

50  clams.  1  tablespoonful  butter. 

1  medium-sized  onion.  2  tablespoonfuls  flour. 

6  oz.  salt  pork.  1  pint  of  milk  or  cream. 

3  large  potatoes.  1  saltspoonf  ul  of  mace. 

1  teaspoonful  salt.  1  saltspoonful  of  thyme. 

^  teaspoonful  pepper.  3  ship  crackers. 

Put  the  clams,  with  theii*  own  liquor,  into  a  saucepan  on  the 
fire.  When  they  have  boiled  three  minutes,  remove  the  clams  and 
return  the  liquor  to  the  fire.  Cut  the  pork  into  slices.  Chop 
an  onion  and  fry  it  with  the  pork  until  both  are  browned.  Then 
stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  When  the  flour  is  cooked, 
add  slowly  the  clam  liquor,  a  dash  of  mace  and  thyme,  and  salt, 
if  necessary ;  then  add  three  parboUed  potatoes  cut  into  dice, 
and  cook  until  the  potatoes  are  tender.  When  ready  to  serve 
add  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream,  the  clams  cut  into  pieces,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  broken  ship  crackers  or  any  hard  water 
cracker. 


Cooking. 


Freshness. 


Dressing. 


Keeping 

Frozen 

Fish. 


Trimming. 


The  bones. 


To  skin, 
bone,  and 

remove 
the  fillets. 


Chaptee  m 
FISH 

It  is  essential  that  fish  should  be  perfectly  fresh, 
thoroughly  cleaned,  and  carefully  cooked.  If  under- 
done it  is  not  eatable;  if  cooked  too  long  it  loses 
flavor  and  becomes  dry.  The  sooner  it  is  cooked 
after  being  taken  from  the  water,  the  better.  When 
fresh,  the  eyes  are  bright,  the  gills  red,  the  flesh  firm 
and  odorless.  Ordinarily  the  fishman  removes  the 
scales  and  draws  the  fish  before  delivering  it ;  but  if 
not,  this  should  be  done  at  once,  and  the  fish  thor- 
oughly washed,  but  not  allowed  to  soak  in  water, 
then  wiped  dry  and  put  into  the  refrigerator,  on  the  ice, 
the  skin  side  down,  but  not  in  the  same  compai*tment 
with  butter,  milk,  or  other  foods  which  absorb  flavors. 

Fish  that  are  frozen  should  be  laid  in  cold  water 
until  thawed,  but  not  allowed  to  remain  in  the  water 
after  they  become  flexible. 

The  head  and  tail  should  be  left  on,  and  the  fins 
trimmed,  of  any  fiish  which  is  to  be  served  whole. 

"When  the  fillets  only  are  to  be  used,  the  head  and 
bones  may  be  used  for  a  fish  soup. 

To  separate  a  fish,  cut  through  the  skin  all  around, 
then,  beginning  at  the  head,  loosen  the  skin  and  strip 
it  down.  By  putting  salt  on  the  hand  a  firmer  grasp 
may  be  obtained,  and  with  the  aid  of  a  knife  the  skin 
can  be  removed  without  tearing  the  flesh.  After  the 
skin  is  taken  off  from  both  sides,  slip  the  knife  under 

112 


the  flesh,  and  keeping  it  close  to  the  bone,  remove  the 
fillets.  The  fillets  may  then  be  cut  into  two  or  more 
pieces  according  to  the  size  of  the  fish,  care  being 
used  to  have  them  of  uniform  size  and  shape. 

Fillets  taken  from  small  fish  and  from  flounders  or 
other  flat  fish  are  sometimes  rolled  and  held  until 
cooked  with  smaU  skewers.  Wooden  toothpicks  serve 
this  purpose  very  well. 

Fish  containing  many  bones  are  not  suitable  for 
fiUets. 

TO  CAEVE  PISH 

Run  a  knife  down  the  back,  cutting  through  the 
sMn.  Remove  the  fins.  Then  cut  into  even  pieces  on 
one  side.  When  these  pieces  are  served,  remove  the 
bone,  and  cut  the  under  side  in  the  same  way. 

TO   BOn.    FISH 

Add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  tablespoonful 
of  vinegar  to  every  two  quarts  of  water,  and  use  suffi- 
cient water  to  entirely  cover  the  fish.  The  salt  and 
vinegar  serve  to  whiten  and  harden,  as  well  as  to  sea- 
son the  meat.  A  bay-leaf  and  soup  vegetables  in  the 
water  improve  the  flavor  of  cod  and  some  other  flsh. 
The  fish  must  not  be  put  into  cold  water,  as  that  ex- 
tracts the  flavor;  nor  into  boiling  water,  as  that  breaks 
the  skin  and  gives  it  a  ragged  appearance.  Lower 
the  fish  gradually  into  warm  water,  let  it  come  quickly 
to  the  boiling  point,  then  draw  to  the  side  of  the 
range,  where  it  will  simmer  only,  until  done. 

Allow  ten  minutes  to  the  pound  after  the  water  has      T™e. 
begun  to  simmer. 

A  fish  kettle,  with  strainer,  is  requisite  for  boiling  The  Kettle, 
a  fish  whole.     A  plate  held  in  a  piece  of  cheese  cloth 
may  be  used  for  smaller  pieces.    When  the  fish  is 
done  the  strainer  should  be  lifted  out  carefully  and 
placed  across  the  kettle  until  the  fish  is  weU  drained. 

8 


114 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


To  boil  a 
fish  whole. 


Serving. 


Gamishes. 


Sauces. 


A  boiled  as  well  as  a  baked  fish  is  more  attractive 
served  upright  as  if  swimming.  To  hold  it  in  this 
position,  place  a  carrot  inside  the  fish  to  give  it  round- 
ness and  stability,  and  prop  it  on  both  sides  with 
pieces  of  carrot  or  turnip.  The  head  must  be  wrapped 
with  cord  or  a  strip  of  cheese  cloth  to  keep  it  from 
losing  shape,  and  the  whole  held  in  position  by  strings 
going  around  the  strainer  (see  illustration).  If  a  fish 
is  too  large  for  the  kettle,  it  may  be  cut  into  halves 
or  thirds,  and  when  cooked  laid  carefully  together  on 
the  dish  and  garnishing  placed  over  the  cuts. 

Boiled  fish  is  served  on  a  napkin,  and  garnished 
with  parsley.  This  may  be  so  arranged  as  to  conceal 
any  defects. 

Slices  of  lemon,  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped 
pickle,  or  capers  may  also  be  used  for  garnishing. 
Boiled  potato  balls  may  be  served  on  the  same  dish. 

Boiled  fish  needs  a  rich  white  sauce.  Drawn  butter, 
egg,  HoUandaise,  or  B6chamel  sauces  are  generally 
used. 


FISH  PBEPAEED  TO   BOIL  I\    I  PKKiHT    POSITION.      (SEE   PAGE  114.) 


SLICES  OF  CODFISH  BOILED  OB   BAUT^D   AND   BESTED  AGAIK8T  A   WEDGE  SHAPED 

BREAD  SUPPORT  AND  GARNISHED  WITH  BOILED  OR  FRIED  POTATO  BALLS, 

WATER-CRESS,  AND   LEMON. 


FISH 

COUET  BOUILLOIT 

Court  bouillon  is  used  for  boiling  fresh-water  fish  or  others 
which  are  without  much  flavor.     It  may  be  prepared  before- 
hand, and  used  several  times,  or  the  vegetables  may  be  added 
at  the  time  the  fish  is  boiled. 
Fry    in    1    tablespoonf  ul     of    Then  add  2  quarts  of  hot  water, 

butter,  1  cup  of  vinegar  or  wine, 

1  chopped  carrot,  3  peppercorns, 

1  chopped  onion,  3  cloves, 

1  stalk  of  celery.  1  bay-leaf, 

1  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt. 

BAKED  FISH 

After  the  fish  is  caref uUy  washed  and  dried,  put  in  the  stuffing, 
and  sew  up  the  opening  with  a  trussing  needle ;  then  cut  three 
gashes  in  each  side  of  the  fish,  and  lay  a  lardoon  of  salt  pork  in 
each  cut.  Next,  run  a  trussing  needle,  holding  a  double  white 
cotton  cord,  through  the  head,  the  middle  of  the  body,  and  the 
tail.  Draw  the  fish  into  the  shape  of  the  letter  S,  and  tie  the 
cord  firmly.  In  order  to  cook  evenly,  it  is  better  to  have  the 
fish  upright,  and  by  trussing  as  directed  it  will  hold  that  posi- 
tion. Dredge  the  fish  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  and  lay  it  on 
slices  of  larding  pork  in  a  baking  pan.  Place  also  over  the 
back  slices  of  pork.  Allow  fifteen  minutes  to  each  pound,  and 
baste  frequently.  The  pork  should  supply  sufficient  liquid  for 
basting ;  if  not,  add  a  very  little  water.  The  fish  can  be  more 
easily  removed  if  a  baking  sheet  is  used  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pan.    (See  illustration  facing  page  118.) 

Serve  with  a  brown  sauce.     Garnish  with  lemon  and  parsley. 

Haddock,  bluefish,  shad,  and  bass  are  good  for  baking, 

115 


116  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

STUFFDTGS  FOR  BAKED  FISH 

Put  a  large  tablespoonf  ul  of  butter  into  a  saucepan.    When 
melted  stir  into  it 
1  cupful  of  cracker    or   dry    Iteaspoonful  of  chopped  capers, 

bread  crumbs,  ^  teaspoonful  salt, 

1  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion,    J  teaspoonful  pepper, 
1  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
K  a  moist  stuffing  is  preferred,  add  one  quarter  cupful  of 
milk,  stock  or  water. 

BREAD   STUFFING 

Fry  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  chopped  onion  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter.  Add  a  cupful  or  more  of  stale  bread,  which  has  been 
soaked  in  hot  water,  then  pressed  dry.  A  tablespoonful  each 
of  chopped  parsley,  suet,  and  celery,  one  quarter  teaspoonful 
each  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  dash  of  powdered  thyme  (if 
liked).  When  it  is  well  mixed,  remove  from  the  fire  and  add 
an  egg. 

TO  BROU  FISH 

Fish  to  be  broiled  are  split  down  the  back.  After  being 
washed  and  well  dried,  they  should  be  rubbed  with  oil  or  but- 
ter, or  the  skin  floured,  to  keep  from  sticking.  The  broiler 
should  be  made  hot  and  greased  with  a  piece  of  salt  pork  before 
the  fish  is  laid  on.  The  hot  wires  will  sear  the  lines  which 
should  always  show  on  broiled  dishes.  The  fire  must  be  clear 
and  hot  for  smaU  fish,  more  moderate  for  large  ones,  so  the 
outside  may  not  be  burned  before  the  inside  is  cooked.  When 
there  is  danger  of  this,  the  broiler  may  be  laid  on  a  pan  in  the 
oven  to  complete  the  cooking.  The  broiler  should  be  turned  as 
often  as  the  cook  counts  ten,  and  as  the  skin  burns  easHy,  it 
must  be  carefully  watched.  When  d:  :e,  the  wires  should  be 
carefully  raised  from  both  sides  so  as  n  t  to  break  the  meat, 
and  the  fish  turned  on  to  a  hot  dish  ana  spread  with  butter, 
salt,  and  pepper,  or  better,  a  maitre  d'  h6tel  ...^uce.  This  sauce 
makes  a  more  evenly  distributed  mixture.    A  wreath  of  water- 


FISH  117 

cresses  laid  around  the  fish  makes  a  good  garnisli,  and  is  an 
acceptable  accompaniment  to  any  broiled  dish.  Lemon  is  also 
used  for  garnish  and  flavor. 

Shad,  bluefish,  and  mackerel  are  most  frequently  cooked  in 
this  way. 

TO  SAUTE  FISH 

Small  or  pan  fish,  and  fish  cut  into  slices,  are  often  saut6d. 
After  the  fish  is  washed  and  dried,  dredge  it  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  roll  in  flour,  then  dip  in  egg  and  roll  in  bread  crumbs, 
cracker  dust,  or  in  corn-meal.  Put  into  a  frying-pan  a  few 
pieces  of  salt  pork,  and  after  sufiicient  grease  has  tried  out,  lay 
in  the  fish  j  or  one  tablespoonf ul  of  lard  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  may  be  used  instead  of  the  fat  pork.  Butter  burns,  and 
should  not  be  used  alone.  The  grease  must  be  very  hot,  and  only 
enough  of  it  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  one  eighth  of  an 
inch  deep.  Turn  the  fish  with  a  broad  knife  or  pancake  turner, 
and  with  care  to  not  break  the  meat.  When  cooked  an  amber 
color  it  is  ready  to  turn. 

Slices  of  halibut  should  be  marinated  (see  page  79)  before 
being  coated  with  flour.  Lay  the  fish  or  slices  overlapping  each 
other  on  a  hot  dish.  Serve  with  quarters  of  lemon,  and  garnish 
with  parsley.    (See  illustrations  facing  pages  114  and  124.) 

TO  FRY  FISH 

Fish  to  be  fried  are  first  well  washed  and  dried,  then  dredged 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  then  dipped  in  egg,  and  rolled  in 
bread  or  cracker  crumbs.  The  fish  should  be  completely  in- 
cased in  the  egg  and  crumbs,  leaving  no  opening  for  the  grease 
to  enter.  The  same  rule  applies  to  frying  fish  as  to  other  arti- 
cles (see  page  72).  They  must  have  entire  immersion,  and  the 
fat  smoking  hot. 

TO  FRY    SMELTS 

Smelts,  after  being  washed,  dried,  and  sprinkled  with  salt  and 
pepper,  are  dipped  in  egg,  then  rolled  in  bread  or  cracker 
crumbs.      The  head  and  tail  pinned  together  with  a  small 


118  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

skewer,  or  wooden  tooth-pick  (to  be  removed  after  they  are 
fried),  makes  them  into  rings,  and  is  a  pretty  way  of  serving 
them  either  by  themselves  or  for  garnishing  other  fish  dishes. 
Cook  only  as  many  as  will  cover  the  bottom  of  the  frying-basket 
at  one  time  (see  rules  for  frying,  page  72).  Dress  the  smelts  on  a 
folded  napkin,  and  serve  with  Mayonnaise  or  with  Tartare  sauce. 

PRIED  SMELTS  ON  SEEWEES 

Use  medium  sized  smelts,  clean  carefully,  and  wipe  them  dry. 
Dredge  them  with  salt  and  pepper;  dip  them  in  egg  and  roll 
them  in  crumbs.  String  three  or  four  on  each  skewer,  the 
skewer  passing  through  the  eyes.  Place  them  in  a  frying- 
basket,  a  few  at  a  time,  and  immerse  in  very  hot  fat.  Pre- 
pare at  a  time  only  as  many  as  will  go  in  the  frying-basket. 
The  time  given  to  rolling  them  is  only  as  long  as  required  for 
the  fat  to  regain  the  right  degree  of  heat.  Dress  on  a  napkin 
and  serve  with  Mayonnaise,  Tartare  sauce,  or  quarters  of  lemon. 

BBOUED  SMELTS 

Split  the  smelts  down  the  back  and  remove  the  bone.  Lay 
them  on  a  hot  broiler,  which  has  been  rubbed  with  suet,  to  pre- 
vent sticking.  Broil  over  hot  coals  for  two  minutes  on  each 
side.  Put  into  a  dish  some  Bechamel  sauce,  and  lay  the  broiled 
fish  on  the  sauce,  or  they  may  be  spread  with  maitre  d'  hdtel 
sauce.    Serve  at  once  while  very  hot. 

FRIED  FILLETS  OF  FISH 

Remove  fillets  as  directed  on  page  112.  Dip  them  in  salted  milk, 
roll  in  flour,  then  in  egg  and  fresh  bread  crumbs.  Fry  as  soon 
as  prepared  in  hot  fat.  Fillets  may  also  be  cooked  by  sauteing. 
Arrange  the  fillets  on  a  napkin  or  hot  dish,  overlapping  each 
other.    Serve  with  B6amaise,  Mayonnaise  or  Tartare  sauce. 

WHITEBAIT 

Wash  the  whitebait  with  great  care,  and  dry  well  by  rubbing 
them  in  a  napkin.    Roll  them  in  flour,  using  enough  to  entirely 


iK'nnii I  m  ■■III  ■iMMMiLL 

WHITEBAIT.      (8KE  PAGE  118.) 


FISH  119 

cover  them.  Toss  them  on  a  sieve  to  shake  off  the  loose  flour. 
Place  them  in  a  fine  wire  basket,  and  immerse  in  smoking  hot 
fat  for  one  minute,  or  just  long  enough  to  give  them  a  light 
amber  color.  The  fish  are  so  small,  it  takes  but  a  moment  to 
cook  them,  and  there  is  danger  of  burning  them  by  leaving  them 
in  the  fat  too  long.  They  should  be  crisp  and  dry.  Only  enough 
to  make  one  layer  on  the  bottom  of  the  basket  should  be  fried 
at  once.  Too  many  wiU  cool  the  fat,  and  also  wiU  stick  together. 
The  fat  must  be  brought  to  the  right  degree  of  heat  before  put- 
ting in  the  second  basketful.  They  should  be  floured  only  just 
before  going  into  the  fat.  The  flour  becomes  damp  if  it  re- 
mains on  the  fish  for  any  time,  and  they  will  then  neither  take 
color  nor  become  crisp.  Turn  them  on  to  a  paper,  sprinkle  with 
salt,  and  keep  them  in  a  warm  oven  until  all  are  cooked.  Have 
a  hot  dish  with  a  folded  napkin  on  it  standing  on  the  warming 
shelf.  Place  the  whitebait  between  the  folds  of  the  napkin, 
and  serve  immediately.  They  cool  rapidly,  and  should  not  be 
cooked  until  just  in  time  to  serve.  They  are  easily  prepared, 
and  very  nice  when  crisp  and  hot,  but  will  not  be  right  unless 
care  is  given  to  the  small  details. 
Serve  with  quarters  of  lemon. 


BOILED  HAIIBXTT  STEAKS 

Lay  two  chicken  halibut  steaks  into  a  shallow  stew  pan,  suffi- 
ciently large  to  allow  them  to  lie  side  by  side.  Cover  them  with 
court  bouillon  or  with  hot  water,  and  add  a  slice  of  carrot, 
onion,  piece  of  celery,  bay-leaf,  four  cloves,  six  peppercorns, 
and  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Let  simmer  until  done.  Or  they 
may  be  put  into  a  baking  pan,  with  a  little  water,  covered  with 
another  pan  or  greased  paper,  and  steamed  in  the  oven  until 
cooked.  Lift  out  the  slices  with  a  skimmer  and  broad  knife, 
and  with  care  not  to  break  them ;  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish,  one  a 
little  overlapping  the  other. 

Garnish  with  boiled  potato  balls,  and  serve  with  egg  or  with 
HoUandaise  sauce.    (See  illustration  facing  page  124.) 


120  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

HAIIBUT  — TURKISH  STYLE 

(receipt  given  at  one  of  MBS.  rorer's  lectures) 

Place  on  the  bottom  of  a  baking  pan  two  or  three  slices  of 
onion,  then  a  cutlet  of  halibut,  and  put  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  butter 
cut  into  smaU.  bits  over  the  top  of  the  fish.  Cut  three  skinned 
tomatoes  into  quarters,  slice  a  sweet  green  pepper  into  ribbons, 
and  put  the  tomatoes  and  pepper  on  the  fish.  Put  the  pan  on 
the  shelf  of  the  oven  to  cook  first  the  vegetables,  but  do  not  let 
it  remain  there  long  enough  to  discolor  or  change  their  shape; 
then  remove  it  to  the  bottom  of  the  oven,  baste  it  well,  and 
finish  the  cooking.  When  done  place  it  carefully  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  pour  over  it  the  juice  from  the  pan.  The  fish  should  retain 
its  whiteness,  and  the  vegetables  their  color,  giving  a  very  pretty 
as  well  as  delicious  dish. 

SCALLOPED  FISH 

2  pounds  bftUbut  or  any  white 

fish,  boiled  with  4  cloves, 

1  slice  onion,  1  bay -leaf, 

1  stalk  celery.  Juice  of  one-half  a  lemon, 

1  sprig  parsley,  1  cupful  white  sauce, 

6  peppercorns,  Mashed  potato. 

Boil  two  pounds  of  fish  in  court  bouillon  until  tender  enough 
to  flake.  Make  a  white  sauce  of  one  tablespoonful  butter,  one 
tablespoonful  flour,  one  cupful  of  milk,  salt,  pepper,  and 
cayenne.  (See  white  sauce,  page  278.)  Boil  four  mediimi-sized 
potatoes,  mash  them,  and  season  with  one  half  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  little  cream  or 
milk;  beat  them  until  light,  then  add  the  whites  of  four  eggs 
beaten  stiff. 

Fill  a  baking  dish  one  haK  full  of  the  flaked  fish,  pour  over  it 
the  white  sauce,  and  cover  the  top  with  potato,  leaving  the 
potato  rough  and  irregular.  Place  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  min- 
utes, or  until  browned.     Cream  may  be  substituted  for  the 


FISH  121 

white  sauce,  and  enough  used  to  moisten  well  the  fish.    Shells 
or  individual  cups  may  be  used  instead  of  a  baking  dish. 

SCALLOPED  FISH  AU  GRATIN 

Make  a  Bechamel  sauce  (see  page  279).  Take  some  seasoned 
mashed  potato,  and  mix  with  it  one  beaten  egg.  Make  with 
the  potato  a  border  around  a  flat  dish.  In  the  center  of  the 
ring  of  potato  spread  a  layer  of  sauce,  over  this  a  layer  of 
flaked  cod  fish,  then  another  layer  of  sauce  and  fish,  cover  the 
top  with  sauce,  sprinkle  it  with  bread  crumbs  and  grated  cheese 
(parmesan  or  dairy),  and  a  few  pieces  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  hot 
oven  until  browned,  and  serve  in  the  same  dish.  The  potato 
border  may  be  made  ornamental  by  pressing  the  potato  through 
a  pastry  bag  with  tube,  the  same  as  is  used  for  potato  roses  (see 
page  202).  The  potato  will  not  hold  its  form  unless  egg  is  mixed 
with  it. 

White  sauce  may  be  used  instead  of  Bechamel,  but  is  not  quite 
as  good.  One  layer  of  fish  in  large  flakes,  covered  with  sauce, 
crumbs,  and  cheese,  and  browned  with  a  border  of  boiled  potato 
balls  laid  around  regularly,  is  also  a  good  way  of  serving  it 
when  a  small  quantity  is  needed. 

FISH  CHOPS 

1  pound  or  1  pint  of  fish.       1  cupful  of  mUk  or  cream. 
1  teaspoonful  of  salt.  1  tablespoonful  of  butter. 

^  teaspoonful  of  pepper.        2  rounded  tablespoonfuls  flour. 
^  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Yolks  of  two  eggs. 
1  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Put  in  a  double  boiler  one  cupful  of  cream  or  milk;  when 
scalded,  stir  into  it  the  butter  and  flour  rubbed  together,  and 
cook  for  five  minutes.  Remove  from  the  fire  and  mix  in,  stir- 
ring all  the  time,  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  put  again  on  the 
fire,  and  stir  until  thickened. 

Take  one  pound  or  pint  of  shredded  boiled  fish,  sprinkle  over 
it  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one 


122  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

tablespoonf  ul  of  chopped  parsley,  ten  drops  of  lemon  juice.  Mix 
the  seasoned  fish  with  the  white  sauce,  then  spread  it  on  a  dish 
and  set  aside  for  several  hours  to  cool  and  stiffen.  It  will  not 
be  difficult  to  mold  if  it  stands  long  enough.  Take  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  the  mixture  in  the  hands,  and  mold  into  the  form  of 
chops,  round  at  one  end  and  pointed  at  the  other  j  roll  the 
chops  in  crumbs,  then  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  coarse  bread 
crumbs  grated  from  the  loaf  (see  croquettes,  page  293).  After 
the  chops  are  molded  let  them  stand  for  a  time  to  stiffen  before 
frying.  Place  them  in  a  basket  four  at  a  time,  and  immerse  in 
hot  fat  until  an  amber  color.  Place  on  a  paper  to  dry.  When 
all  are  done  pierce  a  small  hole  in  the  pointed  end  with  a  fork, 
and  insert  ti  sprig  of  parsley.  Dress  on  a  napkin,  and  serve 
with  tomato,  B6arnaise,  or  Hollandaise  sauce.  Any  kind  of  fish 
may  be  used  for  the  chops.    (See  illustration  facing  page  130.) 

FILLETS  BAKED  WITH  GUSTABD   OR  TOMATOES 

Remove  the  fillets  from  any  white  fish,  dredge  them  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  lay  them  in  a  baking  pan,  one  on  top  of  the 
other.    Beat  two  eggs,  and  add  to  them 

2  cupfuls  of  milk,  1  saltspoonful  of  nutmeg, 

1  saltspoonful  of  salt,  3  soda  crackers  rolled  to 

1  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  powder. 

Put  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  butter  into  the  pan  with  the  fish, 
and  set  it  in  the  oven.  When  the  butter  is  melted,  add  one  haJf 
the  milk  mixture,  and  baste  the  fish  with  it  frequently.  When 
the  custard  becomes  set  add  a  little  more  of  the  milk,  and  con- 
tinue the  operation  until  the  fish  is  cooked.  Lift  the  fish  care- 
fully from  the  pan  with  a  pancake  turner  and  broad  knife. 
Place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  pile  on  the  top  the  fiakes  of  custard. 
Instead  of  the  milk  mixture  tomato  may  be  used  if  preferred. 

To  one  half  can  of  tomato  add 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt,  1  slice  of  onion, 

J  teaspoonful  of  thyme,  1  bay-leaf, 

i  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  3  cloves. 


FISH  123 

The  whole  of  the  tomato  mixture  may  be  put  in  the  pan  as 
soon  as  the  butter  is  melted. 

GOLD  FISH 

Any  kind  of  fish  which  is  good  boiled  may  be  served  cold,  and 
in  summer  is  often  more  acceptable  in  this  way.  Bass,  trout, 
halibut,  salmon,  and  bluefish  are  recommended.  Serve  with  coid 
Beamaise,  Mayonnaise,  or  Tartare  sauce.  Grarnish  with  lettuce 
leaves  or  water-cresses,  and  hard-boiled  eggs. 

FISH  PUDDING 

1    pound  or  pint  boiled  halibut.  1^  teaspoonf  uls  salt. 

J    cupful  of  cream  or  milk.  J    teaspoonful  pepper. 

1^  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  ^    teaspoonful  onion  juice. 

J    tablespoonf  ul  of  flour.  2    eggs. 

Pound  the  fish  in  a  mortar  until  it  is  thoroughly  mashed, 
then  rub  it  through  a  pur6e  sieve  j  season  the  fish  pulp  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  onion  juice.  Put  the  butter  into  a  saucepan 
when  melted,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  then 
add  slowly  the  cream  or  milk,  stirring  constantly  until  well 
scalded;  then  add  the  fish  pulp,  take  from  the  fire,  add  the 
beaten  eggs,  and  mix  thoroughly. 

Butter  well  a  border  or  ring  mold  holding  a  pint  or  little 
more;  put  in  the  mixture,  pressing  it  well  against  the  sides  to 
remove  any  air  bubbles.  Cover  the  mold  with  a  greased  paper, 
and  set  in  a  pan  of  warm  water  covering  one  half  the  mold. 
Place  in  moderate  oven  for  thirty  minutes,  and  do  not  let  the 
water  boil.  Place  the  form  of  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  fill  the  center 
with  boiled  potato  balls  (see  page  203),  pour  over  the  potato  balls 
some  Bechamel  or  some  white  sauce,  sprinkle  chopped  parsley 
over  the  top.  Serve  with  the  fish  a  generous  amount  of  Becha- 
mel or  of  white  sauce.    This  is  a  very  good  dish. 

FISH  TIMBALE 

Cut  one  pound  of  very  fresh  white  uncooked  fish  into  small 
pieces,  put  it  in  a  mortar,  and  pound  until  the  fiber  is  well  sep- 


124  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

arated  from  tlie  meat,  then  press  it  tlirougli  a  puree  sieve.  To 
every  cupful  of  fish  pulp  add  one  tablespoonful  of  bread 
crumbs  soaked  in  milk  or  cream  untU  soft  and  then  pressed 
through  a  sieve  j  add  also  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg,  ten  drops 
of  onion  juice,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  quarter  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  a  dash  of  nutmeg.  Beat  all  well  together  and 
for  some  time,  to  make  it  light;  then  for  every  cupful  of  pulp 
beat  in  lightly  the  whites  of  two  eggs  whipped  very  stiff.  Put 
the  mixture  into  a  well  buttered  mold,  filling  it  only  three  quar- 
ters full,  set  it  into  a  pan  of  warm  water,  covering  three  quar- 
ters of  the  mold,  cover  the  mold  with  a  greased  paper,  and  place 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Do  not  let  the  water 
boil.  Turn  the  timbale  on  to  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  around,  but 
not  over  it,  a  Bechamel  or  a  tomato  sauce.  This  is  a  very  deli- 
cate fish  dish,  and  is  particularly  good  when  made  of  shad. 

FISH  DISH  FOR  A  PmX  LUITCHEON 

Cut  halibut  or  any  firm  white  fish  into  cutlets  three  quarters 
of  an  inch  thick,  two  inches  wide,  and  three  inches  long. 
Dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  and  paprica.  Lay  them  in  a  pan  so 
they  do  not  touch,  cover  with  salted  water,  cover  the  pan,  and 
let  them  steam  in  the  oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  until 
cooked,  but  remove  while  they  are  still  firm  enough  to  retain 
shape.  Pound  the  trimmings  of  the  fish  in  a  mortar,  pass  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  to  one  half  cupful  of  the  fish  pulp  add  a 
thickening  made  as  follows :  put  a  dessert-spoonful  of  butter  in 
a  saucepan  on  the  fire ;  when  it  is  melted  add  a  dessert-spoonful 
of  flour,  cook  for  a  minute  without  coloring,  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk,  a  quarter  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
dash  of  pepper,  remove  it  from  the  fire.  Stir  in  the  half  cupful 
of  fish  pulp  and  one  beaten  egg ;  color  it  a  delicate  pink  with 
a  few  drops  of  cochineal,  beat  the  whole  until  light,  and  spread 
the  cutlets  of  fish  with  this  mixture  one  quarter  inch  thick; 
smooth  it  carefully  on  top  and  sides  with  a  wet  knife.  Place 
the  pieces  in  a  pan,  cover,  set  it  into  another  pan  containing 


FISH  STEAKS  SAUTKD  OR  BOILED,   GARNISHED  WITH   POTATO  BALLS,  WATERCRESS, 

AND  LEMON. 


L 


CREAMED    FISH    IN    SHELI>S. 


FISH  '  126 

hot  water,  and  let  steam  in  the  oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes. Range  the  pieces  standing  on  end  around  a  socle  of  rice 
or  hominy  (see  page  326)  ;mask  the  top  of  the  socle  with  prawns, 
or  with  parsley,  or  with  water  cresses,  and  a  few  pink  roses  or 
pink  carnations.  Serve  with  HoUandaise  sauce,  colored  green 
or  pink. 

The  pink  cutlets  may  be  garnished  with  capers,  or  with  a  thin 
slice  of  pickle  cut  into  fancy  shape  with  cutter. 

EOLLED   FILLETS  OF  FLOUNDEB 

Select  flounders  of  uniform  size,  and  large  enough  to  make 
two  strips  about  two  and  a  half  inches  wide  on  each  side,  each 
fish  giving  four  fillets.  Marinate  them,  or  else  dredge  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  dip  into  butter.  Roll  them,  beginning  at  the 
broad  end,  and  fasten  with  a  wooden  took-pick.  Egg  and 
bread-crumb  them,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  for  seven  minutes.  Fry 
only  four  at  a  time,  that  the  fat  may  not  be  too  much  cooled 
when  they  go  in.  Remove  the  skewer  carefully,  and  serve  with 
r^moulade,  Tartare,  or  tomato  sauce. 

SHAD 

Shad  may  be  broiled,  and  spread  with  maitre  d'  h6tel  sauce ; 
stuffed  and  baked,  and  served  with  brown  sauce ;  or  it  may  be 
boiled  and  served  with  HoUandaise,  Bechamel,  or  egg  sauce. 

PLANKED   SHAD 

Have  a  hardwood  board  one  and  a  half  or  two  inches  thick. 
Split  the  shad  as  for  broiling,  place  it  on  the  board  with  the  skin 
side  down,  and  fasten  with  a  few  tacks ;  place  the  board  before 
the  fire,  and  roast  untU  done;  rub  it  from  time  to  time  with  a 
little  butter.  The  plank  should  be  well-seasoned,  and  be  heated 
before  placing  the  shad  on  it,  or  it  will  impart  the  flavor  of  the 
wood  to  the  fish. 

A  substitute  for  this  mode  of  cooking  is  to  put  into  a  baking- 
pan  a  tablespoonful  of  drippings;  when  very  hot  lay  in  the  shad 


126  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

with  the  skin  side  up,  place  it  under  the  coals,  and  when  the 
skin  is  puffed  and  blistered  it  is  done.  Turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish, 
dredge  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  with  bits  of  butter,  and 
serve  with  quarters  of  lemon. 

BROILED  SHAD  ROE 

Wash  and  dry  the  roe  with  care  not  to  break  the  skin,  place 
it  on  a  well  greased  broiler,  and  rub  it  with  butter  once  or  twice 
during  the  time  of  broiling;  cook  to  a  nice  brown,  place  it  on  a 
hot  dish,  and  cover  with  a  maitre  d'  hdtel  sauce. 

Garnish  the  dish  with  a  wreath  of  water  cresses.  This  makes 
a  good  fish  course  for  luncheon.  Shad  roe  may  also  be  cooked 
in  a  saute-pan,  using  one  half  butter  and  one  half  drippings  or 
lard. 

SHAD  ROE  CROaUETTES,  NO.  1 

Put  the  roes  from  two  fishes  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  sim- 
mer for  fifteen  minutes ;  when  cool,  remove  the  skin,  and  mash 
them  with  a  fork,  so  the  little  eggs  will  be  separated  but  not 
broken;  scald  one  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  and  stir  into  it  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  rubbed 
together.  Take  the  paste  on  a  spoon,  and  stir  it  in  the  cream 
until  dissolved.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs  and  the  seasoning — one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  juice  of  one  half  a  lemon,  dash  of  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper, 
and  cayenne  to  taste.  Place  again  on  the  fire,  and  stir  until  the 
sauce  is  thickened;  then  add  the  mashed  shad  roe,  pour  the 
mixture  on  a  dish,  and  set  away  to  cool  for  several  hours. 
Form  it  into  small  ci^oquettes,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them,  using 
crumbs  grated  from  the  loaf;  fry  in  hot  fat  until  an  amber 
color.  Dress  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and 
serve  with  Mayonnaise,  Tartare,  or  Beamaise  sauce. 

SHAD  ROE  GROaUETTES,  NO.  2 

Put  shad  roes  into  salted  boiling  water,  and  simmer  for  fifteen 
minutes;  remove  with  care  not  to  break  the  skin,  and  place  in 


FISH  127 

cold  water;  when  cold,  dry  them,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut 
them  into  pieces  two  inches  thick;  dredge  them  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  lemon  juice,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  grated 
white  bread  crumbs,  place  in  a  wire  basket,  and  fry  in  hot  fat. 
Dress  on  a  napkin,  and  serve  with  Tartare  or  Bearnaise  sauce. 


SALT  MACKEREL 

Soak  the  mackerel  for  twelve  hours  or  more,  with  the  skin  side 
up,  and  change  the  water  several  times.  Simmer  it  for  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes ;  aud,  if  convenient,  have  in  the  water  one 
teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  one  bay-leaf,  one  slice  of  onion,  and  a 
sprig  of  parsley.  When  tender,  place  carefully  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  pour  over  it  a  cream  sauce;  or  the  soaked  fish  may  be 
broiled,  and  spread  with  butter,  pepper,  lemon  juice,  and 
chopped  parsley. 

CREAMED  MACKEREL 

Soak  the  mackerel  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  lay  it  in  a 
shallow  stew-pan,  and  cover  with  milk  or  cream.  Simmer  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Remove  the  fish  carefully,  and  place  it  on  a  hot 
dish.  Add  to  the  milk  or  cream  in  the  stew-pan  one  tablespoon- 
ful  each  of  butter  and  flour  rubbed  together.  Stir  until  a  little 
thickened,  and  the  flour  c«oked;  add  a  little  pepper  and  chopped 
parsley,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish. 


SALT  CODFISH 

Soak  the  codfish  several  hours,  changing  the  -water  three 
times.  Simmer  it  for  20  minutes  or  until  it  is  tender.  Take  out 
carefully  all  the  bones.  Make  a  white  sauce  of  one  tablespoon- 
f ul  each  of  butter  and  flour,  and  one  cupful  of  milk ;  add  to  it, 
off  the  fire,  two  beaten  yolks.  Return  to  the  fii'e,  and  stir  in  one 
cupful  of  shredded  codfish.  Taste  to  see  if  it  needs  seasoning 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  it  on  slices  of  toast,  or  place  it  in 
center  of  dish,  and  surround  it  with  triangular  croutons. 


128  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

CLUB  HOUSE  FISH  BALLS 

Boil  the  quantity  of  codfish  that  will  be  needed,  changing  the 
water  once,  that  it  may  not  be  too  salt.  While  the  fish  is  hot, 
pick  it  very  fine,  so  that  it  is  feathery;  it  cannot  be  done  fine 
enough  with  a  fork,  and  should  be  picked  by  hand.  At  the 
same  time  have  hot  boiled  potatoes  ready.  Mash  them  thor- 
oughly, and  make  them  creamy  with  milk  and  a  good-sized 
lump  of  butter.  To  three  cupfuls  of  the  mashed  potatoes  take 
one  and  one  half  cupfuls  of  fish.  The  fish  should  not  be  packed 
down.  Beat  one  egg  lightly,  and  stir  into  the  other  ingredi- 
ents ;  season  to  taste.  Beat  the  mixture  well  together  and  until 
light,  then  mold  it  into  small  balls,  handling  lightly,  and  before 
frying,  roU  the  balls  in  flour.  Fry  them  in  smoking  hot  fat 
until  a  golden  color.* 

BROILED  SARDINES  ON  TOAST 

Drain  sardines  from  the  can.  Lay  them  on  a  broiler  over  hot 
coals  for  two  minutes  on  each  side.  Have  ready  hot  toast  cut 
the  right  size  to  hold  three  of  the  fish.  Arrange  them  neatly 
on  the  toast,  and  moisten  with  a  little  heated  oil  from  the  can, 

FRESH  FISH  BALLS 

To  one  cupful  of  flaked  boiled  fish  add  a  cream  sauce  made 
of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and 
one  half  cupful  of  milk. 

Let  the  sauce  be  very  stiff,  so  it  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan ; 
mix  it  well  with  the  fish,  and  when  hot  add  two  beaten  eggs, 
pepper,  and  salt.  Drop  the  mixture,  which  should  be  like  thick 
batter,  from  a  spoon  into  very  hot  fat. 

It  will  puff,  and  be  very  light. 

SALMON 

Put  salmon  into  hot  water  to  preserve  its  color,  and  simmer 
in  acidulated  water  or  in  court  bouillon,  as  is  the  rule  for  all  fish. 
The  middle  cuts  are  preferable  where  a  small  quantity  only  is 

•  This  mixture  can  be  spread  on  a  pan,  then  marked  into  squares,  and  baked  in 
the  oven.  This  method  makes  it  a  more  wholesome  dish  for  those  who  are  unable  to 
eat  fried  preparations.—  M.  B. 


FISH  129 

needed.  The  head  piece  makes  a  pretty  cut,  but  is  not  profit- 
able to  buy,  as  the  head  adds  materially  to  the  weight.  Where 
a  large  fish  is  to  be  used  for  a  supper  or  cold  dish,  it  may  be  cut 
in  halves  or  sections  (see  page  114)  if  too  large  for  the  fish  ket- 
tle. Cold  salmon  can  be  elaborately  garnished  with  aspic,  col- 
ored mayonnaise,  shrimps,  gherkins,  capers,  etc. 

CANNED   SALMON 

The  canned  salmon  is  very  good,  and  makes  a  palatable  emer- 
gency dish.  It  can  be  prepared  quickly,  as  the  fish  is  already 
cooked.  It  may  be  broiled,  and  spread  with  maitre  d'  h6tel 
butter,  or  it  can  be  served  on  toast  with  cream  dressing ;  or  a 
white  sauce  can  be  made,  and  the  fish  put  in  it  to  heat;  or  the 
fish  may  be  heated  in  water,  and  served  as  cutlets  with  B^ar- 
naise  sauce. 

SALMON  CUTLETS 

Prepare  salmon  cutlets  the  same  as  boUed  halibut  steaks 
(page  119),  or  cut  them  in  half  heart  or  chop  shapes,  roll  them  in 
egg  and  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  Arrange  them  in 
a  circle  overlapping  one  another,  and  serve  with  Bearnaise, 
HoUandaise  or  Tartare  sauce. 

BROILED  SLICES  OF  SALMON 

Marinate  the  slices  for  one  hour.  Broil  on  both  sides;  baste 
with  butter,  so  that  they  will  not  brown.  Place  them  on  a  hot 
dish,  and  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice,  and  chopped 
parsley.  Serve  with  them  a  Bearnaise  sauce  or  quarters  of  lemon. 

SLICES  OF  SALMON  WITH  MAYONNAISE 

Simmer  two  slices  of  salmon  in  court  bouillon  until  done;  re- 
move carefully  so  as  not  to  break  them.  When  perfectly  cold 
cover  one  side  of  them  with  a  smooth  layer  of  mayonnaise 
made  with  jelly  (see  page  290),  and  colored  a  delicate  green. 
Arrange  a  row  of  sliced  gherkins  or  of  capers  around  the  edge. 

9 


130  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Place  a  wedge-shaped  socle  of  bread  in  the  middle  of  a  dish, 
and  fasten  it  to  the  dish  with  white  of  eggy  so  that  it  will  be  firm; 
rest  the  slices  against  it;  conceal  the  side  of  socle  with  garnish 
of  fresh  lettuce  leaves.  Place  a  bunch  of  parsley  or  water- 
cress or  if  convenient  a  bouquet  of  nasturtium  blossoms,  in  the 
hollow  center  of  the  fish.  Use  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  halves 
for  further  garnishing. 

This  makes  a  handsome  supper  dish  for  card  or  theater 
party.    It  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  place  until  ready  to  serve. 

FILLETS  OF  SALMON  FOfi  6KEEK  LUNCHEOK 

Cut  salmon  into  pieces  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick  and 
two  and  a  half  inches  square,  trim  them  carefully,  and  flatten 
with  heavy  knife  so  they  will  be  uniform.  Lay  them  in  a  bak- 
ing-pan so  they  do  not  touch,  cover  them  with  salted  water,  and 
simmer  them  in  the  oven  for  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until 
well  cooked,  but  still  firm.  Take  them  out  carefully,  skin  and 
dry  them,  and  when  cold  marinate  them.  Make  a  jelly  mayon- 
naise (see  page  290),  using  a  little  tarragon  vinegar;  color  it 
green;  cover  the  fillets  with  the  green  mayonnaise  while  it  is 
soft  enough  to  become  perfectly  smooth,  and  set  them  away  in  a 
cool,  dry  place.  When  ready  to  serve  place  the  fillets  on  the 
top  of  a  socle  made  of  hominy,  and  ornamented  on  the  sides 
with  green  beans  and  balls  of  carrot,  or  green  peas  (see  illus- 
tration page  324).  Arrange  a  macedoine  of  vegetables  (see 
page  216)  around  the  base  of  the  socle.  Serve  with  it  a  mayon- 
naise dressing.    One  pound  of  salmon  will  cut  into  nine  cutlets. 

OBOUSTADE  OF  SHEIMFS 

Make  a  sauce  the  same  as  for  lobster  filling  (see  page  140),  and 
substitute  potted  shrimp  meat  for  the  lobster.  Serve  in  crous- 
tades  of  rice.    This  is  a  good  luncheon  dish,  and  easily  prepared. 


FISH  CHOPS.      (SEE  PAGE  121.) 


LOBSTER   FABCI. 


How  to 
serve  on 


SHELL-FISH,  LOBSTEES,  CRABS 

OYSTERS 

Oysters  are  out  of  season  during  the  months  of 
May,  June,  July,  and  August.  The  rule  is  to  use 
oysters  only  in  the  months  that  have  the  letter  r  in 
the  name. 

When  served  raw,  the  small  varieties  are  the  best. 
They  are  left  on  the  deep  half  of  the  shell.  Six  are 
allowed  for  each  person.  They  should  be  arranged 
regularly  on  the  plate  around  a  little  ice  broken  fine,  hi^-sheU. 
the  valve  side  toward  the  center  of  plate,  and  in  the 
center  of  the  circle  a  quarter  of  a  lemon.  A  few 
sprigs  of  parsley  or  cress  under  the  lemon  makes  a 
pretty  garnish.  Black  and  red  pepper  are  served 
with  raw  oysters,  and  also  very  thin  slices  of  buttered 
brown  bread. 

Oysters  served  raw  should  be  very  fresh.  It  is 
therefore  not  desirable  to  use  them  in  this  way 
when  one  lives  inland.  To  prevent  the  chance  of  any 
bits  of  shell  getting  into  oyster  dishes,  they  should  be 
washed;  each  oyster  being  taken  on  a  fork  and  dip-  Precaution. 
ped  into  water.  As  they  are  largely  composed  of 
water,  this  will  not  injure  their  flavor.  The  juice 
should  be  strained  through  a  coarse  sieve. 

Cracker  crumbs  are  better  than  bread  crumbs  for 
mixing  with  oysters. 

Oysters  require  very  little  cooking.     They  are  put 
over  the  fire  in  their  own  liquor,  and  removed  the 
moment  they  are  plump  or  the  gills  are  curled.    More    Cooking, 
cooking  than  this  makes  them  tough. 

131 


132  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

FRIED  OTSTEBS 

Drain  the  oysters.  Roll  each  one  first  in  cracker  crumbs, 
then  in  egg  mixed  with  a  little  milk,  and  seasoned  with 
pepper  and  salt,  then  again  in  the  cracker  crumbs.  Use  first 
the  crumbs,  as  the  egg  will  not  otherwise  adhere  well  to  the 
oyster.  Place  them  in  a  wire  basket,  and  immerse  in  smok- 
ing hot  fat.  As  soon  as  they  assume  a  light-amber  color 
drain,  and  serve  immediately. 

Oysters  should  not  be  fried  until  the  moment  of  serving, 
for  they  are  quickly  cooked  and  it  is  essential  to  have  them 
hot. 

Pickles,  chow-chow,  horse-radish,  cold-slaw,  or  celery  salad 
are  served  with  fried  oysters,  and  may  be  used  as  a  garnish  or 
be  served  separately. 

OYSTERS  A  LA  VHIEROI 

Prepare  a  Villeroi  sauce  (see  page  280).  Heat  the  oysters  in 
their  own  liquor  until  plump,  then  remove  and  wipe  them  dry. 
Place  them  on  a  pan  turned  bottom  side  up,  leaving  a  space 
around  each  one.  With  a  spoon  cover  each  oyster  with  the 
thick  sauce,  and  set  them  away  for  several  hours  to  cool  and 
harden ;  then  trim  them  to  good  shape.  Take  one  at  a  time  on 
a  broad  knife  or  spatula,  and,  holding  it  over  a  dish  containing 
beaten  egg,  coat  it  well  with  egg',  then  cover  it  with  fresh 
bread  crumbs  and  draw  the  coating  around  the  whole  oyster. 
Place  the  rolled  oysters  in  a  wire  basket,  and  immerse  in  hot 
fat  until  an  amber  color.  Dress  them  on  a  folded  napkin,  and 
serve  with  a  Bechamel  sauce,  or  with  the  same  sauce  with  which 
they  are  coated,  diluted  with  stock  or  oyster  juice.  A  little 
chopped  truffle  and  mushrooms  improve  the  sauce. 

BROILED  OTSTERS 

Dry  the  oysters.  Heat  the  broiler  well,  and  grease  it  by  rub- 
bing it  with  a  slice  of  salt  pork  or  with  suet.  Dip  the  oysters 
into  melted  butter,  or  into  oil,  and  lay  them  on  the  broiler. 


SHELL-FISH,  LOBSTEES,  CRABS  133 

Broil  them  on   both  sides    for   a   few  minutes  over  bright 

coals.     Have  ready  some  toast  cut  into  uniform  shapes  and 

moistened  with  oyster  juice.    On  each  crouton  place  three  or 

four  oysters,  and  pour  over  them  a  little  melted  maltre  d'h6tel 

sauce. 

PANNED  OYSTERS 

Heat  a  baking-pan  very  hot.  Put  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter;  then  the  oysters,  which  have  been  well  drained.  Let  them 
cook  in  hot  oven  until  browned.  Have  ready  some  toast  cut 
into  even  pieces;  soften  them  with  some  liquor  from  the  pan; 
place  three  or  four  oysters  on  each  piece,  and  pour  over  them 
the  liquor  from  the  pan,  which  should  be  reduced  if  too  watery. 
Sprinkle  with  a  little  parsley  chopped  very  fine. 

ROASTED  OYSTERS 

Wash  the  shells  well  with  a  brush  and  cold  water.  Place 
them  in  a  pan  with  the  deep  half  of  shell  down.  Put  them  into 
a  hot  oven,  and  bake  until  the  shell  opens.  Remove  the  top 
shell  carefully  so  as  not  to  lose  the  liquor.  Arrange  them  on 
plates,  and  on  each  oyster  place  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little 
pepper  and  salt.    If  roasted  too  long  the  oysters  will  be  tough. 

OYSTERS  A  LA  POULETTE 

25  oysters.  4  tablespoonfuls  of  flour. 

1  cupful  of  oyster  juice.  1  scant  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  cupful  of  milk  or  cream.  1  saltspoonful  of  pepper. 
Yolks  of  3  eggs.  Dash  of  cayenne  pepper. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.         Dash  of  nutmeg. 

Scald  the  oysters  in  their  liquor  until  plump.  Put  into  a 
saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter;  when  melted  stir  in 
carefully  the  flour,  and  cook,  but  not  brown.  Stir  in  slowly  the 
oyster  juice;  when  perfectly  smooth  add  the  milk  or  cream  and 
the  seasoning.  Take  it  off  the  fire,  and  when  a  little  cooled  stir 
in  the  beaten  yolks.  Place  again  on  the  fire,  and  stir  until 
thickened ;  then  pour  it  over  the  oysters  on  a  hot  dish.    Place 


134  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

a  border  of  triangular-shaped  croutons  around  the  dish,  and 
serve  at  once.  Do  not  add  the  cream  and  eggs  to  the  sauce 
until  time  to  serve,  so  that  there  may  be  no  delay,  as  this  dish 
is  not  good  unless  hot,  and  if  kept  standing  the  sauce  will  curdle. 
The  sauce  should  be  of  the  consistency  of  cream. 

SCALLOPED  OTSTEBS 

Place  in  a  shallow  baking-dish  a  layer  of  oysters ;  over  this 
spread  a  layer  of  bread  or  cracker  crumbs ;  sprinkle  it  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  bits  of  butter  5  alternate  the  layers  until  the 
dish  is  full,  having  crumbs  on  top,  well  dotted  with  bits  of  but- 
ter. Pour  over  the  whole  enough  oyster  juice  to  moisten  it. 
Bake  in  a  hot  oven  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  or  until  browned ; 
serve  it  in  the  same  dish  in  which  it  is  baked.  Individual  scal- 
lop-cups or  shells  may  also  be  used,  enough  for  one  person  being 
placed  in  each  cup. 

OYSTEE  FILLING  FOR  PATTIES 

For  one  dozen  oysters, 
1  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Yolks  of  2  eggs. 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Dash  of  cayenne. 

1  cupful  of  milk  or  cream.  Dash  of  mace. 

Scald  the  oysters  in  their  liquor ;  drain  and  cut  each  one  into 
four  pieces  with  a  silver  knife.  Put  the  butter  into  a  sauce- 
pan, and  when  melted  add  the  flour  j  cook,  but  not  brown  j 
then  add  the  milk  or  cream,  and  stir  until  smooth ;  add  the  sea- 
soning, and  remove  from  the  fire.  When  a  little  cooled  add  the 
beaten  yolks,  stirring  vigorously ;  place  again  on  the  fire, 
and  stir  until  thickened ;  then  add  the  pieces  of  oysters.  The 
filling  should  be  soft  and  creamy,  and  the  patty  cases  should 
be  heated  before  the  filling  is  put  in. 

This  mixture  is  improved  by  using  an  equal  quantity  of  oys- 
ters and  mushrooms,  either  fresh  or  canned,  and  should  be 
highly  seasoned.  It  may  be  served  in  bread-boxes  (see  page  82), 
or  in  crusts  prepared  by  removing  the  crumb  from  rolls,  then 


SHELL-FISH,  LOBSTERS,  CRABS  136 

browning  them  in  the  oven.  Minced  oysters  and  clams  in 
equal  parts,  with  some  of  their  juice  used  in  making  the  sauce, 
also  make  a  good  filling. 

The  same  mixture  may  be  made  into  croquettes,  in  which 
case  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  instead  of  one  are  used,  also  a 
few  more  oysters,  and  the  sauce  is  allowed  to  become  thicker 
(see  croquettes,  page  292). 

clahs 

Clams  are  served  raw  on  the  half  shell  during  the  months 
that  oysters  are  out  of  season.  Little  Neck  clams  are  best  for 
this  purpose,  and  the  smaller  they  are  the  better.  The  manner 
of  serving  them  is  the  same  as  for  raw  oysters.  As  many  as 
ten  or  twelve  are  allowed  for  each  person. 

TO  OPEN  CLAMS 

To  remove  clams  from  the  shells  when  wanted  for  cooking, 
wash  the  shells  well  with  a  brush  and  clear  water.  Place  them 
in  a  saucepan  or  pot  with  a  very  little  hot  water ;  cover  the 
pot,  and  let  them  steam  until  the  shells  open ;  strain  the  liquor 
through  a  fine  cloth,  or  let  it  cool  and  settle ;  then  pour  it  off 
carefully  in  order  to  free  it  from  sand  the  shells  may  have  con- 
tained. 

CREAMED  CLAMS 

Scald  the  clams  in  their  own  liquor.  If  opened  by  steaming, 
they  are  sufficiently  cooked.  Chop  them  into  fine  dice  and 
measure.  To  each  cupful  of  chopped  clams  add  one  cupful  of 
thick  cream  sauce.  For  one  cupful  of  sauce  put  into  a  sauce- 
pan one  tablespoonful  of  butter;  when  melted,  stir  in  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour;  cook,  but  not  brown  it;  then  add 
slowly  one  half  cupful  of  clam  liquor  and  one  half  cupful  of 
milk  or  cream ;  season  with  pepper,  and  salt  if  necessary.  Let 
it  cook  until  a  smooth,  thick  cream,  stirring  aU  the  time ;  add 
the  clams  only  just  before  serving.  Pour  the  mixture  over 
small  pieces  of  toast  laid  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish. 


1S6  THE  CENTUET  COOK  BOOK 

BOASTED  CLAMS 

Clams  are  roasted  in  the  same  manner  as  oysters  (see  page  133). 

CLAM  FBITTEES 

Mix  chopped  clams  with  fritter  batter  (see  page  426),  using 
clam  liquor  instead  of  water  in  making  the  batter,  and  have  the 
batter  quite  thick.  Drop  the  mixture  from  a  tablespoon  into 
hot  fat,  and  fry  until  an  amber  color. 

SCALLOPS 

Scallops  are  dried  with  a  napkin,  then  rolled  in  cracker  dust, 
then  in  egg  and  crumbs,  and  immersed  in  hot  fat  for  a  minute, 
or  just  long  enough  to  take  a  light  color.  Mix  salt  and  pepper 
with  the  crumbs. 

LOBSTERS 

Lobsters  are  in  season  from  March  to  November.  They  are 
in  the  market  all  the  year,  but  during  the  off  months  they  are 
light  and  stringy.  Their  size  increases  with  their  age;  there- 
fore a  small,  heavy  lobster  is  better  than  a  large  one. 

They  are  unwholesome  if  boiled  after  they  are  dead.  If 
bought  already  boiled,  their  freshness  may  be  judged  by  the 
tail,  which  should  be  curled  and  springy.  If  it  is  not  curled 
up,  or  will  not  spring  back  when  straightened,  the  lobster  was 
dead  when  boiled,  and  should  be  rejected. 

Lobsters  may  be  killed  just  before  being  boiled  by  running 
a  pointed  knife  into  the  back  through  the  joint  between  the 
body  and  tail  shells. 

TO  BOIL  A  LOBSTER 

Have  in  a  kettle  enough  water  to  entirely  cover  the  lobster. 
Before  it  becomes  very  hot  take  the  lobster  by  the  back  and 
put  it  into  the  warm  water  head  first.  This  smothers  instead 
of  scalding  it  to  death,  and  seems  the  most  merciful  way  of 
killing  it.    A  lobster  treated  in  this  way  does  not  change  posi- 


SHELL-FISH,  LOBSTERS,  CRABS  137 

tion,  and  seems  to  have  been  killed  instantly.  Cover  the  pot. 
When  it  boils,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  for  thirty 
minutes.    It  will  be  tough  and  stringy  if  cooked  longer. 

TO  OPEN  A  LOBSTER 

After  the  lobster  is  cold,  break  apart  the  tail  and  body ;  twist 
off  the  claws ;  remove  the  body  from  the  shell ;  shake  out  the 
green,  fatty  substance  and  the  coral,  and  save  them  to  mix  with 
the  meat.  Remove  the  stomach,  which  lies  directly  under  the 
head,  and  is  called  the  "lady";  remove  also  the  woolly  gills; 
break  open  the  body,  and  take  out  the  small  pieces  of  meat 
which  lie  under  the  giUs ;  break  open  the  claws  and  remove 
the  meat.  "With  scissors  or  a  knife  cut  the  bony  membrane 
on  the  inside  of  the  tail;  remove  the  meat  in  one  piece,  and 
open  it  to  remove  the  intestine,  which  runs  the  entire  length  of 
the  tail-piece.    The  intestine  is  sometimes  without  color. 

TO  BROIL  A  LOBSTER 

With  a  sharp  knife  cut  quickly  down  the  back,  following  a 
line  which  runs  down  the  middle  of  the  shell.  The  fishman 
will  ordinanly  do  this,  and  it  is  as  quick  and  merciful  as  any 
way  of  killing.  The  lobster  may  be  killed,  if  preferred,  by 
running  a  knife  into  the  back  as  directed  above,  and  then 
opened  with  a  heavy  knife  and  mallet.  Remove  the  stomach, 
or  lady,  and  the  intestine.  Lay  the  two  pieces  on  the  broiler, 
with  the  shell  part  down,  and  broil  over  a  moderate  fire  for 
thirty  minutes  or  longer.  Spread  a  little  butter  over  it  when 
half  done,  to  keep  it  moist;  spread  butter,  salt,  and  pepper  over 
it  when  done ;  open  the  claws  with  a  nut-cracker  or  mallet, 
and  serve  immediately. 

TO  BAKE  A  LOBSTER 

Split  the  lobster  open  in  the  same  way  as  for  broiling.  Re- 
move the  stomach,  or  lady,  and  the  intestine ;  lay  the  two  pieces 
in  a  baking-pan ;  spread  over  the  top  of  each  salt,  pepper  and 


138  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

butter,  and  sprinkle  with  bread  crumbs;  bake  about  forty 
minutes  in  a  hot  oven;  during  the  baking  baste  it  twice  by 
pouring  over  it  a  little  melted  butter.  Baked  and  broiled  lob- 
sters are  considered  a  great  delicacy. 

LOBSTER  FARCI 

2  cupf uls  of  boiled  lobster  meat.    1  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

1  cupful  of  milk  or  cream.  1  tablespoonful  chopped 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  parsley. 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour.  J  nutmeg. 

Yolks  of  3  hard-boiled  eggs.  Dash  of  cayenne  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  bread  or  of  paprica. 
crumbs. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter;  when  it 
bubbles  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  cook,  but  not  brown ; 
add  one  cupful  of  milk  slowly,  and  stir  until  smooth ;  then  re- 
move it  from  the  fire ;  add  the  salt,  the  pepper,  the  parsley,  the 
yolks  mashed  fine,  and  lastly  the  lobster  meat  cut  into  pieces 
one  half  inch  square.  (Use  a  silver  knife  to  cut  lobster.)  Be 
careful,  in  mixing,  not  to  break  the  meat.  Have  the  shell  from 
which  the  meat  was  taken  carefully  washed  and  dried,  leaving 
on  the  head ;  cut  out  neatly  the  inside  sheU  of  the  tail-piece,  and 
fit  the  two  parts  of  the  shell  together.  As  the  shell  contracts 
in  cooking,  it  is  weU  to  trim  off  a  little  from  the  sides  of  the 
body  shell  in  order  to  leave  an  opening  wide  enough  to  admit  a 
spoon  in  serving.  Put  the  meat  mixture  into  the  shell.  Cover 
the  top  with  the  bread  crumbs,  which  have  been  moistened  with 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Place  it  in  the  oven  for  a  few 
minutes  to  brown.  If  the  meat  of  two  lobsters  is  used,  the 
shells  of  both  may  be  used,  or  the  two  tail-shells  may  be  fitted 
into  one  body  shell,  which  wiU  then  hold  all  the  meat. 

LOBSTEB  CHOPS 

The  mixture  for  chops  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  for 
farci,  except  that  the  meat  is  cut  a  little  finer.  After  it  is  mixed 


LOBSTER  CHOPS,  SERVED  STANDING. 


J 


LOUSTEK  CHOPS. 


SHELL-FISH,  LOBSTERS,  CRABS  139 

with  the  white  sauce,  spread  it  on  a  platter  to  cool;  when  suffici- 
ently cold,  mold  into  the  form  of  chops.  Then  dip  in  egg,  roll  in 
fresh  bread  crumbs  (see  croquettes,  page  293),  and  immerse  in 
hot  fat  until  fried  to  an  amber  color.  The  chops  will  mold  better 
if  the  mixture  is  left  for  some  time  to  harden.  The  chops  may 
also  stand  for  some  hours  before  being  cooked.  Tin  forms  are 
made  for  molding  chops,  but  they  are  easily  shaped  without  them 
if  the  mixture  has  stood  long  enough  to  stiffen.  After  they  are 
fried,  make  a  little  opening  in  the  pointed  end,  and  insert  a 
small  claw. 

Serve  the  chops  on  a  napkin,  and  garnish  with  lemon  and 
parsley. 

LOBSTER  A  LA  NEWBURG 

One  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  boiled  lobster  meat  cut  into  pieces 
one  inch  square. 
1  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Yolk  of  two  eggs, 

f  cup  of  Madeira  or  sherry.        1  trufle  chopped. 
1  cupful  of  cream.  J  teaspoonf ul  of  salt. 

Dash  of  cayenne  or  paprica. 

Put  the  butter  in  a  saucepan;  when  it  has  melted  add  the 
lobster  meat,  the  chopped  truffle,  the  salt,  and  the  pepper;  cover 
and  let  simmer  for  five  minutes ;  then  add  the  wine,  and  cook 
three  minutes  longer. 

Have  ready  two  yolks  and  one  cupful  of  cream  well  beaten 
together;  add  this  to  the  lobster,  shake  the  saucepan  until 
the  mixture  is  thickened,  and  serve  immediately.  This  dish 
will  not  keep  without  curdling,  and  should  not  be  put  to- 
gether until  just  in  time  to  serve.  The  lobster  may  be  pre- 
pared and  kept  hot.  The  rest  of  the  cooking,  from  the  time 
the  wine  goes  in,  requires  but  five  minutes,  so  the  time  can  be 
easily  calculated.  If  the  mixture  is  stirred  the  meat  will  be 
broken ;  shaking  the  pan  mixes  it  sufficiently.  This  is  a  very 
good  dish,  and  easily  prepared ;  but  it  will  not  be  right  unless 
served  as  soon  as  it  is  cooked.  The  quantity  given  is  enough 
for  six  people.    Crab  meat  may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 


140  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

LOBSTEB  STEW 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  onion.  Before  it  takes  color  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  cook,  but  not  brown.  Then  add 
slowly  one  cupful  of  water  in  which  the  lobster  was  boUed,  one 
cupful  of  milk,  and  one  cupful  of  good  stock.  Add  the  lobster 
meat,  and  when  it  has  become  thoroughly  hot  remove  the  meat 
and  place  it  on  the  dish  on  which  it  is  to  be  served,  ar- 
ranging it  in  the  shape  of  a  lobster  as  far  as  possible.  Cut  the 
taU-piece  into  thick  slices,  without  changing  its  position.  Sea- 
son the  sauce  with  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne,  and  pour  it  over 
the  meat.  Place  around  the  edges  triangular  crotitons,  and 
garnish  with  head,  small  claws,  and  tail. 

LOBSTER  FULIKG  FOR  PATTIES 

1  cupful  of  lobster  meat  cut  into  dice.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter.  J  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Dash  of  cayenne. 

1  cupful  of  milk,  2  yolks. 

Put  the  butter  into  a  saucepan ;  when  melted  add  the  flour, 
and  cook  a  few  minutes,  but  not  brown ;  add  slowly  the  milk 
or  cream,  and  stir  until  perfectly  smooth.  To  this  white  sauce 
add  the  two  yolks  beaten,  and  stir  them  in  off  the  fire ;  then  add 
the  meat,  season,  and  replace  on  the  fire  until  sufficiently  thick- 
ened. Mix  carefully  with  a  wooden  spoon,  so  as  not  to  break 
the  meat.  The  filling  should  be  very  creamy.  The  salpicon 
given  below  may  be  used  for  filling,  if  preferred. 

SALPICON  OF  LOBSTER 

1  tablespoonful  of  lobster       1  tablespoonful  of  butter. 

meat  cut  into  dice.  1  teaspoonful  of  flour. 

6  mushrooms.  J  cupful  of  white  stock. 

1  truffle.  J  cupful  of  cream. 

Salt  and  cayenne. 

Put  one  level  tablespoonful  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and 
when  melted  add  one  level  tablespoonful  of  flour;  cook,  but  not 


SHELL-FISH,  LOBSTERS,  CRABS  141 

brown ;  add  slowly  the  stock,  and  stir  until  perfectly  smooth ; 
then  add  the  cream ;  after  it  begins  to  thicken  add  the  lobster 
meat,  the  chopped  truflfle,  and  the  mushrooms  cut  into  dice. 
Season  highly  with  salt  and  cayenne  or  paprica.  Let  simmer 
for  five  minutes.  This  must  be  creamy,  but  not  too  soft.  It 
can  be  served  as  filling  for  patties  or  potato  croustades,  or  may 
be  served  in  paper  boxes.  This  amount  makes  about  a  cupful 
of  salpicon,  which  is  enough  for  six  patties. 

CRABS 

Crabs  are  in  season  during  the  months  of  May,  June,  July, 
and  August.  They  may  be  had  at  other  times,  but  are  then 
light  and  stringy.  Soft-shell  crabs  are  best  in  July  and  August. 
Like  lobsters,  crabs  must  be  bought  while  alive,  and  boiled  in 
the  same  way.  Put  them  head  first  into  hot  water.  After  five 
minutes  add  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  for  thirty 
minutes. 

When  cold  remove  the  shells,  the  stomach,  which  is  just 
under  the  head,  the  gills,  and  the  intestine.  Take  out  the  meat 
carefully. 

DEVILED  GRABS 

12  crabs.  1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1    cupful  of  cream  or  milk.  ^  teaspoonful  paprica  or 

IJ  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  dash  of  cayenne. 

1    tablespoonful  of  flour.  J  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

1   tablespoonful  chopped  parsley.  Yolks  of  4  hard-boiled  eggs. 

To_obtain  enough  meat  to  fill  nine  shells,  use  twelve  crabs. 
After  they  are  boiled  remove  the  meat  with  care,  breaking  it  as 
little  as  possible. 

Put  into  a  double  boiler  the  cream ;  when  it  is  scalded  add  to 
it  the  flour  and  butter,  which  have  been  rubbed  together;  stir 
until  smooth  and  thickened;  then  add  the  mashed  yolks,  the  sea- 
soning, and  the  crab  meat.  Mix  well  together,  and  taste  to  see 
if  more  seasoning  is  needed.  Deviled  crabs  need  to  be  highly 
seasoned.    A  little  mustard  may  be  used,  if  desired.    Have  the 


142  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

shells  carefully  washed  and  dried,  and  fill  them  with  the  mixture, 
rounding  it  well  on  top,  and  pressing  it  close  to  the  edges  of  the 
shells,  so  that  in  frying  none  of  the  fat  may  enter.  Smooth  the 
top,  and  let  stand  until  cold.  Beat  one  egg  with  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  water,  and,  holding  a  shell  over  this,  baste  it  with  the  egg, 
letting  it  run  over  the  whole  top,  including  the  shell;  then 
sprinkle  with  white  bread  crumbs.  Put  two  at  a  time  into  a 
frying-basket,  and  immerse  in  very  hot  fat.  It  will  take  but  a 
minute  to  color  them.  They  may  be  browned  in  the  oven,  if 
preferred,  in  which  case  the  egging  is  omitted,  and  a  few  pieces 
of  butter  are  placed  on  top  of  the  crumbs. 

STUFFED  GRABS  WITH  MUSHEOOMS 

Meat  of  6  crabs.  1  tablespoonful  of  butter. 

Mushrooms  cut  into  dice    1  tablespoonful  of  flour. 

the  same  quantity  as  of    1  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt. 

the  crab  meat.  ^  teaspoonful  of  paprica,  or 

1  cupful  of  cream  or  milk.       dash  of  cayenne. 
1  slice  of  onion.  ^  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Yolks  of  4  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  one 
slice  of  onion  chopped  fine ;  before  it  becomes  brown,  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour;  cook,  but  not  brown;  and  add  slowly 
one  cupful  of  milk  or  cream.  Stir  until  smooth  and  thickened ; 
then  add  the  mashed  yolks,  the  seasoning,  the  crab  meat,  and 
the  chopped  mushrooms.  This  mixture  should  not  be  very 
soft.  Fill  the  shells  with  it,  and  finish  the  same  as  deviled 
crabs. 

SOFT-SHELL  CBASS 

Wash  the  crabs  carefully ;  lift  up  the  flap,  and  remove  the 
sand-bag  (stomach),  gills,  and  intestine;  dry  them  well,  and 
dredge  with  salt  and  pepper.  Roll  in  flour,  and  saute  them  in 
butter.  Have  a  generous  amount  of  butter  in  the  frying-pan, 
and  saut^  them  on  both  sides ;  when  done  place  them  on  a  hot 
dish.    To  the  butter  in  the  frying-pan  add  a  little  lemon  juice. 


PISH  143 

Strain  this  over  the  crabs,  and  sprinkle  them  with  parsley 
chopped  very  fine. 

Sof  t-sheU  crabs  may  also  be  fried,  in  which  case  they  are  first 
dipped  in  milk,  then  covered  with  fiine  bread-crumbs,  and  im- 
mersed in  hot  fat. 

They  may  also  be  broiled  over  a  slow  fire,  and  when  done 
covered  with  maitre  d'h6tel  sauce.  The  preferable  way  of 
cooking  them  is  by  the  method  first  given. 

OTSTEB-GRABS 

After  they  are  carefully  washed  and  dried,  dip  them  in  milk, 
then  roll  them  in  flour,  and  fry  them  for  one  minute  in  hot  fat. 

Serve  them  on  a  hot  napkin  with  quarters  of  lemon,  or  they 
may  be  served  in  fontage  cups,  or  in  paper  boxes,  or  in  shells. 
(See  also  oyster-crabs,  page  310.) 

CRABS  ST.  LAURENT 

1  cupful  of  boiled  crab  meat  (6  1  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
crabs).  ^  cupful  stock. 

2  tablespoonfuls  grated  Parme-  ^  cupful  cream  or  milk, 
san  cheese.  ^  teaspoonful  salt. 

2  tablespoonfuls  white  wine.  J  teaspoonful  pepper. 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Dash  of  cayenne. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter;  when 
melted  add  the  flour;  cook,  but  not  brown;  add  slowly  the 
stock,  and  stir  until  perfectly  smooth ;  then  add  the  cream, 
and  when  thickened,  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  then  the  crab  meat 
and  the  cheese ;  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  and  add  the  wine ; 
spread  this  mixture  over  pieces  of  buttered  toast  cut  in  squares 
or  circles ;  sprinkle  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  place  on 
each  piece  a  small  bit  of  butter ;  set  in  the  oven  for  three  min- 
utes ;  serve  very  hot  on  a  napkin  garnished  with  parsley.  This 
dish  may  be  prepared  in  a  chafing-dish,  in  which  case  the  mix- 
ture must  be  placed  on  the  toast  and  served  directly  from  the 
chafing-dish. 

Boiled  halibut  may  be  substituted  for  the  crab  meat. 


144 


THE  CENTURY  CQOK  BOOK 


CRAB  STEW 


J  dozen  crabs. 

1  quart  milk. 

Yolks  of  4  eggs  boiled  hard. 

J  lemon. 

1  nutmeg. 


2  tablespoonf  uls  butter. 

1  tablespoonful  flour. 

1  dessert  spoonful  mustard. 

^  teaspoonful  salt. 

I  teaspoonful  red  pepper. 


Mash  the  hard-boiled  yolks  fine,  and  rub  into  them  the 
butter,  flour  and  mustard. 

Put  the  milk  into  a  double  boiler ;  when  it  is  scalded  stir  in 
the  mixture  of  egg,  etc.;  season,  and  just  before  serving  stir 
in  the  crab  meat,  and  add  one  cupful  of  sherry.  Place  in  bottom 
of  a  deep  dish  a  few  thin  slices  of  lemon  and  turn  the  stew  over 
them. 


Chapteb  rv 

MEATS 

Long,  slow  cooking  breaks  down  the  fiber  of  meat,       gj^^ 
and  so  makes  it  more  tender.    Whatever  method  of     cooking, 
cooking  is  employed,  this  fact  should  be  remembered. 
Many  of  the  tough  pieces  are  the  most  nutritious  ones, 
and  can  by  slow  cooking  be  made  as  acceptable  as  the 
more  expensive  cuts. 

In  order  to  shut  in  the  juices,  meat  should  at  first  Juices, 
be  subjected  to  a  high  degree  of  heat  for  a  short  time. 
A  crust  or  case  will  then  be  formed  on  the  outside  by 
the  coagulation  of  the  albumen,  after  which  the  heat 
should  be  lowered,  and  the  cooking  proceed  slowly. 
The  same  rule  holds  for  baking,  where  the  oven  must 
be  very  hot  for  the  first  few  minutes  only ;  for  boil- 
ing, where  the  water  must  be  boiling  and  covered  for 
a  time,  and  then  placed  where  it  will  simmer  only ; 
for  broiling,  where  the  meat  must  be  placed  close  to 
the  coals  at  first,  then  held  farther  away. 

Tough  meats  are  better  boiled,  because  a  lower  de- 
gree of  heat  can  be  maintained  and  slower  cooking 
insured.  jj^g^^^ 

Dark  meats  should  be  served  underdone  or  red ;  the  of  cooking, 
white  meats  thoroughly  cooked,  but  not  dried. 

Dry  meats  are  improved  by  being  larded.  Dry  meats. 

Clean  meat  by  wiping  it  with  a  wet  cloth,  but  do  not    Cleaning, 
put  it  in  water. 

Salt  and  pepper  draw  out  the  juices ;  therefore  do  seasoning, 
not  put  them  on  meat  before  cooking,  or  until  after 

10  145 


146  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

the  meat  is  seared,  unless  the  meat  is  to  be  covered  at  once  with 
egg  and  crumbs,  or  with  flour. 

Do  not  pierce  the  meat  with  a  fork  while  cooking,  as  it 
makes  an  outlet  for  the  juices.  If  necessary  to  turn  it,  use 
two  spoons. 

TO  EOAST  BEEF 

Time  for  cooking  rib  roast  rare  eight  to  ten  minutes  per 
pound ;  time  for  cooking  rolled  roast  rare,  ten  to  twelve  min- 
utes per  pound. 

'To  roast  beef  on  a  spit  before  the  fire  is  unquestionably  the 
best  method  of  cooking  it;  but  as  few  kitchens  are  equipped 
for  roasting  meats,  baking  them  in  the  oven  is  generaUy  prac- 
tised, and  has  come  to  be  called  roasting.  Beef  should  be  well 
streaked  with  fat,  and  have  a  bright-red  color.  Place  the  meat 
to  be  baked  on  a  rack  which  will  raise  it  a  little  above  the  bot- 
tom of  the  pan.  Dredge  the  whole,  top  and  sides,  with  flour. 
Place  in  a  corner  of  the  pan  a  half  teaspoonfiil  of  salt  and  a 
quarter  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Do  not  let  them  touch  the  raw 
meat,  as  they  draw  out  the  juices.  Put  into  the  pan  also  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  drippings.  Place  it  in  a  very  hot  oven  for 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  or  until  the  meat  is  browned ;  then 
shut  off  the  drafts  and  lower  the  temperature  of  the  oven,  and 
cook  slowly  until  done,-  baste  frequently;  do  not  put  water 
in  the  pan,  as  it  makes  steam,  and  prevents  browning.  A 
roast  has  a  better  appearance  if  the  ribs  are  not  too  long. 
They  may  be  cut  off  and  reserved  for  the  soup  pot,  or  broken 
and  doubled  under. 

Serve  it  standing  on  the  ribs,  and  cut  the  slices  in  line  with 
the  ribs. 

For  a  rolled  roast,  remove  the  bones,  roll  it,  and  tie  securely 
into  good  shape ;  when  cooked,  cut  the  cords,  and  run  through 
a  fancy  skewer  holding  at  the  head  a  slice  of  lemon  or  piece  of 
carrot  cut  into  ornamental  shape.  This  piece  of  beef  stands  on 
the  dish  like  a  cylinder,  and  should  be  cut  across  horizontally. 

If  the  beef  is  cooked  as  directed  it  will  have  one  quarter  of 


MEATS  147 

an  inch  of  seared  meat ;  the  rest  will  be  of  a  uniform  red  color 
all  through.  If  cooked  in  too  hot  an  oven  the  center  will  be 
raw,  while  an  inch  or  two  of  the  outside  will  be  much  over- 
done, hard,  and  tasteless.    (See  illustration  facing  page  152.) 

YORKSHIRE  PUDDING 

Put  two  cupfuls  of  flour  into  a  bowl,  and  mix  in  one  half 
a  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt.  Beat  up  three  eggs,  and  stir  them  into 
the  flour ;  then  add  two  cupfuls  of  milk.  Stir  until  the  mixture 
is  smooth,  then  turn  it  into  a  pan  containing  a  little  of  the  drip- 
pings from  the  roast  beef.  Let  the  batter  be  only  one  inch 
deep  in  the  pan.  Bake  thirty  to  forty  minutes.  Cut  the  pud- 
ding in  squares,  and  place  it  around  the  roast  beef. 

ROUND  OF  BEEF 

Ten  to  twelve  minutes  per  pound. 

The  cut  from  the  upper  side  of  the  round  is  a  good  roasting 
piece.  It  should  be  cooked  very  slowly  after  it  is  browned  in 
order  to  make  it  tender.  The  under  side  of  the  round  should 
be  cooked  d  la  mode,  or  braised. 

BRAISED  BEEF 

Take  one  half  cupful  of  salt  pork,  one  half  cupful  each  of  carrot, 
turnip,  onion,  and  celery,  all  cut  into  dice.  Mix  them  together 
and  spread  them  on  a  baking  pan,  reserving  one  half  cupful  for 
the  top  of  the  meat.  On  the  bed  of  vegetables  place  a  piece  of 
beef  cut  from  the  upper  or  under  side  of  the  round,  weighing 
five  or  six  pounds.  Dredge  it  with  flour.  Place  it  in  hot  oven  to 
brown  for  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes.  Then  add  two  cupfuls 
of  stock  or  water;  a  bouquet  of  herbs,  consisting  of  parsley,  six 
peppercorns,  three  cloves,  one  bay-leaf;  spread  the  one  half  cup- 
ful of  vegetables  over  the  meat;  add  a  half  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt 
to  the  pan,  cover  it  closely  with  another  pan,  reduce  the  heat 
of  the  oven,  and  cook  very  slowly  for  four  or  five  hours. 


148  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Double  pans  are  made  which  are  especially  good  for  braising, 
where  the  steam  should  be  confined  as  much  as  possible,  and  the 
basting  is  done  automatically.  These  pans  should  not  be  used 
for  baking  meats.  If  very  close  fitting  pans  are  not  used,  the 
water  must  be  renewed  when  necessary,  and  basting  done  fre- 
quently. The  success  of  this  dish  depends  upon  slow  cooking. 
Strain  the  sauce  from  the  pan,  season  with  salt  and  pepper; 
pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  over  the  meat;  serve  the  rest  in  a 
sauce-boat.  It  is  very  like  a  Spanish  sauce.  The  vegetables 
may  be  served  around  the  meat  if  desired.  This  way  of  cook- 
ing  can  be  done  in  a  pot  if  more  convenient,  and  is  then  called 
a  pot  roast. 

BEEF  A  LA  MODE 

Use  six  or  seven  pounds  of  the  upper  round  of  beef  for  this 
dish.  (It  is  very  good  cold  when  properly  cooked.)  The  suc- 
cess depends  upon  very  slow  cooking.  The  vegetables  give  it  a 
distinctive  flavor. 

Make  several  deep  incisions  into  the  meat  with  a  thin,  sharp 
knife,  or  with  a  steel.  Press  into  them  lardoons  of  salt  pork 
about  half  an  inch  square,  and  two  or  three  inches  long.  This  is 
called  daubing,  and  the  butcher  will  ordinarily  do  it  if  requested, 
Put  trimmings  of  pork,  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  drippings,  into 
the  bottom  of  a  large  iron  pot.  When  it  is  hot,  put  in  the  meat, 
and  brown  it  on  all  sides  by  turning  it  to  the  bottom  of  the  pot. 
This  will  take  about  half  an  hour.  Next  dredge  it  with  flour,  and 
brown  that  also.  Then  put  a  small  plate  under  the  beef  to  lift  it 
a  little  off  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  and  prevent  its  burning.  Fill 
the  pot  with  enough  boiling  water  to  half  cover  the  meat.  Add 
a  half  cupful  each  of  sliced  onions,  carrots,  and  turnips,  and  a 
sprig  of  parsley.  Cover  the  pot  very  tight,  so  the  meat  will  cook 
in  steam;  and  simmer  it  for  four  or  five  hours.  Add  more  boil- 
ing water  when  necessary.  When  the  meat  is  done,  place  it 
on  a  hot  dish.  Place  some  of  the  vegetables  around  and  over  it. 
Make  a  gravy  as  foUows:  put  into  a  saucepan  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter;  when  it  bubbles,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and 


MEATS  149 

stir  until  it  is  browned;  then  add  a  cupful  of  liquor  strained 
from  the  pot  in  which  the  beef  was  cooked.  If  there  is  not  a 
cupful  of  liquor  in  the  pot,  add  enough  hot  water  to  make  that 
quantity.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt.  This  will  resemble  a 
Spanish  sauce.  It  can  be  poured  over  the  meat,  or  served 
separately. 

BOUILLI 

This  dish  is  prepared  usually  from  the  meat  used  in  making 
soup.  Take  a  piece  from  the  lower  side  of  round;  trim,  and  tie 
it  into  good  shape;  place  it  in  the  soup  pot  with  cold  water, 
allowing  one  quart  of  water  to  each  pound  of  meat.  Let  it 
come  slowly  to  the  boiling  point,  and  then  let  it  simmer  for  four 
hours.  After  it  has  cooked  two  hours  add  a  whole  carrot,  onion, 
and  turnip,  parsley,  celery,  six  peppercorns,  three  cloves,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  The  meat  wiU  be  tender  if  cooked  very 
slowly,  and  not  allowed  to  boil;  but  having  been  put  into  cold 
water,  its  juices  will  be  extracted.  Therefore  the  water  is  used 
as  soup,  and  the  meat  will  depend  on  a  good  sauce  for  flavor. 
Any  rich  brown  sauce  will  do.  Tomato  or  horseradish  sauce  is 
recommended.  Cut  the  vegetables  into  fancy  shapes  with  cut- 
ters, or  into  dice,  and  place  them  on  the  dish  around  the  meat. 

FILLET  OF  BEEF 

Time,  thirty  minutes  in  hot  oven. 

The  fillet  is  the  tenderloin  of  beef,  and  is  taken  from  the 
underside  of  the  sirloin  cut.  Remove,  taking  care  not  to  make 
the  meat  ragged,  the  sinewy  skin  and  the  muscle  from  the 
top,  and  most  of  the  fat  from  the  other  side.  Fold  the  thin  end 
under,  trim  it  into  good  shape.  Lard  it  plentifully,  letting  the 
whole  upper  surface  be  perforated  with  fine  lardoons.  Place  in 
a  small  baking  pan  thin  slices  of  larding  pork,  over  the  pork 
place  a  layer  of  chopped  onion,  carrot,  turnip  and  celery;  lay 
the  tenderloin  on  top.  Pour  in  the  pan  a  cupful  of  stock,  add 
one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  a  bouquet  of  parsley,  one  bay-leaf,  and  two  cloves.    Bake 


160  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

in  a  hot  oven  for  thirty  minutes,  and  baste  frequently.  The 
fillet  should  be  rare.  Remove  it  when  done;  strain  off  the 
gravy,  and  skim  off  the  grease.  Put  into  the  same  pan  a  table- 
spoonful  each  of  butter  and  of  flour ;  stir  until  they  are  browned ; 
then  add  slowly  the  gravy  strained  from  the  pan;  if  not  enough 
to  give  a  cupful,  add  enough  stock  to  make  that  measure.  Stir 
until  it  boils ;  then  add  a  canful  of  mushrooms  (which  have  been 
drained),  and  let  them  simmer  for  five  minutes ;  not  longer,  or 
the  mushrooms  will  harden.  Taste  to  see  if  the  seasoning  is 
right.  Add  a  half  teaspoonf  ul  of  kitchen  bouquet  to  make  it 
brown.  The  sauce  should  be  of  the  consistency  of  cream.  A 
half  cupful  of  Madeira  or  of  sherry  may  be  used  in  place  of 
the  mushrooms  if  preferred.  Spread  the  sauce  on  the  serving 
dish,  and  lay  the  fillet  on  it.  Arrange  the  mushrooms  top  side 
up,  evenly  around  the  fillet.  In  carving  cut  the  fillet  diagonally, 
instead  of  straight  across ;  and  put  a  little  gravy  in  the  center 
of  each  slice.  The  time  for  cooking  is  always  thirty  minutes, 
for  the  weight  is  in  the  length,  and  not  in  the  thickness  of  the 
meat. 

HOW  TO  BUY  A  FILLET 

A  profitable  way  to  obtain  a  fillet  is  to  buy  a  large  cut  of  the 
sii'loin,  remove  the  tenderloin,  and  have  the  top  cut  into  two  or 
more  roasting  pieces.  Beef  will  keep  for  some  time,  and  the 
butcher  will  hold  it  until  called  for.  In  this  way  it  will  cost 
twenty-two  to  twenty-five  cents  per  pound,  while,  if  bought  by 
itseK,  it  would  be  from  eighty  cents  to  one  dollar  per  pound. 

For  a  moderate  sized  family  it  may  seem  too  much  beef  to 
buy  at  one  time;  but  it  is  the  one  kind  of  meat  that  can  be 
served  very  often,  and  there  is  no  waste.  It  is  good  hot  or 
cold,  warmed  over  or  hashed.  The  suet  is  the  best  fat  for 
frying  purposes,  and  the  bones  make  good  soup.  Part  of  the 
sirloin  piece  can  be  cut  into  steaks,  and  one  of  the  roasting 
pieces  rolled  to  give  variety.  The  flank  can  be  made  into  Ham- 
burg steaks,  or  into  soup.  If  judiciously  cut  there  will  be 
little  left  over  to  cook  again. 


MEATS  151 

COLD  EOAST  BEEF 

Roasted  and  braised  beef  are  both  quite  as  good  cold  as  hot, 
and  in  summer  are  sometimes  preferable  cold.  Serve  with  cold 
beef  a  vegetable  salad  when  it  is  used  for  dinner.  Make  the 
salad  of  string  beans,  asparagus,  or  a  macedoine  of  vegetables. 
For  a  supper  dish,  the  rolled  rib  roast  can  be  made  very  attrac- 
tive by  garnishing  it  with  aspic  jelly  cut  into  fancy  forms.  Place 
a  large  star  of  the  jelly  on  top,  and  small  timbale  forms  of  jellied 
vegetables,  and  broken  jelly  on  the  dish  around  the  meat;  or  a 
simpler  garnishing  can  be  made  with  lettuce  leaves,  tomatoes 
stuffed  with  mayonnaise,  or  celery,  etc.  Use  lettuce  with  any  of 
the  salads.    Have  a  fancy  skewer  stuck  in  the  side. 

SCALLOPED  MEAT 

Spread  in  a  baking  dish  alternate  layers  of  bread-crumbs, 
meat  chopped  very  fine,  a  sprinkling  of  chopped  parsley  and 
onion,  pepper  and  salt.  "When  the  dish  is  nearly  full,  pour 
over  enough  white  sauce  to  moisten  it  well;  cover  with  crumbs 
and  bits  of  butter.  Set  in  oven  until  browned.  Soup  stock 
or  tomatoes  may  also  be  used  for  moistening  a  scallop.  If  un- 
cooked meat  is  used,  it  will  require  longer  cooking  (one  hour 
in  slow  oven),  and  more  liquid  used,  so  that  it  will  not  get  too 
dry.  The  coarse  ends  of  steak  can  be  utilized  in  this  way. 
A  scallop  made  of  raw  meat  and  tomatoes  makes  a  good  luncheon 
dish. 

HAMBURG  STEAKS 

Chop  one  pound  of  lean  raw  meat  very  fine,  remove  all  the 
fiber  possible.    To  the  mince  add 

^  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice,    i  teaspoonful  pepper. 
i  teaspoonful  salt.  Dash  of  nutmeg. 

Form  it  into  small  balls,  and  flatten;  dredge  them  with  flour, 
and  saut6  them  in  butter.  Place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  spread 
with  maitre  d'h6tel  butter;   or  make  a  thick  brown  sauce  by 


162  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

adding  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  the  butter  used  in  the  saut4 
pan.  Let  it  brown;  then  add  slowly  a  little  soup  stock.  Sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  and  lemon  juice,  or  Worcestershire 
sauce.  Drop  a  teaspoonful  of  sauce  on  each  cake  without 
spreading  it.  Garnish  with  water-cresses.  These  steaks  can  be 
made  from  the  end  pieces  of  steaks,  or  from  the  round. 

When  made  for  invalids,  the  best  meat  is  used.  They  are 
seasoned  only  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  broiled  just  enough  to 
be  thoroughly  heated.  Another  way  to  serve  them  is  to  make 
them  the  size  of  English  muffins;  on  the  upper  side  make  a 
depression  or  hollow,  broil  or  saut6  them,  and  place  them  on  a 
baking  dish ;  spread  them  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  and  drop 
an  egg  in  the  hollow  top  of  each  one.  Put  them  in  the  oven  just 
long  enough  to  set  the  white  of  the  egg.  Place  a  dash  of  pep- 
per on  the  center  of  the  yolk,  and  serve  at  once  very  hot. 

BEEF  FIE 

Lay  in  a  pie  dish  a  few  thin  slices  of  onion ;  then  a  layer  of 
cold  cooked  beef  cut  very  thin.  Dredge  with  a  little  flour,  pep- 
per, and  salt ;  fiU  the  dish  with  these  articles  in  alternate  lay- 
ers, and  add  any  cold  gravy  there  may  be  at  hand.  Scald  and 
peel  enough  tomatoes  to  cover  the  top  of  the  dish ;  have  them 
of  uniform  size,  and  place  them  close  together.  Spread  over 
them  some  bread  crumbs,  salt,  pepper,  and  bits  of  butter. 
Place  the  dish  in  the  oven,  and  cook  until  the  tomatoes  are 
tender. 

Mutton  or  veal  may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 

WARMED-OVER  BEEF   (CHAFIITG-LISH) 

Cut  the  beef  into  small  thin  slices,  and  trim  off  the  fat.  Put 
into  a  stew  pan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour.  When  cooked,  and  a  little  browned,  add 
slowly  one  cupful  of  stock,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  Worcester- 
shire sauce  and  mushroom  catsup.  Season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste.    Add  the  slices  of  beef,  and  let  them  become 


ROLLED  RIB  ROAST  OF  BEEF  GARNISH!  1)    W  1111    lOTATOLS    KOA?^Tl;J>   IN   SA.MIC   DISH 

WITH  THE  BEEF.     FANCT  SKEWER   GARNISHED   WITH   SLICES  OK  TURNIP  AND 

CARROT,  RUN  INTO  THE  SIDE  TO  HOLD  IT  TOGETHER,      (SEE  PAGE   146.) 


A  BONED  TENDERLOIN  STEAK  MADE   TO  IMITATE  A  CHATEAUBRIAND  GARNISHED 
WITH  WATER-CRESS  AND  LEMON.      (SEE  PAGE  157.) 


MAKKOW-BONE8  SERVED  ON  ROUND  SLICES  OF  TOAST.      (SEE  FACE  159.) 


MEATS  153 

thoroughly  hot.  Then  place  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish,  and 
pour  the  sauce  over  them.  Garnish  with  croutons,  and  serve 
with  it  farina  balls  (see  page  223).  Tomato  catsup  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  Worcestershire  sauce.  When  this  dish  is  to 
be  prepared  in  a  chafing-dish,  the  sauce  may  be  made  before- 
hand ;  the  heating  and  mixing  only  being  done  over  the  lamp, 
and  croutons  alone  served  with  it.  Any  kind  of  meat  or  fish 
may  be  used  in  this  way. 

INSIDE  FLANK 

Take  the  piece  of  meat  called  the  inside  flank ;  wipe  it  clean 
with  a  wet  cloth ;  carefully  remove  the  skin  and  fat  and  lay  it 
flat  on  a  board ;  moisten  three  quarters  of  a  cupful  of  crumbs 
with  stock ;  add  one  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt,  one  quarter  teaspoon- 
ful  of  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  onion  juice  or  one  half  onion 
chopped  fine,  one  tablespoonful  chopped  parsley.  Spread  this 
mixture  on  the  meat  evenly;  then  roll  and  tie  it  with  white 
twine ;  turn  in  the  ends  to  make  it  even  and  shapely. 

Cut  into  dice  an  onion,  turnip,  and  carrot,  and  place  them  in 
a  baking-pan ;  lay  the  rolled  meat  on  the  bed  of  vegetables ; 
pour  in  enough  stock  or  water  to  cover  the  pan  one  inch  deep  ; 
add  a  bouquet  made  of  parsley,  one  bay-leaf  and  three  cloves ; 
cover  with  another  pan,  and  let  cook  slowly  for  four  or  five 
hours,  basting  frequently.  It  can  be  done  in  a  pot  just  as  well, 
and  should  be  covered  as  tight  as  possible ;  when  cooked,  strain 
off  the  vegetables;  thicken  the  gravy  with  brown  roux  and 
serve  it  with  the  meat.  Long,  slow  cooking  is  essential  to  make 
the  meat  tender.    K  cooked  too  fast  it  will  not  be  good. 

A  thin  steak  cut  from  the  round  may  be  cooked  the  same 
way,  and  a  little  ham  chopped  fine  may  be  added  to  the  stuffing. 
The  cost  of  this  dish  is  not  more  than  eighteen  to  twenty-five 
cents,  and  is  enough  for  four  or  five  persons. 

BAGOUT  OF  BEEF 

Cut  two  pounds  of  the  upper  round  of  beef  into  inch  squares ; 
dredge  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  roll  them  in  flour.     Put 


154  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

into  a  saucepan  some  butter  and  some  drippings,  or  a  little  suet, 
and  let  it  try  out,  using  enough  only  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
saucepan ;  when  the  grease  is  hot,  turn  in  the  pieces  of  meat, 
and  let  them  cook  untQ  well  browned  on  all  sides.  Watch,  and 
turn  them  as  soon  as  browned ;  then  draw  the  meat  to  one  side 
of  the  pan,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour;  let  the  flour 
brown,  and  add  a  cupful  of  stock  or  water,  and  stir  until  it 
comes  to  the  boiling-point ;  then  add  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt,  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  half  teaspoon ful  of  kitchen  bouquet; 
one  carrot  cut  into  blocks,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  onion; 
cover  the  saucepan,  and  let  it  simmer  (not  boil)  for  an  hour. 
Just  before  serving  add  two  tablespoonf uls  of  sherry  or  of  Ma- 
deira.   Serve  a  border  of  rice  around  the  ragout. 


BEEFSTEAK 

Some  one  has  said,  "  There  is  as  much  difference  be- 
tween beefsteaks  as  between  faces,  and  a  man  of  taste 
can  find  as  much  variety  in  a  dinner  at  the  Beefsteak 
Chib  as  at  the  most  plentifully-served  table  in  town." 

The  difference  between  a  thick  and  a  thin  steak  is 
particularly  marked  —  the  former  seems  like  an  alto- 
gether different  dish  from  the  latter.  Some  may  like  Thickness, 
their  steak  well  done,  but  it  is  not  a  taste  to  be  com- 
mended. A  perfect  steak  should  be  cut  one  and  a 
half  inches  thick,  and  cooked  so  that  on  both  sides  it 
has  a  crust  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  of  browned 
meat,  the  rest  being  an  even  red  color.  It  should  be 
puffed  and  elastic  from  the  confined  steam  of  the 
juices.  When  the  steak  is  over-cooked  the  steam 
and  the  juices  have  escaped,  leaving  the  meat  dry 
and  tasteless.  The  three  best  sauces  which  are  served 
with  steak  are  first  the  maitre  d'hotel  and  then  the 
Bearnaise  and  mushroom  sauces.  Tough  beefsteaks  Sauces, 
can  be  made  more  tender  by  pounding  them ;  but  a 
better  way  is  to  brush  them  on  both  sides  with  a  mix- 
ture of  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil  or  melted  butter.  The  steak  should 
then  stand  two  or  more  hours  before  being  cooked.  It 
is  the  fiber  of  meat  which  makes  it  tough,  and  this  fiber 
is  soluble  in  acetic  acid,  which  is  found  in  vinegar. 
Broiling  under  the  coals  is  better  than  over  them 
when  possible,  as  all  smoke  is  then  avoided. 

155 


156  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 


TO  BEOIL  A  BEEFSTEAK 


Time :  one  inch  thick,  eight  minutes  j  one  and  a  half  inches 
thick,  ten  minutes. 

Trim  a  steak  into  good  shape,  taking  off  the  end-piece  to  be 
used  in  some  other  form,  as  it  is  not  eatable  when  broiled; 
take  off  superfluous  fat ;  make  the  surface  smooth  by  striking 
it  with  the  broad  blade  of  knife;  heat  the  broiler  very  hot. 
Take  a  piece  of  the  fat,  trimmed  off  the  meat,  on  a  fork  and 
grease  the  broiler  well ;  lay  on  the  steak  with  the  outside  or 
skin  edge  toward  the  handle,  so  the  fat  may  run  on  the  meat. 
Place  it  close  to  the  hot  coals  and  count  ten  slowly ;  turn  it  and 
do  the  same ;  this  is  to  sear  the  outside  and  keep  the  juices  in ; 
then  hold  it  farther  from  the  coals  to  cook  more  slowly,  and 
turn  it  as  often  as  you  count  ten,  counting  about  as  fast  as  the 
clock  ticks.  If  turned  in  this  way  very  httle  fat  will  run  into 
the  fire,  and  it  also  cooks  slowly,  giving  an  even  color  all 
through.  The  flame  from  fat  does  not  injure  the  meat,  but 
the  smoke  must  be  avoided.  Wrap  a  napkin  around  the 
hand  holding  the  broiler  to  protect  it  from  the  heat.  A  steak 
ought  not  to  be  less  than  an  inch,  but  should  be  one  and  a  half 
to  one  and  three  quarters  inches  thick.  Allow  eight  to  ten 
minutes  for  cooking  according  to  the  thickness.  One  two 
inches  thick  will  take  fourteen  to  eighteen  minutes.  A  steak 
should  be  rare  but  not  raw,  should  have  a  uniform  red  color, 
and  be  full  of  juice. 

When  done  it  wiU  be  puffed  between  the  wires  of  broiler, 
and  will  offer  a  little  resistance  to  the  touch.  If  experience 
does  not  enable  one  to  judge  in  this  way,  remove  the  broiler  to 
a  dish  on  the  table,  and  make  a  small  clean  cut  on  one  side. 
Do  not  at  any  time  pierce  the  meat  with  a  fork.  Sprinkle 
it  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  spread  with  maatre  d'h6tel  butter. 
K  the  steak  has  to  stand  a  few  minutes  before  serving,  which 
should  be  avoided  if  possible,  dredge  it  at  once  with  salt  and 
pepper,  but  do  not  spread  with  the  maitre  d'h6tel  butter  until 
just  before  sending  it  to  the  table.    The  heat  of  the  meat  must 


MEATS  ♦        157 

melt  the  butter,  and  the  parsley  should  look  fresh  and  bright. 
Steak,  as  well  as  all  broiled  articles,  should  be  garnished  with 
slices  of  lemon  and  with  water-cress. 

Fried  potato-balls,  straws,  puffed,  or  Saratoga  potatoes  may 
be  served  on  the  same  dish. 

CHATEAUBRIAND 

The  Chateaubriand  is  cut  from  the  center  of  the  fillet ;  but 
a  good  substitute  is  a  tenderloin  steak  cut  two  inches  thick, 
the  bone  removed,  and  the  meat  then  turned  so  as  to  make 
a  circle.  Flatten  it  by  striking  with  broad  blade  of  knife  or  a 
cleaver.  Broil  slowly  as  directed  above  for  eighteen  minutes. 
Serve  with  maitre  d'hdtel  butter,  mushroom,  or  olive  sauce, 
placing  the  mushrooms  or  olives  on  top  of  the  steak,  the  sauce 
under  it.    (See  illustration  facing  page  152.) 

The  Chateaubriand  may  also  be  roasted  or  braised. 

MIGNON  FILLETS 

Cut  slices  from  the  end  of  the  fillet  of  beef  about  five  eighths  of 
an  inch  thick.  Press  and  trim  them  into  circles ;  dredge  with  salt 
and  pepper ;  saute  them  in  butter ;  spread  Bearnaise  sauce  on 
a  hot  dish,  and  lay  the  mignon  fillets  on  it,  or  lay  the  fillets  on 
croutons  of  the  same  size  as  the  fillet,  and  place  on  top  of  each 
one  a  small  spoonful  of  peas,  string-beans,  or  macedoine  of 
vegetables. 

CORNED  BEEF 

Put  corned  beef  into  cold  water;  using  enough  to  cover  it 
well ;  let  it  come  slowly  to  the  boiling-point ;  then  place  where 
it  will  simmer  only ;  allow  thirty  minutes  or  more  to  each  pound. 
It  is  improved  by  adding  a  few  soup  vegetables  the  last  hour  of 
cooking.  A  piece  from  the  round  is  the  best  cut,  and  should 
have  a  layer  of  fat.  If  cooked  very  slowly  as  directed,  it  wiU 
be  tender  and  juicy. 

If  the  piece  can  be  used  a  second  time,  trim  it  to  good  shape ; 
place  it  again  in  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled ;  let  it  get 


158   '         THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

heated  through ;  then  set  aside  to  cool  in  the  water  and  under 
pressure,  a  plate  or  deep  dish  holding  a  flat-iron  being  set  on 
top  of  the  meat.  The  water  need  not  rise  above  the  meat  suf- 
ficiently to  wet  the  iron.  When  cooled  under  pressure  the 
meat  is  more  firm  and  cuts  better  into  slices. 

Cabbage  is  usually  served  with  hot  corned  beef,  but  should 
not  be  boiled  with  it.  The  receipt  given  on  page  212  is  recom- 
mended, and  if  that  method  is  followed,  there  will  be  no  odor 
from  the  cooking,  and  the  objection  to  this  very  good  dish  will 
be  removed. 

CORNED  BEEF  HASH 

Chop  cooked  corned  beef,  using  some  of  the  fat.  Do  not 
make  it  too  fine ;  chop  some  cold  boiled  potatoes  (not  fine) ;  mix 
the  two  together  in  equal  proportions ;  season  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  onion  juice,  if  liked. 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  with  as  much 
milk,  stock,  or  hot  water  as  will  be  required  to  moisten  the 
hash ;  add  the  chopped  meat  and  potatoes ;  mix  them  together 
with  care  to  not  mash  the  potatoes ;  cover  and  cook  slowly  for 
half  an  hour,  or  until  a  crust  has  formed  on  the  bottom  of  the 
pan ;  then  turn  it  on  to  a  hot  dish,  like  an  omelet.  Hash  should 
not  be  like  mush,  but  the  meat  and  potato  quite  distinct,  and 
as  both  ingredients  have  been  already  cooked  they  need  only  to 
be  well  heated  and  incorporated  with  the  seasoning. 

HASH 

Unless  for  brown  hash,  or  corned  beef  hash,  potato  is  not 
used.  Chop  the  meat  to  a  fine  mince.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter  into  a  frying-pan  with  one  slice  of  onion ;  remove  the 
onion  when  cooked,  and  add  oiie  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  let 
it  brown,  thus  making  a  brown  roux,  if  the  hash  is  to  be  made 
of  beef  or  mutton.  Do  not  let  it  brown  if  it  is  to  be  used  for 
veal  or  chicken  hash.  To  the  brown  roux  add  slowly  a  cupful 
of  stock  or  hot  water ;  then  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  minced  meat ; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper ;  stir  until  well  incorporated,  and 


MEATS  159 

serve  at  once  on  toast.  To  a  white  roux  add  slowly  a  cupful 
of  milk;  then  add  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  veal  or  chicken 
chopped  fine ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cut  toast  into  large 
circles  with  a  biscuit-cutter.  Spread  them  with  a  thick  layer  of 
mince,  and  on  this  place  a  poached  egg,  neatly  trimmed  to  the 
same  size  as  the  toast.  It  can  be  cut  with  the  same  cutter,  or 
it  may  be  poached  in  a  muffln-ring  (see  page  263). 

Put  a  dash  of  pepper  on  the  center  of  yolk.  Garnish  with 
parsley.  This  makes  a  very  presentable  breakfast  or  luncheon 
dish. 

BEOWN  HASH 

Cut  lean  meat  into  small  dice ;  cut  also  cold  boiled  potatoes 
into  dice  of  the  same  size ;  mix  them  together,  and  place  in  a 
small  baking-pan ;  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  dot  plen- 
tifully with  bits  of  butter.  Put  into  hot  oven  to  brown ;  stir 
them  often  so  all  sides  will  brown  alike,  and  do  not  let  them 
become  too  dry. 

MAEROW-BOXES 

Have  the  bones  cut  into  pieces  two  or  three  inches  longj 
scrape  and  wash  them  very  clean;  spread  a  little  thick  dough  on 
each  end  to  keep  the  marrow  in ;  then  tie  each  bone  in  a  piece  of 
cloth  and  boil  them  for  one  hour.  Remove  the  cloth  and  paste, 
and  place  each  bone  on  a  square  of  toast;  sprinkle  with  red 
pepper  and  serve  very  hot.  Or  the  marrow-bone  can  be  boiled 
without  being  cut,  the  marrow  then  removed  with  a  spoon 
and  placed  on  squares  of  hot  toast.  Serve  for  luncheon.  (See 
illustration  facing  page  152.) 


MUTTON 


The  cuts 
and  cook- 
ing of 
Kutton. 


Vegetablea 
to  serve 

with 
Mutton. 


Anecdote 

of  Charles 

Lamb. 


Mutton  should  be  hung  for  some  days  before  being 
used.  The  leg  may  be  either  boiled  or  roasted  j  the 
saddle  always  roasted;  the  shoulder  boned,  stuffed  and 
roasted;  the  chops  broiled,  and  the  neck  stewed.  Ex- 
cept where  it  is  stewed,  mutton  should  be  cooked 
rare.  Mrs.  Brugi^re  recommends  pounding  the  leg  of 
mutton  before  cooking  it.  The  roasted  leg  or  the 
saddle  are  the  only  forms  of  mutton  permissible  to 
serve  at  a  ceremonious  dinner.  The  strong  taste  of 
mutton  is  in  the  fat.  Therefore  trim  off  a  part  of  the 
fat  from  the  outside,  and  when  baking  it  in  the  oven 
set  the  joint  on  a  rack  in  the  pan,  so  it  will  not  cook 
in  the  fat. 

Certain  vegetables  have  by  experience  been  found 
to  go  well  with  certain  meats.  Of  these  turnips  have 
been  established  as  the  accompaniment  of  mutton. 
This  has  been  amusingly  emphasized  by  an  anecdote 
told  of  Charles  Lamb.  On  an  occasion  when  riding 
in  a  stage  coach,  he  was  much  annoyed  by  a  Scotch 
farmer,  who  was  a  fellow  passenger,  asking  him  ques- 
tions about  the  crops.  ''And  pray,  sir,"  asked  the 
farmer,  "how  are  turnips  t'  year?"  "Why,"  stam- 
mered Lamb,  "  that  will  depend  upon  the  boiled  legs 
of  mutton." 

Turnips  and  carrots  cut  into  dice,  boiled  separately, 
then  mixed  and  covered  with  white  sauce,  also  make 
a  good  vegetable  dish  for  boiled  mutton.  Caper 
sauce  is  always  served  with  it. 

Another  anecdote  is  given  as  a  suggestion  for  an 

160 


MEATS  161 

expedient  in  case  the  mutton  is  too  underdone  (boiled 
mutton  should  be  red,  but  not  black).  An  English 
nobleman,  on  being  shown  a  Dutch  picture  represent- 
ing a  man  in  a  passion  with  his  wife  because  the  mut- 
ton was  underdone,  exclaimed,  "  What  a  fool  the  fel- 
low is  not  to  see  that  he  may  have  a  capital  broil." 

With  roasted  mutton  may  be  served  baked  turnips 
stuffed  with  seasoned  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  cream. 
It  is  a  Russian  dish.  Bananas  cut  in  two,  rolled  in 
egg  and  crumbs,  and  fried  like  croquettes,  are  also 
recommended  for  roast  mutton.  Mint  sauce  and 
green  peas  are  usually  served  with  spring  lamb. 


162  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

BOAST  LEO  OF  MUTTON 

Time  ten  minutes  per  pound  (rare) ;  fifteen  minutes  per  pound 
(moderately  well  done). 

Cut  the  bone  short,  place  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes ; 
then  add  one  cupful  of  hot  water;  baste  frequently.  Allow  ten 
minutes  to  the  pound  for  cooking  rare.  When  ready  to  serve 
conceal  the  bone  with  a  frill  of  paper,  or  a  few  leaves  of  parsley. 

BOAST  LOIN  OF  MUTTON 

Have  the  joints  cracked  entirely  through,  so  there  may  be  no 
trouble  in  carving.  Remove  the  fat  and  kidney.  Allow  nine 
minutes  to  the  pound ;  roast  the  same  as  the  leg. 

BOAST  SADDLE  OF  MUTTON 

The  saddle  is  the  back  of  the  animal.  If  split  it  would  be 
called  the  loin,  and  when  cut  gives  the  chops.  It  does  not 
furnish  very  much  meat  for  a  roast,  so  requires  to  be  a  large 
cut.  It  is  esteemed  for  its  handsome  appearance,  as  well  as  for 
its  flavor.  Remove  the  skin  from  the  top,  also  the  fat  and  kid- 
neys from  the  under  side.  The  suet  on  the  top  can  be  lightly 
cut  in  points,  and  a  little  raised  to  make  decoration.  Roll  the 
flaps  under,  and  tie  into  a  well  rounded  shape.  If  a  large  sad- 
dle is  used,  the  tail  is  left  on.  It  should  be  cooked  in  a  hot 
oven,  basted  frequently,  and  cooked  rare,  allowing  nine  minutes 
to  the  pound.  In  carving  cut  slices  the  length  of  the  saddle, 
and  parallel  to  the  back  bone;  then  slip  the  knife  uuder,  and 
separate  them  from  the  rib  bones.  After  the  top  is  carved,  the 
saddle  is  turned,  and  the  tenderloin,  which  lies  on  the  under 
side,  is  cut  in  the  same  way. 

Serve  currant  jelly  with  the  saddle  of  mutton. 

BOLLED  LOIN  (CBOWN  BOAST) 

Have  the  butcher  cut  a  full  loin,  split  the  bone  between  the 
chops,  trim  the  rib  bones  as  for  French  chops,  and  chop  them  oflf 


CROWN  Rt)AM.       A    HACK  XJF  MLTTOX,  THE   CENTEE  FILLED   WITH   SARATOGA  POTA- 
TOES.     (SEE  PAGE   162.) 


CROWN  ROAST  PREPARED  FOR  COOKING. 


-d 


HONKI)    AND   STrFFF.n   SHi  )ir.lil-K   <)l     Ml  Ti(>\.      (SKF,    PAGE    163.) 


MEATS  163 

to  a  uniform  length;  then  roll  the  loin  backward  into  a  circle,  and 
tie  securely.  Have  a  thick  slice  of  larding  pork  wrapped  around 
each  bone,  so  it  will  not  bum  while  cooking.  Baste  frequently 
while  roasting,  and  allow  nine  minutes  to  the  pound.  Serve 
with  Saratoga  or  other  fancy  fried  potatoes  in  the  basket-like 
top  formed  by  the  hemes.    Place  a  frill  of  paper  on  each  bone. 

SHOULDER  OF  MUTTON  STUFFED 

Have  the  butcher  carefully  remove  the  blade  from  the  shoul- 
der, and  fill  the  space  with  a  mixture  made  of 

1  cupful  of  bread-crumbs.  Juice  of  1  lemon. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  1  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt. 

1  tablespoonf ul  chopped  parsley.     J  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 
1  dozen  oysters.  1  egg. 

Sew  up  the  opening,  roast  in  the  oven  with  a  little  water  in 
the  pan;  allow  fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound,  and  baste  fre- 
quently. Serve  with  the  gravy  from  the  pan,  after  the  grease  is 
carefully  poured  off.  More  oysters  may  be  used,  or  they  may  be 
omitted  altogether.  A  stuflBng  may  be  made  of  chopped  meat, 
celery,  onion,  mushrooms,  crumbs,  egg,  and  seasoning  of  salt 
and  pepper. 

A  stuffed  shoulder  can  be  pressed  into  a  shape  to  resemble 
a  fowl  or  a  duck,  and  garnished  so  as  to  make  an  ornamental 
dish. 

BOILED  MUTTON 

Time  fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound. 

Put  the  mutton  in  just  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  it,  and 
put  on  the  lid  of  the  pot.  After  fifteen  minutes  draw  it  aside, 
and  let  it  simmer  for  the  required  time.  Thirty  minutes  before 
removing  the  meat  add  some  soup  vegetables.  They  will  give 
flavor  to  the  meat,  and  enrich  the  water,  which  may  be  used  for 
soup  the  next  day.  Cut  the  carrot  and  turnip  in  half  inch 
thick  slices,  and  stamp  with  a  fluted  cutter,  so  the  rims  wiU  be 
scalloped.    Place  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish,  and  rub  lightly  over  it 


164  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

enough  of  the  white  sauce  (to  be  used  for  the  caper  sauce) 
to  make  the  surface  white  and  smooth.  Sprinkle  with  chopped 
parsley  or  capers.  Take  the  sliced  vegetables,  cut  a  hole  in  the 
center,  and  string  them  alternately  on  the  bone,  which  will  pro- 
trude at  each  end.  This  will  give  the  effect  of  skewers,  conceal 
the  bone,  and  make  the  dish  more  presentable. 
Serve  with  caper  sauce. 


CAFEE  SAUCE 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  saucepan;  when 
melted,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour;  cook  for  a  few  minutes, 
but  not  brown ;  then  add  one  cupful  of  water  in  which  the  mut- 
ton was  boiled;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  strain,  and  add 
one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  capers. 


BAGOUT  OF  MUTTON  OB  LAMB 

One  and  one  half  pounds  of  the  neck  of  mutton  or  lamb  cut 
into  pieces  one  inch  square. 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter.    IJ  cupfuls  of  water  or  stock. 
1  tablespoonful  of  flour.       1  teaspoonf ul  of  salt. 
1  onion.  i  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 

1  carrot.  Sprig  of  parsley. 

i  can  of  peas.  1  bay-leaf. 

1  clove. 

Put  the  butter  into  a  frying-pan;  when  melted  add  the  flour, 
and  let  brown.  Then  add  the  carrot  and  onion  cut  into  dice,  and 
the  mutton.  Cook,  stirring  frequently,  until  all  are  browned, 
using  care  that  they  do  not  burn;  it  will  take  about  twenty 
minutes.  Then  add  the  stock  or  water,  and  the  seasoning, 
having  the  herbs  in  a  bouquet,  so  they  can  be  removed.  Cover 
closely,  and  let  simmer  for  two  hours.  Add  the  peas  ten  min- 
utes before  removing  from  the  fire. 


MEATS  165 

EAQOUT  OF  COID  BOILED  MUTTON 

2  cupfuls  of  cold  boiled  mut-      2  tablespoonf uls  of  butter. 

ton  cut  in  inch  squares.  J  can  of  peas. 

1  onion  sliced.  1  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt. 

1  cupful  of  stock  or  water  in      J  teaspoonf  ul  of  pepper. 

which  mutton  was  boiled.       1  head  of  lettuce. 
Farina  balls. 

Put  all  the  ingi-edients,  except  the  lettuce  and  farina  balls, 
into  a  saucepan  together;  cover  closely,  and  simmer  very 
slowly  for  one  hour;  stir  occasionally,  but  with  care  not  to 
break  the  meat  or  peas.  When  ready  to  serve,  taste  to  see 
if  the  seasoning  is  right,  and  pour  on  a  hot  dish.  Lay  around 
the  edge,  and  close  to  the  meat,  the  crisp  leaves  of  one  head  of 
lettuce,  and  the  farina  balls  (see  page  223).  This  way  of  utiliz- 
ing cold  mutton  will  be  found  ver}'^  good.  The  garnishing 
makes  it  a  presentable  dish,  and  is  a  good  accompaniment  in 
place  of  other  vegetables. 

IBISH   STEW 

Oat  the  neck  of  mutton  into  pieces  two  and  one  half  or  three 
inches  square.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter,  and  let  them  brown ;  stir  frequently  so  they  do 
not  burn.  When  browned  add  enough  water  to  cover  them 
well,  and  two  or  three  onions  cut  into  pieces.  Cover  closely 
and  let  simmer  two  hours.  Then  add  more  water  if  necessary, 
some  parboiled  potatoes  cut  in  two,  and  a  few  slices  of  carrot, 
salt,  and  pepper  to  taste;  cover  and  let  cook  one  hour  more.  A 
teaspoonf  ul  of  Worcestershire  sauce  is  an  improvement.  The 
gravy  must  be  quite  thick,  so  too  much  water  must  not  be 
used.    The  potatoes  should  be  very  soft,  but  not  broken. 

MUTTON  CHOPS 

Loin  chops  should  be  cut  one  and  one  fourth  inches  thick, 
and  the  fat  trimmed  off,  leaving  them  round ;  or  the  end  pieces 


166  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

may  be  pared  off  thin,  wrapped  around  the  chops,  and  fastened 
with  a  skewer,  making  the  chop  into  the  form  of  a  circle. 

The  breast  chops  are  cut  a  little  thinner,  the  bones  scraped 
and  cut  into  even  lengths.  They  are  called  French  chops  when 
the  bones  are  bare.  Whichever  kind  of  chops  are  used,  they 
should  be  all  of  uniform  size  and  shape. 

Broil  the  chops  over  or  under  hot  coals,  turning  the  broiler 
as  often  as  you  count  ten  slowly,  using  the  same  method  as  in 
broiling  steak.  When  the  meat  offers  a  little  resistance  and 
is  puffy,  it  is  done.  If  cooked  too  long  the  chops  will  be  hard 
and  dry.  If  properly  seared  at  first  the  juices  are  shut  in,  and 
the  inflation  is  caused  by  the  confined  steam  from  the  juices. 
It  will  take  eight  to  ten  minutes  to  broil  chops  which  are  one 
inch  thick.  When  done  sprinkle  over  them  a  little  salt  and 
pepper  and  butter.  Dress  them  on  a  hot  dish  in  a  circle,  the 
chops  overlapping. 

Green  peas,  string-beans,  or  any  small  vegetable,  or  fancy- 
fried  potatoes,  such  as  balls,  straws,  Saratoga,  etc.,  may  be  served 
on  the  same  dish,  and  placed  in  the  center  of  the  circle,  or  around 
the  chops.  Spinach  or  mashed  potato  pressed  into  form  of  socle 
may  be  used,  and  the  chops  rested  against  it,  the  bones  pointing 
up  or  slanting.  Paper  frills  placed  on  the  ends  of  the  bones  im- 
prove their  appearance. 

CHOPS  IN  PAPEB  CASES 

Put  into  a  frying-pan  some  slices  of  salt  pork ;  when  tried 
out,  lay  in  neatly  trimmed  and  seasoned  lamb  or  veal  chops ; 
let  them  saut6  until  haK  cooked ;  remove  the  chops,  and  to  the 
pan  add  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  onion  chopped  fine ;  when  the  onion 
is  cooked  add  a  cupful  of  stock  and  a  cupful  of  mixture  containing 
minced  veal  or  chicken,  a  little  ham,  and  mushrooms,  chopped 
parsley,  and  truffles  if  convenient;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Put 
a  spoonful  of  this  sauce  on  a  weU-buttered  or  oiled  paper,  cut  in 
heart-shape ;  lay  the  chop  on  the  sauce,  and  on  the  chop  put 
another  spoonful  of  the  sauce.    Fold  the  paper  over,  and  plait 


KAGOUT  OF  MUTTON  GARNISHED  WITH  FARINA  BALLS  AND  LETTUCE.     (SEE  PAGE  165.) 


THREE  KINDS  OF  MUTTON  CHOPS. 


1.  English  Mutton  Chop. 

2.  Freucli  Chop. 


3.    Boned  and  Rolled  Chop. 
(See  page  165.) 


MEATS  167 

the  edges  together  so  as  to  completely  enclose  the  chop.  Lay 
the  enclosed  chops  on  a  buttered  dish,  and  place  them  in  the 
oven  for  ten  minutes ;  serve  on  the  same  dish  very  hot.  Chops 
can  also  be  broiled  in  well-greased  paper,  and  with  a  little  care 
it  is  easily  done  without  burning  the  paper.  Heavy  writing  pa- 
per should  be  used  ;  the  fire  should  be  moderate,  and  the  chops 
turned  frequently.  They  are  served  in  the  papers,  and  are  very 
good,  as  they  hold  all  the  juices  of  the  meat. 

CHOPS  A  LA  MAINTEirON 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan ;  when  hot 
add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour;  let  the  flour  cook  a  few  minutes; 
then  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  parsley,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash  of 
pepper;  moisten  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  stock;  mix  well 
together  and  set  aside  to  cool.  Have  six  French  chops  cut  one 
inch  thick.  With  a  sharp  knife  split  the  chops  in  two  without 
separating  them  at  the  bone;  spread  the  mushroom  mixture 
between  the  opened  chops ;  press  the  edges  well  together,  and 
broil  for  eight  minutes  j  serve  with  an  olive  sauce. 

SPRING  LAMB 

Spring  lamb  is  best  when  two  months  old.  It  must  be  used 
when  fresh,  and  must  be  thoroughly  cooked,  but  not  dried.  It 
is  divided  into  the  fore  and  hind  quarters,  the  whole  of  either 
not  being  too  much  to  serve  at  one  time;  the  former  are  less 
expensive  than  the  latter,  but  the  meat  is  equally  sweet  and 
good.  Roast  it  in  a  hot  oven  with  a  little  water  in  the  pan ;  al- 
low fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes  to  the  pound,  and  baste  fre- 
quently ;  serve  with  it  mint  sauce,  and  green  peas  or  asparagus 
tips  for  vegetable. 

When  using  a  fore  quarter,  have  the  bones  well  cracked,  so 
that  in  carving  it  may  be  cut  into  squares,  or  have  the  shoulder 
blade  removed.  A  very  good  dressing  may  be  made  on  the 
table  as  foUows:  cut  around  the  shoulder  bone;  lift  and  place 


168  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK        r 

under  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  the  juice  of  one  lemon, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  half  teaspoonf ul  of  pepper.  Press 
the  pieces  together,  and  let  stand  a  minute  to  melt  the  butter 
before  carving. 

VEAL 

The  flesh  of  veal  should  be  pink  and  firm,  the  bones  hard. 
If  it  has  a  blue  tinge  and  is  flabby,  it  has  been  killed  too  young, 
and  is  unwholesome.  Like  lamb,  it  must  be  used  while  per- 
fectly fresh  and  be  thoroughly  cooked.  It  contains  less  nour- 
ishment than  other  kinds  of  meat;  also,  having  less  flavor, 
it  requires  more  seasoning.  Veal  is  frequently  used  as  a  substi- 
tute for  chicken.  It  can  be  made  into  croquettes  and  salads 
very  acceptably. 

BOAST  FILLET  OF  VEAL 

The  fillet  is  cut  from  the  upper  part  of  the  leg,  and  should  be 
four  to  six  inches  thick.  Only  one  good  fillet  can  be  cut  from 
the  leg.  Press  and  tie  it  into  good  round  shape.  Lay  a  few 
slices  of  larding  pork  over  the  top.  Place  it  in  very  hot  oven 
for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  lower  the  heat  j  baste  frequently  with 
water  from  the  pan  j  allow  eighteen  to  twenty  minutes  to  the 
pound.  It  must  be  thoroughly  cooked,  but  not  dried.  Re- 
move the  slices  of  pork  from  top  a  half  hour  before  it  is  done, 
so  it  may  brown.  The  bone  may  be  removed  from  the  fillet  be- 
fore cooking,  and  the  spa.ce  filled  with  stufl&ng  made  of  crumbs, 
sweet  herbs,  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little  chopped  salt  pork. 
Thicken  the  gravy  in  ptm  to  serve  with  the  fillet. 

STUFFED  SHOULDER  OF  VEAL 

Twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes  per  pound. 

Have  the  blade  removed,  and  fill  the  space  with  a  stuflBng 
made  of  bread  crumbs,  thyme,  marjoram,  lemon  juice,  chopped 
salt  pork,  salt  and  pepper,  and  an  egg',  also  chopped  mush- 
rooms, if  desired.    Sew  up  the  opening,  press  and  tie  it  into 


MEATS  1«9 

good  shape,  and  roast  the  same  as  the  fillet.  The  stuf&ng  may 
also  be  made  of  minced  veal  cut  from  the  knuckle,  highly 
seasoned. 

FBIGANDEAU  OP  VEAL 

The  fricandeau  is  the  most  choice  cut  of  veal.  It  is  taken 
from  the  upper  round  of  the  leg,  and  is  one  side  of  the  fillet. 
As  it  destroys  that  cut,  it  commands  the  highest  price.  It 
should  be  cut  four  inches  thick,  and  is  usually  larded  and 
braised.  Place  it  in  a  baking-pan  on  a  layer  of  sliced  salt  pork, 
and  chopped  carrot,  onion,  and  turnip.  Add  a  bouquet  of 
herbs,  a  cupful  of  stock,  and  enough  water  to  fill  the  pan  one 
and  a  half  inches  deep.  Cover  closely,  and  let  cook  in  moder- 
ate oven,  allowing  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound;  baste  fre- 
quently. Remove  the  cover  for  the  last  half  hour,  so  the  meat 
may  brown.    Strain  the  gravy  from  the  pan  to  serve  with  it. 

VEAL  CUTLETS 

Leave  the  cutlet  whole  or  cut  it  into  pieces  of  uniform  size 
and  shape  ;  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper ;  dip  in  egg  and  cover 
with  bread  crumbs  or  with  flour ;  saut§  cutlets  in  drippings,  or 
in  a  frying-pan  after  slices  of  salt  pork  have  been  tried  out.  Cook 
until  well  browned  on  both  sides;  then  place  them  on  a  hot 
dish  and  moisten  the  top  with  a  little  lemon  juice;  or,  omitting 
the  lemon  juice,  serve  with  them  a  tomato  or  a  Bearnaise  sauce, 
or  make  a  gravy  by  adding  a  little  flour  to  the  grease  in  the 
pan,  and  diluting  to  right  consistency,  after  the  flour  is  browned, 
with  stock  or  water.  If  the  gravy  is  used,  put  it  in  the  bottom 
of  the  dish  and  place  the  cutlets  on  it. 

A  PLAIN  POT-PEE 

Cut  veal,  chicken,  or  beef  into  pieces ;  put  them  with  strips 
of  pork  into  boiling  water  and  cook  until  tender ;  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  butter.  There  should  be  enough  liquid  to 
make  a  generous  amount  of  gravy.    When  the  stew  is  ready 


170  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

cook  the  dumplings,  and  place  them  on  the  same  dish  around 
the  stew.  If  suet  dumplings  are  used,  they  must  be  placed  in 
the  pot  as  soon  as  it  boils  in  order  to  cook  them  a  sufficient 
length  of  time.  It  is  better  to  cook  either  kind  of  dumplings 
in  a  separate  pot  with  plenty  of  water,  and  not  remove  them 
until  the  stew  is  dished  and  ready  to  be  sent  to  the  table, 

DUMPLINGS  WITH  BAKING  POWDER 

2  cupfuls  of  flour.  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

^  teaspoonful  of  salt.         1  cupful  of  mQk. 

Mix  the  flour,  salt,  and  baking  powder  well  together,  then  stir 
in  quickly  the  milk.  Have  the  dough  quite  soft.  Drop  the  bat- 
ter from  a  spoon  into  the  stew,  or  into  boUing  water;  or,  if 
preferred,  make  the  dough  just  consistent  enough  to  roll,  and 
cut  it  into  squares.  The  stew  must  not  be  allowed  to  stop  sim- 
mering after  the  dumplings  are  in ;  and  they  must  be  served 
immediately  after  being  taken  from  the  pot,  or  they  will  fall. 
It  wiU  take  ten  minutes  to  cook  them. 

DUMPLINGS  WITH  SUET 

1  cupful  of  chopped  suet.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

2  scant  cupfuls  of  flour.  J  cupful  of  cold  water. 

Mix  together  lightly  the  flour,  suet  and  salt;  then  with  a 
knife  stir  in  quickly  the  water.  The  dough  must  be  soft,  but 
not  sticky.  Put  it  on  a  board,  and  roll  it  lightly  to  one  inch 
thickness,  and  place  it  on  the  boiling  stew  in  one  cake.  The 
stew  must  not  stop  boiling  for  a  moment,  or  the  dumpling  will 
fall.  Cook  for  one  hour.  The  dough  may  be  rolled  into  balls 
if  preferred.  When  the  dumpling  is  put  in,  draw  the  pot  for- 
ward where  it  will  heat  quickly,  and  not  arrest  the  boiling. 
When  it  is  thoroughly  hot,  place  it  where  it  will  simmer 
continually  during  the  hour  of  cooking.  If  this  rule  is  ob- 
served, it  will  be  light  and  spongy.  Where  cooked  meat  is 
used,  which  does  not  require  such  long  cooking,  the  dumplings 
may  be  boiled  in  water. 


JELLIED  VKAL   D1:;coUAT1::D    WilU    SLICKS    Ui'   HARD-BOILED    EGG. 
WITH  LETTUCE. 


GAKNISHED 


COLD  HAM  COVERED  WITH  CHAUDFROID  SAUCE  AND  DECORATED  WITH  TRUFFLES 
TO  IMITATE  BRANCHES  — ORNAMENT  ON  TOP  A  HALF-OLIVE  SURROUNDED  WITH 
SLICES  OP  PICKLE  — A  PIECE  OP  THE  HAM-SKIN  LEFT  ON  THE  BONE  END  AND 
THE  EDGE  OF  THE  SKIN  DECORATED  WITH  TRIANGULAR  AND  DIAMOND-SHAPED 
PIECES  OF  TRUFFLE  — PAPER  FRILL  ON  HAM-BONE  —  DISH  GARNISHED  WITH 
LBXIUCB,  WATER-CRESS,  OR  PARSLET. 


MEATS  171 

This  mixture  can  be  used  for  fruit  and  for  roly-poly  pud- 
dings (see  page  443). 

JELLIED  VEAL 

Wipe  a  knuckle  of  veal  clean  with  a  wet  cloth;  have  it  well 
broken.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  water,  or 
enough  to  cover  it.  Tie  in  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth  one  table- 
spoonful  each  of  chopped  ouion,  carrot,  and  turnip,  a  little 
parsley  and  celery,  three  cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace.  Put  it 
in  the  pot.  Boil  slowly  until  the  veal  falls  from  the  bone; 
then  strain  it,  and  put  the  liquor  again  in  the  saucepan;  sea- 
son it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  lemon  juice.  Reduce  it  to 
one  quart  by  boiling  with  the  cover  off  the  saucepan.  Cat  two 
hard-boiled  eggs  into  thin  slices,  and  with  them  ornament  the 
bottom  of  a  plain  moldj  a  brick  ice-cream  mold,  or  a  small  tin 
basin  will  do.  Put  a  very  little  of  the  liquor  in  to  fix  the  orna- 
ment, but  not  enough  to  float  the  egg  slices.  When  set  add 
a  little  more  of  the  liquor,  enough  to  make  a  layer  of  jelly  one 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  When  that  is  set  fill  the  mold  with 
the  veal,  and  place  slices  of  boiled  egg  between  the  layers  of 
meat.  Around  the  sides  of  the  mold  lay  in  slices  of  egg.  Then 
pour  in  as  much  of  the  liquor  as  it  will  hold,  and  set  away  to 
harden.    This  makes  a  good  cold  dish  to  use  with  salad. 

VEAL  LOAP 

3  pounds  of  veal.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

^  pound  of  ham,  or  ^  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

J  pound  of  salt  pork.  1  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice. 

2  eggs.  J  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace. 

1  cupful  of  fine  bread  or  ^  teaspoonful  of  allspice, 
cracker  crumbs. 

Chop  the  veal  and  ham  very  fine,  mix  into  it  the  other  ingre- 
dients, and  mold  it  into  a  loaf;  or  press  it  into  a  mold  or  tin  to 
form  a  loaf;  then  turn  it  on  a  baking  dish.  Baste  it  with 
beaten  egg,  and  sprinkle  it  with  bread  crumbs.     Cook  in  mod- 


172  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

erate  oven  for  two  hours,  basting  it  several  times  with  melted 
butter  and  water.    This  dish  is  to  be  served  cold. 

VEAL  SCALLOP 

Chop  veal  to  a  fine  mince.  Put  into  a  baking-dish  alternate 
layers  of  veal  and  bread  crumbs,  sprinkling  the  meat  with  salt 
and  pepper,  the  crumbs  with  bits  of  butter.  Over  the  top 
pour  a  white  sauce  made  of  one  tablespoonful  each  of  but- 
ter and  flour,  and  one  cupful  of  milk.  Spread  over  it  a  layer  of 
crumbs,  and  put  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

Rice  may  be  used  instead  of  the  crumbs,  and  tomatoes  instead 
of  the  white  sauce. 

LIVEB  Aim  BACOIT 

Cut  the  liver  into  slices  one  half  inch  thick}  lay  them  in  boil- 
ing water  for  a  few  minutes,  then  dry  and  cover  them  with  flour 
and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Lay  in  a  hot  frying-pan  very  thin 
slices  of  bacon.  When  tried  out  enough  for  the  bacon  to  be 
crisp,  remove  it  and  put  the  slices  of  liver  in  the  same  frying 
pan.  Cook  until  thoroughly  done,  but  not  dried.  Remove  the 
liver,  and  to  the  fat  in  the  pan  add  a  spoonful  of  flour;  when 
the  flour  is  brown,  add  enough  water  slowly  to  make  a  thick 
sauce.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  liver,  and  place  the  bacon 
around  it.  Liver  is  generally  cut  thin,  but  it  will  be  found 
much  better  when  cut  a  half  inch  or  more  thick.  The  bacon 
should  be  cut  thin,  and  cooked  quickly;  the  liver  cut  thick,  and 
cooked  slowly. 

BROILED  LIVER 

Slice  the  liver.  Let  it  soak  in  hot  water  a  few  minutes  to 
draw  out  the  blood.  Dry  it,  rub  it  with  butter,  and  broil  five  to 
eight  minutes,  turning  it  constantly.  It  should  not  be  cooked 
until  dry.    When  done,  spread  it  with  butter,  and  serve  at  once. 

BRAISED  LIVER 

Use  a  calf  s  or  lamb's  liver. 

Lard  it  in  two  or  three  rows.  Cut  into  dice  one  carrot,  one 
turnip,  one  onion,  a  stalk  of  celery,  and  the  bits  left  from  the 


MEATS  173 

lardoons  of  salt  pork;  put  them  in  a  baking  pan,  and  on  this 
bed  of  vegetables  place  the  larded  liver.  Add  two  cupf uls  of 
stock  or  hot  water,  and  a  bouquet  of  one  sprig  of  parsley,  one 
bay-leaf,  and  two  cloves.  Cover  with  another  pan,  and  cook  in 
moderate  oven  for  two  hours;  baste  occasionally.  Serve  with 
the  vegetables  from  the  pan,  on  the  same  dish,  placed  around 
the  liver.  Pour  over  the  liver  a  sauce  made  as  follows:  Put  in 
a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter;  when  melted,  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  until  browned;  then  add 
slowly  the  strained  liquor  from  the  pan.  If  there  is  not  enough 
to  make  one  cupful,  add  water  to  make  that  quantity.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add,  if  convenient,  one  tablespoonful 
each  of  Worcestershire  sauce  and  mushroom  catsup. 

STEWED  KIDNETS 

Beef,  calf  or  lamb  kidneys  may  be  used.  Be  sure  they  are 
very  fresh.  Remove  the  fat  and  white  center,  then  soak  them 
for  one  hour  in  salted  water.  Cut  them  in  slices  one  half  inch 
thick,  cover  the  slices  with  flour,  and  saut6  them  for  five 
minutes  in  one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Add  to  the  frying-pan 
one  thin  slice  of  onion  and  one  half  cupful  of  water,  and  sim- 
mer for  ten  minutes,  not  longer.  The  kidneys  will  be  tough 
and  hard  if  cooked  too  long.  Just  before  serving,  add  one 
quarter  cupful  of  sherry;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  One  table- 
spoon of  Worcestershire  sauce  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
sherry. 

TBIPE 

Soak  the  tripe  for  several  hours,  then  scrape  it  thoroughly 
clean,  put  it  in  salted  water,  and  simmer  it  for  three  or  four 
hours,  until  it  is  like  jelly.  Drain  off  the  water,  and  put  the 
tripe  aside  until  ready  to  use.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in 
a  saucepan;  when  hot  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  cook 
for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  brown.  Then  add  slowly  one  cup- 
ful of  milk,  and  stir  until  smooth.  Add  a  half  teaspoonf  ul  of 
salt,  a  dash  of  pepper,  and  a  half  teaspoonf  ul  of  onion  juice; 
then  add  one  cupful  of  the  boUed  tripe.  Stir  until  the  tripe  is 
heated,  and  serve  immediately. 


174  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

CALF'S  HEAET 

Wash  the  heart,  but  do  not  let  it  soak,  or  stand  in  water. 
Fill  it  with  a  stuffing  made  of  minced  meat  or  of  bread,  either 
one  of  them  seasoned  with  onion,  sage,  thyme,  marjoram,  pep- 
per and  salt,  and  an  egg  to  bind  it.  Bake  it  for  two  hours, 
basting  it  frequently  with  water  from  the  pan.  When  the 
heart  is  cooked  remove  it,  and  add  to  the  pan  a  tablespoonf  ul  of 
flour;  stir  until  it  has  browned.  Then,  if  there  is  not  enough 
liquor  in  the  pan,  add  to  it  just  enough  water  to  make  a  thick 
sauce.  Strain  this  over  the  heart,  and  serve  on  the  same  dish 
some  boiled  and  browned  onions. 

BEEF'S  TONGUE 

If  a  smoked  tongue  is  used,  soak  it  over  night.  Put  it  in  cold 
water,  and  let  it  come  to  the  boiling  point.  Then  simmer  for 
four  hours,  or  until  tender. 

Boil  a  fresh  tongue  in  salted  water  one  and  a  half  hours.  A 
few  soup  vegetables  may  be  added  to  the  water  if  convenient. 
Before  putting  it  in  the  water,  trim  it  carefully,  and  skewer  it 
into  good  shape.  When  it  is  boiled  remove  the  skin.  If  it  is 
to  be  used  cold,  replace  the  skewer,  put  it  again  in  the  water 
in  which  it  was  boiled,  and  let  it  remain  there  until  cold; 
then  cover  it  with  a  meat  glaze  colored  red.  If  served  hot,  pour 
over  it  a  white  sauce,  and  garnish  with  parsley  and  sliced 
pickle;  or  serve  with  it  a  piquante  sauce.  Spinach  is  a  good 
vegetable  to  serve  with  tongue. 

HOT  SLICED  TOKOTJE 

Make  a  piquante  sauce  (see  page  283).  Lay  slices  of  boiled 
tongue  cut  one  half  inch  thick  into  it,  and  let  them  remain 
until  well  heated.  Arrange  the  hot  slices  in  a  circle,  the  slices 
overlapping,  and  pour  the  sauce  in  the  center.  Garnish  with 
capers,  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  gherkins;  or  make  a 
form  of  spinach  by  pressing  into  a  bowl  weU-chopped  and  sea- 


MEATS  175 

soned  spinach.  Tarn  it  on  the  center  of  a  dish,  and  lay  the 
slices  around  or  against  it.  Serve  with  piquante  or  with  pickle 
sauce. 

COLD  TONGUE 

Lay  thick  slices  of  tongue  in  a  circle,  the  pieces  overlapping. 
Place  in  the  center  a  bunch  of  nasturtium  blossoms  and  lettuce 
leaves.    Serve  with  Tartare  or  cold  Bearnaise  sauee. 

JELLIED   TONGUE 

Cut  tongue  into  slices.  Lay  them  together  to  look  like  a 
solid  piece,  and  place  them  in  a  square  or  brick-shaped  mold. 
Sprinkle  a  few  capers  in  the  bottom  of  the  mold  before  putting 
in  the  tongue.  Have  the  mold  only  large  enough  for  the 
tongue  to  fit  in  easily,  but  be  held  in  place.  FUl  with  aspic 
jeUy  (see  page  321). 

BOILED  CALF'S  HEAD 

Have  the  head  split  open,  and  the  gristle  about  the  nose  and 
eyes,  and  the  eyes  and  ears,  removed  by  the  butcher.  Wash 
thoroughly  the  head;  remove  the  tongue  and  brains;  parboil 
the  brains,  and  set  them  aside  with  the  tongue  to  use  on  an- 
other occasion  (see  page  307).  Blanch  the  head  by  putting  it 
into  cold  water;  when  it  comes  to  the  boiling  point,  pour  off 
the  hot  water,  and  cover  it  with  cold  water.  When  cold,  rub  it 
with  lemon.  Put  it  into  boiling  water,  enough  to  cover  it;  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  or  white  wine,  twelve  pepper- 
corns, one  bay-leaf,  one  onion,  one  carrot,  and  a  sprig  of  parsley. 
Cover  the  pot,  and  let  boil  for  two  hours,  or  until  tender,  but 
not  ready  to  fall  apart.  When  done,  take  out  the  bones  care- 
fully, and  lay  the  meat  on  a  baking  dish  in  compact  shape. 
Rub  over  the  top  with  egg,  sprinkle  it  with  bread  crumbs  and 
bits  of  butter,  and  set  in  the  oven  to  brown.  Serve  with  it  a 
Poulette  or  an  Allemande  sauce. 

Put  any  of  the  meat  left  over  after  being  served  in  this  man- 
ner into  a  mold;  fill  it  up  with  water  in  which  the  head  was 


176  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

boiled;  season  to  taste.    This  will  make  a  jellied  meat  very 
good  to  use  with  salad. 

The  water  from  the  pot  will  make  a  good  soup.  (See  mock 
turtle  soup.)  Four  separate  dishes  can  be  made  from  one  head, 
viz. :  boiled  calf  s  head,  cold  jellied  calf  s  head,  mock  turtle  soup, 
tongue  and  brains,  with  white,  Poulette,  or  Vinaigrette  sauce. 

CALFS  HEAD  WITH  VUTAIGBETTE  SAUCE 

After  the  calf  s  head  is  boiled  as  directed  above,  take  it  from 
the  water,  remove  the  meat,  and  press  it  into  a  square  mold  or 
tin,  and  let  it  get  entirely  cold.  It  can  then  be  cut  into  uni- 
form pieces.  When  ready  to  serve,  heat  some  of  the  liquor  in 
which  the  head  was  boiled,  cut  some  long  slices  from  the  form 
of  cold  calf  s  head,  lay  them  in  the  hot  liquor  to  become  hot 
only.  Remove  them  carefully,  and  place  them  on  a  hot  dish. 
Pour  over  them  a  Vinaigrette  sauce.     (For  sauce,  see  page  307.) 

PORK 

Salt  pork  and  bacon  should  be  kept  always  at  hand ;  the  former 
for  larding,  spreading  in  thin  slices  over  baked  meats,  poultry, 
and  birds,  and  various  other  uses  as  directed  in  many  receipts. 
Bacon  is  an  appetizing  accompaniment  to  many  breakfast 
dishes.  Fresh  pork  is  used  only  in  cold  weather,  and  must  be 
thoroughly  cooked. 

ROAST  FOEK 

The  roasting  pieces  are  the  leg,  loin,  spare-rib,  and  shoulder. 
If  the  skin  is  left  on  cut  it  through  in  lines  both  ways,  forming 
small  squares.  Put  a  cupful  of  water  in  the  pan  with  the 
meat ;  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  allowing  twenty  to  twenty-five 
minutes  to  the  pound.  Pork  must  be  thoroughly  cooked. 
Serve  with  apple  sauce  or  fried  apples. 

FRIED  AFFLES 

Cut  slices  one  half  inch  thick  across  the  apple,  giving  circles. 
Do  not  remove  the  skin  or  core. 

Or  cut  the  apples  in  quarters,  leaving  on  the  skin  and  remov- 


MEATS  177 

ing  the  core.    Saute  the  apples  in  butter  or  drippings  until  ten- 
der, but  not  soft  enough  to  lose  form. 

Serve  the  fried  apples  on  the  same  dish  with  pork  as  gar- 
nishing. 

FOBS  CHOPS 

Cut  pork  chops  not  more  than  one  half  inch  thick.  Trim  off 
most  of  the  fat,  dredge  them  with  flour,  and  saut6  them  until 
thoroughly  cooked,  and  well  browned.  It  will  take  about  twen- 
ty-five minutes.    Serve  with  fried  apples. 

BOILED  HAM 

Soak  the  ham  over  night,  or  for  several  hours.  Thoroughly 
wash  and  scrape  it.  Put  it  into  cold  water;  let  it  come  to  the 
boiling  point;  then  simmer,  allowing  twenty  minutes  to  the 
pound.  Pierce  the  ham  with  a  fine  skewer.  If  done  the  skewer 
can  be  withdrawn  easily  without  sticking.  Let  the  ham  partly 
cool  in  the  water;  then  remove  and  draw  off  the  skin.  Sprinkle 
the  top  plentifully  with  cracker  crumbs  and  brown  sugar,  or 
brush  it  with  egg.  Press  into  it  a  number  of  whole  cloves,  and 
set  it  in  the  oven  a  few  minutes  to  brown.  Or  the  ham  may  be 
left  white,  and  dotted  with  pepper,  a  clove  stuck  in  the  center 
of  each  spot  of  pepper.  Soup  vegetables  and  a  bouquet  of 
herbs  boiled  with  a  ham  improve  its  flavor.  A  ham  boiled  in 
cider  is  especially  good.  Trim  the  meat  around  the  bone,  and 
conceal  the  bone  with  a  paper  frill  or  vegetable  cut  into  shape 
of  rose.  Ornament  the  ham  with  dressed  skewers,  or  with 
parsley  and  lemon. 

BAKED  HAM 

Soak  and  prepare  the  ham  as  directed  above.  Let  it  simmer 
for  two  hours;  then  remove  it  and  take  off  the  skin,  and  bake 
it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  two  hours;  baste  it  frequently,  using 
a  cupful  of  sherry,  two  spoonfuls  at  a  time,  until  all  is  used; 
then  baste  with  drippings  from  the  pan.  When  done,  cover  it 
with  a  paste  made  of  browned  flour  and  brown  sugar  moistened 
with  sherry,  and  replace  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to 
brown. 

12        ,  -  " 


178  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

BROILED  HAM  AND  EGOS 

Cut  the  ham  very  thin.  If  very  salt,  place  it  in  boiling  water 
for  a  few  minutes.  Then  dry  and  broil  it  over  hot  coals  for 
three  or  four  minutes. 

Put  a  few  pieces  of  salt  pork  into  a  frying  pan.  When  tried 
out,  add  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  from  a  saucer.  Baste  the  top 
of  the  eggs  with  fat  from  the  pan.  Let  them  brown  a  little  on 
the  edges,  but  not  blacken,  and  serve  them  around  the  slices  of 
ham. 

Boiled  ham  may  be  broiled.  If  so,  cut  it  into  thin,  small 
pieces,  and  after  broiling  it,  place  on  each  piece  a  fried  egg. 

HAH  AND  EGGS  A  L'AUROBE 

Chop  fine  some  cold  boiled  ham.  Boil  six  or  eight  eggs  very 
hard  (see  page  262).  "With  a  sharp  knife  cut  them  in  quarters 
lengthwise.  Remove  the  yolks,  and  press  them  through  a 
coarse  sieve  or  strainer;  lay  the  white  segments  in  warm  water. 
Make  a  white  sauce,  using  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter;  when 
melted,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  let  cook  for  a  few 
minutes;  then  add  slowly  two  cupfuls  of  milk.  Stir  constantly, 
and  when  a  smooth,  consistent  sauce,  season  with  salt  and 
white  pepper. 

Moisten  the  chopped  ham  with  a  little  of  the  sauce,  and  place 
it  on  the  fire  just  long  enough  to  become  well  heated.  Stir  con- 
stantly so  the  sauce  will  not  brown.  Make  a  smooth,  rounded 
mold  of  the  ham  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish.  Pour  over  it  the 
white  sauce.  Sprinkle  thickly  over  the  top  the  yolk  crumbs; 
then  range  evenly  around  it  the  white  segments  of  the  eggs. 

BACON 

Cut  bacon  very  thin,  as  shown  on  page  78.  Lay  the  slices  on 
a  hot  frying-pan.  When  clear  turn  them  over.  Tip  the  pan  a 
little,  so  the  fat  will  run  to  one  side.  If  not  wanted  crisp  and 
dry,  turn  the  slices  before  they  look  clear,  and  remove  before 
all  the  fat  is  tried  out. 


Chaptee  Y 
POULTEY  AND  GAME 

CHICKENS 

To  judge  the  age  of  a  chicken,  touch  the  end  of  the 
breastbone.  If  it  is  still  cartilaginous,  and  bends 
easily  from  side  to  side,  the  meat  of  the  chicken  will 
be  tender.  If  the  cartilage  has  hardened  to  bone,  the 
bird  is  over  a  year  old,  and  should  be  used  only  for 
the  purposes  which  fowls  serve.  The  skin  of  the 
chicken  should  be  firm,  smooth  and  white ;  the  feet 
soft,  the  legs  smooth  and  yellow,  the  spurs  small,  the 
eyes  bright  and  full,  the  comb  red.  On  young  chick- 
ens there  are  pin-feathers ;  on  fowls,  there  are  long 
hairs.  The  dry-picked  chickens  are  preferable  to 
those  which  are  scalded.  It  is  not  easy  to  find  all 
the  conditions  right  in  our  markets,  which  are  mostly 
supplied  with  frozen  poultry,  and  one  is  obliged  to  rely 
very  much  on  the  honesty  of  the  poulterer.  Chicken, 
to  be  perfectly  wholesome  and  good-flavored,  should 
be  drawn  as  soon  as  killed;  but  here  again  we  are 
subject  to  the  customs  of  our  markets,  and  are  obliged 
to  buy  poultry  which  has  not  only  been  killed,  but 
undrawn,  for  an  indefinite  time.  It  is  presumable, 
however,  that  poultry  sent  to  market  is  frozen  shortly 
after  being  killed,  and  it  does  not  deteriorate  while 
frozen.  It  should  be  drawn  at  once  after  it  comes  to 
the  kitchen,  without  waiting  for  the  time  to  prepare  it 
for  cooking. 

179 


180  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

TO  CLEAN  AND  DRAW  POULTRY 

First,  remove  any  pin-feathers ;  then  singe  off  the 
hairs.  This  is  done  best  over  an  alcohol  flame.  Pnt 
one  or  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  alcohol  into  a  plate  or  sau- 
cer and  ignite  it.  (Wood  alcohol  is  inexpensive,  and 
besides  serving  this  purpose  very  well  may  be  used 
also  in  the  chafing-dish  and  tea-kettle  lamps.)  If  alco- 
hol is  not  at  hand,  use  lighted  paper,  but  take  care  not 
to  smoke  the  chicken.  Hold  the  fowl  by  the  head  and 
feet,  and  turn  it  constantly,  exposing  every  part  to  the 
flame.  After  singeing,  wash  the  outside  of  the  chicken 

Washing,  thoroughly  with  a  cloth  and  bowl  of  water.  The  skin 
will  become  several  degrees  whiter  when  freed  from 
dust  and  the  marks  of  much  handling.  Do  not  place 
the  chicken  in  the  bowl  of  water,  or  at  any  time  al- 
low the  meat  to  soak,  as  that  wiU  extract  its  flavor. 
After  the  chicken  is  drawn,  it  should  only  be  wiped 
out  with  a  wet  cloth.  If  it  is  properly  drawn  there 
will  be  nothing  unclean  to  wash  away  from  the  in- 
side. After  the  skin  of  the  chicken  is  cleaned,  cut 
off  the  head,  cut  the  skin  down  the  back  of  the 
neck,  turn  it  over  while  you  remove  carefully  the 
crop  and  windpipe,  and  cut  off  the  neck  close  to  the 
body,  leaving  the  skin  to  fold  over  the  opening.  Next 

Drawing  take  the  leg,  bend  it  back  slightly,  and  carefully  cut 
Sinews.  *^®  ®^^  ®^  *^®  joint,  just  enough  to  expose  the  sinews 
without  cutting  them ;  run  a  skewer  or  fork  under 
them,  one  at  a  time,  and  draw  them  out ;  five  or  eight 
of  them  can  be  easily  removed  after  a  little  practice. 
The  one  on  the  back  of  the  leg  is  particularly  large 
and  strong.  These  sinews  are  very  tough  and  almost 
bony  after  cooking,  especially  in  turkeys,  but  if  they 
are  removed  the  meat  of  the  drumstick  is  quite  as 
good  as  that  of  the  second  joint.  After  the  sinews 
are  drawn,  break  the  leg  off  at  the  joint,  the  sinews 
hanging  to  it.    Cut  a  small  opening  under  the  rumpj 


POULTRY  AND  GAME  181 

run  a  finger  around  close  to  the  body  to  loosen  the 
entrails.  Do  the  same  at  the  neck  opening.  Carefully 
draw  them  out,  in  one  solid  mass,  without  any  part 
being  broken ;  cut  around  the  vent  to  free  the  large 
intestine.  If  by  any  mischance  the  gall  or  intestines 
should  be  broken,  the  inside  of  the  chicken  must  be 
washed  at  once;  otherwise  only  wipe  it  out  with  a 
wet  cloth,  as  directed  above.  Cut  the  oil  sack  away 
from  the  rump.  Cut  the  gall  carefully  off  the  liver ; 
cut  the  outer  coat  of  the  gizzard  and  draw  it  care- 
fully away  from  the  inner  sack,  leaving  the  sack  un- 
broken. Open  the  heart  and  wash  away  the  clot  of 
blood.  The  heart,  liver,  and  gizzard  are  the  gib- 
lets. All  poultry  and  birds  are  dressed  in  the  same 
way. 

TO  BONE  A  FOWL 

Wash  and  singe  the  fowl;  take  off  the  head  and 
legs,  and  remove  the  tendons  as  directed  for  drawing. 
When  a  fowl  is  to  be  boned  it  is  not  drawn.  The 
work  of  boning  is  not  difficult,  but  requires  care  and 
a  little  practice.  The  skin  must  not  be  broken.  Use 
a  small  pointed  knife;  cut  the  skin  down  the  full 
length  of  the  back ;  then,  beginning  at  the  neck,  care- 
fully scrape  the  meat  away  from  the  bone,  keeping 
the  knife  close  to  the  bone.  When  the  joints  of  the 
wings  and  legs  are  met,  break  them  back  and  proceed 
to  free  the  meat  from  the  carcass.  When  one  side  is 
free,  turn  the  fowl  and  do  the  same  on  the  other  side. 
The  skin  is  drawn  tightly  over  the  breast-bone,  and 
care  must  be  used  to  detach  it  without  piercing  the 
skin.  When  the  meat  is  free  from  the  carcass,  re- 
move the  bones  from  the  legs  and  wings,  turning  the 
meat  down  or  inside  out,  as  the  bones  are  exposed, 
and  using  care  not  to  break  the  skin  at  the  joints. 
The  end  bones  of  the  wings  cannot  be  removed,  and 
the  whole  end  joint  may  be  cut  off  or  left  as  it  is. 


183  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


BOASTED  BONED  CHIGKEH 


Spread  the  boned  chicken  on  a  board,  the  skin  side  down*, 
turn  the  flesh  of  the  legs  and  wings  right  side  out,  and  stuff 
them  with  forcemeat  into  shape.  Equalize  the  meat  as  well  as 
possible,  placing  the  mignon  fillets,  or  little  strips  of  white 
meat  next  the  bone,  over  the  dark  meat,  etc. ;  dredge  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Make  a  roll  of  the  stuffing  or  forcemeat,  and  lay  it 
in  the  chicken.  Draw  the  skin  up,  and  sew  it  together  securely. 
Turn  it  over,  place  the  legs  and  wings  into  the  position  of  a 
trussed  fowl,  press  the  body  into  natural  shape,  and  tie  it 
securely;  or  it  may  be  pressed  into  the  form  of  a  duck  or  rab- 
bit. Cover  with  slices  of  salt  pork,  and  roast  in  oven,  allowing 
twenty  minutes  to  the  pound;  baste  frequently.  Remove  the 
pork  the  last  fifteen  minutes,  dredge  with  flour,  and  let  it 
brown.    Serve  with  a  giblet  or  tomato  sauce. 

BRAISED  BONED  CHICKEN 

To  braise  the  chicken  prepared  as  above,  roU  it  lightly  in  a 
piece  of  cheese  cloth,  tying  the  ends  weU.  Put  in  a  saucepan  the 
bones  of  the  chicken,  a  slice  of  carrot  and  onion,  a  bouquet 
containing  parsley,  one  bay-leaf,  three  cloves,  twelve  pepper- 
corns, celery  if  convenient,  and  a  knuckle  of  veal.  Add  enough 
water  to  cover  the  bed  of  vegetables  and  bones;  lay  in  the 
chicken ;  cover  the  pot,  and  let  it  simmer  for  four  hours. 

JELLIED  BONED  CHICKEN 

A  braised  boned  chicken  may  be  served  hot,  or  it  may  be  set 
aside  to  cool,  then  jellied  as  follows:  Strain  the  water  in  which 
the  chicken  was  braised,  and  let  it  cool;  then  remove  the  grease 
and  clarify  the  liquor;  season  it  highly.  If  veal  has  been  used, 
and  the  liquor  jellies,  it  may  be  used  as  it  is.  If  veal  has  not 
been  used,  add  gelatine  soaked  in  cold  water,  observing  the  pro. 
portion  of  one  box  of  gelatine  to  one  and  a  half  quarts  of  liquor. 


POULTRY  AND  GAME  183 

Mask  a  mold  with  jelly  (see  page  323) ;  when  the  jelly  is  set,  put 
in  the  chicken,  and  add  enough  liquid  jelly  to  entirely  cover  it. 
Or,  on  the  bottom  of  the  mold  make  a  decoration  of  either  truffles, 
ham,  capers,  gherkins,  or  any  combinations  suitable;  fix  it  with 
a  thin  layer  of  jelly;  when  hardened,  add  enough  more  to  make 
a  layer  of  jelly  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  when  that  is 
hardened  lay  in  the  chicken,  and  surround  it  with  the  liquid 
jelly  (see  molding  jellies,  page  324).  Garnish  the  dish  on  which 
the  jellied  chicken  is  served  with  lettuce,  and  serve  with  it  a 
Mayonnaise,  Bearnaise,  or  Tartare  sauce. 

When  the  chicken  is  to  be  jeUied,  use  enough  water  in  the 
braising  pot  to  give  three  pints  of  liquor  after  the  cooking  is 
done. 

FORCEMEAT,  EOR  STUFFING  BONED  FOWLS 

Use  the  meat  of  another  fowl,  or  veal,  or  pork,  or  a  mixture. 
Chop  them  fine,  and  add  to  the  minced  meat  one  cupful  of 
bread  or  cracker  crumbs  and,  if  convenient,  a  little  chopped 
boiled  ham  or  tongue,  and  a  few  lardoons  of  pork.  Season 
with  the  following  articles,  and  moisten  the  whole  with  stock: 

1  tablespoonf  ul  of  chopped  parsley.    J  teaspoonf  ul  of  pepper. 
1  teaspoonf  ul  of  onion  juice.  1  teaspoonf  ul  thyme. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

* 

If  veal  is  used,  take  it  from  the  knuckle,  and  use  the  bone  in  the 
braising  pot,  as  it  will  give  a  good  jelly. 

TO  TRUSS  A  FOWL 

"When  the  fowl  is  wiped,  singed,  and  drawn  as  by  directions 
given  above,  put  in  the  stuffing  if  it  is  to  be  used;  place  a  little 
in  the  opening  at  the  neck,  the  rest  in  the  body,  and  sew  up  the 
opening.  Draw  the  skin  of  the  neck  smoothly  down  and  under 
the  back,  press  the  wings  close  against  the  body,  and  fold  the 
pinions  under,  crossing  the  back  and  holding  down  the  skin  of 
the  neck.    Press  the  legs  close  to  the  body,  and  slip  them  under 


184  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

the  skin  as  much  as  possible.  Thread  the  trussing  needle  with 
white  twine,  using  it  double.  Press  the  needle  through  the 
wing  by  the  middle  joint,  pass  it  through  the  skin  of  the  neck 
and  back,  and  out  again  at  the  middle  joint  of  the  other  wing. 
Return  the  needle  through  the  bend  of  the  leg  at  the  second 
joint,  through  the  body  and  out  at  the  same  point  on  the  other 
side;  draw  the  cord  tight,  and  tie  it  with  the  end  at  the  wing 
joint.  Thread  the  needle  again,  and  run  it  through  the  legs 
and  body  at  the  thigh  bone,  and  back  at  the  ends  of  the  drum- 
sticks. Draw  the  drumstick  bones  close  together,  covering  the 
opening  made  for  drawing  the  fowl,  and  tie  the  ends.  Have 
both  knots  on  the  same  side  of  the  fowl.  "When  cooked,  cut  the 
cord  on  the  opposite  side,  and  by  the  knots  it  can  easily  be 
drawn  out.    (See  illustration.) 

BOASTED  CmCKEF 

A  roasted  chicken  may  be  stuffed  or  not.  If  stuffing  is  used 
it  should  only  half  fiU  the  chicken.  Truss  it  as  directed  above, 
or  use  skewers,  doubling  a  cord  across  the  back  and  around  the 
ends  of  the  skewers  to  hold  them  in  place.  A  roasted  or  boiled 
chicken  is  not  presentable,  which  has  not  been  securely  fast- 
ened into  good  shape  before  being  cooked.  Dredge  the  chicken 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  it  on  slices  of  salt  pork  in  a 
baking  pan;  add  a  very  Httle  water,  and  bake  in  hot  oven, 
allowing  fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound;  baste  frequently. 
White  meat  must  be  well  cooked,  but  not  dried.  Fifteen  min- 
utes before  it  is  done,  rub  it  over  the  top  and  sides  with  butter, 
dredge  it  with  flour,  and  replace  it  in  the  oven  until  it  becomes 
a  golden  brown  and  looks  crisp.  Draw  out  the  trussing  cords, 
and  garnish  with  parsley.  Serve  with  it  a  giblet  sauce.  Do 
not  use  a  tough  chicken  for  roasting;  one  a  year  old  is  about 
right.    A  roasting  chicken  may  be  larded  if  desired. 

STUFFING  FOE  FOWLS 

Moisten  a  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
melted  butter;  season  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  thyme,  chopped 


TRUSSED  CHICKEN.      (SEE  PAGE  183.) 


r. Ai  K   Ml     I 


POULTRY  AND  GAME  185 

parsley,  and  onion  juice;  or  put  in  a  saucepan  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter  and  fry  in  it  one  minced  onion;  then  add  one  cupful  of 
soaked  bread,  the  water  being  pressed  out,  one  half  cupful  of 
stock,  one  teaspoonf ul  of  salt,  one  half  teaspoonful  each  of  pep- 
per and  thyme,  and  one  half  cupful  of  celery  cut  into  small  pieces. 
Stir  it  until  it  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan. 

CHESTNUT  STUFFING 

Shell  a  quart  of  large  French  chestnuts.  Put  them  in  hot 
water  and  boil  until  the  skins  are  softened ;  then  drain  off  the 
water  and  remove  the  skins.  Replace  the  blanched  chestnuts 
in  water,  and  boil  until  soft.  Take  out  a  few  at  a  time,  and 
press  them  through  a  colander  or  a  potato  press.  They  mash 
more  easily  when  hot.  Season  the  mashed  chestnuts  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Some  cooks  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  moisten  it  with  a  little  stock.  Some  add, 
also,  a  few  bread  crumbs.  The  dressing  is  best  seasoned  only 
with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper 

GIBLET  SAUCE 

Boil  the  giblets  until  tender ;  chop  them,  but  not  very  fine  ; 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  the  pan  in  which  the  chicken 
was  roasted ;  let  it  brown,  stirring  constantly ;  add  slowly  a 
cupful  of  water  in  which  the  giblets  were  boiled ;  season  with 
salt  and  pepper ;  strain  and  add  the  chopped  giblets ;  serve  in 
a  sauceboat.  The  liver  is  a  tidbit,  and  should  be  roasted  and 
served  with  the  chicken,  instead  of  being  used  in  the  sauce. 

BOILED  CHICKEN 

A  chicken  too  old  to  roast  is  very  good  when  boiled.  Truss 
the  chicken  firmly.  It  is  well  also  to  tie  it  in  a  piece  of  cheese- 
cloth, to  keep  it  in  good  shape.  It  may  be  stuffed  or  not. 
Boiled  rice  seasoned  with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt,  or  celery  cut 
in  small  pieces,  is  better  to  use  for  boiled  chicken  than  bread 
stuffing. 


186  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Put  the  chicken  into  boiling  salted  water  and  simmer,  allow- 
ing twenty  minutes  to  the  pound ;  when  done,  remove  the  cloth 
and  cords  carefully,  spread  a  little  white  sauce  over  the  breast, 
and  sprinkle  it  with  chopped  parsley.  G-arnish  with  parsley, 
and  serve  with  it  egg,  oyster,  or  B6arnaise  sauce. 

BBAISED   CHICKEN 

A  fowl  too  old  to  roast  may  be  made  tender  and  good  by 
braising,  and  present  the  same  appearance  as  a  roasted  chicken. 

Prepare  it  as  for  roasting,  trussing  it  into  good  shape.  Cut 
into  dice  a  carrot,  turnip,  onion,  and  stalk  of  celery;  put  them  in 
a  pot  with  a  few  slices  of  salt  pork,  and  on  them  place  the  fowl, 
with  a  few  pieces  of  salt  pork  laid  over  the  breast;  add  a  bouquet 
of  parsley,  one  bay-leaf,  three  cloves,  six  peppercorns,  also  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  pint  of  hot  water.  Cover  the  pot  closely 
and  let  simmer  for  three  hours.  If  any  steam  escapes,  a  little 
more  water  may  have  to  be  added.  When  done,  rub  a  little 
butter  over  the  breast,  dredge  with  flour,  and  place  in  the  oven 
a  few  minutes  to  brown.  Strain  the  liquor  from  the  braising 
pot,  season  to  taste,  and  if  necessary  thicken  with  a  little  brown 
roux ;  serve  it  with  the  chicken  as  sauce. 

BBOHED  CHICKEN 

Young  spring  chickens  only  are  used  for  broiling.  Split 
them  down  the  back,  remove  the  entrails  and  the  breast  bone, 
wipe  them  clean,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  rub  them 
with  soft  butter.  Place  them  on  a  broiler  over  a  slow  fire,  the 
inside  down;  cover  with  a  pan,  and  let  cook  for  twenty  to 
twenty-five  minutes.  Turn,  to  let  the  skin  side  brown  when 
nearly  done.  Place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  spread  them  with 
maitre  d'hotel  butter ;  garnish  with  parsley  or  watercress  and 
thin  slices  of  lemon. 

FBICASSEE 

Cut  a  chicken  into  eleven  pieces:  two  drumsticks,  two  second 
joints,  two  wings,  two  breasts,  three  back  pieces. 


POTJLTEY  AND  GAME  187 

Put  the  pieces  in  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonf uls  of  but- 
ter or  drippings ;  let  them  brown  slightly  on  both  sides,  but 
use  care  that  they  do  not  burn ;  when  a  little  colored,  add 
enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them  j  add  a  bouquet  of  herbs, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  a  few  slices  of  salt  pork.  Simmer  until 
tender.  Arrange  the  pieces  neatly  on  a  dish,  using  the  best 
ones  outside,  and  pour  over  them  a  gravy  made  as  follows: 
Strain  the  liquor  from  the  pot  and  take  off  the  fat.  Make  a 
white  roux  of  one  tablespoonf ul  of  butter  and  two  of  flour; 
add  to  it  slowly  a  cupful  of  the  liquor  from  the  pot ;  season  to 
taste ;  remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  a  little  cool  add  a  cupful 
of  cream  or  milk  beaten  up  with  two  or  three  yolks  of  eggs. 
Place  again  on  the  fire  until  the  eggs  are  a  little  thickened,  but 
do  not  let  it  boil,  or  they  will  curdle.  A  tablespoonful  of  sherry 
may  be  added,  if  liked,  or  a  half  can  of  mushrooms.  A  border 
of  rice  may  be  placed  around  the  chicken,  or  softened  toast 
used  under  the  chicken. 

To  make  a  brown  fricassee,  sprinkle  the  pieces  of  chicken,  af- 
ter they  are  simmered  until  tender,  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour, 
and  place  them  in  the  oven  to  brown.  Make  a  brown  instead 
of  a  white  roux,  and  omit  the  cream  or  milk. 

FBIED  CHICKEN 

Cut  a  tender  chicken  in  pieces;  dip  the  pieces  in  water; 
sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  roll  them  in  flour ; 
saute  them  in  a  tablespoonful  of  lard  or  butter,  browning  both 
sides ;  then  remove  and  add  to  the  pan  a  tablespoonful  of  flour; 
cook  it  for  a  minute  without  browning,  stirring  all  the  time, 
and  add  a  cupful  of  milk  or  cream ;  stir  until  it  is  a  little  thick- 
ened ;  strain ;  mix  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
Place  the  sauce  on  the  serving-dish  and  arrange  the  pieces  of 
chicken  on  it. 

CHICKEN  FRITTEBS 

Cut  cold  cooked  chicken  or  turkey  off  the  bones  in  as  large 
pieces  as  possible ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper ;  dip  them  ill 


188  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

fritter  batter  (see  page  426),  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  a  golden 
brown.  Place  the  pieces  when  fried  on  a  brown  paper  untU  all 
are  done;  dress  them  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve  with  a 
Bearnaise,  Mayonnaise,  or  Tartare  sauce. 

The  pieces  may  be  rolled  in  egg  and  bread  crumbs  instead  of 
being  dipped  in  batter,  if  preferred. 

STUFFED  GHIGKEH  OB  TTJBEET  LEGS 

Carefully  remove  the  tendons  from  the  drumsticks  as  di- 
rected in  drawing  (page  180) ;  remove  the  bone,  all  but  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  at  the  small  end,  and  remove  any  remaining 
sinews.  Stuff  the  leg  with  a  forcemeat  made  of  chicken  or 
veal  chopped  very  fine,  and  use  with  it  the  liver  and  a  little 
strip  of  larding  pork ;  season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped 
parsley,  and  moisten  it  with  one  egg.  Draw  the  skin  over  the  end 
and  sew  it  closely  together,  keeping  the  shape  as  natural  as  possi- 
ble. Lay  the  stuffed  legs  in  a  baking-pan ;  cover  with  boiling 
water,  and  simmer  an  hour,  or  until  tender;  remove  them 
from  the  water,  press  them  into  shape,  and  let  cool.  When 
cold,  take  out  the  stitches,  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in 
beaten  egg  and  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  browned; 
or  broil  them  on  both  sides  four  minutes,  if  chicken ;  six  min- 
utes, if  turkey  legs ;  or  they  may  be  sauted  in  butter.  They 
may  be  deviled  by  rubbing  them  with  mustard  and  a  little  red 
pepper  before  coating  with  the  eggs  and  crumbs.  Serve  them 
arranged  like  chops,  the  bones  masked  with  paper  frills. 

If  preferred,  the  bones  may  be  entirely  removed,  and  the  leg 
flattened  to  look  like  a  cutlet.  This  can  be  done  by  placing 
them  under  a  weight  to  cool  after  being  boiled.  Serve  with  an 
olive,  Bearnaise,  Tartare,  or  any  sauce  preferred. 

OBUIED  BONES 

Take  the  wings,  second  joints,  and  drumsticks  of  cold  cooked 
chicken;  dip  them  in  melted  butter,  sprinkle  them  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  broil  them  untU  they  are  very  hot  and  well 
browned. 


.POULTEY  AND  GAME  189 

CmCEEN  A  LA  VIENirE 

Split  a  small  spring  chicken  down  the  back,  as  for  broiling; 
remove  the  breast  bone;  then  cut  it  into  four  pieces,  giving  two 
breast  and  two  leg  pieces,  cut  oJff  the  pinions ;  marinate  the  pieces 
in  oil,  vinegar,  pepper,  and  salt;  then  roll  in  flour,  and  fry  in  hot 
fat,  one  piece  at  a  time;  drain  and  place  on  paper  in  the  open 
oven  until  all  are  done.  They  should  be  a  light  golden  color. 
Place  a  paper  frill  on  the  leg  and  wing  bones,  and  dress  them 
on  a  folded  napkin.  Serve  with  Tartare  sauce;  or  arrange  the 
pieces  overlapping  on  a  dish,  and  garnish  with  four  lettuce 
leaves  holding  Tartare  sauce. 

CHICKEN,  BALTIMORE  STYLE 

Split  a  small  spring  chicken  down  the  back  as  for  broiling; 
remove  the  breast-bone  and  cut  off  the  pinions.  Cut  into  four 
pieces;  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper;  dip  them  in  egg  and  fresh 
crumbs.  Place  them  in  a  pan,  and  pour  over  each  piece  enough 
melted  butter  to  moisten  it ;  then  roast  in  the  oven  eighteen  to 
twenty  minutes.  Make  a  cream  sauce,  taking  one  cupful  of 
Bechamel  sauce,  and  adding  to  it  a  half  cupful  of  cream  and  a 
half  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Pour  this  sauce  on  a  dish,  and 
place  the  pieces  of  chicken  on  it.  Garnish  with  slices  of  fried 
bacon. 

CHICEiEN  IMPERIAL 

Cut  the  breast  from  a  chicken,  retaining  it  in  shape  on  the 
bone.  Remove  the  skin,  and  lard  the  breast  on  each  side  with 
four  lardoons.  Place  it  in  a  deep  saucepan ;  cgyer  with  stock 
or  boiling  water,  and  simmer  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes,  or 
until  tender.  Then  remove  from  the  water,  and  place  in  oven 
for  ten  minutes  to  take  a  very  light  color.  Make  a  sauce  as 
follows : 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  half  cupful  of  the  stock  in  which  the 
breast  was  boiled,  and  one  half  cupful  of  cream.  Let  it  come  to 
the  scalding  point ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley.    Remove  from  fire,  and  stir  in 


190  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

slowly  two  yolks  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  beaten  to- 
gether. Stir  constantly  until  thickened,  but  do  not  let  boil,  or 
the  egg  will  curdle.  Strain  and  pour  it  around  the  breast.  The 
breast  should  be  carved  diagonally,  giving  three  pieces  on  each 
side. 

CHICKElSr  BREASTS  WITH  POXTLETTE  SAUCE 

Remove  the  breasts  from  several  chickens ;  cut  them  length- 
wise, each  breast  giving  four  pieces.  Simmer  them  in  salted 
water  until  tender.  Make  a  Poulette  sauce  (see  page  280),  and 
pour  over  the  breasts  piled  on  a  dish.  Sprinkle  with  parsley 
chopped  very  fine.    Use  a  generous  amount  of  sauce. 

CHICKEN  CHARTREUSE 

Mix  one  cupful  of  cooked  chicken  minced  very  fine  with 
1  teaspoonful  of  chopped     J  teaspoonf ul  of  salt, 

parsley,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato 

^  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice, 

juice,  1  beaten  egg, 

Dash  of  pepper. 

Grease  well  a  charlotte  russe  or  pudding  mold;  line  it  one 
inch  thick  with  boiled  rice.  Fill  the  center  with  the  chicken 
mixture,  and  cover  the  top  with  rice,  so  the  chicken  is  entirely 
encased,  and  the  mold  is  full  and  even.  Cover  and  cook  in 
steamer  for  forty-five  minutes.  Serve  with  it  a  tomato  sauce; 
pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  on  the  dish  around  the  form,  not 
over  it. 

CHICKEN  SOUFFLE 

1  tablespoonf ul  of  butter.  1  cupful  of  minced 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour.  chicken. 

1  tablespoonful  of  chopped  J  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

parsley.  3  eggs. 

1  cupful  of  milk.  10  drops  of  onion  juice. 

Dash  of  pepper. 

Make  a  white  sauce  by  putting  the  butter  in  a  saucepan  or 
double  boiler.    When  melted  add_fclie  flour,  and  cook  a  moment 


POULTRY  AND  GAME  191 

withont  browning.  Then  add  slowly  the  milk,  and  stir  till 
smooth.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  parsley,  and  onion  juice. 
There  should  be  one  cupful  of  the  sauce.  Remove  from  the  fire, 
and  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs;  then  add  a  cupful  of 
chicken  chopped  fi.ne.  Stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  a  minute 
until  the  egg  has  a  little  thickened;  then  set  aside  to  cool. 
Rub  a  little  butter  over  the  top,  so  it  wUl  not  form  a  crust. 
When  time  to  serve  beat  very  stiff  the  whites  of  the  three  eggs, 
and  stir  them  lightly  into  the  cold  chicken  mixture.  Put  it 
into  a  pudding  dish,  and  bake  in  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 
Serve  at  once  in  the  same  dish.  This  is  a  souffle,  so  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  must  not  be  added  until  it  is  time  for  it  to 
go  into  the  oven,  and  it  will  fall  if  not  served  immediately  after 
it  comes  from  the  oven.  This  dish  may  be  made  with  any  kind 
of  meat.  Chicken  sou£9.6  may  be  baked  in  paper  boxes,  and 
served  as  an  entree. 

CHICKEN  LOAF 

Boil  a  fowl  until  the  meat  falls  from  the  bones.  Strain,  and 
put  the  liquor  again  in  the  saucepan;  reduce  it  to  one  and  a 
half  pints,  and  add  one  quarter  box  of  soaked  gelatine.  Lay  a 
few  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg  on  the  bottom  of  a  plain  mold; 
fill  the  mold  with  alternate  layers  of  white  and  dark  meat  of 
the  chicken.  Season  the  liquor,  and  pour  it  over  the  meat  in 
the  mold,  and  set  it  away  to  harden;  it  wiU  become  a  jelly.  It 
is  a  good  dish  to  use  with  salad  for  luncheon  or  supper. 

CHICKEN  CHAUDFROn) 

Cut  cold  cooked  chicken  into  as  neat  and  uniform  pieces  as 
possible;  remove  the  skin ;  make  a  chaudfroid  sauce  as  directed 
on  page  281.  Mix  the  sauce  thoroughly,  and  let  it  cool  enough 
to  thicken,  but  not  harden.  Roll  each  piece  of  chicken  in  this 
sauce  until  well  coated.  Range  the  pieces  without  touching  in 
a  pan,  the  ends  resting  on  the  raised  edge;  place  the  pan  on  ice 
until  the  sauce  is  set.  Make  a  socle  (see  page  326)  of  bread  or 
rice;  rub  it  with  butter,  and  mask  it  with  chopped  parsley. 
Arrange  the  pieces  of  chicken  around  the  socle,  resting  them 


192  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

against  it;  then  with  a  brush  coat  them  over  lightly  with  clear 
chicken  aspic  which  is  cold,  but  still  liquid.  Ornament  the  top 
of  socle  with  a  star  of  aspic,  or  with  a  bunch  of  nasturtium, 
or  other  blossoms  or  leaves.  Garnish  the  dish  with  aspic,  with 
flowers,  or  leaves  j  or,  if  socle  is  not  used,  pile  the  pieces  in  pyram- 
idal form  and  garnish.  Serve  with  it  a  Mayonnaise,  B^arnaise, 
or  Tartare  sauce ;  or  some  of  the  chaudf roid  sauce  diluted. 

CmCEEN  MAYONHAISE 

Cut  cold  cooked  chicken  into  pieces;  remove  the  skin,  and 
trim  the  pieces  into  good  shape.  Cover  each  piece  with  jelly 
Mayonnaise  (page  290),  and  leave  them  in  a  cool  place  until  the 
Mayonnaise  has  set.  Trim  them  and  dress  them  around  an 
ornamented  socle  or  a  mound  of  salad,  or  lay  each  piece  on  a 
leaf  of  lettuce.  Garnish  with  aspic  or  with  flowers.  Use  a 
green,  white,  or  yellow  Mayonnaise;  and  keep  in  cold  place 
until  ready  to  serve. 

EHOLISH  CmCEEN  PIE  (GOLD) 

Take  two  tender  chickens,  and  cut  them  up  as  for  frying. 
Put  them  into  a  large  saucepan  with  two  and  a  half  quarts 
of  water;  add  a  bouquet  made  of  sweet  marjoram,  basil, 
parsley,  three  bay-leaves,  sprig  of  thyme,  and  small  blade  of 
mace.  Let  them  simmer  until  weU  cooked.  Add  to  the  pot 
when  the  chicken  is  about  half  done  one  half  pound  of  bacon 
cut  into  smaU  pieces  like  lardoons.  Wash  the  bacon  before 
adding  it.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  before  removing  the  chicken 
add  the  half  of  a  small  can  of  truffles  cut  into  slices. 

Boil  eight  eggs  very  hard,  and  cut  them  in  slices.  Arrange 
on  the  bottom  of  an  earthen  dish  a  layer  of  egg  slices  and 
truffles,  then  a  layer  of  chicken  meat;  alternate  the  layers  until 
the  dish  is  two-thirds  full.  Return  the  bones  and  coarse  pieces 
of  meat  to  the  pot,  and  reduce  the  liquid  one  third.  Strain, 
cool,  and  remove  the  grease.  Return  the  stock  to  the  fire,  add 
a  quarter  box  or  one  half  ounce  of  soaked  gelatine.    Pour  this 


CHICKEN    IMPERIALE    AND    STUFFED    LEGS.      (SEE    PAGES    188    AND    189. 


CHARTREUSE   OF  CHICKI.N  GAKMSHKD   AVITH  SLICE  OF  HARD-BOILED    EGG  AND 
PARSLEY.      (SEE   PAGES  83  AND   190.) 


GALANTINE    OF    TURKEY    COVERED    WITH    CHAUDKUOII)    SAr(  I,    AM)    DECORATED 
WITH    TRUFFLES.      (SEE    PAGES    193,  281    AND    32G.) 


POULTRY  AND  GAME  193 

over  the  chicken.  When  it  has  jellied  and  is  ready  to  serve, 
place  on  the  top  a  crust  of  puff  paste,  which  has  been  cut  to  fit 
the  dish,  and  has  been  baked  separately. 


TURKEY 

The  rules  given  for  dressing  and  cooking  chickens 
apply  also  to  turkeys.  Turkey  can  be  substituted  for 
chicken  in  any  of  the  receipts  given.  A  young  tur- 
key will  have  smooth  black  legs  and  white  skin. 

Fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound  is  the  time  allowed  General 
for  roasting  or  boiling  a  young  turkey;  for  an  old  Directions. 
one  more  time  will  be  required.  They  should  have 
slow  cooking  and  frequent  basting.  After  a  turkey 
is  trussed,  wet  the  skin ;  dredge  it  well  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  then  with  a  thick  coating  of  flour.  This 
will  give  a  crisp  brown  crust. 


TUBEIET  GALANTINE  OB  BONED  TUBBEY 

Select  a  young  fat  hen  turkey.  Bone  it  as  directed,  page  181 5 
spread  the  boned  meat  on  the  table,  the  skin  side  down.  Equal- 
ize the  meat  as  well  as  possible  by  paring  it  off  at  the  thick 
parts,  and  laying  it  on  the  thin  parts.  Leave  the  legs  and 
wings  drawn  inside;  lay  a  few  lardoons  of  salt  pork  on  the 
meat  lengthwise.  Make  a  forcemeat  of  another  fowl  or  of  veal, 
or  of  both  chicken  and  veal.  Chop  it  to  a  very  fine  mince,  and 
pound  it  in  a  mortar  to  make  it  almost  a  paste.  Season  it  with 
salt  and  pepper,  savory,  marjoram,  thyme,  and  sage — about  a 
half  teaspoonful  each  of  the  herbs — one  teaspoonful  of  onion 
juice,  a  half  cupful  of  cold  boiled  tongue  cut  into  dice,  some 
truffles  cut  into  large  pieces.  Moisten  it  with  stock  and  mix 
thoroughly.  It  will  take  three  or  four  pounds  of  meat,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  turkey,  to  make  sufficient  stuffing.   Spread 

13 


104  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

the  forcemeat  on  the  boned  turkey,  having  the  tongue,  truffles, 
and  a  few  pieces  of  both  the  white  and  dark  meat  of  the  turkey 
well  interspersed  through  it.  Roll  up  the  turkey,  making  it  as 
even  as  possible,  and  sew  it  together ;  then  roll  it  in  a  piece  of 
cheesecloth  and  tie  it  securely  at  both  ends  and  around  the 
roll  in  several  places. 

Place  the  galantine  and  the  bones  of  the  fowl  in  a  kettle, 
with  an  onion,  carrot,  celery,  bouquet  of  herbs,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Cover  it  with  boiling  water,  and  let  simmer 
three  or  four  hours ;  then  remove  it  from  the  fire ;  let  the  galan- 
tine remain  in  the  water  for  an  hour ;  then  take  it  out,  cut  the 
strings  which  bind  it  in  the  middle,  draw  the  cloth  so  it  will 
be  tight  and  smooth,  and  place  it  under  a  weight  until  perfectly 
cold.  A  baking-pan  holding  two  flatirons  will  answer  the  pur- 
pose. Remove  the  cloth  carefully,  set  the  galantine  in  the 
oven  a  moment  to  melt  the  fat,  and  wipe  it  off  with  a  cloth  j 
trim  it  smooth ;  then  brush  it  over  with  glaze  (see  page  277),  or 
rub  it  over  with  beaten  egg  and  sprinkle  with  crumbs  and 
brown  in  the  oven ;  or,  cover  it  with  a  chaudfroid  sauce,  and 
ornament  it  as  shown  in  illustration.  The  ornament  of  cut  truf- 
fles is  applied  by  taking  each  piece  on  a  long  pin  and  placing  it 
on  the  chaudfroid  before  it  is  quite  set.  When  perfectly  set  it 
is  brushed  over  lightly  with  a  Kttle  liquid  jelly.  Galantine  of 
chicken  or  game  is  made  in  the  same  way,  except  that  in  small 
pieces  they  are  not  flattened  by  being  put  under  a  weight.* 

A  galantine  is  always  used  cold.  Garnish  with  aspic.  The 
water  in  which  it  was  boiled — strained  and  cleared — may  be 
used  for  the  aspic.  Use  a  box  of  gelatine  to  one  and  a  half 
quarts  of  liquor. 

BOAST  GK)OSE 

Green  geese  about  four  months  old  are  the  best,  as  they  get 
very  tough  when  much  older.    If  there  is  any  doubt  about  the 

*  A  rectangular-shaped  galantine  may  be  obtained  by  pressing  it  into  a  bread-tin 
to  cool.  It  should  then  be  trimmed  and  incased  in  aspic,  using  the  same  or  a 
Blightly  larger  bread-tin  of  the  same  shape.    See  Molding,  page  323.—  M.  R. 


POULTRY  AND  GAME  195 

age  of  the  goose,  it  is  better  to  braise  than  to  roast  it.  It  can 
be  browned  after  it  is  braised,  and  have  the  same  appearance  as 
if  roasted.  Dress  and  truss  a  goose  the  same  as  a  turkey ;  singe 
and  wash  the  skin  well ;  flatten  the  breast  bone  by  striking  it 
with  a  rolling-pin.  Stuff  it  only  partly  full  with  mashed  potato 
highly  seasoned  with  onion,  sage,  salt,  and  pepper,  or  with  a 
mixture  of  bread,  apples,  onions,  sage,  salt  and  pepper,  and  a 
little  butter.  Dredge  the  goose  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  thick 
coating  of  flour ;  put  a  little  water  in  the  pan  and  baste  fre- 
quently. Allow  eighteen  minutes  to  the  pound  for  a  young 
goose,  twentj'-five  minutes  for  an  older  one.  Serve  with  goose 
apple  sauce  and  a  brown  giblet  gravy. 

TAME  DUCES 

Prepare  the  same  as  geese.  Stuff  with  the  same  mixture  or  with 
celery.  Roast  ducklings  in  a  hot  oven  twenty  minutes,  if  liked 
rare;  thirty  minutes  if  they  are  to  be  cooked  through.  Old 
ducks  require  an  hour  to  cook,  and  should  be  basted  frequently. 
Pekin  ducks,  a  breed  of  white  ducks  raised  in  quantities  on 
Long  Island,  are  especially  esteemed. 


GAME 

GANVASBAGES  AND  REDHEAD  DUGES 

Carefully  pick,  singe,  and  wipe  the  outside.  Draw  them, 
leaving  on  the  head,  so  as  to  distinguish  them  from  ordinary 
game.  Cut  an  opening  at  the  neck,  and  through  it  draw 
the  head  and  neck,  letting  the  head  emerge  at  the  back 
between  the  drumsticks,  and  tie  it  securely  in  place.  Do  not 
wash  the  inside.  If  carefully  drawn  they  will  not  need  it. 
Cut  off  the  wings  at  the  second  joint.  Truss  the  ducks  neatly. 
Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  inside,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  cur- 
rant jelly  may  also  be  put  inside.  Place  them  in  a  baking-pan 
with  a  little  water,  and  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven  from  fifteen  to 
eighteen  minutes ;  baste  frequently. 

Wild  ducks  should  be  very  rare  and  served  very  hot,  on  hot 
plates.  Each  duck  makes  but  two  portions,  as  the  breast  only 
is  served.  Serve  with  duck  small  pieces  of  fried  hominy  and 
currant  jeUy. 

The  Canvasback  is  superior  in  flavor  to  any  other  species  of 
wild  duck,  and  is  much  esteemed.  They  have  a  purple  head 
and  silver  breast,  and  are  in  season  from  September  to  May. 
The  "  Redhead  "  closely  resembles  in  flavor  the  ''  Canvasback," 
and  often  is  mistaken  for  it. 

SAim  OF  DUGE  OB  GAME 

Cut  the  game  into  neat  pieces ;  put  them  in  the  oven  for  five 
minutes  to  start  the  juices.  Putin  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful 
of  .butter,  one  half  pound  of  bacon  or  salt  pork  cut  into  dice,  one 
tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  onion  and  carrot,  twelve  pepper- 
corns, one  saltspoonful  each  of  salt,  thyme,  and  sage,  and  any 
coarse  pieces  of  the  game.  Cover  with  a  greased  paper  and  let 
cook  to  a  glaze ;  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  let  it 
brown ;  then  two  cupf uls  of  stock ;  simmer  for  thirty  minutes ; 
strain;  add  one  quarter  cupful  of  Madeira  and  the  pieces  of 
game ;  cover  and  let  simmer  another  thirty  minutes. 

196 


GAME  197 

This  dish  needs  long,  slow  cooking  and  careful  watching. 
Garnish  with  croMons  and  truf9.es. 

The  truffles  should  be  added  to  the  salmi  a  few  minutes  be- 
fore it  is  removed  from  the  fire.  If  cooked  game  is  used  for 
the  salmi,  simmer  for  ten  minutes  only  after  the  pieces  are  added 
to  the  sauce. 

POTTED  PIGEONS  (Dark  Heat) 

a 

Unless  pigeons  are  young  they  should  be  braised  or  stewed 
in  broth.  Truss  them  carefully;  place  slices  of  bacon  on  the 
bottom  of  a  stew-pan;  lay  in  the  pigeons  side  by  side,  their 
breasts  up;  add  a  carrot  and  onion  cut  into  dice,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar,  and  some  parsley,  and  pour  over  enough  stock 
or  boiling  water  to  cover  them.  Cover  the  pot  closely.  Let 
them  simmer  until  they  are  tender,  adding  boiling  water  or 
stock  when  necessary.  Serve  each  pigeon  on  a  thin  piece  of 
moistened  buttered  toast. 

ROAST  PIGEONS  OE  SQUABS 

Do  not  roast  pigeons  unless  they  are  young  and  tender.  After 
they  are  well  trussed,  or  tied  into  shape,  tie  thin  slices  of  bacon 
over  the  breasts,  and  put  a  little  piece  of  butter  inside  each 
pigeon.  Roast  them  about  fifteen  minutes;  baste  them  with 
butter. 

Or  split  the  pigeons  in  two  through  the  back  and  breast,  cover 
with  thin  slices  of  salt  pork,  and  roast  them  in  the  oven. 
Thicken  the  gravy  in  the  pan  with  a  little  cornstarch.  Season 
and  moisten  with  it  slices  of  toast  on  which  the  half  pigeons 
will  be  served. 

PRAIRIE-CHICKEN  OR   GROUSE   ROASTED   (Dark  Meat) 

Grouse,  like  all  game,  should  not  be  too  fresh.  Wash  them  on 
the  outside  only,  the  same  as  directed  for  chicken  (page  181). 
Put  a  little  butter  inside  each  bird  and  truss  them  into  good 
shape.    Roast  them  in  a  hot  oven  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes, 


198  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

basting  them  frequently  with  melted  butter.  Five  minutes  be- 
fore removing  them  dredge  them  with  flour.  Boil  the  liver  of 
the  grouse,  pound  it  with  a  little  butter,  pepper,  and  salt  to  a 
paste;  spread  it  over  hot  buttered  toast  moistened  with  juice 
from  the  pan.  Serve  the  grouse  on  the  toast.  Prairie-chickens 
have  dark  meat,  and  many  epicures  declare  that  they  should  be 
cooked  quite  as  rare  as  canvasback  ducks  and  that  their  flavor 
when  so  served  is  unsurpassed.  Young  prairie-chickens  have  a 
much  lighter  meat  and  need  not  be  so  rare. 

aUAILS  BOASTED  (White  Keat) 

Draw  the  birds  carefully.  Wipe  them  inside  and  out  with 
a  damp  cloth;  do  not  wash  them  more  than  this.  Truss  them 
carefully,  letting  the  legs  stand  up  instead  of  down,  as  with 
a  chicken.  Tie  around  each  one  a  thin  slice  of  pork  or  bacon. 
Bake  in  a  hot  oven  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  Baste  fre- 
quently, having  in  the  pan  a  little  butter,  hot  water,  salt,  and 
pepper.  Serve  on  slices  of  toast  moistened  with  juice  from  the 
pan. 

anAHS  BROILED 

Split  them  down  the  back.  Broil  over  hot  coals  four  minutes 
on  each  side.  Baste  them  while  broiling  with  a  little  butter. 
When  they  are  done  spread  them  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper; 
place  them  on  slices  of  slightly  moistened  toast,  and  stand  them 
in  the  oven  a  few  minutes  to  soak  the  butter. 

SNIPE  AND  WOODCOCK  (Dark  Meat) 

Draw  the  birds  carefully.  Wipe  inside  and  out  with  a  wet 
cloth,  but  do  not  wash  more  than  this,  as  it  takes  away  their 
flavor.  Cut  off  the  feet,  and  skin  the  lower  legs,  which  can  be 
done  after  holding  them  a  minute  in  scalding  water.  Skin  the 
head,  and  take  out  the  eyes.  Press  the  bird  well  together; 
draw  around  the  head,  and  run  the  bill  like  a  skewer  through 
the  legs  and  body.  Wrap  each  one  in  a  thin  slice  of  pork  or 
bacon,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes;  baste  with  butter. 


GAME  199 

Chop  or  pound  the  hearts  and  livers  to  a  paste.  Season  with 
salt,  pepper,  onion  juice,  and  butter.  Spread  the  paste  on  slices 
of  toast  just  large  enough  to  hold  one  bird.  Place  the  crous- 
tades  in  the  oven  to  become  very  hot.  Pour  over  them  the 
juice  from  the  dripping-pan  holding  the  birds.  Place  the  birds 
on  the  toast,  and  serve  at  once.  Garnish  the  dish  with  water- 
cress.   The  croustades  are  better  fried  than  toasted. 

ROASTED  AND  BROILED  PARTRIDGE  (White  Meat) 
Dress  and  truss  the  partridge  the  same  as  a  chicken.  Lard 
the  breast,  or  cover  it  with  a  slice  of  salt  pork.  Put  into  the 
baking-pan  with  the  bird  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  two 
of  boUing  water.  Roast  in  a  hot  oven  about  forty  minutes,  bast- 
ing frequently. 

The  partridge  has  white  meat,  and  so  needs  to  be  thoroughly 
cooked,  but  not  dried.  Place  the  bird  on  a  hot  dish,  and 
around  it  on  the  same  dish  a  border  of  coarse  bread-crumbs, 
which  have  been  thoroughly  mixed  in  a  saucepan  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter.  Serve  in  a  sauce-boat  a  white  sauce 
or  a  bread  sauce.  If  the  partridge  is  to  be  broiled  split  it 
down  the  back,  rub  it  well  with  butter,  place  the  inside  next  the 
coals;  cover  and  broil  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Keep  it  well 
moistened  with  butter,  and  turn  it  to  brown  on  the  skin  side  a 
few  minutes  before  done.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
serve  on  buttered  toast. 

VENISON 
Venison  is  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  mutton.    The 
roasting  pieces  are  the  saddle,  and  haunch  or  leg.    It  should  be 
cooked  underdone,  allowing  ten  minutes  to  the  pound.    Serve 
with  it  currant  jelly  sauce  and  salad. 

VENISON  STEAK 

A  venison  steak  is  cooked  in  the  same  manner  as  a  beefsteak. 
A  little  melted  currant  jelly  is  served  on  the  same  dish,  or  as  a 
sauce  (see  page  287).* 

*  The  steak  should  he  moistened  with  the  sauce  so  it  will  have  a  glazed  appear- 
ance. 


Chapter  YI 

VEGETABLES 

The  simplest  way  of  cooking  vegetables  is  usually 
the  best ;  but  aU  kinds  need  seasoning  or  to  be  served 
General  ^^^  *  sauce.  They  should  be  cooked  only  until  ten- 
Directions,  der.  The  time  depends  upon  their  freshness.  The 
same  vegetable  sometimes  takes  twice  the  time  to 
cook  when  wilted.  They  should  be  well  washed  in 
cold  water  to  remove  all  dust  and  insects,  and  if 
wilted,  should  stand  some  time  in  it  to  refresh  them. 
Green  vegetables  are  put  into  salted  boiling  water, 
and  cooked  rapidly  in  an  uncovered  saucepan.  This 
will  preserve  their  color.  Overcooking  destroys  both 
their  color  and  appearance.  When  done  they  should 
be  removed  from  the  water  at  once  and  be  well 
drained  before  the  seasoning  is  added. 

One  vegetable  only  besides  potato  is  served  with  a 

meat  course,  but  cauliflower,  stuffed  tomatoes,  aspara- 

Serring.     gus,  green  corn,  egg-plant,  artichokes,  or  mushrooms 

may  be  served  as  a  separate  course. 

When  using  canned  vegetables,  turn  them  onto  a 

Canned     sieve  or  colander,  and  let  water  from  the  faucet  run 

Vegetables  over  them  in  order  to  remove  the  taste  of  the  can 

which  they  sometimes  have. 


KM 


VKGIOTAHLE     CUTTEKS. 

1.  Plane  for  cutting  Saratoga  Potatoes.    4.    Potato  scoops  for  cutting  balls. 

2.  Potato  Press  for  making  potato  rice. 

3.  Fluted  knives  for  potato  straws  or  fluted  slices,  and  for  potato  curls. 


STUFFED  BAKED  POTATOES.      (SEE  PAGE  '204.) 


VEGETABLES  201 

BOILED  POTATOES 

Wash  the  potatoes  well;  take  off  only  a  thin  paring,  and 
drop  them  at  once  into  cold  water  to  prevent  their  discolor- 
ing. Have  them  of  uniform  size,  or  cut  the  larger  ones  into 
pieces  the  size  of  the  small  ones,  so  they  will  all  be  cooked  at 
the  same  time,  for  after  a  potato  is  cooked  it  rapidly  absorbs 
water  and  becomes  soggy.  If  the  potatoes  are  old  or  with- 
ered, put  them  on  to  cook  in  cold  water;  if  fresh  and  firm, 
put  them  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  boil  slowly  about  thirty 
minutes,  or  until  they  can  be  easily  pierced  with  a  fork.  Then 
at  once  drain  off  every  drop  of  water ;  shake  them  in  the  pot  a 
moment  to  expose  all  sides  to  the  air;  sprinkle  with  a  little  salt; 
cover  the  pot  with  a  double  cloth,  and  place  it  on  the  back  of 
the  range  for  a  few  minutes  to  evaporate  all  the  moisture.  If 
treated  in  this  way  the  potatoes  will  be  dry  and  mealy. 

Violent  boiling  is  likely  to  break  the  outside  surface  and 
make  them  ragged  in  appearance. 

New  potatoes  are  boiled  with  the  skins  on. 

MASHED  POTATOES 

After  the  potatoes  are  boiled  and  dried  as  directed  above, 
mash  them  at  once  over  the  fire  and  in  the  same  pot  in  which 
they  were  boiled,  so  that  they  wiU  lose  no  heat.  Season  them 
with  salt,  butter,  and  cream  or  milk ;  heat  the  milk  and  butter 
together;  add  them  slowly,  and  beat  the  potatoes  well  with  a 
fork  or  an  egg-beater  until  they  are  very  light  and  white.  Turn 
them  into  a  hot  dish.    Do  not  smooth  the  top. 

POTATO  CAKES 

Mashed  potato  left  over  may  be  used  for  cakes.  Add  an  egg 
to  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  potato  and  beat  them  well  together 
until  light ;  form  it  into  cakes  or  balls ;  roll  them  in  flour  and 
saute  in  butter,  or  spread  the  mixture  in  a  layer  one  inch  thick ; 
cut  it  into  strips  or  squares  and  saute ;  or  put  it  into  a  well- 
buttered  border  mold ;  cover  with  greased  paper,  and  bake  for 


202  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  Let  it  stand  in  the  mold  for 
ten  minutes ;  then  turn  onto  a  dish,  and  fiU  the  center  with  any 
mince  or  with  creamed  fish.  Mashed  potato  without  egg  will 
not  hold  its  form  when  molded. 

POTATO  KICE 

Press  well-seasoned  mashed  potatoes  through  a  colander  or  a 
potato  press  onto  the  center  of  a  dish,  leaving  the  little  flakes 
lightly  piled  up.  Serve  chops  or  minced  meat  around  the 
mound  of  potato. 

POTATO  SOUFFLE 

To  two  cupfuls  of  smooth,  well-seasoned,  and  quite  moist 
mashed  potatoes  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  When  a  little 
cooled  stir  in  lightly  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  very  stiff. 
Put  the  whole  into  a  pudding-dish,  and  brown  it  in  a  quick 
oven. 

POTATO  ROSES 

To  two  cupfuls  of  well-seasoned  mashed  potatoes,  add  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  and  white  of  one,  and  beat  them  well  together. 
Place  it  in  a  pastry  bag  with  a  tube  having  a  star-shaped  open- 
ing (see  illustration),  and  press  it  through.  As  the  potato  comes 
from  the  tube,  guide  it  in  a  circle,  winding  it  around  until  it 
comes  to  a  point.  The  little  piles  of  potato  will  resemble  roses. 
Touch  them  lightly  with  a  brush  dipped  in  egg,  and  place  a  bit 
of  butter  on  each  one.  Put  them  in  the  oven  a  moment  to 
brown  slightly.  The  edges  touched  by  the  egg  wiU  take  a 
deeper  color.   Potato  roses  make  a  good  garnish  for  meat  dishes. 

POTATO  CROaUETTES 

To  two  cupfuls  of  well-se£isoned  mashed  potatoes  add  the 
beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a  tablespoonf ul  of  chopped  parsley, 
one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  (if  none  has  been  used 
in  seasoning),  a  dash  of  cayenne  and  nutmeg ;  stir  over  the  fire 
until  the  potato  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan.  When  cold,  form 
It  into  small  croquettes,  roll  them  in  egg  and  bread-crumbs  and 


VEGETABLES  203 

fry  them  in  hot  fat  to  an  amber  color.  Serve  on  a  napkin  (see 
frying  croquettes,  page  294).  The  croquette  mixture  may  be 
made  into  balls  enclosing  minced  meat.  When  used  in  this 
way  serve  with  it  a  white  sauce. 

POTATO  BALLS 

"With  a  potato  scoop  (see  illustration)  cut  balls  out  of  peeled 
raw  potatoes,  and  drop  them  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour.  Put 
them  into  salted  boiling  water  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  or 
until  tender ;  drain  off  the  water ;  cover  with  a  cloth  and  let 
stand  on  the  back  of  the  range  until  dry.  Serve  them  on  a 
napkin,  or  pour  over  them  white  sauce,  and  sprinkle  with  par- 
sley, or  use  them  as  a  garnish.  The  pieces  of  potato  left  from 
cutting  the  balls  can  be  boiled  and  mashed,  so  there  is  no  waste. 

POTATO  OMELET 

Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  dice  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square ; 
mix  them  with  enough  white  sauce  to  well  moisten  them. 

Place  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan ;  when  the 
butter  is  hot,  put  in  the  potatoes  and  saut6  them  until  browned 
on  the  bottom,  loosen  them  from  the  pan,  and  turn  them  like  an 
omelet  onto  a  flat  dish ;  or  this  preparation  may  be  put  in  a 
baking-dish,  sprinkled  with  crumbs  and  grated  cheese,  then  put 
in  the  oven  to  brown,  and  served  in  the  same  dish. 

CREAMED  POTATOES 

Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  that  are  a  little  underdone  into  dice 
or  into  slices  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  enough  milk  or  cream  to  cover  them,  and  cook 
until  the  potatoes  have  absorbed  nearly  all  the  milk ;  then  to 
every  two  cupfuls  of  potato  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  pepper,  and,  just  before 
serving,  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley  chopped  very  fine ;  or  a  white 
sauce  may  be  made,  using  cream,  if  convenient,  and  the  potatoes 
placed  in  it  just  long  enough  to  heat  them ;  or  a  cream  sauce  may 
be  poured  over  hot  boiled  potatoes ;  then  sprinkle  with  parsley. 


204  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

SBOILED  POTATOES 

Peel  and  cut  the  potatoes  lengthwise  into  slices  one  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick.  BroU  them  on  both  sides  over  moderate  heat 
until  tender ;  spread  each  slice];  with  butter,  and  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper.    Serve  very  hot. 

Or,  use  cold  boiled  potatoes.  Dip  each  slice  in  melted  but- 
ter j  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt  and  broil  three  minutes  on 
each  side. 

BAKED  POTATOES 

Select  large  potatoes  of  uniform  size  and  shape.  Wash  and 
scrub  them  with  a  brush.  Bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  about  an 
hour,  or  until  soft ;  press  them  to  see  if  done,  but  do  not  pierce 
them  with  a  fork  j  when  soft  break  the  skin  in  one  place,  and 
serve  at  once  on  a  napkin.    They  become  watery  if  kept. 

STUFFED  POTATOES 

Select  potatoes  of  equal  size  and  shape,  wash  and  scrub  them 
well  and  bake  them.  While  they  are  still  hot  cut  a  piece  off  the 
top  of  each,  and  with  a  spoon  scoop  out  the  potato,  leaving 
the  skin  unbroken.  Mash  and  season  the  potato,  using  a  little 
hot  milk  and  beating  it  well  to  make  it  light.  Fill  the  potato 
skins  with  the  mashed  potato,  letting  it  rise  a  little  above  the 
top  of  the  skin.  Place  a  piece  of  butter  on  the  top  of  each, 
and  put  them  in  the  oven  to  get  well  heated  and  slightly  brown 
the  tops;  or  cut  the  baked  potatoes  in  two,  lengthwise,  and  when 
the  skins  are  filled,  smooth  the  potato  even  with  the  skin;  brush 
them  with  egg  and  set  in  the  oven  to  glaze.    (See  illustration.) 

POTATOES  BAKED  WITH  MEAT 

Pare  the  potatoes,  and  place  them  in  the  dripping-pan  with 
the  meat  one  hour  before  the  meat  is  to  be  removed.  Baste 
them  with  the  drippings,  and  turn  so  all  sides  will  be  browned. 

LYOIWAISE  POTATOES 

Put  one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan. 
When  melted  add  a  scant  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion ;  let  it 


I 


VEaETABLES  205 

slightly  color,  then  add  two  cupfuls  of  cold  boiled  potatoes  cut 
into  dice.  Stir  until  the  potato  has  absorbed  all  the  butter, 
and  become  slightly  browned;  then  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Mix  well,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

FRIED  POTATOES 

Cold  boiled  potatoes  are  sliced,  then  put  into  a  saute-pan 
with  butter,  and  cooked  until  browned  on  both  sides.  If  rolled 
in  flour  they  will  form  a  crisp  crust.  Raw  potatoes  are  sliced 
or  cut  into  any  shape,  and  put  into  cold  water  for  half  an  hour. 
They  are  then  well  dried  on  a  napkin,  and  immersed  in  hot  fat 
until  done.  Too  many  must  not  be  put  in  the  basket  at 
once,  as  it  cools  the  fat  (see  frying,  page  72).  Fry  them  to  an 
amber  color;  then  drain,  and  place  them  on  a  paper  in  the  oven 
until  all  are  done.  Serve  them  at  once,  as  they  lose  their  crisp- 
ness  if  kept. 

FRIED  POTATO  BALLS  AND   STRAWS 

To  make  balls  use  a  potato  scoop ;  press  it  well  into  the  potato 
before  turning  it.  To  make  straws  cut  the  potato  into  slices 
lengthwise,  and  then  into  strips,  making  each  one  about  one 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick. 

Slices  or  strips  cut  with  a  fluted  knife  are  good  forms  for 
fried  potatoes.  Fry  the  potatoes  in  hot  fat,  using  a  basket. 
Fancy  fried  potatoes  are  used  to  garnish  any  broiled  meat  dish. 
There  are  many  kinds  of  cutters  to  give  different  shapes  to 
potatoes. 

SARATOGA  POTATOES 

Cut  the  potatoes  with  a  plane  into  slices  as  thin  as  paper  if 
possible.  Let  them  soak  in  cold  water  for  a  little  time  to  wash 
out  the  starch ;  then  put  them  into  fresh  water  with  a  piece  of 
ice  to  thoroughly  chill  them.  Drain  a  few  of  the  slices  at  a 
time,  dry  them  on  a  napkin ;  put  them  in  a  frying  basket  and 
immerse  them  in  smoking-hot  fat.  Keep  them  separated,  and 
remove  as  soon  as  slightly  colored.     Turn  them  into  a  colander 


206  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

to  drain,  and  sprinkle  them  with  salt.  When  the  second  lot  are 
fried  turn  those  in  the  colander  onto  a  paper  in  the  open  oven, 
and  so  on  until  all  are  done.  Saratoga  potatoes  should  he  per- 
fectly dry  and  crisp.  They  may  be  used  hot  or  cold,  and  will 
keep  for  some  time  in  a  dry  place.  If  wanted  hot,  place  them 
in  the  oven  a  moment  before  serving. 

PUFFED  OR  SOUFFLE  POTATOES 

Peel  the  potatoes;  cut  the  sides  square,  and  trim  off  the  cor- 
ners, so  as  to  give  an  oval  shape.  With  one  even  cut  slice  them 
one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  the  length  of  the  potato ;  they  must 
be  all  the  same  size  and  shape.  Soak  them  in  cold  water  for 
half  an  hour;  dry  them  on  a  napkin,  and  fry  them  in  fat  which 
is  only  moderately  hot  until  they  are  soft,  but  not  colored. 
Remove  and  place  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain  and  cool.  Then 
immerse  them  in  hot  fat,  when  they  will  puff  into  balls.  Toss 
the  basket,  and  remove  any  that  do  not  puff.  Sprinkle  with 
salt,  and  serve  them  on  a  napkin,  or  as  a  garnish.  Holland 
potatoes  best  suit  this  purpose ;  it  is  impossible  to  get  the  same 
result  with  most  of  the  other  varieties. 

SWEET  POTATOES 

Wash  and  scrub  the  potatoes;  put  them  in  boiling  water, 
and  cook  until  they  can  be  pierced  with  a  fork;  then  pour  off 
the  water.  Cover  the  pot  with  a  cloth,  and  draw  it  to  the  side 
of  the  range  to  let  the  potatoes  steam  for  ten  minutes.  Peel 
them  before  serving. 

BAKED  SWEET  POTATOES 

Wash  and  scrub  the  potatoes  without  breaking  the  skin. 

Bake  until  soft;  then  break  the  skin  in  one  place,  and  serve  at 

once. 

BROWNED   SWEET  POTATOES 

Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  slices  one  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  pepper;  spread  with  butter, 
and  sprinkle  with  sugar.    Place  them  in  a  hot  oven  to  brown. 


VEGETABLES  207 

SWEET  POTATO  CBOaUETTES 

Follow  the  rule  for  potato  croquettes  given  on  page  202. 

SWEET  POTATO  PUREE 

Mash  thoroughly  the  boiled  potatoes,  and  season  them  well 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter  j  add  enough  hot  milk  to  moisten 
them.  Serve  it  the  same  as  mashed  white  potato;  or  put  it  in 
a  pudding-dish,  brush  the  top  with  egg,  and  brown  it  in  the 
oven.  Serve  with  it  a  tomato  sauce,  and  use  as  a  luncheon 
dish.    Either  boiled  or  baked  potatoes  may  be  used. 

STEWED  TOMATOES 

If  fresh  tomatoes  are  used  remove  the  skins  by  placing  them 
in  boiling  water  a  few  minutes;  they  will  then  peel  off  easily. 
Cut  them  in  pieces,  and  stew  in  a  granite-ware  saucepan  until 
tender.  To  one  quart  of  tomatoes  add  one  teaspoonful  each  of 
salt  and  sugar,  one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter.  Thicken  with  a  teaspoonful  of  cornstarch 
wet  in  cold  water,  or  with  one  half  cupful  of  cracker  or  bread- 
crumbs. 

SCALLOPED  TOMATOES 

Season  a  can  of  tomatoes  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Spread  a  shallow  baking 
dish  with  a  thin  layer  of  bread-crumbs;  pour  in  the  tomatoes, 
sprinkle  over  them  a  tablespoonf ul  of  sugar,  and  a  few  drops  of 
onion  juice.  Cover  the  top  with  a  cupful  of  bread-crumbs 
which  have  been  moistened  with  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  but- 
ter. Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  in  the 
same  dish. 

STXTFFED  TOMATOES 

Select  large,  firm  tomatoes;  do  not  remove  the  skins;  cut  a 
small  slice  off  the  stem  end,  and  scoop  out  the  inside.  Fill 
them  with  a  stuffing  made  as  follows :  Put  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan ;  when  hot  add  one  tablespoonful  of  onion 
chopped  fine.    Let  it  color  slightly  j  then  add  three  quarters  of  a 


208  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

cupful  of  any  minced  meat,  chicken,  or  livers,  one  taWespoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  one  cupful  of  bread-crumbs,  the  pulp  taken 
from  the  tomatoes,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  quarter  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  also  an  egg  if  desired.  Stir  it  over  the 
fire  until  it  is  consistent.  Dust  the  inside  of  the  tomatoes  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  fill  them,  letting  the  stuflBng  rise  half  an 
inch  above  the  tomato,  and  place  a  piece  of  butter  on  it.  The 
above  amount  of  stuffing  is  enough  for  eight  tomatoes.  Cut 
slices  of  bread  one  half  inch  thick  into  circles  the  size  of  the  to- 
tomatoes;  dip  them  quickly  in  water,  and  place  in  a  baking- 
pan.  Place  a  tomato  on  each  piece  of  bread,  and  bake  in  oven 
about  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  the  stuffing  is  browned.  A  brown 
sauce  may  be  served  with  this  dish.  The  meat  may  be  omitted 
from  the  stuffing  if  desired.  If  convenient  it  is  better  to  use 
oil  instead  of  butter  with  tomatoes. 

BOASTED  TOMATOES 

Peel  the  tomatoes;  cut  a  piece  off  the  top,  and  remove  a  little 
of  the  pulp.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  or  a  few  drops  of  oil  in  each 
one ;  dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  replace  the  top,  sprinkle  it  with 
crumbs,  pepper,  and  salt.  Put  a  small  piece  of  butter  or  a  little 
oil  on  each  one,  and  place  on  a  slice  of  bread.  Bake  in  oven 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes. 

BROILED  TOMATOES 

Cut  the  tomatoes  horizontally  in  two;  leave  the  skins  on. 
Place  them  on  a  broiler  with  the  skin  side  down ;  dust  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  broU,  without  turning,  over  a  moderate  fire 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  or  until  tender.  Lay  them  on  a  hot 
dish,  and  spread  each  piece  with  either  butter,  oil,  maitre  d'hd- 
tel  sauce,  hot  Mayonnaise  or  Bearnaise;  or  the  tomatoes  may 
be  cut  into  thick  slices,  covered  with  oil,  and  then  broiled,  turn- 
ing frequently. 

TOMATO  EABGI 

Cut  the  tomatoes  in  halves;  place  them  in  a  frying-pan,  the 
open  side  down,  in  one  half  inch  deep  of  hot  fat.    Move  them 


VEGETABLES  209 

about  until  they  are  cooked  a  little  tender.  Then  lift  them 
carefully  without  breaking,  and  place  them  side  by  side  in  a 
baking-dish.  Pour  a  little  sweet  oil  around  them;  sprinkle 
with  chopped  garlic,  and  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne. 
Bake  in  hot  oven  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  Serve  in  same 
dish. 

GBEEN  PEAS 

The  flavor  of  peas,  and  also  the  time  required  for  cooking 
them,  depends  very  much  upon  their  freshness.  Put  them  in- 
to salted  boiling  water,  and  do  not  cover  the  saucepan ;  boil  ten 
to  twenty  minutes,  or  until  soft  enough  to  be  easily  mashed. 
Drain  off  the  water,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  butter. 
Mix  in  the  seasoning  carefully  with  a  fork,  so  as  not  to  break 
the  peas.  Sometimes  a  little  sugar  improves  them.  Use  plen- 
ty of  water  in  boiling,  and  do  not  let  them  be  overcooked,  as 
this  is  as  bad  a  fault  as  having  them  underdone.  When 
canned  peas  are  used  turn  them  onto  a  sieve,  and  rinse  them 
off  with  cold  water  (this  will  remove  the  taste  of  the  can, 
which  they  sometimes  have);  add  the  seasoning,  and  let  them 
become  thoroughly  heated.  They  do  not  require  any  more 
cooking. 

PUREE  OF  PEAS 

Boil  the  peas  until  very  tender;  mash  and  press  them 
through  a  sieve.  Place  them  again  in  the  saucepan,  and  stir 
into  them  enough  hot  milk,  pepper  and  salt,  to  well  moisten 
and  season  them;  add  also  some  butter,  and  a  very  little  sugar. 

Dried  peas  may  be  used  in  this  way,  but  require  soaking  and 
long  boiling.  The  puree  makes  a  pretty  garnish  pressed  through 
a  pastry  bag  like  potato  roses  (see  page  202),  or  into  a  fancy  bor- 
der around  a  dish. 

STRING  BEANS 

Remove  carefully  all  the  strings;    cut  the  beans  into  one- 
quarter  inch  pieces,  laying  a  number  together,  and  cutting  them 
at  one  time;  or  cut  eacB  bean  lengthwise  into  four  strips,  and  lay 
them  evenly  together.    Place  them  in  salted  boiling  water,  and 
u 


^10  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

boil  uncovered  until  tender;  drain  off  the  water,  and  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  butter,  or  mix  with  them  just  enough  white 
sauce  (page  277)  to  coat  them  well. 

FLAGEOLETS 

If  the  dried  beans  are  used  soak  them  several  hours  in  cold 
water;  then  throw  them  into  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil 
until  tender,  but  not  soft  enough  to  break.  Use  plenty  of 
water  in  boiling  them,  and  drain  well.  Season  with  butter, 
salt,  and  pepper.  If  cooked  right  the  beans  will  be  glossy. 
They  are  good  also  as  a  purfee,  the  same  as  puree  of  peas  (see 
page  209). 

LIMA  BEANS 

Put  them  into  salted  boiling  water,  and  cook  until  tender, 
then  drain  off  the  water.  Moisten  them  with  butter,  and  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper ;  and  add,  if  convenient,  a  little  hot 
cream,  or  cover  with  white  sauce. 

SPINACH 

Put  a  half  peck  of  spinach  into  cold  water  to  freshen;  pick  it 
over  carefully,  removing  all  the  wilted  and  yellow  leaves.  Pass 
it  through  five  changes  of  water  to  free  it  from  grit.  Put  it  in 
a  saucepan;  enough  water  wiU  cling  to  it  for  the  cooking. 
Cover  the  saucepan;  stir  occasionally  so  it  does  not  burn. 
After  fifteen  minutes  add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  cook  five 
minutes  longer ;  then  turn  it  into  a  colander  to  drain ;  when  it 
is  dry  chop  it  very  fine.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  and  a  half 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour.  After 
they  are  a  little  cooked  add  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt,  dash  of  pep- 
per, and  the  spinach.  Cook  five  minutes ;  then  add  a  half  cup- 
ful of  cream  or  mUk,  and  cook  another  five  minutes.  Stir 
constantly,  to  prevent  burning.  Taste  to  see  if  the  seasoning  is 
right.  Serve  either  in  a  vegetable  dish,  or  in  the  center  of  a  dish 
with  chops  around  it,  or  in  bread  boxes  as  shown  in  illustration ; 
or  press  the  spinach  into  individual  timbale  molds,  place  each 
form  on  a  square  of  toast,  and  garnish  the  top  of  each  one  in 


FORMS    OF    PUKEK    FOR    GARNISHING.      (SEE    PAGK8    209,  210,  AND    217.) 


CHAKTKEUSE  OF  SPINACH.      (SEE  PAGES  83  AND  211.) 

Border  of  alternate  strips  of  carrot  and  turnip.   Top  circles  of  carrot  and  turnip. 


VEGETABLES  211 

imitation  of  a  daisy  by  placing  in  the  center  some  of  the  yolks 
of  hard-boiled  eggs  which  have  been  pressed  through  a  sieve, 
and  around  this  center  a  circle  of  the  whites  of  the  eggs  chopped 
fine ;  or  a  thick  slice  of  hard-boiled  egg  may  be  pressed  into  the 
top  of  each  mold. 

SPINACH  SOUFFLE 

Take  a  cupful  of  spinach  which  has  been  prepared  as  directed 
above  (any  that  is  left  over  can  be  utilized  in  this  way) ;  mix 
with  it  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until 
the  egg  is  set.  Let  it  cool.  When  ready  to  serve  stir  into  it 
lightly  the  well-beaten  whites  of  three  eggs.  FUl  individual 
china  cups  or  buttered  paper  boxes  half  full,  and  place  them  in 
a  hot  oven  for  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  at  once.  Like  any 
soufl9.e,  it  will  fall  if  not  sufl&ciently  baked,  or  if  not  served 
very  promptly. 

CHARTREUSE    OF   SPINACH  OR  OF   CABBAGE 

Boil  a  large  carrot  and  turnip ;  cut  them  into  slices  length- 
wise three  eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  then  into  strips  of  the  same 
width.  Butter  well  a  tin  basin,  with  slightly  flaring  sides,  or  a 
plain  mold.  Ornament  the  bottom  with  hard-boiled  egg,  or 
with  fancy  pieces  of  the  vegetables.  Around  the  sides  of  the 
mold  place  close  together  alternate  strips  of  the  carrot  and  tur- 
nip. If  the  mold  is  well  buttered  they  will  easily  hold  in  place. 
Fill  the  center  with  spinach  or  with  seasoned  chopped  cabbage, 
and  press  it  down  so  it  is  quite  firm ;  smooth  the  top  and  cut 
off  the  strips  of  vegetable  so  that  they  are  even.  Heat  the 
chartreuse  by  placing  the  mold  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and 
putting  both  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes.  Turn  the  chart- 
reuse on  a  flat  dish  to  serve.  A  white  or  a  vinaigrette  sauce  goes 
well  with  this  dish.  Birds,  veal  cutlets,  chops,  chicken,  or  sweet- 
breads may  be  placed  on  top  of  the  chartreuse  if  desired. 

ASPARAGUS 

Scrape  the  stalks ;  let  them  stand  in  cold  water  for  half  an 
hour ;  tie  them  again  into  a  bundle  and  make  them  uniform  in 


212 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


length ;  put  them  into  salted  boiling  water  and  cook  about 
twenty  minutes  or  until  tender,  but  not  so  soft  as  to  be  limp. 
Place  the  asparagus  on  buttered  toast  and  remove  the  string. 
Serve  with  the  asparagus,  but  separately,  plain  melted  butter, 
a  white,  or  a  HoUandaise  sauce.  Cold  boiled  asparagus  is  served 
as  a  salad  with  plain  French  dressing  (see  page  375)  or  with  cold 
B^amaise  sauce. 

ASPARAGUS  TIPS 

Cut  the  asparagus  stalks  into  pieces  about  an  inch  long, 
and  as  far  down  as  tender.  Cook  them  in  salted  boiling  water. 
Drain  and  stir  into  them  just  enough  white  sauce  to  well  coat 
them. 

CABBAGE 

Four  vegetables  are  the  result  of  the  cabbage  plant 
by  cultivation.  As  the  rose  changes  its  character 
under  the  hand  of  the  floriculturist,  so  it  is  with  cab- 
bage at  the  hand  of  the  gardener.  First  is  the  cab- 
bage, which  is  the  leafy  bud  that  stores  up  food  for 
a  flower  the  next  year.  Second,  the  cauliflower,  which 
is  a  cluster  (corymb)  of  forced  cabbage  flowers.  Third, 
Brussels  sprouts.  The  leaves  are  picked  off,  and  small 
buds  form  along  the  stem;  and  fourth,  kohlrabi, 
which  is  the  leaves  turned  into  a  fleshy  tuberous-like 
vegetable.  In  these  results  two  of  the  phases,  cauli- 
flower and  Brussels  sprouts,  are  much  esteemed,  and 
are  given  rank  with  the  best  vegetables,  while  cab- 
bage and  kohlrabi  have  little  favor,  and  are  consid- 
ered coarse  and  vulgar  foods.  The  cabbage,  however, 
if  properly  cooked,  will  be  found  an  exceedingly  pala- 
table vegetable,  which  vety  closely  resembles  cauli- 
flower. 


Cabbage. 


Cauli- 
flower. 

Brossels 
sprouts. 

Kohlrabi. 


BOILED  CABBAGE 

If  this  receipt  is  exactly  followed,  this  much-despised  vegeta- 
ble will  be  found  very  acceptable,  and  its  odor  will  not  be  per- 


VEGETABLES  213 

ceptible  through  the  house.  Cut  the  cabbage  into  good-sized 
pieces,  take  off  the  outside  leaves,  and  cut  away  the  hard  core. 
Wash  it  well  in  two  changes  of  water,  and  place  the  pieces,  open 
side  down,  on  a  colander  to  drain.  Have  a  very  generous 
amount  of  water  in  a  large  saucepan  or  pot  j  let  it  boil  violently ; 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  quarter  teaspoonf ul  of  bak- 
ing soda ;  put  in  the  cabbage,  one  piece  at  a  time,  so  as  to  check 
the  boiling  as  little  as  possible.  Let  it  cook  for  twenty-five 
minutes  uncovered  and  boiling  rapidly  all  the  time.  Push  the 
cabbage  under  the  water  every  five  minutes.  Turn  it  into  a 
colander  and  press  out  all  the  water.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  heaping  teaspoonf  ul  of  flour,  one  half 
teaspoonf  ul  of  salt  and  a  dash  of  pepper ;  add  slowly  one  half 
cupful  of  milk,  and  stir  till  smooth;  then  add  the  cabbage. 
Cut  it  into  large  pieces  with  a  knife,  and  mix  it  lightly  with  the 
sauce.  If  the  cabbage  is  free  from  water  the  sauce  will  adhere 
to  it  and  form  a  creamy  coating. 

This  receipt  of  Catherine  Owen  has  been  found  most  sat- 
isfactory. 

CABBAGE  WITH   CHEESE 

{Very  Good.) 
Boil  the  cabbage  as  directed  above.  Press  out  all  the  water 
and  chop  it.  Make  a  white  sauce  of  one  tablespoonful  each  of 
butter  and  flour,  one  cupful  of  milk,  one  half  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  dash  of  cayenne  (see  page  277).  Spread  a  layer  of  cabbage  on 
the  bottom  of  a  pudding-dish ;  cover  it  with  white  sauce ;  then 
add  a  layer  of  grated  cheese.  Make  a  second  layer  of  cabbage, 
sauce,  and  cheese ;  cover  the  top  with  a  layer  of  crumbs  moist- 
ened with  butter,  and  place  it  in  the  oven.  "When  the  sauce 
bubbles  through  the  crumbs  it  is  done.    Serve  in  same  dish. 

SWEDISH  CABBAGE 

Slice  the  cabbage  into  thin  shreds  as  for  cold  slaw ;  cook  it 
in  a  generous  amount  of  rapidly  boiling  water  for  fifteen  min- 
utes ;  then  drain  off  the  water ;  cover  it  with  milk  ,•  add  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  bit  of  mace,  and  cook  until  tender,  and  until  the 


214  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

milk  has  boiled  away  so  that  it  only  moistens  the  cabbage.    Add 
a  piece  of  butter,  and  serve. 

HOT  SLAW 

Cut  the  cabbage  into  thin  shreds  as  for  cold  slaw.  (Use  a 
plane  if  convenient.)  Boil  it  until  tender  in  salted  fast-boiling 
water.  Drain  it  thoroughly,  and  pour  over  it  a  hot  sauce  made 
of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
dash  of  pepper  and  of  cayenne,  and  one  half  to  one  cupful  of 
vinegar,  according  to  its  strength.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  let 
it  stand  on  the  side  of  the  range  for  five  minutes,  so  that  the 
cabbage  and  sauce  will  become  well  incorporated. 

BRUSSELS   SPROUTS 

Remove  any  wilted  leaves  from  the  outside  of  the  sprouts, 
and  let  them  stand  in  cold  salted  water  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes,  so  that  any  insects  there  may  be  in  them  will  come 
out.  Put  the  sprouts  into  salted,  rapidly  boiling  water,  and 
cook  uncovered  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  or  until  tender,  but 
not  untU  they  lose  their  shape.  Drain  them  thoroughly  in  a 
colander;  then  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  butter,  pepper, 
and  salt,  and  toss  them  until  seasoned ;  or  mix  them  lightly  with 
just  enough  white  sauce  to  coat  them. 

CAULITLOWER 

Trim  oflf  the  outside  leaves  and  cut  the  stalk  even  with  the 
flower.  Let  it  stand  upside  down  in  cold  salted  water  for  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes  to  take  out  any  insects  there  may  be  in  it. 
Put  it  into  a  generous  quantity  of  rapidly  boiling  salted  water 
and  cook  it  uncovered  about  twenty  minutes  or  until  tender, 
but  not  so  soft  as  to  fall  to  pieces.  Remove  any  scum  from 
the  water  before  lifting  out  the  cauliflower.  If  not  perfectly 
white,  rub  a  little  white  sauce  over  it.  Serve  with  it  a  white,  a 
Bechamel,  or  a  Hollandaise  sauce ;  or  it  may  be  served  as  a  gar- 
nish to  chicken,  sweetbreads,  etc.,  the  little  bunches  being  broken 
off  and  mixed  with  white  sauce. 


VEGETABLES  215 

CAULIFLOWER  AU  GRATm 

Break  the  boiled  cauliflower  into  small  flowerets.  Place  them 
in  a  pudding-dish  in  alternate  layers  with  white  sauce  and 
grated  cheese.  Cover  the  top  with  crumbs  moistened  with 
butter,  and  bake  until  the  sauce  bubbles  through  the  crumbs. 

EGG-PLANT 

Cut  the  egg-plant  into  slices  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
after  removing  the  skin.  Sprinkle  the  slices  with  salt.  Pile 
them  one  upon  another  on  the  back  of  a  dish.  Place  on  them 
a  plate  holding  a  weight ;  let  it  stand  one  hour  to  express  the 
juice.  Dip  the  slices  in  egg  and  crumbs,  or  in  egg  and  flour, 
and  saute  on  both  sides  in  lard  or  drippings. 

STUFFED  EGG-PLANT 

Boil  an  egg-plant  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  or  until  tender. 
Cut  it  in  two  lengthwise,  and  take  out  the  pulp,  using  care  not 
to  break  the  skin.  Mash  the  pulp,  and  season  it  with  butter, 
salt,  and  pepper ;  replace  it  in  the  skins ;  sprinkle  with  bread- 
crumbs moistened  in  butter,  and  place  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

STUFFED  PEPPERS 

Use  green  sweet  peppers  of  uniform  size.  Cut  a  piece  off  the 
stem  end,  or  cut  them  in  two  lengthwise,  and  remove  the  seeds 
and  partitions.  Put  them  in  boiling  water  for  five  minutes  to 
parboil.  Fill  each  one  with  a  stuffing  made  of  equal  parts  of 
softened  bread-crumbs  and  minced  meat  well  seasoned  with  salt, 
butter,  and  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice.  Place  them  in  a  baking- 
dish  with  water,  or  better  stock,  half  an  inch  deep,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour.  Serve  them  in  the  same  dish 
if  a  suitable  one  is  used ;  if  not,  remove  them  carefully  to  an- 
other dish. 

CHESTNUT  PUR^E 

Remove  the  shells;  boU  ten  minutes  j  then  drain  and  remove 
the  skins.    Put  them  in  boiling  salted  water,  and  cook  until  ten- 


216  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

der;  then  drain,  masL,  and  press  them  through  a  colander. 
Season  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper;  moisten  with  cream,  or 
milk,  or  stock. 

CELEBT  STEWED 

Cut  the  celery  into  pieces  one  inch  long.  Boil  in  salted  water 
untU  tender;  drain  and  mix  with  a  white  sauce. 

CELEBT  AU  JUS 

Cut  heads  of  celery  into  pieces  six  inches  long,  leaving  them 
attached  to  the  root ;  remove  the  coarse  branches,  and  trim  the 
roots  neatly.  Parboil  it  for  five  minutes.  Make  a  brown  roux, 
using  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  butter  and  flour,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and 
dash  of  nutmeg.  Add  two  cupfuls  of  stock  when  the  roux  is 
well  browned ;  and  in  this,  place  the  bunches  of  celery ;  cover 
and  cook  very  slowly  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Remove  the 
celery,  and  place  it  evenly  on  a  dish.  Strain  the  gravy  j  pour 
it  around  or  over  the  celery. 

CABBOTS  AND  TUBNIPS 

Cut  carrots  and  turnips  into  dice  one  quarter  of  an  inch 
square,  or  with  a  small  potato  scoop  cut  them  into  balls.  Boil 
them  separately  in  salted  water ;  drain  and  mix  them  carefully 
together.  Stir  lightly  into  them  enough  white  sauce  to 
moisten  them  well. 

MAGEDODTE   OF  VEGETABLES 

Cut  a  carrot  and  turnip  into  half  inch  dice,  or  with  small 
vegetable-cutters  cut  them  into  fancy  shapes  or  into  small 
balls.  Mix  them  in  about  equal  proportions  with  green  peas, 
flageolet  beans,  string-beans  cut  into  half  inch  lengths,  and 
small  pieces  of  cauliflower.  The  vegetables  should  be  boiled 
separately  and  well  drained  before  being  put  together,  and 
when  prepared  should  be  mixed  lightly  so  as  not  to  break 


VEGETABLES  217 

them,  and  seasoned  with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt,  or  be  moist- 
ened with  a  Bechamel  or  a  cream  sauce.  The  mac6doine  may 
be  used  as  a  garnish  for  meat,  or  can  be  served  separately  in 
a  vegetable  dish.  This  mixture  of  vegetables  may  also  be  used 
for  a  salad.  Sometimes  the  vegetables,  instead  of  being  mixed 
together,  are  placed  in  separate  piles  around  the  meat  or  on  a 
flat  dish,  and  then  give  a  good  effect  of  color. 

DBIED  BEANS 

BOILED,  BAKED,  PURi^E,  CROQUETTES 

Wash  the  beans,  and  soak  them  over  night.  Boil  them  slowly 
until  tender,  changing  the  water  several  times.  They  are  im- 
proved in  flavor  by  boiling  with  them  a  small  piece  of  salt  pork, 
a  bay-leaf,  and  onion.  If  they  are  to  be  baked  remove  them 
from  the  water  when  the  skin  will  break  easily ;  put  them  in  a 
pipkin  or  beau  pot,  bury  in  them  a  piece  of  salt  pork  with  the 
rind  scored ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  over  them  a 
tablespoouful  of  molasses,  and  enough  salted  water  to  cover 
them.  Cover  the  pot  closely,  and  place  it  in  a  slow  oven  to 
cook  for  six  to  eight  hours. 

For  a  puree,  boil  the  beans  until  tender ;  mash  them  through 
a  colander.  Season  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper,-  and  add 
enough  cream  or  stock  to  make  them  the  right  consistency. 
This  is  called  "  Puree  Bretonne."  To  use  it  for  a  garnish,  press 
it  through  a  pastry  bag  into  forms  like  potato  roses  (see  page 
202),  or  put  it  into  small  fontage  cups  (see  page  300),  or  on  thin 
pieces  of  toast  the  size  of  a  silver  dollar.  To  make  croquettes 
add  a  beaten  egg  to  the  puree,  form  it  into  small  croquettes,  roll 
them  in  egg  and  crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat. 

BEETS 

Wash  beets  well,  but  do  not  break  the  skin,  or  they  will  lose 
their  color  in  boiling.  Cook  for  one  hour  if  young,  for  two  to 
three  hours  if  old.  When  done  throw  them  into  cold  water, 
and  remove  the  skins.  Season  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper. 
Serve  them  whole  if  small ;  cut  into  slices  if  large. 


ai8  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

SUMMER  SaUASH 

Wash;  cut  into  small  pieces;  cook  in  salted  boiling  water  for 
twenty  minutes,  or  until  tender.  Drain  thoroughly;  mash,  and 
press  out  all  the  water.  Season  with  butter,  pepper,  salt,  and 
cream  if  convenient. 

PABSinPS 

Boil  the  parsnips  one  hour,  or  until  tender;  throw  them  in 
cold  water,  and  remove  the  skins.  Cut  them  in  slices  length- 
wise one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pep- 
per. Dip  in  melted  butter;  then  roll  in  flour,  and  saute  on  both 
sides  until  browned.  Or  mash  the  boiled  parsnips;  season,  and 
stir  into  them  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  one  egg  to  bind 
them;   form  into  small  cakes,  and  saut6  in  drippings  untU 

browned  on  both  sides. 

• 
CXTCUMBEBS 

BOILED,  STUFFED 

Boiled :  Peel  the  cucumbers,  and  cut  them  lengthwise  into 
quarters.  Boil  them  in  salted  water  until  tender.  Make  a 
white  sauce  (page  277),  using  cream  instead  of  milk,  if  con- 
venient. Place  the  well-drained  cucumbers  in  the  sauce,  to  be 
heated  through;  then  sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

Stuffed:  Select  large  cucumbers  of  uniform  size.  Cut  them 
in  two  lengthwise.  With  a  spoon  remove  carefully  the  seeds, 
and  fiU  the  place  with  a  stuffing  made  of  equal  parts  of  minced 
chicken,  or  any  meat,  and  soft  crumbs,  seasoned,  and  moistened 
with  one  egg  and  a  little  stock.  Round  it  over  the  top,  and 
sprinkle  with  crumbs.  Place  the  pieces  in  a  pan  with  enough 
stock  to  cover  the  pan  one  half  inch  deep.  Cook  in  a  moderate 
oven  one  hour,  or  until  the  cucumbers  are  tender;  replenish 
the  stock  in  the  pan  if  necessary.  Remove  them  carefully  to  a 
hot  dish.  Thicken  the  gravy  in  the  pan  with  a  little  cornstarch, 
and  pour  it  around,  not  over  them.  This  dish  can  be  served  as 
an  entree. 


VEGETABLES  219 

LETTUCE  STEWED 

Wash  the  lettuce  carefully  to  remove  the  dust  and  any  in- 
sects. Take  off  the  wilted  leaves,  and  cut  the  root  even  with 
the  head.  Tie  the  top  together.  Lay  the  heads  side  by  side  in 
a  baking-pan;  add  enough  stock  to  cover  the  pan  one  and  a 
half  inches  deep.  Cover,  and  place  in  a  moderate  oven  to  sim- 
mer for  one  half  hour,  or  until  the  lettuce  is  soft;  renew  the 
stock  if  necessary.  Lift  the  lettuce  out  with  a  fork,  putting 
it  under  the  middle ;  let  it  drain,  and  lay  it  double,  as  it  will  be 
over  the  fork,  in  a  row  on  a  hot  dish.  Season  the  gravy  in  the 
pan  with,  butter,  salt,  and  pepper ;  thicken  it  with  cornstarch, 
or  with  a  beaten  egg,  and  serve  it  with  the  lettuce. 


oinoNS 

Put  them  in  salted  boiling  water,  and  cook  until  tender; 
drain,  and  pour  over  them  a  white  sauce,  or  melted  butter,  pep- 
per, and  salt.  If  browned  onions  are  wanted  for  garnishing 
place  them,  after  they  are  boiled  tender,  in  a  pan ;  sprinkle  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  sugar ;  and  put  them  in  a  hot  oven  to 
brown. 

STUEFED  SPANISH  ONIONS 

Peel  the  onions.  Scoop  out  from  the  top  a  portion  of  the  cen- 
ter. Parboil  them  for  five  minutes,  and  turn  them  upside  down 
to  drain.  Fill  them  with  a  stuffing  made  of  equal  parts  of  minced 
chicken,  or  meat,  and  soft  bread-crumbs,  chop  fine  the  onion 
taken  from  the  center,  and  add  it  to  the  mixture.  Season  it  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten  it  with  melted  butter.  Fill  the 
onions  heaping  full,  and  sprinkle  the  tops  with  crumbs.  Place 
them  in  a  pan  with  an  inch  of  water ;  cover,  and  let  cook  in  an 
oven  for  an  hour,  or  until  tender,  but  not  so  long  as  to  lose 
shape.  Take  off  the  cover  the  last  five  minutes,  so  they  will 
brown  very  slightly. 


'220  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

CORK  ON  THE  EAR 

Strip  off  the  husk  and  silk.  Put  into  boiling  water ;  cover, 
and  boil  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  Do  not  salt  the  water,  as  it 
hardens  the  hull.  , 

CORK  MOCK  OYSTERS 

Cut  down  through  the  center  of  the  grains,  each  row  of  green 
corn  on  the  ear  and  with  the  back  of  a  knife  press  out  the 
pulp,  leaving  the  hulls  on  the  ear.  To  a  pint  of  the  pulp  add 
two  beaten  eggs,  one  teaspoonf ul  each  of  butter  and  salt,  a  dash 
of  pepper,  and  enough  flour  to  bind  it.  Roll  it  into  small  cakes, 
and  saute  them  in  butter;  or  it  may  be  dropped  from  a  spoon 
into  hot  fat,  making  fritters.  These  may  be  made  of  canned 
corn,  in  which  case  use  a  little  milk  and  sugar. 

CANNED  CORN 

Turn  it  into  a  sieve,  and  let  a  little  water  run  over  it  from 
the  faucet.  Put  it  into  a  shallow  baking  dish ;  add  to  one  can- 
ful  of  corn  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  half  cupful  of 
cream  or  milk,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash  of  pep- 
per. Place  in  the  oven  to  brown  the  top,  and  serve  in  the 
same  dish. 

SUCCOTASH 

Mix  equal  parts  of  corn,  cut  from  the  ear,  and  any  kind  of 
beans;  boil  them  separately;  then  stir  them  lightly  together, 
and  season  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper  and  add  a  little  cream 
if  convenient. 

ARTICHOKES 

Cut  the  stems  off  even  with  the  leaves ;  remove  the  hardest 
bottom  leaves,  and  cut  off  the  top  ones  straight  across,  leaving 
an  opening.  Take  out  the  inside,  or  choke.  "Wash  well,  and 
place  upside  down  to  drain.  Put  them  into  boiling  water  for 
half  an  hour,  or  until  the  leaves  pull  out  easily ;  drain  well,  and 
serve  on  a  napkin.    They  should  be  cut  with  a  sharp  knife  into 


VEGETABLES  221 

halves  or  quarters,  and  served  with  white,  Bechamel,  or  Hol- 
landaise  sauce.  The  bottom  and  the  base  of  the  leaves  only 
are  eatable. 

ABTICHOKE  BOTTOMS 

Remove  all  the  leaves  and  choke.  Trim  the  bottoms  into 
good  shape.  Boil  them  in  salted  water  until  tender.  Serve 
with  Bechamel  or  HoUandaise  sauce.  Or  cut  the  leaves  close 
to  the  bottom,  and  divide  it  into  quarters.  Cook,  and  serve  the 
same  way. 

Canned  artichoke  bottoms  can  be  procured,  which  are  very 
good. 


Chapter  VII 


FAErKTACEOUS  FOODS  USED  AS  VEGETABLES 

RECEIPTS  FOR  MACARONI  AND  CEREALS 

TO  BOIL  BICE 

Wash  the  rice  well,  and  drain  it.  It  must  be  washed  in  several 
waters,  and  until  the  floury  coating,  which  is  usually  on  rice,  is 
all  removed.  This  flour  makes  it  pasty,  and  holds  the  grains  to- 
gether. Have  a  large  saucepan  of  salted  boiling  water.  Place  it 
on  the  hottest  part  of  the  range,  so  it  will  boU  violently.  Sprinkle 
in  the  rice  slowly,  so  as  not  to  stop  the  boiling,  and  let  it  cook 
for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  uncovered.  At  the  end  of  fifteen 
minutes  take  out  a  few  grains.  If  they  are  soft  when  pressed 
between  the  fingers,  they  are  done.  Then  drain  off  every  drop 
of  water;  sprinkle  with  salt;  cover  the  pot  with  a  napkin,  using 
one  thickness  only — and  set  it  on  the  side  of  the  range  to  steam 
and  become  perfectly  dry.  Or  the  rice  may  be  turned  into  a 
colander  to  drain,  then  placed  in  the  open  oven  to  dry.  Use  a 
large  amount  of  water  in  proportion  to  the  rice.  Have  it  violent- 
ly agitated  all  the  time  to  keep  the  grains  separated.  Do  not 
cook  it  too  long,  and  do  not  stir  or  touch  it  while  cooking. 
The  cloth  will  not  prevent  the  moisture  escaping,  and  will  help 
to  keep  it  warm  while  it  is  drying.  If  these  simple  rules  are 
observed,  each  grain  will  be  separate  and  dry.    Do  not  cover 


FARINACEOUS  FOODS  223 

the  dish  in  which  it  is  served.    Rice  cooked  in  this  way  can  be 
served  in  the  place  of  potatoes. 

EIGE  AST)  TOllATO 

To  a  cupful  of  boiled  rice  add  a  half  cupful  of  strained  tomato 
sauce,  which  has  been  well  seasoned  with  butter,  salt,  pepper, 
and  bay-leaf.  Toss  them  together,  or  mix  lightly  with  a  fork 
so  as  not  to  mash  the  grains.    Serve  as  a  vegetable. 

PARCHED  RICE 

Boil  rice  as  directed  above,  so  each  grain  will  be  separate. 
Let  it  get  cold,  then  separate  the  grains  lightly  with  a  fork  on 
a  flat  dish.  Put  into  a  frying-pan  just  enough  butter  to  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  pan ;  when  it  is  hot  add  a  little  of  the  rice  at 
a  time,  and  saute  it  to  a  delicate  color.  Shake  the  pan  con- 
stantly to  keep  the  grains  separated.  Remove  the  rice  as  it  is 
done,  and  spread  on  a  paper  to  dry  in  an  open  oven.  The  rice 
should  not  be  greasy  when  served.  This  makes  a  good  rice 
dish  to  serve  as  a  vegetable  with  broiled  meats. 

FARINA  BALLS 

^  cupful  of  farina  Dash  of  cayenne. 

2  cupfuls  of  milk  5  drops  of  onion  juice. 

^  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt.  Yolk  of  1  egg. 

Cook  the  milk  and  farina  in  a  double  boiler  for  twenty  to 
thirty  minutes.  Wet  the  farina  with  a  little  cold  milk  before 
stirring  it  into  the  boiling  milk,  so  it  will  be  smooth ;  add  the 
salt,  and  cook  to  stiffness,  or  until  the  milk  has  evaporated, 
then  add  the  cayenne,  onion  juice,  and  beaten  yolk  of  egg. 
Stir  well  to  mix,  and  to  cook  the  egg;  pour  it  onto  a  dish. 
When  cold  roll  it  into  balls  one  inch  in  diameter  j  roll  the  balls 
in  crumbs,  then  in  egg  (the  white  and  yolk  with  one  table- 
spoonful  of  water,  beaten  only  enough  to  break),  and  again  in 
white  crumbs.  Fry  them  in  hot  fat  for  one  minute,  or  to  a 
light  amber  color.     Be  sure  the  balls  are  completely  coated 


224  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

with  egg  and  crumbs,  or  they  will  break  in  frying.  Anj'-  cold 
cereals  can  be  used  in  this  way.  They  make  a  very  pretty  dish. 
Serve  on  a  napkin,  or  to  garnish  a  meat  dish. 

FRIED  HOMINY 

Cut  cold  boiled  hominy  into  slices  one  half  inch  thick,  then 
into  pieces  of  uniform  size.  RoU  in  flour,  and  saute  on  both 
sides,  or  dip  them  in  egg  and  crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat. 

FRIED  CORN  HUSH 

Pour  well-boiled  cornraeal  mush  (page  228)  into  a  bread-tin 
or  dish  with  straight  sides,  so  it  will  cut  in  even  slices.  Make 
the  mush  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  used,  so  it  will  have  time  to 
harden.  Cut  it  in  pieces  one  half  inch  thick,  and  into  any  shape 
desired,  but  have  the  pieces  uniform.  Roll  each  one  in  egg 
and  flour,  and  fry  in  hot  fat;  or  they  may  be  rolled  in  milk, 
then  in  flour,  and  sauted  in  butter.  They  should  have  a  crust 
on  both  sides.  It  is  good  served  as  a  vegetable  with  game,  or 
as  a  breakfast  dish  with  or  without  syrup. 


MACARONI 

The  best  macaroni  is  smooth,  has  a  fine,  close 
General  grain  and  clear  yellow  color.  It  is  made  of  flour 
directions,  and  water  only,  and  when  cooked  needs  the  season- 
ing of  a  good  sauce.  It  is  generally  mixed  with 
cheese,  but  tomato,  cream,  or  Bechamel  sauces  make  a 
good  combination.  When  macaroni  is  to  be  boiled 
in  long  pieces  to  be  used  for  timbales,  hold  the  pieces 
in  a  bunch,  and  lower  them  gradually  into  hot  water. 
They  will  quickly  soften,  and  can  be  turned  into  a 
circle  in  the  saucepan.  They  must  be  removed  when 
tender,  and  not  cooked  until  they  lose  form.  When 
done  drain  off  the  hot  water,  and  pour  on  cold  water 
for  a  few  minutes ;  then  lay  them  straight  on  a  cloth. 


BEAN    POT. 


KAKINA   IJALUfi.      (SEE  PAGE  223.) 


FARINACEOUS  FOODS  225 

SPAGHETTI 

Spaghetti  is  a  small  and  more  delicate  form  of 
macaroni.     It  is  boiled  until  tender  in  salted  water     How  to 
and  is  combined  witli  cheese  and  with  sauces  the  same      '^^^' 
as  macaroni,  and  is  usually  left  long.    It  makes  a 
good  garnish. 

BAKED  MACARONI,  WITH  CHEESE 

Take  as  much  macaroni  as  will  half  fill  the  dish  in  which  it 
is  to  be  served.  Break  it  into  pieces  two  and  a  half  to  three 
inches  long.  Put  it  into  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  twelve 
to  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  the  macaroni  is  perfectly  soft. 
Shake  the  saucepan  frequently  to  prevent  the  macaroni  from 
adhering  to  the  bottom.  Turn  it  into  a  colander  to  drain ;  then 
put  it  into  a  pudding-dish  with  butter,  salt,  and  grated  cheese. 
If  much  cheese  is  Uked,  it  may  be  put  into  the  dish  in  two  lay- 
ers, alternating  the  seasoning  with  the  macaroni.  Cover  it 
with  milk,  and  bake  until  the  milk  is  absorbed  and  the  top 
browned.  A  tablespoonful  or  more  of  melted  butter  should  be 
used  to  a  half  pound  of  macaroni.  The  macaroni  called  "  Mez- 
zani,"  which  is  a  name  designating  size,  not  quality,  is  the  pref- 
erable kind  for  macaroni  dishes  made  with  cheese. 

MACARONI  AU  ORATIN 

Boil  the  macaroni  as  directed  above.  Drain  it  in  a  colander; 
then  return  it  to  the  saucepan  with  butter  and  grated  cheese. 
Toss  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  absorbed  and  the  cheese 
melted.    Serve  at  once  before  the  cheese  has  time  to  harden. 

A  mixture  of  Parmesan  and  of  Swiss  cheese  is  often  liked ; 
the  former  strings  when  melted ;  the  latter  becomes  liquid. 

MACARONI  WITH  TOMATO  OR  OTHER  SAUCES 

Boil  the  macaroni  as  directed  above;  drain  it  in  a  colander; 
then  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  and  mix  it  with  tomato  sauce, 
with  cream  sauce,  or  with  Bechamel  sauce ;  toss  until  they  are 
well  mixed ;  serve  in  a  vegetable  dish  or  as  a  garnish. 

15 


226  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

HAOABONI  WITH  MINCED  MEAT 

Mix  boiled  macaroni  with  minced  chicken  or  any  meat,  and 
moisten  with  white  or  brown  sauce.  The  meat  should  be 
minced  very  fine.    This  makes  a  good  luncheon  dish. 

BECEIPT  FOE  MACABONI 

(PEOM  MES.  MASPERO.) 

Put  the  macaroni  into  salted  boiling  water,  and  cook  it  twelve 
to  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  it  is  tender.  Do  not  let  the  water  boil 
violently,  as  this  breaks  the  macaroni.  When  it  is  cooked, 
drain  off  all  the  water,  and  cover  the  hot  macaroni  with  grated 
cheese  (Parmesan  and  Gruy^re  mixed).  With  two  forks  mix 
lightly  the  cheese  with  the  macaroni.  Turn  it  into  the  hot 
serving-dish,  and  pour  over  it  the  sauce  given  below.  Serve  at 
once. 

SAUCE  FOR  MAGAEONI,  FOB  BISSOTTO, 
AND  FOB  FOLEITTA 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  and  a  half  tablepoonfuls  of  butter. 
Add  a  small  onion  chopped  fine  and  a  half  clove  of  garlic.  Cook 
until  aU  are  browned ;  then  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  water  in 
which  the  macaroni  was  boiled,  and  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  beef  ex- 
tract. Add,  also,  three  or  four  soaked  mushrooms,  and  let  it 
simmer  for  five  minutes. 

This  amount  of  sauce  is  enough  for  a  pound  of  macaroni. 

The  mushrooms  given  in  this  receipt  are  the  dried  c^pes, 
which  can  be  bought  by  the  pound  at  Italian  groceries.  They 
are  the  best,  after  the  fresh  mushrooms,  to  use  for  sauces.  They 
should  not  be  cooked  longer  than  five  minutes  to  give  their  best 
flavor. 

SAUCE  FOB  MACABONI  Na  9 

(MRS.  MASPERO.) 

Make  a  sauce  as  directed  for  No.  1 ,  using  in  place  of  the  beef 
extract  a  cupful  of  chopped  round  of  beef,  and  a  cupful  of 
tomatoes. 


FAEINACEOUS  FOODS  227 

SAUCE  FOR  MACAEONI  No.  3 

(MES.  MASPERO.) 

When  roasting  an  upper  round  of  beef  stick  into  it  six  cloves, 
a  clove  of  garlic,  and  a  few  lardoons  of  pork.  Sprinkle  it  weU 
witli  salt  and  pepper.  After  the  beef  is  roasted,  turn  the  juice 
from  the  pan  over  the  macaroni  and  cheese. 

POLENTA 

(MRS.  MASPERO.) 

Make  a  cornmeal  mush ;  boil  it  for  a  long  time,  until  it  is 
firm  and  hard.  Cut  it  in  slices  or  leave  it  in  one  piece.  Pour 
over  it  sauce  No.  1  given  above. 

RISSOTTO 

(MRS.  MASPERO.) 

Boil  rice  until  tender,  but  not  soft.  The  Italian  rice  must  be 
used,  as  it  does  not  get  soft  like  the  Carolina  rice ;  when  the  rice 
is  done,  drain  off  the  water  and  steam  it  dry;  then  add,  while 
the  rice  is  still  on  the  fire,  some  mixed  grated  Parmesan  and 
Swiss  cheese.  Turn  them  together  lightly  until  the  cheese  has 
softened,  then  put  it  into  the  hot  serving-dish,  and  cover  with 
sauce  No.  1  given  above. 

CEREALS 

OATMEAL  PORRIDGE  ^ 

Oatmeal  is  ground  in  different  grades  of  coarse- 
ness, and  some  brands  are  partly  cooked  before  they 
are  put  up  for  sale  ,•  therefore  the  time  for  cooking 
varies,  and  it  is  better  to  observe  the  directions  given 
on  the  packages.  Oatmeal  requires  to  be  cooked  un- 
til very  soft,  but  should  not  be  mushy.  The  ordinary 
rule  is  to  put  a  cupful  of  meal  into  a  quart  of  salted 
boiling  water  (a  teaspoonful  of  salt),  and  let  it  cook 


228  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

in  donble  boiler  the  required  time.  It  is  well  to  keep 
the  pan  covered  until  the  oatmeal  is  cooked,  then  re- 
move the  cover  and  let  the  moisture  evaporate  until 
the  oatmeal  is  of  the  right  consistency.  It  should  be 
moist  enough  to  drop  but  not  run  from  the  spoon.  It 
should  be  lightly  stirred  occasionally  to  prevent  its 
sticking  to  the  pan,  but  carefully  so  as  not  to  break 
the  grains. 

If  carefully  cooked,  the  sides  of  the  pan  will  not  be 
covered  with  burned  oatmeal,  and  so  wasted. 

Oatmeal  is  very  good  cold,  and  in  summer  is  better 
served  in  that  way.  It  can  be  turned  into  fancy 
molds  or  into  small  cups  to  cool,  and  will  then  hold 
the  form  and  make  an  ornamental  dish. 

CBACKED  WHEAT 

Add  to  three  cupfuls  of  water  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt; 
when  it  boils  add  a  half  cupful  of  cracked  wheat,  and  let  it  cook 
uncovered  untU  the  water  is  nearly  evaporated ;  then  add  three 
cupfuls  of  hot  milk ;  cover  and  cook  until  the  wheat  is  soft ; 
then  uncover  and  cook  to  the  right  consistency.  It  should  be 
quite  moist.  Stir  it  carefully  from  time  to  time  while  it  is 
cooking,  but  with  care  not  to  break  the  grains. 

Turn  into  molds  to  harden,  and  serve  cold  with  sugar  and  milk. 

COSimEAL  HUSH 

Sprinkle  with  the  hand  a  pint  of  cornmeal  into  rapidly  boil- 
ing salted  water,  stirring  all  the  time.  Cook  for  half  an  hour ; 
or  mix  the  cornmeal  with  a  pint  of  milk  and  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  turn  it  slowly  into  a  quart  of  boUing  water;  cook  for 
half  an  hour,  stirring  constantly.  This  may  be  eaten  cold  or  hot, 
with  milk,  with  butter  and  sugar,  or  with  syrup.  When  cold 
it  can  be  cut  into  slices  and  browned  on  both  sides  in  a  saut6- 
pan,  and  used  as  a  vegetable  dish,  or  as  a  breakfast  dish,  and 
may  be  eaten  with  syrup. 


Chaptee  YIII 

A  GROUP  OF  EECEIPTS  FROM  A 
NEW  ENGLAND  KITCHEN 

(SUPPLIED  BY  SUSAN  COOLIDGE) 

Many  of  the  receipts  in  this  little  "  group "  have 
never  before  appeared  in  print.  They  are  copies  from 
old  grandmother  and  great-grandmother  receipt- 
books,  tested  by  generations  of  use,  and  become,  at 
this  time,  traditional  in  the  families  to  which  they 
belong.  They  are  now  given  to  the  public  as  exam 
pies  of  the  simple  but  dainty  cooking  of  a  by-gone 
day,  which,  while  differing  in  many  points  from  the 
methods  of  our  own  time,  in  its  way  is  no  less  delicious. 

SPLIT  PEA  SOUP 

Soak  one  quart  of  split  peas  in  lukewarm  water  for  three 
hours.  Pour  off  the  water  and  boil  the  peas  in  three  and  a 
half  quarts  of  salted  water  till  they  are  thoroughly  soft.  Rub 
through  a  colander,  and  throw  away  whatever  does  not  pass 
through.    This  will  keep  several  days. 

Take  out  the  quantity  needed  for  dinner  (allowing  a  gener- 
ous quart  to  three  persons) ;  boil  in  it  a  small  piece  of  pork, 
onion,  and  a  little  white  pepper  and  salt ;  strain  and  serve  very 
hot,  with  small  cubes  of  fried  bread  dropped  into  the  tureen. 

BLACK  BEAN  SOUP 

1  quart  of  black  beans.  The  bone  of  a  boiled  ham. 

4  quarts  of  water.  6  cloves. 

4  peppercorns. 

229 


230  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Boil  on  the  back  of  the  range  for  twelve  hours ;  rub  through 
a  colander  and  set  away  to  cool. 

This  should  make  soup  for  two  dinners  for  a  family  of  six. 
When  served,  add  a  glass  of  wine  to  each  tureenful,  two  or 
three  slices  of  lemon,  and  cubes  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 

CLAM  SOUP 

Boil  a  quart  of  clams  in  their  own  liquor  till  they  are  tender; 
then  chop  them  fine  and  return  to  the  broth. 

Stir  together  until  smooth  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and 
one  and  a  half  of  flour,  and  with  them  thicken  the  soup.  Add 
very  carefully  a  pint  of  milk,  stirring  to  avoid  curdling,  and  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  with  pepper  and  salt,  after  taking 
the  mixture  from  the  fire. 

CLAM  CHOWDEB 

Cut  one  half  pound  of  salt  pork  into  slices,  and  fry  them 
brown ;  chop  two  small  onions,  and  cook  them  with  the  pork. 
Stew  separately  a  quart  of  tomatoes,  canned  or  fresh,  and  a  quart 
of  sliced  potatoes.  When  all  are  done,  put  them  together  with 
one  quart  of  clams  and  their  juice.  Add  three  pints  of  water, 
salt,  pepper,  a  little  thyme,  a  very  little  flour  for  thickening,  and 
a  handful  of  small  whole  crackers.  Stew  all  together  for  half 
an  hour,  and  serve  very  hot. 

FISH  CHOWDEB 

Three  pounds  of  fresh  codfish  well  boiled  and  the  bones  care- 
fully removed.  Two  onions  chopped  fine  and  fried  with  half  a 
pound  of  salt  pork,  cut  into  small  dice.  Six  potatoes  cut  small, 
a  pint  of  water,  a  little  salt  and  white  pepper.  Stew  for  twenty 
minutes,  thicken  slightly  with  a  little  flour ;  add  a  pint  and  a 
haK  of  milk,  and  let  all  boil  up  once,  stirring  thoroughly.  Put 
a  handful  of  oyster  crackers  into  a  hot  tureen,  and  pour  the 
mixture  over  them. 


NEW  ENGLAND  RECEIPTS  231 

BBOWKED  OYSTERS 

Take  thirty  large  oysters  (about  three  pints) ;  wash  them  in 
their  own  liquor.  Add  to  one  pint  of  milk  three  tablespoonf  uls 
of  the  oyster  liquor,  well  strained,  a  very  little  mace,  and  a  bit 
of  butter  about  the  size  of  an  English  walnut,  and  make  the 
mixture  scalding  hot.  Rub  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  per- 
fectly smooth  with  a  little  of  the  milk ;  pour  in  and  stir  until 
the  whole  is  thick.  Then  drop  in  the  oysters ;  cook  five  min- 
utes or  so,  till  they  are  well  plumped  out,  and  add  a  little  salt, 
white  pepper,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce. 
Serve  on  a  platter  on  slices  of  buttered  toast. 

FISH  AND  OYSTERS 

Make  a  pint  or  more  of  white  sauce,  with  flour,  butter,  and 
hot  milk,  carefully  stirred  till  smooth  and  thick.  Pick  to  fine 
bits  two  quarts  of  cold  boiled  codfish,  and  add  one  pint  of  oys- 
ters chopped  fine.  Fill  a  well-buttered  pudding-dish  with  al- 
ternate layers  of  the  fish  and  oysters  and  white  sauce,  sprink- 
ling a  little  salt  over  the  layers  of  cod.  Cover  the  top  of  the 
dish  with  fine  bread-crumbs  and  small  bits  of  butter  j  baste 
with  a  little  cold  water,  and  bake  tUl  the  top  is  browned. 


SCALLOPED  OYSTERS 

Three  pints  of  oysters ;  a  quart  of  sifted  bread-crumbs.  Place 
a  layer  of  crumbs  in  the  bottom  of  a  rather  deep  baking-dish, 
then  a  layer  of  oysters,  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  white  pepper. 
Repeat  the  process  till  the  dish  is  filled.  Cover  the  top  with 
crumbs  and  a  layer  of  soft  bread  broken  into  bits  and  placed 
round  the  edge  of  a  circle  of  small  oyster  crackers.  "Wet  the 
whole  with  half  a  pint  of  soup  stock  and  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of 
oyster  liquor.  Cover  the  top  generously  with  butter  cut  into 
fine  bits.  Pour  over  the  whole  a  glass  of  sherry,  and  bake  an 
hour. 


383  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

PICKLED  OYSTERS 

Scald  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  with  a  little  water  added, 
till  they  are  plump.  Skim  them  out,  and  drop  into  a  bowl  of 
cold  water ;  rinse  well  and  put  them  in  glass  jars. 

Scald  an  equal  quantity  of  the  liquor  and  vinegar  with  whole 
peppers,  mace,  and  salt,  and  when  perfectly  cold  fill  the  jars  up 
with  it.    These  will  keep  two  or  three  weeks. 

FBICASSEED  OYSTERS 

Drain  a  quart  of  large  oysters  from  their  liquor,  and  place 
them  in  a  covered  saucepan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good 
butter.  Set  them  on  the  back  of  the  range,  and  let  them  sim- 
mer  gently  till  the  oysters  are  well  plumped  out. 

Put  the  oyster  liquor  in  another  saucepan  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  cracker,  and  a  little  pepper.  When  the 
oysters  are  done,  remove  them  from  the  butter  with  a  fork,  and 
place  them  on  toasted  crackers  on  a  hot  platter.  Add  the  but- 
ter in  which  they  have  been  cooked  to  the  oyster  broth.  Let  it 
boil  up  once.    Stir  in  half  a  pint  of  cream,  and  pour  over  the 

oysters. 

STEWED  LOBSTER 

Cut  a  boiled  lobster  weighing  four  pounds  into  small  pieces. 
Thicken  a  half  pint  of  milk  with  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  flour  and  a 
tablespoonf ul  of  butter ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  dry  mustard,  and 
a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Stew  the  lobster  in  this  tUl  it  is  quite 
tender,  and  lastly  add  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  vinegar. 

FISH  BALLS 

MAINE 

Soak  over  night  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  boneless  codfish. 

In  the  morning  shred  the  fish  (uncooked)  very  carefully  with 
a  silver  fork  till  it  is  fine.  Add  to  it  a  dozen  potatoes  of 
medium  size,  freshly  boUed,  mashed,  and  rubbed  through  a 
sieve,  two  beaten  eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  little  hot 
yn'iWc  or  cream,  and  a  sprinkling  of  white  pepper. 

Mold  into  round  balls,  and  drop  into  very  hot  fat. 


NEW  ENGLAND  RECEIPTS  233 

CODFISH  AND  CREAM 

Shred  two  thirds  of  a  bowlful  of  salt  codfish,  wash  it  several 
times  with  fresh  water,  drain  off  the  water,  and  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  pint  of  sweet  cream  and  half  a  pint  of  sweet 
milk.  Let  it  come  nearly,  but  not  quite,  to  the  boiling  point. 
Beat  together  one  egg,  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  flour,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sweet  milk;  add  it  to  the  fish,  and  stir  continually 
until  it  is  done.  Put  the  mixture  in  a  hot  dish,  and  add  a  large 
spoonful  of  butter,  stirring  it  thoroughly. 

0TSTEB8  ON  A  CHAFING-DISH 

Put  into  the  chafing-dish  four  or  five  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
oyster  liquor;  add  salt,  white  pepper,  and  a  tablespoonf  id  of 
butter,  and  stir  till  it  is  scalding  hot.  Drop  the  oysters  in,  a 
dozen  at  a  time,  and  cook  till  they  are  plump  and  tender;  then 
skim  out  and  place  on  slices  of  hot  buttered  toast ;  add  more 
oysters  as  required. 

phau 

One  half  pint  of  rice;  one  pint  of  stock;  one  half  can  of 
tomato.  Soak  the  rice  in  cold  water  for  an  hour.  Pour  off  the 
water,  and  put  the  rice,  with  the  stock  and  one  quarter  of  a  white 
onion,  in  a  double  boiler.     Stew  till  the  rice  absorbs  the  stock. 

Stew  the  tomato  thoroughly,  and  season  with  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper.    Mix  it  with  the  rice. 

Saut6  in  butter  to  a  light  color  jointed  chicken,  slightly 
parboiled,  or  slices  of  cold  cooked  chicken  or  turkey.  Make 
a  hole  in  the  rice  and  tomato,  put  in  the  chicken  and  an  ounce 
of  butter,  and  stew  all  together  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve 
on  a  platter  in  a  smooth  mound,  the  red  rice  surrounding  the 
fowl. 

SPICED  SHAD 

Scale  the  fish,  cut  off  the  heads  and  tails,  and  divide  them 
into  four  pieces. 

Chop  four  or  five  small  onions,  and  sprinkle  a  layer  on  the 
bottom  of  a  stone  jar;  on  this  place  a  layer  of  fish,  packing 


284  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

closely.  Spice  with  black  and  cayenne  pepper,  cloves,  allspice, 
whole  peppers,  and  a  little  more  onion.  Then  add  another 
layer  of  fish,  and  so  on  till  the  jar  is  full.  Arrange  the  roe  on 
top,  spice  highly,  and  fill  the  jar  with  the  strongest  vine- 
gar procurable.  Place  thick  folds  of  paper  on  the  jar  under 
the  cover,  and  bake  for  twelve  hours.  The  yinegar  will  dis- 
solve the  bones,  and  the  fish  can  be  sliced  for  a  teartable  relish. 

FOEE  AND  BEANS 

NEW  HAMPSHIKE 

Soak  a  pint  of  small  white  beans  over  night. 

In  the  morning  pour  off  the  water,  pour  on  a  pint  of  cold 
water,  and  set  at  the  back  of  the  range  to  simmer  slowly  for 
three  quarters  of  an  hour. 

Place  the  beans  in  a  bean-pot  with  half  a  pound  of  scored 
salt  pork  in  the  middle,  half  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  dry  mustard,  salt, 
white  pepper,  and  a  half  pint  of  white  sugar.  Add  water  from 
time  to  time,  as  it  grows  dry,  and  bake  twelve  hours. 

A  EECHAUTFE  OF  COLD  MUTTON 

Have  the  mutton  cut  very  neatly  and  carefully  into  slices. 

Add  to  a  half  pint  of  gravy  or  stock  a  little  white  pepper,  a 
quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  dry  mustard,  a  quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  curry  powder,  and  three  large  tablespoonfuls  of 
currant  jelly.  When  this  is  scalding  hot,  add  a  glass  of  sherry. 
Have  ready  a  hot  platter  with  slices  of  toast.  Put  the  sliced 
mutton  into  the  sauce  long  enough  to  heat  through,  but  not  to 
cook  for  a  moment.  Take  the  slices  out  with  a  fork,  and  place 
them  on  the  toast ;  last  of  all  pour  the  boiling  gravy  over  aU, 
and  serve  instantly.  This  preparation  will  be  found  delicious — 
it  robs  the  second-day-of-the-mutton  of  its  terrors. 

COBNED  BEEF 

If  a  round  of  corned  beef  is  to  be  eaten  cold,  as  is  often  the 
case,  it  should  be  carefully  and  slowly  boiled,  and  left  in  the  pot 
till  the  next  day.     The  soaking  in  the  water  in  which  it  has 


NEW  ENGLAND  RECEIPTS  236 

been  boiled  has  the  effect  of  maJdng  the  beef  delightfully  delicate 
and  tender,  and  a  little  less  salt  in  its  flavor.  No  one  who  has 
tried  this  method  "will  be  content  with  any  other. 

If  the  beef  is  to  be  served  hot,  what  is  left  can  be  reheated, 
and  left  to  cool  for  the  next  day's  use  in  the  liquor. 

A  BEEFSTEAK  PIE 

CONNECTICUT 

Three  pounds  of  lean  rump  steak  cut  thick.  Cut  it  into 
strips  three  inches  long,  and  an  inch  wide.  Put  it  to  stew  in 
enough  boiling  water  to  not  quite  cover  the  meat,  and  simmer 
very  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley 
chopped  fine,  a  large  teaspoonful  of  sweet  thyme,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  sliced 
onions.  Stew  together  tiU  the  meat  is  perfectly  tender.  Rub 
smooth  a  tablespoonful  of  corn  starch,  and  stir  it  with  the  gravy 
until  it  becomes  of  the  consistency  of  cream;  add  a  little  salt 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  "Worcestershire  sauce.  Place  the  meat 
in  a  deep  pudding-dish  with  alternate  layers  of  cold  ham  sliced 
thin  and  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs — seven  or  eight  eggs  will  be 
required.  Add  a  little  grated  nutmeg;  cover  with  paste,  and 
bake  half  an  hour. 

EAST  CmCEEN  SALAD 

Take  a  two-pound  can  of  Richardson  &  Robbins's  compressed 
chicken ;  remove  the  skin,  and  cut  the  chicken  into  small  dice. 

Add  twice  as  much  celery  cut  into  small  pieces,  salt  to  taste, 
and  marinate  the  whole  with  a  mixture  of  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar  to  nine  of  oil.  Have  it  very  cold,  and  just  before 
serving  pour  over  it  a  Mayonnaise  made  by  the  following 
receipt.     This  quantity  is  enough  for  twenty-five  persons. 

CREAM  DRESSnrG 

Rub  together  in  a  china  bowl  a  large  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
half  teaspoonful  of  dry  mustard. 


236  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Place  tiie  bowl  in  a  saucepan  full  of  boiling  water  over  a 
spirit  lamp,  or  on  the  range.  Stir  the  mixture  carefully  till 
very  hot,  to  prevent  the  butter  from  oUing.  "When  hot  add  two 
well-beaten  eggs;  stir  till  thick,  then  pour  in  a  half  pint  of 
cream,  stir,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  allow  it  to  get  perfectly 
cold. 

Cold  sweet-breads  are  excellent  served  with  this  cream  May- 
onnaise. 

MACARONI  1  L'ALBI 

Break  a  dozen  stems  of  large  macaroni  into  pieces  four 
inches  long,  and  stew  carefully,  till  tender,  in  consomme  or  white 
soup  stock. 

Place  in  a  dish  layers  of  the  macaroni  sprinkled  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  of  Gruy^re  cheese  grated  fine.  Cover  the  top  with  a 
thick  layer  of  grated  cheese,  on  that  a  layer  of  fine  bread- 
crumbs, and  on  that  bits  of  butter  cut  fine.  Bake  just  long 
enough  to  brown  the  top  thoroughly. 

COBN  FUDDDTG 

Scrape  with  a  knife  two  dozen  ears  of  green  corn,  cutting 
each  row  through  the  middle.  Add  one  pint  of  milk,  half  a 
pound  of  butter,  three  eggs,  the  whites  and  yolks  beaten  sepa- 
rately, a  little  salt,  and  white  pepper.  Stir  the  yolks  into  the 
milk  and  corn,  pour  into  a  baking-dish,  stir  in  the  whites,  and 
bake  an  hour  and  a  half. 

THDT  INDIAN  BBEAD 

VERMONT 

Mix  together  two  cupfuls  of  meal,  a  tablespoonful  of  lard, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  scald  with  boiling  wat«r.  Thin  it 
with  a  large  cupful  of  cold  milk  and  two  well-beaten  eggs. 
Spread  thin  on  a  large  buttered  pan,  and  bake  till  brown  in  an 
oven  only  moderately  hot. 


NEW  ENGLAND  RECEIPTS  237 

OSAHAM  GEMS 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  pint  of  graham  flour. 

Place  on  top  of  the  range  a  frame  of  "iron-clad"  gem-pans  to 
get  very  hot.  Stir  the  milk  and  meal  together  lightly,  not  try- 
ing to  make  the  batter  very  smooth.  Drop  a  bit  of  butter  into 
each  hot  pan,  and  while  it  sizzles  pour  in  the  batter,  and  in- 
stantly set  in  the  oven;  bake  twenty  minutes.  The  heat  raises 
the  batter  to  lightness,  and  the  butter  gives  a  savory  crust  to 
the  little  cakes. 

COLONIAL  H0E-CAEE8 

CONNECTICUT 

Stir  Indian  meal  and  water  together  into  a  thickish  paste. 
Spread  thickly  on  a  new  wooden  spade,  or  on  the  top  of  a  new 
barrel,  and  set  on  end  before  an  open  fire  to  slowly  toast,  turn- 
ing the  cake  when  the  outer  side  is  brown.  No  preparation  of 
Indian  meal  has  quite  the  flavor  of  this. 

BHODE  ISLAin)  JOHNITT-CAEE 

For  this,  Rhode  Island  meal,  ground  between  stones,  is  re- 
quired. Take  one  pint  of  meal  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  scald  thoroughly  with  boiling  water  till  it  is  a  stiff,  smooth 
batter.  Thin  with  cold  milk  tiU  about  the  consistency  of  sponge- 
cake batter,  and  drop  in  tablespoonfuls  on  a  hot  buttered  grid- 
dle. When  the  under  side  is  brown,  turn  the  cakes  and  brown 
the  other  side.    Eat  with  butter. 

BOSTON  BBOWN  BBEAB 

One  pint  of  yellow  cornmeal,  scalded  with  a  small  quantity  of 
boiling  water,  just  enough  to  wet  it  thoroughly.  Let  it  stand 
ten  minutes.  Then  add  enough  cold  water  to  make  a  soft  bat- 
ter. Add  one  quarter  pint  of  brewer's  yeast,  one  quarter  pint  of 
molasses,  one  pint  of  rye  meal,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
one  saltspoonful  of  soda.    Beat  it  well  together,  and  set  it  to 


238  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

rise  over  night.  When  light,  stir  it  thoroughly,  put  it  into  a 
buttered  tin,  sprinkle  a  little  flour  over  the  top,  and  set  it  to 
rise  again.  Bake  about  two  hours.  It  is  exceUent  cut  into 
slices  and  toasted. 

DABS 

CONNECTICUT 

A  pint  of  cornmeal,  thoroughly  scalded  with  hot  water.  Rub 
into  it  a  dessertspoonful  of  butter,  two  eggs  beaten  very  light,  a 
wineglassful  of  cream  or  milk,  and  a  little  salt.  Butter  a  tin 
pan,  and  drop  the  mixture  from  a  spoon  upon  it.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

CREAM  OATMEAL 

BoU  oatmeal  for  an  hour  as  for  breakfast  use.  Rub  it 
through  a  fine  sieve,  add  a  little  milk,  and  cook  it  very  slowly 
in  a  double  boUer  for  half  an  hour  longer.  When  perfectly 
smooth,  add  a  little  salt  and  cream. 

This  is  the  most  delicate  preparation  of  oatmeal  that  an  inva- 
lid can  take. 

ZEPHYES 

Prepare  a  thin  mush  of  Indian  meal,  water,  and  salt,  and  boil 
till  smooth.  Drop  this  batter  into  iron-clad  pans,  made  very  hot 
and  buttered,  and  bake  till  brown. 

SaUASH  PIES 

Pare  and  cut  into  pieces  a  Hubbard  squash,  and  steam  it  till 
thoroughly  soft ;  then  rub  it  through  a  coarse  sieve. 

To  a  quart  of  the  squash,  which  should  be  as  thick  and  dry 
as  chestnuts  when  prepared  for  stuffing,  add  three  quarters  of  a 
pint,  heaping  full,  of  granidated  sugar,  the  peel  and  juice  of  a 
large  lemon,  half  a  nutmeg  grated,  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered 
ginger,  about  as  much  powdered  cinnamon,  a  small  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  six  drops  of  rose-water,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  and  four 
beaten  eggs.  Stir  thoroughly,  and  add  about  three  pints  of 
scalded  milk.  The  mixture  should  be  tasted,  and  a  little  more 
sugar,  or  lemon,  or  spice  added  if  required. 


NEW  ENGLAND  RECEIPTS  239 

Line  a  deep  tin  pie-dish  with  paste,  lay  a  narrow  strip  around 
the  edge,  and  fill  the  dish  with  the  mixture.  Bake  till  the  fill- 
ing is  set.    This  quantity  will  make  four  pies. 

FUlCFKUr  PIES  (About  Four  Founds) 

MASSACHUSETTS 

Pare  a  small  pumpkin,  about  four  pounds,  and  take  out  the 
seeds.    Steam  till  soft,  and  strain  through  a  colander. 

Beat  in  three  eggs,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  ground  cinnamon,  one  of  ginger,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  two  quarts  of  hot  milk.  If  more  sweet- 
ening is  needed  add  a  little  sugar.  Bake  with  an  under  crust 
only.    This  receipt  will  make  five  pies. 

EASY  PIE-CRUST 

Three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  lard,  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of 
butter,  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  iced  water  with  a  teaspoonf  ul 
of  salt  dissolved  in  it,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  flour  sifted  twice 
through  a  fine  sieve. 

Put  the  lard  and  flour  into  a  bowl  (leaving  out  a  little  flour 
for  rolling),  and  very  lightly  rub  them  together  with  the  tips  of 
your  fingers.  Pour  in  the  salted  water,  and  stir  with  a  knife 
till  the  flour  and  lard  are  well  mixed.  Pour  out  onto  the  paste- 
board (over  which  a  very  little  flour  should  be  sifted),  and  beat 
the  mixture  with  a  rolling  pin,  doubling  and  folding,  and  put- 
ting the  dry  particles  in  the  middle,  tiU  the  whole  becomes  a 
smooth,  firm  paste. 

Roll  this  into  a  narrow  oblong,  as  far  as  possible  rolling  from 
you.  Divide  the  butter,  which  should  be  \ery  cold  and  hard, 
into  three  parts,  and  put  one  third  on  the  paste  with  a  knife, 
cutting  it  into  little  bits.  Fold  the  sheet  of  paste  over  into  a 
roll,  and  again  roll  out  into  an  oblong.  Add  the  second  third 
of  butter  in  the  same  way.  Roll  once  more,  put  on  the  last 
third  of  butter,  again  fold  into  a  roll,  and  cut  the  paste  in  two, 
putting  one  half  on  top  of  the  other  half. 


240  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Cut  portions  off  from  the  end  of  the  double  roll,  and  with 
them  line  the  pie  dishes,  rolling  them  very  thin.  This  quantity 
of  paste  will  make  four  or  five  pies.  Care  should  be  taken  not 
to  increase  the  quantity  of  flour.  The  pie-crust  will  be  found 
tender  and  delicate,  though  not  so  elegant  as  puff-paste;  and  to 
make  it  ready  for  use  in  the  pie-dishes  should  not  take  more 
than  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

A  BOILED  DTDIAir  FUDDOTa 

CONNECTICUT 

One  quart  of  milk. 

One  pint  of  meal. 

Five  tablespoonfuls  of  West  India  molasses. 

Two  tablespoonfuls  of  suet  chopped  fine. 

Scald  the  milk,  and  pour  it  over  the  meal ;  add  the  other  in- 
gredients. Put  the  pudding  into  a  mold  or  bag,  and  boU  four 
hours. 

Hot  maple  molasses  and  butter  are  eaten  with  this  pudding. 


A  BAKED  DTDIAN  PUDDIHQ 

Three  and  a  half  quarts  of  sweet  milk. 

Three  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  cornmeal. 

One  half  pint  of  molasses. 

One  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt. 

Ginger  to  taste. 

Boil  one  quart  of  the  milk;  add  to  it  molasses,  butter,  salt, 
and  spice,  and  lastly  the  meal  stirred  smooth  with  a  little  cold 
milk;  scald  the  whole  together,  and  turn  into  a  well-buttered 
baking-dish.  When  it  begins  to  crust  over,  stir  it  all  up  from 
the  bottom,  and  add  a  pint  of  cold  milk.  Repeat  the  process 
every  half  hour,  or  oftener  if  the  pudding  browns  too  fast,  till 
the  five  pints  are  used;  then  let  it  bake  till  done — six  hours 
in  all.  Serve  hot  with  a  sauce  of  grated  or  granulated  maple 
sugar  stirred  into  rich  cream,  and  kept  very  cold  till  needed. 


NEW  ENGLAND  RECEIPTS  241 

OBANGE  INDIAir  PUDDING 

CONNECTICUT 

Put  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  Indian  meal  in  a  bowl, 
and  mix  in  half  a  pint  of  molasses  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Boil  three  pints  of  milk;  pour  it  scalding  hot  on  the  meal,  stii*- 
ring  carefully  tiU  perfectly  smooth  and  free  from  lumps.  But- 
ter a  deep  pudding-dish;  cover  the  bottom  thickly  with  frag- 
ments of  dried  orange-peel;  pour  in  the  mixture,  and,  last  of  all, 
pour  gently  over  the  top  a  tumblerful  of  cold  mUk.  Bake 
four  hours  and  a  half  in  a  hot  oven.    Eat  with  thick  cream. 

BLUEBERRT  PUDDING 

RHODE  ISLAND 

Line  a  deep  pudding-dish  with  slices  of  buttered  bread.  FiU 
this  with  alternate  layers  of  whortleberries  or  blueberries,  and 
granulated  sugar.  Squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over  the 
whole.  Cover  the  top  with  slices  of  bread  buttered  on  both 
sides.  Place  a  plate  over  the  dish,  and  bake  for  an  hour  and 
a  half,  setting  the  dish  in  a  pan  of  hot  water. 

Take  the  pudding  from  the  oven,  -spread  over  the  top  a 
meringue  of  white  of  egg  beaten  lightly  with  sugar  in  the  propor- 
tion of  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  sugar  to  one  egg,  and  return  it  to  the 
oven  just  long  enough  to  lightly  brown  the  meringue.  The 
pudding  should  be  eaten  hot  with  hard  wine  sauce. 

A  PEACH  PUDDING 

Line  the  bottom  of  a  deep  pudding-dish  with  thick  slices  of 
stale  sponge  cake  soaked  in  sherry.  Fill  the  dish  with  fresh 
peaches,  sliced,  and  well  sprinkled  with  sugar.  Spread  over 
the  top  a  meringue  similar  to  that  described  for  whortleberry 
pudding,  and  leave  it  in  the  oven  just  long  enough  to  brown. 

Set  the  dish  on  the  ice,  and  serve  very  cold.  It  is  eaten  with 
cream. 

CHEERY  BREAD 

FiU  a  deep  pudding-dish  with  alternate  layers  of  buttered 
bread  and  sour  cherries,  stoned,  and  stewed  with  sugar. 

16 


24S  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Pack  the  dish  in  ice,  and  half  freeze  the  mixture,  which  will 
become  a  semi- jelly.    It  is  eaten  with  thick  cream. 

LEMON  EICE  PUDDING 

Boil  a  half  pint  of  rice  in  a  quart  of  milk  till  very  soft.  Add 
to  it  while  hot  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  three  large  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sugar,  the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  and  a  little  salt. 
K  too  thick,  add  a  little  cold  milk.  It  should  be  a  little  thicker 
than  a  boiled  custard.     Turn  it  into  a  pudding-dish. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  very  stiff  with  eight  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  the  two  lemons,  and  brown  the 
top  dehcately  in  the  oven.     Set  on  ice  and  eat  very  cold. 

BERMUDA  PUDDING 

Weigh  two  eggs,  and  allow  the  same  weight  in  sugar  and 
flour,  and  the  weight  of  one  egg  in  butter.  Beat  the  butter 
and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth,  and  lastly 
the  flour,  in  which  half  a  teaspoonful  of  Royal  Baking  Powder 
has  been  mixed.  Stir  till  perfectly  smooth ;  then  add  a  heaping 
tablespoonf  ul  of  orange  marmalade ;  pour  into  a  buttered  mold ; 
cover  with  buttered  paper,  and  steam  gently  for  an  hour  and  a 
half.    Serve  with  wine  sauce. 

BICE  AND  ORANGE-MAEMALADE  PUDDING 

Simmer  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  rice  in  a  quart  of  milk  till  it  is 
very  soft  and  thick.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sugar,  a  little  cream,  and  let  all  cool  together  a  few  min- 
utes.    Pour  into  a  pudding-dish  and  bake  till  set. 

Spread  over  the  pudding  a  thick  layer  of  orange  marmalade, 
and  over  that  a  meringue,  and  return  to  the  oven  till  the  top  is 
lightly  browned.    Serve  it  cold. 

MOLASSES  PIE 

This  is  a  genuine  New  England  dainty,  dear  to  the  hearts  of 
children.    Mix  half  a  pint  of  the  best  molasses  with  a  table- 


NEW  ENGLAND  RECEIPTS  243 

spoonful  of  floui',  and  add  the  juice  of  a  large  lemon,  and  the 
rind  and  pulp  chopped  fine.  Bake  with  an  under  and  an  upper 
crust. 

PEUNE  JELLY,   WITH  ALMONDS 

One  pound  of  prunes.  One  half  box  of  Coxe's  gelatine.  Soak 
the  prunes  over  night,  and  stew  till  tender  in  the  water  in  which 
they  have  soaked.    Remove  the  stones,  and  sweeten  to  taste. 

Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  little  hot  water,  and  add  to  the 
prunes  while  hot.  Lastly,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  blanched  almonds.  Pour  the  jelly  into  molds 
and  set  it  on  the  ice  to  harden.    Eat  with  cream. 

CLARIFIED  APPLES 

Melt  two  cupfuls  of  crushed  sugar  over  the  fire,  adding  a  lit- 
tle water  to  keep  it  from  burning,  and  dropping  in  a  few  bits 
of  lemon-peel. 

Pare  eight  large  greening  apples,  and  slice  them  very  thin. 
Have  a  saucepan  full  of  boiling  water  ready,  and  into  this  put 
the  apples  and  let  them  cook  till  they  are  parboiled,  but  not 
soft  enough  to  break.  Skim  them  out,  and  drop  them  into  the 
boiling  syrup,  shaking  them  continually  over  a  slow  fire  till 
they  are  done.  K  properly  prepared  the  slices  will  be  almost 
transparent. 

LEMON  ICE 

One  quart  of  mUk.  One  tumblerful  of  sugar.  Mix  the  two, 
and  half  freeze  in  an  ice  cream  freezer.  Then  add  the  juice  and 
pulp  of  four  large  lemons ;  stir  thoroughly,  and  freeze  firm. 
This  is  the  simplest  and  cheapest  of  frozen  preparations,  and 
for  use  in  the  country,  where  materials  are  hard  to  come  by,  it 
is  invaluable. 

APPLE  SAUCE 

Pare,  core,  and  quarter  enough  Baldwin  or  greening  apples 
to  fill  a  small  stoneware  jar.  Add  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of 
sugar  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water ;  cover  tightly.     Set  this 


344  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

in  the  oven  of  the  range  as  soon  as  the  last  meal  of  the  day — 
dinner  or  supper,  as  it  may  be  —  is  served,  and  let  it  remain  till 
breakfast  next  morning.  The  long,  slow  cooking  gives  the  ap- 
ples a  deep  red  color  and  a  flavor  quite  different  from  other 
preparations. 

STEWED  PEABS 

Prick  hai'd  baking  pears  with  a  fork  in  half  a  dozen  places, 
and  with  them  fill  a  small  stoneware  jar.  Add  half  a  pint  of 
sugar,  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  a  heaping  teaspoonf  ul  of  mo- 
lasses.   Cover  tightly,  and  bake  all  night  as  directed  above. 

CRANBERRY  JELLT 

Stew  four  quarts  of  cranberries  in  a  porcelain  kettle  with 
water  enough  to  float  them,  till  they  are  thoroughly  soft  and 
broken.  Rub  them  through  a  coarse  sieve.  Allow  to  each  pint 
of  the  marmalade-like  mixture  resulting  a  pound  of  sugar. 
Put  the  fruit  on  the  fire  till  it  boils  hard.  Stir  in  the  sugar, 
and  as  soon  as  it  jellies,  which  will  be  in  a  few  minutes,  re- 
move from  the  fire  and  pour  into  glasses.  The  advantage  of 
this  preparation  of  cranberries  is  that  it  keeps  perfectly  for  six 
weeks  or  two  months,  losing  nothing  in  quality  or  flavor  during 
the  time. 

HARTFORD  ELECTION  CAKE 

4i  pounds  of  flour.  ^  ounce  of  mace. 

2J  pounds  of  sugar.  A    cupful   of    brandy   and 

2^  pounds  of  butter.  sherry  mixed. 

^  ounce  of  nutmeg.  2  pounds  of  raisins. 

i  pound  of  sliced  citron.  4  eggs. 

At  noon,  or  early  in  the  afternoon,  begin  making  this  cake. 
Cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  a  quart  of  lukewarm  milk,  half 
of  the  floui',  and  either  a  half  pint  of  brewer's  yeast  or  a  cake 
and  a  half  of  compressed  yeast.  Beat  the  mixture  well,  cover 
the  pan  with  a  thick  towel,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise. 

At  night,  when  it  is  very  liglit,  add  the  flour,  spices,  and 
eggs.    Set  the  pan  in  a  moderately  warm  place  for  a  second 


NEW  ENGLAND  RECEIPTS  245 

rising.  Early  next  morning  add  the  fruit,  the  wine,  the  grated 
peel  of  a  lemon,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  extract  of  rose.  Pour 
into  pans  lined  with  buttered  paper.  Let  them  stand  an  hour 
or  until  light.  This  receipt  makes  seven  loaves,  which  require 
to  bake  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half,  according  to  oven. 
A  half  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water, 
and  stirred  into  the  batter  just  before  it  is  put  into  the  pans,  is 
an  improvement. 

mSTAKTANEOUS  FBOSTDTO 

To  the  white  of  an  unbeaten  egg  add  a  cupful  and  a  quarter 
of  pulverized  sugar,  and  stir  until  smooth.  Add  three  drops  of 
rose-water,  ten  of  vanilla,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  It  will 
at  once  become  very  white,  and  will  harden  in  five  or  six 
minutes. 


Chapter  IX 

Part  I 

DISTINCTIVELY  SOUTHERN  DISHES 

The  dishes  in  which  the  South  excel,  and  which 
may  be  called  distinctive  to  that  section,  are  those 
made  of  corumeal,  of  gumbo  or  okra,  and  those  sea- 
The  soned  with  sassafras  powder  or  twicrs.  The  cornmeal 
used  m  the  South  is  white  and  coarse-grained  (it  is 
called  there  water-ground),  and  gives  quite  a  different 
result  from  that  which  is  finer  in  grain  and  yellow  in 
color,  which  is  usually  sold  at  the  North.  The  hoe 
used  for  baking  corn-cakes  is  an  article  made  for  the 
The  Hoe.  purpose,  and  not  the  garden  implement  usually  asso- 
ciated with  the  name. 

PONE 

Sift  a  quart  of  white  cornmeal,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  pour 
on  enough  cold  water  to  make  a  mixture  which  will  squeeze  ea- 
sily through  the  fingers.  "Work  it  to  a  soft  dough.  Mold  it  into 
oblong  cakes  an  inch  thick  at  the  ends,  and  a  little  thicker  in 
the  center.  Slap  them  down  on  the  pan,  and  press  them  a  lit- 
tle. These  cakes,  they  say,  must  show  the  marks  of  the  fingers. 
The  pan  must  be  hot,  and  sprinkled  with  the  bran  sifted  fi'om 
the  meal.    Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  about  twenty  minutes. 

HOE-CAKE  No.   1 

Make  the  same  mixture  as  for  pone.  Spread  it  on  the 
greased  hoe,  or  a  griddle,  making  a  round  cake  one  quarter  inch 
thick.  Bake  it  on  the  top  of  the  range,  turning  and  baking  it 
brown  on  both  sides. 

24« 


DISTINCTIVELY  SOUTHEEN  DISHES  247 

HOE-CAKE  No.  2 

Use  for  these  cakes,  if  possible,  coarse  water-ground  white 
meal.  Add  to  a  quart  of  meal  a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  pour  over 
it  enough  boiling  water  to  make  it  a  soft  dough;  add  also  a 
little  milk  to  make  it  brown  better.  Let  it  stand  an  hour  or 
longer,  then  work  it  together  with  the  hand.  Form  it  into  lit- 
tle cakes  an  inch  thick,  and  bake  on  a  greased  griddle  till 
browned  on  both  sides.  Serve  very  hot.  They  are  split  and 
spread  with  butter  when  eaten. 

KENTUGET  CORN  DODGERS 

Mix  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  with  a  cupful  of  white  commeal. 
Scald  it  with  just  enough  boiling  water  to  dampen  it;  then  add 
enough  cold  milk  to  enable  you  to  mold  it.  Stir  it  well  to- 
gether, and  form  it  into  cakes  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick 
in  the  middle  and  oblong  in  shape.  Use  a  tablespoonful  of 
dough  for  each  cake.  Bake  them  on  a  greased  pan  in  a  hot 
oven  for  twenty-five  minutes. 

MARYLAND  BEATEN  BISCUIT 

Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  tablespoonful  of  butter  to  a 
quart  of  flour.  Rub  them  together,  then  add  a  cupful  of  milk, 
and,  if  necessary,  a  little  water,  making  a  stiff  dough.  Place 
the  dough  on  a  firm  table  or  block,  and  beat  it  with  a  mallet  or 
rolling-pin  for  fully  half  an  hour,  or  until  it  becomes  brittle. 
Spread  it  half  an  inch  thick ;  cut  it  into  small  circles,  and  prick 
each  one  with  a  fork.  Bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  about  twenty 
minutes. 

SOFT  CORN-BREAD 

Mix  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  with  two  cupfuls  of  hot  boiled 
hominy  or  of  rice ;  add  two  or  three  well-beaten  eggs,  and  then 
add  slowly  two  cupfuls  of  milk,  and  lastly  a  cupful  of  white 
cornmeal  and  a  dash  of  salt.  Turn  the  mixture,  which  should 
be  of  the  consistency  of  pancake  batter,  into  a  deep  dish,  and 


248  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

bake  about  an  hour.    Serve  it  with  a  spoon  from  the  same  dish 

in  which  it  is  baked. 

SOXTTHERN  WAY  OF  COOKING  RICE 

Wash  the  rice  thoroughly  through  several  waters,  using  the 
hand.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  water  and  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  to  each  cupful  of  rice.  Let  it  boH  covered  until 
the  water  has  boiled  away  5  then  draw  it  to  the  side  of  the 
range,  open  the  cover  a  little,  and  let  it  steam  until  thoroughly 
dry.  Do  not  touch  the  rice  while  it  is  cooking.  This  receipt 
is  furnished  by  a  Southern  negro  cook. 

OUMBO  FILE 

(a  new  ORLEANS  DISH) 

50  oysters.  2  onions. 

1  fowl  cut  into  pieces.  ^  teaspoonf ul  of  salt. 

J  pound  of  veal  cut  into  pieces.  J  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

J  pound  of  ham  cut  into  pieces.  ^  teaspoonful  of  powdered  thyme. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato.      J  teaspoonful  of  marjoram. 

1  tablespoonful  of  drippings.   Dash  of  cayenne. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  sassafras  powder. 

Wash  well  the  outside  of  a  fowl  (see  page  180),  and  cut  it 
into  pieces.  Cut  the  veal  and  the  ham  into  small  pieces,  and 
dredge  aU  of  them  well  with  flour. 

Put  the  onions,  sliced,  into  a  pot  or  large  saucepan  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  fat  or  drippings,  and  fry  until  brown;  then 
add  the  pieces  of  chicken,  veal,  and  ham.  Turn  them  often,  so 
all  will  brown  evenly;  this  will  take  about  twenty  minutes. 
When  the  meat  is  browned,  add  two  quarts  of  hot  water;  cover 
the  pot,  and  let  simmer  for  two  hours.  After  the  first  hour 
add  the  salt,  pepper,  thyme,  marjoram,  and  tomatoes.  At 
the  end  of  two  hours,  if  the  meat  is  tender,  add  the  oysters  and 
the  oyster  juice,  and  let  remain  on  the  fire  only  long  enough 
to  ruffle  the  gills  of  the  oysters.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  sassafras  powder,  and  stir  until  a  little 


DISTINCTIVELY  SOUTHERN  DISHES  249 

thickened  (do  not  add  the  sassafras  until  the  pot  is  removed 
from  the  fire). 

Serve  in  a  meat-dish  with  a  border  of  boiled  rice.  This  is  a 
dish  much  used  in  the  South.  It  may  be  served  as  a  chowder, 
with  the  meat  and  liquor  together,  or  may  be  served  separately, 
using  the  liquor  as  a  soup. 

Powdered  sassafras  leaves  may  be  obtained  at  the  grocer's. 

CHICKEN  GUMBO 

Cut  a  chicken  into  pieces ;  roll  the  pieces  in  flour ;  put  them 
into  a  pot  with  a  few  slices  of  salt  pork  and  one  sliced  onion, 
Saut6  them  a  light  brown;  then  add  four  quarts  of  hot  water, 
and  simmer  it  until  the  chicken  is  nearly  cooked;  then  add  two 
slices  of  boiled  ham,  two  quarts  of  sliced  okra,  one  half  can  of 
tomatoes,  and  one  pod  of  red  pepper.  Continue  to  cook  until 
everything  is  tender.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  just  be- 
fore serving  stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of  sassafras  powder.  If 
sassafras  twigs  can  be  had  they  are  better  than  the  powder, 
and  should  be  added  with  the  vegetables. 

This  is  a  favorite  Southern  dish.  It  resembles  a  chowder, 
and  is  so  hearty  as  to  almost  constitute  a  dinner  in  itself. 

Part  II 
VERY  INEXPENSIVE  DISHES 


living. 


The  following  receipts  are  furnished  by  a  lady  who 
for  many  years  solved  the  problem  of  providing  J?^*"' 
nourishment  for  a  family  of  three  persons  upon  a 
very  small  income.  The  average  expenditure  each 
day  for  three  meals  did  not  exceed  twenty  cents  per 
capita,  or  four  dollars  and  twenty  cents  a  week  for 
the  family;  and  great  care  was  taken  to  secure  for 
this  sum  the  greatest  possible  amount  of  nourish- 
ment. In  families  where  meat  is  not  considered  a  daily 
necessity,  this  price  might  be  further  reduced. 


250  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

It  is,  of  course,  very  much  easier  to  supply  coarse 

qualities  of  food  for  a  low  sum  than  refined  and 

dainty  dishes,  but,  after  all,  it  is  more  a  matter  of  the 

Care       care  given  to  the  preparation  than  of  the  food  itself 

in^king  which  produces  refined  results;  for  instance,  beef, 
cheap  cute  which  is  very  nourishing,  is  least  suited  to  these  re- 

**  ™®*  quirements,  because  the  less  expensive  portions,  which 
often  contain  the  most  nutriment,  cannot  be  served 
as  daintily  as  either  veal  or  mutton  without  a  large 
amount  of  care  and  trouble;  this  it  is  often  difficult 
to  give  personally,  and  almost  impossible  to  secure  in 
a  low-priced  cook.  Still,  it  is  worth  while  for  any 
housekeeper  desirous  of  obtaining  the  maximum  nour- 
ishment at  minimum  cost,  to  try  the  following  receipts 
for  using  the  most  inexpensive  portion  of  beef  that 
can  be  bought,  L  e.,  the  shin,  which  costs  about  eight 
cents  a  pound. 

TO  PBEPABE   SHIN  OF  BEEF 

Take  a  slice  about  one  inch  thick,  cut  toward  the  smaller  end 
of  the  shin,  so  that  the  little  round  bone  in  the  center  is  quite 
small.  This  is  fairly  manageable,  and  can  by  careful  cooking 
be  rendered  as  tender  as  a  sirloin  steak.  Place  the  slice  in  a 
stewpan,  cover  it  with  water,  add  salt,  and  set  it  upon  the  far 
end  of  the  grate  for  three  hours,  never  allowing  it  to  boil.  If 
by  that  time  it  is  fairly  tender,  cover  it  with  vegetables  cut  in 
very  small  dice — carrots,  turnips,  and  one  large  onion;  advance 
the  pot  nearer  to  the  fire,  and  let  it  simmer  another  hour. 
Push  aside  the  vegetables,  take  the  meat  out  carefully,  and  lay 
it  on  the  dish;  pile  the  vegetables  upon  its  center,  then  care- 
fully thicken  the  liquor,  and  if  necessary  brown  it  with  a  drop 
or  two  of  burnt  sugar,  and  pour  this  gravy  over  the  beef, 

ANOTHER  WAY 

Take  about  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  the  thicker  part  of  the 
shin,  place  it  in  an  iron  pot  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  drip- 
pings.   Turn  it  as  it  browns.     When  bro\\Ti  enough  put  it  in  a 


VERY  INEXPENSIVE  DISHES  251 

stew-pan;  add  enough  water  to  cover  it,  a  large  onion  stuck  full 
of  cloves,  and  half  a  carrot  cut  into  slices.  Let  it  simmer  four 
hours,  remove  the  meat  and  onion  and  carrot,  thicken  the 
liquor,  and  serve  in  a  dish  large  enough  to  allow  plenty  of 
gravy.  K,  after  removing  the  meat,  the  liquor  appears  too  rich, 
pour  off  the  fat  before  thickening. 

Round  steak  can  be  used  instead  of  shin  for  both 
these  receipts,  but  costs  just  double  the  price.     It  re-      Bound 
quires  far  less  cooking  and  calls  for  less  care,  and 
if  carefully  and  slowly  stewed  for  one  hour  makes  a 
very  appetizing  dish. 

Another  very  appetizing  dish,  much  used  by  people 
of  small  means  in  England,  is  beefsteak  pudding,  for 
which  it  is  also  possible  to  use  the  shin,  by  stewing  it 
beforehand,  and  cutting  it  up  when  perfectly  tender 
into  small  pieces;  but  it  is  usually  made  of  round 
steak  as  follows: 

BEEFSTEAK  PUDDING 

Line  a  pudding-basin  with  a  plain  crust  made  of  chopped 
suet  and  flour  mixed  with  water,  and  simply  rolled  out  once 
an  inch  thick;  cut  up  a  pound  of  round  steak,  and  sprinkle 
with  floui",  pepper,  and  salt;  chop  a  small  onion  fine,  put  all 
into  the  lined  basin,  add  a  cup  of  water,  cover  over  with  the  suet 
crust,  and  tie  it  in  a  well-floured  cloth.  Have  a  saucepan  full 
of  water  boiling  rapidly,  and  put  the  basin  in,  the  opening  down- 
wards ;  leave  the  lid  off  the  saucepan,  and  let  it  boil  two  and  one 
half  hours,  adding  water  if  it  boils  away.  A  sheep's  kidney 
cut  up  small  adds  richness  to  the  gravy. 

Sometimes,  where  great  economy  must  be  practised, 
and  the  sum  allowed  for  the  entire  meal  for  three 
people  is  only  sixty  cents,  it  is  difficult  to  remember 
just  such  accessories  in  the  way  of  vegetables  as  are  Menus, 
as  inexpensive  in  their  way  as  the  meat,  and  for  this 
reason  the  following  very  modest  menus  are  offered 
as  samples  of  what  can  be  accomplished  in  the  way  of 
very  inexpensive  dinners. 


252  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

DINKEB  No.  1 

POTATO    BALLS,   SCOTCH    BROTH,   TURNIPS    WITH    WHITE    SAUCE, 
TAPIOCA  AND  APPLES 

This  is  an  excellent  winter  dinner. 

Scotch  Broth. —  Buy  for  four  persons  one  pound  or  one  and  a 
quarter  pounds  of  scrag  of  mutton ;  chop  it  into  pieces,  and  put 
it  into  an  iron  pot  with  one  quart  of  water,  one  large  onion  cut 
into  slices,  and  a  small  cupful  of  pearl  barley.  Let  it  simmer 
for  two  hours,  adding  a  little  water  if  it  becomes  too  thick. 
Serve  boiling  hot  with  the  mutton  in  it. 
.  This  is  very  inexpensive.  The  scrag  of  mutton  costs  from 
eight  to  ten  cents ;  the  barley  is  eight  cents  a  pound — about  two 
cents'  worth  is  sufficient ;  the  onion  may  be  reckoned  as  one 
cent.  It  can  be  made  a  little  more  costly  by  buying  what  is 
called  the  best  end  of  the  neck.  Six  or  eight  chops  would 
weigh  the  pound  and  a  quarter  required,  and  would  cost  per- 
haps twelve  to  fourteen  cents.  The  chops  look  somewhat  bet- 
ter than  the  chopped-up  scrag,  but  the  nourishing  quality  is  as 
good  in  the  latter. 

Potato  Balls. — Choose  large  potatoes,  and  with  a  scoop  cut 
out  small  balls;  boil  these  and  serve  them  sprinkled  with 
chopped  parsley. 

Turnips. — Cut  into  small  dice,  boil  until  tender,  throw  away 
the  water,  and  serve  with  a  white  sauce  made  of  milk,  flour, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  butter.  Two  turnips  are  sufficient  for  a 
dish. 

Tapioca  and  Apples. — Apples  are  cheap  early  in  the  winter. 
Three  or  four  at  a  cent  apiece  should  be  pared  and  cored,  and 
placed  in  a  low  baking-dish  with  two  dessertspoonfuls  of 
tapioca,  and  enough  water  to  cover  the  whole.  Bake  in  a  slow 
oven.  By  soaking  the  tapioca  over  night  a  less  quantity  wiU  do, 
say,  one  and  a  quarter  spoonfuls. 

N.  B. — Both  sago  and  tapioca  are  very  economical  because, 
when  soaked  over  night,  they  swell  greatly,  and  they  can  both 
be  cooked  with  water,  instead  of  milk,  with  good  results. 


VKKY  INEXPENSIVE  DISHES  3&3 

DDTNEB  Ko.  2 

STUFFED   POTATOES,  VEAL    WITH  WHITE   SAUCE,  PURIFIED   CAB- 
BAGE, RENNET  CUSTARD 

Buy  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  leg  of  veal  at  ten  cents  a 
pound ;  cut  the  meat  into  dice,  and  place  it  in  a  stew-pan  with  a 
piece  of  mace  and  a  pint  of  milk.  Place  it  back  of  the  fire  so 
that  it  will  not  burn,  and  thicken  it  before  serving  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour. 

Stuffed  Potatoes. — Bake  four  large  potatoes  until  nearly  done ; 
then  cut  in  half,  remove  the  insides,  beat  them  up  with  milk,  re- 
place in  the  skins,  and  serve  in  a  pyramid. 

Purified  Cabbage. — Cut  a  cabbage  into  thin  strips  as  if  for 
salad ;  boil  it  in  salted  water,  but  every  time  the  water  comes  to 
the  boiling  point  throw  it  away  for  three  successive  times; 
after  the  third  boiling  use  milk  instead  of  water,  and  add  a  little 
nutmeg.  If  nicely  cooked  in  this  way,  cabbage  is  as  palatable 
and  as  digestible  as  cauliflower. 


DINNEB  No.  3 

STEWED    CARROTS,  CHOPS    WITH    PARSLEY    SAUCE,  CREAM  POTA- 
TOES, APPLE  DUMPLINGS 

Chops  cut  from  the  shoulder  of  mutton  are  cheaper  than 
either  neck  or  loin  chops,  and  are  as  good,  perhaps  better,  for 
boiling.  Put  the  chops  on  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover  them ; 
let  them  simmer  for  half  an  hour,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time 
come  just  to  a  boil ;  pour  off  the  liquor  into  the  stock-pot,  and 
lay  the  chops  on  a  hot  dish;  make  some  white  sauce  of  one 
ounce  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  a  cup  of  milk ;  add 
chopped  parsley,  and  pour  over  the  chops. 

To  stew  carrots  cut  them  in  very  thin  rounds,  lay  them  in  a 
stew-pan  with  enough  water  to  more  than  cover.  Let  them  boil 
tiU  tender,  about  one  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  thicken  the 
liquor  with  flour,  and  add  a  tiny  bit  of  butter. 


254  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

DINNER  No.  4 

BOILED  ONIONS,   CURRY,  RICE,  STEWED  PRUNES 

Curry  can  be  made  of  a  variety  of  materials.  The  best  for 
the  purpose  are  the  white  meats,  veal,  pork,  or  chicken  ;  and  al- 
though curried  cooked  meat  is  a  satisfactory  substitute  for 
hash,  it  is  not  on  the  whole  commendable.  The  Indian  receipt 
for  ordinary  curry  is  as  follows : 

Cut  the  fowl  or  meat  into  joints  or  fair-sized  pieces  j  dip  each 
piece  in  curry  powder,  or  sprinkle  freely  with  it ;  cut  up  a 
lai'ge  onion,  and  have  a  clove  of  garlic.  Put  all  together  in  a 
frying-pan,  the  bottom  of  which  is  covered  with  melted  butter 
(drippings  or  lard  will  do)  j  fry  until  thoroughly  brown,  tui'ning 
continually.  When  brown,  remove  meat  into  a  stew-pan  j  make 
a  gravy  with  flour  and  water  (or  stock)  in  the  frying-pan  from 
which  the  meat  was  taken ;  strain  it  over  the  meat,  and  then  add 
a  few  drops  of  lemon,  or  a  little  Worcester  sauce  —  and  set  the 
stew-pan  on  the  side  of  the  stove  and  let  it  simmer  for  two  hours. 
The  meat  should  be  so  tender  that  it  can  be  readily  separated  by 
a  fork.  A  knife  should  never  be  used.  Eggs  make  a  delicious 
curry.  Boil  them  hard,  shell,  and  cut  in  halves;  make  a  curry  gravy 
as  above,  and  pour  over  them.  Serve  with  rice  around  the  dish. 

Bice. — The  proper  way  to  serve  rice  with  curry  is  perfectly 
dry,  and  this  is  best  secured  by  throwing  a  cupful  (for  an 
ordinary  dish)  into  water  which  is  already  boiling  hard.  Let  it 
continue  to  boil  rapidly  until  the  water  has  aU  boiled  away, 
leaving  the  lid  off.  The  rice  will  then  be  almost  tender,  and  by 
removing  to  the  side  of  the  stove  the  evaporation  will  continue, 
and  the  rice  drying  off  will  be  easily  separable  grain  from  grain, 
which  is  the  proper  way.  The  success  of  this  method  depends 
upon  having  plenty  of  water  in  the  first  instance. 

Madras  curry  is  differently  made,  and  is  served  dry.  For  it, 
proceed  as  for  the  other  curry  by  frying  aU  the  ingredients  to- 
gether in  butter  or  drippings,  but  when  brown  continue  to  fry 
until  the  meat  is  done ;  then  at  the  last  moment  add  a  sprink- 
ling of  curry  powder,  shake  the  pan,  and  turn  all  the  contents 
onto  a  hot  dish.    Serve  with  rice. 


VERY  INEXPENSIVE  DISHES  255 

DINNER  No.  5 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS,   LIVER  SAUT^,  POTATOES,  RICE  PUDDING 

Calf's  liver  can  be  so  cooked  as  to  be  both  delicate  and  easily 
digested.  The  German  method  is  a  very  good  one.  Remove 
any  outer  skin,  and  cut  the  liver  into  very  thin  slices.  Have  a 
pan  with  salted  boiling  water  and  throw  in  the  liver.  It  will 
require  only  about  five  minutes'  cooking  if  the  slices  are  thin 
enough.  Take  them  out,  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  make  a 
gravy  by  frying  a  cut-up  onion  and  when  brown  pouring  in  the 
liquor  used  to  boil  the  liver,  thickening  with  flour  and  browning 
if  necessary.  Add  at  the  last  moment  one  half  a  large  spoonful 
of  vinegar. 

Liver  balls  may  be  made  by  using  the  liver  left  over,  chopping 
it  very  fine  with  an  onion,  some  sage,  or  thyme  (as  may  be  pre- 
ferred), bread-crumbs  and  a  beaten  egg,  and  frying  in  hot  lard. 

Liver  should  be  accompanied  by  a  green  vegetable,  for  which 
reason  Brussels  sprouts  are  suggested.  They  should  be  cooked 
in  salted  water,  drained,  and  served  with  white  sauce,  flavored 
with  nutmeg. 

DINNER  No.   6 

FRIED    SWEET    POTATOES,  BREAST    OP    MUTTON,    CAPER    SAUCE, 
STRING-BEANS   (TEN  CENTS  A  CAN),  APPLE  PIE 

Breast  of  mutton  is  the  cheapest  of  all  mutton,  and  being 
very  fat,  is  considered  unprofitable,  but  by  care  it  can  be  made 
both  palatable  and  economical.  Buy  about  three  pounds  of 
breast ;  place  it  in  a  pan  over  a  slow  fire  until  a  good  deal  of  the 
fat  has  melted,  but  avoid  letting  it  brown ;  pour  away  the  fat  as 
it  melts,  and  when  fairly  free  of  it  place  the  meat  in  a  stew-pan 
with  an  onion  cut  up,  and  enough  water  to  cover  it,  and  a  httle 
thyme.  Let  it  cook  very  slowly,  only  simmering  for  two  hours  ; 
then  lay  on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  caper  sauce  over  it.  If  it  is 
still  fat  skim  often  while  simmering. 

SOME  CHEAP  SOUPS 

Tomato. — Turn  a  can  of  tomatoes  into  a  stew-pan,  and  let 
come  to  a  boil ;  fry  some  bread  in  dice,  place  them  at  the  bot.- 


256  THE  CENTUBY  COOK  BOOK 

torn  of  a  soup  tureen,  and  rub  the  tomatoes  through  a  col- 
ander over  them ;  put  the  pulp  left  in  the  colander  back  into 
the  stewpan;  add  water,  let  it  boil  up,  and  strain  again  into  the 
tureen  J  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  butter,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  serve. 

Carrot. — Boil  half  a  dozen  large  carrots  until  quite  tender; 
then  rub  them  through  a  colander  into  a  saucepan ;  add  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  water  to  the  pulp,  and  boU ;  thicken  with  a  little 
flour,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt. 

Potato. — Boil  half  a  dozen  large  potatoes;  rub  them  through 
a  sieve  (coarse  hair  is  the  best)  into  a  saucepan  in  which  there 
have  been  placed  a  shredded  onion,  some  chopped  parsley,  and 
about  a  cupful  of  milk.  Stir  in  the  potato  pulp,  and  thin  with 
water.     Season  with  pepper  and  salt. 

Bean. —  Soak  some  beans  over  night,  boU  for  one  hour ;  add 
an  onion  when  nearly  soft,  rub  them  through  a  colander  into  a 
tureen  in  which  have  been  already  placed  some  onions  fried  in 
butter  or  lard,  and  add  water  if  too  thick. 

Celery. — Take  the  cast-off  leaves  and  hard  ends  of  a  bunch  of 
celery,  and  let  them  boil  until  perfectly  shredded;  then  strain 
the  water  into  some  thickened  milk,  and  let  it  all  come  to  the 
boiling  point,  but  not  boil.  Season  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt. 
It  is  a  very  good  addition  to  this  soup  to  break  an  e^^  into  the 
tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  upon  it. 

Stock  can  be  used  in  any  of  these  soups  instead  of  water. 


BUTTER  PATS  AND  M0LDP:D  BUTTER.      (SEE   PAGE  258.) 


1.  Shells  made  with  No.  5. 

3.  Small  pats  made  with  No.  6. 


2.  Balls  made  with  No.  7. 
4.  Rolls  made  with  No.  7. 


BREAD-AND-BUTTER  SANDWICHES. 

Made  of  White,  Graham,  and  Boston  Brown  Bread.    (See  page  364.) 


Part  III 

MISCELLANEOUS  EECEIPTS 

STERILIZED   MILE 

The  subject  of  bacteria  in  foods  has  of  late  become  a  matter 
of  careful  scientific  study,  and  the  fact  has  been  established 
that  milk  is  one  of  the  most  subtle  of  disease-carriers.  Hence 
every  careful  mother,  before  giving  it  to  her  children,  subjects 
it  to  the  sterilizing  process,  which  is  simply  raising  it  to  the 
degree  of  heat  which  destroys  the  germs.  It  is  found,  how- 
ever, that  this  does  not  kill  the  spores  or  seeds  of  the  bacilli, 
and  so  the  operation  is  but  a  partially  successful  expedient. 
(To  render  it  really  sterile  requires  heating  several  times  on 
successive  days.)  It  has  also  been  found  that  sterilizing  milk 
robs  it  of  its  antiscorbutic  qualities,  and  that  children  fed  en- 
tirely upon  it  are  subject  to  bleeding  gums  and  other  symptoms 
of  scurvy.  Milk  'should  be  fresh  as  possible,  as  the  longer  it 
stands  the  greater  will  be  the  number  of  bacteria,  and  less  rich 
the  milk  in  the  substances  on  which  they  feed.  The  first  point 
to  emphasize  in  the  simple  process  of  sterilization  is  perfect  clean- 
liness. Rounded  bottles  should  be  used,  as  they  are  easier  to 
clean.  They  should  be  well  rinsed  as  soon  as  emptied,  and  left 
to  soak  in  soda  and  water,  and  before  use  they  should  be  sub- 
jected to  a  good  scrubbing  with  scalding  water  and  a  piece  of 
cloth  tied  onto  a  stick  or  wire.  The  brushes  made  for  cleaning- 
bottles  should  be  avoided,  as  they  are  more  than  likely  to  be  full 
of  germs  themselves.  Turn  the  fresh  milk  into  the  bottles  as 
soon  as  cleaned.  FiU.  them  to  within  an  inch  of  the  top,  and 
stop  them  with  antiseptic  cotton.    The  sterilizing  is  effected  by 

17  267 


258  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

keeping  the  bottles  in  boiling  water  or  in  live  steam  for  at  least 
half  an  hour.  The  water  in  the  boiler  should  be  cold  at  first, 
and  the  heat  raised  gradually.  This,  as  well  as  not  letting  the 
bottles  rest  on  the  bottom  of  the  kettle,  will  prevent  their  break- 
ing. Sterilizers  are  made  which  are  both  cheap  and  convenient, 
but  any  kettle  well  covered  will  answer  the  purpose.  The  time 
for  cooking  should  be  counted  from  the  moment  the  water 
boils.  Let  the  bottles  remain  in  the  water  until  cooled,  and  do 
not  remove  the  stopper  until  the  milk  is  to  be  used. 

DEVONSHIRE  CREAM,  No.! 

(receipt  obtained  in  ENGLAND.) 

Put  a  panful  of  milk  in  a  cold  place  for  twenty-four  hours, 
or  in  summer  for  twelve  hours.  Then  place  it  on  the  fire,  and 
let  it  come  very  slowly  to  the  scalding-point,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil.  Put  it  again  in  a  cool  place  for  six  or  twelve  hours,  and 
then  take  off  the  cream,  which  will  be  firm  and  of  a  peculiarly 
sweet  flavor. 

DEVONSHIRE  CREAM,  No.  2 

Put  the  fresh  milk  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  very  slowly  come  to 
the  scalding-point,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Leave  it  on  the  fire 
for  about  half  an  hour,  then  remove  to  a  cold  place,  and  let  it 
stand  for  six  hours,  or  until  the  cream  has  all  risen, 

Devonshire  cream  is  thick  and  clotted,  and  is  used  on  fruits, 
mush,  etc.  It  will  keep  for  some  time,  and  is  pai-ticularly 
delicious. 

FRESH  BUTTER 

The  French  use  for  table  butter  that  which  is  freshly  made 
and  without  salt.  One  soon  learns  to  prefer  it  to  the  best 
salted  butter.  It  is  very  easy  to  make  fresh  butter,  but  not 
always  easy  to  buy  it,  for  it  keeps  only  a  day  at  its  best,  and 
therefore  the  surest  way  of  having  it  good  is  to  make  it.  Take 
a  half  pint  of  double  cream;  turn  it  into  a  bowl,  and  with  a 
wire  whip  beat  it  until  the  butter  forms.    This  will  take  but  a 


MISCELLANEOUS  EECEIPTS  259 

few  minutes,  if  the  cream  is  of  the  right  temperature  (65°).  (If 
very  cold,  it  will  whip  to  froth  as  it  is  prepared  for  whipped 
cream.)  Turn  off  the  milk ;  add  some  ice  water,  and  work  the 
butter  until  it  is  firm  and  free  from  milk;  then  press  it  into 
pats,  and  keep  it  in  a  tight  jar  on  the  ice  until  ready  to  use. 

This  amount  of  cream,  which  costs  ten  cents,  will,  if  rich, 
give  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter.  Put  some  fresh  grass  or 
some  clover  blossoms  in  the  jar  with  the  butter,  and  it  will 
absorb  their  flavor.    (See  illustration  facing  page  256.) 


TO  MAKE  WHITE  HARD  SOAP 

Save  every  scrap  of  fat  each  day;  try  out  all  that  has  accu- 
mulated, however  small  the  quantity.  This  is  done  by  placing 
the  scraps  in  a  frying-pan  on  the  back  of  the  range.  If  the 
heat  is  low,  and  the  grease  is  not  allowed  to  get  hot  enough  to 
smoke  or  burn,  there  will  be  no  odor  from  it.  Turn  the  melted 
grease  into  lard-pails  and  keep  them  covered.  When  six 
pounds  of  fat  have  been  obtained,  turn  it  into  a  dish-pan ;  add 
a  generous  amount  of  hot  water,  and  stand  it  on  the  range  until 
the  grease  is  entirely  melted.  Stir  it  well  together;  then  stand 
it  aside  to  cool.  This  is  clarifying  the  grease.  The  clean  grease 
will  rise  to  the  top,  and  when  it  has  cooled  can  be  taken  off  in  a 
cake,  and  such  impurities  as  have  not  settled  in  the  water,  can 
be  scraped  off  the  bottom  of  the  cake  of  fat. 

Put  the  clean  grease  into  the  dish-pan  and  melt  it.  Put  a  can 
of  Babbitt's  lye  in  a  lard-pail;  add  to  it  a  quart  of  cold  water, 
and  stir  it  with  a  stick  or  wooden  spoon  until  it  is  dissolved.  It 
will  get  hot  when  the  water  is  added;  let  it  stand  until  it  cools. 
Remove  the  melted  grease  from  the  fire,  and  pour  in  the  lye 
slowly,  stirring  all  the  time.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  am- 
monia. Stir  the  mixture  constantly  for  twenty  minutes  or  half 
an  hour,  or  until  the  soap  begins  to  set. 

Let  it  stand  until  perfectly  hard;  then  cut  it  into  square 
cakes.  This  makes  a  very  good,  white  hard  soap  which  will  float 
on  water.    It  is  very  little  trouble  to  make,  and  will  be  found 


260  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

quite  an  economy  in  a  household.    Six  pounds  of  grease  make 
eight  and  a  half  pounds  of  soap. 

PLOOB  POLISH 

4  ounces  of  beeswax.  Piece  of  resin  size  of 

1  quart  of  turpentine.  hickory  nut. 

Cut  up  the  beeswax  and  pound  the  resin.  Melt  them  toge- 
ther. Take  them  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  a  quart  of  turpentine. 
Rub  very  little  on  the  floor  with  a  piece  of  flannel ;  then  polish 
with  a  dry  flannel  and  a  brush. 


Chaptee  X 
EGaS 

There  is  a  best  way  of  doing  everything,  even  if  it  be  to  boil 
an  egg. — Emerson. 

The  variety  of  purposes  wMch  eggs  serve,  the 
many  ways  of  cooking  them,  their  value  as  a  highly 
concentrated,  nutritious,  and  easily-digested  food, 
make  them  one  of  the  most  useful  articles  of  food. 
To  have  them  fresh  and  rightly  cooked  is  within  the 
power  of  the  simplest  household.  They  hold  the 
principal  place  as  a  breakfast  dish,  and  although 
the  original  methods  of  cooking  them  may  be  limited 
to  boiling,  baking,  poaching,  etc.,  each  one  of  these 
can  be  varied  in  an  indefinite  number  of  ways,  giving 
a  menu  of  eggs  unhmited  in  extent,  and  thus  secur- 
ing always  a  new  way  of  presenting  them,  if  desired. 
Urbain  Dubois  has  recently  published  a  book  giving 
300  ways  of  preparing  eggs.  The  varieties  are  at- 
tained mostly  by  the  sauces  and  garnishings.  It  is 
not  generally  understood  that  sauces  can  be  served 
with  poached,  hard-boUed,  and  scrambled  eggs,  and 
also  with  omelets. 

A  fresh   egg  should  feel  heavy,  sink  in  water,  To  judge  oi 
and  when  held  to  a  bright  light,  show  a  clear  round    froshness 
yolk.    If   old,  a   part   of  the   substance  will   have     preserve 
evaporated  through  the  pores  of  the  shell,  leaving  a      ^^' 
space  filled  with  air,  which  will  cause  it  to  float  on 
water.    It  wiU  also  contain  dark  specks.    To  presei*ve 

261 


/ 


262  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

eggs  it  is  necessary  to  stop  the  pores  of  the  shells 
with  a  coating  of  fat  or  gum  or  wax.  This  will  pre- 
veut  the  air  from  entering  and  decomposing  the  nitro- 
pack.  genous  elements  of  the  egg.  They  should  be  packed 
standing  on  the  small  end,  and  kept  in  a  cool,  dark 
place.  Another  way  of  preserving  them  is  to  immerse 
them  in  a  saturated  solution  of  lime. 

BOILED  EGGS 

Soft-boiled  eggs  should  have  the  albumen  creamy,  not  hard. 
To  obtain  this,  slow  heat  is  required.  Hence  receipt  No.  1  is 
recommended.  No.  2  gives  a  soft  egg,  but  the  time  is  difficult 
to  determine  exactly.  No.  3  gives  satisfactory  results.  To  have 
eggs  hard  boil  them  for  twenty-five  minutes.  The  yolks  will 
then  be  dry  and  mealy.  When  done,  place  them  in  cold  water 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  roll  them  lightly  on  the  table  to  crush 
the  shells,  which  can  then  be  peeled  off  easily,  leaving  the  sur- 
face smooth  and  white.  Use  a  sharp,  thin  knife  for  cutting 
them  so  the  pieces  will  be  clean  and  smooth. 

No.  1 

Place  the  eggs  in  warm  water  to  heat  the  shells  so  they  will 
not  crack  when  put  into  boiling  water.  Let  the  water  in  the 
saucepan  boil  violently ;  put  in  the  eggs  carefully,  and  when 
the  water  again  bubbles,  remove  it  from  the  fire  •  cover  and  let 
the  eggs  remain  in  it  for  five  minutes. 

No.  2 

Put  the  eggs  into  boiling  water  and  cook  for  three  minutes, 
the  water  boiling  all  the  time. 

Ko.  3 

Place  the  eggs  in  cold  water  on  the  fire,  and  remove  as  soon 

as  the  water  boils. 


EGGS  263 

POACHED  EGOS,  ITa  1 

The  white  of  a  poached  egg  should  be  a  white,  translucent, 
jelly-like  mass.  To  obtain  this  result,  which  makes  it  an  easily- 
digested  food,  it  must  cook  very  slowly,  the  water  never  reach- 
ing the  boiling-point.  Place  in  a  shallow  pan  as  many  muffin- 
rings  as  you  have  eggs  to  poach.  Turn  in  enough  boiling 
water  to  just  cover  the  rings;  add  a  little  salt.  "When  the 
water  boils,  draw  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  range,  and  break 
an  egg  into  each  ring.  It  should  take  at  least  ten  to  fifteen 
minutes  to  cook  the  eggs  to  the  translucent  state  desired.  Have 
ready  even  pieces  of  toast  one  half  inch  thick,  cut  into  rounds 
a  trifle  larger  than  the  muffin-rings.  Moisten  them  with  hot 
water,  and  spread  with  a  little  butter.  Remove  the  eggs  care- 
fully on  a  skimmer  or  pancake  turner,  and  place  one  on  each 
round  of  toast ;  then  lift  off  carefully  the  rings,  and  place  a  spot 
of  pepper  in  the  center  of  each  yolk.  Arrange  them  sym- 
metrically on  a  dish,  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

FBENGH  POACHED  EGGS,   No.  2 

These  eggs,  when  properly  cooked,  are  in  the  shape  of  balls, 
and  are  used  for  fancy  egg-dishes.  Have  in  a  deep  saucepan  a 
generous  amount  of  water ;  add  a  little  salt  and  vinegar ;  the 
salt  to  raise  the  heat  of  the  water,  the  vinegar  to  harden  the 
white  of  the  egg.  When  the  water  is  violently  boiling,  crack 
the  shell  of  the  egg,  and  holding  it  close  to  the  water,  drop  the 
contents  quickly  on  the  point  of  greatest  ebullition.  The  egg 
should  drop  all  at  once,  not  drain  into  the  water.  The  mass 
will  then  be  whole,  and  the  violently  agitated  water  will  toss  it 
about,  giving  it  a  round  form.  When  sufficiently  firm  to  hold, 
remove  with  a  skimmer  and  place  carefully  on  the  bottom  of  an 
inverted  tin  to  drain.  Poach  but  one  egg  at  a  time,  and  re- 
move it  before  the  yolk  hardens. 

POACHED  EGG,  No.  3 

Add  a  dash  of  salt  to  the  white  of  an  egg  and  whip  it  to  a 
froth.    Place  this  in  a  deep  saucer  or  cup,  and  place  in  the  cen- 


264  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

ter  the  whole  nnbroken  yolk.  Set  the  dish  in  a  pan  of  boil- 
ing water ;  cover  and  let  cook  for  two  minutes.  This  is  a  good 
way  to  serve  an  egg  to  an  invalid. 

FRIED  EGGS 

Place  a  little  butter  in  a  very  clean  frying-pan.    When  it 

bubbles,  turn  in  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  and  keep  the  pan 

where  the  heat  is  not  sufficient  to  blacken  the  butter.    If  the 

eggs  are  wanted  hard,  tui-n  and  fry  them  on  both  sides  like  a 

pancake. 

SCRAMBLED  EGGS 

Beat  the  eggs  lightly  with  a  fork,  just  enough  to  break  them. 
To  four  eggs  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  one  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash  of  pepper.  Put  into  a  very  clean 
frying-pan  one  half  tablespoonful  of  butter.  When  it  begins  to 
bubble,  turn  in  the  eggs,  and  stir  them  constantly  over  a  slow 
fire  until  they  begin  to  set ;  then  remove  them  from  the  fire 
and  continue  to  stir  until  they  are  of  the  right  consistency. 
The  heat  of  the  pan  wiU  be  sufficient  to  finish  the  cooking,  and 
there  will  not  be  danger  of  their  being  overcooked.  They 
should  be  finn  only,  not  hard.  If  the  pan  is  perfectly  clean, 
and  the  butter  is  not  allowed  to  burn,  they  will  have  a  bright 
clean  color.  Scrambled  eggs  may  be  varied  the  same  as 
omelets,  by  mixing  with  them  any  other  thing  desired.  The 
extra  material  should  be  added  when  the  pan  is  taken  fi*om  the 
fire,  and  stirred  with  the  egg  until  it  has  finished  cooking.  A 
teaspoonful  of  parsley,  chopped  fine,  gives  a  good  flavor  and 
simple  change.  A  httle  puree  of  tomatoes  added  makes  a  good 
combination.  With  minced  chicken,  veal,  ham,  fried  bacon, 
mushrooms,  or  sweetbreads,  it  makes  a  good  luncheon  dish. 
Any  pieces  left  over  will  serve  the  purpose,  as  very  little  is  re- 
quired.    Garnish  the  dish  with  croutons  and  parsley. 

PLAIK  FRENCH  OMELET 

An  omelet  is  the  most  difficult  to  prepare  of  any  egg  dish. 
It  requires  some  practice  to  give  it  the  right  shape  (which  is 
high  in  the  center  and  pointed  at  the  ends),  to  have  it  soft  in- 


1.   SHIRRED  EGG.  2.  COCOTTE.   (SEE  PAGE  266.) 


POACHED  EGG.   NO.  3.   (SEE  PAGE  263.) 


EGGS  X  L'AUROKE.   (SEE  PAGE  270.) 


EGGS  265 

side,  to  give  it  a  smooth,  slightly  browned  surface,  a  texture 
like  scrambled  eggs,  and  to  have  everything  perfect.  The  first 
essential  is  to  have  a  perfectly  clean  and  smooth  pan.  It  is 
difficult  to  make  a  smooth  omelet  in  a  pan  used  for  other  pur- 
poses j  so  it  is  well  to  have  one  kept  for  this  use  alone.  The 
French  do  not  wash  the  omelet-pan,  but  scour  it  smooth  with 
salt  and  vinegar  when  it  sticks,  and  at  other  times  rub  it  clean 
with  a  dry  cloth.  Before  using  the  pan  scour  it  well  with  dry 
salt  to  give  it  extra  smoothness. 

It  is  better  to  make  several  small  omelets  than  one  large  one, 
using  not  more  than  three  or  four  eggs  for  each  one.  Beat  the 
eggs  just  enough  to  break  them.  The  rule  is  twelve  beats.  To 
three  eggs  add  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  pepper,  and 
a  half  teaspoonful  of  butter  broken  into  small  bits.  A  teaspoon- 
ful of  milk  may  be  used  or  not.  Have  the  pan  evenly  heated 
and  hot,  but  not  scorching.  Put  in  a  half  teaspoonful  of  but- 
ter and  let  it  run  evenly  over  the  pan,  but  not  brown ;  turn  in 
the  eggs.  With  a  knife  or  fork  break  the  cooked  surface  in 
several  places  quickly,  so  the  egg  from  the  top  may  run  to  the 
bottom  and  cook,  or  press  the  egg  away  from  the  sides,  letting 
the  uncooked  part  run  under.  This  must  be  done  in  the  be- 
ginning so  as  not  to  make  the  surface  uneven.  When  the  egg 
is  cooked,  but  yet  quite  soft  on  the  top,  lift  the  pan  on  one  side, 
slip  the  knife  under,  and  carefully  roll  the  omelet  to  the  center. 
Let  it  cook  a  moment  to  set  any  egg  that  has  run  out,  and  if 
the  color  is  not  right  add  a  little  butter,  and  let  it  run  under 
and  slightly  color  the  omelet  Place  a  hot  dish  over  the  pan 
and  turn  them  together  so  the  omelet  will  fall  in  the  right 
place ;  press  it  into  good  shape,  doubling  it  under  on  the  ends 
if  necessary.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  serve  at  once.  Have 
everything  ready  before  beginning  to  cook  an  omelet,  as  it  will 
not  bear  being  kept  while  the  dish  is  heated,  and  the  garnishing 
found. 

VARIATIONS  OF  THE  OMELET 

No.  1.  Sprinkle  a  little  parsley,  chopped  fine,  over  the  top. 

No.  2.  Turn  tomato,  Bechamel  or  mushroom  sauce  on  the 
dish  around  the  omelet ;  sprinkle  the  top  with  chopped 


266  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

mushrooms,  if  that  sauce  is  used.  Garnish  with 
pointed  croutons. 

No.  3.  Green  omelet.  Mix  chopped  parsley  with  the  egg 
mixture  before  cooking  the  omelet,  and  do  not  brown 
the  surface. 

No.  4.  Aux  Fines  Herbes.  Chop  pai*sley,  chives,  chervil,  and 
tarragon  very  fine.  Mix  them  with  the  egg  mixture 
before  cooking.  When  the  omelet  is  turned  out,  rub 
over  it  a  little  maitre  d'hdtel  butter  (see  page  286). 

No.  5.  With  Peas  or  Tomatoes.  Before  turning  a  plain 
omelet,  spread  it  with  a  few  green  peas  or  tomatoes 
cooked  and  seasoned.  Asparagus  or  any  other  vege- 
table may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 

No.  6.  With  Ham.  Spread  the  plain  omelet  with  ham, 
chopped  fine,  before  turning  it.  Any  other  cooked 
meat  may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 

BEATEN  OMELET 

Beat  very  light  the  yolks  and  whites  of  three  eggs  separately. 
Season  the  yolks  with  salt  and  pepper  and  one  tablespoouf  ul  of 
milk;  then  fold  in  lightly  the  whipped  whites.  Put  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  butter  in  a  hot  frying  or  omelet  pan.  Let  it 
run  over  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  pan,  but  do  not  let  it  brown. 
Turn  in  the  egg  mixture,  spread  it  lightly  and  evenly  over  the 
pan,  and  let  it  cook  until  it  forms  a  very  light  crust  on  the  bot- 
tom ;  then  place  it  in  the  oven  about  three  minutes,  or  until  the 
egg  is  cooked  through,  but  not  hard ;  fold  it  once,  and  turn 
it  onto  a  hot  dish.  This  omelet  may  be  used  the  same  as  the 
French  omelet  in  combination  with  other  things.  Spread  any- 
thing so  used  on  the  omelet  before  turning  it.  For  a  sweet 
omelet  add  sugar  to  the  yolks,  and  omit  the  pepper.  Serve  at 
once. 

SHIEEED  EGGS 

(SUR  LE  PLAT  .    .    .  AU  MIROIB  .     .    .  COCOTTE.) 

For  this  dish  (sur  le  plat)  individual  china  dishes  are  gener- 
ally used,  although  a  dish  holding  several  eggs  will  do.    Butter 


ECMJS  267 

the  dishes ;  break  into  each  one  an  egg ;  sprinkle  a  little  salt  on 
the  whites,  but  not  on  the  yolks.  Place  them  on  the  shelf  of 
the  oven  so  the  heat  will  be  greatest  on  top ;  baste  the  yolks 
several  times  while  baking  with  a  little  hot  butter.  This  will 
give  them  a  glaze.  As  soon  as  the  glaze  appears  remove  them 
from  the  oven,  and  if  not  sufficiently  cooked,  stand  them  for  a 
minute  on  the  top  of  the  range.  Care  must  be  used  not  to  dry 
the  eggs. 

Several  eggs  cooked  together  in  this  way  in  a  large  dish, 
then  cut  into  circles  with  a  biscuit  cutter,  and  placed  on  broiled 
ham,  stewed  kidneys,  minced  meat,  tomato  puree,  or  other 
things,  are  called  eggs  au  miroir.  When  baked  in  individual 
dishes,  they  may  be  varied  by  sprinkling  in  the  dish  before  the 
egg  is  added  a  little  chopped  ham,  chicken,  mushrooms,  or  tomato 
puree,  etc.  When  baked  in  little  pot-shaped  dishes  in  the  same 
way  they  are  called  cocottes.  These  may  be  varied  by  lining 
the  dishes  with  a  thin  layer  of  forcemeat  or  minced  meat,  the 
eggs  then  dropped  in  and  poached  by  standing  the  dishes  in 
a  pan  of  water  in  the  oven.  When  done,  a  little  cream  or  Becha- 
mel sauce  or  tomato  puree  is  turned  over  the  top,  and  sprinkled 
with  parsley.  Serve  eggs  sur  le  plat  and  cocotte  in  the  dishes 
in  which  they  are  baked. 

MOLDED  EOGS 

(1  LA  POLIGNAC) 

Butter  weU  some  individual  timbale  molds  ;  chop  some  pars- 
ley very  fine,  and  powder  the  inside  of  the  buttered  molds  with 
it.  To  do  this,  place  a  teaspoonful  of  the  parsley  in  a  buttered 
mold,  cover  it  with  the  hand  and  shake  it  well ;  then  invert  the 
mold,  and  strike  it  on  the  table  to  free  it  of  all  that  is  loose. 
Break  into  each  mold  an  egg,  letting  it  go  in  slowly  from  the 
side  so  no  air  bubbles  will  be  held,  as  they  make  holes  and  un- 
even surface  in  the  cooked  egg.  Sprinkle  the  top  with  salt 
and  butter.  Place  the  molds  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  half  cover- 
ing them,  and  poach  in  a  moderate  oven  eight  to  ten  minutes, 
or  until  firm  enough  to  stand,  but  not  very  hard.  Serve  them 
on  a  flat  dish  with  a  spoonful  of  white,  B6chamel,  or  tomato 


268  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

sauce  under  each  form.    This  is  a  very  simple  way  of  prepar- 
ing eggs,  and  makes  a  good  luncheon  dish. 

MOLDED  HAM  AND  EGGS 

Mince  some  boiled  ham  very  fine.  Moisten  it  with  white 
sauce  and  raw  egg,  just  enough  to  make  a  consistent  paste. 
Line  individual  buttered  timbale  molds  with  a  thin  layer  of  the 
ham  paste.  Break  an  egg  in  the  center  of  each  one,  and  poach 
them  in  the  oven  eight  to  ten  minutes,  as  directed  for  eggs  k  la 
Polignac.  Place  a  little  white  or  Bechamel  sauce  on  the  serv- 
ing dish ;  turn  the  eggs  onto  it,  and  put  a  spoonful  of  sauce  on 
the  top  of  each  one,  letting  it  run  over,  and  partly  mask  them, 
as  the  color  of  the  ham  is  not  attractive.  Garnish  with  parsley. 
Another  receipt  for  ham  and  eggs  is  given  on  page  178.  Any 
other  meat  may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 

POACHED  EGGS  ON  ANCHOVY  TOAST 

(a  supper  dish) 

Cut  toasted  bread  into  circles;  spread  them  with  anchovy 
paste,  and  place  on  each  piece  a  poached  egg  prepared  as  di- 
rected in  receipt  No.  1. 

POACHED  EGGS  WITH  ANCHOVY 

(an  entree  for  luncheon) 

Cut  bread  into  circles  and  toast  them ;  spread  them  lightly 
first  with  anchovy  paste,  then  with  a  layer  of  ham  or  tongue 
chopped  very  fine,  seasoned  well,  and  a  little  moistened  with 
stock  or  white  sauce.  Cover  the  top  with  whipped  white  of 
egg ;  place  a  raw  yolk  in  the  center  of  each  one.  Bake  them 
in  the  oven  for  one  minute,  or  just  long  enough  to  weU  heat  the 

POACHED  EGG  WITH  TOMATO 

Cut  bread  into  slices  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  then 
into  circles.    With  a  smaller  cutter  cut  half  way  through  the 


EGOS  269 

bread,  and  remove  the  center,  leaving  a  form  like  a  patty  case. 
Fry  them  in  hot  fat  to  an  amber  color ;  fill  the  centers  with 
weU  seasoned  tomato  puree,  and  place  on  the  top  of  each  one  a 
French  poached  egg. 


EGOS  1  LA  VULEBOI 

This  dish  is  served  as  an  entree  for  luncheon,  and  is  a  par- 
ticularly good  as  well  as  mysterious  dish,  for  having  a  soft  egg 
inside  a  croquette  seems  a  difficult  thing  to  get.  Poach  the 
eggs  French  style  (page  263),  using  care  to  have  them  round  and 
just  firm  enough  to  hold  in  shape.  Lift  them  carefully  on  a 
strainer,  and  place  them  on  the  bottom  of  an  inverted  pan,  leaving 
a  space  between  them.  When  they  are  cold  trim  them,  carefully 
removing  any  ragged  ends  of  white,  and  wipe  them  dry.  Make 
a  ViUeroi  sauce  as  directed  (page  280).  When  it  is  partly  cooled, 
pour  it  with  a  spoon  over  the  eggs.  It  should  form  a  thick 
coating.  When  it  is  cold  and  well  set,  trim  each  egg  neatly 
again,  cutting  away  any  of  the  sauce  that  has  run  over  the  pan. 
Have  some  soft,  white  crumbs,  grated  from  the  loaf  or  rubbed 
through  a  coarse  sieve,  and  mixed  with  grated  cheese.  Lift  an 
egg  on  a  broad  knife,  and  place  it  on  the  crumbs.  Cover  it  with 
as  many  crumbs  as  will  adhere.  Lift  it  again  on  the  knife  into 
a  dish  containing  beaten  egg,  and  with  a  spoon  moisten  it  weU 
with  the  egg.  Then  place  it  on  fresh,  white  crumbs  that  are 
not  mixed  with  cheese,  and  cover  it  completely.  It  can  now  be 
handled  with  care  and  turned  into  good  shape  in  the  crumbs. 
Let  the  breaded  eggs  stand  until  just  ready  to  serve,  then  place 
three  or  four  at  a  time  in  a  wire  basket,  and  plunge  them  in 
smoking  hot  fat  (see  frying,  page  72)  to  take  a  delicate  color. 
Do  not  let  them  become  deeper  than  lemon  color.  Place  a 
spoonful  of  ViUeroi  sauce  on  each  plate,  using  the  sauce  left 
from  coating  the  eggs  and  thinning  it  with  stock ;  place  an  egg 
on  the  sauce  and  serve  at  once.  Chopped  truffl.es  mixed  with 
the  sauce  improves  it. 


270  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

EGOS  A  LA  BOUEOUIKONITE 

Poach  eggs  in  the  French  style,  letting  them  be  as  soft  as 
possible.  Butter  a  flat  baking-dish ;  sprinkle  it  with  bread 
crumbs  and  grated  cheese.  Place  on  them  carefully  the  poached 
eggs.  Cover  them  with  Bechamel  or  Allemaude  sauce  (see 
page  279),  and  sprinkle  over  the  top  grated  Parmesan  cheese. 
Place  in  a  hot  oven  to  melt  the  cheese,  and  lightly  brown  the 
top. 

EGGS  A  L'AVBOBE 

Take  six  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  press  the  yolks  thi'ough  a 
colander.  Cut  the  whites  into  half-inch  dice,  mix  them  with 
a  well-reduced  white  or  Bechamel  sauce,  and  turn  them  into  a 
flat  baking-dish.  Cover  the  top  with  the  mashed  yolks,  dot  it 
with  small  bits  of  butter,  and  place  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  few 
minutes  to  heat,  but  not  brown.  This  may  be  served  in  indi- 
vidual cups  or  shells  if  desired.  Chopped  mushrooms  mixed 
with  the  sauce  makes  a  good  variation  of  the  dish.  Another 
way  of  serving  it  is  to  cut  the  whites  lengthwise  into  quarters  or 
eighths,  and  place  them  in  a  circle  on  the  dish;  pour  the  sauce 
in  the  center,  leaving  the  points  of  one  end  uncovered,  and 
sprinkle  over  the  sauce  the  mashed  yolks.  In  order  not  to 
have  the  dish  cold  when  served  in  this  way,  keep  the  cut  whites 
in  hot  water  until  ready  to  serve.  Have  the  dish  hot,  and  put  all 
together  quickly  at  the  moment  of  serving.    (See  illustration.) 

GOLDEN  CEEAH  TOAST 

Cut  bread  into  even  pieces;  toast  and  butter  the  pieces,  and 
moisten  them  with  hot  water.  Boil  six  eggs  hard.  Separate 
the  whites  from  the  yolks;  chop  the  whites,  and  press  the  yolks 
through  a  colander  or  sieve.  Make  a  white  sauce,  using  one 
tablespoonful  each  of  butter  and  flour  cooked  together,  and 
then  add  a  cupful  of  cream  or  milk.  When  it  is  well  thickened 
add  the  chopped  whites,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt. 
Spread  this  mixture  on  the  shces  of  toast,  and  cover  the  top 


EGGS  271 

with  the  mashed  yolks.    Sprinkle  the  yolks  evenly  over  the 
pieces,  so  they  look  very  yellow.    Serve  very  hot. 

CURBIED  EOOS 

Boil  the  eggs  hard ;  remove  the  shells  carefully  as  directed 
(page  262),  and  drop  them  in  hot  water  to  keep  warm  until 
ready  to  use.  Mold  some  boiled  rice.into  a  form  resembling  a 
nest.  Have  the  rice  boiled  so  each  grain  is  distinct  (see  page 
222).  Place  it  on  the  hot  shelf  to  keep  warm.  Place  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  onion  in  a  saucepan  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter,  and  cook  until  the  onion  is  a  light  yellow,  but  not 
brown.  Add  an  even  tablespoonful  of  corn  starch,  mixed  with  a 
half  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder  and  diluted  with  a  little 
cold  milk  or  stock,  then  stir  in  slowly  one  and  a  half  cupfuls 
of  white  stock  or  milk.  Let  it  cook  until  the  corn  starcli  is 
clear;  add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  strain  it.  The  sauce 
should  be  a  bright  yellow  color,  perfectly  smooth,  and  not  very 
thick.  Wipe  the  eggs  dry,  roll  them  in  the  sauce  to  get  evenly 
coated  with  color,  and  place  them  in  the  nest  of  rice.  Pour  in 
enough  sauce  to  moisten  the  rice  without  discoloring  the  out- 
side or  top  edge  of  the  rice  around  the  eggs.     (See  illustration.) 

STUFFED  EGGS  No;  1 

Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  in  two  lengthwise.  Take  out  carefully 
the  yolks,  mash  them,  and  mix  them  with  some  chicken  or 
other  meat  minced  fine.  Season  the  mixture  with  pepper  and 
salt.  Moisten  it  with  a  little  of  any  kind  of  sauce  or  gravy, 
and  add  a  little  raw  egg.  Chopped  truffles  and  mushrooms  may 
be  added  to  the  stuffing  if  convenient.  Fill  the  spaces  in  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  with  the  mixture;  smooth  it  even  with  the 
top;  rub  a  little  raw  white  of  egg  over  the  pieces,  and  press 
two  halves  together.  Roll  the  stuffed  eggs  in  egg  and  crumbs, 
and  fry  in  hot  fat  to  a  lemon  color.  Serve  the  eggs  on  a  nap- 
kin, and  pass  with  them  a  white.  Bechamel,' tomato,  or  any  other 
sauce. 


272  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

STXTFFED  EGGS  No.  2 

Oat  hard-boiled  eggs  in  halves.  Take  out  the  yolks,  leaving 
two  cup-shaped  pieces.  Mix  the  yolks  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  softened  bread;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  parsley.  Add 
a  little  raw  egg  to  bind  the  mixture,  and  fill  the  spaces  from 
which  the  yolks  were  taken.  Round  it  on  top  to  give  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  whole  yolk.  Cut  a  little  slice  off  the  bottom  of 
the  egg,  so  it  will  stand  firm.  Place  them  in  the  oven  just  long 
enough  to  heat,  and  serve  standing,  on  a  dish  covered  with 
white  sauce. 

EGG  CBOai/ETTES 

Cut  some  hard-boiled  eggs  into  quarter-inch  dice.  Mix  with 
them  some  chopped  mushrooms.  Stir  them  carefully  into  a 
well-reduced  Bechamel  or  white  sauce  made  as  directed  for 
croquettes  (page  293).  Turn  the  mixture  onto  a  cold  dish  to 
cool  and  stiffen.  Mold  into  croquettes,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  See 
directions  for  croquettes  (page  293). 

OTHEE  WATS  OF  SEBVUfG  HARD-BOHED  EGGS 

(luncheon  dishes) 

No.  1.  Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  in  two  lengthwise.  Arrange 
them  symmetrically  on  a  flat  dish,  and  pour  over  them  a  giblet 
sauce  made  of  chicken  or  turkey  gravy. 

No.  2.  Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  into  quarters.  Make  a  ring 
form  of  boiled  rice;  fill  the  center  with  the  eggs;  pour  over 
them  some  Bechamel  sauce.  Sprinkle  the  whole  with  bread- 
crumbs and  grated  cheese.  Moisten  the  top  with  melted  but- 
ter, and  place  in  the  oven  to  brown.  Serve  on  the  dish  in 
which  they  are  browned. 

TOMATOES  STUFFED  WITH  EGGS 

Select  round  tx)ma,toes  of  uniform  size;  remove  the  skins. 
Cut  a  slice  off  the  tops,  and  take  out  the  seeds  and  soft  pulp. 
Drop  into  each  one  a  raw  egg,  and  replace  the  cover.    Set  the 


CUBEIED  EGGS  IN  A  NEST  OF  KICE.   (SEE  PAGE  271.) 


MOLDED  EGGS  A  LA  POLIGNAC.  (SEE  PAGE  267.) 


EGGS  273 

tomatoes  into  a  buttered  pan  or  into  a  baking-dish  which  can 
be  sent  to  the  table,  and  place  in  the  oven  for  about  ten  min- 
utes, or  until  the  egg  has  set.  Serve  on  the  same  dish  and  with 
a  brown  or  a  Bechamel  sauce. 


EGGS  A  LA  BEIHE 

DOWN  TOWN  CLUB 

Make  croustades,  three  inches  in  diameter  and  half  an  inch 
thick,  from  stale  American  bread.  Dip  them  in  good  melted 
butter,  put  them  on  a  pan  in  the  oven  until  they  are  a  nice 
light-brown  color ;  then  take  out  the  center  of  each  croustade 
and  fill  with  f  oie  gras.  On  the  top  of  each  put  a  poached  egg ; 
then  pour  over  a  cream  sauce,  sprinkle  with  truffles  chopped 
fine,  and  serve  immediately. 

EGGS  LIVINGSTON 

DOWN  TOWN  CLUB.   (FOB  SIX  PERSONS) 

Take  twelve  raw  eggs,  half  a  pint  of  rich  cream;  beat  well 
together,  add  salt  and  pepper.  Put  the  mixture  in  a  flat  sauce- 
pan well  buttered,  and  scramble ;  then  add  three  quarters  of  a 
pint  of  well-cooked  tomato  meat  and  three  truffles  hashed 
(not  too  fine).  Dress  on  toast  covered  with  pate  de  foie  gi*as. 
Serve  very  hot. 

EGGS  AU  BEURRE  NOIB. 

Poach  or  fry  the  number  of  eggs  desired  and  place- them  ou 
a  flat  dish.  Pour  over  them  enough  brown  butter  sauce  to  well 
moisten  them.    (See  page  291.) 


18 


274  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

SPANISH  OMELET 

Make  a  plain  French  omelet,  using  four  eggs  (see  page  264). 
Just  before  it  is  done  place  in  the  center  a  veal  kidney,  which 
has  been  well  soaked,  then  cut  into  half-inch  dice  and  sauted 
until  tender  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Do  not  cook  the 
kidney  too  long  or  it  will  toughen. 

Fold  the  omelet  and  turn  it  onto  a  dish.  Pour  around  the 
omelet  a  tomato  sauce  (see  page  285).  Spread  over  the  top  of 
the  omelet  a  sweet  green  pepper,  which  has  been  boiled  until 
tender  and  then  cut  into  narrow  strips. 

The  sauce,  the  kidney  and  the  pepper  should  be  prepared 
first,  as  the  omelet  must  be  served  as  soon  as  the  eggs  are 
cooked. 


Chapter  XI 


SAUCES 


"  There  are  many  sauces  besides  hunger/' 

The  basis  of  most  sauces  is  butter  and  flour  cooked 
together,  which  makes  a  roux  or  thickening.  K  for 
a  white  sauce,  the  flour  is  not  colored ;  if  for  a  brown 
sauce,  the  flour  is  cooked  until  brown.  To  this  basis 
are  added  the  flavor  and  seasoning  suited  to  the  dish 
with  which  it  is  to  be  served.  For  meats,  it  is  the  flavor 
of  meat,  vegetables,  spices,  and  herbs ;  for  entries,  it 
is  the  flavor  of  meat  or  chicken,  and  cream ;  for  vege- 
tables it  is  butter,  cream  or  milk,  and  eggs ;  for  flsh, 
the  same,  with  a  little  lemon- juice  or  vinegar  to  give 
piquancy.  The  basis  of  pudding  sauces  is  butter  and 
sugar. 

Sauces  are  easily  made,  and  greatly  improve  the 
dishes  they  accompany.  Many  dishes  depend  upon 
sauces  to  make  them  palatable,  and  many  made-over 
dishes  are  very  acceptable  when  served  with  a  good 
sauce.  The  first  and  most  simple  one  to  learn  is  the 
white  sauce,  and  this  is  used  for  very  many  dishes. 
It  is  made  by  melting  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and 
then  adding  a  tablespoonful  of  flour.  To  this  roux  is 
added  a  haK  pint  (one  cupful)  of  milk  for  white  sauce, 
or  of  cream  for  cream  sauce.  If  a  cupful  of  stock  (or 
half  stock  and  half  milk)  is  used  it  becomes  a  Becha- 
mel sauce ;  then,  if  a  couple  of  egg-yoLks  are  added,  it 
makes  a  poulette  sauce,  which  is  the  one  generally 
used  with  chicken,  sweetbreads,  oysters,  etc. 

276 


General 
directions. 


Uses  and 

variations 

of  the 

white 

sauce. 


276 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


Stock  for 
sauces. 


General 
directions. 


The  superiority  of  Frencli  cooking  is  largely  in  the 
variety  of  their  sauces,  to  the  preparation  of  which 
much  care  is  given.  It  cannot  be  too  strongly  urged 
that  every  housekeeper  will  give  attention  to  this 
important  branch  of  cooking. 

Every  kitchen  can  produce  a  stock  made  from  odds 
and  ends  unsuitable  for  other  pui*poses  than  the  stock- 
pot,  and  this  stock  is  most  useful  in  preparing  sauces, 
giving  a  flavor  not  obtained  in  specially  prepared 
stock. 

A  French  cook  keeps  at  hand  the  different  essences 
required  to  combine  in  sauces,  such  as  a  Mirepoix 
(vegetable  flavor),  which  is  made  by  cutting  into  dice 
an  onion,  carrot,  and  turnip,  celery,  parsley,  bay-leaf 
and  bits  of  meat,  frjdng  them  in  fat  pork  or  butter, 
then  adding  a  little  water,  and  simmering  an  hour,  or 
until  the  flavor  of  the  vegetables  is  extracted;  a 
Spanish  sauce,  made  by  adding  stock  instead  of  water 
to  the  fried  vegetables ;  a  veal  or  white  stock ;  a  brown 
and  a  white  roux,  and  glaze. 

The  flavor  of  vegetables  can  easily  be  obtained  by 
frying  them  in  the  butter  used  in  making  the  roux, 
before  the  flour  is  added.  In  preparing  sauces  with 
milk,  use  a  double  boiler,  or  set  a  small  saucepan  into 
a  larger  one  containing  water.  The  milk  will  be 
scalded  when  the  water  boils  in  the  double  boiler. 
BroAvn  sauces  need  long  slow  cooking  to  blend  the 
flavors.  If  the  butter  rises  to  the  top  add  a  little 
more  stock  or  milk ;  stir  it  well  until  it  boils,  and  it 
will  then  become  smooth  again.  Do  this  just  before 
serving.  Have  always  a  small  strainer  at  hand,  and 
strain  sauces  so  there  wiU  be  no  lumps  in  them.  If 
stock  is  not  at  hand,  substitute  beef  extract,  which 
comes  in  jars,  using  it  in  the  proportion  of  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  extract  to  a  cupful  of  hot  water.  In  this 
case  fry  vegetables  in  the  roux. 


SAUCES  277 

GLAZE 

Glaze  is  miicli  used  in  high-class  cooking.  It  gives  to  meats 
a  smooth  and  polished  surface.  Cold  meats  to  be  garnished  for 
suppers  are  much  improved  in  appeai'ance  by  being  glazed. 
Grlaze  is  also  added  to  sauces  to  give  them  richness  and  flavor. 

To  make  glaze :  Take  good  consomm^  of  beef  (or  a  white 
stock,  when  it  is  to  be  used  for  fowls  or  white  meat),  clear  it, 
and  reduce  it  to  one  quarter  (or  one  quart  of  stock  to  one  cup- 
ful). It  will  quickly  boil  down  in  an  open  saucepan  and  be- 
come like  a  thick  paste.  It  will  keep  some  time  if  closed  in  a 
preserve  jar  and  kept  in  a  cool  place.  When  used,  heat  it  in  a 
double  saucepan  and  apply  it  with  a  brush. 

BOUX  FOB  SAUCES 

One  tablespoonf ul  of  butter ;  one  tablespoonf ul  of  flour. 

Rous  is  used  for  thickening,  giving  body  to  sauces,  etc.  It  is 
made  by  cooking  together  an  equal  quantity  of  butter  and  flour 
for  about  five  minutes,  or  until  the  flour  has  lost  the  raw  taste. 
When  the  roux  is  cooked,  draw  the  saucepan  to  a  cooler  part  of 
the  range,  and  add  the  liquor  (stock  or  milk)  slowly,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  cupful  of  liquor  to  one  tablespoonful  each  of 
butter  and  flour,  and  stir  until  smooth.  If  the  roux  is  for  white 
sauce  do  not  let  the  flour  color.  K  for  brown  sauce,  let  it  cook 
until  brown,  but  be  careful  that  it  does  not  bum.  If  more  flavor 
is  wanted,  fry  a  few  slices  of  onion  or  other  vegetables  in  the 
butter  before  adding  the  flom*.  Sauces  thickened  in  this  way 
are  much  better  than  those  in  which  uncooked  flour  is  used. 
In  making  roux  do  not  use  more  butter  than  flour.  Where 
more  butter  is  required  in  a  sauce,  add  it,  in  small  pieces  at  a 
time,  after  the  other  ingredients  are  mixed  with  the  roux.  This 
will  prevent  an  oily  line  forming. 

WHITE  SAUCE 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter.  1  cupful  of  milk. 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour.  J  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1^  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 


278  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan.  When  it 
bubbles  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  cook,  stirring  con- 
stantly, for  five  minutes,  but  do  not  let  it  color  ;  draw  it  to  a 
cooler  part  of  the  range  and  add  very  slowly,  stirring  all  the 
time,  one  cupful  of  cold  milk,  and  stir  until  perfectly  smooth 
and  a  little  thickened.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Most  of 
the  white  sauces  are  simple  variations  from  this  sauce.  Water 
may  be  used  instead  of  milk,  and  it  is  then  called  drawn-butter 
sauce.  It  can  be  made  richer  by  adding  a  little  more  butter,  in 
small  pieces,  one  at  a  time,  after  the  milk  is  in ;  also  by  adding 
the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  If  the  egg  is  added  remove  the  pan 
from  the  fire  and  let  it  cool  a  httle  before  adding  the  egg ;  then 
cook  for  a  minute,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  or  the  egg  wiU  curdle. 

The  secret  of  making  a  good  white  sauce  is  in  cooking  the 
flour  until  the  starch  grains  have  burst,  which  removes  the  raw 
and  pasty  taste  one  finds  where  this  care  is  not  used.  There  is 
no  difficulty  in  making  it  smooth  if  the  milk  is  turned  in  slowly, 
as  directed  above.  A  common  way  of  making  this  sauce  is  to 
rub  the  butter  and  flour  together,  and  then  stir  them  into  the 
boiling  milk,  but  this  does  not  give  as  good  a  result  as  when 
a  roux  is  made.  The  intense  heat  of  frying  butter  cooks  the 
flour  quickly,  while  milk  boiled  long  enough  to  cook  the  flour 
is  changed  in  flavor.  When  this  sauce  is  used  as  the  basis  of 
other  sauces,  the  amount  of  salt  and  pepper  must  be  varied  to 
suit  the  requirements  of  the  other  ingredients. 

WHITE   SAUCE  FOR  FISH      ' 

Make  a  white  sauce,  using  with  the  milk  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  the  water  in  which  the  fish  is  boiled.  Boil  in  the  water 
with  the  fish  five  cloves,  three  bay-leaves,  one  onion,  eight  pep- 
percorns, and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt.  This  wiU  give  flavor 
to  the  fish  and  to  the  sauce. 

EGG  SAUCE  FOR  BOILED   FISH 

To  a  pint,  or  two  cupfuls,  of  white  sauce,  add  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  into  slices  or  small  dice,  and,  if  liked,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 


SAUCES  279 

CAPER  SAUCE 

(boiled  mutton) 

Add"  to  two  cupfuis  of  white  sauce  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
capers.     See  also  page  164. 

OYSTER  SAUCE 

(BOILED  FISH  OR  FOWLS) 

Scald  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  until  the  edges  curl. 
Make  a  white  sauce  using  oyster-liquor  instead  of  milk,  or 
use  half  milk  and  half  oyster-liquor.  Add  the  oysters  just  be- 
fore serving.  One  dozen  oysters  are  enough  for  one  pint  of  sauce. 

CELERT  SAUCE 

(BOILED  fowls) 

Cut  one  half  cupful  of  celery  into  small  pieces.  Boil  it  in 
salted  water  until  tender.  Add  the  cooked  celery  to  one  cupful 
of  white  sauce. 

LOBSTER  SAUCE 

Chop  the  meat  of  a  lobster  into  coarse  pieces.  Add  it  to  a 
pint  of  white  sauce.  Add  also  a  little  of  the  coral  (which  has 
been  dried  and  pounded  to  a  powder),  and  a  little  paprica. 

VELOUTE'  and  ALLEMANDE   SAUCES 

(fish  and  vegetables) 

Make  a  white  sauce  (page  277),  using  chicken  or  veal  stock 
instead  of  milk. 

Allemande.  Remove  the  Veloute  from  the  fire ;  add  two  yolks 
beaten  with  one  half  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  a  dash  of  nutmeg.  Put  on  the  fire 
a  moment  to  thicken,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Continue  to  stir 
for  some  moments  after  removing  from  the  fire. 

BECHAMEL  SAUCE 

Make  a  white  sauce,  using  for  liquor  one  haK  each  of  rich 
white  stock  and  milk,  or  use  stock  alone.    A  slice  of  onion,  car- 


280  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

rot  and  turnip  should  be  fried  in  the  butter  before  the  flour  is 
added.  A  richer  Bechamel  is  made  by  adding  a  little  cream 
aaid  chopped  mushrooms. 

POULETTE  SAUCE 

(for  CmCKEN-BREASTS,   SWEETBREADS,  AND   OTHER  ENTRIES) 

Take  a  pint  of  white  sauce  made  with  chicken  or  veal  stock 
instead  of  milk.  Beat  four  yolks  with  a  cupful  of  cream.  Re- 
move the  sauce  from  the  fire,  and  add  it  slowly  to  the  eggs  and 
cream,  stirring  all  the  time.  Put  it  again  on  the  fire  a  moment 
to  thicken;  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  or  it  will  curdle.  Add  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  slowly,  a  small  piece  at  a  time,  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  a  dash 
of  nutmeg.  Serve  at  once.  Do  not  put  the  sauce  together 
until  it  is  time  to  serve,  as  it  is  likely  to  curdle  after  the  eggs 
and  lemon- juice  are  in.  Stir  constantly,  and  for  a  moment 
after  removing  from  the  fire. 

VILLEROI 

(TO  USE  FOR  EGGS  VILLEROI,  AND  FOR  COATINQ  COLD  MEATS 
THAT  ARE  TO  BE  HEATED  AGAIN) 

Put  in  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  slice  of 
onion;  fry  for  a  few  moments,  but  not  brown.  Remove  the 
onion,  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour;  cook  but  do  not 
brown  the  flour.  Dilute  with  two  cupfuls  of  stock,  and  boil, 
stirring  constantly  until  the  sauce  is  very  thick.  Season  with 
one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
a  dash  each  of  cayenne  and  nutmeg;  remove  from  the  fire,  and 
add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  beaten  with  one  half  cupful  of 
cream  or  milk.  Place  again  on  the  fire,  and  let  thicken  until 
quite  stiff  and  elastic.  Do  not  let  it  boil  after  the  eggs  are 
added,  or  it  will  curdle;  stir  constantly.  When  it  is  beginning 
to  cool  pour  it  over  the  articles  it  is  to  coat,  or  roll  the 
ai"ticles  in  it  as  the  receipts  direct.  Chopped  parsley,  truffles, 
and  mushrooms  may  be  mixed  with  this  sauce,  if  desired.     The 


SAUCES  281 

thick  sauce  left  from  coating  the  articles  may  be  diluted  with 
stock  or  milk,  and  served  with  them.  This  amount  of  sauce  is 
sufficient  to  coat  and  to  give  diluted  sauce  for  a  dozen  eggs 
villeroi. 

HOIIAITDAISE 

(boiled  fish,  asparagus,  cauliflower) 

In  a  saucepan  or  bowl  rub  to  a  cream  one  half  cupful  of  but- 
ter; add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  beat  well  together;  then 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
a  dash  of  cayenne;  then  add  slowly  one  cupful  of  hot  water; 
mix  well,  and  set  it  into  a  saucepan  of  hot  water.  Stir  con- 
stantly until  the  sauce  becomes  like  a  thick  cream.  Do  not 
let  it  boil.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  continue  to  stir  for 
a  few  minutes.  It  should  be  creamy  and  consistent.  It  is  one 
of  the  best  sauces  to  use  with  fish.  It  is  also  good  cold  with 
cold  fish  or  meats. 

GHAUDFBOID  SAUCE 

(for  covering  cold  chicken  or  meats  which  are  to  be 
served  cold) 

Put  two  tablespooufuls  of  butter  into  a  saucepan;  when  it 
bubbles  add  two  tablespooufuls  of  flour.  Let  it  cook  well,  but 
not  brown;  stir  all  the  time.  Add  two  cupfuls  of  chicken  or 
of  veal  stock,  and  stir  until  it  is  well  thickened.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Then  add  a  half  box,  or  one  ounce,  of  gelatine 
which  has  soaked  an  hour  in  a  half  cupful  of  cold  water.  Stir  un- 
til the  gelatine  has  dissolved.  Strain  the  sauce,  and  let  it  just 
begin  to  stiffen  before  using  it.  Put  a  little  on  ice  to  see  if  it 
will  be  of  the  right  fii*mness.  If  it  is  too  stiff  add  a  little  more 
stock ;  if  not  hard  enough  add  a  little  more  gelatine.  It  needs 
to  be  only  firm  enough  to  hold  its  place  well  without  running. 

A  yellow  color  can  be  given  it  by  adding  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  just  before  removing  it  from  the  fire.  A  brown  chaud- 
froid,  which  is  used  for  game  and  dark  meats,  is  made  by 
browning  the  roux,  diluting  it  with  beef  stock;  and  a  deeper 


282  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

color  can  be  obtained  with  a  few  drops  of  kitchen  bouquet. 
This  sauce,  poured  over  boned  chicken  or  other  meats,  gives 
them  a  smooth,  even  surface.  They  can  then  be  elaborately- 
decorated  with  truffles,  making  ornamental  cold  dishes  for 
suppers.  Before  covering  a  galantine  with  chaudfroid  fill  any 
irregularities  on  the  surface  of  the  meat  with  a  little  of  the 
sauce  which  has  been  placed  on  ice  to  set.  The  surface  can  in 
this  way  be  made  perfectly  even,  so  when  the  sauce  is  turned 
over  it  the  galantine  will  be  smooth.       (See  picture,  page  192.) 

BROWK  SAUCE 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire.  Let  them  both  become  brown; 
then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  brown  that  also.  Stir 
all  the  time.  Add  a  cupful  of  beef  or  brown  stock,  and  cook  until 
the  sauce  is  a  little  thickened.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt 
Strain  it  to  remove  the  onion.  A  sauce  poivrade  is  made  by 
adding  to  the  brown  sauce,  at  the  same  time  that  the  stock  is 
put  in,  a  cupful  of  claret,  two  cloves,  a  bay-leaf,  a  little  thyme 
and  parsley.  In  place  of  claret,  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar 
gives  a  Robert  sauce. 

ESFAGNOLE 

(chops,  cutlets,  croquettes,  and  SEASONING 
FOR  OTHER  SAUCES) 

2^  cupfuls  of  stock  or  consomme.     1  tablespoonful     each     of 

1  tablespoonful  of  gelatine.  chopped  carrot  and  celery. 
4  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.                 1  bay-leaf. 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  3  cloves. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onion.     1  piece  of  parsley. 
1  tablespoonful  of  chopped  lean        1  piece  of  mace. 

ham.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

J  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  a  half  cupful  of  stock.  Put  the  butter  in 
a  saucepan;  when  hot  add  the  chopped  vegetables  and  ham,  and 


SAUCES  288 

let  them  brown  j  then  add  the  flour,  and  let  that  brown.  Stir 
constantly  so  it  will  not  burn.  When  well  browned  add  slowly 
the  stock,  then  the  herbs,  spices,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  let  cook 
for  five  minutes.  Cover  the  saucepan.  Set  it  into  a  larger  one 
containing  hot  water.  Draw  it  to  the  side  of  the  range  to 
simmer  slowly  for  two  hours.  Then  stir  in  the  soaked  gela- 
tine, and  let  stand  another  half  hour.  When  ready  to  serve 
skim  off  the  fat  and  strain.  If  a  stock  made  with  knuckle  of 
veal  is  used,  the  gelatine  will  not  be  needed.  It  is  used  to  give 
smoothness.  This  is  the  richest  of  the  brown  sauces,  and  in 
French  cooking  is  used  as  the  basis,  or  seasoning,  for  them  all. 
If  too  thick  dilute  with  stock. 

CHAMPAGNE  SAUCE  (HAM) 

Put  in  a  saucepan  one  cupful  of  champagne,  two  cloves,  six 
peppercorns,  one  bay-leaf,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Let  them 
infuse  for  five  minutes  over  the  fire;  then  add  a  cupful  of  Es- 
pagnole  or  of  brown  sauce,  and  a  little  mushroom  liquor  if  con- 
venient.    Let  it  simmer  for  ten  minutes  and  strain. 

Any  white  wine  may  be  used  instead  of  champagne. 

FiaUANTE   SAUCE 

(BAKED  FISH,  ROAST  AND  BROILED  MEATS) 

2  cupfuls  of  brown  stock.      1  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion. 
4  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.     1  tablespoonful  of  chopped  capers. 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.      2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  pickle. 
4  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  1  teaspoonful  of  sugar. 
Dash  of  cayenne.  J  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar. 

Put  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  begins  to  brown 
add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  it  is  well  browned,  but  do  not  let  it 
bum.  Draw  to  a  cooler  place  on  the  range,  and  slowly  add  the 
stock,  stirring  constantly,  add  salt  and  cayenne,  and  let  sim- 
mer for  ten  minutes.  In  another  saucepan  boil  the  vinegar, 
onion,  and  sugar  rapidly  for  five  minutes;  then  add  it  to  the 


284  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

sauce,  and  at  the  same  time  add  the  capers,  pickle  and  tarragon 
vinegar.  Stir  well,  and  let  cook  for  two  minutes  to  heat  the 
pickle.  If  the  sauce  becomes  too  thick  dilute  it  with  a  little 
water.  For  piquante  sauce  No  2,  to  two  cupfuls  of  Espagnole 
sauce  add  capers  and  pickles. 

SOUBISE  SAUCE 

(fob  chops) 

Fry  three  or  four  onions  until  soft  in  a  tablespoonf ul  of  but- 
ter; press  them  through  a  strainer,  and  m\x  with  a  cupful  of 
brown  sauce. 

HORSERADISH  SAUCE 

(ROAST  OR  BOILED  BEEF) 

Mix  together  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  soft  white  crumbs  of  bread 
and  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  grated  horseradish.  Cover  them  with 
cream  or  milk,  and  let  soak  for  two  hours.  Then  rub  them 
through  a  sieve,  and  add  one  quarter  teaspoouful  of  salt,  one 
quai'ter  teaspoonf  ul  of  sugar,  and  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  vinegar. 
Enough  milk  should  be  used  to  give  it  the  consistency  of  cream. 
This  sauce  will  keep  in  a  cool  place  for  several  days. 

MUSTARD  SAUCE 

(corned  beef,  BROILED  AND   ROASTED  MEATS) 

Make  a  roux  of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour.    Add  to  it 

1  cupful  of  stock.  1  teaspoonf  ul  of  dry  English 

1  tablespoonful  of  French  mustard. 

mustard.  ^  teaspoouful  salt. 

1  tablespoonful  of  vinegar.  1  teaspoouful  of  sugar. 

A  dash  of  cayenne.  Cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes. 

CXTRRT  SAUCE 

(for  eggs,  chicken,  etc.) 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan.  When  it  bub- 
bles add  a  teaspoouful  of  onion- juice,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 


SAUCES  285 

curry  powder  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Let  it 
cook  a  few  minutes,  and  add  slowly  two  cupf uls  of  milk.  Stir 
constantly. 

OLIVE  SAUCE 
(ducks) 

1  dozen  stoned  olives.  1  tablespoonf  ul  each  of  chopped 

1  cupful  of  brown  stock.  onion  and  carrot. 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter.  1  clove. 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour.  1  teaspoonf ul  of  salt. 

Dash  of  pepper. 

Put  the  butter  in  a  saucepan;  when  it  bubbles  add  the 
chopped  onion  and  carrot  and  let  them  brown ;  then  the  flour 
and  let  that  brown.  Then  add  slowly  the  stock ;  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  one  clove ;  let  simmer  for  twenty  minutes  and 
strain.  Stone  the  olives,  leaving  the  meat  in  one  piece ;  boil 
them  in  a  little  water  for  half  an  hour.  Add  the  cooked  olives 
to  the  strained  sauce,  and  cook  for  five  minutes;  or,  dilute  a 
cupful  of  Espagnole  sauce  with  a  cupful  of  brown  stock,  and 
add  the  cooked  olives.  If  brown  sauce  is  not  at  hand,  use  ex- 
tract of  beef  from  jar  (one  teaspoonf  ul  of  extract  to  one  cup- 
ful of  hot  water).  If  the  sauce  gets  too  thick  dilute  it  with  a 
little  stock. 

TOMATO   SAUCE 

(meats,  croquettes  and  ENTRijES) 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Parsley. 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour.  1  bay-leaf. 

1  tablespoonful  each  of  carrot  3  cloves. 

and  onion.  J  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

J  can  of  tomatoes.  i  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan ;  add  the 
chopped  onion  and  carrot,  and  let  slightly  brown;  add  the  flour 
and  cook  five  minutes,  stirring  constantly.  Then  add  the  toma- 
toes, cloves,  bay-leaf,  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  slowly  for  half  an 
hour,  or  until  the  tomatoes  are  soft  and  reduced  to  right  con- 


286  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

sistency.  Then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  (a  small  piece  at 
a  time  to  prevent  an  oily  line);  strain;  add  more  salt  and 
pepper  if  necessary. 

MUSHROOM  SAUCE 

(using  canned  mushrooms) 

Make  a  brown  roux,  using  one  tablespoonful  eacb  of  butter 
and  of  flour ;  add  a  cupful  of  stock  and  a  half  cupful  of  liquor 
from  the  can  of  mushrooms.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring 
all  the  time ;  then  add  one  can  of  drained  mushrooms,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  quar- 
ter teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Let  the  mushrooms  become  well 
heated;  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  the  yolk  of  one 
raw  egg  rubbed  with  a  teaspoonful  of  butter.  Stir  the  hot 
sauce  until  the  egg  is  set ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  pars- 
ley and  serve ;  or  a  haK  teaspoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet  may  be 
used  and  the  egg  and  parsley  omitted. 

This  sauce  may  be  served  on  the  same  dish  with  beefsteaks, 
fowls,  etc.,  and  the  mushrooms  laid  evenly,  top  side  up, 
around  the  meat  as  a  garnish. 

It  may  be  made  a  white  sauce  by  making  a  white  roux, 
using  white  stock  and  leaving  out  the  kitchen  bouquet.  The 
mushrooms  are  sometimes  cut  into  halves  or  quarters. 

maItre  d'hotel  sauce 

(broiled  fish  and  steaks) 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  1  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

1  tablespoonful  of  chopped         ^  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
parsley.  J  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Rub  the  butter  to  a  cream;  add  salt,  pepper,  and  parsley 
chopped  very  fine ;  then  the  lemon- juice  slowly.  Spread  it  on 
broiled  meat  or  fish ;  let  the  heat  of  the  meat  melt  the  butter. 
The  dish  must  not  be  put  in  the  oven  after  the  sauce  is  spread, 
or  the  parsley  will  lose  its  freshness  and  color.  This  sauce, 
which  greatly  improves  as  well  as  garnishes  broiled  meat,  can 
be  mixed  and  kept  for  some  time  in  a  cool  place.    Soften  a  little 


SAUCES  287 

before  using  so  it  will  spread  evenly,  and  be  quickly  melted  by 
the  hot  meat. 

MINT  SAUCE 

(spring  lamb) 

1  bunch  of  mint ;  1  tablespoonf ul  of  sugar ;  f  cupful  of  vinegar. 
Rinse  the  mint  in  cold  water ;  chop  it  very  fine.  Dissolve  the 
sugar  in  the  vinegar ;  add  the  mint  and  let  stand  for  an  hour, 
to  infuse  before  using.  If  the  vinegar  is  too  strong,  dilute  it 
with  cold  water.  If  the  sauce  is  wanted  hot,  heat  the  vinegar 
and  sugar,  and  stir  in  the  chopped  mint  just  before  serving. 

BREAD  SAUCE     ' 
(partridges,  quail,  grouse) 

Sift  two  cupfuls  of  dry  bread-crumbs.  Put  on  the  fire  a  pint 
of  milk  and  a  small  onion  sliced.  When  the  milk  is  scalded 
remove  the  onion,  and  add  enough  of  the  fine  crumbs  to  thicken 
it.  Season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  half  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  a  dash  of  pepper  and  of  nutmeg.  Put  the  coarse 
crumbs  into  a  pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  saute 
them  a  light  brown,  stirring  all  the  time ;  add  a  dash  of  paprica ; 
serve  the  fried  crumbs  on  the  dish  with  the  game;  serve  the 
sauce  in  a  boat. 

JELLY  SAUCE 

(GAME  AND  MUTTON) 

Melt  in  a  saucepan  one  tumblerful  of  currant  or  of  grape 
jelly;  add  slowly  one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Let  boil  one 
minute ;  remove,  and  just  before  serving  add  one  tablespoonful 
of  sherry  or  of  red  wine. 

CRANBERRY  SAUCE 

(roast  turkey,   CHICKEN,   MUTTON) 

1  quart  of  cranberries.  2  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

2  cupfuls  of  water. 
Pick  over  the  berries  carefuUy  and  wash  in  cold  water.    Put 
them  in  a  porcelain-lined  or  granite- ware  saucepan,  with  enough 


288  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

w^ater  to  cover  them.  Cook  until  tender ;  then  add  the  sugar, 
and  remove  as  soon  as  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  It  may  be  served 
hot  or  cold.  If  thoroughly  cooked  the  skins  improve  the  sauce. 
If  strained  and  put  in  a  mold  to  cool,  it  becomes  a  jelly.  If 
the  berries  are  carefully  selected,  and  boiled  slowly  without 
being  stirred,  they  will  retain  their  shape,  and  the  sauce  wiU  be 
clear  and  transparent. 

APPLE  SAUCE 

(GOOSE  AND  pork) 

Peel,  quarter,  and  core  six  tart  apples.  Put  them  in  a  porce- 
lain-lined or  granite-ware  saucepan,  and  cover  with  water.  Boil 
until  tender,  then  press  them  through  a  colander ;  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter,  a  dash  of  nutmeg  or  cinnamon,  and  sweeten 
to  taste.    When  used  with  meats  apple  sauce  should  be  tart. 

BEARNAISE 

This  is  a  very  good  sauce  to  use  either  hot  or  cold  with  meats 
and  fish.    It  is  very  like  Mayonnaise. 

Yolks  of  4  eggs.  4  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil. 

^  teaspoonful  of  salt.  1  tablespoouful  of  hot  water. 

Dash  of  cayenne.  1  tablespoouful  of  tarragon 

vinegar. 

Beat  the  yolks;  add  the  oil  and  water;  stand  the  bowl  in 
boiling  water  and  stir  until  the  eggs  thicken ;  remove  and  add 
salt,  pepper,  and  vinegar.  It  should  be  creamy  and  of  the  con- 
sistency of  Mayonnaise.  A  few  chopped  capers,  olives,  and 
gherkins  make  it  a  good  Tartare  sauce;  and  a  little  tomato 
pur6e  will  make  it  a  red  Mayonnaise  to  use  with  cold  boiled  fish. 

HAYONKAISE 

Yolk  of  1  egg.  1    cupful  of  salad  oil. 

J  teaspoonful  of  salt.  IJ  teaspoonfuls  of 

Dash  of  cayenne.  lemon-juice. 

Let  the  oil  and  egg  be  thoroughly  chilled  before  beginning  to 
make  Mayonnaise.    In  summer  it  is  well  to  stand  the  soup- 


SAUCES  289 

plate  in  which  the  dressing  is  being  mixed  in  a  dish  of  cracked 
ice;  stir  constantly  with  a  silver  fork  or  a  wooden  spoon.  Have 
the  yolk  entirely  free  from  any  white  of  the  egg;  add  drop  by 
drop  the  oil.  The  success  depends  on  adding  the  oil  slowly  at 
first.  It  is  well  to  spend  half  the  time  in  incorporating  the  first 
two  spoonfuls  of  oil;  after  that  it  can  be  added  in  larger  quan- 
tities. After  the  dressing  has  become  a  little  thick,  alternate  a 
few  drops  of  lemon-juice  or  of  vinegar  with  the  oil;  a  little 
tarragon  vinegar  gives  good  flavor.  If  mustard  is  liked,  add 
one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  dry  mustard.  Add  the  salt  and 
pepper  last.  If  the  sauce  curdles,  take  another  yolk,  and 
add  slowly  the  curdled  Mayonnaise.  A  few  drops  of  ice  water 
or  a  small  bit  of  ice  added  to  the  mixture  when  it  begins  to 
curdle  will  sometimes  bring  it  back. 

This  dressing  will  keep  for  some  time  in  a  closed  jar  in  the 
ice-box.  The  proportions  given  are  right,  but  it  is  usually  de- 
sirable to  make  a  larger  quantity.  With  care  more  oil  can  be 
added  to  the  egg,  which  will  give  more  sauce. 

A  very  safe  mixture,  and  one  recommended  for  summer,  is 
made  by  using  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  with  a  raw  yolk. 
With  this  the  dressing  is  more  quickly  made  and  seldom  curdles. 
Lemon-juice  makes  a  whiter  dressing  than  vinegar,  but  it  also 
makes  it  a  little  softer. 

WHITE    MAYONNAISE 

Just  before  serving  add  to  the  above  quantity  of  Mayonnaise 
one  half  cupful  of  very  stiff  whipped  cream,  or  the  white  of 
one  half  an  egg  whipped  very  stiff. 

GREEN  MAYONNAISE 

Take  some  green  herbs,  such  as  chervil,  tarragon,  chives, 
parsley,  a  leaf  of  spinach,  lettuce  or  watercress,  and  pound 
them  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  lemon-juice.  Express  the  juice 
and  add  it  to  the  Mayonnaise.  It  is  then  called  Ravigote  sauce. 
Mashed  green  peas  may  be  used  to  give  color  and  also  more 
consistency  to  the  sauce  when  it  is  to  be  used  to  cover  cold  fish. 
A  little  vegetable  green  coloring  can  be  added  if  the  color  is 
not  sufiiciently  deep,  but  a  delicate  color  is  preferable. 

19 


290  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

BED  MATONNAISE 

Dry  some  lobster  coral ;  pound  it  to  a  powder  and  rub  it 
through  a  sieve;  mix  it  with  a  little  lemon-juice  and  add  it  to 
the  Mayonnaise.  Use  a  little  carmine  color  if  deeper  shade  is 
wanted.    Or,  color  with  well-strained  tomato  pur6e. 

JELLY  MAYONNAISE 

Instead  of  yolks  of  eggs,  use  aspic  jelly  as  a  medium  to  hold 
the  oil ;  mix  the  sauce  the  same  as  the  ordinary  Mayonnaise. 
Or,  to  a  cupful  of  aspic  jelly  (see  page  321)  or  chicken  aspic  add 
a  cupful  of  oil,  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  (one  half  being 
tarragon  if  convenient),  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  salt,  pepper, 
and  cayenne ;  stir  together  all  at  once,  the  jelly  being  warmed 
enough  to  be  liquid.  Place  it  on  ice  and  stir  until  it  begins  to 
set ;  keep  it  in  a  cool  place.  This  jelly  softens  easUy.  It  is 
used  to  coat  fish  or  meats,  and  should  be  put  on  when  a  little 
soft.  It  will  then  make  a  smooth  and  polished  surface.  Keep 
the  meats  coated  with  the  jelly  on  ice  until  ready  to  serve.  It 
is  used  also  for  salads  in  forms,  or  Russian  salads  (see  receipts). 

MAYONNAISE  WITH  ARROWROOT 

Smooth  a  tablespoonful  of  arrowroot  in  cold  water;  stir  it 
over  the  fire  until  it  becomes  smooth,  clear  and  firm  like  starch ; 
when  a  little  cooled,  add  salt,  pepper,  mustard,  and  two  or  three 
yolks,  and  beat  until  smooth ;  when  cold  add  oil  as  in  regular 
Mayonnaise.    This  mixture  will  not  curdle. 

TARTARE 

(pish  and  cold  meats) 

To  a  cupful  of  Mayonnaise  made  with  mustard,  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  capers,  three  olives,  and  two  gherkins,  all 
chopped  very  fine ;  also  the  juice  expressed  from  some  pounded 
green  herbs,  as  in  green  Mayonnaise  or  Ravigote  (see  above) ; 
or  chop  the  herbs  fine  and  mix  them  in  the  dressing.    A  good 


8AUCES  291 

Tartare  sauce  can  be  made  by  using  tarragon  vinegar  and  a 
little  onion-juice  when  mixing  tbe  Mayonnaise,  and  adding 
parsley  and  capers,  both  chopped  very  fine,  just  before  serving  it. 

AOBA  DOLCE 

(SOUR  SWEET) 

(an  ITALIAN  SAUCE  USED  WITH  VENISON,  SWEETBREADS,  CALF^S- 

HEAD,   AND  MUTTON) 

Mix  together  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sugar, 
one  quarter  bar  of  grated  chocolate,  one  tablespoonful  each  of 
shredded  candied  orange  and  lemon-peel,  ten  blanched  almonds 
shredded,  one  half  cupful  of  currants,  and  one  cupful  of  vinegar. 
Let  them  soak  for  two  hours.  Then  pour  it  over  the  cooked 
meat,  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes. 

This  receipt  was  obtained  in  Florence,  where  it  is  a  well-known 
and  favorite  sauce. 

BEURRE  NOIR  OR  BROWN  BUTTER  SAUCE 

(eggs,  calf's  HEAD,  CALP'S  BRAINS,  FISH) 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  and  let  it 
cook  slowly  until  it  has  browned,  then  add  three  tablespoon- 
fuls of  hot  vinegar,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and 
a  dash  of  pepper  and  of  salt. 


Chaptee  XII 

ENTRIES 

Entrees  are  the  dishes  served  between  any  of  the 
regular  courses. 

CROQUETTES 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS 

Croquettes  are  simply  minced  meat  mixed  with  a 
thick  sauce,  then  rolled  into  shape  and  fried.  Any 
kind  of  cooked  meat,  fish,  shell-fish,  hard-boiled  eggs, 
and  some  kinds  of  vegetables  may  be  served  as  cro- 
quettes. Croquettes  may  be  plain,  using  one  kind  of 
meat  alone,  or  made  richer  by  combining  with  it 
sweetbreads,  brains,  mushrooms,  truffles,  etc.    What- 

Shape.  ever  meat  mixture  is  used,  the  rules  for  sauce,  mold- 
ing, and  frying  are  the  same.  The  croquettes  may 
be  shaped  like  cylinders,  pyramids  or  chops.  The 
meat  should  be  chopped  very  fine.  (An  "  Enterprise 
Chopper"  is  recommended.)  They  should  be  very 
soft  and  creamy  inside,  and  should  be  fried  to  a  light 

How  to     golden  color  only.     Serve  them  on  a  napkin  and  gar- 

«erve.       nish  with  parsley. 


293 


KNTERPRISK    CHOPPER. 


CROQUETTES.      (SEE  PAGE  292.) 


ENTRIES  293 

THE  ENTERPRISE  CHOPPER 

This  simple  machine  minces  meat  very  fine,  and  is  useful  in 
making  croquettes,  forcemeat  for  stuflBngs,  etc.  Where  meat 
having  much  fiber  is  put  in  the  chopper,  it  soon  becomes  clogged. 
The  end  piece  can  then  be  taken  off,  and  the  fiber  clinging  to 
it,  which  stops  the  holes,  be  removed.  In  making  timbales  the 
meat  put  through  the  chopper  in  this  way,  and  then  pounded, 
will  sometimes  do  without  being  passed  through  a  sieve. 

SAUCE  FOB  CEOaUETTE  MIXTURE 

(To  this  amount  of  sauce  add  two  cupfuls  of  meat.) 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter.       1  teaspoonful  of  onion-juice. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.        1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  cupful  of  milk  or  cream.     ^  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 
1  egg.  Dash  of  cayenne. 

Dash  of  nutmeg. 

Put  the  cream  or  milk  in  a  double  boiler  and  scald  it.  Rub 
the  butter  and  flour  together.  Take  this  paste  on  a  spoon  and 
stir  it  in  the  scalding  milk  until  it  is  dissolved  from  the  spoon, 
and  the  sauce  has  become  thickened  and  consistent.  Add  the 
seasoning ;  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  a  beaten  egg 
(the  egg  may  be  omitted  if  desired).  Place  it  again  on  the  fire 
for  a  minute  to  cook  the  egg,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  and  add  two 
cupfuls  of  meat  minced  very  fine. 

Pour  this  mixture  on  a  flat  dish,  and  set  it  away  for  two 
or  more  hours.  It  will  then  be  stiffened  and  can  be  easily 
molded.  K  a  mixture  is  used  which  absorbs  the  sauce,  add 
more  than  the  quantity  given  in  receipt.  The  softer  the  mix- 
ture, the  more  creamy,  and  therefore  the  better  will  be  the  cro- 
quettes, and  if  allowed  to  stand  long  enough  the  molding  will 
not  be  difl&cult. 

TO  MOLD  CROaUETTES 

Take  a  tablespoonful  of  the  mixture  (this  will  make  a  cro- 
quette of  the  right  size  j  large  ones  are  likely  to  crack  open  in 


294  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

frying)  j  roll  it  lightly  between  the  hands  into  a  ball.  Have  a 
plentiful  supply  of  bread-crumbs  spread  evenly  on  a  board  j 
roll  the  ball  lightly  on  the  crumbs  into  the  shape  of  a  cylinder, 
and  flatten  each  end  by  dropping  it  lightly  on  the  board ;  put 
it  in  the  egg  (to  each  egg  add  one  tablespoonful  of  water,  and 
beat  together),  and  with  a  spoon  moisten  the  croquette  com- 
pletely with  the  egg ;  lift  it  out  on  a  knife-blade,  and  again 
roll  lightly  in  the  crumbs.  Have  every  part  entirely  covered, 
so  there  will  be  no  opening  through  which  the  grease  may  be 
absorbed.  Wliere  a  light  yellow  color  is  wanted,  use  fresh 
white  crumbs  grated  from  the  loaf  (or  rubbed  through  a  pur6e 
sieve)  for  the  outside,  and  do  not  use  the  yolk  of  the  egg. 
Coarse  fresh  crumbs  are  used  for  fish  croquettes,  which  are 
usually  made  in  the  form  of  chops,  or  half  heart  shape.  A 
smaU  hole  is  pricked  in  the  pointed  end  after  frying,  and  a 
sprig  of  parsley  inserted.  For  lobster  croquettes  a  small  claw 
is  used  instead  of  the  parsley.  Cracker-crumbs  are  used  where 
a  smooth  surface  is  wanted.  Have  all  the  croquettes  of  per- 
fectly uniform  size  and  shape,  and  lay  them  aside  on  a  dish, 
not  touching  one  another,  for  an  hour  or  more  before  frying. 
This  win  make  the  crust  more  firm. 

The  white  of  an  egg  alone  may  be  used  for  egging  them,  but 
not  the  yolk  alone.  Whip  the  egg  with  the  water,  just  enough 
to  break  it,  as  air-bubbles  in  the  egg  will  break  in  frying,  and 
let  the  grease  penetrate. 

TO  FEY  CEOaUETTES 

Let  the  fat  become  smoking  hot ;  then  test  it  with  a  piece  of 
bread.  If  the  bread  colors  while  you  count  forty  (twenty  sec- 
onds), it  is  right.  It  is  weU  to  put  the  frying-pot  on  the  fire  an 
hour  before  it  is  needed,  so  it  will  be  hot,  and  ready  to  be 
raised  quickly  to  the  right  degree.  After  dipping  the  frying- 
basket  in  the  fat  to  grease  it,  lay  in  it  four  croquettes  so  that 
they  do  not  touch  one  another,  and  immerse  them  in  the  fat. 
Cook  only  long  enough  to  attain  a  delicate  color.  Let  them 
drain  a  moment  over  the  hot  fat ;  then  lift  them  from  the  bas- 


ENTRfiES  295 

ket  with  the  hand  (if  done  quickly  the  hand  wHl  not  be  burned) 
and  place  on  a  brown  paper  on  the  hot  shelf  or  in  the  open 
oven  until  all  are  ready.  Do  not  fry  more  than  four  at  one 
time,  as  more  would  reduce  the  heat  of  the  fat  too  much.  Let 
the  fat  become  smoking  hot  before  each  immersion  of  croquettes. 
Hang  the  basket  on  a  long  iron  spoon  so  the  hand  will  not  be 
burned  by  the  spattering  fat. 

MATERIALS  USED  FOB  CROQUETTES 

CHICKEN  CROQUETTES 

Chop  the  chicken  very  fine,  using  the  white  meat  alone,  or 
the  dark  meat  alone,  or  both  together.  Season  with  salt,  pep- 
per, onion-juice,  and  lemon- juice.  Chopped  mushrooms,  sweet- 
breads, calf's  brains,  tongue,  ham  or  truffles  are  used  with 
chicken,  and  a  combination  of  two  or  more  of  them  much  im- 
proves the  quality  of  the  croquettes. 

VEAL  CROQUETTES 

Veal  is  of  ten  mixed  with  chicken,  or  is  used  alone  as  a  substi- 
tute for  chicken.  Season  in  same  manner  and  make  the  same 
combinations. 

SWEETBREAD  CROQUETTES 

Cut  the  boiled  sweetbreads  into  small  dice  with  a  silver  knife. 
Mix  with  mushrooms,  using  half  the  quantity  of  mushrooms 
that  you  have  of  sweetbreads.    Use  two  eggs  in  the  sauce. 

OYSTER  CROQUETTES 

Scald  the  oysters ;  cut  them  into  small  pieces  with  a  silver- 
plated  knife. 

LOBSTER  CROQUETTES  (see  page  138) 
PISH  CROQUETTES  (see  pages  121  and  126) 

MEAT  AND  BOILED  HOMINY  CROQUETTES 

Equal  proportions. 


296  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

MEAT,  EICE,  AND  TOMATO  CROQUETTES 

Equal  proportions  of  meat  and  boiled  rice:  moisten  with 
tomato  pur6e. 

MACARONI  CROQUETTES 

Boil  the  macaroni  in  salted  water  until  tender ;  let  it  cool ; 
then  cut  into  pieces  one  quarter  inch  long,  forming  rings.  To 
a  cupful  of  the  rings  add  one  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese. 

The  sauces  to  serve  with  croquettes  are  brown,  Bechamel, 
Poulette,  and  Tomato. 

TIHBALES 

Timbales  are  forms  of  pastry  or  of  forcemeat  filled 
with  salpicon.  They  are  made  in  individual,  bor- 
der,  or  cylinder  molds.  The  receipts  below  give  the 
rules  for  making  the  pastry,  forcemeat,  and  salpicon, 
and  the  combinations.  For  forcemeat,  the  raw  meat 
is  used,  and  may  be  used  alone  or  mixed  with  panada: 
in  the  latter  case  it  is  called  Quenelle  forcemeat.  Cut 
the  meat  or  fish  in  pieces  (excepting  chicken,  which  is 
General  scraped),  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar  to  separate  the 
directionB.  flgg]^  from  the  fiber,  then  press  it  through  a  puree 
sieve.  Do  not  chop  the  meat,  as  the  fiber  is  not  then 
so  easily  separated.  If  the  meat  pulp  is  mixed  with 
panada,  press  it  through  the  sieve  again  so  the  paste 
will  be  perfectly  smooth  and  fine.  Trufles  are  used 
in  decorating  the  molds  and  in  the  salpicon.  The 
little  bits  left  from  the  decoration  are  chopped  an^ 
used  in  the  salpicon  or  in  a  sauce. 

TRUFFLES 

Truffles  can  be  bought  in  tins,  and  as  very  little  is  used  at  a 
time  they  are  not  as  expensive  as  at  first  appears.  To  preserve 
truffles  left  over  in  an  opened  can,  drain  them  from  the  liquor 
and  roll  them  in  melted  paraffine  or  in  melted  suet.    With  the 


PONTAGE  IRON   AND  CUPS.      (SEE   PAGE   300.1 


<t***'««*-W»>»' 


ITI;i:i:    SII.NI.    AMI    .MiilMAK. 


HINGED  MOLD  AND  INDIVIDUAL  TIMBALE   MOLDS. 


ENTRIES  297 

air-tight  covering  which  either  of  these  things  gives,  the  truffles 
can  be  kept  in  the  refrigerator  for  an  indefinite  time. 

CREAM  CHICKEN  FORCEMEAT 

Cut  the  breast  from  a  chicken  or  turkey,  also  the  white  meat 
from  the  wings ;  remove  the  skin  and  fat,  and  with  a  knife 
scrape  the  meat  so  as  to  free  it  from  the  sinews.  Place  the 
scraped  meat  in  a  mortar  and  pound  it  to  a  paste ;  incorporate 
into  it  gradually,  while  pounding,  the  white  of  an  egg ;  this  will 
moisten  it  a  little  so  it  will  pass  more  easily  through  the  sieve„ 
After  it  is  thoroughly  macerated,  take  a  little  at  a  time  and 
with  the  pestle  or  spoon  rub  it  through  a  sieve ;  it  passes  through 
better  when  a  little  is  worked  at  a  time.  Put  the  pulp  in  a 
bowl,  season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  dash  of  nutmeg.  Set 
the  bowl  on  cracked  ice  and  stir  in  slowly  (as  you  add  oil  to 
Mayonnaise)  one  or  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  thick  cream — 
some  mixtures  take  more  cream  than  others ;  stir  continually, 
using  a  wire  whip  if  convenient.  When  it  is  a  consistent  paste, 
try  it  by  dropping  a  half  teaspoonful  in  hot  (not  boiling)  water 
and  let  it  poach ;  if  it  is  too  thick  add  more  cream,  if  too  thin 
add  a  little  beaten  white  of  egg.  The  sample  should  poach 
for  ten  minutes,  and  when  cut  should  be  smooth  and  firm,  but 
not  tough. 

CREAM  FORCEMEAT,   No.  2. 

To  one  half  pound  of  meat  pulp  add  five  ounces  of  butter, 
one  whole  egg,  and  four  yolks,  or  the  whites  alone  of  four  eggs 
if  used  with  white  meat ;  beat  very  thoroughly  together ;  pass 
again  through  the  sieve;  place  on  ice  and  beat  in  slowly  one 
pint  of  whipped  cream — three  quarters  of  a  cupful  of  cream  will 
make  about  the  right  amount  after  being  whipped. 

FISH  CREAM  FORCEMEAT 

Scrape,  pound,  and  pass  through  a  sieve  one  pound  of  firm 
white  fish.  Put  the  pulp  in  a  bowl,  season  with  salt,  pepper 
and  cayenne;  whip  into  it  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  add 


298  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

slowly,  beating  all  the  time,  about  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of 
cream.  Poach  a  small  piece  to  see  if  right:  if  too  thick  add 
more  cream,  if  too  thin  add  more  white  of  egg.  A  pretty  deco- 
ration for  flsh  timbale,  especially  when  made  of  salmon,  is  lob- 
ster coral,  dried  and  pounded  to  powder,  and  sprinkled  on  the 
buttered  mold.  Fish  timbale  is  usually  made  in  a  solid  piece 
and  served  as  a  fish  course.  With  white  fish  serve  a  tomato 
sauce  J  with  salmon  a  Poulette  or  a  cream  sauce,  or  Mayonnaise. 

aXJENELLE  FOBCEMEAT 

To  one  cupful  of  meat-pulp,  after  it  is  rubbed  through  the 
sieve,  add  one  half  cupful  of  panada,  one  quarter  cupful  of 
butter,  yolks  of  three  eggs,  salt,  pepper,  and  dash  of  nutmeg. 
Stir  well  together  and  pass  again  through  the  sieve.  Place  on 
ice  and  add  slowly  one  cupful  of  cream.  Try  by  poaching  a 
small  piece  to  see  if  it  is  of  the  right  consistency.  A  good 
white  sauce  or  tomato  pur^e  may  be  substituted  for  the  cream 
in  some  cases.  This  forcemeat  is  used  the  same  as  cream  force- 
meat. 

BREAD  FAKADA 

Soak  the  crumb  of  bread;  express  the  water  and  place  the 
bread  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire.  Stir  it  to  a  paste  with  milk  or 
stock,  and  continue  to  stir  until  it  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan. 

FLOUB  PANADA 

Put  a  little  water,  milk  or  stock  in  a  saucepan ;  add  a  little 
butter  and  salt,  and  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  will  absorb  the 
liquid.    Stir  constantly  until  it  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan. 

TO  MOLD  AND  COOK  TIMBALES 

Rub  the  mold  well  with  butter  j  ornament  it  with  truffle, 
tongue,  ham,  or  hard-boiled  egg.  Cut  the  truffle,  or  other  article 
used  for  the  decoration,  in  very  thin  slices  and  stamp  it  into 
fancy  shapes  with  a  cutter,  or  cut  it  with  a  knife.    Arrange  the 


ENTBl^S  299 

pieces  in  some  design  on  the  mold ;  they  will  stay  in  place  if 
the  mold  is  well  buttered.  Put  in  the  forcemeat  carefully  with 
a  knife,  press  it  well  against  the  sides  to  force  out  any  air-bub- 
bles, and  have  a  care  not  to  displace  the  decoration.  If  the  tim- 
bale  is  to  be  filled  with  salpicon,  make  a  layer  of  the  forcemeat 
from  a  quarter  to  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  according  to 
the  size  of  mold,  using  enough  to  give  stability  to  the  form 
when  unmolded  j  make  it  a  little  thicker  at  the  base  than  at  the 
top  and  leave  a  smooth  surface  inside ;  fill  it  with  the  salpicon 
and  cover  the  top  with  forcemeat,  pressing  from  the  sides 
towards  the  center  j  draw  the  knife  across  the  top  so  it  will  be 
smooth  and  even,  and  stand  straight  and  firm  when  unmolded. 
Stand  the  mold  or  molds  in  a  pan  of  water,  covering  them  one 
half  or  a  little  more.  Cover  them  with  a  greased  paper  and  let 
them  poach  in  a  slow  oven  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  for  small, 
and  twenty  minutes  for  large  molds.  If  the  center  feels  firm  to 
the  touch  they  are  done.  The  water  must  not  be  allowed  to  boil ; 
slow  cooking  is  necessary  to  have  them  tender.  Let  the  molds 
stand  a  minute  in  the  water,  then  invert  on  a  cloth  to  let  the 
moisture  drain  off,  and  unmold  them  on  the  dish  on  which  they 
are  to  be  served. 


SALPICON 

Cooked  veal,  chicken,  game,  sweetbreads,  calf  s  brains,  livers, 
fish,  oysters,  lobster,  mushrooms,  trufl9.es,  tongue,  etc.,  when  cut 
into  dice  and  mixed  with  a  rich  sauce  is  called  salpicon.  It  is 
used  for  filling  timbales,  vol-au-vent,  patties,  croustades,  etc. 
It  may  also  be  served  in  paper  boxes,  or  shells,  or  fontage  cups. 
It  may  be  made  of  one  kind  of  meat,  but  is  usually  a  mixture 
of  two  or  more,  with  mushrooms  and  truflles.  The  meats  are 
cut  into  small  dice  and  warmed  with  a  sauce  which  goes  weU 
with  the  meats  used.  The  sauce  must  be  reduced  until  quite 
thick,  and  enough  of  it  used  to  make  the  mixture  very  creamy. 
For  dark  meat  use  an  Espagnole,  brown  or  mushroom  sauce ; 
for  white  meat,  Bechamel,  AUemande  or  Poulette  sauce. 


300  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

FONTAGE  CUPS 

(used  fob  oyster-crabs,  salpicon,  creamed 
sweetbreads,  etc.) 
Make  a  batter  of  one  half  cupful  of  flour,  yolk  of  one  egg,  one 
quarter  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil,  and 
enough  milk  or  water  to  make  the  batter  thin.  Let  it  stand  for 
an  hour  or  two.  Beat  it  well  together,  and  have  the  batter  very 
smooth;  strain  it  if  there  are  any  lumps.  Have  a  pot  of  hot  fat ; 
place  the  fontage  iron  in  the  fat  until  it  is  thoroughly  hot,  then 
dip  it  in  the  batter,  and  hold  it  there  a  moment  until  a  coating 
of  batter  has  adhered ;  place  it  again  in  the  hot  fat  until  the 
cup  is  cooked  a  delicate  color,  and  can  be  detached  from  the 
iron.  Repeat  the  operation  until  all  are  made,  and  keep  them 
in  a  warm  dry  place  until  used.  This  amount  of  batter  will 
make  twelve  cups. 

PAUr  DE  VOLAILLE 

Make  a  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (see  page  297).  Butter  in- 
dividual timbale  molds,  decorate  them  with  truffles,  fill  with 
forcemeat,  and  poach  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  in  slow  oven. 
Serve  with  an  Allemande  sauce. 

Or,  line  the  molds  with  forcemeat ;  fill  them  with  salpicon  made 
of  the  dark  meat  of  the  chicken  and  mushrooms;  mix  with  Es- 
pagnole  or  a  good  brown  sauce;  cover  the  top  well  with  force- 
meat, and  poach  as  directed. 

Or,  use  a  charlotte  russe  mold;  line  it  a  half  inch  thick  with 
forcemeat,  and  use  the  same  salpicon,  adding  small  egg  balls  or 
quenelles,  a  few  pieces  of  tongue,  and  a  truffle  chopped  very  fine. 

Or,  use  a  border  mold  for  the  forcemeat,  and  fill  the  center  of 
the  ring,  when  unmolded,  with  the  salpicon. 

aUENELLES 

These  are  quenelle  forcemeat  formed  into  small  balls,  the  balls 
rolled  in  flour  and  poached,  then  used  in  salpicon;  or,  with  two 
tablespoons,  the  forcemeat  may  be  molded  into  egg-shaped 
pieces,  poached  in  hot  salted  (not  boiling)  water,  and  ranged  on 


CHICKEN  TIMBALE  — FILLING  OF  SALPICON  ;    DF.CORATION  OF  TRUFFLES. 


INDIVIDUAL  TIMBALE8. 
TIMBALES  OF  ANY  FORCEMEAT  ;    DECORATION  OF  TRUFFLES. 


FISH  TIMBALE  DECORATED  WITH 
SLICES  OF  CUCUMBER  FICKLE. 


ENTEfiES  301 

a  socle;  or  they  may  be  placed  on  a  dish  in  a  circle.  The  two 
latter  forms  of  quenelles  are  served  with  a  sauce  as  an  entr6e. 
Fish  quenelles  with  tomato  sauce  make  a  very  good  dish.  Large 
quenelles  for  decorating  dishes  may  be  made  by  molding  the 
forcemeat  into  fancy  shapes  with  a  knife  on  buttered  white 
paper  (the  paper  will  become  detached  while  they  are  poaching). 
The  quenelles  may  be  ornamented  with  trufftes  or  tongue,  using 
white  of  egg  to  make  the  decoration  adhere.  Use  salted  water 
for  poaching  them,  and  do  not  let  it  boil. 

PALMETTES 

Press  forcemeat  into  rings  or  cutlet  molds;  partly  poach 
them.  Unmold,  roll  in  egg  and  crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat. 
Serve  with  a  sauce. 

GELESTINES  A  LA  MAINTENON 

Take  some  quenelle  forcemeat  (see  page  298).  Add  to  it  a 
little  juice  from  a  can  of  truffles,  one  truffle  chopped  fine,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  mushrooms  chopped  fine,  and  a  few  bits  of 
ham,  or  tongue.  Mix  well  together,  and  stir  in  enough  cream 
to  make  it  quite  soft.  Butter  some  cutlet  molds,  or  some  rings. 
Fill  them  with  the  mixture;  smooth  them  with  a  knife,  and 
place  them  on  the  bottom  of  a  large  saucepan.  Pour  enough 
boiling  water  to  cover  them  carefully  on  the  sides  of  the  pan,  so 
it  will  go  into  the  pan  without  defacing  the  forcemeat;  let  them 
poach  for  five  minutes  without  the  water  boiling.  The  cutlets 
will  leave  the  molds,  and  rise  to  the  top.  Lift  them  out  with  a 
skimmer,  and  place  on  an  inverted  pan  to  cool.  When  perfectly 
cold,  dry  them  lightly  with  a  napkin,  and  cover  each  one  with 
Villeroi  sauce  (see  page  280).  Set  aside  to  let  the  sauce  harden. 
Sprinkle  with  bread-crumbs;  moisten  with  egg  and  cover  with 
fresh  crumbs  grated  from  the  leaf.  Use  a  broad  knife  to 
handle  them  with  when  crumbing.  Fry  in  hot  fat,  like  cro- 
quettes, to  an  amber  color.  Serve  with  Bechamel  or  Poulette 
sauce. 


302  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

BOUDIKS  SOTTENNAIS 

Line  well-buttered  individual  molds  with  a  cream  forcemeat 
made  of  veal  or  chicken ;  fill  the  center  with  a  forcemeat  made 
of  duck  or  any  game.  Cover  the  top  with  a  white  forcemeat, 
and  smooth  it  off  even  with  the  mold.  Poach  them  for  ten 
minutes.  Unmold,  and  let  them  cool;  then  cover  with  egg  and 
fresh  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  to  an  amber  color. 
Serve  with  them  an  Espagnole  or  a  brown  sauce. 

HAGABOKI  TIMBALE 

Cook  until  tender  in  salted  water  long  pieces  of  spaghetti, 
or  fine  macaroni.  Put  it  into  the  water  slowly,  and  it  can  then 
be  turned  so  it  wiU  not  break.  Lay  the  pieces  straight  on  a 
napkin  to  cool.  Butter  well  a  dome-shaped  mold.  Wind  the 
spaghetti  around  the  mold,  holding  it  in  place,  as  you  proceed, 
with  a  layer  of  forcemeat.  Fill  the  center  with  boiled  maca- 
roni and  cheese,  mixed  with  a  well-reduced  Bechamel  sauce; 
or  fill  the  timbale  with  a  salpicon  of  sweetbreads  and  mush- 
rooms. Make  the  layer  of  forcemeat  thick  enough  to  give  the 
timbale  stability.  Cover  it  with  a  greased  paper,  stand  it  in  a 
pan  of  hot  water,  and  poach  in  a  slow  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 
This  timbale  may  also  be  made  in  individual  molds. 

HONETCOMB  TIMBALE 

(A  VERY  SIMPLE  LUNCHEON  DISH) 

Boil  in  salted  water  large-sized  macaroni.  When  cold  cut  it 
into  pieces  one  quarter  of  an  inch  long,  making  rings.  Butter 
a  plain  dome-shaped  mold,  and  cover  it  with  the  rings.  Fill 
the  mold  with  minced  uncooked  chicken,  turkey,  or  veal,  mixed 
with  cream  sauce.  Add  three  or  four  eggs  to  the  creamed 
mince  Just  before  putting  it  into  the  mold.  Unless  the  eggs 
are  added,  it  will  not  have  stiffness  enough  to  hold  in  shape. 
Cover  the  mold  with  a  greased  paper.  Place  it  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water,  and  poach  in  a  slow  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 


ENTRIES  303 

This  timbale  may  also  be  made  of  any  cooked  meat  as  fol- 
lows: Put  the  meat  through  an  "Enterprise"  chopper.  Make  a 
sauce,  using  two  tablespoonf uls  each  of  butter  and  flour,  a  cup- 
ful of  milk,  and  a  cupful  of  stock.  After  the  liquid  is  added  to 
the  roux  put  in  a  slice  of  onion  and  two  dried  mushrooms,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  quarter  teaspoonful  pepper.  Let  it 
cook  until  a  little  thickened.  Add  half  the  strained  sauce  to 
the  minced  meat.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  until  the  meat  is  heated ; 
remove  from  the  fire,  add  two  beaten  eggs,  and  turn  it  into  a 
a  quart  timbale  mold,  which  is  lined  with  macaroni  in  any  of  the 
forms  given  in  illustrations.  Cover  the  mold  with  a  greased 
paper.  Place  it  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  poach  for  twenty 
minutes.    Serve  the  rest  of  the  sauce  with  the  cooked  timbale. 

A  SIMPLE  TIMBALE  OF  HALIBUT 

Take  a  half  pound  of  uncooked  halibut.  Cut  it  into  fine 
pieces,  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve.  Mix 
a  cupful  of  white  bread-crumbs  with  a  half  cupful  of  milk,  and 
stir  until  it  makes  a  smooth  paste;  remove  it  from  the  fire,  add 
the  fish  pulp,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash  of  paprica. 
Then  beat  in  lightly,  a  little  at  a  time,  the  whipped  whites 
of  five  eggs.  Fill  buttered  timbale  molds  with  the  mixture, 
and  place  them  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
twenty  minutes.  This  will  fill  a  quart  mold,  or  eight  individual 
molds.    Serve  with  a  white  or  with  a  tomato  sauce. 

PASTRY  TIMBALE 

Make  a  paste,  using  to  one  pound  of  flour  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  four  yolks,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one 
and  a  half  cups  of  water.  "Work  it  well,  roll  it  one  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  cover,  and  set  it  aside  for  one  hour.  Butter  a  timbale- 
mold,  and  line  it  with  the  paste.  If  ornamentation  is  wanted, 
cut  some  noodle  paste  into  fancy  forms.  Arrange  the  pieces  in 
some  design  on  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  mold,  and  brush 
them  with  a  little  water  before  putting  in  the  paste.    With 


304  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

a  cutter  or  knife  stamp  out  a  circle  in  the  paste  on  the  bottom 
of  the  mold,  but  do  not  remove  it.  Then  with  a  buttered  paper 
cover  the  whole  inside  surface  of  the  paste.  Fill  the  center 
with  flour.  Cover  the  top  with  buttered  paper,  buttered  side 
up;  then  a  layer  of  paste,  and  press  it  to  the  paste  of  the  sides. 
Set  it  aside  for  half  an  hour.  Bake  it  in  a  hot  oven  for  fifty- 
minutes.  Unmold,  take  off  the  circle  which  was  cut  in  the 
paste;  remove  the  paper  and  flour.  Brush  the  timbale  all  over, 
inside  and  out,  with  yolk  of  egg,  aud  place  it  in  the  oven  to 
brown.    Fill  it  with  salpicon. 

POTATO  AND  FISH  TIMBALE 

(for  luncheon  OR  breakfast) 

Butter  a  plain  mold.  Sprinkle  it  with  white  bread-crumbs. 
Fill  it  with  mashed  potato  which  has  been  seasoned  and  mixed 
with  two  or  more  egg  yolks  aud  some  grated  cheese.  Bake  it 
for  forty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  With  a  pointed  knife 
cut  around  the  top  one  and  a  half  inches  from  the  edges;  lift 
off  the  piece,  and  with  a  spoon  scoop  out  the  potato,  leaving  a 
lining  one  and  a  half  inches  thick.  Brush  the  inside  with 
egg,  and  place  it  again  in  the  oven  to  dry  and  brown.  Fill 
the  center  with  creamed  fish;  replace  the  top  piece,  and  fill 
the  cut  with  potato  so  as  to  confine  the  fish.  Place  a  dish  over 
the  top,  invert  the  mold,  and  let  it  stand  a  few  minutes.  It 
will  then  come  out  of  the  mold.    Serve  with  a  white  sauce. 

VOL  AU  VEBTT 

Prepare  a  puff  paste  (see  page  458).  Roll  it  one  and  a  half 
inches  thick.  Cut  a  circle  six  to  six  and  a  half  inches  in 
diameter,  using  as  guide  a  pie-tin  or  cardboard,  if  a  regular 
cutter  is  not  at  hand.  Place  it  with  care  on  a  baking-tin,  and 
cut  a  smaller  circle  around  the  top,  one  and  a  half  inches  from 
the  edge,  and  two  thirds  through  the  paste.  Paint  over  the  top 
with  yolk  of  egg,  and  bake  it  in  a  hot  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 
Do  not  open  the  oven  door  for  the  first  fifteen  minutes.    When 


MACARONI  TIMBALE.      (SEE  PAGE  302.) 


SI'AOHETTI  TIMBALE8.     (SEE  PAGE  302.) 


UoMaCOMB  TIMBALE.      (8KE   PAGE  302.) 


ENTRIES  305 

baked,  lift  off  the  inside  circle.  Cut  out  the  uncooked  paste, 
paint  it  over  with  white  of  egg,  and  place  it  again  in  the  oven 
to  brown.  Keep  the  crust  hot  until  ready  to  serve.  Then 
fill  with  salpicon,  and  replace  the  cover,  or  small  circle  of  paste. 

PATTIES 

Prepare  patty  shells  as  directed  in  puff  paste  receipt  (page 
460).  Fill  them  with  oysters  (see  page  134),  with  lobster  (see 
page  140),  or  with  any  salpicon. 

RISSOLES 

RoU  puff  paste  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Place  on  it  at  in- 
tervals of  three  inches  from  the  edge  and  five  inches  apart, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salpicon,  or  of  creamed  minced  meat.  Moisten 
with  a  wet  brush  the  paste,  and  fold  it  over  the  balls  of  meat. 
With  the  finger  press  the  paste  together  lightly  around  the 
meat,  inclosing  it  like  a  small  pie.  Then  with  a  patty  or  biscuit- 
cutter  stamp  out  the  rissoles  in  shape  of  half-circles,  the  ball  of 
meat  being  on  the  straight  side,  and  a  border  of  paste  an  inch 
or  more  wide  on  the  rounded  side.  Egg  and  bread-crumb  them 
or  not,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.    Serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

TO  PREPARE  SWEETBREADS 

Soak  the  sweetbreads  in  cold  water  for  an  hour  or  more. 
Change  the  water  several  times,  so  that  all  the  blood  will  be 
extracted,  and  leave  the  sweetbreads  very  white.  Put  them  on 
the  fire  in  cold  water,  and  simmer  (not  boil)  for  twenty  minutes. 
Then  immerse  them  again  in  cold  water.  This  is  to  parboil 
and  blanch  them.  Remove  all  the  pipes,  strings,  and  fibers 
it  is  possible  to  do  without  breaking  the  sweetbreads  to  pieces. 
When  half  cold  tie  each  one  in  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth,  drawing 
it  tightly  into  an  oval  form,  and  place  them  under  a  light 
weight  until  cold.  They  will  then  be  smooth  and  a  uniform 
shape,  and  may  be  larded  with  fine  lardoons  if  desired.  Use  a 
silver  knife  for  cutting  sweetbreads. 
ao 


306  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

BAKED  SWEETBREADS 

Take  parboiled  larded  sweetbreads,  and  place  them  on  slices 
of  salt  pork  in  a  baking-pan.  Add  enough  stock  to  cover  well 
the  pan.  Cook  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  basting 
frequently.    Serve  with  a  brown  or  with  a  mushroom  sauce. 

BRAISED   SWEETBREADS 

Place  in  a  baking-pan  a  bed  of  vegetables  cut  in  small  dice, 
and  a  few  pieces  of  salt  pork.  Lay  parboiled  sweetbreads  on  it. 
Add  enough  water  or  stock  to  cover  the  vegetables.  Close  the 
pan  tight,  and  cook  for  forty  to  forty-five  minutes.  Uncover 
the  pan  the  last  fifteen  minutes  to  let  the  sweetbreads  brown. 
Paint  them  with  glaze.  Strain  the  liquor  from  the  pan;  thicken 
it  with  a  brown  roux,  and  serve  it  on  the  dish  under  the 
sweetbreads. 

SAUTED  SWEETBREADS 

Cut  the  parboiled  sweetbreads  in  slices  and  saut6  them  in 
butter ;  serve  with  green  peas. 

FRIED  SWEETBREADS 

Roll  the  sweetbreads  (either  whole  or  cut  in  slices)  in  egg 
and  crumbs ;  let  them  stand  for  a  time,  then  fry  in  hot  fat ; 
dress  them  on  a  folded  napkin  and  serve  with  them  a  Bechamel 
sauce.    They  may  also  be  dipped  in  fritter  batter  and  fried. 

SWEETBREADS  A  LA  POULETTE 

Simmer  the  sweetbreads  for  thirty  or  forty  minutes ;  blanch 
them,  then  cut  or  break  them  in  pieces  and  place  them  on  a 
dish.  Pour  over  them  a  B6chamel  or  a  Poulette  sauce.  Mush- 
rooms and  chopped  truflles  may  be  added  if  desired. 

CHAUDEROID  OF  SWEETBREADS 

Simmer  the  sweetbreads  until  cooked ;  blanch  and  tie  them  in 
cloth  as  directed  above,  or  place  them  in  muffin-rings  under 


ENTRIES  307 

pressure  until  cold;  cover  them  with  a  Chaudfroid  sauce  (see 
page  281).  Place  fancy  bits  of  truffle  on  the  top  lightly,  and 
when  the  sauce  has  set,  paint  it  over  with  liquid  aspic.  Arrange 
them  on  a  socle  or  on  a  mound  of  salad,  and  serve  with  them  a 
Mayonnaise  sauce  and  lettuce. 

CALFS  BRAINS 

Soak  the  brains  for  an  hour  in  cold  water ;  then  simmer  in 
water  containing  a  tablespoonf ul  of  vinegar  for  twenty  minutes ; 
an  Dnion,  thyme,  bay-leaf;  salt  and  peppercorns  in  the  water 
also  will  improve  the  flavor  of  the  brains ;  place  again  in  cold 
water  to  blanch ;  remove  the  skin  and  fibres,  and  cook  by  any 
of  the  receipts  given  for  sweetbreads.  The  boiled  brains  may 
also  be  served  with  any  of  the  following  sauces  poured  over 
them :  a  plain  white  sauce ;  a  white  sauce  with  chopped  mush- 
rooms; a  white  sauce  seasoned  with  mashed  yolks  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  a  little  mustard,  tarragon  vinegar  and  chopped 
parsley,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  pickle  added  just  before 
serving;  a  Vinaigrette  sauce;  a  HoUandaise  sauce;  a  tomato 
sauce ;  or  a  sauce  made  of  browned  butter  and  a  dash  of  vinegar. 

MARINADE  OF  BRAINS 

Boil  the  brains;  remove  the  skin  and  veins;  cut  them  into 
pieces  the  size  of  half  an  egg;  let  them  stand  an  hour  in  a 
marinade  of  oil,  vinegar,  onion,  pepper  and  salt ;  then  wipe  and 
dip  them  into  fritter  batter  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  Arrange  them 
on  a  napkin  and  serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

GAIT'S  HEAD  A  LA  VINAIGRETTE 

Place  pieces  of  hot  boiled  calf  s  head  in  the  center  of  a  dish ; 
split  the  tongue  in  two  and  lay  it  across  two  sides  of  the  dish, 
and  the  brains  on  the  opposite  sides ;  garnish  with  parsley  and 
serve  with  a  Vinaigrette  sauce,  or  with  a  Piquante  sauce. 

Vinaigrette  Sauce  (Cold)  :  Three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar,  one  teaspoonf  ul  each  of  grated  onion,  chopped 
parsley,  and  capers,  one  saltspoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper. 


308  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

FALSE  TEBBAFIN 

Cut  boiled  calf's  head  (see  page  175)  into  pieces  one  inch 
square;  break  into  pieces  the  boiled  brains.  Make  a  brown 
rouxj  add  to  it  water  in  which  the  calfs  head  was  boiled, 
in  the  same  proportion  as  for  white  sauce;  season  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  cayenne,  and  add  a  cupful  of  cream ;  then  put  in  the 
pieces  of  meat,  three  or  four  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs,  a  few 
small  egg  baUs,  and  a  glass  of  sherry;  serve  very  hot;  there 
should  be  a  half  more  sauce  than  meat. 

CALF'S  HEAD  A  LA  POULETTE 

Cut  boiled  calPs  head  into  pieces  one  inch  square ;  heat  them 
in  hot  water ;  drain  and  pUe  them  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish ; 
sprinkle  over  them  a  few  small  egg  balls,  and  pour  over  the 
whole  a  Poulette  sauce,  using  for  the  sauce  water  in  which 
the  calfs  head  was  boiled  in  the  place  of  chicken  stock. 

OTSTEB  OASES 

Line  buttered  paper  cases,  or  china  individual  cups,  with 
a  layer  of  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  (page  298),  or  with  the  fish 
preparation  given  in  receipt  for  fish  pudding  (page  123) ;  scald 
some  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  until  the  gills  curl ;  cut  each 
oyster  into  four  pieces  and  fill  the  center  of  the  cup  with  them ; 
pour  over  them  a  tablespoonful  of  Bechamel  sauce,  made  with 
oyster-liquor  in  place  of  stock;  cover  the  top  with  forcemeat, 
brush  it  over  with  butter  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fif- 
teen minutes. 

Cases  of  other  combinations  may  be  made  in  the  same  way ; 
using  mashed  potato  for  the  lining  and  any  creamed  meat  for 
filling ;  or  use  hominy  or  rice  with  chicken,  mushrooms,  etc. 

LIVEB  LOAF,  OB  FALSE  fAtE  DE  FOIE  GBAS 

Cut  a  calfs  liver  in  pieces ;  pound  it  in  a  mortar  and  press  it 
through  a  sieve;  add  to  one  cupful  of  liver  pulp  one  quarter 
cupful  of  flour  panada,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  butter  and 


ENTRIES  309 

salt;  one  half  teaspoonful  of  pepper ;  dash  each  of  cayenne  and 
of  nutmeg  and  allspice,  and  two  eggs.  Mix  well  together  and 
pass  it  again  through  the  sieve.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  well- 
buttered  pint  mold ;  place  it  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  in  the  oven 
for  forty-five  minutes  or  more.  An  ice-cream  brick-mold  makes 
a  loaf  of  convenient  shape.  It  may  be  served  hot  with  a 
brown  sauce;  but  is  better  cold  with  salad,  or  used  like  p^t6 
de  foie  gras.  A  loaf  of  any  game  may  be  made  in  the  same 
way.  The  loaf  may  be  made  very  ornamental  by  decorating  it 
with  pieces  of  truffle,  ham,  and  white  of  hard-boiled  eggs  cut 
into  diamond  shapes  and  fitted  together  to  look  like  blocks.  To 
arrange  this  decoration  use  two  molds  of  the  same  size ;  butter 
one  of  them  and  apply  carefully  the  decoration ;  line  the  other 
with  thin  slices  of  larding  pork  and  cook  the  liver  or  game 
mixture  in  it ;  when  it  is  cold  remove  the  pork,  and  this  will 
leave  it  small  enough  to  fit  into  the  decorated  mold.  Fill  the 
space  between  them  with  aspic  jelly  and  let  it  become  well  set 
before  unmolding  the  form. 

CHICKEN  LIVEBS 

Cut  the  gall  carefully  off  the  livers ;  dry  them  with  a  cloth 
and  cut  them  in  two  or  more  pieces.  Place  them  in  a  frying- 
pan  with  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  butter,  and  saute  until  cooked,  or 
about  five  minutes.  Turn  them  often,  so  they  will  not  burn,  and 
dredge  them  with  a  little  flour ;  add  one  cupful  of  Espagnole, 
or  of  brown  sauce,  and  one  half  cupful  of  Madeira ;  season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  let  simmer  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  If  the 
color  is  not  dark  enough,  add  a  few  drops  of  caramel  or  of 
kitchen  bouquet ;  serve  with  crolitons  around  the  dish,  or  in  a 
croustade,  or  in  fontage  cups. 

STUFFED   MUSHEOOMS 

Take  off  the  stalks  from  one  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms, 
peel  the  cups,  using  a  silver  knife,  and  drop  them  into  cold 
water  to  keep  them  white  (if  exposed  to  the  air  they  discolor). 
If  they  have  to  stand  for  some  time  put  a  little  lemon-juice  in 


810  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

the  water ;  scrape  the  stalks,  chop  them  and  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  half  onion 
sliced ;  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  one  tablespoonful 
of  flour  and  cook  that  five  minutes}  add  one  cupful  of  stock 
and  one  half  cupful  of  bread  crumbs ;  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  a  dash  of  cayenne.  Fill  the  cups  of  the  mushrooms  with 
this  mixture ;  sprinkle  with  crumbs  and  place  them  on  circles  of 
toasted  bread  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  the  size  of  the 
mushroom.    Bake  in  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  minutes. 

CHICKEN  PUREE 

Chop  cooked  chicken  very  fine;  pound  it  to  as  much  of  a 
paste  as  possible;  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  mix  it  with 
half  its  quantity  of  Chaudfroid  sauce  (see  page  281).  Coat  a 
mold  with  jelly  (see  page  323),  and  fill  it  with  the  mixture,  which 
must  be  cold  and  beginning  to  set ;  when  it  has  hardened,  turn 
it  onto  a  dish ;  garnish  with  lettuce  and  serve  with  it  a  Mayon- 
naise or  a  B6arnaise  sauce.  Game  may  be  used  in  the  same 
way.  Ornamented  individual  timbale  cups  may  also  be  used 
for  molding  the  puree. 

OYSTEB-CRABS 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  gill 
of  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  little  salt  and  white 
pepper.  When  the  liquid  is  warm,  put  a  few  of  the  crabs  in  at 
a  time  and  cook  until  they  begin  to  whiten,  then  skim  them  out 
and  keep  them  in  a  warm  place  until  all  are  cooked.  The 
liquid  must  only  simmer;  if  it  is  too  hot  the  crabs  will  break 
open.  The  crabs  should  be  just  moistened  with  the  sauce  in 
which  they  are  cooked.  Serve  in  croustades,  or  in  f outage  cups 
(see  page  300). 

ENTREE  OF  OYSTER-CRABS 

Use  for  this  entree  individual  shirred-egg  dishes.  Cut  slices 
of  bread  one  inch  thick;  with  a  biscuit-cutter  stamp  it  into 
circles  one  inch  smaller  than  the  egg  dish,  and  with  a  smaller 
cutter  stamp  out  the  center,  making  rings  of  the  bread  one 


TERRAPIN,  FROGS'  LEGS 


311 


inch  thick,  one  inch  wide,  and  one  inch  smaller  than  the  egg 
dishes.  Place  the  bread  rings  in  the  dishes  and  moisten  them 
with  cream ;  fill  the  space  outside  the  rings  with  oyster-crabs 
cooked  as  directed  above;  spread  one  layer  of  crabs  in  the 
center  of  each  ring  and  on  them  break  an  egg.  Cover  the  whole 
with  Bechamel  sauce  and  sprinkle  the  top  with  grated  Parmesan 
cheese.    Place  this  in  a  hot  oven  just  long  enough  to  set  the 

•      TERRAPIN,  FROGS'  LEGS 


TEBEAPIN 

Terrapin  measuring  six  inches  or  more  across  the 
bottom  shell  are  called  "  counts."  The  largest  do  not 
exceed  ten  inches;  the  average  size  is  seven  inches, 
and  weight  three  to  five  pounds.  The  counts  vary 
in  price  from  seventeen  to  eighty  dollars  a  dozen, 
according  to  size  and  weight. 

The  terrapin  which  are  most  esteemed,  and  which 
command  the  highest  price,  are  the  "  Diamond  Back," 
from  the  Chesapeake  Bay.  Probably  it  is  the  wild 
celery  of  this  region  which  gives  the  especially  prized 
flavor  to  the  terrapin  as  well  as  to  the  Canvasback 
ducks  taken  there.  Good  terrapin,  however,  are  taken 
in  Long  Island  waters  and  all  along  the  sea-coast. 

Terrapin  burrow  in  the  mud  as  soon  as  cold  wea- 
ther approaches  and  remain  there  until  May,  during 
which  time  they  grow  fat.  They  are  caught  during 
their  season  of  hibernation,  and  are  kept  in  cool,  dark 
places  packed  in  sea  grass  until  wanted ;  the  season 
for  eating  them  being  from  December  to  April.  Ter- 
rapin takenduring  thesummer  are  rankin  taste  anduu' 
fit  for  food,  and  are  confined  in  pens  and  fed  on  celery. 

The  female  terrapin  is  the  most  prized  on  account 
of  its  eggs,  terrapin-eggs,  as  served  in  the  stew,  being 
considered  a  great  delicacy. 


Connte. 


Diamond 
backs. 


Season. 


812  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

The  Maryland  style  of  cooking  terrapin  is  one  of 
the  most  esteemed.  A  simple  way  is  that  of  the 
Cooking.  Southern  negro,  who  places  the  "bird,"  as  he  calls 
it,  over  hot  coals  or  in  the  oven  until  cooked,  when 
the  under  shell  comes  off,  and,  removing  only  the 
gall,  he  eats  the  whole  of  the  contents  from  the  in- 
verted upper  shell,  seasoning  with  butter,  pepper, 
and  salt.  Before  hibernating,  the  terrapin  empties 
the  stomach  and  is  consequently  clean,  but  a  fastid- 
ious taste  prefers  to  have  the  terrapin  thoroughly 
washed,  and  the  entrails  and  lights  as  well  as  the  gall- 
sack  removed. 

It  is  of  the  greatest  importance  that  the  gall  should 
The  gall,  be  very  carefully  removed,  for,  if  the  sack  be  punc- 
tured or  in  any  way  injured,  so  that  the  liquid  touches 
the  liver  or  meat,  its  disagreeable  bitter  taste  will  in- 
fect the  entire  dish. 


TO  PREFABE  TERRAPIN 

Drop  the  live  terrapin  into  hot  water,  and  let  it  remain  until 
the  skin  can  be  removed  from  the  head  and  feet.  Then  remove, 
wash  in  several  changes  of  water,  take  off  the  skin  from  the 
head  and  feet  by  rubbing  it  with  a  cloth,  and  return  it  to 
fresh  scalding  water  to  cook  until  tender.  This  is  shown  by 
pressing  the  feet  between  the  fingers.  They  should  be  done  in 
forty-five  minutes  to  an  hour.  If  a  longer  time  is  required,  the 
terrapin  is  probably  not  a  good  one,  and  the  meat  will  be  stringy. 
Remove  as  soon  as  tender.  "When  cold,  cut  off  the  nails,  re- 
move the  shells,  take  out  very  carefully  the  gall-sack  from  the 
liver,  the  entrails,  lights,  heart,  head,  tail  and  white  muscles. 
Separate  the  pieces  at  the  joints,  divide  the  meat  into  pieces  an 
inch  and  a  haK  long,  and  do  not  break  the  bones.  Place  the 
meat,  cut  into  pieces,  the  terrapin  eggs  and  the  liver  in  a  pan, 
cover  with  water,  and  boil  again  until  the  meat  is  ready  to  drop 
from  the  bones. 


TERRAPIN,  FROGS'  LEGS  313 

STEWED  TEEEAFIN,  MAETLAND  STYLE 

Mash  the  yolks  of  eight  hard-boiled  eggs  and  mix  them  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  best  butter,  rubbing  them  to  a  smooth 
paste.  Put  a  pint  of  cream  in  a  double  boiler;  when  it  is 
scalded,  stir  in  the  egg  and  butter  until  smooth ;  season  with 
salt,  white  and  cayenne  pepper,  a  dash  of  nutmeg  and  allspice. 
Add  a  quart  of  terrapin  prepared  as  directed  above,  and  sim- 
mer for  ten  minutes,  or  until  the  terrapin  is  well  heated.  Just 
at  the  moment  of  serving  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry  or 
madeira ;  serve  very  hot.  Terrapin  is  often  served  in  individ- 
ual metal  cups  made  for  the  purpose,  so  as  to  insure  its  being 
hot;  but  with  care  to  have  all  the  dishes  hot,  the  stew  need  not 
be  allowed  to  get  cold  when  served  in  ordinary  deep  plates. 

TEEEAPIN  A  LA  NEWBUEG 

Put  in  a  saucepan  one  quart  of  terrapin  (prepared  as  directed, 
page  312),  a  half  pint  of  cream,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  best  but- 
ter. Let  it  cook  a  few  minutes ;  then  draw  it  aside,  and  add 
the  yolks  of  five  eggs  beaten  with  a  half  pint  of  cream.  Stir 
until  the  eggs  are  thickened ;  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  or  it  will 
curdle.  Season  with  salt,  white  pepper  and  paprica.  At  the 
moment  of  serving,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry.  Like  all 
Newburg  dishes  this  must  be  prepared  only  just  in  time  to 
serve,  or  it  wiH  curdle. 

FEIED  FEOGS'  LEGS 

Dip  the  skinned  frogs'  legs  in  milk ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  roll  them  in  flour.  Immerse  in  smoking  hot  fat 
until  cooked  to  a  delicate  color.    Serve  on  a  napkin. 

FEOGS'  LEGS  1  LA  POULETTE 

Saute  the  skinned  frogs'  legs  in  butter;  cook  some  fresh 
mushrooms  in  the  pan  at  the  same  time  if  convenient.  Place 
on  a  hot  dish  with  the  mushrooms,  and  pour  over  them  a 
Poulette  sauce  (see  page  280). 


MUSHROOMS 

(SEE  ALSO  PAGE  45) 

When  one  has  learned  to  distinguish  a  few  varie- 
ties of  the  edible  fungi,  a  delicious  acquisition  to  the 
menu  will  be  enjoyed. 

The  author  will  not  assume  the  responsibility  of 
instructing  how  to  distinguish  the  esculent  mush- 
rooms. There  are  books  and  colored  charts  which 
give  explicit  and  reliable  descriptions,  and  with  these 
one  can  easily  learn  to  know  a  few  of  them.  Acci- 
dents are  usually  the  result  of  carelessness  or  reck- 
lessness, many  of  the  poisonous  mushrooms  being  so 
attractive  in  appearance  as  to  invite  favor. 

Mushroom  hunting  is  akin  in  pleasure  to  botaniz- 
ing, geologizing,  or  the  gathering  of  any  natural  his- 
tory specimens.  It  is  not  always  easy  to  reject  the 
many  unfamiliar  kinds. 

In  gathering  mushrooms  they  should  be  cut,  not 
ga^er.     pulled,  and  laid  in  the  basket  with  the  gills  up,  so  the 
spores  wiU  not  be  lost.    If  the  stem  is  perforated  with 
fine  holes  it  means  that  worms  have  bored  it,  and  it 
should  be  rejected. 
The  three       The  most  common  varieties  are  the  Agaracini — those 
having  gills;  the  Boleti — those  having  pores;  and 
tiw.       puff-balls  (Lycoperdaceae).    All  the  puff-balls  are  edi- 
ble, and  those  of  the  Boleti  which  have  no  tinge  of 
red  on  the  pore  surface;  but  especial  care  must  be 
used  with  the  Agaracini,  for  it  is  said  that  all  deaths 
from  mushroom-poisoning  have  come  from  the  Ama- 

3U 


most  com- 
mon Tarie< 


MUSHROOMS  316 

nita,  which  is  a  genus  of  the  gilled  species,  and  is 
very  common  and  abundant. 

The  safeguard  to  other  species  of  poison  varietiei 
is  their  bitter  and  acrid  taste.    This  warning  the 
poisonous  Agaric  does  not  give,  but  it  has  the  dis-       ^^ 
tinguishing  feature  of  a  cup  or  volva  at  the  base  of    Amanita, 
the  stem.    This  cup  is  some  times  below  the  ground, 
and  should  be  carefully  sought;  and  where  any  doubt 
is  felt,  the  specimen  should  be  rejected.    The  anti- 
dote to  this  poison,  as  given  by  Mr.  Gibson,  is  one  ^tidote  to 
sixtieth  grain  doses  of  atropine  in  hypodermic  in-     poison, 
jections. 

Authorities  on  mushrooms  advise  the  amateur  to 
first  acquaint  himself  with  the  Amanita  family. 

"  Dr.  W.  A.  Curtis  found  in  North  Carolina  thirty- 
eight  edible  species  of  Agaricus,  eleven  of  Boletus, 
nine  of  Polyporus,  seven  of  Hydnum,  and  thirteen  of 
Clavaria." 

The  popular  tests  of  the  cap  peeling,  or  the  mush- 
room blackening  a  silver  spoon  when  cooking,  are 
worthless. 

Mushrooms  are  very  short-lived,  and  are  quickly  at- 
tacked by  insects  and  worms,  and  so  rendered  unfit  Freshnes*. 
for  use.    They  also  decay  quickly,  and  should  be  re- 
jected if  not  entirely  sound.    Many  cases  of  illness 
are  the  result  of  this  unfit  condition.     The    same 
would  be  the  case  if  unwholesome  meat  were  eaten, 
but  good  meat  is  not  condemned  on  that  account. 
Mushrooms  contain  the  same  nutritive  value  as  meat,    uourish- 
and  rank  second  to  it  in  nitrogenous  elements.    They    "ent  in. 
vary  in  flavor  and  in  delicacy  as  much  as  vegetables. 


316  THE  CENTURY  CX)OK  BOOK 

C00EIK6  MTTSHROOHS 

The  simplest  way  of  cooking  mushrooms  is  usually  the  best, 
and  this  may  be  broiling,  sauteing  in  butter,  or  stewing  in  a 
little  cream  sauce.  These  simple  ways  may  be  varied  by  sea- 
soning with  sherry,  Madeira,  or  lemon-juice.  Any  meat  stock 
may  be  used  to  stew  them  in,  but  many  of  the  mushrooms  are 
very  juicy,  and  their  flavor  must  not  be  lost  by  diluting  them 
with  too  much  liquor.  They  may  be  cut  in  pieces  when  used 
for  sauces.  When  dried  and  powdered  they  make  an  excellent, 
seasoning  for  sauces.  Dried  c^pes  may  be  bought  at  grocers', 
and  are  very  useful  to  stew  in  sauces. 

It  is  better  to  cook  mushrooms  as  soon  as  they  are  peeled,  and 
to  rinse  them  only  as  much  as  is  necessary,  as  they  lose  some 
flavor  by  soaking.  When  they  are  to  be  used  for  garnishing, 
they  are  thrown  into  water  with  lemon-juice,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  juice  to  a  quart  of  water,  and  are  afterward  boUed  in 
the  same  water;  this  keeps  them  white.  The  water  they  are 
boiled  in  should  be  saved  to  use  in  sauces.  Again,  they  may  be 
put  into  a  saucepan  with  butter  and  lemon-juice,  and  cooked 
(stirring  frequently)  for  about  five  minutes.  They  are  then 
covered  to  keep  them  moist  and  white  until  ready  for  use. 
Lemon-juice  keeps  them  white,  but  the  flavor  of  the  mushroom 
is  somewhat  destroyed  by  it,  and  so  it  is  not  recommended  for 
general  practice.  The  French  peel  the  caps  with  a  fluted  knife 
to  make  them  more  ornamental,  but  it  is  a  difl&cult  operation, 
and  does  not  repay  the  trouble. 

"  Mr.  George  Augustus  Sala,  in  a  discourse  on  '  Dinners  De- 
parted,' refers  to  the  famous  k  la  mode  beef,  served  in  the  days 
of  old  at  the  '  Thirteen  Cantons,'  in  Blackmore  Street,  Drury 
Lane,  and  of  which  Soyer  was  very  fond.  The  dish  was  re- 
markable for  its  rich  sauce,  the  concoction  of  which  was  a  close 
secret.  However,  the  former  proprietor  of  the  old  eating- 
house  confided  the  receipt  to  Mr.  Sala.  Thus :  '  It  was  simply 
made  from  a  particular  mushroom,  which  he  called  "  morella," 
and  which  I  infer  was  the  Morchella  esculenta,  described  in 
botanical  works.    These  mushrooms  were  gathered  in  the  fields 


MUSHROOMS  31? 

round  about  the  metropolis,  dried,  reduced  to  powder,  and  then 
used  to  thicken  the  sauce  and  enhance  the  flavor  of  h  la  mode 
beef.'" 

THE  FAIBT  RING  OHAMFieiTON 

(JLA-RASMIUS  OREADES) 

This  is  one  of  the  most  common  and  easily  recognized  mush- 
rooms, and  in  their  season  enough  for  a  sauce  may  be  gathered 
in  almost  any  dooryard.  The  difference  between  the  real  and 
the  false  fairy  is  easily  distinguished,  the  former  having  the 
gills  wide  apart,  and  a  little  mound  rising  in  the  center  of  the 
cap,  while  the  "false"  have  the  gills  close  together  and  usually  a 
depression  in  the  center  of  the  cap. 

If  the  "fairies"  are  dry  when  gathered  soak  them  in  water 
for  a  little  while,  and  then  saute  or  stew  them.  Put  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan;  when  it  bubbles  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  and  cook  the  flour  a  few  minutes,  but  not 
brown  it;  then  add  a  half  cupful  of  water  or  of  milk,  stir  un- 
til smooth,  and  add  a  pint  of  the  "  fairies."  Simmer  for  fifteen 
minutes,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  this  over  softened 
buttered  toast  or  over  meat;  use  water  to  make  the  sauce  if 
they  are  used  with  meat,  and  milk  if  served  on  toast;  or  cook 
them  by  saut6ing  them  in  a  little  butter,  and  serve  them  on 
softened  toast. 

THE  AGARIGUS  CAMFESTRIS 

This  mushroom  is  one  and  two  third  inches  in  diameter;  has  a 
white  or  cream  colored  cap  and  purplish  pink  gills,  the  gills  be- 
coming brown  at  a  later  stage.  When  once  learned  they  are 
unmistakable.  It  is  a  highly  esteemed  variety,  and  grows 
abundantly  in  meadows  and  pastures,  but  never  in  the  forest. 
It  is  the  mushroom  generally  found  for  sale  in  the  markets. 

Cut  off  the  stem  near  the  cup,  peel  them,  and  lay  them  with 
the  gills  up  on  a  dish  and  sprinkle  them  with  salt.  After  a 
little  time  they  will  be  quite  moist;  then  stew  them  in  a  sauce, 


318  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

the  same  as  given  above  for  the  "  fairies."  They  may  ako  be 
sauted  in  butter,  or  be  broiled.  To  broil,  lay  them  on  a  fine 
wire  broiler;  turn  the  gills  first  to  the  coals  for  a  few  minutes; 
then  turn  the  other  side,  and  place  a  piece  of  butter  on  each 
one.  Serve  on  toast.  The  fire  for  broiling  mushrooms  should 
not  be  very  hot  or  bright. 

AGAEIGUS  PROCERUS 

Remove  the  scurf  spots,  and  broil  the  same  as  given  above. 
Use  plenty  of  butter.  Serve  on  a  dish  with  meat  or  on  toast, 
as  preferred. 

AGARICUS  RUSSULA 

This  mushroom  is  of  various  colors.  It  is  found  in  woody 
paths  and  clearings.  It  is  particularly  subject  to  the  attack  of 
worms,  and  must  be  carefully  scrutinized.  The  noxious  Russu- 
las  have  a  bitter  taste,  and  in  appearance  resemble  closely  the 
esculent  ones,  so  care  is  required  to  discriminate  them.  Wash 
them  well,  peel,  and  broil  as  directed  for  the  Campestris.  Lay 
them  under  a  broiled  steak,  so  they  will  absorb  the  juices  of 
the  meat. 

GOFRINnS  COMATUS  AJSTD  GOFRIKUS  ATRAMENTARIUS 

These  grow  in  masses  in  barnyards,  gardens  or  any  rich 

earth,  and  in  decomposition  become  a  soft  black  paste.    They 

should  be  gathered  at  the  white  or  pink  stage.    Fry  them  in 

butter  or  stew  them  with  butter  and  a  little  milk  or  cream. 

They  are  very  juicy,  and  do  not  need  much  liquor  added  to  stew 

them. 

THE  BOLETI 

This  species  is  of  a  distinctly  different  character  from  the  Aga- 
racini  or  gUled  mushrooms.  The  cap  is  more  solid,  being  filled 
with  a  mass  of  vertical  tubes  or  pores.  Some  Boleti  are  as 
large  as  six  to  eight  inches  in  diameter,  one  of  them  making  a 
meal  for  several  people.  Any  of  this  class  which  have  any 
tinge  of  red  on  the  under  surface  should  be  rejected. 


MUSHROOMS  319 

Eemove  the  skin  and  pores,  and  either  sauti  the  caps  in  bat- 
ter,  or  dip  them  in  fritter  batter,  or  egg  and  crumb  them,  and 
fry  in  smoking-hot  fat.  They  may  also  be  stewed  in  a  white 
sauce,  but  they  are  very  juicy,  and  need  but  little  extra  liquor. 
These  mushrooms  must  be  carefully  examined  for  insects,  as  they 
are  quicldy  attacked. 

PUFF  BALLS 

All  are  edible  when  gathered  at  the  white  stage.  Cut  them 
in  slices  one  haK  inch  thick.  Either  saut6  them  in  butter,  or 
dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  or  cook  on  a  griddle. 
Season  with  pepper  and  salt. 

MORCHELLiE  ESCULEFTiB 

These  mushrooms  resemble  none  but  those  of  the  same  genus, 
and  all  of  them  are  edible.  They  are  hollow,  the  exterior  re- 
sembles a  honey-comb,  and  they  are  found  in  open  woods  and  at 
the  base  of  trees  on  lawns.  Great  use  is  made  of  all  the  Morels 
in  the  French  kitchen,  and  they  are  much  prized  by  epicures. 

Morels  are  usually  stuffed  with  chicken,  veal,  or  other  meat, 
chopped  very  fine  and  highly  seasoned.  The  stem  is  opened  to 
admit  the  forcemeat,  then  pressed  together  again.  Lay  them 
on  slices  of  bread,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  ten  minutes, 
or  until  tender;  baste  them  with  butter  while  cooking,  and 
sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Wash  the  Morels  well  be- 
fore stuffing  them. 

HTDNXTM  CAPUT  MEDUSA 

Cut  the  fungus  into  pieces,  and  simmer  it  in  a  little  water; 
season  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  add  a  little  cream. 
When  cooked,  pour  the  mixture  over  croiitons,  or  saute  the 
pieces  in  butter ;  add  a  little  sherry  just  before  removing  from 
the  fire,  and  serve  on  softened  toast. 

CLAVAEIA 

Separate  the  branches,  and  stew  in  white  sauce ;  or  saut^  them 
in  butter,  seasoning  with  lemon-juice,  salt,  and  pepper. 


320  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

TO  DRY  MU8HE00MS 

Place  them  in  a  saucepan,  and  cook  with  gentle  heat  until 
the  moisture  they  give  is  evaporated  j  then  place  them  on  a  hot 
shelf  until  they  are  thoroughly  dry.  Pound  them  to  powder 
in  a  mortar,  and  place  the  powder  in  well-closed  preserve  jars. 

SCALLOPED  MUSHROOMS 

Make  a  roux  of  one  tablespoouf  ul  each  of  butter  and  flour. 
Add  two  cupf uls  of  chicken  broth  or  of  white  stock ;  add  the 
chopped  stalks  of  a  pint  of  mushrooms  j  reduce  the  sauce  one 
half ;  add  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  and  salt. 
Turn  this  sauce  into  a  shallow  baking-dish.  Press  into  it  as 
many  mushrooms  as  wUl  fit  into  the  dish,  placing  them  close 
together,  with  the  gills  up.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  on  each  one ; 
sprinkle  the  top  with  crumbs,  and  place  in  the  oven  for  five  to 
eight  minutes.    Serve  in  the  same  dish. 

MUSHROOMS  A  LA  POULETTE 

Stew  the  mushrooms  in  a  little  water  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter;  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  When  ready  to  serve, 
add  a  little  milk  or  cream ;  remove  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  the 
beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs ;  replace  on  the  fire  for  a  minute  to 
thicken  the  eggs,  and  serve  at  once. 


-^m 


Chaptee  XIIT 

ASPIC  JELLY,  FANCY  MOLDING, 
SUPPORTS 


Aspic  is  very  useful  in  the  preparation  of  cold 
dishes,  and  much  care  should  be  given  to  having  it 
perfectly  clear  and  well  flavored.  The  second  one  of 
the  two  receipts  given  below  is  so  simple  that  the 
most  inexperienced  cook  can  easily  make  it.  With 
aspic,  cold  meats  and  salads  can  be  made  into  most  xrges. 
attractive  dishes;  and  it  is  well  worth  while  to  learn 
and  ornamenting  with  it.  (See  opposite  pages  326, 
328.) 

ASPIC 

1  fowl.  2  onions. 

1  shin  of  beef.  1  carrot. 

1  knuckle  of  veaL  1  stock  of  celery. 

4  cloves.  1  turnip. 

1  bay-leaf.  J  package  Cox's  gelatine. 

1  cupful  of  sherry  or  Madeira. 

Put  the  chicken,  beef,  and  veal  in  a  pot.  Cover  them  well 
with  cold  water,  and  let  simmer  for  five  or  six  hours,  with  the 
pot  covered  closely.  An  hour  before  removing  from  the  fire, 
add  the  carrot  cut  into  dicfe,  the  cloves,  and  bay-leaf.  Fry  in 
butter  the  onions  and  celery  (cut  into  pieces)  to  a  dark  brown, 
and  add  them  to  the  stock  at  the  same  time.  Remove  from  the 
fire,  strain,  and  add  one  half  package  of  gelatine  (which  has  been 
soaked  for  an  hour  in  one  cupful  of  water)  and  one  cupful  of 

21  321 


322  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

sherry  or  Madeira.  Stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved.  Set 
away  until  the  next  day.  There  should  be  two  quarts  of  jelly. 
If  it  is  not  solid  enough  to  stand,  more  gelatine  may  be  added 
at  the  time  of  clearing.  Boiling  down  jelly  will  not  make  it 
more  firm. 

TO  CLEAB  ASPIC 

Remove  all  the  grease  from  the  top  of  the  jelly,  and  wipe  it 
off  with  a  cloth  wet  in  hot  water,  so  every  particle  of  grease 
will  be  removed.  Stir  into  the  cold  jelly  the  beaten  whites  and 
the  shells  of  three  eggs  (do  not  froth  the  egg).  Put  it  on  the 
fire,  and  continue  to  stir  until  it  boils.  Let  it  boil  for  five 
minutes;  then  strain  it  through  a  double  cloth.  If  not  per- 
fectly clear,  strain  it  a  second  time.  Let  the  jelly  drain 
through  the  cloth  without  pressure. 

aXJIGE  ASPIC 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  cold  water, 
a  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  carrot  and  celery,  a  slice  of 
onion,  sprig  of  parsley,  one  bay-leaf,  and  three  cloves;  add 
also  one  teaspoonful  of  beef  extract  (obtained  in  jars)  dissolved 
in  one  cupful  of  hot  water.  Cover,  and  let  simmer  for  half 
an  hour;  then  add  one  half  box  of  Cox's  gelatine,  which  has 
been  soaked  in  one  half  cupful  of  cold  water  for  one  hour. 
Stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  A  tablespoonful  of  sherry  improves  the  flavor.  If  a 
deeper  color  is  wanted  add  a  few  drops  of  kitchen  bouquet 
or  of  caramel.  Strain  through  a  double  cloth.  If  it  is  for 
molding  it  can  be  used  at  once,  as  there  is  no  grease  to  be 
removed.  If  for  garnishing,  turn  it  into  a  shallow  pan  to  set. 
It  can  be  stamped  or  cut  into  fancy  shapes  more  easily  if  cooled 
in  layers  of  the  right  thickness.  Gelatine  added  to  a  good, 
clear  consomm6  will  give  the  same  results.  Observe  always 
the  proportion  of  one  box,  or  one  and  a  half  ounces,  of  gelatine 
to  one  and  a  quarter  quarts  (five  cupfuls)  of  liquor.  This  sim- 
ple method  of  making  aspic  is  very  quick,  and  is  entirely  satiS' 
factory. 


v^-^H*^***" 


90 


/\/\5 

SOCLES  OK  SUPPORTS  FOK  CHOPS,   BIRDS,  ETC. 

FORM  MADE  OF  RICE,  HOMINY  OR  WHITE  CORN  MEAL  MOLDED  IN  A  TIN  BASIN. 

(SEE  PAGE  326.) 

1.  Green  string  beans. 

2.  Balls  of  carrot  or  beet  cut  in  halves,  or  slices  stamped  into  small  rounds, 

3.  Parsley  stalk. 

i.    Balls  of  carrot,  large  green  peas  or  capers. 
6.    Slices  of  string  beans. 


BLOCKS  OF  BREAD  FOR  SUPPORT  OF  MEAT,  POULTRY,  FISH,  GAME,  ETC. 


ASPIC  JELLY,  FANCY  MOLDING,  SUPPOETS  323 

CHICKEN  ASPIC  OE  JELLY 

Boil  a  fowl  as  directed  for  chicken  stock  (page  100),  or  boil 
a  chicken  or  knuckle  of  veal,  as  directed  for  white  stock  (page 
99).  Let  the  stock  cool,  take  off  the  grease,  then  clarify  the 
stock.  If  veal  has  been  used,  no  gelatine  will  be  needed.  If 
chicken  only  has  been  used  in  making  the  stock,  add  to  each 
quart  of  hot  clarified  stock  three  quarters  of  a  box  of  Cox's 
gelatine  which  has  been  soaked  one  hour  in  a  half  cupful  of 
cold  water.  Stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved.  This  will 
make  a  very  clear,  light-colored  jelly,  good  for  molding,  salads, 
chicken,  etc.  ^ 

ASPIC  CBOUTONS 

When  jelly  is  to  be  used  for  garnishing,  pour  it  into  a  square 
shallow  pan  one  and  a  half  inches  deep.  When  it  has  thor- 
oughly set,  turn  it  onto  a  slightly  dampened  napkin  spread  on 
a  board  in  a  cool  place.  Dip  a  knife  into  hot  water.  Wipe  it 
dry,  and  cut  the  jelly  in  strips  the  same  width  as  the  thickness 
of  the  jelly;  then  cut  it  straight  across,  making  squares,  or 
diagonally  across,  making  diamonds,  or  into  triangles.  These 
croutons  will  stand  upright,  and  can  be  used  for  borders.  If  it 
is  to  be  laid  flat  on  the  dish  the  strips  need  be  cut  only  one 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  can  be  stamped  with  cutters  into 
fancy  shapes.  Small  molds  may  also  be  used  for  getting  fancy 
forms  of  aspic.  (See  illustration  facing  page  328.) 
TO  CHOP  JELLY 

Place  the  jeUy  on  a  cold  plate,  and  with  a  knife  cut  it  very 
slowly  until  it  is  of  the  right  size.  The  chopped  jelly  is  used  to 
cover  the  top  of  meats,  or  to  place  like  a  wreath  around  it  on 
the  dish.  It  may  be  either  fine  or  coarse,  but  each  piece  should 
be  separate  and  distinct,  and  can  be  kept  so  if  cut  slowly  in  a 
cool  place,  and  not  allowed  to  become  warm. 

TO  MOLD  JELLY 

(see  illustrations) 
Where  the  mold  is  to  be  only  coated  with  jelly,  first  paste  a 
piece  of  paper  over  the  top  of  the  mold;  when  it  is  firm,  cut  an 


324  THE  CENTUBY  COOK  BOOK 

opening  in  the  paper,  and  pour  in  some  cold,  but  liquid,  jelly ;  and 
turn  the  mold  on  ice  slowly,  so  that  every  part  may  be  coated. 
Pour  off  any  of  the  jelly  that  has  not  adhered  to  the  sides;  remove 
the  paper,  and  lay  in  the  material  which  is  to  fill  the  center  of 
the  mold.  This  method  is  employed  where  only  a  thin  coating 
of  jelly  is  required.  Where  it  is  to  be  an  inch  or  more  in  thick' 
ness  it  is  better  to  use  a  double  mold  as  explained  below. 

When  molding  jelly  have  a  pan  of  cracked  ice,  and  set  the 
mold  into  it.  The  jeUy  will  then  quickly  harden.  The  mold 
must  be  perfectly  firm  and  upright,  or  the  jelly  will  not  stand 
straight  when  unmolded.  Do  not  oil  or  grease  a  mold  used  for 
jelly.    (See  illustrations  facing  pages  326  and  386.) 

TO  UNMOLD  JELLT 

Dip  the  mold  quickly  into  warm  (not  hot)  water;  wipe  it 
dry,  place  the  dish  over  the  top  of  the  mold,  and  turn  them 
over  together.  If  the  jelly  fails  to  slip  out,  rub  the  mold  with  a 
cloth  wrung  out  of  hot  water.  It  takes  only  a  low  degree  of 
heat  to  melt  jelly,  and  if  too  much  is  used  the  fine  points  and 
edges  will  be  destroyed.  Do  not  unmold  jelly  until  it  is  time 
to  serve  it.  Do  not  shake  the  mold  in  trying  to  get  it  free, 
or  the  jelly  is  liable  to  break, 

TO  ORNAMENT  MOLDS 

Lay  whatever  fancy  pieces  are  used  for  the  decoration  care- 
fully in  place  on  the  bottom  of  the  mold.  With  a  spoon  add 
only  enough  jelly  to  moisten  them ;  if  too  much  is  used,  the  pieces 
will  float  out  of  place.  Let  the  jelly  harden  and  fix  the  deco- 
ration; then  add  as  much  as  wiU  make  a  layer  one  half  inch 
thick;  let  that  set;  then  place  the  material  which  is  to  fill  the 
center.  If  it  is  a  bird,  or  anything  in  one  piece,  add  a  little 
jelly  to  fix  it  in  place;  then  fiU  up  the  mold.  If  the  material  is 
a  soft  substance,  set  in  the  double  mold  (see  below) ;  or,  if  one 
is  not  at  hand,  add  a  few  spoonfuls  at  a  time  of  the  filling, 
leaving  a  space  of  one  half  an  inch  around  the  sides,  and  fill 
this  with  jeUy.    Proceed  in  this  way  until  the  mold  is  full, 


DAISY  DESIGN  FOR  ASPIC  JELLY  FOBMS.      (SEE  PAGE  326.) 

1.  Yolk  of  hard-boiled  egg.  3,    Parsley  leaves. 

2.  White  of  hard-boiled  egg.  4.    Parsley  stems. 


SLICE  OF  WHITE  OF  HARD-BOILED  EGG  CUT  INTO  PETALS. 


BERRY   DESIGN  FOR  ASPIC.      (SEE  PAGE  326.)  ' 

1.    Capers.  2.    Parsley  or  water-cress. 

3.    Parsley  steins. 


ASPIC  JELLY,  FANCY  MOLDINQ,  SUPPOETS  325 

having  the  top  covered  with  jelly,  so  that  when  unmolded  it 
will  form  a  complete  case.  If  ornament  is  used  on  the  sides  of 
the  mold,  arrange  the  decoration  when  the  mold  is  filled  to  the 
right  height,  dip  the  pieces  in  jelly  to  make  them  adhere,  and 
cover  them  very  slowly  at  first,  so  they  will  not  float  off.  When 
the  filling  is  to  be  in  alternate  layers  with  jelly,  proceed  in  the 
same  way,  adding  one  layer  at  a  time,  and  letting  each  one 
harden  before  the  next  is  placed.  The  mold  should  not  be 
moved  while  being  filled;  one  layer  should  not  become  too 
hard  before  the  next  one  is  added,  and  no  dampness  must  set- 
tle on  them.  Any  of  these  causes  will  make  the  jelly  liable  to 
separate  when  unmolded.  If  the  mold  is  placed  on  ice,  as  di- 
rected, the  jelly  hardens  quickly,  and  the  filling  is  soon  accom- 
plished. 

DOUBLE  MOLDS 

For  salads,  and  also  in  many  cases  for  sweet  jellies,  it  is  easier 
to  use  a  double  mold.  If  one  is  not  at  hand  two*  Charlotte 
Russe  molds  may  be  substituted,  or  any  two  molds  or  tins  of 
the  same  shape,  one  of  which  is  an  inch  smaller  than  the 
other.  Place  the  larger  one  on  ice,  and  pour  into  it  enough 
jelly  to  make  a  layer  on  the  bottom  the  same  thickness  as  the 
width  of  space  between  the  two  molds.  When  it  is  set,  place 
the  smaller  mold,  filled  with  ice,  on  it;  and  fill  the  space  be- 
tween the  two  with  jelly.  When  that  has  set,  remove  with 
a  spoon  the  ice  from  the  small  mold,  and  pour  in  carefully  a 
little  warm  water.  It  can  then  be  easily  lifted  out.  Be  careful 
not  to  have  the  water  too  warm.  Fill  the  space  left  by  the 
small  mold  with  the  material  to  be  used,  leaving  a  space  on  top 
to  cover  with  jelly — to  encase  it.  Another  way  of  molding 
jellies  double,  besides  using  the  double  mold  and  the  method 
given  above  in  ornamenting  molds,  is  to  fill  the  mold  en- 
tirely with  jelly,  and  when  it  has  hardened,  scoop  out  with  a 
teaspoon,  heated  in  hot  water  and  wiped  dry,  enough  of  the 
center  to  give  the  space  desired.  This  has  to  be  done  very  care- 
fully, as  there  is  danger  of  the  sides  falling  in.    (See  page  386.) 


326  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

DECORATIONS  FOR  MEAT  JELL7 

DAISY  DESIGN 

Cut  a  hard-boiled  egg  into  slices  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick. 
With  a  pastry-bag  tube  or  a  small  round  vegetable-cutter 
stamp  circles  from  the  yolk.  Cut  the  white  strips  diagonally, 
so  they  form  diamond-shaped  pieces.  Lay  a  round  piece  of 
yolk  in  the  mold,  and  the  white  pieces  around  it  to  simulate 
a  daisy;  place  small  pieces  of  parsley  beside  it,  and  use  the 
stem  of  parsley  for  the  stem  of  the  daisy.  This  decoration  fits 
very  well  in  a  Charlotte  Russe  mold,  or  in  individual  molds. 
Make  two  or  three  daisies  on  the  large  mold,  only  one  on  the 
small  ones. 

BERRY  DESIGN 

Use  capers,  grouped  like  berries,  along  the  stem.  Use  water- 
cress for  leaves  and  parsley  for  stems.  This  design,  being  dark, 
looks  well  in  chicken  or  veal  jelly. 

TO  DECORATE  WITH  TRT7PPLES 

Slice  the  truffles  very  thin ;  stamp  them  into  any  form  de- 
sired. Take  each  piece  on  a  long  pin,  and  place  it  in  a  well- 
buttered  mold;  or  for  jelly  molds  dip  them  in  cold  jeUy,  and 
they  will  then  adhere  to  the  sides  of  the  mold.  Arrange  the 
pieces  symmetrically  in  any  design.  If  the  truffle  is  cut  in 
strips,  make  geometrical  forms.  Some  dishes  may  be  orna- 
mented after  they  are  unmolded  by  dipping  the  pieces  of  truf- 
fle in  cold  but  liquid  jelly,  and  then  applying  them.  The  lat- 
ter is  the  method  used  for  chaudfroid  dishes,  which  are  usually 
much  ornamented.     (See  illustration  facing  page  320.) 

Green  peas,  carrots,  beets,  pickles,  string-beans,  radishes, 
parsley,  etc.,  in  combinations,  can  be  made  into  various  designs. 

SOCLES 

Socles  are  stands  on  which  to  raise  birds,  chops,  or  other  ar- 
ticles above  the  dish  to  give  them  a  better  appearance,  and  allow 
more  garnishing.    They  are  also  used  as  supports  against  which 


1.  SMALL  MOLDS  FOB  ASPIC.      2.    MOLD  WITH  PAl'ER  PASTED  OVER  THE  TOP  FOB 
COATING  THE  MOLD.      (SEE  PAGE  323.) 


SLICES  OF  TONGUE  IN  ASPIC   (EN  BELLEVUE).      (SEE  PAGE  83.) 

DECORATED  WITH  HARD-BOILED  EGG  IN  DAISY  DESIGN.      (SEE  PAGE  326.) 

DISH  GARNISHED  WITH    OLIVES  CUT  IN  HALVES. 


BONED  BIRDS  IN  ASPIC  AROUND  SOCLE. 

The  boned  birds  are  molded  in  fluted  individual  molds  and  decorated  with  hard- 
boiled  egg  in  daisy  design  as  directed  on  page  326.  Dish  garnished  with  par.sley. 


ASPIC  JELLY,  FANCY  MOLDINa,  SUPPORTS  327 

to  rest  larger  pieces  of  meat,  fish,  tongue,  etc.,  to  keep  them  in 
place.  Elaborate  socles  of  various  shapes  are  made  of  tallow- 
by  caterers,  but  these  are  not  practicable  for  ordinary  cooks  to 
undertake,  and  they  are  also  in  questionable  taste.  The  simple 
supports  given  below  are  easily  made,  and  well  repay  the 
trouble,  especially  for  cold  dishes.  They  should  be  stuck  to 
the  dish  with  white  of  egg,  so  they  will  be  firm.  The  simplest 
way  of  making  a  socle  is  to  take  a  loaf  of  stale  bread,  remove  the 
crust,  and  cut  the  crumb  to  the  desired  shape.  Then  spread  it 
with  butter,  and  cover  it  with  parsley  chopped  very  fine.  If  to 
be  used  for  a  hot  dish,  immerse  the  bread  in  hot  fat  until  it 
takes  a  golden  brown.  Another  simple  socle  can  be  made  of 
hominy.  Fill  a  well-buttered  cake-tin  or  plain  mold  with 
boiled  hominy.  When  cold  it  will  retain  the  form  of  the  mold. 
If  desired,  the  sides  of  the  mold  can  be  ornamented  with  vege- 
tables of  different  colors  cut  into  fancy  shapes.    (See  picture.) 

BICE  SOCLE  OB  CASSEBOLE 

Boil  rice  with  three  times  its  quantity  of  water,  and  a  little 
butter,  until  it  is  very  soft ;  then  mash  or  pound  it  in  a  mortar 
until  it  becomes  a  smooth,  elastic  paste.  Press  the  paste  into  a 
plain  buttered  mold  or  pan  of  the  size  desired  for  the  socle,  and 
place  a  weight  on  it  so  it  will  be  compact  and  firm  when  cold. 
Unmold,  and  with  a  pointed  knife,  a  turnip  cut  wedge-shape, 
and  a  butter-stamp,  mold  the  sides  to  fancy  form.  Brush  it 
over  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  place  a  moment  in  the  oven  to 
brown ;  or  it  may  be  ornamented  the  same  as  the  hominy  sup- 
ports, with  vegetables  cut  into  fancy  shapes.  (See  illustrations.) 
If  wanted  for  a  casserole,  scoop  out  carefully  a  hollow  in  the 
center,  and  fill  with  chicken  or  any  creamed  meat,  or  with 
vegetables. 

POTATO  CASSEBOLE 

To  a  quart  of  seasoned  mashed  potato  add  four  or  six  egg 
yolks.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  to  dry  it  well  j  then  with  the  hands  or 
a  knife  mold  it  into  a  hollow  cylinder  or  into  a  cup-shaped  form ; 


328  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

brush  it  over  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  place  it  a  moment  in  the 
oven  to  brown.  Fill  the  center  just  before  serving  with  any 
minced  meat,  or  with  birds,  chops,  sweetbreads,  or  any  creamed 
dish.  The  casserole  may  also  be  formed  by  pressing  the  potato 
into  a  mold  which  opens  (see  illustration),  or  any  mold  with 
fluted  or  plain  sides,  which,  when  buttered,  will  let  the  potato 
slip  out ;  then  egg  and  brown  as  before. 

A  POTATO  SUPPORT  FOB  HOT  MEATS 

Add  slowly  to  two  cupfuls  of  well-mashed  sweet  or  white 
potato,  beating  all  the  time  over  the  fire,  one  cupful  of  hot 
milk,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  lastly,  three  beaten  eggs. 
Butter  well  a  plain  mold  of  the  shape  desired ;  sprinkle  over  it 
as  many  bread-crumbs  as  will  stick  to  the  butter  5  turn  in  the 
puree  of  potatoes,  place  the  mold  in  a  pan  of  water,  and  bake 
for  thirty  minutes.  Turn  the  molded  potato  in  the  centre  of 
a  dish,  and  arrange  chops  or  birds  around  and  against  it. 

OROUSTADES  OF  BREAD 

Take  a  loaf  of  bread  two  days  old,  which  was  baked  in  a 
round  or  a  square  tin ;  pare  off  the  crust,  and  cai"ve  it  with  a 
sharp-pointed  knife  into  vase  or  cup-shape.  Fry  it  in  hot  fat 
to  gold  color.  Paint  the  inside  with  white  of  egg  to  prevent  its 
soaking  up  the  sauce  of  the  filling.  Fill  with  mushrooms, 
chicken  livers,  creamed  chicken  or  any  salpicon.  Do  not  put 
the  filling  in  until  ready  to  serve,  and  heat  the  croustade  before 
adding  it. 

BOLL   CBOUSTADES 

Cut  off  the  tops  of  roDs,  or  of  home-made  biscuits  of  any  size. 
Remove  the  crumb  from  the  inside ;  butter  the  rolls  inside  and 
out,  and  set  in  the  oven  to  brown.  Fill  with  any  creamed 
meat  or  salpicon. 


BONED  BIKDS  IN  ASPIC,  THE  SAME  AS  PRECEDING   CUT,  SERVED  ON  FLAT  DISH 
AND   GARNISHED  WITH  PARSLEY. 


■^ 

■ 

^^^BnlHjBpJ|^^T[T~ J 

I^h^hB  ^^^Bft  i 

^m 

flB 

h#^^.-- 

---^ 

"> 

j^^^^^VpH 

Tt'ifcu. 

^H^^^btti 

t^Hmt^ 

PATE  DE  FOIE  GRAS  EN  BELLEVUE.  SLICES  OF  PATE  ALTERNATING  WITH  ASPIC 
—  MOLDED  IN  INDIVIDUAL  TIMBALE  MOLDS.  FORMS  STANDING  ON  RICE  SOCLE 
DECORATED  WITH  TONGUE  AND  PICKLE  —  GARNISHED  WITH  BUNCH  OF  RED 
CARNATIONS. 


fOOOOi 


ASPIC  CUT  INTO  ORNAMENTAL  SHAPES  FOR  GARNISHING  COLD  DISHES. 


Chaptee  XIY 

CHAFINa-DISH  RECEIPTS 

CHAFING-DISH  COOKING 

The  chafing-dish,  although  a  time-honored  utensil, 
has  recently  had  a  renaissance.  To-day  it  is  not  more 
valued  for  the  convenience  than  for  the  fun  of  it. 
Amateurs  and  epicures  alike  find  pleasure  in  brewing 
and  stewing  over  the  alcohol  lamp ;  in  preparing  a 
luncheon  dish,  or  a  novelty  for  "tea;"  but,  best  of 
all,  at  the  midnight  hour  the  chafing-dish  does  its  best 
though  most  disastrous  service,  for  matutinal  head- 
aches have  been  called  the  desserts,  and  just  deserts 
of  late  suppers. 

The  chafing-dish  with  double  pan  (the  lower  one     ^^^^. 
to  hold  hot  water)  is  the  preferable  one,  because  dishes  dish  to  use. 
may  be  kept  warm  in  the  hot  water,  and  also  because 
articles  cooked  with  milk  are  liable  to  burn  if  cooked 
directly  over  the  flame. 

For  safety  from  fire  and  staining,  the  chafing-dish 
should  stand  on  a  large  metal  tray,  and  the  lamp 
should  not  be  filled  too  full.  Wood  alcohol,  which  is 
much  cheaper  than  high-proof  spirits,  answers  just  as 
well  the  purpose  of  heating,  but  has  an  unpleasant  odor. 

The  various  articles  to  be  used  in  the  preparation     Russian 
of  the  dish  should  be  put  into  Russian  bowls,  and  the      bowls, 
bowls  placed  on  a  Japanese  tray.    These  bowls  are 
of  wood,  and  are  made  of  all  sizes.     They  do  not 
break,  they  make  no  noise,  and  are  ornamental:  the 

329 


830 


THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 


Wooden 
spoons. 


Diahes 
suitable 
for  chaf- 
ing-dish. 


last  is  a  consideration  which  recommends  them,  other 
things  being  equal,  where  fancy  work  is  being  done. 
The  preliminary  preparation  of  the  foods  should  be 
done  in  the  kitchen,  rather  than  before  the  party  as- 
sembled to  assist  in  the  cooking  operation  with  their 
advice,  praise,  and  appetite. 

"Wooden  spoons,  which  come  in  all  sizes,  are  also 
desirable  to  use,  as  they  do  not  become  hot,  do  not 
scratch  the  dish,  and  are  noiseless.  Articles  prepared 
in  the  chafing-dish  are  served  directly  from  it,  there- 
fore garnishing  has  no  part,  but  toast  or  croutons  go 
well  with  most  of  the  preparations,  and  these  can  be 
toasted  or  reheated  on  an  asbestos  pad  placed  over 
the  flame.  The  water-pan  containing  hot  water  should 
be  placed  under  the  cooking-pan  as  soon  as  the  flame 
is  extinguished.  It  will  keep  the  dish  warm,  and 
serve  as  a  bain-marie  (the  utensil  employed  in  large 
kitchens  for  keeping  dishes  hot  until  time  for  serv- 
ing). Two  chafing-dishes  are  almost  a  requisite  where 
no  other  fire  than  the  lamp  is  to  be  called  upon,  but 
with  this  hatterie  de  cuisine  a  supper  can  be  easily 
and  quickly  prepared  without  one  half  of  it  spoiling 
while  the  other  half  is  being  made  ready — the  toast 
and  hot  water,  for  instance. 

The  dishes  most  suitable  for  chafing-dish  cooking 
are  stews,  eggs,  and  cheese.  Stews  can  be  modified 
in  a  great  variety  of  ways,  the  barbecue  being  a 
favorite  one.  The  simplest  way  of  cooking  in  a  chafing- 
dish  is  to  put  a  little  butter  in  the  dish,  and  when  it 
bubbles  add  oysters,  mushrooms  or  any  article  which 
makes  its  own  liquor;  this  lacking,  a  little  water  or 
milk  is  added,  and  seasoning  to  taste. 

Canned  chicken,  tongue,  salmon,  crabs,  and  shrimps 
make  good  dishes  and  are  easily  prepared.  Paprica, 
a  kind  of  red  pepper,  is  especially  good  for  use  in 
chafing-dish  cookery  instead  of  cayenne. 


CHAFING-DISH  RECEIPTS  381 

PANNED  OYSTEES 

For  twenty-five  oysters,  put  in  a  chafing-dish  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter.  When  it  is  melted,  add  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon  and  one  teaspoouful  of  chopped  parsley.  Then  add  the 
oysters,  which  should  be  well  drained.  Cook,  stirring  carefully, 
until  they  are  plump  and  the  gills  a  little  frilled  —  no  longer. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  at  once  on  toast.  The 
oysters  exude  enough  juice  to  soften  the  toast.  Or  let  the 
butter  brown  in  the  chafing-dish,  then  add  the  oysters  and 
cook  until  plump  or  the  gills  are  curled.  Then  add  a  wine- 
glassful  of  sherry  or  Madeira.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  serve  at  once.  When  wine  is  used,  omit  the  lemon  and 
parsley,  and  do  not  season  until  after  the  wine  is  added,  as  wine 
augments  the  flavor  of  salt.  Have  ready  some  toasted  bread 
and  pour  the  oysters  over  it;  or  cut  the  toast  into  small  squares, 
stir  them  into  the  oysters  and  serve  directly  from  the  chafing- 
dish. 

OYSTER  STEW 

Put  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  butter  in  the  chafing-dish ;  add  a  heap- 
ing tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  cook  a  few  minutes,  stirring  all 
the  time  so  it  will  not  color.  Add  a  cupful  of  milk  slowly  and 
stir  until  it  begins  to  thicken ;  then  add  the  oyster  liquor  (have 
the  liquor  strained  so  it  will  be  free  from  pieces  of  shell),  and 
lastly  the  oysters;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  little 
celery  salt  if  liked.  As  soon  as  the  edges  of  the  oysters  curl 
they  are  done,  and  the  cooking  must  be  arrested,  or  they  will 
become  tough. 

CREAMED  OYSTERS  AND  CLAMS 

See  receipt  for  creamed  clams  (page  135).  This  receipt  can 
easily  be  prepared  in  the  chafing-dish.  Also  oysters  k  la  Pou- 
lette  given  on  page  133. 

BARBECUE  OF  FISH 

Marinate  one  pound  of  any  cold  boiled  white  fish  in  one 
tablespoonful  of  oil,  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  one  slice  of 


332  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

onion,  pepper  and  salt.  Leave  the  fish  in  as  lai'ge  pieces  as 
possible.  Put  in  a  chafing-dish  three  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato 
catsup,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter.  Put  the  butter  in  first,  and  when  melted  add  the  catsup 
and  wine  and  then  the  fish.  Baste  the  fish  with  the  liquor  until 
it  is  thoroughly  heated,  and  it  is  then  ready  to  serve.  Thin  slices 
of  cooked  cold  beef,  veal,  or  ham  may  also  be  cooked  in  this  way. 

EGGS  WITH  TOMATOES 

Put  into  the  chafing-dish  a  cupful  of  canned  tomatoes,  and 
cook  until  they  begin  to  soften;  then  season  with  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Add  two  beaten 
eggs,  and  stir  constantly  until  they  begin  to  thicken.  Then 
extinguish  the  flame,  and  the  heat  of  the  dish  will  be  sufficient 
to  complete  the  cooking.  Stir  constantly  until  they  are  of  the 
consistency  of  scrambled  eggs.  Serve  at  once,  or  they  will 
separate. 

TOMATOES  AJSTD  BICE 

Put  into  a  chafing-dish  a  haK  cupful  of  tomatoes ;  add  a  bay- 
leaf,  a  few  drops  of  onion- juice,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Let 
them  cook  until  tender,  then  remove  the  bay-leaf  and  stir  in 
as  much  boiled  rice  as  can  be  well  coated  and  moistened  with 
the  tomatoes.    Serve  with  cracker  biscuits. 

CBEAMED  DISHES 

(eggs,  chicken,  or  veal) 
Use  the  double  pan  with  water.  Make  a  white  sauce  by  put- 
ting in  the  chafing-dish  one  tablespoonful  of  butter;  let  it 
bubble,  then  stir  in  one  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  let  it  cook  a  few 
minutes,  but  not  brown ;  then  add  a  cupful  of  milk  slowly,  stir- 
ring all  the  time  until  it  is  a  little  thickened.  Season  with  pep- 
per and  salt.  Lay  in  carefully  thick  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg. 
As  soon  as  they  are  heated,  place  them  on  slices  of  toast  soft- 
ened with  hot  water,  and  pour  the  thickened  sauce  over  them. 
For  chicken  or  meat,  season  the  sauce  with  a  few  drops  of 


CHAFING-DISH  RECEIPTS  333 

onion-juice,  a  little  chopped  celery  if  convenient,  salt,  pepper, 
and  paprica.  Have  the  chicken  in  good-sized  pieces,  or  meat 
iu  thin  slices,  and  leave  them  in  the  sauce  only  long  enough  to 
become  well  heated;  canned  chicken  or  turkey  may  be  used. 
Any  kind  of  meat  can  be  minced  and  used  in  this  way,  in  which 
case  the  sauce  should  be  made  with  haK  milk  and  half  stock. 
If  stock  is  not  at  hand  extract  of  beef  (one  teaspoonful  to  a 
cupful  of  boiling  water)  may  be  substituted.  With  chicken  or 
oysters,  the  yolk  of  an  egg  is  added  just  before  it  is  removed, 
which  makes  it  "  k  la  poulette." 

DISHES  A  LA  NEWBUBG 

These  are  favorite  chafing-dish  preparations,  and  may  be 
made  of  lobster,  crabs,  shrimps,  soft-shelled  clams,  chicken,  or 
cold  boiled  halibut.  Lobster :  Take  the  meat  of  one  boiled  lob- 
ster, put  it  in  a  chafing-dish  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  cayenne  or  of  paprica.  Stir  lightly 
with  a  fork  for  three  minutes,  or  until  the  lobster  is  well  heated ; 
then  add  a  wineglassful  of  sherry  or  of  Madeira;  cook  for  an- 
other three  minutes,  and  then  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  diluted  with  a  half  pint  of  cream.  Stir  the  mixture  con- 
stantly for  a  minute,  or  just  long  enough  to  set  the  egg.  If 
cooked  too  long  it  will  curdle;  serve  at  once.  Prepare  the 
dishes  h  'la  Newburg  with  a  double  pan.  For  soft-shell  clams 
use  only  the  soft  half  of  the  clam.  For  chicken  use  the  white 
meat  cut  into  inch  squares.  For  halibut  leave  the  pieces  large, 
and  break  them  as  little  as  possible. 

TERRAPIN 

The  prepared  terrapin  which  comes  in  cans  is  the  best  for 
the  chafing-dish,  and  needs  only  to  be  heated  and  seasoned  to 
taste. 

CHICKEN  LIVERS  WITH  MADEIRA 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  the  chafing-dish;  add  the 
livers  cut  into  pieces ;  cook  them  directly  over  the  flame,  turn- 


834  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

ing  them  constantly,  and  dredge  them  while  cooking  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour.  It  will  take  about  five  minutes  to  cook 
them }  add  a  cupful  of  stock,  and  a  few  drops  of  kitchen  bou- 
quet. Then  place  the  pan  in  the  double  pan  containing  water 
already  hot ;  add  to  the  livers  a  half  cupful  of  Madeira  and  a 
few  stoned  olives ;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  paprica  after 
the  wine  is  in  j  cover  and  let  it  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Serve 
with  croutons. 

CRAB  TOAST 

Put  into  the  chafing-dish  a  tablespoonful  of  butter ;  when  it 
is  melted,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  celery,  a  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  a  half  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  and  a  canful  of  crab 
meat.  Stir  until  the  moisture  is  nearly  evaporated ;  add  a  ta- 
blespoonful of  sherry,  salt  and  pepper,  and  paprica  to  taste ; 
spread  on  toasted  biscuits,  or  on  thin  slices  of  toast. 

SMELTS  A  LA  TOULOUSE 

12  smelts.  1  tablespoonful  of  butter. 

^  cupful  of  white  wine.  1  tablespoonful  of  flour. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  liquor      1  dozen  canned  mushrooms, 
from  the  mushroom-can.   1  truffl.e. 

Cut  down  the  back  of  the  smelts,  and  remove  the  bone  j  close 
the  fish,  and  lay  them  in  the  chafing-dish  with  the  wine  and 
mushroom  liquor  taken  from  the  can.  Cook  until  done,  which 
will  take  five  or  six  minutes.  Remove  and  place  the  smelts  on 
a  hot  dish.  Mix  with  the  liquor  in  which  they  were  boiled  one 
cupful  of  stock ;  rub  together  the  butter  and  flour,  and  stir  this 
in  also,  leaving  it  on  the  spoon  until  by  stirring  it  is  dissolved. 
(This  method  prevents  its  getting  lumpy.)  Then  add  the 
chopped  mushrooms  and  chopped  truffle.  Season  with  salt  and 
paprica  or  a  dash  of  cayenne.  Cook,  stirring  all  the  time  until 
the  sauce  is  creamy;  then  pour  it  over  the  fish.  Serve  with 
croutons. 

This  is  a  good  supper  dish. 


OHAPING-DISH  RECEIPTS  335 

HEATS 

VENISON 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  chafing-dish.  When  it  is 
very  hot,  lay  in  a  piece  of  venison  steak ;  let  it  cook  a  minute 
on  both  sides.  Use  spoons  for  turning  the  meat,  so  as  not  to 
pierce  it.  When  the  surfaces  are  seared,  add  a  glassful  of  cur- 
rant jelly,  and  baste  the  venison  constantly  with  the  liquid  jelly 
until  cooked  rare.  Extinguish  the  flame,  and  cut  and  serve  the 
meat  from  the  chafing-dish. 

MUTTON 

Lay  a  slice  of  mutton  cut  from  the  leg  into  a  hot  chafing- 
dish  ;  turn  it  constantly,  using  two  spoons,  until  it  is  cooked 
rare.  Extinguish  the  flame,  and  cover  the  meat  with  a  maitre 
d'h6tel  sauce  (page  286).  If  preferred,  spread  it  with  currant 
jelly  or  with  plum  sauce;  or  prepare  it  the  same  as  venison, 
with  a  little  butter,  and,  instead  of  jelly,  add  a  half  canful  of 
tomatoes,  and  finish  the  cooking  in  the  same  way.  Season  with 
a  little  onion-juice,  pepper,  and  salt. 

BEEP 

A  small  steak  can  be  pan-broiled  in  the  same  way.  For  beef 
a  maitre  d'h6tel  sauce  must  be  used.  A  Delmonico  steak  or  a 
small  porterhouse  steak,  with  the  bones  removed,  are  the  best 
cuts  to  use. 

Any  meat  cooked  in  the  chafing-dish  should  have  all  the  fat 
trimmed  off,  so  that  there  will  be  less  odor. 

WELSH  RAREBIT  AND  GOLDEN  BUCK 

Receipts  for  Welsh  Rarebit  and  Golden  Buck  are  given  on 
pages  371  and  372. 

FONDUE 

BRILLAT-SAVARIN 

Savarin  gives  this  receipt,  which  he  says  is  taken  from  the 
papers  of  a  Swiss  bailiff.    He  says :  "  It  is  a  dish  of  Swiss  ori- 


336  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

gin,  is  healthy,  savory,  appetizing,  quickly  made,  and,  more- 
over, is  always  ready  to  present  to  unexpected  guests." 

He  relates  an  anecdote  of  the  sixteenth  century  of  a  M.  de 
Madot,  newly  appointed  Bishop  of  Belley,  who  at  a  feast  given 
in  honor  of  his  arrival,  mistaking  the  fondue  for  cream,  eat  it 
with  a  spoon  instead  of  a  fork.  This  caused  so  much  comment 
that  the  next  day  no  two  people  met  who  did  not  say :  "  Do  you 
know  how  the  new  bishop  eat  his  fondue  last  night  ? "  "  Yes ; 
he  eat  it  with  a  spoon.  I  have  it  from  an  eye-witness."  And 
soon  the  news  spread  over  the  diocese. 

RECEIPT 

"  Weigh  as  many  eggs  as  you  have  guests.  Take  one  third 
their  weight  of  Gruy^re  cheese,  and  one  sixth  their  weight  of 
butter.  Beat  the  eggs  well  in  a  saucepan;  add  the  cheese, 
grated,  and  the  butter.  Put  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  stir 
until  the  mixture  is  soft  and  creamy ;  then  add  salt,  more  or 
less,  according  to  the  age  of  the  cheese,  and  a  generous  amount 
of  pepper,  which  is  one  of  the  positive  characters  of  the  dish. 
Serve  on  a  hot  plate.  Bring  in  the  best  wine,  drink  roundly  of 
it,  and  you  will  see  wonders." 

PmEAFFLE  CANAPES 

Split  in  two  some  square  sponge-cakes,  which  can  be  bought  at 
the  baker's  for  two  cents  each.  Put  a  little  butter  in  the  chafing- 
dish.  When  it  is  hot  put  in  the  slices  of  cake,  and  brown  them  a 
little  on  both  sides.  Lay  the  slices  on  a  plate,  and  spread  each  one 
with  a  layer  of  canned  chopped  pineapple.  Turn  the  juice  from 
the  can  into  the  chafing-dish.  Moisten  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  arrow- 
root with  cold  water,  stir  it  slowly  into  the  hot  juice,  and  con- 
tinue to  stir  until  it  becomes  thickened  and  clear.  Pour  the 
sauce  over  the  slices  of  spread  cake.  If  more  than  a  cupful  of 
juice  is  used,  add  more  arrowroot  in  proportion.  Any  kind 
of  fruit,  and  slices  of  sponge  cake  or  of  brioche,  can  be  used 
instead  of  the  square  individual  cakes.  Strawberries,  rasp- 
berries, or  peaches  make  good  sweet  canap6s. 


CHAFING-DISH  RECEIPTS  337 

CHOCOLATE  MADE  WITH  COITOENSED  MILK 

Fill  the  cups  to  be  used  about  one  third  full  of  condensed  milk ; 
add  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  instantaneous  chocolate,  which  is 
chocolate  ground  to  a  fine  powder.  Mix  them  well  together  j 
then  fill  the  cup  with  boiling  water,  and  stir  until  the  chocolate 
and  milk  are  dissolved.  No  sugar  is  needed,  as  the  milk  is 
sweetened  to  preserve  it. 


22 


The  yeast 


Chaptee  XY 

BREAD 

Yeast  is  a  minute  plant,  and  like  other  plants  mnst 
have  the  right  conditions  of  heat,  moisture,  and  nour- 
ishment in  order  to  live  or  to  flourish.  It  will  be 
killed  if  scalded,  or  if  frozen,  as  any  other  plant  would 
be;  therefore,  as  we  depend  upon  the  growth  of  this 
little  plant  for  raising  our  bread,  we  must  give  its 
requirements  as  much  care  as  we  do  our  geraniums 

plant  or  our  roses.  The  yeast  plant  takes  its  nourisliment 
from  sugar.  This  is  found  in  flour.  It  converts  this 
sugar  into  carbonic  acid  gas  and  alcohol,  and  the 
pressure  of  this  gas  causes  the  mixture  in  which  it 
is  generated  to  become  inflated,  or  to  "rise." 

In  mixing  bread,  we  put  the  yeast  into  warm  (not 
hot)  water;  this  we  mix  with  flour,  thus  suppljdng  the 
moisture  and  nourishment  required.    We  put  this 

bread."  mixture  in  a  warm  place  to  force  the  growth  of  the 
plant.  When  the  dough  has  become  sufficiently  in* 
flated  we  put  it  into  the  oven  and  raise  the  heat  to  a 
degree  which  kills  the  plant  and  fixes  the  air  cells^ 
and  our  bread  is  done. 
In  cities,  where  fresh  compressed  yeast  can  be  ob- 

Teast  tained,  it  is  not  worth  while  to  prepare  one's  own. 
Where  this  cannot  be  had,  the  dry  yeast-cakes  often 
give  satisfactory  results,  but  are  not  as  reliable  as  a 
liquid  yeast,  which  in  the  country  it  is  often  necessary 
as  well  as  desirable  to  make. 

338 


Making 


FORMS  OF  GKOWTH  OF  THF.  YEAST  PLANT. 


i^^^T^^ 

mmm^ 

ife 

^^^^^^^'-  "^^ 

*" 

#1 

BREAD   AND  ROLL  TINS. 


BREAD  339 

DICK  BENNET'S  RECEIPT  FOR  YEAST 

Peel  nine  good-sized  potatoes,  and  boil  them  with  a  large 
handful  of  loose  hops  tied  in  a  thin  muslin  bag.  Use  enough 
water  to  cover  them  well.  When  the  potatoes  are  tender  strain 
off  the  water.  Mash  the  potatoes,  return  them  to  the  water 
in  which  they  were  boiled,  and  mix  them  well  together.  Add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one  half  cupful  of  granulated 
sugar,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  salt.  Cook  it  for  a  few  minutes, 
adding  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Set  it  aside  until 
lukewarm ;  then  add  a  yeast-cake,  or  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast. 
Mix  it  well  and  place  in  a  stone  jar.  Let  it  stand  for  twelve 
hours  in  a  warm  place.  Stir  it  three  times  during  this  period. 
Place  a  weight  on  the  lid  of  the  jar,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place. 

YEAST  RECEIPT  No.  2 

6  grated  raw  potatoes.  J  cupful  of  salt. 

1  cupful  of  brown  sugar.  2  quarts  of  flour. 

Mix  these  together,  and  add  enough  water  to  make  a  batter 
as  thick  as  that  used  for  griddle  cakes. 

Pour  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  on  as  many  hops  as  one 
can  hold  in  the  hand.  Let  them  boil  for  five  minutes.  Strain 
off  the  water,  and  while  hot  add  it  to  the  batter.  When  it  is 
lukewarm  add  a  cupful  of  yeast,  or  a  yeast  cake.  Let  it  stand 
several  hours  in  a  warm  place  until  it  rises,  or  the  top  is  cov- 
ered with  bubbles.  Then  place  in  glass  preserve  jars,  and  keep 
in  a  cool  place.  Use  a  granite- ware  saucepan  and  a  wooden 
spoon  when  making  yeast,  in  order  to  keep  a  good  color. 


WHAT  TO  DO  WHEN  YEAST  IS  NOT  OBTAINABLE  TO 
START  THE  FERMENTATION  IN  MAKING  YEAST 

Mix  a  thin  batter  of  flour  and  water,  and  let  it  stand  in  a 
warm  place  until  it  is  full  of  bubbles.  This  ferment  has  only 
half  the  strength  of  yeast,  so  double  the  amount  must  be  used. 


340  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

PEOPORTIONS  OF  RAISING  MATERIALS  TO  USE, 
AND  OTHER  ITEMS 

One  cake  of  compressed  yeast  is  equal  to  one  cupful  of  liquid 
yeast. 

Baking-powder  is  a  mixture  of  soda,  cream  of  tartar,  and  corn- 
starcli,  or  rice  flour. 

Use  one  level  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  to  each  cupful  of 
flour. 

Use  one  even  teaspoonful  of  soda  and  two  full  teaspoonfuls 
of  cream  of  tartar  to  a  quart  of  flour. 

When  sour  milk  is  used,  take  one  even  teaspoonful  of  soda 
to  a  pint  of  milk,  and  omit  the  cream  of  tartar. 

When  molasses  is  used,  omit  the  cream  of  tartar,  and  use  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda  to  each  cupful  of  molasses. 

Mix  powders  with  the  flour,  and  sift  them  together,  so  as  to 
thoroughly  mix  them. 

Mix  dry  materials  in  one  bowl  and  liquids  in  another;  com- 
bine them  quickly,  and  put  at  once  into  the  oven. 

The  oven  for  baking  bread  should  be  hot  enough  to  brown  a 
teaspoonful  of  flour  in  five  minutes.  For  biscuits  it  should 
brown  in  one  minute. 

Rolls  brashed  with  milk  just  before  baking  will  have  a  brown 
crust. 

Rubbing  the  crust  with  butter  just  before  it  is  taken  from 
the  oven  will  make  it  crisp. 


GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING  BREAD 

Bread  is  often  mixed  the  night  before  it  is  to  be 

baked,  and  left  to  rise  from  eight  to  ten  hours ;  but 

the  whole  process  of  bread-making,  from  the  mixing 

Kme  re-    to  the  serving,  can  be  done  in  two  and  a  half  hours  if 

^maMne^    Sufficient  yeast  is  used.    In  hot  weather  it  is  desii*able 

bread,      to  Complete  the  work  in  a  short  time,  in  order  to 

prevent  fermentation  or  souring,  which  occurs  if  left 


BREAD 


S41 


the  bread. 


too  long  a  time.  Four  hours  and  a  half  is  ample 
time  for  the  whole  process,  using  the  ordinary  amount 
of  yeast;  two  hours  for  the  mixing  and  rising  of 
the  sponge  or  dough  j  one  half  hour  for  the  knead- 
ing and  molding ;  one  hour  for  the  loaves  to  rise  in 
the  pans,  and  one  hour  for  the  baking. 

A  thin  batter  called  a  sponge  may  be  made  at  night, 
and  the  rest  of  the  flour  added  in  the  morning,  or  the 
dough  may  be  mixed  and  kneaded  at  night  and  only 
molded  into  loaves  in  the  morning;  but  a  better  way, 
especially  in  summer,  is  to  set  the  bread  early  in  the 
morning  and  have  it  baked  by  noon.  It  needs  to  rise 
twice,  once  either  in  the  sponge  or  in  the  dough,  and 
again  after  it  is  molded  into  loaves.  The  old  way  of 
letting  it  rise  three  times  is  unnecessary,  and  increases 
the  danger  of  souring.  If  the  dough  gets  very  light 
before  one  is  ready  to  work  it,  it  should  be  cut  away 
from  the  sides  of  the  pan  and  pressed  down  in  the 
center  with  the  knife.  This  liberates  some  of  the  gas 
and  retards  the  fermentation.  This  can  be  done  sev- 
eral times.  If  it  rises  too  high  it  will  collapse,  which 
means  souring,  but  before  that  it  loses  its  best  flavor, 
and  so  should  not  be  allowed  to  more  than  double  its 
bulk. 

The  proportions  of  flour,  liquid,  and  yeast  cannot 
be  exactly  given,  as  flour  of  different  qualities  and 
degrees  of  dryness  will  absorb  more  or  less  liquid, 
and  the  amount  of  yeast  to  be  used  depends  both  materials, 
upon  the  time  allowed  and  the  temperature. 

Two  cupfuls  of  liquid  will  take  six  to  seven  cupfuls 
of  sifted  flour,  and  this  will  make  two  small  loaves. 
One  half  a  compressed  yeast  cake  will  raise  this 
amount  in  two  hours  if  kept  in  a  warm  place.  The 
other  ingredients  for  this  quantity  are  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  and  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter,  lard,  or  cottolene,  if  shortening  is  desired. 


Propor- 
tions of 


342  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Bread  made  with  milk  instead  of  water,  and  with 
shortening,  is  more  tender  than  when  water  alone  is 
used.  BoUed  potatoes  are  sometimes  added,  and  give 
a  more  moist  bread. 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  a  part  of  the  tepid  water;  in 
the  rest  of  the  water  mix  the  salt,  sugar,  and  butter, 
add  the  dissolved  yeast,  and  then  stir  in  enough  flour 
to  make  a  soft  dough  which  will  not  stick  to  the 
hands.  If  the  flour  is  cold  warm  it.  If  milk  is  used, 
'l^xing.  scald  it,  then  allow  it  to  become  tepid  before  mixing 
it  with  the  yeast.  Place  the  pan  in  a  warm  place 
free  from  draughts.  When  the  dough  is  to  be  made 
into  rolls  or  fancy  forms,  it  needs  to  be  a  little  stiffer 
than  for  loaves. 

A  sponge  is  a  thin  batter  made  by  mixing  only  a 
Making  a  little  flour  with  the  other  ingredients.  This  is  left  to 
sponge,  stand  until  filled  with  large  bubbles.  The  rest  of 
the  flour  is  then  added,  to  make  the  dough. 

When  bread  is  to  be  made  in  a  short  time,  it  is 
better  to  set  a  sponge  instead  of  making  a  dough  at 
first ;  for  in  this  way  the  second  rising  will  be  a  little 
quicker. 

When  a  dough  is  mixed  and  set  aside  to  rise, 
on  dough,  cover  the  pan  with  several  thicknesses  of  cloth  to 
exclude  the  air  and  so  prevent  a  crust  forming  on 
the  top.  It  helps  also  to  keep  the  dough  at  an  even 
temperature.  If  a  crust  forms  it  is  difficult  to  mix  it 
in  so  thoroughly  that  it  does  not  leave  hard  spots  and 
lines  in  the  bread.  There  is  a  bread-pan  made  with 
close-fitting  cover,  which  is  recommended. 

When  the  dough  is  made,  it  should  be  kneaded  for 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  Turn  it  from  the  pan  on- 
to a  board,  and  work  it  by  drawing  it  forward  with 
Sd  mSd-  *^^  fingers  and  pushing  it  away  with  the  balls  of  the 
ing.  hands,  turning  it  all  the  time.  This  stretches  the 
gluten  and  changes  it  from  a  sticky  paste  to  a  smooth, 


BREAD  343 

elastic  substance.  Use  as  little  flour  on  the  board  as 
possible,  and  work  it  until  it  no  longer  sticks.  The 
more  it  is  worked  the  finer  will  be  the  grain,  and  the 
less  flour  used  the  better  will  be  the  bread. 

When  dough  is  made  at  the  first  mixing,  return  it 
to  the  pan  after  it  is  kneaded  and  let  it  rise  to  double 
its  size  (not  more),  and  then  work  it  down,  mold  it 
into  loaves,  and  let  it  rise  a  second  time  in  the  baking- 
pans.  When  a  sponge  is  made,  knead  the  dough  when 
the  flour  is  added  to  the  sponge,  and  put  it  at  once  Baking, 
into  the  baking-pans. 

Divide  the  dough  evenly  and  shape  it  to  the  pans 
as  well  as  possible,  filling  the  pans  only  half  full. 
Cover  and  set  them  in  a  warm  place  free  from 
draughts.  When  they  have  doubled  (not  more)  in 
size,  put  them  in  the  oven.  The  loaf  rises  a  little 
more  in  the  oven.  If  it  is  too  light,  it  is  likely  to  fall, 
which  means  it  has  soured,  and  for  this  there  is  no 
remedy.    The  loaf  in  the  pan  should  rise  in  one  hour. 

Care  in  baking  is  even  more  essential  than  care  in 
mixing  and  raising  the  bread.  Test  the  oven  by  put- 
ting in  a  teaspoonful  of  flour.  If  it  browns  the  flour 
in  five  minutes  the  heat  is  right.  Have  the  fire  pre-  The  fire, 
pared  so  it  will  not  need  replenishing  during  the  hour 
required  for  the  baking.  The  bread  rises  after  it 
goes  in  the  oven,  and  is  likely  to  rise  unevenly  if  the 
oven  is  hotter  on  one  side  than  the  other ;  therefore 
it  should  be  watched  and  turned  carefully  if  neces- 
sary. At  the  end  of  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  the  top 
should  be  browned,  and  this  will  arrest  the  rising.  If 
the  oven  is  too  cool,  the  bread  is  likely  to  rise  so 
much  as  to  run  over  the  pan,  or  to  have  a  hole  in  the 
center.  If  the  oven  is  too  hot  it  will  make  a  crust  Time, 
too  soon,  the  centre  be  underdone,  and  the  crust  be 
too  thick.  One  hour  is  the  time  required  for  baking 
the  ordinary  sized  loaf. 


344 


THE  CENTITBY  COOK  BOOK 


Care  of 


Floor. 


When  the  bread  is  taken  from  the  oven  turn  it  out 

of  the  pans  and  support  the  loaves  in  such  a  way  that 

the  air  will  reach  all  sides.    If  the  loaves  stand  flat 

bread'after  the  bottom  crust  will  become  moist.    If  wrapped  in 

it  is  baked,  cloth  it  wiU  do  the  same  and  give  a  soft  crust,  which, 

however,  some  prefer  to  have.    It  should  not  be  put 

in  the  bread-box  until  entirely  cold. 

For  baking  rolls  the  rule  is  different  from  that  for 

jj^yjj^     bread.   RoUs  should  rise,  to  be  very  light,  more  than 

birad  rolls,  double  their  original  size,  and  the  oven  be  hot  enough 

to  form  a  crust  at  once.  It  should  brown  flour  in  one 

minute  and  bake  the  rolls  in  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes. 

The  ordinary  white  flour  of  best  quality  is  nearly 

all  starch,  the  nourishing  parts  of  the  wheat  having 

been  mostly  all  removed  by  the  bolting  to  make  it 

white.    The  whole  wheat  flour  makes  a  much  more 

nourishing  and  health-giving  bread,  and  when  the 

habit  of  eating  it  is  once  formed,  bread  made  of  the 

white  flour  is  no  longer  liked. 

There  is  a  variety  of  bread-pans  giving  loaves  of 
different  shapes  to  be  used  for  different  purposes. 
Besides  the  square  tin  which  gives  the  ordinary  square 
loaf,  there  is  a  sheet  iron  rounded  pan  open  at  the 
ends.  The  dough  for  this  pan  is  made  into  a  long 
roll  a  little  thicker  in  the  middle  than  at  the  ends. 
It  gives  the  shape  of  the  Vienna  loaf.  After  the 
bread  has  risen  cut  it  across  the  top  in  three  diagonal 
slashes  with  a  sharp  knife ;  when  it  is  nearly  baked 
brush  over  the  top  with  a  thin  boiled  cornstarch,  and 
it  will  further  resemble  the  Vienna  loaf.  For  dinner 
bread,  there  is  a  pan  a  foot  long  of  two  flutes,  about 
two  inches  each  across  and  open  at  the  ends;  for  this 
roU  the  dough  long  and  round,  or  make  two  smaller 
rolls  and  twist  them  together;  bake  in  a  hot  oven 
like  biscuits.  This  gives  a  long,  round  crusty  loaf 
like  the  French  bread.    A  pan  of  small  flutes  is  used 


Fani. 


BREAD  345 


for  dinner  sticks  or  finger  rolls,  giving  a  pencil  of 
bread  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick  and  five  inches    Different 
long.    Bread  made  in  different  shapes  gives  a  pleasant     ywieV" 
variety  and  often  seems  like  a  different  article  when 
baked  so  as  to  give  more  or  less  crust. 


WATEB  BBEAD  No.  1 

(two  small  loaves) 

2  cupfuls  of  tepid  water.       J  compressed  yeast  cake. 
1  teaspoonf ul  of  salt.  6  to  7  cupfuls  of  flour. 

For  mixing,  kneading,  and  baking,  see  general  directions 
given  at  head  of  chapter. 

WATER  BEEAD  No.  2 

(two  small  loaves) 

2  cupfuls  of  tepid  water.  1  tablespoonful  of  sugar. 

^  cake  of  compressed  yeast.  1  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
1  teaspoonful  of  salt.  lard,  drippings,  or  cotto- 

6  to  7  cupfuls  of  flour.  lene. 

For  mixing,  kneading,  and  baking,  see  general  directions 
given  at  head  of  chapter. 

HOLE  BBEAD 

Make  the  same  as  Water  Bread  No.  2,  but  use  milk  in  place 
of  the  water,  or  use  half  milk  and  half  wp,ter. 

POTATO  BBEAD 

Add  one  medium-sized  mashed  boiled  potato  to  the  sponge  of 
any  of  the  foregoing  receipts.  Potato  gives  a  more  moist 
bread,  which  retains  its  freshness  longer. 


346  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

RECEIPT  FOR  ONE  LOAF  OF  BREAD   OR  OITB  PAN  OF 
BISCUITS  TO  BE  MADE  IN  TWO  HOURS 

1  cupful  of  scalded  milk.  1  tablespoonful  of  sugar. 

J  cupful  of  butter.  J  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

3  yeast  cakes.  White  of  one  egg. 

3  to  4  cupf  uls  of  flour. 

Make  a  sponge ;  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  in  a  pan  of  warm 
water  until  full  of  bubbles ;  then  add  the  flour,  knead  it  for 
twenty  minutes,  mold  into  loaf,  and  let  it  rise  in  the  baking- 
pan  until  double  in  size,  and  bake. 

BREAD  MADE  WITH  BAKING-POWDER 

Add  to  four  quarts  of  flour  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  six  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Sift  them  three  times  so  as  to 
thoroughly  mix  them,  and  then  add  slowly  a  quart  of  cold 
water,  or  enough  to  make  a  dough  of  the  right  consistency. 
Mold  it  quickly  into  four  loaves,  and  put  at  once  into  a  moder- 
ate oven  for  one  and  a  quarter  hours. 

BREAD  MADE  OF  WHOLE  WHEAT  FLOUR 

Dissolve  a  yeast  cake  in  two  tablespoonf uls  of  tepid  water. 
Put  into  a  bowl  a  pint  of  milk;  add  to  it  a  pint  of  boiling 
water,  and  let  it  stand  until  it  is  lukewarm ;  then  add  the  dis- 
solved yeast,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  enough  whole  wheat 
flour  to  make  a  thick  batter.  The  batter  should  drop,  but  not 
run  off  the  spoon.  Beat  this  batter  with  a  spoon  for  fifteen 
minutes.  It  becomes  quite  soft  and  liquid  by  beating.  Add 
enough  more  flour  to  make  a  dough ;  turn  it  onto  the  board  and 
knead  it  a  few  minutes ;  return  it  to  pan,  and  let  rise  for  three 
hours,  or  until  light.'  Mold  it  into  small  loaves ;  let  it  rise 
again,  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes. 

GRAHAM  BREAD 

Dissolve  a  half  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  a  cupful  of  lukewarm 
water.     Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  into  a  tablespoonful  and 


BEEAD  347 

a  half  of  molasses,  and  let  them  warm  until  the  butter  is  melted. 
Add  to  it  the  dissolved  soda  and  water,  and  a  half  teaspoonful 
of  salt.  Stir  this  mixture  into  a  cupful  of  light  white  bread 
sponge,  and  add  enough  Graham  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter, 
or  very  thin  dough.  Turn  into  a  greased  pan.  Let  it  rise  until 
even  with  the  top  of  the  pan,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  an 
hour  or  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Use  a  spoon,  and  not  the 
hands,  for  mixing  Graham  flour.  A  little  white  flour  may  be 
mixed  with  the  Graham  flour  if  a  lighter  colored  and  dryer  bread 
is  preferred. 

GLUTEN  BREAD 

Pour  a  pint  of  boiling  water  into  a  pint  of  milk ;  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Let  it  stand  until 
it  is  lukewarm ;  then  add  a  well-beaten  egg,  a  quarter  of  a  yeast- 
eake  dissolved,  and  enough  gluten  to  make  a  soft  batter.  Cover 
and  stand  in  a  warm  place  to  rise ;  then  add  enough  gluten  to 
make  a  soft  dough,  and  knead  it  well.  Form  it  into  four  loaves, 
and  let  rise  again.    Bake  for  one  hour. 

Gluten  bread  requires  less  yeast  and  less  time  to  rise  than 
ordinary  bread. 

BOSTON  BBOWN  BREAD 

2  cupfuls  of  white  commeal.  2  cupfuls  of  milk  (one  of 

2  cupfuls  of  yellow  cornmeal.  them  being  sour  milk,  if 

2  cupfuls  of  Graham  flour  or  of         convenient). 

rye  meal  or  of  white  flour.  2  cupfuls  of  boiling  water. 

1  cupful  of  molasses.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Mix  well  the  flour,  meal,  and  saltj  add  to  them  the  boiling 
water.  Mix  the  sweet  milk  and  molasses  together,  and  add 
them  to  the  scalded  meal.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  sour  milk, 
and  add  it  last.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  covered  cylindrical  mold 
or  into  a  covered  pail,  and  steam  it  for  three  hours  j  then  un- 
cover and  bake  in  the  oven  for  half  an  hour.  Slices  of  this 
bread  toasted,  buttered,  and  covered  with  cream  make  a  good 
breakfast  or  luncheon  dish. 


848  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

TOAST 

Cut  the  bread  in  even  slices  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick. 
Cut  off  the  crust  and  trim  the  pieces  iuto  even  and  uniform 
shape.  There  is  no  waste  in  this,  as  the  scraps  of  bread  can  be 
dried  and  crumbed.  If  the  bread  is  fresh,  let  it  dry  a  few  min- 
utes in  the  oven.  Place  it  on  a  wire  toaster,  and  turn  often  un- 
til well  dried  through ;  then  hold  it  over  the  coals  a  minute  to 
take  an  even  golden  color.  Toast  requires  careful  watching,  or 
it  will  bum  or  be  unevenly  colored.  Toast  should  not  be 
served  until  the  moment  it  is  required.  A  few  pieces  only 
should  be  served  at  a  time,  and  the  plate  should  be  hot.  If 
wrapped  in  a  napkin,  or  piled  up,  it  quickly  becomes  damp  and 
loses  its  crispness.  If  a  soft  toast  is  wanted,  color  the  bread  at 
once  without  drying  it;  the  center  will  then  be  only  heated. 
Toast  used  under  game  or  meats  is  made  dry,  buttered,  and 
sprinkled  with  salt  j  then  softened  with  a  little  boiling  water. 

MUX  TOAST 

Make  a  dry  toast ;  spread  it  with  butter,  and  sprinkle  it  with 
salt.  Place  it  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  to  be  served,  and  pour 
over  it  a  little  boiling  water ;  cover  it,  and  place  in  the  oven  a 
few  minutes  to  steam  and  soak  up  the  water.  It  should  have 
enough  water  to  entirely  soften  it,  but  not  lose  its  shape.  Put 
one  teaspoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan.  When  it  bubbles,  stir 
in  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  let  it  cook  a  minute  without 
coloring.  Add  slowly,  stirring  all  the  time,  one  cupful  of  milk. 
Cook  until  it  is  slightly  thickened ;  add  a  saltspoonf  ul  of  salt. 
Pour  this  thickened  milk  over  the  softened  toast  just  before 
serving.  Bread  for  milk  toast  should  be  cut  in  even  slices  one 
half  inch  thick,  thoroughly  dried  in  toasting,  evenly  colored, 
and  steamed  until  tender.  When  cream  is  used,  it  is  scalded 
and  poured  over  the  softened  toast. 

PANADA 

Split  Bent^s  water  biscuits  in  two;  sprinkle .  salt  or  sugar 
between  them,  and  place  together  again;   or,  use  two  large 


BEEAD  349 

soda  biscuits,  or  pilot  bread,  or  Passover  bread.  Place  them 
in  the  dish  in  which  they  will  be  served;  pour  over  enough 
boiling  water  to  cover  them.  Cover  the  dish,  and  place  it  in 
the  open  oven,  or  on  the  hot  shelf,  until  the  bisGuits  have  be- 
come soft  like  jelly;  pour  off  any  water  that  has  not  been 
absorbed,  using  care  not  to  break  the  biscuits.  Sprinkle  again 
with  salt  or  sugar.  A  little  cream  or  hot  milk  can  be  added  if 
desired. 

PULLED  BREAD 

Break  off  irregular  pieces  of  the  crumb  of  fresh  bread,  and 
di*y  it  in  a  very  slow  oven  until  lightly  colored.  The  inside  of 
fresh  biscuits  left  over  can  be  treated  in  this  way,  and  will  keep 
an  indefinite  time.  They  should  be  heated  in  the  oven  when 
served,  and  are  good  with  chocolate,  or  coffee,  or  bouillon.  The 
crusts  of  the  biscuits  may  be  used  as  cups  for  creamed  meats 
or  vegetables,  or  for  eggs. 

ZWIEBACK 

Cut  rusks  into  slices  one  half  inch  thick,  and  dry  them  in  a 
very  slow  oven  until  dried  through,  and  of  a  deep  yellow  color. 
Slices  of  Vienna  bread  can  be  used  in  the  same  way. 

BREAD  FRITTERS 

Take  pieces  of  raised  bread-dough  the  size  of  an  egg,  drop 
them  into  smoking  hot  fat,  and  fry  to  a  cold  color,  the  same  as 
doughnuts.  Drain  and  serve  on  a  napkin  for  breakfast,  or 
sprinkle  them  with  powdered  sugar  and  ground  cinnamon 
mixed,  and  serve  them  for  luncheon. 

BREAD  ROLLS 

For  one  panful  of  biscuits  take  as  much  raised  bread-dough 
as  will  make  one  loaf  of  bread.  Use  any  kind  of  bread-dough, 
but  if  no  shortening  has  been  used,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter to  this  amount  of  dough.  Add  also  more  flour  to  make 
a  stiffer  dough  than  for  bread.    Work  it  for  ten  minutes  so  as 


350  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

to  give  it  a  finer  grain.  Cut  it  into  pieces  haK  the  size  of  an 
egg,  roll  them  into  balls,  and  place  in  a  pan  some  distance 
apart.  If  enough  space  is  given,  each  roll  will  be  covered  with 
crust,  which  is  the  best  part  of  hot  breads.  If,  however,  the 
crumb  is  preferred,  place  them  in  the  pan  near  enough  to  run 
together  in  rising.  Let  the  biscuits  rise  to  more  than  double 
size,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  twenty  to  thirty  minutes. 

When  removed  from  the  oven  rub  the  crusts  with  a  little 
butter,  and  wrap  the  rolls  in  a  cloth  until  ready  to  serve.  This 
will  give  a  tender  crust.  If  a  deep  color  is  liked,  brush  the  rolls 
with  milk  or  egg  before  placing  them  in  the  oven.  A  glaze 
is  obtained  by  brushing  them  with  sugar  dissolved  in  milk 
when  taken  from  the  oven,  then  replacing  them  in  the  oven 
again  for  a  moment  to  dry. 

GRESGEKTS 

Add  to  bread-dough  a  little  more  sugar,  and  enough  flour 
to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Roll  it  to  one  eighth  inch  thickness. 
Cut  it  into  strips  six  inches  wide,  and  then  into  sharp  triangles. 
Roll  them  up,  commencing  at  the  base;  the  point  of  the  tri- 
angle will  then  come  in  the  middle  of  the  roU.  Turn  the  points 
around  into  the  shape  of  crescents.  Place  on  tins  to  rise  for 
half  an  hour,  brush  the  tops  with  water,  and  bake  until  lightly 
colored.  When  taken  from  the  oven  brush  the  tops  with  thin 
boiled  cornstarch  water,  and  place  again  for  a  minute  in  the 
oven  to  glaze. 

BRAIDS  AND  TWISTS 

Take  any  bread-  or  biscuit-dough.  Roll  it  one  inch  thick, 
and  cut  it  into  strips  one  inch  wide.  Roll  the  strips  on  the 
board  to  make  them  round.  Brush  the  strips  with  butter. 
Braid  or  twist  the  strips  together,  making  them  pointed  at  the 
ends,  and  broad  in  the  middle.  Let  them  rise  a  little,  but  not 
so  much  as  to  lose  shape,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Glaze  the 
tops  the  same  as  directed  above  for  crescents. 


BEEAD  351 

CLEFT  ROLLS 

Make  the  dough  into  balls  of  the  size  desired.    After  the 

rolls  have  jisen  cut  each  roll  across  the  top  with  a  sharp  knife 

about  an  inch  deep.    If  cut  twice  it  makes  a  cross  roll.    Glaze 

the  tops  as  directed  for  crescents,  or  brush  them  with  milk  and 

sugar. 

LUNCHEON  AND  TEA  ROLLS 

2  quarts  of  flour.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

3  cups  of  boiled  mUk.  J  cupful  of  butter. 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.          Whites  of  2  eggs. 

^  yeast  cake. 

Boil  the  milk,  dissolve  in  it  the  sugar  and  salt,  and  add  the 
butter  to  melt  it.  When  this  mixture  becomes  tepid,  add  the 
beaten  whites  of  the  eggs  and  the  yeast,  dissolved  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water;  then  stir  in  the  flour,  and  knead  it  for 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes;  cover  it  well,  and  put  it  aside  in 
a  warm  place  free  from  draughts  to  rise  over  night.  If  to 
be  used  for  breakfast,  mold  the  rolls  to  any  shape  desired;  let 
them  rise  to  more  than  double  their  size,  and  bake  for  thirty 
minutes.  If  they  are  to  be  used  for  luncheon,  cut  down  with  a 
knife  the  raised  dough  in  the  morning,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool 
place  until  an  hour  and  a  half  before  the  time  for  serving  the 
rolls;  then  mold,  raise,  and  bake  them.  If  they  are  to  be  used 
for  tea,  do  not  set  the  dough  until  morning.  In  summer  allow 
four  and  a  haK  hours  for  the  whole  work,  the  same  as  directed 
for  bread  on  page  340. 

PARKER  HOUSE   ROLLS 

2  quarts  of  flour.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,      1  pint  of  milk. 
or  lard,  or  cottolene.  J  compressed  yeast  cake. 

^  cupful  of  sugar  (scant). 

Put  the  salt  into  the  flour,  and  work  in  the  shortening  thor- 
oughly. Dissolve  the  yeast  in  one  cupful  of  warm  water. 
Scald  the  mOk,  and  dissolve  the  sugar  in  it  after  it  is  taken  off 


352  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

the  fire.  When  the  milk  is  lukewarm,  mix  the  yeast  with  it. 
Make  a  hollow  in  the  center  of  the  flour,  and  pour  into  it  the 
milk  and  yeast  mixture.  Sprinkle  a  little  of  the  flour  over  the 
top.  Cover  the  pan  well,  and  leave  it  to  rise.  If  this  sponge  is 
set  at  five  o'clock,  at  ten  o'clock  stir  the  whole  together  thor- 
oughly with  a  spoon.  Do  not  beat  it,  but  stir  it  well,  as  it  gets 
no  other  kneading.  In  the  morning  turn  the  dough  onto  a 
board,  work  it  together  a  little,  and  roll  it  evenly  one  half  inch 
thick.  Lift  the  dough  off  the  board  a  little  to  let  it  shrink 
aU  it  will  before  cutting.  Cut  it  into  rounds  with  a  good-sized 
biscuit-cutter.  Place  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  one  side,  and 
double  the  other  side  over  it,  so  the  edges  meet.  Let  them  rise 
for  two  hours,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  If 
the  rolls  are  to  be  used  for  luncheon,  cut  down  the  dough  in 
the  morning,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  until  the  time  for  mold- 
ing them.  If  for  tea,  set  the  sponge  in  the  morning,  using  one 
haK  cake  of  compressed  yeast.* 

TEA  BISCUITS  MADE  WITH  BAKING  POWDER 

4  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

3  teaspoonf uls  of  baking-powder.  1  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
Add  the  salt  and  baking-powder  to  the  flour  and  sift  them. 
Rub  in  the  butter  well.  With  a  fork  stir  in  lightly  and  quickly 
sufficient  milk  to  make  a  soft  dough.  The  dough  must  be  only 
just  stiff  enough  to  roU.  Flour  the  board  well,  turn  the  dough 
onto  it,  and  lightly  roll  it  to  a  haK  inch  thickness.  Cut  it  into 
small  circles,  brush  the  tops  with  milk,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes. 

BISCUITS  MADE  WITH  SOUR  MILE 
1  quart  of  flour.  1  tablespoonful  of  but- 

1  teaspoonful  of  soda.  ter  or  lard. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Milk. 

Mix  the  soda  and  the  salt  with  the  flour,  and  sift  them  several 
times  so  they  will  be  thoroughly  mixed.    Rub  in  the  butter 

*  Place  the  rolls  far  enougli  apart  in  the  pan  to  give  room  for  them  to  rise  without 
ronnlng  together. 


6KEAD  353 

evenly.  Stir  in  lightly  with  a  fork  enough  sour  milk  to  make 
a  dough  just  stiff  enough  to  roll.  The  dough  can  be  left  very 
soft  if  the  board  is  well  floured  and  the  rolling-pin  is  used  very 
lightly,  patting  the  dough  rather  than  rolling  it.  Roll  it  out 
quickly  an  inch  thick.  Cut  it  into  small  rounds.  Bake  in  a 
quick  oven  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  The  dough  can  be  roUed 
half  an  inch  thick,  and  two  rounds  placed  together  with  a 
small  bit  of  butter  between.  They  are  then  called  twin  biscuits. 
These  biscuits  may  be  made  of  sweet  milk,  in  which  case  two 
rounding  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar  must  be  used  with  the 
soda  and  mixed  with  the  flour. 

CORN  BEEAD  No.    1 

2  cupfuls  of  flour.  3  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 

IJ  cupfuls  of  cornmeal  (yel-        ing  powder. 

low  or  white).  1§  cupfuls  of  milk. 

^  cupful  of  sugar.  1  tablespoonful  of  but- 

1  saltspoonf  ul  of  salt.  ter  or  lard  melted. 

2  eggs. 

Mix  the  flour,  meal,  salt,  and  baking-powder  together  thor- 
oughly. Beat  together  the  eggs  and  sugar ;  add  the  butter,  then 
the  flour  mixture,  and  lastly  mix  in  quickly  the  milk  and  turn 
into  a  flat  pan  to  bake.  Sour  milk  can  be  used  instead  of  sweet 
milk,  in  which  case  a  teaspoonf ul  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  quarter 
of  a  cupful  of  hot  water  is  used,  and  baking-powder  is  omitted. 

COEN  BREAD  No.  2 

1  cupful  of  fine  cornmeal  sifted.    1  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
IJ  cupfuls  of  milk.  1  teaspoonful  of  baking- 

2  eggs.  powder. 

1  teaspoonful  of  sugar. 
Scald  the  milk  and  pour  it  onto  the  sifted  meal.  Let  it  cool, 
then  add  the  melted  butter,  salt,  sugar,  baking-powder,  and 
yolks  of  the  eggs.  Stir  it  quickly  and  thoroughly  together, 
and  lastly  fold  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth. 
Bake  in  a  flat  pan  in  a  hot  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 

23 


364  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

PUPFS  OE  POP-OVERS 

2  cupfiils  of  milk.  2  eggs  (whites  and  yolks 

2  cupf Ills  of  flour,  beaten  separately). 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Mix  the  salt  with  the  flour.  Mix  the  beaten  yolks  with  the 
milk,  and  add  them  slowly  to  the  flour  to  make  a  smooth  batter. 
Lastly  fold  in  the  whipped  whites.  Put  the  batter  at  once  into 
hot  greased  gem-pans,  filling  them  half  full,  and  put  into  a  hot 
oven  for  thirty  minutes.  Serve  at  once,  as  they  fall  as  soon  as 
the  heat  is  lost. 

GRAHAM  GEMS 

2  cupfuls  of  Graham  flour,       2  eggs. 

1  cupful  of  milk.  J  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  cupful  of  water.  1  tablespoonf ul  of  sugar. 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together;  beat  the  eggs  separately. 
Mix  the  milk  with  the  salt  and  sugar ;  add  the  water,  then  the 
flour,  and  lastly  fold  in  the  whipped  whites,  and  put  at  once 
into  very  hot  greased  gem-pans,  filling  them  half  full.  Bake  in 
a  hot  oven  thirty  minutes. 

CORN  GEMS 

(MADE  OP  CORN  PLOUB) 

2  eggs.  1  tablespoonf  ul  of  butter. 
1  cupful  of  corn  flour.              1  cupful  of  milk, 

^  cupful  of  white  flour.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Break  the  yolks  of  the  eggs ;  add  to  them  milk,  salt,  and  melted 
butter;  mix  them  well  together,  then  add  the  two  kinds  of 
flour.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ;  when  they 
are  ready,  add  the  baking-powder  to  the  flour  mixture  and 
then  fold  in  lightly  the  whipped  whites.  Turn  at  once  into 
warm  gem-pans,  a  tablespoonful  of  batter  into  each  one,  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  This  receipt  can  be  used 
for  any  kind  of  flour. 


BEEAD  356 

Muimrs  No.  1 

2  cupfuls  of  flour.  2  eggs  (beaten  separately). 

1  cupful  of  milk.  J  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  level  tablespoonf ul  of  butter. .     2  even  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder. 

Mix  thoroughly  the  baking-powder  and  salt  with  the  flour. 
Stir  the  milk  and  yolks  together ;  add  the  butter,  melted ;  then 
the  flour,  and  lastly  fold  in  the  whipped  whites.  Turn  into 
hot  gem-pans,  and  bake  at  once  in  a  very  hot  oven  for  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes.    Serve  immediately. 

BAISED  MUFFINS 

1  pint  of  milk,  scalded.  1  tablespoonful  of  sugar. 
^  compressed  yeast-cake.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

2  tablespoonf uls  of  butter.        About  2^  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Scald  the  milk,  and  add  the  butter,  sugar  and  salt.  When  it 
has  become  lukewarm,  add  the  yeast  dissolved  in  a  quarter  cup- 
ful of  lukewarm  water.  Stir  in  enousrh  flour  to  make  a  drop 
batter,  cover  it  well,  place  it  in  a  warm  place  free  from  draughts, 
and  let  rise  over  night.  In  the  morning  stir  it  down,  grease 
some  muffln-rings,  place  them  on  a  hot  greased  griddle,  fill  the 
rings  half  full  of  batter.  It  will  rise  to  the  top.  Turn  the  muffins 
with  a  pancake  turaer  and  bake  them  on  both  sides  until  a  thin 
brown  crust  is  formed.  Two  eggs  may  be  added  to  the  batter 
in  the  morning  if  desired.  If  so,  beat  the  yolks  and  whites 
separately  and  add  the  whites  last. 

ENGLISH  MUFFINS  OE  CRUMPETS 

Use  the  receipt  for  raised  muffins,  omitting  the  sugar  and 
eggs.  Do  not  bake  them  so  much.  Turn  them  before  the  crust 
becomes  brown.    When  cold,  pull  them  apart  and  toast  them. 

SALLT  lUNN 

This  is  the  same  as  the  receipt  for  Muffins  No.  1,  using  three 
eggs  instead  of  two,  and  baking  it  in  a  cake-tin  instead  of  gem- 
pans.    In  this  form  it  is  served  for  luncheon  or  for  tea. 


356  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

WAPPLES 

2  cupfuls  of  flour.  1  tablespoonful  of  butter,  or 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.        lard,  or  cottolene. 
li  cupfuls  of  milk.  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

3  eggs  beaten  separately. 

Mix  the  flour,  baking-powder,  and  salt  thoroughly  together. 
Mix  the  yolks  with  the  milk  j  then  the  melted  butter,  the  flour, 
and  lastly  the  beaten  whites.  Have  the  waffle-iron  very  clean  j 
let  it  be  thoroughly  heated  on  both  sides.  Rub  it  over  with  a 
piece  of  salt  pork,  or  with  a  piece  of  butter  tied  in  a  clean  rag. 
Close  the  iron,  and  turn  it  so  the  grease  will  cover  every  part. 
Put  enough  batter  into  each  section  of  the  iron  to  fill  it  two- 
thirds  f  uU.  Shut  the  iron,  and  cook  the  waffles  a  minute  or 
longer  on  each  side.  Serve  the  waffles  hot,  using  with  them 
syrup  or  powdered  sugar  mixed  with  ground  cinnamon. 

HOMINY  CAKE 

Stir  into  one  cupful  of  boiled  hominy  while  it  is  still  hot  a 
teaspoonful  of  butter,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs  well  beaten ;  add  slowly  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  then 
a  half  cupful  of  fine  cornmeal;  lastly,  fold  in  the  whipped 
whites  of  two  eggs.  Bake  in  a  flat  tin  in  a  hot  oven  for 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  Cold  boiled  hominy  left  over  can  be 
used  for  this  dish  by  heating  it  with  enough  water  to  moisten  it. 

OAT  CAKE 

Mix  oatmeal,  which  is  ground  flue,  with  a  little  salt  and 
enough  water  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Roll  it  on  a  floured  board 
to  one  eighth  inch  thickness,  and  bake  it  in  one  sheet  in  a  slow 
oven  without  browning,  until  dry  and  hard.  It  should  be  gray 
in  color.  When  done,  break  it  into  irregular  pieces.  This  is  a 
Scotch  dish,  and  in  Scotland  is  made  with  a  fine  oat  flour, 
which  is  difficult  to  obtain  in  this  country. 


BREAD  357 

BRAN  BISCUITS 

1  pint  of  bran.  ^  pint  of  milk. 

^  pint  of  flour.  6  tablespoonf  uls  of  molasses. 

1  even  teaspoonf  ul  of  baking  soda. 

Mix  the  bran,  flour,  and  soda  together  j  mix  the  molasses  and 
milk  together,  and  add  the  flour  mixture.  Bake  in  gem-pans. 
Two  of  these  biscuits  eaten  at  each  meal  act  as  a  laxative  and 
cure  for  constipation.    The  receipt  is  furnished  by  a  physician. 

BREAD  STICKS 

Any  bread-dough  may  be  used,  though  that  with  shortening 
is  preferred.  After  it  is  kneaded  enough  to  be  elastic,  cut  it  into 
pieces  half  the  size  of  an  egg,  roll  it  on  the  board  into  a  stick 
the  size  of  a  pencil  and  a  foot  long.  Lay  the  strips  on  a  floured 
baking-tin  or  sheet.  Let  them  rise  a  very  little,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven,  so  they  will  dry  without  browning.  Serve  them 
with  bouillon  or  soups,  or  with  tea. 

RUSES 

1  cupful  of  milk  scalded.  2  eggs. 

2  tablespoonf  uls  of  butter.       ^  cake  of  compressed  yeast. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.        ^  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt. 

Flour. 

Make  a  sponge  (see  directions  at  head  of  chapter),  using  the 
milk,  salt,  and  yeast.  When  it  is  full  of  bubbles,  add  the  but- 
ter, sugar,  and  well-beaten  eggs.  Stir  in  enough  flour  to  make 
a  soft  dough.  Knead  it  for  twenty  minutes.  Let  it  rise  to 
double  its  bulk ;  then  mold  it  into  baUs  the  size  of  half  an  egg. 
Place  them  rather  close  together  in  a  baking-tin,  and  let  them 
rise  until  very  light.  When  they  are  ready  to  go  into  the  oven, 
brash  over  the  tops  with  sugar  dissolved  in  milk,  and  sprinkle 
the  tops  with  dry  sugar.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  about  half  an  hour. 
Rusks  must  be  well  kneaded  and  be  very  light  before  being 
baked.  A  part  of  the  dough  set  for  bread  may  be  made  into 
rusks  by  adding  to  it  an  egg,  sugar,  and  butter. 


868  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

DBIED  BTTSES 

Cut  rusks  that  are  a  day  old  into  slices  one  half  inch  thick, 
and  dry  them  in  a  slow  oven  until  a  fine  golden  color. 

BATH  BUNS 

4  cupfuls  of  flour.  ^  teaspoonf ul  of  salt. 

1  cupful  of  milk.  ^  nutmeg  grated. 

^  cupful  of  sugar.  ^  compressed  yeast-cake. 

J  cupful  of  butter.  3  eggs. 

Mix  the  salt,  sugar,  and  grated  nutmeg  with  the  flour.  Scald 
the  milk  and  melt  the  butter  in  it.  Dissolve  the  yeast  in  a 
quarter  cupful  of  lukewarm  water.  When  the  scalded  milk  has 
become  lukewarm,  add  to  it  the  dissolved  yeast  and  the  eggs, 
which  have  been  well  beaten,  the  yolks  and  whites  separately ; 
then  add  the  flour.  Use  more  flour  than  given  in  the  receipt,  if 
necessary,  but  keep  the  dough  as  soft  as  possible.  Knead  it  on 
a  board  for  twenty  minutes.  Let  it  rise  over  night  in  a  warm 
place,  well  covered.  In  the  morning  turn  it  on  to  the  molding- 
board,  roll  it  and  rub  it  lightly  with  butter,  then  fold  it  several 
times,  cut  it  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  large  egg,  and  mold  it  into 
balls.  The  folding  is  to  make  it  peel  oflP  in  layers  when  baked, 
but  may  be  omitted  if  desired.  Press  into  the  side  of  each  bun, 
after  it  is  molded,  a  piece  of  citron  and  lump  of  sugar  wet  with 
lemon-juice.  Place  the  buns  in  a  baking-tin  and  let  them  rise  to 
more  than  double  their  size.  Brush  the  tops  with  egg  diluted  with 
water  to  give  a  brown  crust.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an 
hour.  When  baked,  brush  over  the  tops  with  sugar  dissolved  in 
milk,  and  return  to  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  glaze.  Sprinkle 
a  little  powdered  sugar  over  the  tops  as  soon  as  they  are  removed 
from  the  oven. 

COFFEE  CAKE 

Take  two  cupfuls  of  bread  sponge,  add  one  egg  well  beaten,  a 
half  cupful  of  sugar,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  a  cupful  of 
tepid  water.  Mix  them  well  together,  then  add  enough  flour  to 
make  a  thin  dough.    Let  it  rise  until  double  in  size.    Turn  it 


BEEAD  369 

on  a  board,  and  roll  it  out  an  inch  thick.  Place  it  in  a  baking- 
tin,  cutting  it  to  fit  the  tin,  and  let  it  rise  again  until  light. 
Just  before  placing  it  in  the  oven,  spread  over  the  top  an  egg 
beaten  with  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Sprinkle  over  this  some 
granulated  sugar,  and  a  few  split  blanched  almonds.  If  pre- 
ferred, the  dough  may  be  twisted  and  shaped  into  rings  instead 
of  being  baked  in  sheets.  This  cake,  which  is  a  kind  of  bun,  is, 
as  well  as  bath  buns,  a  good  luncheon  dish  to  serve  in  place  of 
cake;  or  either  of  them,  served  with  a  cup  of  chocolate,  makes  a 
good  light  luncheon  in  itself. 

BBIOCHE 

Brioche  is  a  kind  of  light  bun  mixture  much  used  in  France. 
It  has  many  uses,  and  is  much  esteemed.  It  wiU  not  be  found 
difficult  or  troublesome  to  make  after  the  first  trial.  The  paste 
once  made  can  be  used  for  plain  brioche  cakes,  buns,  rings, 
baba,  savarins,  fruit  timbales  (see  page  406),  cabinet  puddings, 
etc. 

1  cake  of  compressed  yeast.       7  eggs. 

J  cupful  of  lukewarm  f  pound  of  butter, 

water,  J  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  quart  of  flour.  2  teaspoonf  uls  of  sugar. 

Dissolve  the  yeast-cake  in  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  lukewarm 
water.  Stir  it  so  it  will  be  thoroughly  mixed,  then  add  enough 
flour  to  make  a  very  soft  ball  of  paste.  Drop  this  ball  into 
a  pan  of  warm  water  (the  water  must  not  be  hot,  or  it  will  kill 
the  yeast  plant).  Cover,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise, 
which  will  take  about  an  hour.  This  is  for  leaven  to  raise  the 
brioche.  The  ball  of  paste  will  sink  to  the  bottom  of  the  water 
at  first,  but  will  rise  to  the  top  later,  and  be  full  of  bubbles. 

Put  the  rest  of  the  flour  on  a  platter,  and  make  a  well 
in  the  center  of  it.  Into  this  well  put  the  butter,  salt,  sugar, 
and  four  eggs.  Break  the  eggs  in  whole,  and  have  the  butter 
rather  soft.  Work  them  together  with  the  hand,  gradually  in- 
corporating the  flour,  and  adding  two  more  eggs,  one  at  a  time. 


360  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

"Work  and  beat  it  with  the  hand  until  it  loses  its  stickiness, 
which  will  take  some  time.  "When  the  leaven  is  sufficiently 
light,  lift  it  out  of  the  water  with  a  skimmer,  and  place  it  with 
the  dough.  Work  them  together,  add  one  more  egg,  the  last  of 
the  seven,  and  beat  it  for  a  long  time,  using  the  hand.  The 
longer  it  is  beaten  the  better  and  the  finer  will  be  the  grain. 
Put  the  paste  in  a  bowl,  cover,  and  let  it  rise  to  double  its  size, 
which  will  take  four  to  five  hours;  then  beat  it  down  again, 
and  place  it  on  the  ice  for  twelve  or  twenty-four  hours.  As 
beating  and  raising  the  paste  require  so  much  time,  the  work 
should  be  started  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  used. 

After  taking  the  paste  from  the  ice,  it  will  still  be  quite  soft, 
and  have  to  be  handled  delicately  and  quickly.  It  softens 
more  as  it  becomes  warm. 


TO  MAKE  A  BBIOCHE  BOLL  WITH  HEAD 

Take  up  carefully  a  little  of  the  paste,  and  turn  it  into  a  ball 
about  three  inches  in  diameter;  flatten  it  a  little  on  top,  and  with 
a  knife  open  a  little  place  on  top,  and  lay  a  small  ball  of  paste 
into  it.  Let  it  rise  to  double  its  size,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  If  a  glazed  top  is  wanted, 
brush  it  over  with  egg  yolk  diluted  one  half  with  water,  before 
putting  it  in  the  oven.    Serve  hot  or  perfectly  fresh. 


TO  MAKE  A  BEIOGHE  GEOWN  OE  EIKO 

Mold  the  paste  into  a  ball,  roll  it  down  to  a  thickness  of  half 
an  inch,  keeping  the  form  round.  Cut  it  several  times  through 
the  middle,  and  twist  the  paste  into  a  rope-like  ring.  Let  it 
rise,  brush  the  top  with  egg,  and  bake  in  a  well-heated  oven  for 
about  half  an  hour. 

TO  MAKE  BUNS 

Roll  the  paste  into  small  balls,  glaze  the  tops  when  ready 
to  go  into  the  oven,  and  bake  about  twenty  minutes. 


BREAD  361 

BEIOCHE  FOR  TIMBALE,   OR  CABINET  PUDDINGS 

When  the  brioche  is  to  be  used  for  timbales,  or  cabinet  pud- 
dings, turn  the  paste  into  a  cylindrical  mold,  filling  it  half  full. 
Let  it  rise  to  the  top  of  the  mold,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for 
about  half  an  hour. 

PANCAKES 

The  batter  for  pancakes  should  be  smooth,  and  thin  enough 
to  run  freely  when  turned  onto  the  griddle.  In  order  to  have 
all  the  cakes  of  the  same  size  an  equal  quantity  of  batter  must 
be  used  for  each  cake.  It  should  be  poured  steadily  at  one 
point,  so  the  batter  will  flow  evenly  in  aU  directions,  making 
the  cake  perfectly  round.  An  iron  spoonful  of  batter  makes  a 
cake  of  good  size;  but  if  a  larger  one  is  wanted,  use  a  ladle 
or  cup ;  for  if  the  batter  is  put  on  the  hot  griddle  by  separate 
spoonfuls,  the  first  becomes  a  little  hardened  before  the  second 
is  added,  and  the  cake  will  not  be  evenly  baked,  or  have  so 
good  an  appearance.  Lastly,  the  baking  is  of  great  importance. 
The  cakes  must  be  weU  browned  on  both  sides,  the  color  even 
and  uniform  on  every  part.  To  effect  this  the  griddle  must  be 
perfectly  clean  and  evenly  heated.  A  soap-stone  griddle  is  the 
best,  as  it  holds  the  heat  well,  and  as  it  requires  no  greasing. 
The  cakes  baked  thus  are  by  some  considered  more  wholesome. 
The  griddle  should  stand  on  the  range  for  some  time  before 
it  is  needed  in  order  to  get  thoroughly  and  evenly  heated. 
Where  an  iron  griddle  is  used,  it  should  also  be  given  time  to 
become  evenly  heated;  and  while  the  cakes  are  baking  it 
should  be  moved  so  the  edges  may  in  turn  come  over  the 
hottest  part  of  the  range.  It  must  be  wiped  off  and  greased 
after  each  set  of  cakes  is  baked.  A  piece  of  salt  pork  on 
a  fork  is  the  best  thing  for  greasing,  as  it  makes  an  even 
coating,  and  too  much  grease  is  not  likely  to  be  used.  An  iron 
griddle  is  often  allowed  by  careless  cooks  to  collect  a  crust 
of  burned  grease  around  the  edges.  When  in  this  condition, 
the  cakes  will  not,  of  course,  be  properly  baked.  The  griddle 
should  be  hot  enough  to  hiss  when  the  batter  is  turned  onto 


362  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

it.  Serve  the  cakes  as  soon  as  baked,  in  a  folded  napkin  on  a 
hot  plate.  Two  plates  should  be  used,  so  while  one  is  being 
passed  the  next  griddlef  ul  may  be  prepared  to  serve. 

PLAIN  PANCAKES 

Stir  two  eupfuls  of  milk  into  two  beaten  eggs;  add  enough 
flour  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Add  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Sour  milk  can 
be  used,  in  which  case  omit  the  baking-powder  and  add  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  soda.  The  baking-powder  or  soda  should  not 
be  put  in  until  just  before  beginning  to  bake  the  cakes.  The 
cakes  will  be  lighter  and  better  if  the  eggs  are  beaten  separately, 
and  the  whipped  whites  added  the  last  thing. 

FLANNEL  CAKES 

1  tablespoon  fill  of  butter.  2  eupfuls  of  flour. 

1  tablespoonful  of  sugar.  Milk. 

2  eggs.  1  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  beaten  eggs, 
then  the  flour,  in  which  the  baking-powder  has  been  sifted. 
Add  enough  milk  to  make  a  smooth,  thin  batter. 

BICE  PANCAKES 

Make  the  same  batter  as  for  plain  cakes,  using  half  boiled 
rice  and  half  flour.  Any  of  the  cereals — hominy,  oatmeal, 
cracked  wheat,  etc. — can  be  used  in  the  same  way,  utilizing  any 
small  quantities  left  over;  a  little  butter  is  sometimes  added. 

BREAD  PANCAKES 

Soak  stale  bread  in  hot  water  until  moistened ;  press  out  the 
water.  To  two  eupfuls  of  softened  bread,  add  two  beaten  eggs, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  half  cupful  of  flour,  and  enough  milk  to 
make  a  thin,  smooth  batter;  add,  the  last  thing,  a  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder,  or  use  soda  if  sour  milk  has  been  used  in  the 
batter. 


BBEAD  368 

COBNMEAL  PANCAKES 

Pour  a  little  boiling  water  on  a  cupful  of  commeal,  and  let  it 
stand  half  an  hour.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  tablespoonful 
of  sugar,  one  egg  and  two  cupfuls  of  flour.  Add  enough  milk 
to  make  a  smooth  batter,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 
just  before  baking.  Instead  of  white  flour  rye  meal  may  be 
used:  one  cupful  of  rye  to  one  of  cornmeal,  a  tablespoonful  of 
molasses  instead  of  the  sugar,  and  soda  in  place  of  baking- 
powder. 

BUCKWHEAT  CAKES 

Scald  a  cupful  of  yellow  meal  in  a  quart  of  boiling  milk. 
Add  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt;  when  cold  add  a  quarter  of 
a  compressed  yeast-cake,  and  enough  buckwheat  flour  to  make 
a  soft  batter.  Beat  it  well  together.  Let  it  rise  over  night. 
In  the  morning  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  molasses  and  a  tea- 
spoonful of  soda.  Although  the  above  method  is  the  old 
and  better  way,  these  cakes  can  be  made  in  the  morning,  and 
baking-powder  used  instead  of  yeast ;  in  which  case  divide  the 
batter,  and  add  the  baking-powder,  one  half  at  a  time. 

ADIRONDACK  PANCAKES 

Bake  several  pancakes  as  large  as  a  plate.  Butter,  and  cover 
them  with  maple  syrup.  Pile  them  one  on  another,  and  cut 
like  a  pie. 


Chaptee  XVI 


Shapes. 


SANDWICHES 

SAimWICHES  Aim  GANAPf S 

Sandwiches  are  usually  the  chief  reliance  for  cold 
lunches,  and  are  always  acceptable  if  well  made  and 
attractively  served.  Where  they  are  to  be  kept  some 
time,  as  in  traveling,  they  should  be  wrapped  in  oiled 
or  paraffin  paper,  for  this  mil  keep  them  perfectly 
fresh. 

Sandwiches  may  be  made  of  white,  Graham,  or 
brown  bread,  or  of  fresh  rolls,  and  may  be  filled  with 
any  kind  of  meat,  with  fish,  with  salads,  with  eggs, 
with  jams,  or  with  chopped  nuts. 

They  may  be  cut  into  any  shapes,  the  square  and 
triangular  ones  being  the  usual  forms,  but  a  pleasant 
variety  may  be  given  by  stamping  them  with  a  biscuit- 
cutter  into  circles,  or  by  rolling  them,  and  these  forms 
are  recommended  for  sandwiches  made  of  jams  or 
jellies,  as  it  gives  them  a  more  distinctive  character. 

The  meat  used  in  sandwiches  should  be  chopped  to 
a  fine  mince,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  mustard, 
if  desired,  and  moistened  with  a  little  water,  stock, 
cream  or  milk,  or  with  a  salad  dressing,  using  enough 
to  make  the  mince  spread  well.  Fish  can  be  pounded 
to  a  paste,  then  seasoned.  Potted  meats  can  also  be 
used.  Slices  of  anything  that  has  a  fibrous  texture 
make  the  sandwich  difficult  to  eat,  and  as  knives  and 
forks  are  not  usually  at  hand  when  sandwiches  are 

Note.— Sandwiches  of  any  kln4  wUoh  are  left  oyer  are  good  toasted,  and  can  be 
B«rved  at  luncheon.—  M.  E. 

364 


How  to 

prepare 

the  meat. 


SANDWICHES 


365 


served,  it  is  desirable  to  make  the  primitive  way  of 
eating  as  little  objectionable  as  possible. 

The  butter  for  sandwiches  should  be  of  the  best, 
and  should  be  soft  enough  to  spread  easily  without 
tearing  the  bread.  The  butter  may  sometimes  be 
worked  into  the  meat  paste.  "What  are  called  "  sand- 
wich butters  "  are  frequently  used.  They  are  made 
by  rubbing  the  butter  to  a  cream,  combined  with  an- 
chovy paste,  with  mustard,  with  chopped  parsley  and 
tarragon,  with  pate  de  foie  gras,  etc. 

These  butters  are  used  to  spread  the  bread  for 
meat  sandwiches,  using  with  the  butter  any  flavoring 
that  wiU  go  well  with  the  meat. 

When  roUs  are  used  for  sandwiches,  they  should  be 
very  fresh,  should  be  smaU,  and  have  a  tender  crust. 
The  finger  rolls  are  good  for  the  purpose,  also  Parker 
House  rolls,  when  made  in  suitable  shape.  Graham 
bread  makes  excellent  sandwiches. 

Bread  for  sandwiches  should  be  of  fine  grain  and  a 
day  old.  A  five-cent  loaf  cuts  to  good  advantage.  The 
crust  should  be  cut  off,  and  the  loaf  trimmed  to  good 
shape  before  the  slices  are  cut.  The  crusts  and  trim- 
mings can  be  dried  for  crumbs,  so  they  are  not  wasted, 
and  no  butter  is  lost  in  spreading  bread  which  wUl 
afterward  be  trimmed  off.  When  the  bread  is  ready, 
the  butter  should  be  spread  on  the  loaf,  and  then  a 
slice  cut  off  evenly  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  The 
next  slice  will  have  to  be  cut  off  before  being  spread, 
in  order  to  have  it  fit  exactly  the  preceding  piece. 
After  the  first  slice  is  covered  with  the  filling,  lay  the 
second  slice  on  it.  In  many  cases  the  second  slice  of 
bread  does  not  need  spreading  with  butter.  Cut  the 
sandwich  to  the  desired  shape.  One  cut  across  the  loaf 
will  make  two  square,  or  four  triangular,  sandwiches. 

Poultry,  game,  ham,  beef,  and  tongue  can  be  pre- 
pared as  directed  above,  or  they  may  be  mixed  with  a 


Batter. 


Bolls. 


How  to 

prepare 

the  bread. 


366  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

French  or  a  Mayonnaise  dressing.    Chicken  pounded 
Meat  sand-  ^  ^  paste,  then  well  mixed  with  a  paste  made  of  the 
wiohe*.     yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  mashed,  a  little  milk  or 
cream,  and  a  little  butter,  then  seasoned  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  a  few  drops  of  onion-juice,  makes  a  delicious 
chicken  sandwich. 
Fish  sand-       Anchovies,  sardines,  or  any  fresh  boiled  fish  may 
wiohea.     be  used  for  sandwiches.    It  is  better  pounded  to  a 
paste.    Moisten  sardines  with  a  little  lemon-juice. 

Fresh  fish  should  be  well  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  moistened  with  a  white  or  any  other 
sauce,  or  with  Mayonnaise.  A  little  chopped  pickle 
may  be  added.  Shad  roe,  mashed  with  a  fork  to  sepa- 
rate the  eggs,  and  seasoned  in  the  same  way,  makes 
excellent  sandwiches. 

EGG  SANDWICHES 

No.  1.  Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  into  slices ;  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper  plentifully,  and  spread  the  bread  with  but- 
ter mixed  with  chopped  parsley. 

No.  2.  Lay  the  sliced  eggs  between  crisp  lettuce  leaves,  and 
spread  the  bread  with  butter,  then  with  Mayonnaise. 

No.  3.  Chop  the  hard-boiled  eggs  fine.  Mix  with  Mayonnaise 
and  spread  on  the  buttered  bread,  or  mix  them  with 
well-seasoned  white  sauce. 

SALAD  SANDWICHES 

No.  1.  Lay  a  crisp  lettuce  leaf  sprinkled  with  salt  between 
buttered  thin  slices  of  bread ;  or  spread  the  bread  with 
Mayonnaise,  then  with  lettuce  or  with  water-cress. 

No.  2.  Chop  chicken  and  celery  together  fine ;  mix  it  with 
French  or  with  Mayonnaise  dressing. 

No.  3.  Chop  lobster  meat ;  mix  it  with  any  dressing ;  cut  let- 
tuce into  ribbons ;  cover  the  bread  with  the  lettuce ; 
then  a  layer  of  lobster ;  then  with  lettuce  again. 

No.  4.  Mix  chopped  olives  with  Mayonnaise ;  serve  with 
afternoon  tea.- 


SANDWICHES  367 

SPANISH  SANDWICHES 

Spread  buttered  Graham  bread  witb  mustard ;  then  with  a 
layer  of  cottage  cheese  j  and  then  with  a  layer  of  chopped 
olives  mixed  with  Mayonnaise. 

CHEESE  SANDWICHES 

No.  1.  Cut  American  cheese  in  slices  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
thick,  or  about  the  same  thickness  as  the  bread. 
Sprinkle  it  with  salt,  and  have  the  bread  well  buttered. 

No.  2.  Cut  Gruy^re  cheese  in  thin  slices.  Lay  it  on  the 
bread,  sprinkle  it  with  salt  and  pepper;  then  add 
French  mustard. 

No.  3.  Grate  any  cheese.  Rub  it  to  a  paste  with  butter,  and 
spread  the  bread ;  dust  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cut 
into  strips  and  serve  with  salad. 

No.  4.  Mock  Crab.  Rub  to  a  smooth  paste  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  a  salt- 
spoonful  each  of  salt,  paprica,  and  dry  mustard,  a  lit- 
'^  tie  anchovy  paste,  and  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  vinegar.  Spread 

between  thin  slices  of  dry  toast. 

RAW  BEEF  SANDWICHES 

Scrape  the  raw  beef;  spread  it  between  thin  slices  of  plain 
bread.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  the  sandwiches 
on  a  toaster,  and  hold  them  over  the  coals  until  well  heated. 
Serve  them  hot. 

SWEET  SANDWICHES 

No.  1.  For  ^Esthetic  Sandwiches,  see  chapter  "Five  O'clock 
Tea,"  page  33. 

No.  2.  Spread  thin  slices  of  bread  with  any  jam,  or  with  fruit 
jelly,  or  with  any  preserved  fruit,  or  with  chopped 
canned  fruit.  Cut  them  into  circles,  or  roll  them  as 
directed  above. 

No.  3.  Spread  very  thin  buttered  slices  of  Boston  brown 
bread  with  chopped  walnuts,  or  with  chopped  almonds, 
or  with  both  mixed,  or  with  salted  nuts  chopped. 


368  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

CAKAFES 

Canapes  are  slices  of  bread  toasted  or  fried  in  hot  fat,  or 
dipped  iu  butter,  and  browned  in  the  oven.  The  slices  are 
then  covered  with  some  seasoned  mixture.  They  are  served 
hot,  and  make  a  good  first  course  for  luncheon.  The  bread  is 
cut  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  then  into  circles  two  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter,  or  into  strips  four  inches  long  and  two 
inches  wide.  They  are  sometimes  used  cold,  and  are  arranged 
fancifully  with  different-colored  meats,  pickles,  eggs,  etc. 

CHEESE  CANAPES 

Cut  bread  into  slices  one  quarter  inch  thick,  four  inches  long 
and  two  inches  wide.  Spread  it  with  butter,  and  sprinkle  it 
with  salt  and  cayenne  or  paprica.  Cover  the  top  with  grated 
American  cheese,  or  with  gi*ated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  bake  in 
the  oven  until  the  cheese  is  softened.  Serve  at  once,  before 
the  cheese  hardens. 

HAM  GAITAFES 

Cut  bread  into  slices  a  quarter  inch  thick,  then  with  a  small 
biscuit-cutter  into  circles ;  fry  them  in  hot  fat,  or  saute  them  in 
butter.  Pound  some  chopped  ham  to  a  paste ;  moisten  it  with 
cream  or  milk.  Spread  it  on  the  fried  bread ;  dust  with  cayenne, 
sprinkle  the  top  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  place  in  a 
hot  oven  until  a  little  browned. 

ANCHOVY  CANAPf  S 

Spread  strips  of  fried  bread  with  anchovy  paste.  An'ange  in 
lines,  on  top,  alternate  rows  of  the  white  and  yolks  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs  chopped  fine. 

SARDDTE  CANAPES 

Spread  circles  of  fried  bread  with  a  layer  of  sardines  pounded 
to  a  paste.  Arrange  on  top,  in  circles  to  resemble  a  rosette, 
lines  of  chopped  hard-boiled  egg  and  chopped  pickle. 


CHEESE  DISHES  369 

CANAPE  LORENZO 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.         1  tablespoonful  of  milk. 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  2J  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 

1  slice  of  onion.  Parmesan  cheese. 

1  cupful  of  stock.  2J  tablespoonfuls  of  Swiss 

1  cupful  of  crab  meat.  cheese. 

Salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne. 

Put  in  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  fry  in  it 
one  slice  of  onion  chopped  fine,  but  do  not  brown ;  then  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  cook,  but  do  not  brown ;  add 
the  stock  slowly,  and  when  smooth  add  the  cooked  crab  meat. 
Season  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne,  and  let  simmer 
for  six  or  eight  minutes. 

Put  into  another  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter ;  when 
melted,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  cook,  but  not  brown ; 
then  add  the  milk  and  stir  in  the  cheese,  and  let  cook  just 
long  enough  to  soften  the  cheese.  Remove  from  the  fire  and 
let  cool;  then  form  the  cheese  mixture  into  six  balls.  Have 
ready  six  slices  or  circles  of  buttered  toast,  or  bread  fried  in 
butter,  and  cover  them  with  a  layer  of  the  crab  mixture,  and  in 
the  center  of  each  piece  place  a  ball  of  the  cheese.  Place  in  a 
hot  oven  for  five  minutes. 

This  is  a  good  supper  dish,  and  may  be  made  of  lobster,  fish, 
or  chicken. 

Serve  with  water-cress. 


CHEESE  AND   CHEESE   DISHES 

Among  the  best  cheeses  are  Stilton,  Cheshire,  Ca- 
membert,  Gorgonzola,  Rocquefort,  Edam,  Gruy^re, 
and  Parmesan.  The  Parmesan  is  a  high-flavored, 
hard  Italian  cheese,  and  is  mostly  used  grated  for 
cooking.  Our  American  dairy  cheeses  are  much  es-  Varieties, 
teemed,  and  are  largely  exported  to  foreign  markets ; 
but  as  they  have  no  distinctive  names,  it  is  difficult 

24 


370  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

to  find  a  second  time  any  one  that  is  particularly 
liked.  The  Pineapple  cheese  is  the  only  one  that 
differs  radically  from  the  other  so-called  American 
cheeses.  The  foreign  cheeses  are,  nearly  all  of  them, 
very  successfully  imitated  here.  Cheese  is  served  with 
crackers,  wafer  biscuits,  or  with  celery  after  the  des- 
sert, or  with  salad  before  the  hot  deSsert.  Any  of  the 
cheese  dishes,  such  as  soufile,  ramekins,  omelets,  etc., 
are  served  before  the  dessert.  Cheese  straws  are 
used  with  salad.  Cheeses  smaU  enough  to  be  passed 
whole,  like  Edam,  Pineapple,  etc.,  have  the  top  cut 
off,  plain  or  in  notches,  and  are  wrapped  in  a  neatly 
plaited  napkin.  The  top  is  replaced  after  the  service, 
so  as  to  keep  the  cheese  moist.  A  Stilton  or  Chester 
cheese  is  cut  in  two,  and  one  half,  wrapped  in  a 
napkin,  served  at  a  time.  Rocquefort  and  Gorgon- 
zola  are  served  in  the  large  slice  cut  from  the  cheese 
Serving,  and  laid  on  a  folded  napkin.  American  dairy  cheese 
is  cut  into  smaU  uniform  pieces.  The  soft  cheeses. 
Brie,  Neuch&tel,  etc.,  are  divested  of  the  tinfoil  and 
scraped  before  being  passed.  They  are  placed  on  a 
lace  paper.  Fresh  butter,  wafer  biscuits,  and  celery 
are  passed  with  cheese. 

CHEESE  SOUFFL^ 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour.    Dash  of  cayenne. 
^  cupful  of  milk.  3  eggs. 

1  cupful  of  grated  cheese. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  the  butter ;  when  it  is  melted  stir  in  the 
flour  and  let  it  cook  a  minute  (but  not  color),  stirring  all  the 
time;  add  one  half  cupful  of  milk  slowly  and  stir  till  smooth, 
then  add  salt  and  cayenne.  Remove  from  the  fire  and  add, 
stirring  constantly,  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  the  cup- 
ful of  grated  American  or  Parmesan  cheese.    Replace  it  on  the 


CHEESE  DISHES  371 

fire,  and  stir  until  the  cheese  is  melted  and  the  paste  smooth 
and  consistent  (do  not  cook  too  long,  or  the  butter  will  separate). 
Pour  the  mixture  on  a  buttered  dish  and  set  away  to  cool. 
When  ready  to  use,  stir  into  it  lightly  the  well-beaten  whites  of 
the  three  eggs ;  turn  it  into  a  pudding-dish  and  bake  in  a  hot 
oven  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  Do  not  open  the  oven  door 
for  ten  minutes ;  do  not  slam  the  oven  door ;  do  not  move  the 
souffle  until  after  fifteen  minutes ;  serve  it  at  once  when  done. 
Like  any  souf9.e,  it  must  go  directly  from  the  oven  to  the  table, 
or  it  will  f  aU. 

CRACKERS  AND   CHEESE 

Split  in  two  some  Bent's  water  biscuits ;  moisten  them  with 
hot  water  and  pour  over  each  piece  a  little  melted  butter  and 
French  mustard;  then  spread  with  a  thick  layer  of  grated 
cheese ;  sprinkle  with  paprica  or  cayenne.  Place  them  in  a  hot 
oven  until  the  cheese  is  soft  and  creamy. 

CHEESE   CANAPES 

Cut  bread  into  slices  one  half  inch  thick ;  stamp  them  with  a 
biscuit  cutter  into  circles ;  then,  moving  the  cutter  to  one  side, 
cut  them  into  crescent  form ;  or,  if  preferred,  cut  the  bread  into 
strips  three  inches  long  and  one  and  one  half  inches  wide ;  saut§ 
them  in  a  little  butter  on  both  sides  to  an  amber  color.  Cover 
them  with  a  thick  layer  of  grated  cheese ;  sprinkle  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  dash  of  cayenne.  Fifteen  minutes  before  the  time 
to  serve,  place  them  in  the  oven  to  soften  the  cheese.  Serve  at 
once  very  hot ;  or,  cut  some  toasted  bread  into  small  triangles ; 
spread  with  a  little  French  mustard ;  dip  in  melted  butter ;  then 
roll  in  grated  cheese ;  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper,  and  dash  of 
cayenne,  and  place  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  soften 
the  cheese.    Serve  at  once  on  a  hot  dish. 

WELSH  RABBIT 

1  pound  of  cheese.  ^  teaspoonf  ul  of  dry  mustard. 

J  cupful  of  ale  or  beer.         ^  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Dash  of  cayenne.  Slices  of  toast. 


372  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Grate  or  cut  into  small  pieces  fresh  American  cheese.  Place 
it  in  a  saucepan  or  chafing-dish  with  three  quarters  of  the  ale. 
Stir  until  it  is  entirely  melted ;  then  season  with  the  mustard, 
salt,  and  pepper,  and  pour  it  over  the  slices  of  hot  toast,  cut  in 
triangles  or  circles.  Everything  must  be  very  hot,  and  it  must 
be  served  at  once,  as  the  cheese  quickly  hardens.  Some  use  a 
scant  teaspoonful  of  butter  (more  will  not  unite),  a  few  drops 
of  onion- juice,  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  added  just 
before  serving.  The  egg  makes  it  a  little  richer  and  prevents 
the  cheese  hardening  so  quickly.  Milk  may  be  used  instead  of 
ale  to  melt  the  cheese,  in  which  case  the  egg  should  also  be 
used.  K  any  of  the  cheese  fondu  is  left,  it  can  be  heated  again 
with  the  rest  of  the  ale  for  the  second  helping. 

GOLDEN  BUCK 

Make  "Welsh  rarebits  as  directed  above,  and  place  on  each  one 
a  poached  egg  (see  page  263). 

CHEESE  STRAWS 

Mix  with  one  cupful  of  flour  one  half  cupful  of  grated  Par- 
mesan cheese,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  the  yolk  of  one  egg;  then  add  enough  water  to  make  a 
paste  sufficiently  consistent  to  roll.  Place  it  on  a  board  and 
roll  to  one  quarter  inch  thickness.  Cut  it  into  narrow  strips 
and  roll  so  each  piece  will  be  the  size  and  length  of  a  lead  pen- 
cil. Place  them  in  a  baking-tin  and  press  each  end  on  the  pan 
so  they  will  not  contract.  Bake  to  a  light  brown  in  a  moder- 
ate oven.  Serve  with  salad.  These  straws  will  keep  for  several 
days,  and  should  be  heated  just  before  serving. 

CHEESE  STRAWS  No.  2 

Take  bits  of  puff  paste ;  roll  them  to  one  half  inch  thick- 
ness ;  cut  them  into  strips  one  inch  wide  and  three  inches  long ; 
sprinkle  them  with  grated  cheese  and  bake ;  or,  the  pastry  may 
be  rolled  to  one  quarter  inch  thickness ;  then  spread  with  cheese, 


CHEESE  DISHES  373 

doubled  over,  and  tlien  cut  into  strips,  leaving  the  cheese  be- 
tween two  layers  of  paste. 

CHEESE  FATTIES 

Make  some  small  round  croustades  as  directed  (page  82). 
Dip  them  in  butter  and  toast  them  in  the  oven  to  a  delicate 
color.  FiU  the  centers  with  a  mixture  of  two  ounces  of  grated 
cheese,  one  half  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of 
milk,  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Place  the  croustades  again  in 
the  oven  to  melt  the  cheese.    Serve  very  hot. 

COTTAOE  CHEESE 

Place  a  panful  of  mUk  which  has  soured  enough  to  become 
thick,  or  clabbered,  over  a  pan  of  hot  water.  Let  it  heat  slowly 
untn  the  whey  has  separated  from  the  curd ;  do  not  let  it  boil, 
or  the  curd  will  become  tough ;  then  strain  it  through  a  cloth 
and  press  out  all  the  whey ;  stir  into  the  curd  enough  butter, 
cream,  and  salt  to  make  it  a  little  moist  and  of  good  flavor. 
Work  it  well  with  a  spoon  until  it  becomes  fine  grained  and 
consistent,  then  mold  it  into  balls  of  any  size  desired. 

FONDUE 

.    See  page  335. 


Chapteb  xvn 


SALADS 


Drying 
the  salad. 


Catting 
the  meat 


Harinat- 
ing. 


Nearly  all  the  meats,  vegetables,  and  fruits  may- 
be served  as  salads.  The  essential  thing  is  to  have 
the  salad  fresh  and  cold;  and  if  green,  to  have  the 
leaves  crisp  and  dry.  If  any  water  is  left  on  leaves, 
the  dressing  will  not  adhere  to  them,  but  will  run  to  the 
bottom  of  the  dish,  and  both  the  salad  and  the  dress- 
ing will  be  poor.  All  greens  should  be  carefully 
washed  in  cold  water  to  free  them  from  dust  and 
insects,  and  to  make  them  crisp.  After  they  have 
stood  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  in  cold  or  ice  water, 
free  them  from  moisture  by  swinging  them  in  a  wire 
basket,  or  dry,  without  bruising,  each  leaf  carefully 
with  a  napkin.  The  dressing  is  added  only  at  the 
moment  of  serving,  as  the  salad  wilts  if  allowed 
to  stand  after  the  dressing  is  added.  The  green 
salads  are  the  most  simple  of  any,  and  are  especially 
worthy  the  little  care  required  to  make  them  perfect. 

Meat  of  any  kind  used  for  salads  should  be  cut 
into  dice,  but  not  smaller  than  one  half  inch,  or  it 
will  seem  like  hash.  It  should  be  marinated  before 
being  mixed  with  the  other  parts  of  the  salad.  Meat 
mixtures  are  usually  piled  in  cone-shape  on  a  dish,  the 
Mayonnaise  then  spread  over  it,  and  garnished  with 
lettuce,  capers,  hard-boiled  eggs,  gherkins,  etc. 

To  Marinate. — Take  one  part  of  oil  and  three  of 
vinegar,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste;  stir  them  into 
the  meat,  and  let  it  stand  a  couple  of  hours;  drain  off 
any  of  the  marinade  which  has  not  been  absorbed, 

374 


Fish 
salads. 


SALADS  375 

before  combining  the  meat  with  the  other  parts  of 
the  salad.  Use  only  enough  marinade  to  season  the 
meat, 

French  dressing  is  used  with  gi-een  vegetable  sal- 
ads, and  either  Mayonnaise  or  French  dressing  with 
potato  and  tomato  salads. 

Lettuce,  water-cress,  fetticus,  sorrel,  or  other  leaf 
salads  are  better  with  French  dressing.  A  boiled  fish 
can  be  served  whole  as  a  salad  for  suppers  or  lunch- 
eons, or  in  hot  weather  as  a  fish  course  for  dinner.  It 
may  be  covered,  all  but  the  head  and  tail,  with  a  thick 
coating  of  green  or  red  jelly  Mayonnaise  (see  page 
290),  and  elaborately  decorated  with  capers,  olives, 
gherkins,  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  lettuce.  Salmon,  blue 
fish,  bass,  or  any  firm  fish,  serves  this  purpose.  Fish 
may  also  be  cut  into  cutlets  of  equal  size  and  shape, 
and  covered  with  jelly  Mayonnaise  garnished  in  the 
same  way. 

Nasturtium  blossoms  make  a  good  garnish,  and 
also  add  a  good  flavor  to  green  salads. 

MAYONNAISE 

The  receipts  for  Mayonnaise  are  given  on  pages  288-290 
White  Mayonnaise,  instead  of  that  having  the  color  of  the  eggs, 
is  the  fancy  of  to-day.  The  yolks  will  whiten  by  being  stirred 
before  the  oil  is  added,  and  lemon-juice,  used  instead  of  vinegar, 
also  serves  to  whiten  the  dressing;  so  it  is  not  always  necessary 
to  add  whipped  cream,  although  the  cream  gives  a  very  deli- 
cate and  delicious  Mayonnaise.  The  jelly  Mayonnaise  is  used 
for  molded  salads,  and  will  be  found  very  good,  as  well  as  use- 
ful, for  the  class  of  salads  served  at  suppers,  etc. 

FRENCH  DRESSINQ 

This  dressing  is  the  most  simple,  and  the  best  one  to  use 
with  green  salads  for  dinner.     The  proportions  are  one  table- 


376  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

spoonful  of  vinegar  to  three  of  oil,  one  half  teaspoonf ul  of  salt, 
and  one  quarter  teaspoonf  ul  of  pepper.  Mix  the  salt  and 
pepper  with  the  oil;  then  stir  in  slowly  the  vinegar,  and  it  will 
become  white  and  a  little  thickened,  like  an  emulsion.  Some 
like  a  dash  of  paprica  or  red  pepper.  When  intended  for  lettuce 
salad  it  is  much  improved  by  using  a  little  tarragon  vinegar 
with  the  wine  vinegar.  More  oil  may  be  used  if  preferred,  but 
the  mixture  should  be  so  blended  as  to  taste  of  neither  the  oil 
nor  the  vinegar. 

LETTUCE  SALAD 

Use  only  the  tender  leaves.  Let  them  stand  half  an  hour 
in  cold  water  to  become  crisp.  Rub  the  inside  of  the  salad 
bowl  lightly  with  an  onion.  Wipe  the  lettuce  leaves  perfectly 
dry  without  bruising  them,  and  arrange  them  in  the  bowl  in 
circles,  the  heart  leaves  in  the  center.  Sprinkle  over  them 
a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  tarragon,  parsle}',  and  chives,  chopped 
fine;  pour  over  the  French  dressing,  and  toss  them  lightly  to- 
gether. French  lettuce  salads  always  have  chopped  herbs  mixed 
with  them,  and  they  are  a  great  improvement  to  the  salad.  K 
all  of  them  are  not  at  hand,  any  one  of  them  may  be  used  alone. 
The  salad  should  be  put  together  only  just  before  being  served, 
or  its  crispness  will  be  lost.  Nasturtium  blossoms,  small  rad- 
ishes cut  into  flowers, '  or  a  few  white  chicory  leaves  may  be 
used  with  plain  lettuce  salad, 

WATER-CRESS  AND  APPLES 

Prepare  the  water-cress  the  same  as  lettuce,  letting  it  be- 
come crisp  in  cold  water,  then  drying  it  thoroughly.  Mix 
it  with  French  dressing.  A  few  thin  slices  of  sour  apple  with 
water-cress  makes  a  good  salad  to  serve  with  ducks. 

A  chopped  hard-boiled  egg  sprinkled  over  the  top  of  water- 
cress is  a  good  garnish,  and  improves  the  salad. 

CELERY  SALAD 

Wash  and  scrape  the  tender  stalks  of  celery,  cut  them  into 
one  quarter  inch  pieces,  or  into  straws  two  inches  long,  or  cut 


SALAD  OF    WATER-CRESS    GARNISHED  WITH  RADISHES  CUT  TO  RESEMBLE  ROSES. 


CUCUMBERS  CUT  IN  HALVES  LENGTHWISE  AND  THEN  SLICED  TO  SERVE  WITH  FISH. 


STRING-BEAN  SALAD. 


SALADS  377 

them  in  pieces  one  and  a  half  inches  long,  and  slice  them  in 
small  strips  nearly  to  the  end;  place  them  in  ice-water  for  a 
few  minutes  to  curl  them.  Mix  the  celery  with  either  French 
or  Mayonnaise  dressing,  and  garnish  with  lettuce  leaves  or 
celery  tops. 

CUCUMBER  AND  TOMATO  SALAD 

Slice  cucumbers  and  tomatoes  into  pieces  of  equal  thickness, 
and  lay  them  alternately  around  a  bunch  of  white  lettuce  leaves. 
Pass  separately  either  a  French  or  Mayonnaise  dressing,  or 
both. 

CUCUMBER  SALAD  TO  SERVE  WITH  FISH 

Peel  the  cucumbers,  and  place  them  in  cold  water  to  become 
crisp.  Do  not  use  salt  in  the  water,  as  is  sometimes  recom- 
mended, as  it  wilts  and  makes  them  indigestible.  Cut  the 
cucumbers  in  two  lengthwise,  and  lay  them,  with  the  flat  side 
down,  on  the  dish  on  which  they  are  to  be  served.  Slice  them 
without  destroying  their  shape,  and  pour  on  them  a  French 
dressing. 

STRING-BEAN  SALAD 

Cut  each  bean  in  four  strips  lengthwise ;  lay  them  evenly  to- 
gether and  boil  in  salted  water  until  tender.  Remove  them 
carefully  and  drain.  When  they  are  cold  and  ready  to  serve, 
pile  them  on  a  flat  dish,  trim  the  ends  even,  and  pour  over 
them  slowly  a  French  dressing.  Garnish  with  parsley,  white 
chicory  leaves  or  nasturtium  leaves. 

BEAN  SALADS 

Boiled  navy  beans,  flageolets,  or  Lima  beans  may  be  mixed 
with  French  or  Mayonnaise  dressing,  and  garnished  with  hard- 
boiled  eggs  and  parsley. 

CAULIFLOWER  SALAD 

Break  the  vegetable  into  flowerets ;  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  a  little  vinegar  and  oil.  Pile  them  in  a  pyramid  on  a  dish, 
and  pour  over  them  a  white  Mayonnaise.    Arrange  around  the 


378  THE  OENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

base  a  border  of  carrots  or  beets,  cut  into  dice  or  fancy  shapes, 
to  give  a  line  of  color.  Place  a  floweret  of  cauliflower  on  the 
top  of  the  pyramid. 

MACEDOIHE  SALAD 

This  salad  is  composed  of  a  mixture  of  vegetables.  The  vege- 
tables are  boiled  separately ;  the  large  ones  are  then  cut  into 
dice  of  equal  size.  The  salad  is  more  attractive  when  the  vege- 
tables are  cut  with  fancy  cutters  or  with  a  small  potato-scoop. 
Peas,  flageolets,  string  beans,  flowerets  of  cauliflower,  beets, 
celery  roots,  asparagus  points,  carrots,  and  turnips  —  all,  or  as 
many  as  convenient,  may  be  used.  Mix  them  lightly  with 
French  dressing  or  with  Mayonnaise.  If  the  latter,  marinate 
them  first.  Be  careful  not  to  break  the  vegetables  when  mix- 
ing them.  Arrange  lettuce  leaves  like  a  cup,  and  place  the 
macedoine  in  the  center. 

POTATO  SALAD 

Boil  the  potatoes  with  the  skins  on ;  when  cold  remove  the 
skins  and  cut  them  into  slices  three  eighths  inch  thick,  or  into 
dice  three  quarters  inch  thick,  or  cut  the  potatoes  into  balls  with  a 
scoop;  sprinkle  them  with  a  little  grated  onion  and  parsley, 
chopped  very  fine.  Turn  over  thera  a  French  dressing.  They  wUl 
absorb  a  great  deal.  Toss  them  lightly  together,  but  do  not  break 
the  potatoes,  which  are  very  tender.  A  Mayonnaise  dressing  is 
also  very  good  with  marinated  potatoes.  A  mixture  of  beets 
and  potatoes  with  Mayonnaise  is  also  used.  Garnish  with  let- 
tuce, chopped  yolk  of  hard-boiled  egg  and  capers.  In  boiling 
potatoes  for  salad,  do  not  steam  them  after  they  are  boiled,  as 
they  should  not  be  mealy.  New  or  German  potatoes  are  best 
for  salad. 

COLD  SLAW 

Shred  a  firm  cabbage  very  fine.  Mix  it  with  a  French  dressing, 
using  an  extra  quantity  of  salt,  or  put  into  a  bowl  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  one  half  cupful  of  vinegar  (if  it  is  very  strong  di- 


SALADS  379 

lute  it  with  water),  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  half  tea- 
spoonful  each  of  mustard  and  pepper,  and  one  teaspoonful  each 
of  sugar  and  salt.  Beat  them  together,  place  the  bowl  in  a  pan 
of  boiling  water,  and  stir  until  it  becomes  a  little  thickened. 
Pour  this  while  hot  over  the  cabbage,  and  set  it  away  to  cool. 

HOT  SLAW 

Place  shredded  cabbage  in  a  saucepan  with  enough  salted 
boiling  water  to  cover  it.  Boil  it  until  tender,  but  not  so  long 
as  to  lose  shape ;  turn  it  onto  a  sieve  and  drain  it  well  in  a 
warm  place.  Pour  over  the  drained  cabbage  a  hot  Bearnaise 
sauce. 

Cabbage  salads  are  good  to  serve  with  fried  oysters,  meat 
fritters,  or  chops. 

The  boiled  cabbage,  cold,  may  be  used  with  French  dressing. 

TOMATO  SALADS 

To  remove  the  skins  from  tomatoes,  place  them  in  a  wire- 
basket,  and  plunge  them  into  boiling  water  for  a  minute.  This 
is  better  than  letting  them  soak  in  the  water,  which  softens 
them  if  left  too  long. 

No.   1. 

Select  tomatoes  of  the  same  size  and  shape ;  peel,  and  place 
them  on  ice  until  ready  to  use ;  then  cut  each  one  in  two  and 
place  on  each  piece  a  teaspoonful  of  Mayonnaise.  Dress  them 
on  a  bed  of  lettuce  leaves;  or,  slice  the  tomatoes  without  break- 
ing their  form,  place  each  one  on  a  leaf  of  lettuce,  cover  the 
tomato  with  Mayonnaise,  and  sprinkle  over  a  little  parsley 
chopped  fine;  or  scoop  out  a  little  of  ^the  center  from  the  stem 
end  and  fill  it  with  dressing. 

An  attractive  salad  is  made  of  the  small  yellow  tomatoes 
which  resemble  plums.  Remove  the  skin  carefully;  let  them 
get  thoroughly  cold;  then  pile  them  on  a  dish  the  same  as 
fruit,  garnish  with  leaves  of  lettuce,  and  pour  over  them  a 
French  dressing. 


380  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

No.  2.    STUFFED  TOMATOES 

Select  round  "tomatoes  of  equal  size ;  peel  and  scoop  from  the 
stem  end  a  part  of  the  center.  Place  them  on  ice  until  ready  to 
serve  j  then  fill  them  with  celery  cut  fine  and  mixed  with  Mayon- 
naise. Let  it  rise  above  the  top  of  the  tomato.  Put  a  little  May- 
onnaise on  small  lettuce  leaves,  and  place  a  stuffed  tomato  on 
the  dressing  in  the  center  of  each  leaf.  Arrange  them  in  a  cir- 
cle on  a  flat  dish.  Tomatoes  may  be  stuffed  in  the  same  way 
with  chopped  veal,  celery  and  veal  or  chicken,  celery  and  sweet- 
breads, or  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs  and  shredded  lettuce. 

No.  3.    TOMATOES   AND  EGGS 

Prepare  the  tomatoes  as  above ;  partly  fill  them  with  Mayon- 
naise, and  press  into  each  one  the  half  of  a  hard-boiled  egg, 
letting  the  rounded  top  rise  a  little  above  the  tomato.  Serve 
on  lettuce  as  above. 

No.  4.    MOLDED  TOMATOES 

Select  small  round  tomatoes.  Stuff  them  in  any  way  directed 
above,  but  do  not  let  the  filling  project  beyond  the  opening. 
Place  individual  molds  on  ice.  Small  cups  will  do ;  pour  in  one 
eighth  of  an  inch  of  clear  aspic  or  chicken  aspic  (see  page  323) ; 
when  it  has  set,  place  in  each  one  a  tomato,  the  whole  side  down ; 
add  enough  jelly  to  fix  the  tomato  without  floating  it.  When 
that  has  set,  add  enough  more  to  entirely  cover  it  (see  Fancy 
Molding,  page  323).  Turn  each  molded  tomato  onto  the  plate  on 
which  it  is  to  be  served,  and  arrange  around  it  a  wreath  of 
shredded  lettuce.    Pass  Mayonnaise  dressing  separately. 

No.  5.    TOMATO  JELLY 

J  can  or  2  cupfuls  of  tomatoes.     ^  teaspoonful  of  thyme. 
3  cloves.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  bay-leaf.  1  teaspoonful  of  sugar. 

1  slice  of  onion.  J  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

J  box  or  ^  ounce  of  Cooper's  gelatine,  soaked  in  |  cupful  of 
water. 


TOMATOES  8TCFFED  WITH  CELERY  AND  MAYONNAISE' STANDING  ON  LETTUCE 

LEAVES, 


SALAD  OF  SLICED  HARD-BOILED  EGGS  ARRANGED  ON  LETT0CE  LEAVES,  THE 
STALK  ENDS  OF  THE  LEAVES  MEETING  IN  THE  CENTER  OF  THE  DISH. 


SALAD  OF  STUFFED  EGGS  GARNISHED  WITH  LETTUCE  CUT  INTO  KllilJO\« 
(SEE  FAGE  S81.) 


SALADS  381 

Boil  together  the  tomatoes,  spices,  and  onion  until  the  tomato 
is  soft ;  then  add  the  soaked  gelatine,  and  stir  until  the  gelatine 
is  dissolved  j  then  strain  and  pour  it  into  a  border  or  ring- 
shaped  mold  to  set.  Serve  with  the  center  of  the  jeUy-ring  filled 
with  celery  cut  into  pieces,  into  straws,  or  curled,  and  mixed 
with  Mayonnaise.  Form  outside  the  ring  a  wreath  of  shredded 
lettuce. 

This  jelly  may  also  be  molded  in  a  solid  piece  and  surrounded 
by  the  celery.     (See  illustration  opposite  page  384.) 

CELERY  AND  WALNUT   SALAD 

Mix  with  the  celery,  cut  into  small  pieces,  one  third  the  quan- 
tity of  English  walnut  meats  broken  in  two,  and  enough  May- 
onnaise to  well  moisten  it.     Garnish  with  lettuce. 

SWEETBREADS  WITH  CELERY 

Cut  cold  cooked  sweetbreads  into  dice  and  mix  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  celery.  Cover  with  Mayonnaise  and  garnish  with 
lettuce. 

EGG  SALAD  NOo  1 

Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  (see  page  262)  into  thick  slices  or  into 
quarters.  Use  a  sharp  knife  so  the  cuts  will  be  clean.  Arrange 
each  portion  on  a  leaf  of  lettuce  partly  covered  with  Mayon- 
naise, and  arrange  the  lettuce  in  a  circle  on  a  flat  dish,  the  stem 
of  the  leaf  toward  the  center  of  the  dish.  Place  a  bunch  of 
nasturtium  flowers  or  a  bunch  of  white  chicory  leaves  in  the 
middle.     (See  illustration.) 

No.  2 

Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  in  two,  making  the  cut  one  third  from 
the  pointed  end.  Remove  the  yolks  without  breaking  the  whites  j 
mash  them  and  mix  with  chicken,  chopped  fine,  and  enough 
Mayonnaise  to  bind  them.  Fill  the  large  half  of  the  egg  with 
the  mixture,  rounding  it  on  top  like  a  whole  yolk.  Invert  the 
small  pieces  of  white.  Cut  the  pointed  ends  of  both  pieces  flat, 
and  stick  them  together  with  raw  white  of  egg.    Place  the  vase- 


382  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

shaped  eggs  on  a  flat  dish,  and  fill  the  spaces  with  shredded 
lettuce.  Pass  Mayonnaise,  as  that  put  in  the  yolks  wUl  not  he 
sufficient.    (See  illustration.) 

ORANGE  SALAD 

Use  for  this  salad  sour  oranges ;  if  these  cannot  be  obtained, 
strain  over  sweet  oranges  after  they  are  sliced  a  little  lemon- 
juice.  Cut  the  oranges  in  thick  slices,  remove  the  seeds  care- 
fully, arrange  them  in  rows,  and  turn  over  them  a  dressing 
made  of  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice  to  three  of  oil,  with 
salt,  and  cayenne,  or  paprica  to  taste.     Serve  with  game. 

Grape  fruit  may  be  used  the  same  way,  and  walnut  meats 
used  with  either. 

CHICKEN  SALAD 

Cnt  cold  cooked  chicken  into  dice  one  half  inch  square,  or 
into  pieces  of  any  shape,  but  not  too  smaU.  Use  only  the  white 
meat,  if  very  particular  as  to  appearance,  but  the  dark  meat  is 
also  good.  Veal  is  sometimes  substituted  for  chicken.  Wash 
and  scrape  the  tender  stalks  of  celery.  Cut  them  into  smaU 
pieces,  and  dry  them  well.  Use  two  thirds  as  much  celery  as 
chicken.  Marinate  the  chicken  as  directed  at  the  head  of  chap- 
ter. Keep  it  in  a  cold  place  until  ready  to  serve;  then  mix 
with  it  the  celery,  and  add  lightly  a  little  Mayonnaise.  Place 
the  mixture  in  a  bowl,  smooth  the  top,  leaving  it  high  in  the 
center;  cover  it  with  Mayonnaise.  Garnish  with  hard-boiled 
eggs,  the  whites  and  yolks  chopped  separately ;  also  with  sliced 
pickle,  stoned  olives,  capers,  lettuce-leaves,  celery-tops,  etc. 
Arrange  any  or  aU  of  these  in  as  fanciful  design  as  desired. 
Shredded  lettuce  may  be  used  instead  of  celery  if  more 
convenient. 

LOBSTER  SALAD 

Cut  the  boiled  lobster  into  one  inch  pieces  or  larger.  Mari- 
nate it,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place  until  ready  to  serve;  then  mix 
with  it  lightly  a  little  Mayonnaise.  Place  it  in  the  salad  bowl; 
smooth  the  top,  leaving  it  high  in  the  center.    Mask  it  with  a 


SALADS  383 

thick  covering  of  Mayonnaise.  Sprinkle  over  it  the  powdered 
coral  of  the  lobster.  Place  on  top  the  heart  of  a  head  of  let- 
tuce, and  around  the  salad  a  thick  border  of  crisp  lettuce-leaves, 
carefully  selected. 

Shad  roe,  canned  salmon,  or  any  j&rm  white  fish  mixed  with 
Mayonnaise,  and  garnished  with  lettuce,  may  he  served  as  a 
salad. 

OYSTEB  SALAD 

Scald  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  until  plump  and  frilled. 
Drain,  and  let  them  get  very  cold  and  dry.  If  large  oysters,  cut 
each  one  with  a  silver  knife  into  four  pieces.  Just  before  serv- 
ing mix  them  with  Mayonnaise  or  Tartare  sauce,  and  serve 
each  portion  on  a  leaf  of  lettuce.  Celery  may  be  mixed  with 
oysters,  and  served  the  same  way. 

BOUILLI  SALAD 

Cut  beef  that  has  been  boiled  for  soup  into  half-inch  dice. 
Marinate  it,  using  a  little  grated  onion  with  the  marinade. 
Mix  it  lightly  with  some  cold  boiled  potatoes  cut  into  half-inch 
dice,  and  some  parsley  chopped  fine.  Pour  over  it  a  French 
dressing,  or  Mayonnaise.  Garnish  with  hard-boiled  eggs  and 
lettuce. 

RUSSIAN  SALAD 

Fill  the  outside  of  a  double  mold  with  clear  aspic  jelly  (see 
page  321),  and  the  center  with  a  macedoine  of  vegetables,  or 
with  celery,  or  with  any  one  vegetable.  Marinate  the  vege- 
tables; then  mix  them  with  Mayonnaise  made  with  jelly  in- 
stead of  eggs  (see  page  290).  Cover  the  top  with  jelly  so  the 
vegetables  will  be  completely  enclosed  (see  directions  for  double 
molding,  page  325).  Turn  the  form  of  salad  on  a  flat  dish,  and 
garnish  with  shredded  lettuce. 

INDIVIDUAL  RUSSIAN  SALADS 

Ornament  the  bottom  of  small  timbale-molds  with  carrot 
cut  into  fancy  shape  in  the  center,  and  a  row  of  green  peas 


384  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

around  the  edge.  Add  enough  clear  aspic  or  chicken  jelly 
to  fix  them,  then  fill  the  mold  with  jeUy;  when  it  has  har- 
dened, scoop  out  carefully  with  a  hot  spoon  some  of  the 
jelly  from  the  center,  and  fiU  the  space  at  once  with  a  mace- 
doine  of  vegetables  mixed  with  jelly  Mayonnaise  as  above. 
Serve  each  form  on  a  leaf  of  lettuce.  Pass  Mayonnaise 
separately. 

Note. — Molds  of  salad  in  aspic  maybe  elaborately  decorated 
with  rows  of  different-colored  vegetables,  or  they  may  be 
arranged  in  layers  like  the  aspic  of  p&te. 

Individual  salads,  when  served  for  suppers,  buffet  lunches, 
etc.,  may  be  placed  around  graduated  socles  in  a  pyramid. 
Decorations  of  capers  and  parsley,  also  of  truffles  and  tongue, 
are  suitable  for  Russian  salads. 

ASPIC  OF  PATE  EN  BELLEVTHS 

Ornament  the  bottom  of  individual  timbale  molds  with  a 
daisy  design  made  of  hard-boiled  egg  as  directed,  page  326 ;  fix 
it  with  a  little  jelly  j  then  add  a  layer  of  jelly  one  quarter  inch 
thick,  and  a  layer  of  pM6  de  foie  gras  alternately  until  the 
mold  is  full.  Any  forcemeat  may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 
Turn  the  molds  onto  a  flat  dish  and  surround  them  with 
shredded  lettuce,  or  place  them  on  an  ornamented  socle.  Pass 
Mayonnaise.    (See  illustration  facing  page  328.)  > 

CHICKEN  ASPIC  WITH  WALNUTS 

Make  a  clear  chicken  consomm^  (see  page  100).  To  one 
and  one  half  cupfuls  of  the  consomme  add  one  half  box 
of  Cox's  gelatine  soaked  for  one  half  hour  in  one  half  cupful 
of  cold  water.  Ornament  the  bottom  of  a  quart  Charlotte 
mold  with  a  daisy  design  with  leaf,  as  given  page  326.  Add 
a  layer  of  jelly  one  quarter  inch  thick,  and  then  fill  the 
outside  of  double  mold  with  jelly.  (See  double  molding, 
page  325.)  Fill  the  center  with  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of 
celery  cut  rather  fine,  and  one  half  cupful  of  English  wai- 


o 


liiilH'.  i^ 


RUSSIAN  MACEDOINE   SALADS  WITH  ASPIC. 

PINK   AND  WHITE  OUTSIDE,    CENTER   FILLED  WITH   CELERY,  PEAS   AND  BEANS, 

MIXED  WITH  CHICKEN  ASPIC. 

1.  Turnip.  2.    Beet.                                 3.    Truffle. 

4.  Red  beets.  5.  Slices  of  bard-l)oiled  egg. 

6.  Olives.  7.  Turnip. 

8.  Beet.  9.  Turnip. 


INDIVIDUAL   SALADS. 

1.  Pat^  de  foie  gras  and  aspic  jelly  in  layers.    Daisy  decoration  made  of  hard- 

boiled  egg. 

2.  Russian  Salad  decorated  witb  green  peas  or  capers. 


TOMATO  JELLY  MOLDED   IN   RING,  THE    CENTER  FILLED  WITH   CURLED   CELERY 

AND  MAYONNAISE  — LETTUCE  CUT  INTO  RIBBONS  AROUND  THE  OUTSIDE. 

(SEE   PAGE  381.) 


SALADS  386 

nuts,  broken  to  same  size  as  the  celery.     Mix  them  with  a 
dressing  made  of 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  1  teaspoonf ul  of  vinegar, 

chicken  jelly.  ^  teaspoonf  ul  of  tarragon 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  oil.  vinegar. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt.  J  teaspoonf  ul  of  pepper. 

Cover  the  top  with  jelly,  so  as  to  completely  enclose  the 
celery  mixture.  Turn  it  onto  a  flat  dish,  and  place  around  it  a 
wreath  of  shredded  lettuce.  This  is  a  very  delicious  salad,  and 
well  repays  the  trouble  of  preparation. 

BIBDS-NEST  SALAD 

Rub  a  little  green  coloring  paste  into  cream  cheese,  giving  it 
a  delicate  color  like  birds'  eggs.  Roll  it  into  balls  the  size  of 
birds'  eggs,  using  the  back  or  smooth  side  of  butter-pats. 

Arrange  on  a  flat  dish  some  small  well-crimped  lettuce  leaves; 
group  them  to  look  like  nests,  moisten  them  with  French  dress- 
ing, and  place  five  of  the  cheese  balls  in  each  nest  of  leaves. 
The  cheese  balls  may  be  varied  by  flecking  them  with  black, 
white,  or  red  pepper. 

The  nests  may  be  made  of  shredded  lettuce  if  preferred. 


29 


Chapteb  XYin 
COLD  DESSERTS 

UTENSILS 

Illustration  No.  1,  Egg-beaters. — No.  1,  Dover 
beater;  Nos.  2  and  3,  Wire  Whips;  No.  4,  Daisy 
beater. 

Illustration  No.  2,  Jelly  Molds.— No.  1,  Two  Char- 
lotte  Russe  molds  to  use  for  double  molding;  No.  2, 
cylindrical  mold  for  Charlottes,  Bavarians,  cornstarch, 
etc.;  Nos.  3  and  4,  ring  molds. 

Illustration  No.  3. — No.  1,  jelly  mold  packed  in  ice 
ready  to  be  filled;  No.  2,  smaller  mold  to  fit  inside 
for  double  molding. 

Illustration  No.  4. — Pastry  bag  and  tubes. 

Illustration  No.  5. — Paper  for  filtering  fruit  juices. 

Illustration  No.  6. — No.  1,  lace  papers  to  use  under 
cake,  puddings,  jellies,  individual  creams,  bonbons, 
etc.;  also  for  timbales;  No.  2,  paper  boxes  and  china 
cups  to  use  for  individual  souffles,  biscuits,  glace 
oranges  and  grapes,  creamed  strawberries,  and  cher- 
ries; also  for  creamed  chicken,  and  fish,  salpicon,  etc. 

The  china  cups  are  useful  for  the  latter  purposes. 

The  rectangular  paper  boxes  are  easily  made.  For 
boxes  3ixlf  inches,  cut  heavy  unruled  writing  paper 
into  pieces  5|x7:|  inches;  fold  down  an  edge  two 
inches  wide  aU  around;  fold  it  back  again  on  itself. 
giving  a  border  one  inch  broad.  Cut  the  comers  at 
the  black  line,  as  shown  in  diagram,  and  fold  the  box 
together.    The  ends  wiU  fit  under  the  folds,  and  hold 

386 


1.  Dover  Beater. 

2.  Wire  Spoon. 


EGG  WHIPS. 


3.  Wire  Whip. 

4.  Daisy  Beater. 


JELLY  MOLDS. 


1.  Two  Charlotte  MoUls  for  double  molding.  i-^ 

2.  Cylindrical  Mold.  3,  4.    Ring  Molds. 


I  -  No.  3. 

JELLY  MOLDS. 

1.  Mold  packed  in  ice  for  fancy  molding. 

2.  Smaller  Mold  of  same  sliape  to  lit  into  No.  1  for  double  molding.  (See  page  325.) 


DESSEETS 


387 


the  box  in  shape.  A  little  more  stability  may  be 
given  the  box  by  taking  a  stitch  at  each  corner,  and 
letting  the  thread  run  around  the  top  of  the  box 
under  the  flap. 


1 
1 

j 

1—  i  1 1 

1  : 

1  ; 
1  ' 

■ 1:. 

•I"! "          rri 

WEIGHTS  AND  MEASUBES 

4  gills      =  1  pint. 
2  pints     =  1  quart. 
4  quarts  =  1  gallon. 
16  ounces  =  1  pound. 

i  kitchen  cupful   =  1  gill. 

1  kitchen  cupful   =  ^  pint  or  2  gills. 

4  kitchen  cupfuls  =  1  quart. 

2  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  )  _  ^  , 
2^  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar  y  ~     ^ 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  of  sugar  =  1  ounce. 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  >       g  oz.  or  J  cupful 

Butter  size  of  an  egg  y 

1  cupful  of  butter  =  ^  pound. 

4  cupfuls  of  flour  )  

1  heaping  quart    5  ~     ^ 

8  round  tablespoonf uls  of  dry  material  =  1  cupfuL 

16  tablespoonfuls  of  liquid  =  1  cupful. 

PROPORTIONS 

5  to  8  eggs  to  1  quart  of  milk  for  custards. 

3  to  4  eggs  to  1  pint  of  milk  for  custards. 

1  saltspoonful  o^  salt  to  1  quart  of  milk  for  custards 


390 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


Liqnenn. 


Wines. 


Ean  de  Vie 
de  Dantzio. 


Yanllla 
bean. 


Vanilla 
powder. 

Vanilla 
Sfogar. 


and  by  many  it  is  considered  injurious.  The  essences 
of  fruits,  flowers,  and  nuts  are  preferable.  They  cost 
twenty  cents  per  bottle  of  two  ounces. 

Cordials  or  liqueurs  give  by  far  the  most  delicate 
and  pleasant  flavor  to  jellies,  creams,  and  many  other 
desserts.  They  are  rich  syrups  of  different  flavors, 
and  contain  only  enough  spirits  to  preserve  them. 
Maraschino  has  the  flavor  of  bitter  cherry,  Curasao 
of  orange-peel,  noyau  of  peach-kernels  or  nuts.  They 
cost  about  $1.50  per  bottle,  holding  nearly  a  quart, 
and  last  so  long  a  time  that  the  expense  of  using 
them  is  really  not  greater,  if  as  much,  as  for  vanilla, 
which  costs  twenty-five  cents  for  two  ounces. 

Kirsch,  rum,  and  sherry  are  also  much  used  in  high- 
class  cooking,  and,  like  the  liqueurs,  need  not  be  ex- 
cluded from  use  on  the  score  of  temperance.  The 
slight  flavor  they  impart  to  cooked  dishes  does  not 
suggest  the  drink  or  create  a  taste  for  liquors.  Wine 
augments  the  flavor  of  salt,  and  so  the  latter  should  be 
used  sparingly  until  after  the  flavoring  is  added. 

Eau  de  Vie  de  Dantzic  is  made  of  brandy,  is  highly 
flavored,  and  contains  gold-leaf.  It  is  used  for  jellies, 
making  them  very  ornamental.  There  is  seldom 
enough  gold-leaf  in  it,  however,  and  more  should  be 
added.  A  book  of  gold-leaf  costs  less  than  fifty  cents. 

In  French  cooking  the  vaniQa  bean  is  generally 
used  instead  of  the  extract.  The  bean  is  split  and 
infused  in  the  liquid.  Half  of  one  bean  is  sufficient 
to  flavor  one  quart,  but  its  use  is  not  always  econom- 
ical, as  one  bean  costs  twenty  cents.  It  is  said  the 
Tonquin  bean,  which  is  much  less  expensive,  very 
closely  resembles  the  vanilla  bean  in  flavor  and  can 
be  substituted  for  it. 

Vanilla  powder  is  used  for  ice-creams. 

VaniUa  sugar  is  better  than  the  extract  of  vanilla  for 
meringues,  whips,  etc.,  where  a  liquid  is  not  desirable. 


DESSERTS 


391 


Flavoring  sugars  can  be  made  as  follows : 

Cut  one  ounce  of  dried  vanilla  beans  into  pieces 
and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  one  half  pound  of 
granulated  sugar  to  a  fine  powder.  Pass  it  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Pound  again  the  coarse  pieces  that  do 
not  go  through  at  first.  Keep  it  in  a  well-corked 
bottle  or  preserve  jar. 

Cut  from  six  oranges  the  thin  yellow  rind,  or  zest, 
taking  none  of  the  white  peel.  Let  it  thoroughly 
dry,  then  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  a  cupful  of  granu- 
lated sugar  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Keep  it 
in  an  air-tight  jar.  One  tablespoonful  of  this  sugar 
will  flavor  a  quart  of  custard.  The  Mandarin  orange 
makes  a  good  flavor. 

Another  way  is  to  rub  cut  loaf-sugar  against  the 
peel  of  an  orange  or  lemon.  As  the  sugar  breaks  the 
oil  sacs  and  absorbs  the  zest,  scrape  it  off,  dry,  and 
pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Make  the  same  as  orange  sugar,  using  two  cupfuls 
of  dried  rose  leaves  to  one  of  sugar. 

Orange  and  lemon  syrups  are  made  by  pounding 
the  thin  yellow  rinds  with  a  little  tepid  water  to  a 
pulp,  then  adding  it  to  cold  syrup  at  32°  (see  page  513), 
and  letting  it  infuse  for  an  hour  or  more.  Strain  and 
keep  in  air-tight  jars. 

Pistachio  flavor  can  be  obtained,  when  it  is  not  con- 
venient to  uae  the  nuts,  by  first  flavoring  with  orange- 
flower  water,  then  adding  a  very  little  essence  of 
bitter  almond. 

A  peach  leaf,  infused  with  milk  when  it  is  scalded 
for  custard,  will  give  the  flavor  of  noyau. 

Caramel  (see  page  78).  This  gives  a  very  delicate 
and  agreeable  flavor  to  custards,  cream  and  ices. 

Candied  orange  and  lemon  peel  cut  into  shreds  is 
good  in  custards  and  cakes.  To  prepare  it,  boil  the 
peel  in  water  until  tender,  then  in  sugar  and  water 


Flavoring 
sngars. 


Yanilla 
sugar. 


Orange 
sugar. 


Lemon 
sugar. 


Bose 

sugar. 

Orange 

and  lemon 

syrups. 


Fistaohio 
flavor. 


Caramel. 

Preserved 
orange  and 
lemon  peel. 


390 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


"^l^nes. 


and  by  many  it  is  considered  injurious.  The  essences 
of  fruits,  flowers,  and  nuts  are  preferable.  They  cost 
twenty  cents  per  bottle  of  two  ounces. 
Lic[ueuri.  Cordials  or  liqueurs  give  by  far  the  most  delicate 
and  pleasant  flavor  to  jellies,  creams,  and  many  other 
desserts.  They  are  rich  syrups  of  different  flavors, 
and  contain  only  enough  spirits  to  preserve  them. 
Maraschino  has  the  flavor  of  bitter  cherry,  Curasao 
of  orange-peel,  noyau  of  peach-kernels  or  nuts.  They 
cost  about  $1.50  per  bottle,  holding  nearly  a  quart, 
and  last  so  long  a  time  that  the  expense  of  using 
them  is  really  not  greater,  if  as  much,  as  for  vanilla, 
which  costs  twenty-five  cents  for  two  ounces. 

Elirsch,  rum,  and  sherry  are  also  much  used  in  high- 
class  cooking,  and,  like  the  liqueurs,  need  not  be  ex- 
cluded from  use  on  the  score  of  temperance.  The 
slight  flavor  they  impart  to  cooked  dishes  does  not 
suggest  the  drink  or  create  a  taste  for  liquors.  Wine 
augments  the  flavor  of  salt,  and  so  the  latter  should  be 
used  sparingly  until  after  the  flavoring  is  added. 

Eau  de  Vie  de  Dantzic  is  made  of  brandy,  is  highly 
flavored,  and  contains  gold-leaf.  It  is  used  for  jellies, 
making  them  very  ornamental.  There  is  seldom 
enough  gold-leaf  in  it,  however,  and  more  should  be 
added.  A  book  of  gold-leaf  costs  less  than  fifty  cents. 

In  French  cooking  the  vanilla  bean  is  generally 
used  instead  of  the  extract.  The  bean  is  split  and 
infused  in  the  liquid.  Half  of  one  bean  is  sufficient 
to  flavor  one  quart,  but  its  use  is  not  always  econom- 
ical, as  one  bean  costs  twenty  cents.  It  is  said  the 
Tonquin  bean,  which  is  much  less  expensive,  very 
closely  resembles  the  vanilla  bean  in  flavor  and  can 
be  substituted  for  it. 

Vanilla  powder  is  used  for  ice-creams. 

Vanilla  sugar  is  better  than  the  extract  of  vanilla  for 
meringues,  whips,  etc.,  where  a  liquid  is  not  desirable. 


Eau  de  Vie 
de  Santadc 


TanlUa 
bean. 


Vanilla 
powder. 


Vanilla 
sugar. 


DESSERTS 


391 


Flavoring  sugars  can  be  made  as  follows : 

Cut  one  ounce  of  dried  vanilla  beans  into  pieces 
and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  one  half  pound  of 
granulated  sugar  to  a  fine  powder.  Pass  it  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Pound  again  the  coarse  pieces  that  do 
not  go  through  at  first.  Keep  it  in  a  well-corked 
bottle  or  preserve  jar. 

Cut  from  six  oranges  the  thin  yellow  rind,  or  zest, 
taking  none  of  the  white  peel.  Let  it  thoroughly- 
dry,  then  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  a  cupful  of  granu- 
lated sugar  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Keep  it 
in  an  air-tight  jar.  One  tablespoonful  of  this  sugar 
will  flavor  a  quart  of  custard.  The  Mandarin  orange 
makes  a  good  flavor. 

Another  way  is  to  rub  cut  loaf-sugar  against  the 
peel  of  an  orange  or  lemon.  As  the  sugar  breaks  the 
oil  sacs  and  absorbs  the  zest,  scrape  it  off,  dry,  and 
pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Make  the  same  as  orange  sugar,  using  two  cupfuls 
of  dried  rose  leaves  to  one  of  sugar. 

Orange  and  lemon  syrups  are  made  by  pounding 
the  thin  yellow  rinds  with  a  little  tepid  water  to  a 
pulp,  then  adding  it  to  cold  syrup  at  32°  (see  page  513), 
and  letting  it  infuse  for  an  hour  or  more.  Strain  and 
keep  in  air-tight  jars. 

Pistachio  flavor  can  be  obtained,  when  it  is  not  con- 
venient to  uae  the  nuts,  by  first  flavoring  with  orange- 
flower  water,  then  adding  a  very  little  essence  of 
bitter  almond. 

A  peach  leaf,  infused  with  milk  when  it  is  scalded 
for  custard,  will  give  the  flavor  of  noyau. 

Caramel  (see  page  78).  This  gives  a  very  delicate 
and  agreeable  flavor  to  custards,  cream  and  ices. 

Candied  orange  and  lemon  peel  cut  into  shreds  is 
good  in  custards  and  cakes.  To  prepare  it,  boil  the 
peel  in  water  until  tender,  then  in  sugar  and  water 


Flavoring 
sugars. 


Vanilla 
sngar. 


Orange 
sngar. 


Lemon 
sngar. 


Boie 

sugar. 

Orange 

and  lemon 

syrups. 


Pistachio 
flavor. 


Caramel. 

Preserved 
orange  and 
lemon  peel. 


393 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


until  clear;  let  it  stand  in  tlie  syrup  several  hours, 
then  drain  and  dry.  It  will  keep  indefinitely  in  a 
closed  jar. 


Fruit 
jnioes. 


Candied 

California 

fmits. 


Angelica. 


COLORINQ 

Vegetable  coloring  pastes,  which  are  entirely  harm- 
less, can  be  obtained  for  twenty-five  cents  a  bottle. 
The  green  and  the  red,  or  carmine,  are  the  colors  gen- 
erally used  for  icings,  creams  and  jellies.  The  orange 
is  used  for  orange-cake  icing  and  candies.  Very  little 
should  be  used,  as  the  colors  should  be  delicate.  To 
guai'd  against  using  too  much  it  is  well  to  dilute  it 
with  a  little  water  and  add  only  a  few  drops  at  a 
time  to  the  mixture. 

The  various  shades  of  red  to  pink  are  obtained  by 
using  more  or  less  carmine. 

Fruit  juices  impart  both  color  and  flavor.  They 
should  be  filtered  (see  page  415)  before  using,  or  they 
give  a  muddy  color. 

GARNISHma 

To  decorate  cold  sweet  dishes,  use  fancy  cakes, 
icings,  fruits  either  fresh,  candied,  compote  or  glac6 ; 
jellies  or  blauc-mange  molded,  or  made  into  a  layer 
and  then  cut  into  fancy  shapes.  Spun  sugar  (see 
page  515)  makes  a  fine  decoration,  and  can  be  formed 
into  nests,  wreaths,  balls,  or  simply  spread  irregularly 
over  a  dish. 

The  candied  California  fruits  are  very  useful  and 
beautiful  for  both  cold  and  hot  desserts.  They  cost 
sixty  to  eighty  cents  a  pound,  and  are  not  expensive, 
as  but  little  is  used  at  a  time,  and  they  keep  indefi- 
nitely in  closed  jars.  Cherries  are  used  whole,  the 
other  fruits  are  cut  into  pieces. 

Angelica  is  also  very  effective  for  decoration.  A 
piece  costing  twenty  cents  will  go  a  long  way.    It  is 


LACE  PAPERS,  PAPER  BOXES,  AND  CHINA  BOX, 


No.  (5. 


FLOATING  ISLAND.      (SEE  PAGE  395.) 


DESSEETS 


393 


cut  into  thin  strips  and  then  into  diamond-shaped  or 
triangular  pieces^  and  used  to  simulate  leaves.  The 
combination  of  cherries  and  angelica  is  especially 
pretty. 

A  mold  sprinkled  with  currants  makes  a  good  gar- 
nish for  hot  or  cold  puddings. 

Raisins  and  almonds  also  make  an  effective  garnish 
for  either  hot  or  cold  desserts. 

Almonds,  pistachio  nuts,  filberts,  English  walnuts 
and  chestnuts  are  employed  in  many  ways,  as  see 
receipts. 

Fresh  flowers  and  green  leaves  may  be  used  with 
good  effect  on  many  cold  dishes.  Pink  roses  lend 
themselves  particularly  to  this  purpose.  Violets,  pan- 
sies,  geraniums,  sweet-peas  and  others  are  often  ap- 
propriate. Nasturtiums  with  salad  are  good  for  both 
decoration  and  flavor.  (See  opposite  pages  328,410,492.) 

Colored  sugars  and  small  candies  called  "  hundreds 
and  thousands"  are  used  to  sprinkle  over  icings, 
meringues,  creams  and  whips.  To  color  sugar  sift 
coarse  granulated  sugar,  spread  the  coarse  grains  on 
stiff  paper,  and  drop  on  it  a  few  drops  of  coloring 
fluid.  Roll  it  under  the  hand  until  evenly  tinted, 
then  leave  to  dry  on  the  paper.  Keep  in  corked 
bottles. 

Sauces  for  cold  sweet  dishes  are  custards,  whipped 
cream,  canned  or  preserved  fruit,  fresh  fruit  juices, 
or  purees.  The  purees  are  crushed  fruit  sweetened 
to  taste  (with  sjrrup  at  30^  if  convenient).  They  are 
improved  with  a  little  flavoring  of  Maraschino,  kirsch, 
Curasao,  or  with  orange  or  lemon  juice.  Peach  is  im- 
proved in  appearance  if  slightly  colored  with  carmine. 

Canned  fruits  are  now  very  inexpensive,  and  many 
of  them  are  fresh  in  taste  as  well  as  appearance.  They 
are  useful  in  a  variety  of  desserts,  and  often  suit  the 
purpose  as  well  as  fresh  fruits. 


CnrrantB. 

Baisins 

and 
almonds. 

Nata. 


Fresh 
flowers. 


Colored 
sugars. 


Sanoei. 


Canned 
frnits. 


394  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


THE   STORE-CLOSET 


Oarnishiiiff 
and 


The  various  articles  needed  for  garnishing,  flavor- 
ing, etc.,  should  be  kept  in  glass  preserve  jars,  and 
labeled.  The  store-closet,  once  furnished  with  the 
requisites  for  fancy  dishes,  will  tempt  the  ordinary- 
cook  to  a  higher  class  of  work,  and  contribute  to  the 
flavoring,  desirable  end  of  presenting  dishes  that  please  both 
sight  and  taste,  and  so  raise  the  standard  of  eveiy- 
day  cooking.  It  is  very  easy  to  garnish  a  dish  or 
decorate  a  mold,  and  the  habit  once  fonned  will  lead 
to  more  ambitious  attempts. 

CUSTABDS 

BOILED  CUSTARD  NO.  1 

2  cupfuls,  or  one  pint,  of  milk,    ^  saltspoonful  of  salt. 
Yolks  of  3  eggs.  ^  teaspoonf  ul  of  vanilla. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Boiled  custard  is  the  basis  of  many  puddings,  ice-creams  and 
sauces.  It  requires  care  to  get  it  just  right,  for  the  cooking 
must  be  arrested  at  the  right  point ;  a  moment  too  soon  leaves 
it  too  thin,  a  moment  too  long  curdles  and  spoils  it.  It  should 
have  the  consistency  of  thick  cream,  and  be  perfectly  smooth. 
It  is  safer  to  make  it  in  a  double  boiler.  Bring  the  milk  to  the 
scalding-point  without  boiling ;  then  take  from  the  fire,  and  pour 
it  slowly  into  the  eggs  and  sugar,  which  have  been  beaten  togeth- 
er to  a  cream ;  stir  aU  the  time ;  replace  on  th«  fire,  and  stii*  until 
the  custard  coats  the  spoon,  or  a  smooth  creamy  consistency  is 
attained ;  then  immediately  strain  it  into  a  cold  dish,  and  add 
the  flavoring.  K  vanilla  bean,  peach  leaves,  or  lemon  zest  are 
used  for  flavoring,  they  can  be  boiled  with  the  milk.  K  by  ac- 
cident the  custard  begins  to  grain,  arrest  the  cooking  at  once  by 
putting  the  saucepan  in  cold  water ;  add  a  little  cold  milk,  and 
beat  it  vigorously  with  a  Dover  beater.  Five  egg  yolks  to  a 
quart  of  milk  will  make  a  good  boUed  custard,  but  six  or  eight 


DESSERTS  .  896 

make  it  richer.  It  is  smoother  when  the  yolks  only  are  used,  yet 
the  whole  egg  makes  a  good  custard,  and  in  the  emergency  of  not 
having  enough  eggs  at  hand  a  little  corn-starch  may  be  used. 

Boiled  custard  may  be  flavored  with  vanilla,  almond,  rose, 
maraschino,  noyau,  caramel,  coffee,  chopped  almonds,  grated 
cocoanut,  or  pounded  macaroons.  The  cocoanut  makes  a  de- 
licious custard,  but  must  be  rich  with  eggs  and  stiff  enough  to 
keep  the  cocoanut  from  settling  to  the  bottom. 

BOILED   CUSTAED  NO.  2. 

Make  a  boiled  custard  (see  preceding  receipt),  using  a  pint  of 
milk,  three  egg  yolks,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  dash  of 
salt,  and  any  flavoring  preferred.  Let  it  get  entirely  cold;  just 
before  serving  mix  in  lightly  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  to 
a  stiff  froth.  This  will  give  a  sponge-like  texture,  and  make  a 
very  delicate  custard.  As  the  whites  are  not  cooked  it  will  not 
keep  long  after  they  are  added.  Ornament  the  top  with  bits  of 
jeUy  on  small  pieces  of  the  whipped  egg. 

FLOATING  ISLAND 

Whip  the  whites  of  two  or  three  eggs  very  stiff ;  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  powdered  sugar  (see  page  389)  to  each  egg ;  flavor 
with  essence  of  almond,  and  add  a  few  chopped  almonds.  Turn 
it  into  an  oiled  pudding-mold  which  has  a  fancy  top  ;  cover  and 
place  it  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  to  poach  for  twenty 
minutes.  Leave  enough  room  in  the  mold  for  the  meringue  to 
swell.  Let  it  stand  in  the  mold  until  cold ;  it  wiU  contract  and 
leave  the  sides.  When  ready  to  serve,  unmold  the  meringue 
and  place  it  on  boiled  custard  served  in  a  glass  dish. 

CHOCOLATE  CUSTAED 

Make  a  boiled  custard  No.  1,  using  the  whites  as  well  as  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs ;  add  one  bar  of  melted  chocolate  (see  page  388). 
Mix  thoroughly  and  strain  into  cups. 


396  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

BAKES  CUSTABD 

Use  the  same  proportions  as  for  boiled  custard.  Beat  the 
eggs,  sugar,  and  salt  together  to  a  cream ;  stir  in  the  scalded 
milk ;  turn  into  a  pudding-dish  or  into  cups ;  grate  a  little  nut- 
meg over  the  top ;  stand  it  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  firm  in  the  center.  Test  by  running  a  knife 
into  the  custard.  If  it  comes  out  clean,  it  is  done  j  if  milky,  it 
needs  longer  cooking ;  but  it  must  be  carefully  watched,  for  it 
will  separate  if  cooked  too  long. 

A  custard,  to  be  smooth  and  solid,  must  be  baked  very  slowly. 
The  holes  often  seen  in  baked  custai'd  are  caused  by  escaping 
bubbles  of  steam,  which  rise  through  the  mixture  when  the  heat 
reaches  the  boiling-point. 

CAEAMEL  CUSTASD 

Put  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  into  a  small  saucepan  with 
a  tablespoonful  of  water;  stir  until  melted;  then  let  it  cook 
until  a  light  brown  color  (see  caramel,  page  78).  Turn  one 
half  the  caramel  into  a  well-buttered  mold  which  has  straight 
sides  and  flat  top,  and  let  it  get  cold.  Into  the  rest  of  the  cara- 
mel turn  a  half  cupful  of  hot  water,  and  let  it  stand  on  the  side 
of  the  range  until  the  caramel  is  dissolved.   This  is  for  the  sauce. 

Stir  four  yolks  and  two  whole  eggs,  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  one  haE  saltspoonf  ul  of  salt,  to  a  cream,  but  do 
not  let  it  froth ;  add  a  pint  of  scalded  milk  and  a  haK  teaspoon- 
ful  of  vanilla.  Strain  this  into  the  mold  onto  the  cold  hard- 
ened caramel.  Place  the  mold  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  bake 
in  a  very  moderate  oven  until  firm  in  the  center ;  test  by  run- 
ning in  a  knife  (see  baked  custard),  and  watch  it  carefuUy.  The 
water  in  the  pan  must  not  boil,  and  the  oven  should  be  so  slow 
that  it  will  take  at  least  an  hour  to  cook  the  custard.  It  will 
then  be  very  firm  and  smooth.  Unmold  the  custard  when  ready 
to  serve.  It  will  have  a  glaze  of  caramel  over  the  top,  and  some 
will  run  down  the  sides.  Serve  the  caramel  sauce  in  another 
dish.    This  dish  is  recommended. 


CORNSTARCH  PUDDING  IN  LAYERS.      (SEE  PAGE    398.) 


CORNSTARCH  PUDlJlNG  MOLDKD   IN   KINO    MOLD  WITH   WHITE    CALIFORNIA 
CANNED  CHERRIES  AND  CENTER  FILLED  WITH  CHERRIES. 


DESSERTS  397 

CHOCOLATE  CREAH  CUSTABD 

Use  the  same  proportions  as  for  caramel  custard.  Add  one  and 
one  half  ounces  of  melted  chocolate  (see  page  388).  Strain  it  into 
a  buttered  mold,  and  bake  slowly  the  same  as  caramel  custard. 
Unmold  when  cold,  and  serve  with  or  without  whipped  cream. 

Both  the  caramel  and  the  chocolate  cream  custards  may  be 
baked  in  individual  timbale-molds,  if  preferred. 

RENNET  CUSTARD 

Sweeten  and  flavor  the  milk ;  heat  it  until  lukewarm  j  then 
turn  it  into  the  glass  dish  in  which  it  is  to  be  served.  Add  to 
each  quart  of  milk  a  tablespoonful  of  liquid  rennet  (which  comes 
prepared  for  custards),  and  mix  it  thoroughly.  Let  it  stand 
where  it  will  remain  lukewarm  until  a  nrm  curd  is  formed ;  then 
remove  carefully  to  a  cold  place.  If  jarred  the  whey  is  likely 
to  separate.  Brandy  or  rum  make  the  best  flavoring  for  this 
custard,  but  any  flavoring  may  be  used.  It  may  be  served  with- 
out sauce,  but  a  whipped  cream,  colored  pink,  improves  it,  and 
also  takes  away  the  suggestion  of  soured  milk  which  curds  give. 

CORN-STARCH  PUDDINGS 

(no.  1).     A  PLAIN  CORN-STARCH  PUDDING 

1  pint  of  milk.  3  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar. 

2  heaping  tablespoonfuls  Whites  of  3  eggs. 

of  corn-starch.  J  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Beat  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Dissolve  the  corn-starch  in  a  little 
of  the  cold  milk.  Stir  the  sugar  into  the  rest  of  the  milk,  and 
place  it  on  the  fire.  When  it  begins  to  boil,  add  the  dissolved 
corn-starch.  Stir  constantly  for  a  few  moments.  When  it  be- 
comes well  thickened,  stir  in  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs,  and 
let  it  remain  a  little  longer  to  cook  the  eggs.  Remove  from  the 
fire ;  flavor  with  vanilla,  and  turn  it  into  a  mold.* 

*  CJorn-starcli  has  a  raw  taste  unless  it  Is  thoroughly  cooked.  After  the  mixture 
has  thickened  It  can  be  left  to  cook  in  a  double  boiler  for  half  an  hour  without  chang- 
ing its  consistency,  and  this  length  of  time  for  cooking  is  essential  to  its  flavor.  A 
mold  of  com  starch  should  not  be  very  flim,  but  have  a  trembling  jelly-like  consist- 
ency. The  eggs  may  be  omitted  from  above  receipt  if  desired,  but  the  pudding  will 
not  be  as  delicate.— M.  R. 


398  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

This  pudding  is  quickly  and  easily  made.  It  gives  about  a 
quart  of  pudding,  or  enough  to  serve  six  to  eight  persons.  It 
may  or  may  not  be  served  with  a  custard  made  of  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs,  but  it  requires  a  good  sauce  and  flavoring,  or  it  is 
rather  tasteless.  Several  variations  of  this  receipt  are  given 
below. 

(no.  2.)      CORN-STARCH  WITH  CANNED  FRUIT 

When  the  corn-starch  is  sufficiently  set  to  hold  the  fruit  in 
place,  stir  into  it  lightly  one  half  can  of  well-drained  fruit  (cher- 
ries, raspberries,  strawberries,  or  any  other  fruit),  and  turn  it 
into  a  mold  to  harden.  Serve  the  juice  of  the  fruit  with  it  as  a 
sauce. 

(NO.  3.)      COCOANTJT  PUDDING 

When  the  corn-starch  is  removed  from  the  fire,  and  partly 
cooled,  add  haK  a  cocoanut  gi*ated.  Mix  it  well  together  and 
turn  into  a  mold ;  serve  with  a  custard  or,  better,  with  whipped 
cream.  Sprinkle  sugar  over  the  half  of  the  grated  cocoanut  not 
used,  and  spread  it  on  a  sieve  to  dry.  It  will  keep  for  some  time 
when  dried. 

(NO.  4.)      CHOCOLATE  PUDDING 

When  the  corn-starch  is  taken  from  the  fire  and  flavored,  turn 
one  third  of  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  mix  with  it  one  and  a  half 
ounces  or  squares  of  chocolate  melted,  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  sugar  if 
unsweetened  chocolate  is  used,  and  a  haH  cupful  of  stoned  raisins. 
Let  it  cook  one  minute  to  set  the  chocolate.  Turn  into  a  plain 
cylindrical  mold  one  half  of  the  white  corn-starch.  Make  it  a 
smooth,  even  layer,  keeping  the  edges  clean ;  then  add  the  choco- 
late ;  smooth  it  in  the  same  way ;  then  add  the  rest  of  the  white 
corn-starch,  making  three  even  layers,  alternating  in  color; 
after  each  layer  is  in  wipe  the  sides  of  the  mold  so  no  speck 
of  one  color  will  deface  the  other.    (See  illustration.) 

COBN-STABGH  CHOCOLATES 

(very  simple,  and  quickly  made) 
Scald  a  pint  of  milk  and  four  tablespoonf uls  of  sugar ;  add  an 
ounce  of  chocolate  shaved  thin,  so  it  will  dissolve  quickly ;  then 


DESSERTS  399 

add  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starcli  which  has  been 
diluted  with  a  little  of  the  cold  milk.  Stir  over  the  fire  until 
the  mixture  is  thickened,  add  a  half  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and 
turn  it  into  small  cups  to  cool  and  harden.  Unmold  the  forms 
when  ready  to  serve,  and  use  sweetened  milk  for  a  sauce.  By 
using  a  little  less  corn-starch,  this  mixture  will  be  a  smooth, 
thick  custard,  and  may  be  served  in  the  cups. 

BLANG-MANOE,  OB  WHITE  JELLT 

J  box,  or  1  ounce,  of  gelatine.      f  cupful  of  sugar. 
3^  cupfuls  of  milk.  1  teaspoonful  of  vanilla, 

or  other  flavor. 

Scald  three  cupfuls  of  milk  with  the  sugar ;  then  add  and  dis- 
solve in  it  the  gelatine,  which  has  soaked  for  one  haK  hour  in  a 
half  cupful  of  milk.  Remove  from  the  fire,  add  the  flavoring, 
and  strain  into  a  mold.  Blanc-mange  may  be  flavored  with  any 
of  the  liqueurs,  and  it  may  have  incoi-porated  with  it,  when  stiff- 
ened enough  to  hold  them  suspended,  chopped  nuts  or  fruits,  or 
raisins,  currants,  and  citron. 

PLUM  PUDDING  JELLY 

J  box,  or  1  ounce,  of  gelatine    1  cupful  of  sugar. 

soaked  J  hour  in  1  cupful  of    1  pint  of  milk. 

cold  water.  1  cupful  of  raisins  stoned. 

IJ  ounces  of  chocolate.  ^  cupful  of  currants. 

^  cupful  of  sliced  citron. 

Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  milk,  and  put  it  in  a  double  boiler 
to  scald.  Melt  the  chocolate  on  a  dry  pan;  then  add  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  the  milk  to  make  it  smooth,  and  add  it  to  the 
scalded  milk.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  soaked  gela- 
tine. Stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved;  then  strain  it  into  a 
bowl.  When  it  begins  to  set,  or  is  firm  enough  to  hold  the  fruit 
in  place,  stir  in  the  fruit,  which  must  have  stood  in  warm 
water  a  little  while  to  soften.  Flavor  with  one  half  teaspoon- 
ful of  vanilla,  or  a  few  drops  of  lemon.    Turn  it  into  a  mold  to 


400  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

harden.  Serve  with  it  whipped  cream,  or  a  sauce  made  of  the 
whipped  white  of  one  egg,  one  tablespoonf  ul  of  powdered  sugar, 
a  cupful  of  milk,  and  a  few  drops  of  vanilla. 

BAVARIAN  CREAMS 


Qeneral 


Bavarian  creams  are  very  wholesome,  light,  and 
delicious  desserts.  They  are  easily  made,  and  are  in- 
ramarks  expensive,  as  one  pint  of  cream  is  sufficient  to  make 
about,  a  quart  and  a  half  of  bavarian.  They  are  subject  to 
so  many  variations  that  they  may  be  often  presented 
without  seeming  to  be  the  same  dish.  Bavarian 
creams  may  be  used  for  Charlotte  Russe. 

General   Rules. — Have    the    cream   cold;    then 
whipped,  and  drained  (see  whipping  cream),  and  do 
not  add  the  whipped  cream  to  the  gelatine  mixture 
,  until  the  latter  is  beginning  to  set. 

How  to        Have  the  gelatine  soaked  in  cold  water  one  hour. 
™*^'      It  will  then  quickly  dissolve  in  the  hot  custard. 
Do  not  boil  the  gelatine. 

PLAUr  BAVABIAir  CBEAM 

1  pint  of  cream  whipped.  J  box,  or  1  ounce,  of  gela- 

1  pint  of  cream  or  milk.  tine   soaked  in  one  half 

^  cupful  of  sugar.     '  cupful  of  water. 

Yolks  of  4  eggs.  J  vanilla  bean,  or  1  teaspoon- 

^  saltspoonful  of  salt.  f ul  of  vanilla  extract. 

Whip  one  pint  of  cream,  and  stand  it  aside  to  drain.  Scald 
one  pint  of  cream  or  milk  with  the  vanUla  bean  split  in  two ; 
remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  turn  it  slowly,  stirring  all  the  time, 
on  the  yolks,  which  have  been  beaten  with  the  sugar  and  salt 
to  a  cream.  Return  it  to  the  fire  a  moment  to  set  the  egg,  but 
take  it  off  the  moment  it  begins  to  thicken.  Add  the  soaked 
gelatine  and  flavoring  (if  the  bean  has  not  been  used).  Stir 
until  the  gelatine  has  dissolved,  then  pass  it  through  a  sieve. 


DESSERTS  401 

When  it  is  cold,  and  beginning  to  set,  whip  it  a  few  minutes  with 
a  Dover  beater  and  then  mix  in  lightly  the  whipped  cream,  and 
turn  it  into  a  mold  to  harden.  Avoid  using  any  of  the  cream 
which  has  returned  to  liquid.  This  cream  should  have  a  spongy 
texture. 

CHOCOLATE  BAVARIAHT 

Use  the  receipt  given  above  for  plain  Bavarian.  Melt  two 
ounces  of  chocolate,  and  dissolve  it  in  a  little  milk;  add  this  to 
the  custard  mixture  before  the  gelatine. 

ITALIAK  CBEAM,   OB  BAVABIAH  WITHOUT  CBEAM 

Make  a  custard  of  one  pint  of  milk,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  j  add  a  dash  of  salt.  When  it 
is  cooked  enough  to  coat  the  spoon,  add  an  ounce  of  gelatine, 
which  has  soaked  for  half  an  hour  in  some  of  the  cold  milk. 
As  soon  as  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  remove  from  the  fire,  and 
when  it  begins  to  stiffen  fold  in  carefully  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  turn  it  into  a  mold  to  set. 

FRUIT  BAVARIAN 

Mash  and  press  through  a  colander  any  fresh  or  canned  fruit 
If  berries  are  used,  press  them  through  a  sieve  to  extract  the 
seeds.  Sweeten  to  taste,  and  flavor  with  a  little  orange  and 
lemon-juice,  Curasao,  or  maraschino.  To  a  pint  of  fruit  juice 
or  pulp  add  a  half  box  or  one  ounce  of  gelatine,  which  has 
soaked  an  hour  in  one  half  cupful  of  cold  water,  and  then  been 
dissolved  in  one  half  cupful  of  hot  water.  Stir  the  fruit  and 
gelatine  on  ice  until  it  begins  to  set,  otherwise  the  fruit  will  set- 
tle to  the  bottom.  Then  stir  in  lightly  a  pint  of  cream  whipped 
and  well-drained,  and  turn  it  into  a  mold  to  harden.  Straw- 
berries, raspberries,  pineapple,  peaches,  and  apricots  are  the 
fruits  generally  used.  With  fruits  it  is  better  to  use  a  porce- 
lain mold  if  possible,  as  tin  discolors.  If  a  tin  one  is  used,  coat 
it  with  jeUy  as  directed  on  page  323,  using  a  little  of  the  dis- 
solved gelatine  (sweetened  and  flavored)  prepared  for  the  fruit 


402  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

BICE  BAVABIAN,  OR  BIZ  A  L'IMPEBATBICE 

Put  into  a  double  boiler  one  and  one  half  pints  of  milk  and  a 
few  thin  cuts  of  lemon-zest;  when  it  boils  stir  in  one  half  cup- 
ful of  well- washed  rice  and  a  saltspoonf  ul  of  salt.  Cook  until 
the  rice  is  perfectly  tender.  The  milk  should  be  nearly  boUed 
away,  leaving  the  rice  very  moist.  Then  add  or  mix  in  care- 
fully a  half  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  quarter  of  a  box,  or  one  half 
ounce,  of  gelatine,  which  has  soaked  in  half  a  cupful  of  cold 
water  for  one  hour,  and  then  melted  by  placing  the  cup  con- 
taining it  in  hot  water  for  a  few  minutes.  When  the  mixture  is 
partly  cold  add  three  tablespoonf  uls  each  of  maraschino  and  of 
sherry,  or  of  sherry  alone,  or  of  any  other  flavoring.  When  it 
is  beginning  to  set,  stir  in  lightly  one  half  pint  or  more  of  well- 
whipped  cream,  and  turn  it  into  a  mold.  This  is  a  very  white 
dish,  and  is  a  delicious  dessert.  It  may  be  served  alone,  or  with 
orange  jelly  cut  into  croiitons,  or  with  orange  compote  (see 
page  536),  or  with  plain  or  whipped  cream. 

BAVARIAN  PAKAGHEE 

Make  a  plain  Bavarian ;  flavor  with  vanilla ;  divide  it  into  three 
parts  before  the  cream  is  added.  Into  one  third  stir  one  ounce 
of  melted  chocolate.  Into  another  third  mix  two  tablespoonf  uls 
of  pistachio  nuts  chopped  fine,  and  color  it  green  (see  page  392). 
Arrange  the  three  parts  in  layers  in  a  mold,  beginning  with  the 
white,  and  stir  into  each  one,  after  it  has  begun  to  set,  and  just 
before  putting  it  into  the  mold,  a  third  of  the  whipped  cream. 
By  keeping  it  in  a  warm  place  the  Bavarian  will  not  set 
before  it  is  wanted,  and  it  can  then  be  made  to  set  quickly  by 
placing  it  on  ice. 

BAVABIAir  EN  SURPRISE 

Line  a  mold  with  chocolate  Bavarian  one  inch  thick.  Fill  the 
center  with  vanilla  Bavarian  mixed  with  chopped  nuts,  or  line 
the  mold  with  vanilla  Bavarian,  and  fill  with  fruit  Bavarian  (see 
double  molding,  page  325). 


COKNSTARCH   I'UDDraG  WITH  PAN8IES  MOLDED  IN  A   LAYER  OF  JELLY  ON  TOP - 
GARNTSHED  WITH  PAN8IE8. 


CUAKLOTTE  BUSSE  WITH  CAKE  ARRANGED  IN  STBIPS  OP  TWO  COLORS. 
(SEE  PAGE  404.) 


DESSERTS  403 

DIPLOMATIC  PUDDING 

TMs  is  molded  in  a  double  mold,  and  made  of  very  clear 
lemon,  orange,  or  wine  jelly  for  the  outside,  and  a  Bavarian 
cream  for  the  inside.  "With  candied  fruits  make  a  design  on  the 
bottom  of  the  larger  mold  (see  molding,  page  325)  ,•  fix  it  with  a 
very  little  jeUy,  then  add  enough  more  to  make  a  half  or 
three  quarter  inch  layer  of  jelly.  When  it  is  set  put  in  the 
center  mold.  Make  a  layer  of  fruit  and  a  layer  of  jelly  alter- 
nately until  the  outside  space  is  filled,  using  fruits  of  different 
colors  for  the  different  layers  or  stripes.  When  it  is  set,  re- 
move the  small  mold,  and  fill  the  space  with  Bavarian,  using  a 
flavor  that  goes  well  with  the  one  used  in  the  jelly — mara- 
schino with  orange ;  sherry,  noyau,  or  almond  with  lemon. 

DIPLOMATIC  BAVARIAN 

Take  six  lady-fingers  j  open,  and  spread  them  with  apricot,  or 
with  peach  jam.  Place  them  together  again  like  a  sandwich. 
Moisten  them  with  maraschino,  and  cut  them  in  one  inch  lengths. 
Boil  until  softened  a  half  cupful  of  stoned  raisins  and  a  half 
cupful  of  currants;  drain  them,  and  moisten  them  with  maras- 
chino. Make  a  plain  Bavarian  flavored  with  kirsch.  When  it 
is  beginning  to  set  and  ready  to  go  into  the  mold,  mix  it  lightly 
with  the  cake  and  fruit,  and  turn  into  a  mold  to  harden. 

CHARLOTTE  RUSSE 

Charlotte  Russe  is  simply  a  cream  mixture,  molded.      Forms, 
with  cake  on  the  outside.     It  is  easily  made  and  al- 
ways liked.     Charlotte  pans  are  oval,  but  any  plain, 
round  mold,  or  a  kitchen  basin  with  sides  not  too 
slanting,  or  individual  molds  may  be  used. 

First  place  on  the  bottom  of  the  pan  an  oiled  paper     General 
which  is  cut  to  fit  it  neatly ;  then  arrange  lady-fingers   directions, 
evenly  around  the  sides,  or  instead  of  lady-fingers  use 
strips  of  layer  sponge  cake.  No,  1  (page  466),  or  of 
Genoese  (page  467),   Cut  the  strips  one  or  one  and  a 


404  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

half  inches  wide,  and  fit  them  closely  together.  Fill 
the  center  with  any  of  the  mixtures  given  below,  and 
let  it  stand  an  hour  or  more  to  harden. 

A  sheet  of  cake  cut  to  fit  the  top  may,  or  may  not, 
be  used.    K  cake  is  used  it  is  better  to  place  it  on  the 
Charlotte  after  it  is  unmolded  and  the  paper  removed. 
The  layer  cake  should  be  one  quarter  or  three  eighths 
Ornament-  of  an  inch  thick  only.    Charlottes  can  be  ornamented 
ation.      in  many  ways,  and  made  very  elaborate  if  desired.    A 
simple  decoration  is  obtained  by  having  the  strips  of 
Cake  in     cake  in  two  colors,  alternating  the  upper,  or  browned, 
two  moon.  ^fTj^  ^}je  under,  or  white,  side  of  the  cake.     For  the 
top,  cut  a  piece  of  cake  to  the  right  shape.     Then  cut 
it  transversely,  making  even,  triangular  pieces,  with 
the  width  at  the  base  the  same  as  the  side  strips. 
Turn  over  each  alternate  piece  to  give  the  two  col- 
loing  in     ors  (see  illustration) ;    or,  ice  the  strips  and  the  top 
0  CO  ors.  pJQQQ  of  QQ^Q  ^^IjJj  royal  icing  (see  illustration)  in 
two  colors.    Let  the  icing  harden  before  placing  it 
in  the  mold.    Have  the  sides,  as  weU  as  the  bottom, 
of  the  mold  lined  with  paper.    Arrange  the  strips  in 
the  mold  with  the  colors  alternating.    Instead  of  us- 
ing cake  for  the  top,  some  of  the  filling  mixture  can 
be  put  into  a  pastry-bag,  and  pressed  through  a  tube 
Decorating  over  the  top  in  fancy  forms.    Meringue  or  whipped 
*  cream  may  also  be  used  for  decorating  the  top. 

CHAELOTTE  RUSSE  FILLING  No.  1 

Whip  a  piat  of  cream  to  a  stiff  froth.  Soak  a  half  ounce  of 
gelatine  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water  for  half  an  hour; 
then  dissolve  it  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water.  Add 
to  the  whipped  cream  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar  (or  a 
little  more  if  liqueurs  are  not  used  for  flavoring),  and  two  des- 
sertspoonfuls of  noyau  or  other  liqueur,  or  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla.  Then  turn  in  slowly  the  dissolved  gelatine,  beating  all 
the  time.  When  it  begins  to  stiffen  turn  it  into  a  mold  which 
is  lined  with  cake. 


DESSERTS  405 

CHABLOTTE  BUSSE  FULING  No.  2 

Beat  well  together  two  yolks  of  eggs  and  a  half  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar.  Scald  a  half  cupful  of  milk,  and  stir  it  into 
the  beaten  yolks;  add  a  dash  of  salt,  and  return  it  to  the  double 
boiler.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  coats  the  spoon,  thus  making 
a  plain  boiled  custard.  Add  to  the  hot  custard  a  level  table- 
spoonful  of  Coopei*'s  gelatine,  which  has  soaked  for  haK  an  hour 
in  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water;  stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dis- 
solved, then  strain  it  into  a  bowl;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sherry  (or  use  any  flavoring  desii'ed)  and  the  whipped  whites  of 
two  eggs ;  beat  until  it  just  begins  to  thicken,  then  mix  in  lightly 
a  pint  of  cream  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  turn  into  the  mold. 

CHABLOTTE  BUSSE  FILLING  No.  3  (Emit) 

Soak  an  ounce  of  gelatine  in  a  half  cupful  of  cold  water  for 
half  an  hour.  Make  a  syrup  of  one  cupful  of  sugar,  a  half  cup- 
ful of  lemon-juice,  and  two  cupfuls  of  orange-juice.  When  it 
has  become  a  light  syrup,  turn  it  slowly  onto  the  beaten  yolks 
of  foui*  eggs,  beating  all  the  time.  Return  it  to  the  double 
boiler,  and  cook  until  it  is  a  little  thickened,  then  add  the  gela- 
tine. When  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  strain  and  beat  until  it  is 
cold;  add  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  and  beat  untU  it  stiffens, 
then  tui'n  it  into  the  mold.  A  pint  of  whipped  cream  may  be 
used  instead  of  the  whipped  whites  of  the  eggs  if  convenient. 
In  place  of  orange  and  lemon- juice,  any  fruit  may  be  used. 
Stew  the  fruit  until  tender,  add  enough  sugar  to  sweeten,  and 
cook  it  to  a  light  syrup;  then  press  the  fruit  through  a  sieve, 
and  to  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  fruit  syrup  or  of  fruit  pulp 
add  the  four  eggs,  and  proceed  as  directed  for  the  orange  filling. 

CHABLOTTE  BUSSE  FILLING,  No.  4 

Use  any  of  the  plain  or  fruit  Bavarian  creams. 

CHABLOTTE  BUSSE  FILLING  No.  5 

Use  whipped  jelly  plain,  or  whipped  jelly  with  fruits,  called 
macedoine  of  fruits  (see  page  417). 


406  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

TIMBALE  OF  BRIOCHE 

Bake  a  brioche  (see  page  359)  in  a  cylindrical  mold.  Oat  a 
straight  slice  off  the  top  about  one  inch  thick;  replace  the  cake 
in  the  tin,  and  carefully  pick  out  the  center  of  the  loaf,  leaving 
a  thickness  of  one  inch  of  the  brioche.  Spread  the  inside  with  a 
layer  of  jam.  Put  in  a  saucepan  the  liquor  from  a  can  of 
apricots  or  peaches.  Stir  into  it  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  arrow- 
root, moistened  with  a  little  water,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until 
the  juice  is  thickened  and  clear.  Fill  the  center  of  the  brioche 
with  the  drained  fruit,  mixed  with  blanched  almonds  and  rai- 
sins; pour  over  it  the  thickened  syrup,  replace  the  cover. 
When  set  turn  it  onto  a  dish;  spread  the  outside  with  a  little 
jam,  and  sprinkle  with  chopped  blanched  almonds.  This  makes 
a  very  simple  and  wholesome  sweet. 

CHARLOTTE  FBIKCESSE  de  OALLES 

Take  eight  Carlsbad  wafers  of  oblong  shape.  Stand  them  on 
end  around  the  outside  of  a  cylindrical  mold,  and  carefully  stick 
the  edges  together  with  sugar  cooked  to  the  crack,  or  with 
royal  icing  (see  page  483).  Make  the  octagon  as  regular  as 
possible.  When  the  edges  are  well  set  place  it  on  a  founda- 
tion either  of  puff-paste  or  of  layer  cake  cut  to  the  shape  of  the 
form.  Ornament  it  with  dots  of  royal  icing  pressed  through  a 
pastry-bag  and  tube  onto  the  edges.  Just  before  serving  fill 
the  center  with  whipped  cream,  or  with  czarina  cream,  or  with 
whipped  jelly  and  fruits,  or  whipped  jelly  and  meringue,  or 
with  any  of  the  mousses.  The  wafers  quickly  loose  their  crisp- 
aess,  so  the  form  must  not  be  filled  until  the  moment  of  serving. 

A  filling  may  also  be  made  for  this  Charlotte  of  any  of  the 
C!harlotte  Russe  mixtures,  molding  them  in  a  form  smaller  than 
the  form  of  wafers,  and  when  unmolded  the  ornamental  form 
placed  over  it,  and  whipped  cream  piled  on  top.  In  this  way 
the  wafers  will  not  be  softened. 

STEAWBEEBT  CHARLOTTE 

Cut  large  firm  strawbemes  in  two  lengthwise;  dip  them 
in  liquid  gelatine,  and  line  a  plain  mold,  placing  the  flat  side 


CHARLOTTK  RITSSH   WITH   STIilPS  OF  CAKE  ICED  IN  TWO  COLORS.      (SEE  PAGE  404.) 


CHARLOTTE  RUSSE   MADE  OF  ONE  LAYER  OF  CAKE— TOP  DECORATED  WITH  DOTS 

OP  ICING. 


CHARLOTTE  PKINCESSE  DE  GALLE8.      (SEE  PAGE  406.) 


DESSERTS  407 

against  tlie  mold.  If  the  mold  is  on  ice  the  jelly  will  harden 
at  once,  and  hold  the  berries  in  place.  FiU  the  center  with 
Charlotte  filling  No.  1,  or  with  Bavarian  cream,  or  with  pain  de 
fraises. 

GATEATT  ST.   HONOBE 

This  is  a  combination  of  puff-paste,  cream  cakes,  glace  fruits, 
and  whipped  cream.  It  is  said  to  be  the  triumph  of  the  chef's 
art,  yet  one  need  not  fear  to  undertake  it  when  one  has  learned 
to  make  good  pastry  and  to  boil  sugar.  It  is  an  ornamental, 
delicious  dessert,  and  one  that  can  be  presented  on  the 
most  formal  occasions.  First:  Roll  thin  a  very  short  or  a  puff- 
paste,  so  when  baked  it  will  be  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick 
only.  Cut  it  the  size  of  a  layer-cake  tin;  place  it  on  a  damp- 
ened baking-tin,  and  prick  it  with  a  fork  in  several  places. 
Second:  make  a  cream-cake  batter  (see  page  474);  put  the 
batter  in  a  pastry-bag  with  half  inch  tube,  and  press  out  onto 
and  around  the  edge  of  the  paste  a  ring  of  the  batter.  With 
the  rest  of  the  batter  make  a  number  of  small  cakes  (two  dozen), 
forming  them  with  the  tube  into  balls  one  half  inch  in  diame- 
ter. Brush  the  ring  and  balls  with  egg,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven;  then  fill  them  with  St.  Honors  cream  (see  below).  Third: 
boil  a  cupful  of  sugar  to  the  crack,  and  glac6  some  orange  sec- 
tions and  some  white  grapes  (see  glac6  fruits,  page  516).  Fourth : 
with  some  of  the  sugar  used  for  the  fruits  stick  the  small 
cream  cakes  onto  the  ring,  making  an  even  border;  on  top  of 
each  cake  stick  a  grape,  and  between  them  a  section  of  orange. 
Place  a  candied  cherry  on  each  piece  of  orange,  and  one  below 
it,  if  there  is  room.  Other  candied  fruits  and  angelica  may  be 
used  also,  if  desired,  and  arranged  in  any  way  to  suit  the  fancy. 
Fifth :  make  a  St.  Honore  cream  as  follows :  scald  one  cupful 
of  milk  in  a  dorble  boiler ;  turn  it  slowly  onto  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs,  which  have  been  well  beaten  with  one  and  one  half  table- 
spoonfuls  of  corn-starch  and  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 
Return  to  the  fire  until  it  begins  to  thicken  or  coats  the  spoon, 
then  remove,  and  flavor  with  one  teaspoonful  each  of  vanilla 
and  noyau,  and  stir  in  lightly  the  whites  of  eight  eggs  beaten 
very  stiff.     Cook  it  one  minute  to  set  the  whites,  beating  all  the 


408 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


time.    When  cold,  turn  it  into  the  g&teau.    "Whipped  cream 
may  or  may  not  be  piled  on  top  of  the  St.  Honor^  cream. 

CBOaUEKBOUCHE  OF  MAGABOOHS 

Oil  the  outside  of  a  dome-shaped  mold.  Beginning  at  the 
bottom,  cover  it  with  macaroons,  sticking  the  edges  of  the 
macaroons  together  with  sugar  boUed  to  the  crack,  or  with 
royal  icing  (see  page  483).  Just  before  serving  turn  it  off  the 
mold,  and  place  it  over  a  form  of  plain  or  fruit  Bavarian  cream, 
which  has  been  hardened  in  a  smaller  mold  of  the  same  shape. 
There  should  be  an  inch  or  more  of  space  between  the  two,  the 
outer  one  covering  the  other  like  a  cage. 

A  croquenbouche  can  also  be  made  of  little  cakes  cut  from  a 
layer  cake  with  a  small  biscuit-cutter,  and  iced  in  two  colors  with 
royal  icing,  or  with  glac§  oranges,  or  with  chestnuts.  The  lat- 
ter are  difficult  to  make,  but  are  very  good  with  ice-creams. 


General 
direotiona. 


Tempera- 
ture. 


Texture. 


WHIPPED  CEEAM 

One  half  pint  of  double  or  very  rich  cream  costs 
ten  cents,  and  may  be  diluted  one  half,  giving  a  pint 
of  cream  as  called  for  in  the  receipts.  Cream  should 
be  placed  on  the  ice  for  several  hours  before  it  is 
whipped.  It  is  essential  to  have  it  very  cold,  other- 
wise it  will  not  whip  well;  and  also,  if  rich  cream,  it 
will  fonn  particles  of  butter.  If  not  lower  than  60° 
it  will  aU  go  to  butter.  Place  the  bowl  containing  the 
cream  in  a  larger  bowl  containing  cracked  ice,  and 
with  a  cream  churn,  Dover  beater,  or  wire  whip,  which- 
ever is  convenient,  whip  it  to  a  stiff  froth;  continue 
to  whip  until  it  aU  becomes  inflated.  If  the  cream  is 
cold  it  will  take  but  a  few  minutes.  This  gives  a 
firm,  fine-grained  cream,  which  is  used  for  Bavarians, 
mousses,  ice-creams,  etc.  When  a  hghter  and  more 
frothy  cream,  called  syUabub,  is  wanted  for  whips  and 
sauces,  dilute  the  cream  more,  and  remove  the  froth 


DESSERTS  409 

from  the  top  of  the  cream  as  it  rises  while  being 
whipped,  and  place  it  on  a  fine  sieve  over  a  bowl  to 
drain.     That  which  drips  through  the  sieve  replace 
in  the  whipping-bowl  to  be  again  beaten.     The  flavor- 
ing and  sweetening  are  added  after  it  is  whipped  for     Time  for 
the  first  method;  but  it  is  better  to  add  it  before  for     **^^- 
the  latter,  as  mixing  breaks  down  the  froth.  "Whipped 
cream,  like  beaten  whites  of  eggs,  added  to  gelatine  or 
custard  mixtures,  gives  them  a  sponge-like  texture. 
It  should  be  drained,  'and  added  only  when  the  mix-    Draining, 
tui'es  are  cold  and  ready  to  be  molded  or  frozen.    It 
is  then  cut  in  lightly,  not  stirred.     Some  judgment 
must  be  used  about  diluting  the  cream,  and  it  must 
stand  several  hours  on  ice  to  insure  success. 

Cream  wliipped  by  the  first  method  is  the  one 
recommended  for  all  purposes.  When  it  is  added  to 
other  things,  any  liquid  cream  that  may  have  dripped 
to  the  bottom  of  the  bowl  should  not  be  put  in. 

DESSERTS   OF  WHIPPED  CREAM 

Preserves  and  jams  served  with  whipped  cream 
make  an  excellent  dessert, 

WHIPS 

Flavor  a  pint  of  cream  with  a  dessertspoonful  of  maraschino, 
kirsch,  or  rum,  or  with  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  essence  of  vanilla,  rose,  or 
almonds,  or  flavor  it  with  black  coffee.  Color  it  pink,  or  green, 
or  leave  it  white.  Sweeten  with  three  scant  tablespoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar.  Whip  it  to  a  stiff  froth  and  drain.  Let  it 
stand  on  ice  until  ready  to  use ;  then  with  a  spoon  pile  it  high 
on  a  glass  dish.  If  the  cream  is  white  sprinkle  it  with  colored 
pink  and  green  sugar  mixed  (see  page  393).  Or,  skim  off  the 
foam  which  first  rises,  placing  several  spoonfuls  of  it  on  a 
sieve  to  drain.  Color  the  rest  a  delicate  pink,  and  whip  it 
imtil  it  all  becomes  firm  and  of  fine  grain.  Turn  this  into  a 
glass  dish,  and  with  a  spoon  place  the  white  froth  upon  it. 


410  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

GZABINA  CBEAM 

1  pint  of  cream.  *    '        ^  cupful  of  blanched  almonds. 
4  box  of  gelatine.  1  teaspoonf  ul  of  vanilla. 

J  cupful  of  sugar.  J  teaspoonful  of  rosewater. 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry. 

Put  a  bowl  containing  the  cream  on  ice;  whip  it  to  a  stiff 
froth;  add  slowly  the  sugar,  then  the  gelatine  (which  has  first 
been  soaked  an  hour  in  one  quarter  cupful  of  cold  water,  and 
then  dissolved  by  placing  the  cup  in  hot  water),  beating  all 
the  time.  Add  the  vanilla  and  rosewater,  and  enough  green 
coloring  (see  page  392)  to  give  it  a  delicate  color.  When  it 
begins  to  stiffen  add  the  sherry,  and  lastly  the  almonds  chopped 
fine.  When  the  cream  is  quite  firm  put  it  in  round  paper 
boxes,  and  sprinkle  over  the  top  a  little  colored  sugar,  or 
chopped  pistachio  nuts  and  granulated  sugar  mixed.  Let  it 
stand  an  hour  or  more  on  ice  before  serving. 

CHESTNUT  PUE]EE  WITH  CREAM 

Boil  a  pound  of  shelled  English  chestnuts  a  few  minutes; 
then  drain,  and  remove  the  skins.  Boil  them  again  until  ten- 
der; drain,  and  mash  them  through  a  pur^e  sieve;  sweeten, 
flavor  with  vanilla,  and  moisten  them  with  a  little  cream.  Put 
the  pur6e  in  a  saucepan,  and  stir  over  a  slow  heat  until  dry; 
then  press  it  through  a  colander  or  potato-press  onto  the  dish  in 
which  it  is  to  be  served.  Form  it  into  a  circle,  using  care  not 
to  destroy  the  light  and  vermiceUi-like  form  the  colander  has 
given  it.     Serve  whipped  cream  in  the  center  of  the  ring. 

CHESTNUTS  WITH  CREAM 

After  removing  the  shells  and  skins  from  some  English 
chestnuts,  boil  them  until  tender  in  water,  then  in  sugar  and 
water,  until  clear.  Let  them  lie  in  the  syrup  until  cold;  then 
drain,  and  pile  them  on  a  dish.  Boil  the  syrup  down  to  a  thick 
consistency,  and  pour  it  over  the  nuts.  Serve  cold  with 
whipped  cream. 


CHARLOTTE  PRINCESSE  DE  6AIXES  MADE  OF  ROLLED  GAUPFRES.      (SEE  PAGE40C.) 


gATEAU  ST.  HONORS.      (SEE  PAGE  407.) 


PINK  JELLY  GARNISHED  WITH   PINK  CARNATIONS. 


DESSERTS  411 

USES  FOR  STALE  CAKE 

PINE  CONES 

With  a  biscuit-cutter,  cut  slices  of  stale  cake  or  bread  into 
circles.  Moisten  them  with  sherry,  maraschino,  or  merely  with  a 
little  hot  water.  Chop  some  fresh  or  canned  pineapple  into  small 
pieces,  and  pile  it  on  the  cakes.  "With  a  knife  press  each  one  into 
the  form  of  a  cone  or  small  pyramid.  Place  them  in  a  shallow  tin 
close  together^  but  not  touching.  Put  the  pineapple  liquor  into 
a  saucepan,  and  thicken  it  with  arrowroot  (which  has  first  been 
wet  with  water),  using  a  teaspoonful  to  a  cupful  of  liquor. 
Cook  until  the  arrowroot  becomes  clear  and  begins  to  stiffen,- 
then  pour  it  slowly  over  the  cones.  It  will  cover  them  with  a 
jelly.  When  cold,  trim  them  carefully  so  the  base  of  each  one 
wiU  be  round,  and  lift  them  carefully  from  the  tin. 


CAKE  WITH  CUSTARD 

Spread  slices  of  stale  cake  or  cottage  pudding  with  jam; 
place  them  in  a  glass  dish,  and  cover  with  boiled  custard;  or 
first  moisten  the  cake  with  sherry,  then  cover  with  custard. 


TBIFLE  (Esther) 

Slice  in  two  six  square  sponge  cakes  (layer  cake  cut  in 
squares  will  do),  spread  with  jam  or  jeUy  (a  tart  jelly  is  best), 
and  put  them  together  like  sandwiches.  Moisten  them  in  a 
mixture  of  one  third  brandy  and  two  thirds  sherry.  Put  them 
in  a  glass  dish,  and  pour  over  them  a  custard  made  of  one  pint 
of  milk,  three  eggs,  and  three  tablespoonf uls  of  sugar ;  put  to- 
gether as  directed  for  boiled  custard  No.  2  (page  395).  Blanch 
and  cut  in  fine  strips  one  half  cupful  of  almonds,  and  stick 
them  into  the  top  cakes  standing  upright.  Cover  all  with 
a  half  pint  of  whipped  cream,  and  sprinkle  the  top  with  hun- 
dreds and  thousands  (see  page  393).  or  with  colored  sugar  (see 
page  393), 


412 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


BANANA  TRIFLE  (Uartlia) 


J  cupful  of  milk. 

J  cupful  of  water. 

1  heaping  teaspoonf  ul  of 

cornstarch. 
1  even  teaspoonful  of  sugar. 


J  saltspoonf  ul  of  salt. 
2  bananas. 
6  lady-fingers. 

^  pint  of  cream,  or  the  whipped 
white  of  one  egg. 

Slice  the  bananas,  and  lay  them  in  a  glass  dish  in  alternate 
layers  with  four  lady-fingers  split  in  two.  Put  the  milk  and 
water  in  a  saucepan;  add  the  sugar,  salt,  and  the  corn-starch  di- 
luted in  a  little  cold  water.  When  it  has  thickened  pour  it 
over  the  bananas,  and  let  it  stand  until  cold  and  ready  to  serve; 
then  cover  the  top  with  whipped  cream,  or  if  that  is  not  con- 
venient use  the  whipped  white  of  one  egg  sweetened  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  sugar.  Split  and  break  in  two  the  remaining 
lady-fingers,  and  place  them  upright  around  the  edge. 


Points  to 

observe  in 

making 

jellies. 


SWEET  JELLIES 

With  different  flavors,  colors,  and  combinations,  a 
great  variety  of  attractive  desserts  can  be  made  with 
gelatine.  They  are  inexpensive,  require  no  skill,  and 
the  work  is  accomplished  in  a  very  few  minutes. 

Points  to  Observe  in  Making  Jellies. — Have  jellies 
perfectly  transparent  and  brilliant.  Use  the  right 
proportions,  so  the  jelly  will  hold  its  form,  but  not  be 
too  solid.  Mold  the  jelly  carefuUy. 
BiBsolTing.  Dissolving. — Gelatine  should  be  soaked  in  cold 
water  in  a  cold  place  (one  cupful  of  water  to  a  box 
of  gelatine)  for  one  or  more  hours ;  then  dissolved  in 
a  little  hot  water,  or  added  to  the  hot  mixture.  Treated 
in  this  way  it  will  dissolve  quickly,  and  be  free  from 
taste  or  smell.  If  soaked  in  warm  water  in  a  warm 
place  it  wiU  have  a  disagreeable  taste  and  odor, 
requiring  much  flavoring  to  overcome. 

It  does  not  need  cooking.    If  the  jeUy  is  not  suflfi- 


JELLIES  413 

eiently  firm,  add  more  gelatine;  boiling  down  wiU 
not  effect  the  purpose. 

Proportions. —  Observe  the  quantity  of  gelatine  Propor- 
stated  on  the  box,  as  some  brands  do  not  contaia  two  ^^"^' 
ounces.  Two  ounces  will  take  one  and  three  quarter 
quarts  of  liquid,  including  that  used  for  soaking  and 
flavoring.  The  directions  given  on  the  boxes  usually 
give  the  proportion  of  one  ounce  to  a  quart  of  liquid, 
but  this  will  not  insure  a  jeUy  which  will  stand  firm, 
and  it  is  safer  to  use  less  liquid. 

For  this  amount  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  will  give 
about  the  right  sweetening,  but  must  be  modified  to 
suit  the  flavoring  used.  In  summer,  or  if  the  jelly 
will  have  to  stand  any  length  of  time  after  it  is  un- 
molded,  it  is  better  to  use  but  one  and  one  haK 
quarts  of  liquid  to  two  ounces  of  gelatine. 

Clarifying. — Most  of  the  brands  of  gelatine  are  al-  To  dear 
ready  clarified,  and  need  only  to  be  passed  through  a  ^*  ^* 
sieve  to  remove  the  lemon-zest  and  any  particles  of 
gelatine  that  may  not  have  dissolved.  Any  fruit  juices 
used  should  be  passed  through  a  filter-paper  (see  be- 
low) before  being  added  to  the  jeUy :  straining  the 
jeUy  once  or  twice  thi'ough  a  felt  or  flannel  wiU  usu- 
ally give  perfectly  limpid  and  beautiful  jelly.  When, 
however,  they  need  to  be  clarified,  or  a  particularly  bril- 
liant jelly  is  required,  stir  into  the  mixture  when  it  is 
cool  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  well  broken  but  not  too 
much  frothed ;  add  also  the  shells ;  stir  it  over  the  fire 
until  it  boils ;  let  it  simmer  a  few  minutes  and  strain 
it,  twice  if  necessary,  through  a  bag,  without  pres- 
sure, A  piece  of  fiannel  laid  over  a  sieve  or  strainer 
may  be  substituted  for  a  bag  if  more  convenient. 

Molding  for  Fancy  Jellies. — Place  the  mold  in  a    Molding 
bowl  containing  cracked  ice ;  the  j  elly  will  then  quickly    '05 ^^y 
harden,  and  the  process  of  fancy  molding  not  be  te- 
dious. Have  the  mold  perfectly  even,  so  the  jelly  will 


414 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


To  mold 
withfroit 
or  flowers. 


Double 
molding. 


nnmolding. 
Serving. 


stand  firm  and  straight  when  unmolded ;  also,  do  not 
move  the  mold  while  filling,  as  jarring  or  shaking  is 
likely  to  separate  the  layers  and  cause  them  to  fall 
apart.  Have  the  jelly  mixture  cold,  but  not  ready  to 
set,  or  it  wiU  take  in  bubbles  of  air  and  cloud  the 
jelly.  Pour  in  one  layer  at  a  time  and  let  it  harden 
before  adding  the  next.  Do  not,  however,  let  it  be- 
come too  firm  or  gather  moisture,  or  it  will  not  unite, 
and  also  will  be  clouded.   (See  picture  facing  page  386.) 

To  suspend  a  bunch  of  grapes  in  the  center  of  a 
form,  first  pour  into  the  mold  a  layer  of  jelly  one  half 
inch  deep ;  let  it  harden ;  then  place  on  it,  and  ar- 
range in  good  shape  the  bunch  of  grapes,  leaving  one 
half  inch  or  more  space  around  the  sides;  pour  in 
another  half  inch  of  jelly,  but  not  enough  to  float 
the  grapes ;  when  that  has  set,  cut  with  scissors  the 
grape  stem  in  many  places,  so  it  will  fall  apart  when 
served ;  then  fill  the  mold  with  jelly.  Any  fruits,  or 
flowers,  can  be  put  in  in  the  same  way,  care  being 
used  to  add  at  fii'st  only  just  enough  jelly  to  fix  the 
ornament ;  otherwise  it  will  float  out  of  place.  Plain 
jellies  are  more  transparent  when  molded  in  forms 
having  a  cylindrical  tube  in  the  center,  Hke  cake-tins. 
The  space  left  can  be  filled  with  whipped  cream  or 
with  fruits,  which  gives  a  pretty  effect,  (See  picture.) 

Double  Molding  (see  page  325)  can  be  used  with 
good  effect  in  sweet  jellies  in  combination  with 
whipped  jelly,  Bavarian  creams,  fruit  jellies,  etc. 

Unmolding. — See  page  324. 

Serving. — Jellies  are  improved  by  serving  with  them 
whipped  cream,  custard,  or  puree  of  fruits.  It  may 
be  poured  around,  not  over,  the  jelly  on  the  same 
dish.  When  a  sauce  is  not  used,  have  a  lace  paper 
under  the  jelly.  Jelly  is  more  attractive  when  served 
on  a  flat  glass  dish. 

For  fruit  jellies  it  is  well  to  use  a  china  mold,  or 


JELLIES  415 

else  coat  the  tin  one  with  clear  jeUy  (see  page  323),      Fruit 
as  tin  is  likely  to  discolor  it.  ^     "' 

To  Clarify  Fruit  Juices.— Fass  the  fruit  juice  to  clarify 
through  filter-paper  laid  in  a  funnel.  If  filter-paper  fruitjniceB. 
is  not  at  hand,  soak  unsized  paper  to  a  pulp.  Wash 
it  in  several  waters ;  press  it  dry ;  and  spread  it  on  a 
small  sieve  or  in  a  funnel,  and  drain  the  juice  through 
it.  If  orange,  lemon,  or  other  fruit  juices  are  fii'st 
clarified,  it  will  often  obviate  the  necessity  of  straining 
the  jelly.    (See  illustration  facing  page  388.) 

WINE  JELLY 

J  box,  or  1  ounce,  of  gelatine.      1  cupful  of  sugar. 
J  cupful  of  cold  water.  Juice  of  1  lemon. 

2  cupfuls  of  boiling  water.  f  cupful  of  sherry,  or 

3  parts  sherry,  1  part  brandy. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  one  half  cupful  of  cold  water  for  one 
hour  or  more.  Put  the  boiling  water,  the  sugar,  and  a  few 
thin  slices  of  lemon-peel  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire.  When  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  add  the  soaked  gelatine,  and  stir  until  that 
also  is  dissolved ;  then  remove,  and  when  it  is  partly  cooled  add 
the  lemon-juice  and  the  wine.  Strain  it  through  a  felt  or  flan- 
nel, and  turn  it  into  the  mold.  If  the  jeUy  has  to  be  clarified 
do  it  before  adding  the  wine.  Any  wine  or  liqueur  can  be  used 
for  flavoring.     This  wiU  make  one  quart  of  jelly. 

LEMON  JELLT 

^  box,  or  1  ounce,  of  gelatine.      1  cupful  of  sugar. 
^  cupful  of  cold  water.  Juice  of  3  lemons,  filtered. 

2  cupfuls  of  boiling  water.  Thin  slices  of  lemon-rind. 

Put  together  as  directed  for  wine  jeUy. 

ORANGE  JELLT 

i  box,  or  1  ounce,  of  gelatine.      Juice  of  1  lemon. 
^  cupful  of  cold  water.  1  cupful  of  sugar. 

1  cupful  of  boiling  water.  2  cupfuls  of  orange-juice, 

filtered. 


416  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Combine  the  same  as  directed  for  wine  jelly. 

A  stronger  flavor  and  color  of  orange  can  be  obtained  by  soak- 
ing with  the  gelatine  the  grated  yellow  rind  of  one  or  two 
bright-skinned  oranges.  In  this  case  the  juice  need  not  be  fil- 
tered, for  the  mixture  will  have  to  be  passed  through  flannel. 
Putting  it  through  several  times  gives  a  clearer  and  more  bril- 
liant jelly. 

COFFEE  JELLY 

Use  the  receipt  given  for  wine  jelly,  using  three  quarters  of  a 
cupful  of  strong  filtered  coffee  instead  of  wine,  and  omitting  the 
lemon ;  mold  in  a  ring,  and  fill  the  center  with  whipped  cream ; 
or,  if  this  is  not  convenient,  use  any  mold,  and  serve  with  it 
sweetened  milk. 

CHAMPAGNE  JELLT 

J  box  of  Cox's  gelatine  soaked    1  cupful  of  sugar. 

in  ^  cupful  of  cold  water.         1  teaspoonf ul  of  lemon- 
1  cupful  of  boiling  water.  juice,  filtered. 

1  cupful  of  champagne. 
Combine  the  same  as  wine  jelly,  and  do  not  add  the  cham- 
pagne until  the  jelly  is  cold.     This  will  give  one  and  a  half 
pints  of  jelly.    It  is  very  clear  and  transparent,  and  well  suited 
to  fancy  molding. 

CHAMPAGNE  JELLY  WITH  FLOWERS 

Place  on  ice  a  broad  round  mold  (a  basin  will  serve  the  pur- 
pose) ;  arrange,  on  a  very  thin  layer  of  jelly,  some  pink  rose  pet- 
als in  rosette  form,  or  to  simulate  an  open  rose;  add  carefully 
a  very  little  jelly  with  a  spoon  to  set  the  decoration ;  when  it 
has  hardened,  add  a  veiy  little  more,  and  so  continue  to  do  un- 
til the  petals  are  haK  enveloped ;  then  place  in  right  position 
some  angelica  cut  in  diamond  shaped  pieces  to  simulate  leaves ; 
add  a  little  jelly  at  a  time  until  the  mold  is  full.  The  petals 
will  be  bent  out  of  shape  if  the  jelly  is  not  added  very  slowly. 
When  unmolded  place  around  it  some  green  rose-leaves  and  a 


JELLY  WITH  A  ROSE  MOLDED  IN  IT  AND  GARNISHED  WITH  ROSES.    (SEE  PAGE  414.) 


JELLY   WITH   A  BUNCH  OF  GRAPES  MOLDED  IN  IT.     (SEE  PAGE  414.) 


JELLIES  417 

few  loose  pink  rose-petals.  A  little  rose-water  or  essence  should 
be  used  with  the  champagne  to  flavor  the  jelly.  Violets  and  an- 
gelica can  be  used  in  the  same  way,  or  a  spray  of  roses  with 
leaves  can  be  put  in  a  deeper  mold,  and  when  secured  in  posi- 
tion the  stems  cut  the  same  as  directed  for  molding  grapes. 
When  flowers  are  used  they  must  be  very  fresh. 

WHIPPED  JELLY  OR  SNOW  PUDDING 

Make  a  wine  or  lemon  jelly  (page  415).  Place  it  in  a  bowl 
on  ice ;  when  it  is  cold,  but  before  it  begins  to  harden,  beat  it 
with  a  Dover  beater  until  it  becomes  white  and  a  mass  of  froth. 
Turn  it  into  a  mold  to  harden.  Serve  with  it  a  sauce  made  of 
boiled  custard,  or  any  preserve  that  will  go  well  with  the  flavor- 
ing, or  a  compote  of  orange  or  any  fruit. 

JELLIES  WITH  FRUITS  (Macedoine) 

Berries  or  any  fresh  fruits,  peeled  and  quartered,  may  be 
placed  in  layers,  or  irregularly  through  the  entire  mold,  or  a 
mixture  of  fruits  may  be  used  in  the  same  way,  when  it  is  called 
a  mac6doiue.  The  jelly  may  be  clear  or  whipped.  Strawber- 
ries, raspberries,  currants  (red  and  white),  cherries,  peaches, 
plums,  pears,  apricots,  and  pineapples  are  suitable  for  this  use. 
Preserved  or  canned  fruits  well  drained  may  also  be  used. 
Candied  fruits  are  especially  good,  but  should  be  cut  into  pieces, 
and  softened  in  maraschino.  Jellies  to  be  used  with  fruits  are 
best  flavored  with  kirsch  or  maraschino. 

RUSSL^N  JELLIES 

For  these  double  molds  are  used  (see  page  386). 

No.  1.  Make  the  outside  layer  of  any  transparent  jelly.  When 
hard  remove  the  inner  mold  and  fill  the  space  with  the  same 
jelly  whipped  until  foamy.  No.  2.  The  outside  a  transparent 
jelly,  the  inside  one  of  different  flavor  and  color,  such  as  cham- 
pagne and  maraschino  colored  pink,  orange  and  strawberry, 
lemon  and  coffee.    No.  3.  The  outside  champagne  jelly,  the  in- 

27 


4is  i:he  century  cook  book 

side  whipped  jelly  mixed  with  macedoine  of  fruits.  No.  4.  The 
outside  wine  or  maraschino  jelly,  the  fiUing  pain  de  f raises 
(see  page  419).  No.  5.  The  outside  fruits  in  clear  jelly,  the  in- 
side Bavarian  cream.  No.  6.  Maraschino  jelly,  center  Bavarian 
cream  mixed  with  crushed  peaches  or  with  apricot  jam. 

RIBBON  JELLT 

Make  a  plain  jelly ;  divide  it  into  three  parts ;  flavor  one  with 
maraschino;  the  second  with  strawberry-juice,  and  deepen  the 
color  with  a  little  carmine  (see  page  392) ;  the  third  with  orange, 
noyau,  or  any  other  flavor,  and  whip  it  until  foamy.  Put  it  into 
mold  in  layers,  beginning  with  the  lightest. 

ITALIAN  JELLY 

Make  a  plain  blanc-mange  (see  page  399).  Let  it  set  in  a 
layer  one  half  inch  thick ;  cut  it  into  small  circles,  diamonds,  or 
fancy  shapes  with  cutters.  Arrange  these  pieces  in  some  de- 
sign around  or  inside  a  mold  of  transparent  jelly  (see  molding 
jeUies,  page  324).  The  blanc-mange  may  be  colored  pink, 
green,  or  yellow,  and  gives  a  very  pretty  effect. 

DANTZIC  JELLY 

This  is  a  very  clear,  ornamental  jelly,  the  gold-leaf  giving 
it  the  appearance  of  Venetian  glass,  and  is  good  in  individual 
molds  to  serve  with  ices.  Use  the  receipt  for  wine  jelly,  omit- 
ting the  wine  and  making  the  amount  of  liquid  right  by  using 
more  water ;  clarify  or  strain  it  several  times  to  make  it  very 
brilliant;  when  it  is  cold  add  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  eau 
de  vie  de  Dantzic  (see  page  390)  and  brandy. 

WHAT  TO  DO  WITH  JELLY  LEFT  OVER 

Add  a  little  lemon-juice,  and  beat  the  jelly  until  it  becomes 
entirely  white,  which  wiU  take  some  time ;  turn  it  again  into  a 
mold  to  set.  If  there  is  not  enough  jelly  for  this,  cut  the  jelly 
into  fine  dice  with  a  knife  as  directed  for  cutting  aspic  on  page 
323,  and  beat  into  it  lightly  an  equal  quantity  of  meringue. 
This  should  be  prepared  in  a  cold  place. 


JELLIES  419 

PAINS  AUX  FRUITS,   OR  JELLIED  FRUITS 

PAIN  DE  FRAISES  (STRAWBERRIES) 

Crusli  the  berries  to  a  pulp  ;  sweeten  to  taste,  and  add  a  lit- 
tle flavoring,  either  orange  and  lemon  juice,  maraschino  or  Cu- 
rasao. To  a  pint  of  the  pulp  add  a  half  box,  or  one  ounce,  of  Coop- 
er's gelatine,  which  has  soaked  an  hour  in  one  haK  cupful  of 
cold  water,  and  then  been  dissolved  in  one  half  cupful  of  hot 
water.  Stir  until  it  begins  to  set ;  then  turn  it  into  a  china  mold  to 
harden.  The  mold  may  be  ornamented  with  blanched  almonds 
split  in  two,  and  arranged  in  star  shapes.  When  a  tin  mold  is 
used  for  fruits,  it  is  well  to  coat  it  first  with  plain  jelly  (see 
page  323),  as  tin  sometimes  discolors  fruit  juices.  A  little 
carmine  may  be  used  to  heighten  the  color  of  red  fruits.  Rasp- 
berries, cherries,  peaches,  apricots,  plums,  pineapples,  or  oranges 
can  be  used  in  the  same  way.  This  gives  a  very  good  dessert 
with  little  trouble.     Serve  with  cream. 

SUPREME   OF  STRAWBERRIES 

Make  a  pain  de  fraises ;  place  it  on  the  outside  of  a  double 
mold  (see  page  325),  and  fill  the  center  space  with  whole  ber- 
ries, or  with  any  other  fruit  or  mixture  of  fruits,  such  as  white 
grapes  and  oranges,  etc.    Serve  it  very  cold  mth  whipped  cream. 

PAIN  DE   RIZ  AUX  FRUITS 

(RICE  WITH  fruits) 

Make  a  rice  Bavarian  (see  page  402) ;  mix  with  it  a  few 
chopped  blanched  almonds.  Put  it  in  a  cylindrical  mold  in 
layers  with  pain  de  fraises  (strawberries)  or  raspberries,  keep- 
ing the  red  layer  thinner  than  the  white  one ;  or  mold  it  in  a 
double  mold,  using  the  jellied  fruit  for  the  center  or  for  the 
outside. 

PAIN  DE  RIZ  A  LA  PRINCESSE 

Decorate  a  mold  with  candied  cherries  and  angelica ;  line  it 
with  rice  Bavarian,  and  fill  the  center  with  fresh  or  canned 
pineapple  chopped  and  jeUied.  The  jelly  may  be  clear  or 
whipped  or  mixed  with  whipped  cream. 


420  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

FAIN  D'OBANGES 

(oranges) 

Take  off  the  peel  and  divide  into  sections  eight  to  ten  oranges; 
mn  a  knife  between  the  skin  and  pulp  and  remove  it  carefnlly. 
Place  the  bare  but  unbroken  pulp  on  a  sieve  to  drain;  roll 
each  piece  in  powdered  sugar,  and  lay  them  overlapping  in  a 
ring  around  a  cylindrical  mold ;  fix  and  cover  them  with  clear 
jelly  flavored  with  kirsch  or  maraschino.  Arrange  them  in 
the  same  way  around  the  outside  of  a  double  mold.  Fill  the  cen- 
ter with  orange  Bavarian,  using  the  juice  drained  from  the 
pieces  to  flavor  the  Bavarian.  Serve  it  with  orange  quarter 
cakes  (see  page  478)  around  the  dish. 

PADT  DE  FEGHES 

^peaches) 

No.  1.  Make  a  jeUy  of  peaches  the  same  as  rule  given  above 
for  strawberries;  color  it  with  a  little  carmine,  giving  it  a 
delicate  pink  shade ;  garnish  the  mold  with  blanched  almonds 
and  angelica,  and  fiU  it  with  the  jellied  peach-pulp.  No.  2. 
Cut  peaches  in  quarters  or  halves,  and  arrange  them  in  a  double 
mold  with  blanched  almonds  to  look  like  the  pits ;  fill  the  cen- 
ter with  peach  Bavarian. 

PADT  DE  MAEBONS 

(chestnuts) 

Make  a  pur6e  of  boiled  chestnuts ;  sweeten  and  flavor  with 
vanilla ;  add  to  one  pint  of  puree  one  ounce  of  dissolved  gela- 
tine; when  beginning  to  set  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream ;  cover  a  mold  with  thin  coating  of  jelly  (see  page  323), 
and  fill  outside  of  double  mold  with  very  brown  chocolate  Ba- 
varian (see  page  401) ;   fill  the  center  with  the  jellied  chestnuts. 


General 


Chaptee  XIX 

HOT  DESSERTS 

SOUFFLES 

The  preparation  of  souffles  is  exceedingly  simple, 
the  only  difficulty  being  in  serving  them  soon  enough, 
as  they  fall  very  quickly  when  removed  from  the  heat. 
They  must  go  directly  from  the  oven  to  the  table,  and 
if  the  dining-room  is  far  removed  from  the  kitchen  remarks, 
the  souffle  should  be  covered  with  a  hot  pan  until  it 
reaches  the  door.  The  plain  omelet  souffle  is  the  most 
difficult.  Those  made  with  a  cooked  foundation  do 
not  fall  as  quickly,  but  they  also  must  be  served  at 
once.  In  order  to  insure  the  condition  upon  which 
the  whole  success  of  the  dish  depends,  it  is  better  to 
keep  the  table  waiting,  rather  than  suffer  the  result 
of  the  omelet  being  cooked  too  soon.  Have  every- 
thing ready  before  beginning  to  make  a  souffle,  and 
see  that  the  oven  is  right.  In  adding  the  beaten 
whites  "  fold "  them  in,  that  is,  lift  the  mixture  from 
the  bottom,  and  use  care  not  to  break  it  down  by  too 
much  mixing. 


421 


422  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

OMELET  SOUiTLE 

Whites  of  6  eggs.  3  rounded  tablespoonfuls  of 

Yolks  of  3  eggs.  powdered  sugar,  sifted. 

Grated  zest  of  ^  lemon.         1  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juiee. 

Whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  with  a  pinch  of  salt  added  to 
them,  to  a  very  dry  stiff  froth.  Beat  to  a  cream  the  yolks  and 
the  sugar,  then  add  the  iemon.  Fold  in  the  beaten  whites 
lightly  (do  not  stir)  and  turn  the  mixture  into  a  slightly  oiled 
pudding-dish.  K  preferred,  turn  a  part  of  it  onto  a  flat  dish,  and 
with  a  knife  shape  it  into  a  mound  with  a  depression  in  the  center. 
Put  the  rest  into  a  pastry-bag,  and  press  it  out  through  a  large 
tube,  into  lines  and  dots  over  the  mound ;  sprinkle  it  with  sugar 
and  bake  it  in  a  very  hot  oven  eight  to  ten  minutes.  Serve  at 
once  in  the  same  dish  in  which  it  is  baked  (see  souffles  above). 
The  flavor  may  be  vanilla,  or  orange  if  preferred. 

VANILLA  SOUFFLE 

1  cupful  of  milk.  2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.      J  teaspoonf ul  of  salt. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.     1  teaspoonf  ul  of  vanilla. 

4  eggs. 

Put  the  milk  into  a  double  boiler  with  the  salt ;  when  it  is 
scalded  add  the  butter  and  flour,  which  have  been  rubbed  to- 
gether. Stir  for  ten  minutes  to  cook  the  flour  and  form  a 
smooth  paste  j  then  turn  it  onto  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  which, 
with  the  sugar  added,  have  been  beaten  to  a  cream.  Mix  thor- 
oughly, flavor,  and  set  away  to  cool ;  rub  a  little  butter  over 
the  top,  so  that  no  crust  wUl  form.  Just  before  time  to  serve, 
fold  into  it  lightly  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  which  have  been 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Tm-n  it  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes ;  or,  put 
the  mixture  into  buttered  paper  cases,  filling  them  one  half  full, 
and  bake  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  with  the  souffle  foamy 
sauce  (page  445).  This  soufle  may  be  varied  by  using  different 
flavors  5  also  by  putting  a  layer  of  crushed  fruit  in  the  bottom 


PUDDING  MOLDS. 


BAKED  APPLE  DUMPLINGS.     (SEE  PAGE  429.) 


HOT  DESSEETS  423 

of  the  dish,  or  by  mixing  a  half  cupful  of  fruit-pulp  with  the 
paste  before  the  whites  are  added.  In  this  ease  the  whites  of 
two  more  eggs  will  be  needed  to  give  sufficient  lightness.  Serve 
at  once  after  it  is  taken  from  the  oven. 

CHOCOLATE  SOUFFLE 

3  ounces  of  chocolate.  ^  cupful  of  milk. 

1  heaping  tablespoonf  ul  of  sugar.*  Yolks  of  3  eggs. 

2  rounded  tablespoonf  uls  of  flour.    Whites  of  4  eggs. 

1  rounded  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan ;  stii*  into  it  the  flour  and 
let  it  cook  a  minute,  but  not  brown,  then  add  slowly  the  milk 
and  stir  until  smooth  and  a  little  thickened ;  remove  it  from  the 
fire  and  turu  it  slowly  onto  the  yolks  and  sugai',  which  have 
been  beaten  to  a  cream ;  mix  thoroughly  and  add  the  melted 
chocolate  (see  page  388) ;  stir  for  a  few  minutes,  then  set  it 
away  to  cool ;  rub  a  little  butter  over  the  top  so  a  crust  will  not 
form.  When  ready  to  serve,  stir  the  mixture  well  to  make  it 
smooth  and  fold  into  it  lightly  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  which 
have  been  whipped  until  very  dry  and  firm.  Turn  the  mixture 
into  a  buttered  tin,  filling  it  two  thirds  full.  Have  the  tin  lined 
with  a  strip  of  greased  paper  which  rises  above  the  sides  to 
confine  the  souffle  as  it  rises.  Place  the  tin  in  a  deep  saucepan 
containing  enough  hot  water  to  cover  one  half  the  tin.  Cover 
the  saucepan  and  place  it  where  the  water  will  simmer  for 
thirty  minutes,  keeping  it  covered  all  the  time.  Place  the  tin 
on  a  very  hot  dish  and  serve  at  once.  Cover  the  top  with  a  hot 
tin  until  it  reaches  the  dining-room  if  it  has  to  be  carried  far. 

PRUNE  SOUFFLE 

J  pound  of  prunes.  4  eggs. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  pow-  1  small  teaspoonful  of 

dered  sugar.  vanilla. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the 
vanilla,  and  mix  them  with  the  prunes,  the  prunes  having  been 

*  If  unsweetened  chocolate  is  used,  add  about  three  more  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 
or  to  taste,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 


424  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

stewed,  drained,  the  stones  removed,  and  each  prune  cut  into 
four  pieces.  When  ready  to  serve  fold  in  lightly  the  whites  of 
the  eggs,  which  have  been  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth,  a  dash  of 
salt  having  been  added  to  the  whites  before  whipping  them. 
Turn  it  into  a  pudding-dish  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
twenty  minutes.  Serve  it  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from  the  oven. 
A  few  chopped  almonds,  or  meats  from  the  prune-pits,  may  be 
added  to  the  mixture  before  the  whites  are  put  in  if  desired. 

APPLE  SOUFFLE 

Boil  some  peeled  and  cored  apples  until  tender ;  press  them 
through  a  colander;  season  to  taste  with  butter,  sugar,  and 
vanilla.  Place  the  pur6e  in  a  granite-ware  saucepan  and  let  it 
cook  until  quite  dry  and  firm.  To  one  and  one  quarter  cupfuls 
of  the  hot  reduced  apple  pur6e  add  the  whites  of  four  eggs, 
whipped  very  stiff  and  sweetened  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar.  Mix  the  pur^e  and  meringue  lightly  and 
quickly  together  and  turn  it  into  a  pudding-dish;  smooth  the 
top  into  a  mound  shape ;  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  bake  in  a  slow 
oven  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes.  This  souffl6  does  not  fall. 
Serve  with  a  hard,  a  plain  pudding,  or  an  apricot  sauce. 

FARINA  PUDDING 

This  is  a  very  wholesome,  delicate  pudding,  and  is  especially 
recommended.  The  receipt  gives  an  amount  sufficient  for  six 
people. 

2  cupfuls  of  milk  (1  pint).        3  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar. 
4  tablespoonfuls  of  farina.        3  eggs. 
Grated  rind  of  J  lemon. 

Put  the  milk  and  lemon-zest  into  a  double  boiler;  when  it 
reaches  the  boiling-point  stir  in  the  farina  and  cook  for  five 
minutes ;  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  turn  it  onto  the  yolks 
and  sugar,  which  have  been  beaten  together  until  light ;  stir 
all  the  time.  Let  it  become  cool  but  not  stiff ;  when  ready  to 
bake  it,  fold  in  lightly  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff 


HOT  DESSERTS  425 

froth,  a  dash  of  salt  added  to  them  before  beating.  Turn  it 
into  a  pudding-dish  and  place  the  dish  in  a  pan  containing 
enough  hot  water  to  half  cover  it.  Bake  it  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Serve  at  once,  or,  like  other 
souffles,  it  will  fall.  Serve  with  it  a  sabayon  No.  2,  or  a  meringue 
sauce  (pages  446  and  448). 

SWEET  OMELETS 

These  desserts  are  quickly  made,  are  always  liked,  and  serve 
well  in  emergencies. 

ORANGE  OMELET 

3  eggs.  1  orange,  using  the  grated 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  pow-  rind  and  3  tablespoonfuls 

dered  sugar.  of  juice. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  with  the  sugar  to  a  cream ;  add 
the  grated  zest  of  the  rind  and  the  orange  juice ;  then  fold  in 
lightly  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Have  a  clean,  smooth 
omelet  or  frying-pan ;  put  in  a  teaspoonf ul  of  butter,  rubbing 
it  around  the  sides  as  well  as  bottom  of  the  pan.  When  the 
butter  bubbles,  turn  in  the  omelet  mixture  and  spread  it  evenly. 
Do  not  shake  the  pan.  Let  it  cook  until  it  is  a  delicate  brown 
and  seems  cooked  through,  but  not  hard.  Fold  the  edges  over 
a  little  and  turn  it  onto  a  flat  hot  dish ;  sprinkle  it  plentifully 
with  powdered  sugar ;  heat  the  poker  red  hot  and  lay  it  on  the 
omelet  four  times,  leaving  crossed  burnt  lines  in  the  form  of  a 
star.  This  ornaments  the  top  and  also  gives  a  caramel  flavor 
to  the  sugar. 

JAM  OMELET 

Make  a  French  omelet  as  directed  on  page  264,  using  four  to 
sis  eggs;  omit  the  pepper  and  add  a  little  powdered  sugar. 
When  the  omelet  is  ready  to  turn,  place  in  the  center  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  any  jam  (apricot  is  particularly  good)  and  fold. 
Turn  the  omelet  onto  a  hot  dish  and  sprinkle  it  with  sugar. 


426  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

BUM  OMELET 

Make  either  a  French  omelet,  or  a  beaten  omelet,  using  a 
little  sugar  and  omitting  the  pepper.  Place  the  dish  holding 
the  omelet  on  a  second  and  larger  dish  to  prevent  accident 
from  fire.  When  ready  to  place  on  the  table  pour  over  the 
omelet  a  few  spoonfuls  of  rum  or  brandy  and  light  it.  It  is 
better  not  to  touch  the  match  to  it  until  it  is  on  the  table. 

SWEET  PANCAKES 

3  eggs.  1  teaspoonf  ul  of  sugar. 

1  cupful  of  milk.  J  cupful  of  flour. 

^  teaspoonful  of  salt.  ^  tablespoonful  of  oil. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs  separately ;  mix  them 
together  and  add  the  salt,  sugar,  and  one  half  the  milk ;  stir  in 
the  flour,  making  a  smooth  paste  j  then  add  the  rest  of  the  milk, 
and  lastly  the  oil ;  beat  well  and  let  it  stand  an  hour  or  more 
before  using.  Bake  on  a  hot  griddle  in  large  or  small  cakes  as 
desired ;  spread  each  cake  with  butter  and  a  little  jam  or  jelly, 
then  roll  them,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  serve  at  once.  Any 
pancake  batter  can  be  used.  Those  made  of  rice  or  hominy  are 
good.  The  batter  can  be  made  of  a  consistency  for  thick  or 
thin  cakes  by  using  more  or  less  milk.  Currant  or  tart  jelly  is 
better  to  use  than  a  sweet  preserve. 

FRITTEES 

With  fritter  batter  a  number  of  good  desserts  are  made, 
which,  if  properly  fried,  will  be  entirely  free  from  grease,  and 
perfectly  wholesome. 

FEITTER  BATTER 

2  eggs.  1  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

1  tablespoonful  of  oil.  If  for  sweet  fritters,  1  tea- 

1  cupful  of  flour.  spoonful  of  sugai*  and  1 

^  cupful  of  cold  water.  tablespoonful  of  brandy. 

For  clam  or  oyster  fritters  use  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon 

juice  or  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  the  liquor  of  the 

clams  or  oysters  instead  of  water. 


HOT  DESSERTS  427 

Stir  the  salt  into  the  egg-yolks ;  add  slowly  the  oil,  then  the 
brandy  and  the  sugar ;  the  brandy  may  be  omitted  if  desired, 
and  if  so,  use  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  oil  instead  of  one.  When 
well  mixed  stir  in  slowly  the  flour,  and  then  the  water,  a  little  at 
a  time.  Beat  it  weU  and  set  it  aside  for  two  hours  (it  is  better 
to  let  it  stand  longer) ;  when  ready  to  use,  stir  in  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  The  batter  should  be  very 
thick  and  of  the  consistency  to  coat  completely  the  article  it  is 
intended  to  cover.    If  not  soft  enough  add  the  white  of  another 

APPLE  FRITTERS 

Cut  firm  apples  crosswise  into  slices  one  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  With  a  biscuit-cutter  stamp  them  into  circles  of  uni- 
form size ;  sprinkle  them  with  orange  sugar  (see  page  391),  and 
moisten  them  with  brandy.  Let  them  stand  to  soak  for  ten 
minutes,  then  dry  one  or  two  at  a  time  on  a  napkin ;  dip  them 
in  batter,  using  care  to  have  them  completely  coated,  and  drop 
them  into  hot  fat  (see  frying,  page  72).  Fry  to  an  amber  color ; 
lift  them  out  on  a  skimmer  and  dry  on  paper  in  an  open  oven 
until  all  are  fried;  then  roll  them  in  sugar  and  serve  on  a 
folded  napkin,  the  slices  overlapping.  Fry  only  two  at  a  time, 
so  they  can  be  kept  well  apart.  Serve  with  a  sauce  flavored 
with  brandy  or  sherry. 

PEACH  OR  APRICOT  FRITTERS 

Cut  the  fruit  in  half ;  sprinkle  with  sugar  moistened  with 
maraschino,  and  roll  them  in  powdered  macaroons  before  dip- 
ping them  in  the  batter.  Fry  as  directed  above.  Well-drained 
canned  fruit  may  also  be  used  for  fritters. 

ORANGE  FRITTERS 

Cut  the  oranges  in  quarters ;  take  out  the  seeds  and  run  a 
knife  between  the  pulp  and  peel,  freeing  the  orange  and  leaving 
it  raw.  Roll  them  in  powdered  sugar  and  dip  in  batter  before 
the  sugar  has  time  to  dissolve ;  fry  as  directed  for  apple  fritters. 


428  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

FEITTEES  MADE  OF  BISCUIT  DOUGH 

Make  a  biscuit  dougli  as  given  on  page  352;  turn  it  on  a 
floured  board  and  let  it  rise  until  light,  then  roll  it  one  eighth 
of  an  inch  thick  and  cut  it  into  circles  with  a  fluted  patty-cutter. 
Put  a  teaspoonful  of  jam  in  the  center  of  a  circle.  Wet  the 
edges  and  cover  with  a  second  circle ;  press  the  edges  lightly 
together  and  fiy  in  hot  fat. 

BALLOONS 

Put  a  cupful  of  water  in  a  saucepan ;  when  it  boils  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter;  when  the  butter  is  melted  add  one 
cupful  of  floui'  and  beat  it  with  a  fork  or  wire  whip  until  it  is 
smooth  and  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan.  Remove  from  the  fire 
and  add  three  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  beating  vigorously  each  one 
before  adding  the  next.  Let  it  stand  until  cold.  When  ready 
to  serve,  drop  a  spoonful  at  a  time  into  moderately  hot  fat  and 
fry  for  about  15  minutes.  Take  out  on  a  skimmer  and  dry  on 
brown  paper.  The  batter  will  puff  into  hollow  balls.  If  the 
fat  is  very  hot  it  will  crisp  the  outside  too  soon  and  prevent  the 
balls  from  pufiBng.  Fry  only  a  few  at  a  time,  as  they  must  be 
kept  separated.  Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and  pile  on  a 
folded  napkin.    Serve  with  lemon  sauce  made  as  follows. 

Lemon  sauce:  Strain  the  juice  of  one  and  a  half  lemons; 
add  one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  then  a  half  cupful  of  boiling 
water. 

BATTER  PUDDING 

1  cupful  of  milk.  J  cupful  of  flour. 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter.    3  eggs. 

Put  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler ;  when  hot  add  the  butter. 
Let  the  milk  boil ;  then  add  the  flour,  and  beat  it  hard  until  it 
leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan ;  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  stir 
in  gradually  the  eggs,  which  have  been  well  beaten,  the  yolks  and 
whites  together,  and  a  dash  of  salt.  Continue  to  beat  the 
batter  until  it  is  no  longer  stringy.  Turn  it  into  a  warm  greased 
pudding-dish,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  thirty  to  thirty-five 


HOT  DESSEETS  429 

minutes.  It  should  puff  up  like  a  cream  cake,  and  have  a  thick 
crust.  Serve  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from  the  oven,  or  it  will  fall. 
The  batter  may  stand  some  time  before  baking  if  convenient. 
It  may  be  baked  in  gem-pans  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  if  pre- 
ferred.   Serve  with  plain  pudding  or  hard  sauce. 

DESSERTS  MADE  OF  APPLES 

SNOW  APPLE  PUDDING 

Fill  a  pudding-dish  half  full  of  apple  pur^e  or  sauce,  weU 
seasoned  with  butter,  sugar,  and  nutmeg.  Pour  over  it  a  bat- 
ter made  of  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  flour  mixed  with  two 
heaping  teaspoonf uls  of  baking-powder,  one  half  teaspoonf ul  of 
salt,  and  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  chopped  suet  or  of  lard.  Moisten  it 
mth  about  three  quarters  of  a  cupful  of  milk,  or  enough  to 
make  a  thick  batter.  It  should  not  be  as  stiff  as  for  biscuits. 
Cook  in  a  steamer  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  and  serve 
at  once  with  a  hard,  foamy,  sabayon,  or  any  other  sauce.  The 
top  will  be  very  light  and  white.  This  quantity  is  enough  to 
serve  six  people. 

BROWN  BETTY 

In  a  quart  pudding-dish  arrange  alternate  layers  of  sliced 
apples  and  bread-crumbs ;  season  each  layer  with  bits  of  but- 
ter, a  little  sugar,  and  a  pinch  each  of  ground  cinnamon,  cloves, 
and  allspice.  When  the  dish  is  full  pour  over  it  a  half  cupful 
each  of  molasses  and  water  mixed ;  cover  the  top  with  crumbs. 
Place  the  dish  in  a  pan  containing  hot  water,  and  bake  for 
three  quarters  of  an  hour,  or  until  the  apples  are  soft.  Serve 
with  cream  or  with  any  sauce.  Raisins  or  chopped  almonds 
improve  the  pudding. 

BAKED  APPLE  DUMPLINGS 

Make  a  short  pie-crust;  roll  it  thin  and  cut  it  into  squares 
large  enough  to  cover  an  apple.     Select  apples  of  the  same  size; 


480  THE  CENTUBY  COOK  BOOK 

pare  fkem ;  remove  the  core  with  a  corer,  and  fill  the  space  with 
sugar,  butter,  a  little  ground  cinnamon,  and  nutmeg.  Place  an 
apple  in  the  center  of  each  square  of  pie-crust ;  wet  the  edges 
with  white  of  egg  and  fold  together,  the  points  meeting  on  the 
top;  give  the  edges  a  pinch  and  tm*n,  making  them  fluted. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  forty  minutes,  or  until  the  apples 
are  tender,  but  not  until  they  have  lost  their  form.  If  pre- 
ferred, the  crust  may  be  folded  under  the  apple,  leaving  it 
round.  It  must  be  weU  joined,  so  the  juices  will  not  escape. 
Brush  the  top  with  egg,  and  ten  minutes  before  removing  from 
the  oven  dust  them  with  a  little  sugar  to  give  them  a  glaze. 
Serve  with  hard  sauce. 

APPLE  CHAKLOTTE 

Cut  bread  into  slices  one  quarter  inch  thick ;  then  into  strips 
one  and  a  half  inches  wide,  and  as  long  as  the  height  of  the 
mold  to  be  used ;  cut  one  piece  to  fit  the  top  of  mold,  then  di- 
vide it  into  five  or  six  pieces.  Butter  the  mold ;  dip  the  slices 
of  bread  into  melted  butter,  and  arrange  them  on  the  bottom 
and  around  the  sides  of  the  mold,  fitting  closely  together  or 
overlapping.  Fill  the  center  entirely  full  with  apple  sauce 
made  of  tart  apples  stewed  until  tender,  then  broken  into  coarse 
pieces,  drained,  and  seasoned  with  butter  and  sugar.  A  little 
apricot  jam  can  be  put  in  the  center  if  desired;  chopped  al- 
monds also  may  be  added.  Cover  the  top  with  bread,  and  bake 
in  a  hot  oven  about  thirty  minutes.  The  bread  should  be  an 
amber  color  like  toast.  Turn  it  carefuUy  onto  a  flat  dish. 
Serve  with  a  hard  sauce  or  any  other  sauce  preferred. 

APPLES  WITH  EICE,  No.  1 

Boil  half  a  cupful  of  rice  with  a  saltspoonf ul  of  salt  in  milk 
until  tender ;  sweeten  it  to  taste ;  drain  it  if  the  milk  is  not  aU 
absorbed ;  press  it  into  a  basin ;  smooth  it  over  the  top  ;  when 
it  has  cooled  enough  to  hold  the  form,  turn  it  onto  a  flat  dish. 
This  will  be  a  socle,  and  should  be  about  one  and  a  half  to  two 


STEWED  APPLES  ON    A  RICE   SOCLE —GARNISHED  WITH   CANDIED  CHERRIES  AND 
ANGELICA.      (SEE   PAGE  430.) 


STEWED  APPLES  CUT  IN  HAI  \  I  S   AM)   Al{  li  ANCKD   AROUND  A  RICE  .SOCLE 
NI8HED   WITH   MERINGUE.      (SKE  PAGE  4;!1.) 


HOT  DESSERTS  431 

inches  high.  Pare  and  core  as  many  apples  as  will  stand  on 
the  top  of  the  socle  j  boil  them  slowly  until  tender  in  sugar  and 
water;  remove  them  before  they  lose  shape.  Boil  the  sugar 
and  water  down  to  a  thick  syrup.  Arrange  the  apples  on  the 
top  of  the  rice,  and  pour  over  them  a  little  of  the  thickened 
syrup;  then  fill  the  center  of  each  apple  with  jam;  place  a 
candied  cherry  on  each  one,  and  a  pointed  piece  of  angelica 
between  each  apple.  The  syrup  should  give  enough  sauce,  but 
Richeheu  sauce  is  recommended  instead.    Serve  hot  or  cold. 


APPLES  WITH  RICE,  ITo.  2 

Boil  the  rice  as  above ;  sweeten  it  and  flavor  it  with  a  few 
drops  of  orange-flower  water,  almond,  or  other  essence,  and 
mix  into  it  a  few  chopped  blanched  almonds.  Turn  it  onto  a 
flat  dish,  and  press  it  into  a  mound  or  cone.  Cut  some  apples 
of  uniform  size  in  halves,  cutting  from  the  stem  to  the  blossom ; 
remove  the  core  with  a  vegetable  scoop  (see  illustration),  and 
pare  off  the  skin  carefully ;  stew  the  apples  slowly  until  tender, 
but  still  firm  enough  to  hold  their  shape;  before  removing 
them  add  a  few  drops  of  carmine  to  the  water,  and  let  them 
stand  until  they  have  become  a  delicate  pink ;  then  drain  and 
place  them  evenly  and  upright  against  the  form  of  rice.  Put 
some  meringue  in  a  pastry-bag,  and  press  it  in  lines  or  dots 
around  the  apples  and  over  the  top  of  the  rice,  making  it  as 
ornamental  as  desired.  Dust  it  with  sugar,  and  place  for  one 
minute  in  the  oven  to  slightly  color  the  meringue,  but  not  long 
enough  to  dry  the  surface  of  the  apples.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream,  with  fruit  sauce,  Richelieu  sauce,  or  wine  sauce. 

Whipped  cream  may  be  substituted  for  the  meringue,  in 
which  case  place  the  apples  overlapping  one  another  around 
the  rice  in  wreath  shape ;  flatten  the  top  of  the  rice,  and  pile 
the  whipped  cream  on  it.  Another  form  may  be  made  by  put- 
ting the  rice  in  a  border-mold  to  shape  it,  filling  the  center  of 
the  rice  with  a  weU-seasoned  apple  pur6e,  and  finishing  as 
directed  above. 


432  THE  CENT  DRY  COOK  BOOK 

APPLES  WITH  CORN-STARCH  (Felice) 

Pare  and  core  as  many  apples  as  will  be  used,  having  them 
of  uniform  size.  To  a  quart  of  water  add  one  half  cupful  of 
sugar  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon;  boU  the  apples  in  this 
until  tender,  but  remove  them  before  they  lose  shape ;  drain  and 
place  them  in  regular  order  on  the  dish  in  which  they  are  to  be 
served.  Boil  the  water  down  one  half ;  then  stir  into  it  one 
tablespoonful  of  corn-starch  or  arrowroot  moistened  in  a  little 
water ;  let  it  cook  until  the  starch  is  clear ;  remove  from  the 
fire ;  flavor  with  lemon,  almond,  kirsch,  or  anji;hing  preferred ; 
let  it  stiffen  a  little ;  then  pour  it  over  the  apples ;  sprinkle 
with  sugar  and  place  in  the  oven  a  moment  to  brown,  or,  omit- 
ting the  browning,  sprinkle  them  with  green  and  pink  sugar 
(see  page  393),  or  stick  them  full  of  split  almonds. 

PLAMING  APPLES 

Pare  and  core  the  apples  :  stew  them  in  sugar  and  water  until 
tender,  but  still  firm  enough  to  hold  their  shape.  Remove  them 
carefully  to  the  serving-dish ;  fill  the  centers  with  apricot  or 
raspberry  jam ;  boil  down  the  liquor  to  a  thick  syrup  and  poui* 
it  over  the  apples;  just  before  serving  pour  over  them  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  rum  or  brandy,  and  light  it  with  a  taper  after  it  is 
on  the  table.    Serve  with  fancy  cakes. 

BAKED  APPLES 

(FOR  breakfast) 

Select  apples  of  equal  size;  wash  and  polish  them;  remove 
the  core.  Place  them  in  a  baking-tin  a  little  distance  apart, 
and  put  a  little  water  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  about  thirty  minutes ;  baste  frequently,  so  they 
will  not  burn  or  blacken.     Serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 

BAKED  APPLES 

(for  luncheon) 

Pare  and  core  the  apples ;  fill  the  centers  with  butter  and 
sugar.    Let  them  bake  in  a  pan  with  a  little  water  until  tender, 


HOT  DESSEETS  433 

but  still  in  good  shape ;  baste  frequently,  letting  them  become 
only  slightly  colored.  After  removing  from  the  oven  sprinkle 
them  with  granulated  sugar  and  a  little  powdered  cinnamon  or 
nutmeg. 

TAPIOCA  PUDDING 

Arrange  evenly  in  a  buttered  dish  six  apples  which  have 
been  pared  and  cored.  Any  other  fruit  may  be  used  —  canned 
peaches  are  good.  Soak  a  cupful  of  tapioca  in  hot  water  for  an 
hour  or  more ;  sweeten  and  flavor  it  to  taste  and  pour  it  over 
the  fruit.    Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour. 


EICE  PUDDINGS 
PLAIN  RICE  PUDDING  No.  1 

In  a  pudding-dish  holding  a  quart,  put  two  heaping  table- 
spoonfuls  of  well- washed  rice ;  fill  the  dish  with  milk,  and  add 
a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Let  it  cook  in  the  oven  for  half  an 
hour,  stirring  it  two  or  three  times.  Take  it  out  and  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a  scant  teaspoonful  of  vanilla ;  also 
a  half  cupful  of  stoned  raisins  if  desired.  Grate  nutmeg  over 
the  top ;  return  the  dish  to  the  oven  and  cook  slowly  for  two 
hours  or  more ;  as  the  milk  boils  down,  lift  the  skin  at  the  side 
and  add  more  hot  milk.  The  pudding  should  be  creamy,  and 
this  is  attained  by  slow  cooking,  and  by  using  plenty  of  milk. 

RICE  PUDDING  No.  2 

Scald  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk ;  add  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  corn- 
starch which  has  been  moistened  with  a  little  of  the  cold  milk ; 
cook  it  for  a  few  minutes ;  then  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  stir 
in  three  cupfuls  of  boiled  rice,  a  cupful  or  more  of  sugar  to 
taste,  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Return  it  to  the  fire 
and  cook  it  until  thickened,  stirring  constantly  but  carefully. 
Turn  it  into  a  dish,  cover  the  top  with  meringue,  and  place  it  in 
the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  brown. 

28 


434  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

BICE  AND  BAISINS 

Mix  with  two  cupfuls  of  boiled  rice  a  half  or  three  quai*ters 
cupful  of  raisins.  The  rice  should  be  boiled  as  directed  on 
page  222,  and  the  raisins  should  be  soaked  in  hot  water  until 
plump,  and  the  seeds  removed.  Press  the  mixture  into  a  bowl 
to  give  it  shape,  and  turn  it  onto  a  flat  dish.  Grate  nutmeg 
over  the  top.  Serve  with  sweetened  milk  a  little  flavored  with 
vanilla  or  almond,  or  only  nutmeg. 

For  Lemon  Rice  Pudding,  see  page  242. 

For  Rice  and  Orange  Marmalade  Pudding,  see  page  242. 

BREAD  PUDDmaS 
BREAD  PUDDING  No.  1 

2  cupfuls  of  milk.  2  egg-yolks. 

1  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  or  1  egg-white. 

broken  bread.  J  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

1  tablespoonf ul  of  sugar.  1  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Soak  the  bread  in  the  milk  until  softened ;  then  beat  it  until 
smooth  and  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients  excepting  the  white 
of  egg.  Turn  it  into  a  pudding-dish,  place  this  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  or 
only  long  enough  to  set  the  custard  without  its  separating. 
Cover  the  top  with  a  layer  of  jam  or  with  tart  jelly,  and  place  in 
the  center  a  ball  of  meringue  made  with  the  white  of  one  egg ; 
dust  with  sugar,  place  in  the  oven  a  moment  to  brown  the  mer- 
ingue, and  then  put  a  piece  of  jelly  on  the  top  of  the  meringue. 
Serve  hot  or  cold.    The  jelly  and  meringue  answers  as  a  sauce. 

BREAD  AND  BUTTEB  PUDDING 

Cut  stale  bread  into  thin  slices ;  remove  the  crusts,  dip  them 
in  melted  butter,  and  arrange  them  in  a  small  bread  or  square 
cake-tin  in  even  layers,  alternating  with  layers  of  stoned  raisins. 
"When  the  mold  is  full,  pour  over  it  a  mixture  made  of  one  pint 
of  milk,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  sugar. 


HOT  DESSERTS  435 

Use  only  as  much  as  the  bread  will  absorb.  Bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  Turn  it  onto  a  flat  dish 
and  serve  with  it  a  plain  pudding  sauce.  The  bread  should  be 
dry  and  crisp  and  hold  the  form  of  the  mold. 

BREAD  TABTS 

Cut  bread  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  then  with  a 
biscuit-cutter  about  three  inches  in  diameter  stamp  it  into  cir- 
cles. Moisten  the  circles  of  bread  with  milk,  but  do  not  use 
enough  to  cause  them  to  fall  apart ;  then  spread  them  with  any 
jam  or  preserve  and  place  two  together  like  a  sandwich.  Place 
them  in  a  frying-pan  with  a  little  butter,  and  saut6  them  on 
both  sides  to  a  delicate  color.  Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar 
and  serve  very  hot.  A  sabayon  or  other  sauce  can  be  served 
with  them  if  convenient,  but  it  is  not  essential. 

For  other  bread  puddings  see  Blueberry  Pudding  and  Cherry 
Bread,  page  241. 

CAKE  PUDDINGS 

COTTAGE  PUDDING 

1  cupful  of  flour.  ^  cupful  of  sugar. 

1  heaping  teaspoonf  ul  of  J  cupful  of  milk. 

baking-powder.  1  saltspoonf  ul  of  salt. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  of  butter.  1  egg. 

Mix  the  baking-powder  with  the  flour  and  sift  them.  Rub 
the  butter  and  sugar  together  to  a  cream  and  beat  into  it  the 
egg ;  then  add  the  milk,  in  which  the  salt  has  been  dissolved. 
Add  the  flour ;  beat  well  together  and  turn  into  a  cake-tin  hav- 
ing a  tube  in  the  center.  Bake  about  twenty-five  minutes  in 
a  moderate  oven.  Turn  it  onto  a  flat  dish,  leaving  it  bottom  side 
up.  The  chocolate  sauce  given  below  is  recommended,  but  any 
other  sauce  may  be  served  with  it. 

Chocolate  sauce:  Melt  three  ounces  or  squares  of  Bakei-'s 
chocolate  on  a  dry  pan  (see  page  388) ;  add  one  half  cupful  of 


436  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

sugar  and  one  half  cupful  of  boiling  water.    Stir  until  well  dis 
solved  and  smooth,  then  add  one  quarter  teaspoonf  ul  of  vanilla 

CAUTARY  PUDDING 

Take  the  mixture  for  Genoese  cake,  which  is  three  eggs,  and 
their  weight  respectively  of  sugar,  butter,  and  flour ;  cream  the 
butter  and  sugar ;  then  beat  in,  one  at  a  time,  the  three  eggs ; 
add  lightly  the  sifted  flour.  Butter  a  covered  pudding-mold ; 
decorate  it  with  raisins,  or  sprinkle  it  all  over  with  currants ; 
fill  it  half  full  of  the  mixture ;  cover  and  steam  for  one  hour,  or 
put  it  in  individual  timbale-molds  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes. 
Serve  with  wine  or  fruit  or  Richelieu  sauce. 


SUET  PUDDING 

1  cupful  of  molasses.         3J  cupfuls  of  flour. 
1  teaspoonful  of  soda.       1  cupful  of  stoned  raisins. 
1  cupful  of  milk.  1  cupful  of  suet,  chopped  fine. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Mix  the  salt,  flour,  and  suet  together.  Mix  the  molasses  and 
milk ;  add  the  soda  and  then  as  much  of  the  flour  mixture  as 
will  make  a  stiff  batter  (not  dough),  then  add  the  raisins  floured, 
and  fill  a  covered  pudding-mold  half  full;  steam  for  three 
hours.    Serve  with  foamy,  wine,  or  brandy  sauce. 

FARINA  PUDDING  (Boiled) 

Stir  into  three  cupfuls  of  boUing  milk  one  cupful  of  farina, 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Rub  together  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar;  add  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon  and  twenty-five  chopped 
blanched  almonds.  Stir  this  mixture  into  the  farina  after  it  is 
a  little  cooled ;  lastly  add  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  to 
stiff  froth.  Boil  this  pudding  in  a  covered  mold  for  one  and  a 
half  hours.    Serve  with  any  pudding  sauce. 


HOT  DESSERTS  437 

CHRISTMAS  PLUM  PUDDING 

f  pound  of  suet  chopped  very  fine ;  mix  with  it,  while  chopping, 

a  tablespoonf  ul  of  flour, 
f  pound  of  raisins  seeded, 
f  pound  of  currants, 
f  pound  of  sugar, 
f  pound  of  fresh  bread-crumbs. 
Grated  zest  of  one  lemon. 

4  pound  candied  orange-peel  and  citron  cut  into  thin  shavings. 
J  teaspoonf ul  each  of  ground  cinnamon,  cloves,  nutmeg,  and 
aUspice. 

Mix  the  dry  materials  together  thoroughly,  and  then  add 
six  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  and  one  half  cupful  of  brandy;  add 
another  egg  if  too  stiff,  and  more  crumbs  if  too  soft.  Wet  a 
strong  cloth  in  cold  water,  wring  it  dry,  butter  it,  and  dredge 
it  weU  with  flour ;  turn  the  mixture  into  the  center  and  draw 
the  cloth  together  over  the  top,  leaving  room  for  the  pudding 
to  swell  a  little,  and  tie  it  firmly ;  give  it  a  good  round  shape. 
Put  it  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  having  it  completely  covered 
with  water ;  cover  the  pot  and  boil  four  to  five  hours.  Do  not 
let  the  water  fall  below  the  pudding,  and  in  adding  more  let  it 
be  hot,  so  as  to  not  arrest  the  boiling.  After  it  is  removed 
from  the  water  let  it  rest  in  the  bag  for  ten  minutes  to  harden 
a  little,  then  cut  the  string  and  turn  it  carefuUy  onto  a  dish. 
Cut  a  small  hole  in  the  top  of  the  pudding  and  insert  a  paper 
bonbon  case  (see  page  386)  j  trim  it  so  it  does  not  show.  Pour 
rum  or  brandy  onto  the  dish  and  also  into  the  paper  box  on 
top ;  place  it  on  the  table  and  touch  it  with  a  lighted  taper. 
Serve  with  a  brandy  sauce.  The  amount  given  will  serve 
twelve  to  fourteen  persons.  The  mixture  may  be  divided  and 
boiled  in  small  puddings  if  it  is  too  much  to  use  at  one  time. 
It  wiU  keep  for  a  long  time,  and  the  puddings  can  be  warmed 
when  used.  Slices  of  cold  plum  pudding  may  be  steamed  and 
served  with  a  sauce  j  or  they  may  be  rolled  in  egg  and  crumbs 
and  fried  in  hot  fat,  and  be  served  as  fruit  croquettes. 


438  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

FIG  PUDDING 

^  cupful  of  chopped  figs.  J  cupful  of  flour. 

^  cupful  of  chopped  suet.  ^  cupful  of  chopped  ahuouds. 

2  cupf  uls  of  white  bread-crumbs.    4  eggs. 

J  cupful  of  sugar.  1    teaspoonful    of    baking- 

1  cupful  of  milk.  powder. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  noyau  or  other  flavor. 

Flour  the  figs  and  suet.  Soak  the  bread-crumbs  in  the  milk, 
add  the  sugar,  then  the  egg-yolks,  and  beat  it  well ;  then  add 
slowly,  stirring  all  the  time,  the  figs,  suet,  almonds,  flour  mixed 
with  the  baking-powder,  flavoring,  and  lastly  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  beaten  very  stiff.  Turn  it  into  a  covered  pudding-mold, 
filling  it  three  quarters  full ;  steam  for  three  hours.  This  mix- 
ture will  fiU  twelve  individual  molds.  If  the  small  molds  are 
used,  place  a  star  of  angelica  in  the  bottom  of  each  one  and 
cover  it  with  a  thin  layer  of  boiled  rice ;  then  fill  three  quarters 
fuU  with  the  pudding  mixture ;  place  them  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  poach  on  top  of  the 
range  for  one  and  one  half  hours.  This  pudding  can  have 
brandy  poured  over  and  lighted  the  same  as  the  plum  pudding. 
Serve  with  a  syrup  sauce  flavored  the  same  as  the  pudding. 


CABINET  PUDDING  No.  1 

Ornament  the  bottom  of  a  well-buttered  mold  with  citron 
and  raisins.  Cover  them  with  slices  of  cake;  then  fill  the  mold 
nearly  full  with  alternate  layers  of  fruit  and  cake,  arranging 
the  fruit  on  the  edges  of  the  fruit  layers  so  it  will  be  even  and 
symmetrical.  Make  a  custard  mixture  of  a  pint  of  milk,  three 
egg-yolks,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Pour  it  slowly 
into  the  mold,  so  the  cake  wiU  be  thoroughly  soaked,  and  set  it 
in  a  pan  of  water.  Bake  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  an  hour,  or  uutU 
the  custard  is  set.  Unmold  the  pudding,  and  serve  with  it  a 
wine  sauce. 


HOT  DESSEETS  439 

CABINET  PUDDING  No.  2 

Cut  a  half  pound  of  candied  fruits  into  dice,  using  cherries, 
apricots,  plums,  limes,  etc.;  also  some  candied  orange-peel 
shredded.  Butter  well  a  plain  cylindrical  mold;  sprinkle  over 
the  bottom  a  thin  layer  of  the  fruit,  then  a  layer  of  cake 
(genoese,  or  sponge  layer  cake,  see  page  466).  Fill  the  mold  to 
within  an  inch  of  the  top  with  alternate  layers  of  fruit  and  cake, 
using  also  some  macaroons.  Leave  always  some  fruit  on  the 
sides  of  the  mold.  Then  turn  in  slowly  a  custard  mixture  made 
of  one  pint  of  milk,  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  and  two  and  one  half 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Let  it  stand  a  few  minutes  for  the 
cake  to  absorb  the  liquid;  then  place  the  mold  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water,  and  poach  in  a  slow  oven  for  one  hour.  This  pudding 
is  usually  served  hot,  but  may  be  served  cold.  Serve  with  Sa- 
bayon,  Richelieu,  or  Bischoff  sauces.     (See  pudding  sauces.) 

CABINET  PUDDING  No.  3  (Soyale) 

Take  a  loaf  of  brioche  (see  page  359  and  361)  baked  the  day  be- 
fore in  a  cylindrical  mold.  Cut  it  into  slices  one  half  inch  thick. 
Cut  with  a  small  patty-cutter  a  round  piece  from  the  center  of 
all  but  two  of  the  slices.  Cut  the  crust  from  the  outside,  taking 
as  little  as  possible.  Spread  each  slice  with  apricot  jam,  and 
sprinkle  with  chopped  almonds.  Butter  the  mold  well,  and  re- 
place the  slices,  using  on  the  bottom  one  which  has  not  had  a 
hole  cut  in  the  center.  When  all  but  the  last  slice  are  in,  fill 
the  well  in  the  center  with  mixed  canned  fruits  well  drained, 
using  pineapple,  apricots,  a  few  candied  cherries,  and  chopped 
almonds;  then  pour  in  a  custard  mixture  made  of  one  pint  of 
milk,  four  yolks  of  eggs,  two  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar.  Let  the  brioche  absorb  the  liquid ;  then  cover  with  the 
second  whole  slice,  and  pour  over  that,  too,  some  of  the  custard 
mixture.  Place  the  mold  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  poach  in  a 
slow  oven  for  one  hour.  Let  it  stand  a  little  while  in  the  mold 
after  it  is  cooked.  When  ready  to  serve,  unmold,  spread  the 
whole  outside  with  apricot  jam,  and  sprinkle  with  chopped 
almonds.    Serve  with  apricot  sauce  or  any  other  sauce. 


440  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

CABINET  PUDDDTG  ITo.  4 

Cut  slices  of  bread  one  half  inch  thick  to  fit  a  mold.  Pill  the 
mold  with  alternate  layers  of  bread  and  chopped  drained  pine- 
apple (fresh  or  canned).  Pour  in  a  custard  mixture  made  of 
one  pint  of  milk,  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar.  Bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  one  hour  (as  directed  above), 
or  until  the  custard  is  set.  Serve  with  a  sauce  made  of  the 
juice  of  the  fruit  diluted  and  thickened  with  a  little  arrowroot, 
then  sweetened  and  flavored  (with  kirsch  if  liked),  and  a  few 
shredded  almonds. 

SAVABINS 

Butter  some  individual  timbale-molds,  sprinkle  them  with 
chopped  almonds,  fill  them  half  full  of  brioche  paste  (see  page 
359),  let  the  paste  rise  to  the  top  of  the  molds,  and  then  bake  in  a 
hot  oven  for  about  twenty  minutes.  When  baked,  cut  off  the  top 
even  with  the  mold,  and  turn  them  out.  Pour  over  them  a  hot 
syrup  made  of  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  three  quarters  of  a  cup- 
ful of  water  boiled  for  ten  minutes  (or  to  30°),  and  flavored  with 
four  teaspoonfuls  of  kirsch.  Other  flavors  may  be  used  if  pre- 
ferred. Let  the  savarins  absorb  enough  of  the  hot  syrup  to  be 
well  moistened,  but  not  so  much  as  to  lose  their  firmness. 
Drain  and  serve  them  hot.  Or  incorporate  into  the  paste 
before  molding  a  little  shredded  candied  orange-peel.  Soak 
them,  when  baked,  in  syrup  flavored  with  orange  or  cura9ao,  and 
cover  them  with  an  orange  fondant  icing  (see  page  485 ),  and 
serve  cold. 

BABA 

Into  three  cupfuls  of  brioche  paste  mix  one  cupful  of  cur- 
rants, raisins,  and  chopped  citron,  which  have  soaked  for  an 
hour  in  maraschino.  Half  fill  buttered  baba-molds  (which  are 
cups  holding  about  one  half  pint) ;  let  it  rise  to  top  of  mold, 
which  will  take  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  It  must  not 
rise  in  too  warm  a  place,  or  the  butter  wUl  separate.  Bake 
them  in  a  moderate  oven  one  half  hour.  Let  them  absorb  hot 
syrup  at  30°,  flavored  with  kirsch  or  sherry. 


HOT  DESSERTS  441 

CUSTARDS 

CR^ME  PAEISIENNE 

This  is  the  same  as  caramel  custard  (page  396),  except  that  it 
is  served  hot.  Butter  well  a  flat  mold  or  basin,  ornament  the 
bottom  with  a  few  candied  cherries  and  angelica,  pour  over 
them  caramel  which  is  not  browned  deeper  than  an  amber 
color,  and  do  not  use  enough  to  float  the  fruits.  Let  it  cool  be- 
fore adding  the  custard  mixture.  When  it  is  baked,  let  the 
mold  stand  in  the  hot  water  until  the  moment  of  serving. 

FRIED  CREAM 

1  pint  of  milk.  2^  tablespoonfuls  of  cornstarch. 

J  cupful  of  sugar.  1  tablespoonful  of  flour. 

^  teaspoonf ul  of  butter.      ^  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Yolks  of  3  eggs.  ^  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Put  the  milk  into  a  double  boiler  with  the  salt  and  a  piece 
of  cinnamon  or  lemon-zest.  When  it  is  at  the  boiling-point  add 
the  sugar;  then  the  cornstarch  and  flour,  which  have  been 
moistened  in  cold  milk.  Stir  until  thickened;  remove,  and  turn 
it  over  the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Place  it  on  the  fire  again 
for  a  few  minutes  to  set  the  eggs.  Add  the  butter  and  flavor- 
ing, and  strain  it  onto  a  flat  dish,  or  biscuit-tin,  making  a  layer 
three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick.  Let  it  stand  until  perfectly 
cold  and  firm  (it  may  be  made  the  day  before  it  is  used); 
then  cut  it  into  pieces  three  inches  long  and  two  inches  wide. 
Handle  the  pieces  carefully,  using  a  broad  knife-blade.  Cover 
each  one  with  sifted  cracker-crumbs,  then  with  egg,  and  again 
with  crumbs;  be  sure  they  are  completely  covered.  Fry  the 
pieces  in  hot  fat  to  an  amber  color ;  lay  them  on  a  brown  paper 
in  the  open  oven  to  dry,  sprinkle  them  with  sugar,  and  serve  on 
a  folded  napkin.  The  crust  should  be  crisp,  and  the  center 
creamy,  the  same  as  a  croquette.  If  the  pudding  stands  long 
enough  before  being  fried,  it  wUl  not  be  difficult  to  handle. 
Have  the  fat  smoking  hot,  and  do  not  fry  too  long.  This  dish 
is  recommended,  as  it  is  particularly  good,  and  very  easy  to 
make. 


442  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

SHORT  CAKES 

STEAWBERRY  SHORTCAKE 

4  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour.  1  teaspoonful  of  butter. 

3  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  1  teaspoonful  of  lard. 

baking-powder.  Milk. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt.  2  quarts  of  strawberries. 

Sift  the  baking-powder  and  salt  with  the  flour,  rub  in  the 
shortening ;  then  with  a  fork  stir  in  lightly  and  quickly  sufficient 
milk  to  make  a  soft  dough — too  soft  to  roll.  Tui-n  it  into 
a  greased  tin,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 
Watch  to  see  that  it  rises  evenly.  Unmold,  and  leaving  it 
inverted,  cut  a  circle  around  the  top,  within  one  inch  of  the 
edge;  lift  off  the  circle  of  crust,  and  with  a  fork  pick  out  the 
crumb  from  the  center,  leaving  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch 
of  biscuit  around  the  sides.  Spread  the  inside  of  the  cake  with 
butter,  and  then  fill  it  with  crushed  strawberries,  which  have 
been  standing  half  an  hour  or  more  mixed  with  sugar  enough  to 
sweeten  them.  Turn  off  the  juice  from  the  berries  before  filling 
the  cake.  Replace  the  circle  of  crust,  and  cover  the  whole  cake, 
top  and  sides,  with  meringue,  heaping  it  irregularly  on  the  top. 
Use  a  pastry-bag  if  convenient  to  give  the  meringue  orna- 
mental form.  Place  it  in  the  oven  a  moment  to  slightly  color 
the  meringue.  Arrange  a  few  handsome  berries  on  the  top. 
Serve  the  strawberry-juice  as  a  sauce.  Whipped  cream  may  be 
used  instead  of  meringue,  if  convenient.  Shortcake,  to  be  good, 
should  be  freshly  made,  and  served  as  soon  as  put  together. 

GURRAHT  SHORTCAKE 

Make  a  biscuit  dough  as  directed  for  strawbeny  shortcake 
above,  using  half  the  quantity.  Turn  it  into  a  pie-tin  to  bake. 
While  it  is  still  hot  cut  the  edges  and  pull  it  apart  with  forks 
(do  not  cut  it).  Turn  the  crumb  sides  up;  butter  them  and 
cover  each  one  with  a  thick  layer  of  crushed  currants,  which 
have  been  standing  at  least  two  hours  with  enough  sugar  to 


HOT  DESSEETS  443 

sweeten  them.  Place  one  layer  on  the  other,  cover  the  top  with 
meringue,  and  ornament  it  with  a  few  currants  in  lines  or  ar- 
ranged in  any  way  to  suit  the  fancy.  This  is  a  delicious  short- 
cake, the  acid  of  the  currants  giving  it  more  character  than 
strawberry  shortcake. 

STRAWBERRY  CAKE 

Make  two  layers  of  Genoese  (page  467)  or  of  sponge  cake  No. 
1  (page  466);  cover  them  with  whipped  cream,  and  arrange 
whole  strawberries  close  together  over  the  entire  top;  place 
one  layer  on  the  other,  and  serve  at  once.  The  cream  moistens 
the  cake  if  it  stands  long. 

Shortcakes  are  good  made  of  peaches  or  pineapple,  using  the 
biscuit  mixture. 

ROLY-POLY  PUDDING 

Make  a  biscuit  dough,  and  roll  it  out  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick;  spread  it  with  any  kind  of  berries  (whortleberries  or 
blackberries  are  best).  Then  roll  it,  and  tie  it  in  a  cloth,  leav- 
ing room  for  the  pudding  to  expand,  and  boil  or  steam  it  for  an 
hour.    Serve  with  any  sauce. 

FRUIT  PUDDING 

Beat  two  eggs ;  add  a  cupful  of  milk,  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter;  then 
stir  in  as  much  fruit  as  it  w'Al  hold  (cherries,  whortleberries, 
strawberries,  or  raspberries  are  the  best  fruits  to  use).  Turn 
the  mixture  into  a  pudding-mold  large  enough  to  give  room  for 
the  pudding  to  expand,  and  boil  it  for  an  hour.  Serve  with  it 
plain  pudding  sauce,  Sabayon,  or  a  fruit  sauce. 

BAKED  INDIAN  PUDDING 

J  cupful  yellow  meal.  3  cupfuls  of  milk. 

Scant  half  cupful  of  molasses.  1  egg. 

i  teaspoonf ul  of  salt.  ^  cupful  of  water. 

1 J  tablespoonf  uls  of  butter.  Dash  of  nutmeg. 


444  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Put  two  ciipf uls  of  milk,  a  quarter  cupful  of  water,  and  the 
salt,  on  the  fire ;  when  it  boils  stir  in  the  meal,  and  let  it  cook 
five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time ;  then  remove  from  the  fire, 
and  add  the  rest  of  the  milk  mixed  with  the  molasses,  the  but- 
ter, the  beaten  egg,  and  the  nutmeg  (or  ginger,  if  preferred), 
and  turn  it  into  a  baking-dish.  Bake  it  in  a  slow  oven  for 
three  hours.    This  quantity  makes  a  pint  and  a  haK  of  pudding. 

Note.— Some  email  bits  of  candled  orange-peel  sprinkled  on  the  bottom  of  the 
dish  before  the  batter  is  put  in  give  a  deliclons  flavor  to  the  pudding. 

PUDDING  SAUCES 

Pudding  sauces  are  quickly  made.  They  call  for  but  few 
materials,  and,  like  other  sauces,  often  give  the  whole  character 
to  the  dish.  Serving  the  same  pudding  with  a  different  sauce, 
makes  it  a  different  dish ;  therefore  it  is  well  to  vary  as  much 
as  possible  the  combinations.  Farina  pudding  can  be  served 
with  almost  any  of  the  sauces  given  below.  Cake,  cornstarch, 
rice,  apple,  or  bread  puddings  can  also  be  served  with  almost 
any  sauce,  if  the  flavorings  are  the  same,  or  such  as  go  well 
together.  Hot  puddings  can  be  served  with  cold  sauces.  Jellies, 
creams,  and  blanc-raanges  can  be  served  with  whipped  cream, 
the  fruit  sauces,  or  the  whipped  egg  sauces. 

Stewed  prunes  or  compote  of  orange  are  good  to  serve  with 
plain  boiled  rice,  or  with  sweetened  hominy,  farina,  or  cerealine 
molded  in  cups. 

PLAIN  PUDDING  SAUCE  No.  1  (Hot) 

f  cupful  of  sugar.  1  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch. 

2  cupfuls  of  boiling  water.  Flavoring  to  taste  of  vanilla  or 

1  teaspoonfal  of  butter.  any  essence,  or  brandy,  rum. 

Zest  of  lemon.  or  wine. 

Dilute  the*com-starch  with  a  little  cold  water,  and  stir  it  into 
the  boUing  water  j  add  the  sugar  and  stir  until  the  starch  be- 
comes clear;  then  add  the  butter  and  flavoring.  If  the  sauce 
becomes  too  thick,  dilute  it  with  a  little  boiling  water;  the 
whipped  white  of  one  egg  may  be  added,  but  is  not  essential. 


HOT  DESSERTS  445 

PLAIN  PUDDING  SAUCE  No.  2  (Cold) 

Stir  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch,  which  has  been 
moistened  with  a  little  cold  milk,  into  a  pint  of  boiling  milk, 
and  stir  for  five  minutes,  or  until  it  is  well  cooked ;  add  three 
quarters  of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  remove  from  the  fire.  When 
the  mixture  is  cold  flavor  it,  and  just  before  serving  beat  in  the 
whipped  whites  of  two  eggs  and  serve  at  once. 

RICH  PUDDING  SAUCE 

(for  fruit  puddings  or  croquettes) 
3  tablespoonf uls  of  butter.  ^  cupful  of  sherry. 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered      Juice  of  ^  lemon. 

sugar.  2  egg  yolks 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  water.     Dash  of  nutmeg. 

Cream  the  butter;  add  the  sugar,  and  cream  again  thoroughly ; 
then  add  the  yolks  and  beat  until  light ;  add  the  hot  water  and 
the  nutmeg.  Place  it  in  a  saucepan  of  hot  water,  and  beat, 
adding  slowly  the  lemon-juice  and  the  wine.  The  sauce  should 
be  foamy. 

FOAMT  SAUCE 

(steamed  and  baked  puddings) 

J  cupful  of  butter.  J  cupful  of  boiling  water. 

1  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.    2  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry. 
1  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  1  egg  white. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar ;  add  the  vanilla  and  wine,  and 
beat  them  well.  Just  before  serving  stir  in  the  boiling  water ; 
add  the  whipped  white  of  one  egg,  and  beat  until  foamy. 

BRANDY,   RUM,   OR  KIRSCH  SAUCE 

(fruit  or  plum  puddings) 

Put  in  a  saucepan  two  cupf uls  of  water  with  one  cupful  of 
sugar.  When  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and  the  water  boils,  add 
slowly  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch  or  arrowroot  di- 


446  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

luted  with  a  little  cold  water ;  stir  until  the  corn-starch  is  clear ; 
then  remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  two  tablespoonf uls  of  the 
liquor.    Serve  it  hot.  ^ 

SABAYON  No.  1 

4  egg-yolks.  4  tablespoonf  uls  of  pow- 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  wine.  dered  sugar. 

Beat  in  a  small  saucepan  the  eggs  and  sugar  to  a  light  cream ; 
add  the  wine.  When  ready  to  serve,  place  the  saucepan  in  an- 
other one  containing  hot  water,  and  beat  until  the  sugar  is 
melted  and  the  egg  beginning  to  thicken. 

SABATON  No.  2 

Put  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  half  cup  of  sherry,  and  one  egg  all 
together  in  a  saucepan  and  whip  over  the  fire  until  it  is  a  little 
thickened. 

SYRUP  SAUCE 

Put  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  water 
into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved ; 
then  let  it  boil  without  touching  until  it  is  a  light  syrup,  and 
remove  from  the  fire ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  and  flavor- 
ing, which  may  be  fruit  juice,  liqueur,  brandy,  or  flavoring 
extract. 

FRUIT  SAUCES 

Canned  fruits,  preserves,  or  jams  make  good  sauces  for  blanc- 
mange, corn-starch,  rice,  or  boiled  puddings. 

The  juice  of  canned  fruit,  boiled  and  thickened  a  little  with 
arrowroot,  and  flavored  or  not  with  liqueur  or  essence,  makes  a 
good  hot  sauce. 

APRICOT  SAUCE 

Dilute  one  half  cupful  of  apricot  jam  with  one  half  cupful  of 
hot  water ;  sweeten  if  necessary ;  strain  and  flavor  with  vanilla 
or  one  teaspoonful  of  Madeira  or  maraschino. 


HOT  DESSERTS  447 

PUREE  OF  FRUIT   SAUCES 

Strawberries,  raspberries,  peaches  and  apricots  make  excel- 
lent pudding  sauces.  Mash  the  fruit  and  press  it  through  a 
colander  or  coarse  sieve ;  sweeten  to  taste ;  serve  hot  or  cold ; 
if  hot,  let  it  come  to  the  boiling-point  and  thicken  with  arrow- 
root, using  ono  teaspoonful  to  a  cupful  of  pur^e. 

PINEAPPLE  SAUCE     - 

Chop  the  pineapple  (fresh  or  canned)  fine ;  sweeten  and  thicken 

with  arrowroot.     Serve  with  fritters,  corn-starch,  rice,  or  batter 

puddings. 

BOILED  CUSTARD  SAUCE 

Yolks  of  2  eggs.  2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar. 

1  cupful  of  milk.  J  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  to  a  cream ;  pour  over  them  the 
scalded  milk ;  return  to  the  fire  to  cook  the  eggs,  but  let  it  only 
slightly  thicken ;  remove ;  add  the  flavoring  and  beat  with  a 
wire  whip  to  make  it  light  and  foamy.  When  served  with  plum 
pudding  add  rum  or  brandy  to  flavor  it.  Almonds  chopped 
fine  improve  it  for  hot  puddings. 

CHOCOLATE  SAUCE 

Put  a  half  cupful  each  of  sugar  and  water  in  a  saucepan  and 
let  boil  five  minutes.  Let  the  syrup  cool,  then  stir  it  slowly  into 
four  ounces  of  unsweetened  chocolate  melted;  add  one  half  tea- 
spoonful of  vanilla.  Let  it  stand  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  until 
ready  to  serve;  then  add  one  half  cupful  of  cream  or  of  milk.* 

BISCHOFF  SAUCE 

Put  in  a  saucepan  one  cupful  of  white  wine,  one  cupful  of 
hot  water,  and  sugar  to  taste;  add  the  zest  of  one  half  of  an 
orange  and  one  half  of  a  lemon ;  let  it  come  to  the  boiling-point ; 
remove  from  the  fire ;  take  out  the  orange  and  lemon  peel  and 
add  one  half  cupful  of  seedless  raisins,  one  tablespoonful  of 

*  This  sauce  should  be  smooth  and  of  the  consistency  of  heavy  cream.  If  it  is  to 
be  used  with  ice-cream,  omit  the  cream  or  milk  and  make  it  of  the  right  consistency 
with  water.    See  also  page  435.—  M.  R. 


448  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

shredded  almonds,  aud  a  tablespoonful  of  finely  shredded  can- 
died orange  and  lemon  peel ;  cover  and  let  stand  a  half -hour. 
When  ready  to  serve  let  it  again  come  to  the  boiling-point. 
Serve  with  cabinet  puddings. 

RICHELIEU  SAUCE 

Put  one  cupful  of  sugar  into  a  saucepan  with  one  cupful  of 
boiling  water ;  let  it  boil  five  minutes ;  add  one  teaspoonf  ul  of 
arrowroot  moistened  with  a  little  water,  and  cook  until  clear; 
then  remove  from  fire.  Flavor  with  one  tablespoonful  of  kirsch 
and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  shredded  almonds  and  candied 
cherries  cut  into  small  pieces. 

MERDTOUE  SAUCE 

Whip  the  whites  of  two  or  three  eggs  to  a  very  stiff  froth. 
Take  as  many  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  as  you  have  egg-whites ; 
add  a  little  water  and  let  it  cook  to  the  ball  (see  page  512), 
or  so  that  when  dropped  into  water  it  will  roll  into  a  ball 
between  the  fingers.  Turn  this  hot  syrup  slowly  onto  the 
whipped  eggs,  beating  all  the  time ;  then  beat  it  over  the  fire  for 
a  minute  where  the  heat  is  moderate.  This  is  called  Italian 
meringue.  Remove  it  from  the  fire  and  add  a  little  lemon- 
juice  or  kirsch  to  take  away  the  excessive  sweetness ;  or  a  little 
currant  jelly  can  be  used,  also  grated  orange-peel  and  shredded 
candied  peel ;  serve  it  at  once.  This  is  a  good  sauce  for  souflBles 
or  light  puddings. 

HARD  SAUCE 

Beat  together  one  half  cupful  of  butter  and  one  cupful  of 
sugar  until  they  are  very  white  and  light ;  flavor  with  vanilla, 
wine,  or  brandy.  The  success  of  this  sauce  depends  upon  its 
being  beaten  a  long  time.  It  may  be  varied  by  beating  with  it 
the  yolk  of  an  egg,  or  adding  the  whipped  white  of  an  egg 
after  the  butter  and  sugar  are  beaten.  Let  it  stand  on  ice  to 
harden  a  little  before  serving. 


HOT  DESSERTS  449 

STRAWBERRY  SAUCE 

Make  a  hard  sauce  as  directed  above ;  add  the  whipped  white 
of  one  egg  and  a  cupful  of  strawberries  mashed  to  a  pulp. 
Any  fruit-pulp  may  be  added  in  the  same  way  and  makes  a 
good  sauce  for  fruit  puddings. 

COGOANUT  SAUCE 

Make  a  hard  sauce  as  directed  above ;  add  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs ;  when  it  is  very  light  and  creamy  add  the  whipped  whites 
and  a  cupful  of  grated  cocoanut. 

COLD  JELLY  SAUCE 

Stir  a  half  glassful  of  grape,  currant,  or  any  jelly  until 
smooth ;  then  beat  into  it  lightly  the  whipped  whites  of  two 
eggs.    Serve  with  any  light  pudding  or  with  jelly. 


29 


Chaptee  XX 

PIES  AND  PUFF-PASTE 

The  American  pie  is  perhaps  the  most  ridiculed  of 
all  dishes.  It  has,  however,  great  popularity  and  un-. 
doubted  merits.  Were  the  crust,  especially  the  under 
one,  always  right,  it  would  remove  the  most  salient 
point  of  criticism.  The  tart  pies,  made  with  puff- 
paste,  are  a  temptation  to  the  most  fastidious  taste. 
The  mince  pie,  probably  the  most  indigestible  of  all, 
is  the  one  universally  accepted  as  a  treat,  and  seldom 
Seasons,  refused  by  the  scoffer.  Pies  have  their  seasons,  like 
other  good  things,  the  apple  pie  being  the  only  one 
served  the  year  round.  The  berries  and  fruits, 
each  one  in  their  time,  make  most  acceptable  and  de- 
licious pies  and  tarts,  while  rhubarb  introduces  the 
spring,  and  pumpkin  announces  the  autumn.  In 
this  day  of  canned  and  dried  fruits  the  season  need 
not  be  so  strictly  observed,  but  fresh  fruits  will  always 
be  preferable  to  preserved  ones,  and  tradition  goes  far 
to  hold  the  place  for  pumpkin  pie  at  Thanksgiving, 
and  mince  pie  at  the  Christmas  feasts. 


«5e 


PIES  AND  PUFF-PASTE  451 

PIES 

PLAIN  PASTRY  FOR  PIES 

1  quart  of  flour.  1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  cupful  of  butter.  Or  use  one-half  butter  and 

1  cupful  of  cold  water.  one  half  lard  or  cottolene. 

This  quantity  gives  enough  for  three  or  four  pies.  Cottolene 
makes  good  pastry.  The  shortening  may  be  mixed,  but  the 
flavor  is  better  where  butter  alone  is  used.  The  richness  of 
pastry  depends  upon  the  amount  of  shortening  used. 

Sift  the  salt  and  flour  together,  reserving  a  little  flour  for 
the  board.  With  a  knife,  cut  the  butter  into  the  flour.  Add 
the  water  a  little  at  a  time,  and  mix  it  in  lightly  with  the  knife ; 
turn  it  onto  the  board,  and  roll  it  twice — that  is,  after  it  is 
rolled  out  once,  fold  it  together  and  roll  it  again.  K  the  paste 
is  wanted  richer  for  the  top  crust,  put  bits  of  butter  over  the 
paste  when  rolled;  fold  and  roll  it  again  several  times.  Fold 
the  paste,  and  put  it  in  the  ice-box  for  an  hour  before  using, 
keeping  it  covered.  In  making  pastry  everything  should  be 
cold,  the  handling  light,  and  the  hands  used  as  little  as  pos- 
sible. Paste  wUl  keep  several  days  in  a  cool  place,  but  should 
be  rolled  in  a  napkin,  so  it  will  not  dry  and  form  a  crust. 

To  Put  a  Pie  Together. — Roll  the  paste  one  eighth  inch  thick, 
and  a  little  larger  than  the  tin.  Dust  the  pan  with  flour ;  place 
the  paste  on  it,  letting  it  shrink  all  it  will.  Lift  it  from  the 
sides  to  fit  it  into  place,  and  press  it  as  little  as  possible.  Cut  a 
narrow  strip  of  paste,  and  lay  around  the  edge;  moisten  it  so  it 
win  stick.  Brush  the  top  of  the  bottom  crust  with  white  of 
egg,  so  the  filling  will  not  soak  in  and  make  it  heavy.  Put  in 
the  filling,  and  cover  with  another  sheet  of  pastry.  Moisten  the 
top  of  the  strip  of  pastry  so  the  top  crust  will  adhere  to  it;  this 
gives  three  layers  around  the  edge.  Trim  and  press  them 
lightly  together.  Cut  several  slits  in  the  top  crust  to  let  the 
steam  escape  in  cooking. 

A  thin  piece  of  paste  cut  into  fancy  shape  can  be  placed  in 
the  center  for  ornament  if  desired. 


452  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

PASTRY  FOR  TARTS  OR  OPEN  PIES 

2  cupfuls  of  flour.  1  tablespoonf ul  of  sugar, 

f  cupful  of  butter.  Yolks  of  2  eggs. 

^  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt.  Water. 

Sift  the  flour,  salt,  and  sugar  together.  Cut  in  the  butter  as 
directed  above.  Mix  in  the  beaten  yolks,  then  enough  water  to 
make  a  paste  which  is  not  very  stiff;  roll  it  two  or  three  times, 
then  wrap  it  in  a  cloth,  or  cover  it  closely,  and  put  it  in  the  ice- 
box for  an  hour.  This  gives  enough  paste  for  four  small  tart 
pies  like  those  shown  in  illustration. 

TART  PIES 

(apricot,  plum,  apple,  berry) 

Roll  the  paste  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  lay  it  on  a  deep 
pie-dish;  let  it  shrink  aU  it  wiU,  and  use  as  little  pressure  as 
possible  in  fitting  it  to  the  tin.  Cut  the  paste  an  inch  larger 
than  the  dish,  and  fold  it  under,  giving  a  high  twisted  edge. 
Prick  the  paste  on  the  bottom  in  several  places  with  a  fork. 
Lay  over  it  a  thin  paper,  and  fill  the  tart  with  rice,  dried  peas, 
beans,  cornmeal,  or  any  dry  material  convenient.  Brush  the 
edge  with  egg,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done 
remove  the  rice,  or  other  filling,  and  the  paper.  Brush  the  bot- 
tom with  white  of  egg.  This  will  insure  a  dry  under  crust. 
If  apricots  or  peaches  are  to  be  used,  peel  and  cut  them  in 
halves,  lay  them  evenly  over  the  tart  with  the  center  side  up. 

Place  the  half  of  a  blanched  almond  in  each  one  to  represent 
the  pit.  Put  the  juice  of  the  fruit  into  a  saucepan  on  the  firej 
if  there  is  no  juice  use  a  cupful  of  water.  Sweeten  to  taste, 
and  when  it  boils  add  to  each  cupful  of  juice  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  arrowroot  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water,  and  let  it 
cook  until  clear;  then  pour  it  around  the  fruit,  but  not  over 
it,  as  the  fruit  should  lie  on  top  and  show  its  form.  Place 
in  the  oven  only  long  enough  to  cook  the  fruit  tender-  If 
canned  fruit  is  used,  cook  the  juice  and  arrowroot  until  a  little 


TART  RINGS   AND  CRUSTS. 

1,  2.    Tart  Rings.  3.    Crust  baked  in  rinjr  No.  1. 

4.    Crust  filled  with  rice  as  prepared  for  baking.    (See  page  452  ) 


TART  PIES. 

1.  Pie  filled  with  quarters  of  apples  arranged  in  rows. 

2.  Pie  filled  with  apricots  cut  iu  halves— a  blanched  almond  in  the  center 

of  each  piece.    (See  page  452.) 


PEES  AND  PUFF-PASTE  453 

thickened  and  clear;  then  pour  it  around  the  fruit,  and  let 
cool.    It  will  not  need  to  be  put  in  the  oven. 

When  plums  or  cherries  are  used,  remove  the  pits  carefully, 
and  place  the  fruit  close  together,  with  the  whole  side  up.  For 
apple  tarts,  cut  the  apples  in  even  quarters  or  eighths;  stew  them 
in  sweetened  water,  with  a  little  lemon-juice  added,  until  tender. 
Lay  them  overlapping  in  even  rows  or  circles  in  the  tart.  To  a 
cupful  of  water  in  which  the  apples  were  stewed  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  arrowroot,  and  cook  until  clear;  pour  it  over  the 
apples,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  nutmeg,  and  cinnamon.  With 
berries,  the  fruit  may  be  stewed  or  not  before  being  placed  in 
the  tart ;  then  strips  of  paste  are  laid  across  it,  like  lattice-work, 
and  the  paste  brushed  with  egg.  Bake  long  enough  to  cook 
the  fruit  and  the  strips  of  paste.  When  cold  place  a  fresh 
berry  on  each  piece  of  crust  where  it  crosses;  or  place  a  drop  of 
meringue  on  the  crusts,  and  the  berries  in  the  openings. 

The  California  canned  fruits,  costing  thirty-five  cents,  make 
very  good  pies.  One  can  of  fruit  will  make  two  pies.  Tart- 
rings  are  better  to  use  than  pie-tins,  as  the  sides  are  straight. 
Place  them  on  a  baking-sheet,  or  tin,  before  lining  them  with 
pastry. 

0BAN6E  PIE 

Juice  and  grated  yeUow     3  eggs. 

rind  of  1  orange.  1  cupful  of  granulated  sugar. 

§  cupful  of  milk.  1  tablespoonful  of  flour. 

^  saltspoonf  ul  of  salt. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  the  sugar  together;  add  the  flour,  the 
milk,  and  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  the  orange.  Place  it  on 
the  fire  in  a  double  boiler,  and  stir  until  it  is  a  little  thickened ; 
then  pour  it  into  an  open  or  tart  pie,  and  bake  thirty  minutes. 
The  crust  of  the  pie  should  be  brushed  with  white  of  egg  before 
adding  the  thickened  mixture.  The  tart  crust  may  be  first 
baked,  as  directed  above,  if  preferred.  Cover  the  top  with 
meringue  made  with  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  sweetened 
with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.    Pile  it  on  irregularly,  or 


454  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

press  it  through  a  pastry-bag  into  fancy  shapes.  Place  it  in  the 
oven  a  moment  to  brown.  A  little  more  flour  may  be  used  if 
the  pie  is  wanted  more  solid. 

A  PLAIN  APPLE  PIE 

Fill  a  pie  with  apples  sliced  thin,  using  enough  to  make  the 
pie  at  least  an  inch  thick  when  done.  Add  a  little  water  to  the 
apples,  and  cover  with  a  top  crust  which  is  a  little  richer  than 
the  under  one.  This  is  done  by  rolling  out  a  part  of  the  same 
paste,  covering  it  with  bits  of  butter,  folding  it  together,  and 
rolling  it  again,  repeating  the  operation  two  or  three  times. 
Cut  a  few  slits  in  the  paste  to  let  out  the  steam  while  cooking. 
Brush  the  top  with  beaten  yolk  of  egg. 

When  the  pie  is  baked,  and  while  it  is  still  hot,  lift  off  care- 
fully the  top  crust;  add  sugar,  nutmeg,  and  a  little  butter,  and 
mix  them  well  with  the  apples.  Replace  the  top  crust,  and 
dust  it  with  powdered  sugar.  Apple  pies  seasoned  in  this  way 
are  better  than  when  seasoned  before  being  baked. 

PUMPKIN  PIE 

Cut  a  pumpkin  into  small  pieces;  remove  the  soft  part  and 
seeds.  Cover  and  cook  it  slowly  in  its  own  steam  until  tender; 
then  remove  the  cover  and  reduce  it  almost  to  dryness,  using 
care  that  it  does  not  burn.  Press  it  through  a  colander.  To 
two  and  one  half  cupfuls  of  pulp  add  two  cupfuls  of  milk,  one 
teaspoonful  each  of  salt,  butter,  cinnamon,  and  ginger,  one 
tablespoonful  of  molasses,  two  eggs,  and  sugar  to  taste.  Add 
the  beaten  eggs  last  and  after  the  mixture  is  cold.  Pour  it 
into  an  open  crust  and  bake  slowly  forty  to  fifty  minutes. 
Squash  pies  are  made  in  the  same  way,  but  are  not  the  same 
in  flavor,  although  they  are  often  given  the  name  of  pumpkin 
pies. 

MINCE  PIE  MIXTURE 

3  pounds  of  lean  boiled  beef  chopped  fine,  or  half  beef  and 
half  boiled  tongue. 


PIES  AND  PUFF-PASTE  465 

li  pounds  of  suet  chopped  fine. 

3  quarts  of  apples  chopped  not  very  fine, 

1  quart  of  stoned  raisins. 

2  cupfuls  of  cleaned  currants. 

i  pound  of  citron  cut  into  thin  slices. 

1  cupful  of  candied  orange  and  lemon  peel  shredded. 

1  teaspoonful  each  of  cloves,  allspice  and  cinnamon. 
Grated  zest  and  juice  of  two  oranges  and  two  lemons. 

2  nutmegs  grated.  3  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

1  tablespoonf ul  of  salt.  3  cupfuls  of  brandy. 

1  cupful  of  molasses.  1  cupful  of  sherry. 

1  cupful  of  cider. 

Mix  the  meat  and  suet  together;  then  add  all  the  dry  in- 
gredients and  then  the  liquids.  Pack  in  an  earthen  jar.  It 
should  stand  several  days  before  using,  and  will  keep  an  in- 
definite time. 

The  pies  should  be  made  of  good  puff  paste  for  the  upper 
crust  and  tart  paste  for  the  under  one,  the  edge  having  three 
layers  as  directed  on  page  451.  The  filling  of  mince  meat 
should  be  one  and  a  half  inches  thick.  Paint  the  top  crust 
with  egg  and  trace  with  a  pointed  knife  some  simple  design  on 
it,  cutting  the  paste  very  slightly.  Bake  for  one  hour  and  a 
quarter.  Glaze  the  top  by  sifting  a  very  little  powdered  sugar 
over  it  a  few  minutes  before  removing  it  from  the  oven. 


CBEAH  PIE 

3  eggs,  1  teaspoonful  of  baking- 

1  cupful  of  sugar.  powder. 

1  cupful  of  flour. 

Sift  the  flour  and  baking-powder  together;  beat  the  yolks 
and  sugar  together;  add  the  flour  and  lastly  the  whipped 
whites  of  the  eggs.  Bake  this  cake  mixture  in  two  layers,  and 
place  between  them  when  cold,  and  just  before  serving,  a  thick 
layer  of  whipped  cream.    Have  the  top  piece  covered  with  a 


456  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

boiled  icing,  or  use  between  the  cakes  a  cream  filling  made  as 
follows : 

CREAM  FOR  FILLING. 

2J  cupfuls  of  milk.  f  cupful  of  sugar. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  1  egg. 

1  teaspoonf  ul  of  vanilla. 
Scald  the  milk ;  turn  it  onto  the  beaten  egg ;  return  it  to  the 
fire ;  add  the  flour  moistened  with  a  little  milk,  and  the  sugar, 
and  stir  until  thickened.    Let  it  cool  before  adding  it  to  the 
cake.    Serve  with  whipped  cream  if  desired. 

COCOANTIT  PIE 

Line  a  tin  basin  which  is  two  inches  deep  with  pie  paste,  and 
bake  it  as  directed  for  tart  pies  (page  452).  Make  a  custard  of 
one  pint  of  milk,  three  egg-yolks,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch.  Scald  the  milk  and  turn 
it  onto  the  yolks  and  sugar  beaten  together;  return  it  to  the 
fire ;  add  the  corn-starch  moistened  with  cold  milk,  and  stir  un- 
til well  thickened ;  add  one  half  teaspoonf  ul  of  vanilla,  and  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  whipped  to  a  froth  ;  cook  one  minute  to  set 
the  egg,  then  remove,  and  when  nearly  cold  and  stiffened  stir 
in  the  half  of  a  grated  cocoanut.  Brush  the  bottom  of  the 
baked  pie-crust  with  white  of  egg ;  cover  it  with  a  thin  layer  of 
grated  cocoanut  and  turn  in  the  thickened  custard.  Cover  the 
top  with  meringue  made  with  the  white  of  one  egg.  Return  it 
to  the  oven  one  minute  to  color  the  meringue.  Let  the  pie 
stand  long  enough  to  get  firm  and  cold  before  serving.  If  the 
grated  cocoanut  is  not  added  until  the  custard  has  stiffened,  it 
will  not  sink  to  the  bottom. 

CSANBEEBT  FIE 

Chop  one  cupful  of  cranberries  and  a  half  cupful  of  seeded 
raisins  together  into  small  pieces;  add  to  them  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  a  half  cupful  of  water,  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Bake  with  an  upper  and  under  crust. 
This  resembles  cherry  pie. 


PIES  AND  PUFF-PASTE  457 

WASHINGTON  PIE 

Make  two  round  layer  cakes,  of  sponge  or  of  Genoese  cake ; 
spread  between  them  a  layer  of  pastry  cream  or  of  chocolate 
filling.  Dust  the  top  with  powdered  sugar  in  crossed  lines  to 
imitate  strips  of  pastry. 

Pastry  Cream  —  Boil  with  a  pint  of  milk  or  water  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar ;  add  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  corn-starch,  the 
yolks  of  five  eggs,  and  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  butter ;  stir  until  thick- 
ened, add  flavoring,  and  when  partly  cool  spread  it  on  the  cake. 

Chocolate  Filling — Mix  a  half  cupful  of  milk  and  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved ;  then  add  an  ounce 
of  shaved  chocolate,  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggsj  stir 
until  it  is  thickened ;  flavor  with  one  half  teaspoonf  ul  of  vanilla, 
and  let  it  partly  cool  before  spreading  it  on  the  cake. 


PUFF-PASTE 

It  is  a  mistake  to  consider  the  making  of  puff-paste  too  diffi- 
cult for  any  but  an  experienced  cook  to  undertake.  No  one  need 
hesitate  to  attempt  it,  and  if  the  few  simple  rules  are  strictly 
observed  there  will  be  success.  The  materials  are  few  and  in- 
expensive, and  within  the  compass  of  the  most  moderate  house- 
hold. If  light,  good  pastry  can  be  substituted  for  the  sodden 
crust  of  the  ordinary  pie,  it  will  be  found  not  only  more  palat- 
able, but  far  more  digestible  and  wholesome.  Confections  of 
puff-paste  can  be  served  on  all  occasions,  and  always  make  an 
acceptable  dish,  whereas  ordinary  pastry  is  excluded  from  any 
but  the  most  informal  service. 

GENERAL  RULES 

The  most  important  rule  for  making  puff-paste,  and  the  se- 
cret of  success,  is  to  have  cold  paste  and  a  hot  oven.  It  is  well 
to  have  a  marble  slab  to  roll  it  on,  but  this  is  not  positively 


458  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

essential.  A  warm,  damp  day  should  be  avoided.  The  paste 
will  keep  on  ice  for  a  day  or  two  before  it  is  baked,  and  for 
several  days  in  a  dry  place  after  it  is  baked,  and  if  placed  in 
the  oven  for  a  few  moments  just  before  serving,  it  will  have  the 
same  crispness  as  when  just  baked.  If  there  is  no  room  colder 
than  the  kitchen  to  work  in  when  mixing  the  paste,  stand  by  an 
open  window  or  in  a  current  of  air,  for  it  is  necessary  to  keep 
the  paste  cold  during  the  whole  time  of  preparing  it.  Use 
pastry  flour  if  convenient  (Plant's  St.  Louis  Flour).  It  can 
be  obtained  at  all  first-class  grocers.  It  has  a  very  fine  grain, 
and  can  easily  be  distinguished  from  ordinary  flour  by  rubbing 
a  little  between  the  thumb  and  forefinger. 

EECEIPT  FOR  PUFF-PASTE 

J  pound  or  1  cupful  of  butter.         ^  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

^  pound  or  2  cupf uls  of  flour.  i  to  J  cupful  of  ice- water. 

1st.  Put  the  butter  in  a  bowl  of  ice-water,  and  work  it  with 
the  hand  until  it  becomes  smooth  and  flexible ;  then  place  it  in 
a  napkin  and  knead  it  a  little  to  free  it  from  moisture.  Pat  it 
into  a  flat  square  cake,  and  place  it  on  the  ice  until  ready  to 
use. 

2d.  Sift  the  flour  and  salt  together  on  a  board  or  marble  slab ; 
reserve  a  little  flour  to  be  used  for  dusting  the  slab.  Make 
a  well  in  the  center,  and  pour  in  a  part  of  the  water.  Work  in 
the  flour,  and  use  enough  water  to  make  a  smooth  paste.  The 
exact  amount  of  water  cannot  be  given,  as  at  certain  times  the 
flour  absorbs  more  than  at  others.  Gather  in  all  the  crumbs, 
and  work  the  paste  as  you  would  bread  dough  until  it  becomes 
smooth.  Roll  it  in  a  napkin,  and  place  it  on  ice  for  fifteen 
minutes,  that  it  may  become  thoroughly  cold. 

3d.  Sprinkle  the  slab  lightly  with  fiour.  Roll  the  cold  paste 
into  a  square  piece ;  place  the  cold  butter  in  the  center,  and 
fold  the  paste  over  it,  first  from  the  sides  and  then  the  ends, 
keeping  the  shape  square,  and  folding  so  the  butter  is  com- 
pletely incased,  and  cannot  escape  through  the  folds  when 


Tiiiti.i;  i'\Ns  ai;i;aN(U;i)  lou  chilling  puif  PArtXi;  — thk  ipi'kk  and  lndek 

»)N1>   HOLDING  IKAOKKU   ICE,  THE   CENTEK   ONE    HOLDING  THE   PASTE 
WRAPPED  IN  A  NAPKIN. 


PATE  SHELLS. 


PIES  AND  PUFF-PASTE  459 

rolled.  This  must  "be  absolutely  guarded  against  at  all  times, 
and  can  be  prevented  if  the  paste  is  rolled  evenly  and  folded 
properly.  Turn  the  folded  side  down,  and  with  a  rolling-pin 
roll  it  lightly  away  from  you  into  a  long,  narrow  strip,  keeping 
it  as  even  as  possible.  Fold  it  over,  making  three  even  layers 
of  paste.  This  is  called  "giving  it  one  turn";  then  roll  the 
folded  strip  again,  and  fold  as  before.  This  must  be  repeated 
until  it  has  had  six  turns,  which  is  as  many  as  it  should  receive 
to  give  it  its  greatest  lightness.  After  each  turn,  if  it  shows 
signs  of  softening,  otherwise  after  each  two  turns,  wrap 
the  paste  in  a  napkin,  and  place  it  in  a  pan,  which  should  be 
placed  between  two  other  pans  containing  cracked  ice,  and  let 
it  remain  there  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  Great  care  must  be 
used  in  rolling  the  paste  to  keep  the  edges  even,  so  that  the 
layers  will  be  even,  and  to  roll  lightly  and  always  away  from 
you,  so  as  not  to  break  the  air-bubbles  which  give  the  lightness 
to  the  paste.  The  rolling  is  made  easier  by  lightly  pounding 
as  well  as  rolling  the  paste.  After  each  folding  press  the  edges 
gently  with  the  rolling-pin  to  shut  in  the  air,  and  turn  the  paste 
so  as  to  roll  in  a  different  direction.  The  paste  should  slip  on 
the  slab.  If  it  does  not,  it  sticks,  and  must  be  put  on  the  ice 
at  once.  When  it  has  had  six  turns  cut  it  into  the  desired 
forms,  and  place  again  on  the  ice  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes 
before  putting  it  in  the  oven.  The  trimmings,  put  together  and 
rolled,  make  a  good  bottom  crust  for  tart  bands,  or  a  top  crust 
for  mince  pies. 

The  baking  of  puff-paste  is  as  important  a  matter  as  the  roll- 
ing. The  oven  must  be  very  hot,  with  the  greatest  heat  at  the 
bottom,  so  the  paste  may  rise  before  it  begins  to  brown ;  there- 
fore put  it  on  the  bottom  of  the  oven  and  lay  a  paper  on  the 
shelf  for  a  few  minutes.  Do  not  open  the  door  for  the  first  five 
minutes.  It  is  essential  to  have  the  oven  very  hot.  It  must 
not,  however,  scorch  the  paste,  and  if  it  scorches  open  the 
draughts  at  once,  and  place  a  basin  of  ice-water  in  the  oven  to 
lower  the  temperature.  The  amount  given  in  this  receipt 
makes  about  six  p§,t6  shells  or  one  vol-au-vent  case. 


460  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

fAte  shells 

Roll  puff-paste  wMch  has  had  six  turns  to  a  quarter-inch 
thickness ;  cut  it  into  circles  with  a  fluted  or  plain  cutter  two 
and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter.  It  should  be  icy-cold  when 
cut,  for  if  it  sticks  on  one  side  it  will  not  rise  evenly.  From  one 
half  the  circles  cut  a  hole  in  the  center  with  a  cutter  one  inch  in 
diameter.  Moisten  the  edges  of  the  whole  circles,  and  place  on 
them  the  rings.  Brush  over  the  top  with  egg.  (This  is  to  glaze 
them,  and  the  egg  must  not  touch  the  edges.)  Place  them  on  the 
ice  for  half  an  hour,  then  bake  in  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 
Bake  the  small  circles  cut  from  the  center  on  a  separate  tin,  as 
they  do  not  require  as  much  time ;  when  baked  pick  out  from 
the  center  any  uncooked  paste.  Use  the  small  pieces  for  covers 
after  the  cases  are  filled.  If  preferred,  roll  the  paste  one  half 
inch  thick,  and  with  the  small  cutter  cut  half-way  through  the 
paste.  When  baked  lift  off  the  inner  circle,  and  remove  the 
uncooked  paste  from  the  interior. 

TABT  BAin)S 

Make  a  good  short  paste,  using  the  receipt  for  tart  paste. 
Roll  it  one  eighth  inch  thick,  and  cut  it  into  a  circle  six  inches  in 
diameter,  using  a  basin  for  guide.  "Wet  the  edges  and  lay  around 
it  a  band  of  puff-paste  cut  in  a  strip  one  and  one  half  inches 
wide  and  one  quarter  inch  thick.  Place  the  strip  neatly  and 
carefully  around  the  edge,  using  care  not  to  press  it ;  cut  the 
edges  that  are  to  join  in  a  sharp  diagonal  line,  and  moisten  them 
so  they  will  adhere.  Prick  the  bottom  crust  in  many  places  with 
a  fork  to  prevent  its  puffing  up  j  brush  the  top  of  the  band  with 
egg,  but  do  not  let  the  egg  touch  the  edges ;  let  it  rest  on  ice 
for  half  an  hour,  then  bake  in  hot  oven  thirty  to  forty  minutes. 

When  ready  to  serve  fill  it  with  jam,  preserves,  puree,  or  any 
other  mixture  used  for  tart  pies. 

These  tarts  are  very  good,  and  can  "be  served  where  pies  would 
not  be  admissible. 


PIES  AND  PUPF-PASTE  461 

MILLEFEUIILES 

Roll  puff-paste  turned  six  times  to  the  tMckness  of  one  half 
inch ;  cut  it  with  a  pastry  wheel  into  pieces  three  inches  long 
and  one  inch  wide.  Brush  the  tops  of  the  pieces  with  egg,  and 
sprinkle  them  with  sugar.  Let  them  stand  on  ice  one  half  hour, 
and  then  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  or  until  well 
browned ;  these  are  served  in  place  of  cakes.  Or,  cut  the  paste 
three  and  a  half  inches  long  and  two  inches  wide,  and  when 
baked  place  two  pieces  together  with  a  thin  layer  of  apricot 
jam  between  them,  and  cover  the  top  with  meringue.  These 
are  served  as  a  dessert  dish  for  luncheon. 

TARTLETS 

Cut  puff -paste  into  rings  the  same  as  for  pfi,t6  shells.  Use 
tart  paste  for  the  under  crust.  After  they  are  baked  fill  the 
center  with  pineapple,  with  any  preserves,  or  with  apple  pur6e 
covered  with  apricot  jam. 

FAGANDTI  TARTLETS 

Roll  puff-paste  one  eighth  inch  thick;  cut  it  with  a  pastry 
wheel  into  squares  of  three  and  a  half  to  four  inches.  Turn  the 
points  together  in  the  middle,  and  press  them  down  lightly. 
Bake ;  then  put  a  spoonful  of  jam  in  the  center  of  each,  and 
cover  the  jam  with  meringue;  place  them  in  the  oven  a  moment 
to  brown. 

TO  GLAZE  PASTRY 

Take  an  egg  and  one  tablespoonful  of  water,  and  beat  the 
egg  enough  to  break  it,  but  not  enough  to  make  it  froth.  The 
yolk  alone  may  be  used  with  the  water,  but  the  white  alone  will 
not  give  it  color.  Brush  it  lightly  over  the  pastry,  using  a  brush 
or  quill-feather,  and  dust  it  with  a  very  little  sugar.  This  will 
give  a  brown  and  polished  surface  to  the  pastry. 

When  two  layers  of  pastry  are  to  be  stuck  together,  brush  the 
top  of  one  with  water,  and  lay  the  other  on  it  before  baking 
them. 


Tire. 


Chapter  XXI 

CAKE 

The  most  difiBcult  part  of  cake-making  is  the  bak- 
Baking.     ing.    Unless  the  oven  is  right,  the  cake  wUl  be  a  fail- 
ure, no  matter  how  carefully  it  may  have  been  mixed. 

RULES 

Have  everything  ready  before  beginning  to  mix  the 
cake. 

Have  the  weights  and  measures  exact. 

Have  the  fire  so  it  will  last  through  the  baking,  and 
the  heat  of  the  oven  just  right  (see  below),  for  on  this 
the  success  of  the  cake  mostly  depends. 

Do  not  mix  the  cake  until  the  oven  is  entirely  ready 
for  it  to  go  in. 

Sift  the  flour  before  measuring  it. 

If  baking-powder  or  cream  of  tartar  is  used,  sift  it 
with  the  flour. 

Mix  in  an  earthen  bowl  with  a  wooden  spoon. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs  separately. 

Grease  the  tins  with  lard,  as  butter  blackens. 

For  some  cakes  it  is  better  to  line  the  pans  with 
paper. 
Frnit  When  fruit  is  used,  roll  it  in  flour,  and  add  it  the 

last  thing. 

If  the  fruit  is  wanted  in  layers,  add  it  while  the 
mixture  is  being  poured  into  the  tins. 
Salt  Add  one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  all  cakes. 

462 


CAKE 


463 


If  a  sugary  crust  is  wanted,  sprinkle  the  top  with 
sugar  before  the  cake  is  baked. 

If  the  cake  cracks  open  as  it  rises,  too  much  flour 
has  been  used. 

If  it  rises  in  a  cone  in  the  center,  the  oven  is  too 
hot. 

Beating  eggs  and  butter  makes  them  light,  beating 
flour  makes  it  tough  j  hence  the  rule  to  add  it  last. 

When  the  whipped  whites  are  added  do  not  stir, 
but  turn  or  fold  them  in  lightly,  so  as  not  to  break 
the  air-cells. 

In  filling  the  pans  let  the  mixture  be  a  little  higher 
on  the  sides  than  in  the  middle. 

When  molasses  is  used,  baking-powder  (also  cream 
of  tartar)  must  be  omitted,  and  soda  alone  used  for 
raising  the  cake. 

One  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  is  the  equivalent 
of  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  one  half 
teaspoonful  of  soda. 


Sugary 
cnist. 

Cause  of 
oracking. 

Uneven 
rising. 

Beating. 

Adding 

wMteof 

egg. 

Fans,  how 

fiUed. 

Soda  and 
baking 
powder. 


Equiva- 
lents. 


HOW  TO  BEAT  EGGS 

Place  the  whites  on  a  flat  dish,  being  careful  that  Whites, 
not  a  particle  of  the  yolk  gets  in.  Add  a  pinch  of 
salt,  and  with  a  daisy  beater  held  flat  whip  the  whites 
with  an  upward  motion  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth.  It  will 
take  but  a  very  few  minutes  if  the  eggs  are  fresh  and 
cold.  Put  the  yolks  in  an  earthen  bowl,  and  with  Yolks, 
a  wooden  or  silver  spoon  beat  them  until  a  lemon 
color.  If  sugar  is  used  add  it  at  this  time,  and  stir 
until  the  whole  becomes  light  and  creamy. 


HOW  TO  LINE  TINS   WITH  PAPER 

Turn  the  tin  bottom  side  up,  lay  over  it  the  paper, 
and  crease  the  circle  for  the  bottom.  Cut  the  paper 
in  several  places  down  to  the  circular  mark,  fold  it 


464 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


Flooring 
tiiUi 


around  the  pan,  and  cut  away  the  paper  that  doubles 
over.  Grease  the  paper,  and  fit  it  neatly  inside  the 
pan,  leaving  an  inch  of  paper  rising  above  the  edge. 

HOW  TO  GREASE  PANS 

Warm  the  pan,  and  with  a  brush  spread  evenly  the 
lard  or  cottolene.  For  flat  tins  to  be  used  for  small 
cakes,  brush  them  lightly  with  oil;  then  with  a  paper 
or  cloth  rub  them  dry,  and  sprinkle  with  flour.  Jar 
them  so  the  flour  wiU  completely  cover  them;  then 
turn  over  the  tins,  and  strike  them  against  the  table. 
All  the  superfluous  flour  will  fall,  leaving  the  tins 
lightly  coated  with  flour.  This  will  give  a  clean  sur- 
face to  the  bottom  of  the  cake. 


Hioing. 


^me. 


HOW  TO  BAKE  CAKE 

The  oven  should  be  only  moderately  hot  at  first,  so 
that  the  cake  can  get  heated  through,  and  can  rise 
before  forming  a  crust;  the  heat  should  then  be  in- 
creased, so  that  when  the  cake  has  been  in  the  oven 
one  half  the  time  required  for  baking  a  light  crust 
will  be  formed.  It  should  rise  evenly,  and  be  smooth 
on  top.  When  it  rises  in  a  cone  in  the  center  it  is 
because  the  oven  is  too  hot,  and  a  crust  has  formed 
on  the  edges  before  it  has  had  time  to  rise.  Some- 
times it  rises  on  one  side,  showing  the  oven  is  hotter 
on  one  side  than  the  other,  in  which  case  it  should  be 
turned  or  a  screen  interposed;  but  it  must  be  done  with 
the  greatest  care.  Moving  or  jarring  the  cake  before 
the  air-cells  are  fixed  is  almost  sure  to  cause  it  to  fall. 
Do  not  open  the  oven  door  for  the  first  five  minutes, 
and  then  open  and  shut  it  very  gently,  so  as  not  to 
jar  the  cake.  Cake  takes  from  fifteen  minutes  to  an 
hour  to  bake,  according  to  its  kind  and  thickness.  A 
hotter  oven  is  needed  for  a  thin  cake  than  for  a  thick 
one.    It  is  done  when  it  shrinks  from  the  pan,  and 


CAKE  465 

makes  no  singing  noise ;  or  when  a  broom  straw  run 
into  it  comes  out  clean  and  smooth.  Be  sure  the 
cake  is  done  before  removing  it  from  the  oven.  Let 
it  stand  a  few  minutes  in  the  tin,  and  it  will  then 
come  out  easily.  Always  handle  the  cake  carefuUy. 
The  following  test  for  the  oven  is  given  by  Miss 
Parloa.  Put  in  a  piece  of  white  paper.  If  at  the  end  ^^^  ^^^ 
of  five  minutes  the  paper  is  a  rich  yellow  color,  the  the  oven, 
oven  is  right  for  sponge-cake;  if  light  yellow,  it  is  too 
cool;  if  dark  brown,  too  hot.  For  pound  or  butter- 
cakes,  it  should  be  light  yellow  at  the  end  of  five  min- 
utes. For  gingerbreads  and  thin  rolled  cakes,  it 
should  be  dark  brown. 

MIXING  SPONGE-CAKES 

Cream  the  yolks  and  sugar  together.  Add  the  fla- 
voring and  water;  then  fold  in  the  beaten  whites,  and 
lastly  the  flour,  sprinkling  it  in,  and  lightly  folding, 
not  stirring  it  in.  If  baking-powder  is  used,  it  is 
mixed  with  the  flour. 

MIXING  CAKE  MADE  WITH  BUTTER 

Rub  the  butter  until  it  is  light  and  smooth.  Add 
the  sugar,  and  stir  until  creamy.  If  there  is  too  much 
sugar  to  mix  with  the  butter,  beat  one  half  with  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs.  Add  the  beaten  yolks  to  the 
creamed  butter  and  sugar.  (If  only  a  little  butter  is 
used  melt  it,  and  add  it  to  the  yolks  and  sugar.) 
Next  add  the  flavoring,  and  then  the  milk  and  flour 
alternately,  until  all  are  in.  Beat  the  batter  a  few 
minutes  to  give  it  fine  grain  ;  then  fold  in  the  whipped 
whites  of  the  eggs  lightly.  If  fruit  is  used,  flour  and 
add  it  the  last  thing.  Turn  it  into  the  pans,  and  put 
it  at  once  into  a  moderate  oven.* 

*  Cake  made  with  butter  needs  to  have  the  dough  quite  thick  with 
flour,  as  the  butter  when  melted  acts  as  a  wetting. 
80 


466  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

SPONGE-CAKE  No.  1 

6  eggs.  2   teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 

3  cupfuls  of  sugar.  ing-powder. 

4  cupfuls  of  flour.  Juice  and  grated  rind  of 
1  cupful  of  cold  water.  1  lemon. 

^  teaspoonf  ul  of  salt. 

In  this  cake  the  beaten  whites  are  added  last.  The  baking- 
powder  mixed  with  the  flour  is  added  to  the  yolks,  sugar,  and 
flavoring.  This  is  a  good  cake  to  use  for  layer-cakes  or  rolls. 
It  is  sufficient  for  two  loaves. 

SPONGE-CAKE  No.  2 

"Weigh  any  number  of  eggs ;  take  the  same  weight  of  sugar 
and  one  half  the  weight  of  flour ;  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of 
one  lemon  to  five  eggs.  For  mixing  this  cake,  see  the  direc- 
tions given  above ;  the  mixture  should  be  very  light  and  spongy, 
great  care  being  used  not  to  break  down  the  whipped  whites. 
The  oven  should  be  moderate  at  first,  and  the  heat  increased 
after  a  time.  The  cake  must  not  be  moved  or  jarred  while 
baking.  The  time  wiU  be  forty  to  fifty  minutes,  according  to 
size  of  loaf.  Use  powdered  sugar  for  sponge-cake.  Rose-water 
makes  a  good  flavoring  when  a  change  from  lemon  is  wanted. 
Almonds  chopped  fine  mixed  in  the  cake,  and  also  orange  rind 
grated  over  the  cake  before  it  is  frosted,  are  good. 

SPONGE-CAKE  No.  3 

10  eggs,  ^  pound  of  flour. 

1  pound  of  powdered  sugar.     Juice  and  grated  rind 

of  i  lemon. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  together  for  at  least  half  an  hour. 
It  will  not  be  right  unless  thoroughly  beaten ;  add  the  lemon, 
then  the  whites  beaten  very  stiff,  and  the  flour  last ;  sprinkle 
the  top  with  sugar.  Put  it  at  once  into  a  moderate  oven.  This 
is  a  moist  cake  and  has  a  thick  crust. 


GAUFKHE   IKON.      (SKK   l'A(  HO  47'.».) 


PLAIN  CUl'  CAKES  ICED  AND  SMALL  PIECE  OF  ANGELICA  PLACED  IN  CENTER  OP 

EACH  CAKE. 


CAKE  467 

WHITE  SPONGE,  OR  ANGEL  CAKE 

WMtes  of  6  eggs.  1  cupful  of  flour. 

f  cupful  of  granulated  sugar.      ^  teaspoonf ul  of  vanilla. 
^  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Put  the  cream  of  tartar  into  the  flour  and  sift  it  five  or  six 
times ;  sift  the  sugar  twice.  Put  a  pinch  of  salt  with  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  and  whip  them  very  stiff;  add  the  sugar  to  the 
whipped  whites,  placing  it  on  the  end  of  the  platter  and  gradu- 
ally beating  it  in  from  below ;  add  the  flour  in  the  same  way, 
and  lastly  add  the  flavoring.  Do  not  stop  beating  after  the 
mixing  is  begun,  and  keep  the  mixture  light.  Bake  it  in  a  per- 
fectly bright  ungreased  pan,  or  one  lined. with  paper;  a  pan 
with  a  tube  in  the  center  is  best.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
thirty  to  forty  minutes.  Do  not  move  or  jar  it  while  it  is 
baking.  Try  it  with  a  broom-straw  before  removing  it  from 
the  oven,  and  do  not  let  it  get  too  deeply  colored.  Let  it  stand 
in  the  pan  a  few  minutes,  then  loosen  it  around  the  sides,  and 
it  will  fall  out.  Turn  the  cake  upside  down  and  ice  the  bottom 
and  sides  if  desired.  The  usual  receipt  is  double  the  above 
quantities,  eleven  eggs  being  used,  but  this  one  gives  a  cake 
large  enough  to  serve  six  people,  and  as  it  should  be  used  while 
it  is  very  fresh,  it  is  better  not  to  make  more  than  enough  to 
serve  once.  It  can  be  made  with  five  eggs  and  is  very  good,  but 
not  quite  as  spongy.  Do  not  cut  the  cake,  but  break  it  apart 
with  two  forks.* 

SUNSHINE  CAKE 

Make  the  same  as  angel  cake,  adding  the  beaten  yolks  of  two 
eggs  before  putting  in  the  flour. 

GENOESE   CAKE 

Three  eggs,  and  the  same  weight  of  butter,  of  sugar,  and 
of  flour.  Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  very 
light  and  creamy;  add  one  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  flavor- 
ing (one  half  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  almond,  or  one  table- 

*  If  baked  too  fast  this  cate  will  be  tough.  It  Is  well  to  set  the  cake-pan  In  a  pan 
of  water  tn  the  oven. 


468  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

spoonful  of  brandy) ;  then  add  the  eggs  one  at  a  time  and  beat 
each  one  well  before  adding  the  next.  Beat  the  mixture  for 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes ;  then  stir  in  lightly  the  sifted  flour 
and  turn  it  into  a  pan,  filling  it  three  quarters  full.  This  cake 
can  be  used  for  layers,  rolls,  canary  pudding,  or  can  be  cut  into 
small  forms  for  fancy  cakes.   Bake  slowly  about  forty  minutes. 

JELLT  BOLLS 

Make  a  layer  of  Genoese,  or  of  sponge-cake  No.  1.  Put  the 
mixtui'e  on  the  layer  tins  in  spoonfuls,  placing  it  around  the 
edges }  then  with  a  broad  knife  smooth  it  over  toward  the  middle, 
making  it  as  even  as  possible.  Another  way  is  to  press  it 
through  a  pastry  bag  in  lines  onto  the  tins.  The  layers  should 
be  only  one  half  inch  thick  when  baked,  and  the  crust  should 
not  be  hard.  As  soon  as  it  is  removed  from  the  oven,  and  before 
it  has  had  time  to  cool,  cut  off  the  hard  edges,  spread  it  with 
currant,  or  any  jelly  or  jam,  and  roll  it  up  evenly ;  then  roll  it 
in  a  paper  and  tie,  so  it  wiU  cool  in  a  round,  even  shape. 

LAYEE  CAKES:  CHOCOLATE,  VANILLA,  COFFEE 

Bake  Genoese  or  sponge-cake  No.  1  (one  half  the  receipt  will 
give  three  layers)  in  round  layer  tins,  using  three  for  each 
cake;  when  baked  spread  two  of  them  with  filling  and  pile 
them  one  on  the  other.  Trim  the  outside  with  a  sharp  knife  so 
it  will  show  a  white  even  edge  instead  of  crust.  Cover  the  top 
with  a  soft  royal  icing  made  of  confectioners'  sugai*  and  flavored 
the  same  as  the  filling. 

CREAM  TILLmG 

Beat  well  together  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  one  half  cupful  of 
sugar,  and  one  heaping  tablespoonf ul  of  cornstarch ;  dilute  it 
with  two  cupfuls  of  boiling  milk,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until 
thickened ;  then  remove,  add  the  flavoring,  and  let  it  cool.  If 
coffee  flavoring  is  wanted,  use  one  half  black  coffee  and  one 
half  milk.  If  chocolate,  melt  three  or  four  ounces  and  add  it  to 
the  custard. 


CAKE  469 

CHOCOLATE  FILLIlfG 

Melt  four  ounces  of  chocolate;  dilute  it  with  three  tahle- 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  and  then  add  a  cupful  of  sugar  mixed  with  a 
well-beaten  egg,  and  stir  until  thickened. 

ORANGE  CAKE 

Whites  of  9  eggs.  1  cupful  of  butter. 

2  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar.  1  cupful  of  milk. 

3  heaping  cupfuls  of  flour  sifted  2    teaspoonfuls    of    baking- 
three  or  foui*  times.  powder. 

1  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice. 

Cream  the  butter ;  add  the  sugar,  and  beat  for  ten  minutes ; 
add  the  milk,  and  then  add  alternately  the  whipped  eggs  and 
the  flour,  the  baking-powder  having  been  sifted  with  the  flour ; 
add  the  lemon-juice  last,  and  mix  all  lightly.  Bake  in  layer 
tins;  spread  the  layers  with  orange  filling  and  frost  the  top 
with  royal  icing  flavored  with  orange- juice  and  a  little  lemon. 

OBANGE  FILLING 

Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Boil  one  and  one 
quarter  cupfuls  of  sugar  with  one  half  cupful  of  water  to  the  small 
ball  (see  page  512).  Pour  the  boiling  sugar  in  a  very  fine  stream 
onto  the  whipped  whites,  beating  hard  all  the  time.  Add  the 
grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  orange  and  continue  to  beat  until 
it  is  cold  and  the  sugar  is  stiffened  enough  to  place  between  the 
cakes  without  running. 

PISTACHIO  CAKE 

Make  three  layers  of  cake  after  the  receipt  given  for  orange 
cake.  Make  a  cream  filling  as  directed  for  layer  cakes.  Flavor 
it  with  orange-flower  water  and  a  little  bitter  almond,  to  give 
the  flavor  of  pistachio  (see  page  391),  and  color  it  a  delicate  green. 
Frost  the  top  with  a  soft  royal  icing  (page  484)  made  of  con- 
fectioners' sugar ;  color  it  a  delicate  light  green  and  sprinkle  the 


470  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

top  with  chopped  pistachio  nuts.     This  cake  is  rather  soft  and 
creamy,  and  should  not  be  cut  before  going  on  the  table. 

FLAOr  CUP  CAKE 

J  cupful  of  butter.  2  teaspoonf uls  of  baking 

IJ  cupfuls  of  sugar.  powder. 

1  cupful  of  water  or  milk.  4  eggs. 

3  cupfuls  of  flour.  Juice  and  rind  of  1  lemon. 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream ;  add  the  beaten  yolks ; 
then  add  slowly  the  water  and  three  quarters  of  the  flour.  Beat 
it  a  long  time  until  very  smooth  and  light ;  then  add  the  lemon 
and  the  rest  of  the  flour  in  which  the  baking-powder  is  mixed ; 
beat  well  together,  and  lastly  add  the  whipped  whites  of  the 
eggs.  Bake  in  gem-pans,  putting  a  tablespoonful  of  the  mix- 
ture into  each  pan.  Raisins  may  be  added  to  this  cake,  or  two 
ounces  of  melted  chocolate  may  be  used  instead  of  the  lemon- 
juice,  making  it  chocolate  cake ;  or  it  may  be  made  into  spice 
cakes  by  using  two  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses  with  enough 
water  to  give  one  cupful  of  liquid ;  add  also  one  half  teaspoonf ul 
each  of  ground  cloves,  cinnamon,  and  allspice,  and  a  few  cm*- 
rants  if  desired;  use  one  teaspoonf  ul  of  soda  instead  of  the 
baking-powder  if  molasses  is  used.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
about  one  half  hour,  and  see  that  the  cakes  rise  evenly  and  are 
of  the  same  size.  Turn  them  out  of  the  pans  bottom  side  up, 
and  frost  the  bottom  and  sides  with  royal  icing  while  they  are 
still  warm.    For  chocolate  or  spice  cakes,  use  chocolate  icing. 

GOLD-AND-SILVEB  CAKE 

Use  the  receipt  given  for  plain  cup  cake.  Divide  the  materials ; 
use  the  whites  of  the  eggs  with  one  part,  the  yolks  and  one 
whole  egg  with  the  other.  Bake  in  separate  tins ;  cut  before 
serving ;  an*ange  the  slices  with  the  two  colors  alternating  on  a 
lace  paper. 

MARBLE   CAKE 

Make  a  mixture  as  directed  for  plain  cup  cake ;  divide  it  into 
three  parts ;  color  one  with  carmine,  another  with  melted  choco- 


CAKE  471 

late  (one  ounce),  and  leave  the  third  one  white.  Do  this  quickly, 
so  the  baking-powder  will  not  lose  its  force  before  going  into 
the  oven.  Pour  the  mixtures  into  a  tin,  alternating  the  colors 
twice  5  they  will  run  together  and  make  a  mottled  cake. 

BIGHEB  GUP;   OB,  1,  2,  3,  4  CAEE 

Use  one  cup  of  butter,  two  of  sugar,  three  of  flour,  and  four 
eggs,  and  one  half  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Mix  as  directed  for 
butter-cake  mixtures  (page  465). 

POUND-CAKE 

Use  one  pound  each  of  butter,  sugar,  and  flour ;  ten  eggs ; 
one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  mace  and  one  half  cupful  of  brandy. 
Mix  as  directed  for  butter-cake  mixtures.  Divide  it  into  two 
loaves  and  bake  in  tins  lined  with  paper  forty  to  fifty  minutes 
in  a  moderate  oven.  This  cake  may  be  filled  with  sliced  citron 
and  raisins  if  desired,  or  may  have  nuts  mixed  with  it,  making 
a  nut  cake,  or  some  nuts  may  be  sprinkled  over  the  top  before 
it  goes  in  the  oven. 

WHITE  CAKE 

Whites  of  6  eggs.  2  cupf uls  of  flour. 

f  cupful  of  butter.  Juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

IJ  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar.     |  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Sift  the  soda  with  the  flour  three  times ;  cream  the  butter  and 
add  the  flour  to  it ;  whip  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  add  the 
sugar,  then  beat  them  gradually  into  the  butter  and  flour,  and 
add  the  lemon-juice.  When  it  is  thoroughly  mixed  and  smooth 
put  it  into  a  biscuit  or  flat  tin,  so  it  will  make  a  layer  one  and 
a  half  inches  thick  when  done.  Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven ; 
while  it  is  still  warm  spread  it  with  royal  icing  (see  page  483). 
Before  the  icing  fully  hardens,  meirk  two  lines  down  the  length 
of  the  cake,  dividing  it  into  three  sections,  then  across  in  even 
lines,  giving  slices  one  inch  broad  and  about  two  and  a  half 
inches  long ;  to  do  this  hold  over  it  a  straight  edge  and  mark  it 
with  the  back  of  a  knife.  Put  into  a  pastry  bag  some  of  the 
frosting,  made  a  little  stiffer  with  sugar,  and  place  two  dots  of 


472 


THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 


icing  on  each  slice.  This  cake  may  be  made  with  "baking- 
powder,  using  one  teaspoonful  and  mixing  it  in  the  usual  way. 
It  will  then  be  a  lighter  cake  and  should  be  baked  in  a  loaf  j  the 
first  gives  a  fii*m,  fine-grained  cake. 

PLAIN  rHUIT  CAKE 


H 


/  f  cupful  of  butter.  \ 

<  2  cupfuls  of  granulated  > 
(      sugar.  ) 

I  3  eggs. 

^  1  teaspoonful  of  allspice. 
^  teaspoonful  of  grated 

nutmeg. 
^  teaspoonful  of  ground 

cloves. 
J  teaspoonful  of  ground 
V     mace. 


Cream  these  together  well. 

^  1  cupful  of  milk  with  f 
4  <      teaspoonful  of  soda  dis- 
(      solved  in  it. 
3  cupfuls  of   sifted  flour 
with  1   teaspoonful  of 
cream  of  tartar  mixed 
in  it. 
g  (  1  cupful  of  sliced  citron. 
(  2  cupfuls  of  raisins. 

Mix  the  materials  in  the  order  given,  beating  well  each  one 
before  the  next  is  added  ;  add  part  of  the  flour  and  the  milk  at 
the  same  time,  then  the  rest  of  the  flour.  Flour  the  fruit  and 
add  it  last.  More  fruit  can  be  used  if  desired.  This  will  make 
one  large  or  a  dozen  small  cakes.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
about  one  hour  if  in  one  cake. 


BBOD  TORTE 


9  eggs. 

2J  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

2  cupfuls  of  bread-crumbs- 

Graham  preferred. 
2  teaspoonfuls  of  ground 

cinnamon. 

1  teaspoonful  of  ground  allspice. 

Put  into  a  bowl  the  bread-crumbs,  dried  and  pounded  fine, 
the  citron  and  almonds  both  chopped  fine,  the  spices  and  lemon- 


Citron  size  of  Small  egg. 
f  cupful  of  blanched  almonds. 
Grated  rind  of  one  lemon. 
J  cupful  of  brandy  or  rum. 
2J  ounces  of  chocolate. 


ICED  CAKE  DECORATED  WITH  CANDIED   CHERRIES   CUT  IN  HALVES,  ANGELICA 
CUT  INTO  TRIANGULAR  PIECES,   AND  A  SCALLOPED  LINE  OF  ICING. 


m 

1 

w 

^^^^6 

f^^^^S^^^§£.'  '^'^mfli^HEKk 

'^^       ' 

P^  "\    »:;'»•», 

\^li*^^ffi^w|                                                  jlHj^ 

f  "    ;--1 

^^T 

1 

"^ 

m 

■  -%- 

; 

CAKE  COVERED    \N  ITll   (IK  M  ( )l.  \l  I.    H  1\(!    AM>    ORNAMENTED  IN  CENTER  WITH 

I.IM'.S  OK    \S  11]  11-.    il  1N(,. 


1 

B^^B^^^^^S^^^  ■' 

!■■ 

^^^^^^^E^^^^^^^^a 

H 

K^^^k' 

1  di^^^^^^MK^'^i^^^flWP^Bk 

^'*'  '^^^^1 

^^?'*^ 

1 

k  1 

^^^^^B'  "' 

■ 

J 

CAKE  ORNAMENTED  WITH  A  MEDALLION  IN  CENTER  I'oliMi;!)  \\X  A  RIN'G  OK 
CANDIED  PLUMS  CUT  IN  QUARTERS  AND  STOOD  ON  Elxii;.  Jill,  CI.XTER  OF  THE 
CIRCLE  IS  COVERED  WITH  BOILED  ICING  AND  DECORATED  AVITH  CANDIED  CHER- 
RIES AND  ANGELICA.  THE  CAKE  OUTSIDE  THE  MEDALLION  IS  BRUSHED  WITH 
WHITE  OF  EGG  AND  THEN  COVERED  WITH  BLANCHED  ALMONDS  CUT  IN  THIN 
SLICES, 


CAKE  473 

rind  and  tlie  chocolate  grated  fine ;  mix  them  thoroughly  and 
evenly  together.  In  a  second  bowl  put  the  yolks  of  the  nine 
eggs  and  whites  of  five  with  one  and  one  half  cupfuls  of  sugar. 
Beat  them  until  quite  stiff.  In  a  third  bowl  put  the  whites  of 
four  eggs ;  beat  them  to  a  stiff  froth ;  then  stir  in  the  remaining 
cupful  of  sugar.  Now  gradually  and  lightly  mix  the  dry  in- 
gredients of  bowl  No.  1  with  No.  2 ;  then  add  the  whites  from 
No.  3.  Lastly,  add  the  brandy  or  rum,  and  quickly  put  it  into 
the  oven  to  bake  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Cover  with 
chocolate  icing,  and  decorate  with  lines  of  white  icing. 

FRUIT  CAKE 

1  pound  of  flour.  9  eggs. 

1  pound  of  sugar.  1  tablespoonful  of  ground 

1  pound  of  butter.  cinnamon. 

^  pound  of  candied  citron  (sliced)  1  tablespoonful  of  mace. 

4  pounds  of  currants.  1  tablespoonful  of  nutmeg. 

4  pounds  of  raisins  (stoned  and  3  gills  of  brandy, 
chopped). 

Mix  the  fruit  together  and  flour  it ;  mix  the  spices  with  the 
sugar.  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar ;  add  the  beaten  yolks,  then 
the  whipped  whites  and  the  brandy,  then  the  flour,  and  lastly 
the  fruit.  Put  the  mixture  in  two  large  tins  lined  with  double 
paper,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three  hours.  If  pre- 
ferred, add  the  sliced  citron  in  layers  as  the  mixture  is  poured 
into  the  pans.  One  pound  of  chopped  almonds  may  be  substi- 
tuted for  one  of  the  pounds  of  currants.  This  cake  will  keep 
any  length  of  time,  therefore  the  quantity  may  not  be  too  great 
to  make  at  one  time. 


CREAM  CAKES  AND  ifiCLAIRS 

These  are  made  of  cooked  paste,  and  are  very  easy  to  prepare. 
The  cream  cakes  differ  from  the  Eclairs  only  in,  fonn  and  in 
not  being  iced. 


474  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

OBEAH  CAKES 

1  cupful  of  water.  IJ  cupfuls  of  flour  (pastry 

1  tablespoonful  of  sugar.  flour  preferred). 

2  tablespoonf  uls  of  butter.       3  to  4  eggs. 

J  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Put  the  water,  sugar,  salt,  and  butter  in  a  saucepan  on  the 
fire.  "When  the  butter  is  melted  remove ;  add  to  it  the  flour, 
and  beat  until  it  is  a  smooth  paste ;  return  it  to  the  fire,  and 
stir  vigorously  untH  the  paste  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan ;  then 
remove ;  let  it  partly  cool,  and  then  add  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time, 
beating  each  one  for  some  time  before  adding  the  next.  When 
all  are  in,  beat  until  the  batter  is  no  longer  stringy.  It  should 
be  consistent  enough  to  hold  its  shape  without  spreading  when 
dropped  from  the  spoon  on  a  tin.  Three  eggs  make  it  about 
right  unless  they  are  very  small  or  the  flour  very  dry.  The 
batter  is  better  if  it  stands  for  an  hour  or  two  before  being 
used ;  but  this  is  not  essential.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  pastry- 
bag  with  a  tube  of  one  half  inch  opening;  press  the  batter 
through  into  balls  one  and  a  half  to  two  inches  in  diameter.  A 
spoon  can  be  used,  but  does  not  give  the  cakes  as  good  shape. 
Brush  the  tops  with  egg.  Put  them  in  a  slack  oven  and  bake 
slowly  for  about  forty  minutes.  They  will  feel  light  when 
done,  and  be  puffed  very  high.  OU  and  flour  the  pans  or 
baking-sheets  as  directed  on  page  464.  When  the  puffs  are 
cool  make  an  incision  in  the  side  and  fill  with  cream  filling  as 
given  for  layer  cakes,  page  468.  The  whipped  whites  of  the 
eggs  may  be  added  to  this  filling  if  it  is  wanted  thinner  and 
lighter. 

These  cakes  are  good  made  very  small,  filled  with  jam  and  a 
little  whipped  cream,  and  the  tops  dipped  in  sugar  boiled  to  the 
crack,  then  sprinkled  with  chopped  burnt  almonds. 

CHOCOLATE,  VAITLLLA,  AND  COFFEE  ECLAIRS 

Make  a  mixture  as  for  cream  cakes ;  put  it  into  a  pastry-bag 
with  a  tube  of  three  eighth  inch  opening.  Press  the  batter  onto 


CAKE  476 

tins  (floured  as  directed  for  cream  cakes)  in  strips  three  and 
one  haH  inches  long,  and  a  little  distance  apart,  the  same  as 
lady-fingers.  Egg  the  tops  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven  about  thirty- 
minutes.  Cut  open  one  side  and  fill  with  cream  filling  made 
the  same  as  for  cream  cakes.  Make  a  chocolate  icing  No.  2 
(page  485) ;  dip  the  6clairs  into  it,  covering  them  one  half. 
For  vanilla  or  cojffee  eclairs  use  fondant  icing,  page  485.  Fla- 
vor the  filling  with  vanilla  or  coffee,  the  same  as  the  icing. 

CABOLIKES 

Make  small  Eclairs  two  inches  long,  using  a  tube  with  open- 
ing no  larger  than  a  pencil.  When  baked  run  a  wooden  skewer 
through  them,  leaving  an  opening  at  each  end,  so  the  filling  will 
go  all  the  way  through.  Put  the  filling  in  a  bag,  and  press  it 
through  the  Carolines.  Cover  the  top  with  fondant  icing.  Have 
the  filling  flavored  with  coffee. 

FANCY  SMALL  CAKES 

MERINGUES  AND  KISSES 

Add  a  half  saltspoonf  ul  of  salt  to  the  whites  of  three  eggs ; 
beat  them,  and  add  gradually,  while  whipping,  three  quarters  of 
a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  Continue  to  beat  until  the  mix- 
ture is  smooth  and  firm  enough  to  hold  its  shape  without 
spreading  when  dropped  in  a  ball ;  add  the  flavoring  of  lemon- 
juice  or  any  essence.  Place  the  meringue  in  a  pastry-bag  and 
press  it  through  a  tube  into  balls  of  the  size  desired  onto  strips 
of  paper  laid  on  a  board  that  will  fit  the  oven.  With  a  wet 
knife  flatten  down  the  point  on  top  left  by  the  tube,  and  sprinkle 
them  with  sugar.  Put  them  into  a  very  slack  oven,  and  let 
them  dry  for  at  least  an  hour ;  then  remove  from  the  papers  and 
either  press  in  the  bottoms  or  scoop  out  the  soft  center  and 
turn  them  over  to  dry  inside.  If  small  kisses,  it  is  better  to  give 
them  plenty  of  time  to  dry,  so  none  of  the  center  has  to  be  taken 
out.    They  can  be  removed  to  the  warm  shelf  if  the  oven  is 


476  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

giving  them  too  much  color.  They  should  be  only  slightly  col- 
ored on  top  and  dried  all  the  way  through.  For  large  me- 
ringues to  be  filled  with  cream,  use  one  and  a  half  tablespoon- 
f uls  of  meringue  for  each  piece.  Make  them  an  oblong  shape. 
Place  them  in  an  oven  hot  enough  for  cake  and  watch  them 
closely  until  they  have  formed  a  light-colored  crust ;  then  re- 
move and  take  out  the  soft  center  or  press  in  the  bottom,  and 
turn  them  over  to  dry  inside.  These  meringues  may  be 
dried  like  the  kisses,  but  take  longer  time,  as  they  are  larger. 
When  a  board  is  not  at  hand  the  papers  holding  the  meringues 
may  be  laid  in  biscuit-tins,  a  second  tin  placed  like  a  cover 
over  the  top,  and  set  on  the  shelf  over  the  range  for  several 
hours.  This  serves  very  well  where  the  fire  is  too  great  for  the 
ovens  to  be  cool.  There  is  no  difiiculty  in  making  meringues  if 
the  eggs  are  sufficiently  whipped.  They  soon  become  stiff  when 
whipped  after  the  sugar  is  in.  They  must  be  dried  rather  than 
baked.  If  the  meringues  stick  to  the  paper  turn  them  over, 
slightly  moisten  the  paper,  and  it  will  soon  come  off.  Make 
kisses  small  and  stick  two  together  with  white  of  egg.  When 
very  small  they  are  good  with  a  little  jam  or  jelly  between  them. 
Large  meringues  can  be  filled  with  ice-cream  or  with  whipped 
cream  just  before  serving  them,  and  two  placed  together. 

One  quarter  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  is  needed  for  the  white 
of  each  egg. 

LADY-FIirGERS 

6  eggs.  i  pound  or  1  cupful  of 

^  pound  or  IJ  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour. 

powdered  sugar.  ^  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Flavoring  of  vanilla,  lemon,  or  orange-flower  water. 
Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  to  a  light  cream ;  add  the  flavor- 
ing. Stir  in  lightly  the  flour  and  then  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
whipped  very  firm;  the  salt  is  added  to  the  whites  before 
being  whipped.  Have  a  sheet  of  paper  on  the  baking-pan  or 
sheet.  Place  the  mixture  in  a  pastry-bag,  and  press  it  through 
a  tube  having  an  opening  one  half  to  three  quarter  inch  wide. 


CAKE  477 

Have  the  strips  four  and  a  half  inches  long.  Cut  off  the  paste 
from  the  tube  with  a  knife  so  the  ends  will  be  clean ;  dust  them 
with  sugar  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  ten  to  twelve  minutes, 
or  until  a  light  crust  has  formed.  The  crust  should  not  be 
colored.    When  done,  stick  two  together,  using  white  of  egg. 

For  Biscuit  Balls. — Drop  the  mixture  in  balls  one  half  inch 
in  diameter,  and  bake  the  same  as  fingers.  Stick  two  together 
with  a  little  jam  between  them. 

MACAROONS 

J  pound  of  almonds.  IJ  cupfuls  of  powdered 

Whites  of  4  eggs.  sugar. 

Pound  the  blanched  almonds  to  a  paste,  adding  a  teaspoonful 
of  rose-water  to  keep  them  from  oiling ;  add  also  the  sugar,  a 
little  at  a  time,  while  pounding  the  almonds;  add  a  few  drops  of 
almond  essence  and  the  whipped  whites  of  the  eggs ;  beat  thor- 
oughly together.  Drop  the  mixture  in  balls  one  half  inch  in 
diameter  on  strips  of  paper,  using  a  pastry-bag.  If  not  stiff 
enough  to  hold  their  shapes  without  spreading,  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour. 

GOGOANUT  BALLS  OB  GONES 

Grate  a  cocoanut;  add  to  it  half  its  weight  of  sugar;  then 
stir  in  the  whipped  white  of  one  egg.  Roll  the  mixture  into 
balls  or  cones,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  twenty  to  thirty 
minutes.  If  the  mixture  is  too  soft  to  hold  its  shape,  add  a 
very  little  flour. 

MADELEINES  No.   1 

Make  two  thin  layers  of  Glenoese  cake  (page  467),  flavored  with 
brandy ;  place  them  together  with  a  thin  layer  of  jelly  or  jam 
between  them.  Cut  the  cake  into  fancy  shapes,  such  as  dia- 
monds, squares,  circles,  and  crescents,  having  them  not  more 
than  one  and  a  quarter  to  one  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  and 
the  same  in  thickness.    Ice  them  with  fondant  (see  page  485), 


478  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

flavored  with  rum,  Mrsch,  or  marascWno,  or  vary  the  flavor  for 
the  different  shapes ;  or,  make  the  cakes  of  one  layer  one  and 
a  quarter  inches  thick,  and  ice  them  on  top  and  sides  with  royal 
icing  or  with  fondant,  making  it  of  different  colors,  pink,  green, 
chocolate,  white,  and  flavor  to  correspond.  Place  in  the  center 
of  each  cake  a  currant,  bit  of  candied  cherry,  piece  of  angelica, 
or  almond. 

MADELEINES  No.  2 

Take  a  sponge-cake  No.  1,  or  a  Genoese  cake  mixture,  and 
make  it  a  little  stiffer  with  flour  (enough  batter  can  usually  be 
saved  from  layer  cake  to  make  a  few  fancy  cakes).  With  a  spoon 
or  pastry-bag  drop  it  in  balls  one  half  inch  in  diameter ;  bake, 
and  place  two  together  with  a  little  jam  or  jelly  between  them. 
Cover  them  with  soft  royal  icing ;  have  them  all  of  the  same 
color.  If  green,  use  pistachio  flavor  as  directed,  page  391,  and 
sprinkle  the  tops  with  chopped  pistachio  nuts ;  if  white,  with  al- 
monds J  if  pink,  leave  them  plain,  and  flavor  with  rose. 

LITTLE  FOUND-CAKES 

Use  the  Genoese  mixture  with  a  few  currants  added,  or  the 
plain  pound-cake  mixture.  Bake  in  small  tins  one  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter ;  take  care  that  they  rise  evenly  so  they  are 
flat  on  top.    Ice  the  top  only  with  any  kind  of  icing. 

OBANGE  aUARTERS 

Use  the  Genoese  or  any  butter-cake  mixture,  making  it  quite 
stiff  with  flour ;  flavor  it  with  lemon-  and  orange-juice,  and  add 
a  little  of  the  grated  rind  of  orange.  Drop  a  small  tablespoon- 
ful  of  the  cake  mixture  at  intervals  into  the  tin  made  for  this 
cake  (see  illustration),  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  ;  cover  the 
wedge-shaped  sides  of  the  cakes  with  soft  royal  icing  flavored 
and  colored  with  orange-juice. 

ALMOND  WATERS 

Take  one  tablespoonf ul  each  of  flour  and  powdered  sugar  and 
one  half  saltspoonful  of  salt.    Sift  them  well  together.    Beat 


1.  SMALL  POUND  CAKES  AND  TINS  IN  WHICH  THEY  WERE  BAKED. 

2.  ORANGE-QUAKTER  CAKES  AND  BAKING  TIN.      (SEE  PAGE  478.) 

3.  SHELL-SHAPED  GENOESE  CAKES  AND  BAKING  TIN. 


^^^ 


m%'- 


1.  SMALL  KISSES.      (SEE  PAGE  475.) 

2.  MADELEINES  — ROUND,  SQUARE,  DIAMOND-SHAPED,  AND  CRESCENTS,  EACH 
ONE  ICED  AND  GARNISHED  WITH  PIECE  OF  ANGELICA  CUT  THE  SAME  SHAPE 
AS  THE  CAKE.      (SEE  PAGE  477.) 


CAKE  479 

the  white  of  one  egg  just  enough  to  break  it,  and  add  as  much 
of  it  to  the  flour  and  sugar  as  it  wUl  take  to  make  a  creamy 
batter ;  flavor  with  a  few  drops  of  almond  essence.  Grease  the 
pans  lightly  and  flour  them  as  directed  on  page  464.  Drop  a 
half  teaspoonf  111  of  the  paste  on  the  pan,  and  with  a  wet  finger 
spread  it  into  a  thin  round  wafer.  Bake  it  in  a  very  moderate 
oven  until  the  edges  are  slightly  browned,  then,  before  remov- 
ing from  the  oven  door,  lift  each  wafer,  and  turn  it  around  a 
stick.  They  stiffen  very  quickly,  and  the  rolling  must  be  done 
while  they  are  hot. 

VENETIAir  CAKES 

^  cupful  of  butter.  1  cupful  of  almonds. 

J  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.    1  teaspoonful  of  vanUla. 
1^  cupfuls  of  pastry  flour.        Yolks  of  3  eggs. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  very  light ;  add 
the  yolks  well  beaten ;  then  the  almonds  blanched  and  cut  in 
strips ;  mix ;  add  the  vanilla  and  stir  in  lightly  the  flour.  The 
dough  should  be  rather  soft.  Take  a  small  piece  at  a  time, 
drop  it  in  powdered  sugar,  and  roll  it  between  the  hands  into  a 
ball  one  inch  in  diameter.  Put  a  piece  of  pistachio  nut  on  the 
top.  Place  the  balls  a  little  distance  apart  on  floured  pans  (see 
page  464),  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  ten  to  fifteen  minutes, 
or  to  a  pale  color.  They  will  flatten  in  baking  and  have  the 
shape  of  macaroons. 

OAUFFRES 

This  receipt  was  obtained  in  Paris,  and  makes  the  little 
cakes  one  sees  for  sale  at  all  the  French  fetes,  and  also  on  the 
sea-beaches,  where  the  vender  calls  so  cheerily,  "Voici  les 
plaisirs."  They  are  baked  in  a  kind  of  small  wafile-iron.  The 
plaisirs  are  rolled  as  soon  as  taken  from  the  iron. 

Add  a  dash  of  salt  to  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  and  whip  them 
to  a  stiff  froth.  Put  a  half  pound  of  flour  in  a  bowl,  and  add 
enough  water  to  make  a  thin  batter ;  flavor  it  with  vanilla,  then 
add  the  whipped  whites  of  the  eggs.    Bake  one  gauffre  to  see 


480  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

if  the  batter  is  of  the  right  consistency.  It  should  be  very  thin, 
and  water  can  be  added  until  it  is  right.  Have  the  iron  hot, 
and  grease  it  well  with  butter  or  oil.  Pour  in  the  batter,  and 
let  it  run  evenly  into  all  the  grooves;  close  the  iron,  and  bake 
on  both  sides  over  hot  coals.  The  iron  must  be  very  clean, 
smooth,  and  weU  greased,  or  the  gauffres  will  stick.  Dredge 
them  with  powdered  sugar  as  soon  as  baked. 


JUMBLES,  COOKIES,  AND  PLAIN  CAKES 

JUMBLES 

Beat  to  a  cream  one  cupful  of  butter  with  two  cupfuls  of 
sugar.  Add  three  eggs,  the  yolks  and  whites  beaten  sepa- 
rately; then  the  flavoring.  Stir  in  lightly  enough  flour  to 
make  a  paste  just  firm  enough  to  roll  thin.  Cut  it  into  circles 
and  with  a  smaller  cutter  stamp  out  a  small  cii'cle  in  the  middle, 
leaving  the  jumbles  in  rings.  Place  them  in  a  floured  pan, 
brush  the  tops  with  white  of  egg,  and  sprinkle  with  pounded 
loaf  sugar.  The  sugar  should  be  in  small  lumps.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  to  a  light  color. 

SAND  TABTS 

Make  the  mixture  given  for  jumbles.  Cut  it  into  squares  or 
diamonds,  place  them  in  floured  pans,  brush  the  top  with 
white  of  egg.  Sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar  mixed  with 
ground  cinnamon.  Place  a  piece  of  blanched  almond  in  the 
center  of  each  one. 

BOLLEB  JUUBLES 

Make  a  mixture  as  directed  for  jumbles,  using  only  enough 
flour  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Drop  a  teaspoonful  of  batter  for 
each  cake  on  a  floured  pan.  In  the  oven  it  mns  out  into  a  thin 
cake,  so  leave  plenty  of  room  for  the  batter  to  spread.  As  soon 
as  the  edges  begin  to  brown  lift  the  cakes,  and  at  the  oven 
door  roU  them  around  a  stick.  Leave  them  in  the  oven  a  few 
moments  longer  to  dry. 


CAKE  481 

PLAIN  COOKIES 

1  cupful  of  butter.  2  eggs. 

2  eupfuls  of  sugar.  ^  teaspoonf ul  of  vanilla. 

1  cupful  of  milk.  Flour. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Mix  in  the  order  given.  Use  enough  flour  to  roll  the  dough 
thin.  Cut  it  into  circles,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Brush 
the  tops  with  white  of  egg,  and  sprinkle  them  with  sugar.  Cara- 
way seeds  may  be  mixed  with  the  dough,  or  sprinkled  over  the 
tops  if  liked.  For  soft  cookies  do  not  roll  the  dough  so  thin. 
Stamp  them  out  with  a  fluted  cutter,  and  remove  them  from 
the  oven  as  soon  as  baked,  not  leaving  them  to  dry  as  for  crisp 
cookies. 

GINGER  SNAPS 

Put  a  half  cupful  of  butter  and  a  cupful  of  molasses  on  the 
fire;  as  soon  as  the  butter  is  softened  remove  them,  and  add 
a  half  cupful  of  brown  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  ginger,  and  a 
teaspoonf  ul  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  hot  water;  then  mix  in 
enough  flour  to  make  a  stiff  dough.    Roll  it  very  thin,  and 

stamp  it  into  circles. 

CRULLERS 

Beat  three  eggs  together;  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 
and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  or  lard;  then  enough 
flour  to  make  a  dough  stiff  enough  to  roll.  Roll  it  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  thick.  Cut  it  into  pieces  three  and  a  half  inches  long 
and  two  inches  broad.  Cut  two  slits  in  each  piece,  and  give 
each  one  a  twist.  Fry  the  crullers  in  hot  fat,  the  same  as 
doughnuts. 

DOUGHNUTS 

2  eggs.  1  saltspoonful  each  of  salt 
1  cupful  of  sugar.  and  ground  cinnamon. 

1  cupful  of  milk.  ^  teaspoonful  of  soda  and  1 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  melt-  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 

ed  butter.  tartar,  or  1  teaspoonful 

Flour  enough  to  make  a  of  baking-powder. 

soft  dough. 

81 


482  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

Roll  the  dough  one  inch  thick.  Cut  it  into  small  circles,  or 
rings,  or  strips  and  twist  them.  Drop  the  cakes  into  smoking 
hot  fat,  and  fry  to  light  brown;  drain,  and  roll  them  in  pow- 
dered sugar  while  still  warm. 

BBEAD  CAXE 

Take  a  piece  of  raised  bread-dough  large  enough  for  one 
loaf.  Mix  into  it  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  cupful  each 
of  sugar,  raisins,  and  currants;  one  half  teaspoonful  each  of 
ground  cinnamon,  cloves,  and  allspice.  Let  it  rise,  which  will 
take  some  time,  and  bake  the  same  as  bread. 

ONE-EGO  CAKE 

Cream  together  a  half  cupful  of  butter  and  a  cupful  of  sugar. 
Add  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  one  beaten  egg'j  then  two  cupfuls  of 
flour  mixed  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Bake  in 
a  moderate  oven. 

WABBEN'S  CASE 

2  eggs.  1  cupful  of  flour. 

1  cupful  of  sugar.  J  cupful  of  hot  water. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs  together  well,  add  the 
sugar,  then  the  flour,  in  which  the  baking-powder  is  mixed,  and 
lastly  the  water.    Put  it  into  the  oven  at  once. 

MOLASSES  WAFERS 

Mix  well  together  one  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  sugar^ 
two  cupfuls  of  molasses,  and  two  cupfuls  of  flour.  Drop  a  few 
spoonfuls  into  a  pan,  in  different  places,  and  put  it  in  the  oven ; 
it  will  melt  and  run  together.  Let  it  bake  until  it  begins  to 
harden  on  the  edges ;  then  remove,  cut  it  into  squares,  and  while 
it  is  still  hot  and  soft  roll  each  piece  around  a  stick. 


CAKE  483 

SOFT  GDrGEBBBEAD 

1  cupful  of  molasses.  1  teaspoonful  each  of  gin- 

1  tablespoonf ul  of  butter.  ger,  ground  cloves,  cin- 

1  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water.       namon,  and  soda. 

2  to  3  cupf uls  of  flour.  ^  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Add  the  melted  butter  to  the  molasses,  then  the  spices.  Dissolve 
the  soda  in  the  boiling  water,  and  stir  it  into  the  molasses.  Add 
enough  flour  to  make  a  very  soft  dough — too  soft  to  roll.  Bake 
in  a  biscuit-tin  lined  with  paper,  in  a  moderate  oven,  for  thirty- 
five  minutes.    Mix  it  quickly  and  put  it  into  the  oven  at  once. 

MOLASSES  CAKE 

Put  together  two  cupfuls  of  New  Orleans  molasses  and  one 
cupful  of  butter,  and  heat  them  enough  to  soften  the  butter; 
remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  each  of  powdered 
ginger  and  cinnamon,  and  one  half  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  then 
three  well-beaten  eggs.  When  it  is  well  mixed  add  alternately, 
in  small  quantities,  three  cupfuls  of  flour  and  one  cupful  of 
boiling  water  in  which  have  been  dissolved  three  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking  soda. 

ICING  AND  DECORATINa  CAKES 

BOTAL  IGIKG 

Place  the  white  of  an  egg  in  a  bowl  or  plate.  Add  a  little 
lemon-juice  or  other  flavoring,  and  a  few  drops  of  water.  Stir 
in  powdered  sugar  until  it  is  of  the  right  consistency  to  spread. 
While  the  cake  is  still  warm  pile  the  icing  on  the  center  of  the 
cake,  and  with  a  wet  knife  smooth  it  over  the  top  and  sides  of 
the  cake.  It  will  settle  into  a  smooth  and  glossy  surface.  If 
the  icing  is  prepared  before  the  cake  is  ready,  cover  it  with 
a  wet  cloth,  as  it  quickly  hardens.  If  it  becomes  too  stiff  add  a. 
few  drops  of  water,  and  stir  it  again.  Color  and  flavor  as 
desired.  One  egg  will  take  about  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and 
will  make  enough  icing  to  cover  one  cake.  If  a  little  more 
is  needed  add  a  little  water  to  the  egg,  and  it  will  then  take 


484  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

more  sugar.  When  icing  is  wanted  for  decorating  a  cake,  beat 
the  whites  to  a  froth,  then  beat  in  the  sugar  instead  of  stirring 
it,  and  continue  to  beat  until  it  is  firm  enough  to  hold  its  form. 
Stirring  more  sugar  into  the  unwhipped  whites  wiU  make  it  firm 
enough  for  decorating,  but  the  whipped  icing  is  better.  Put  it 
into  a  pastry-bag  with  small  tube,  or  into  a  paper  funnel,  and 
press  it  through  into  any  shapes  desired.  A  good  icing  is  made 
of  milk  and  sugar  alone. 

EOYAL  ICING  WITH  COlfFECTIONER'S  SUGAR 

Make  this  icing  the  same  as  the  other,  using  confectioner's 
sugar,  which  is  finer  than  the  powdered  sugar,  and  use  a  little 
water  with  the  egg.  This  makes  a  soft,  creamy  icing ;  the  more 
water  used,  the  softer  it  will  be.  If  beaten  instead  of  stirred  it 
wiU  become  firm  enough  to  hold  in  place  without  so  much  sugar 
being  used,  but  in  this  way  it  dries  sooner  and  is  not  so  creamy. 
This  is  a  good  icing  for  layer  cakes,  fancy  cakes,  and  eclairs. 

BOILED  ICING  No.  1 

Put  a  cupful  of  sugar  into  a  saucepan  with  one  quarter  cup- 
ful of  boiling  water  and  a  half  saltspoonf  ul  of  cream  of  tartar ; 
stir  till  dissolved,  then  let  it  boil  without  stirring  until  it  threads 
when  dropped  from  the  spoon.  Turn  it  in  a  fine  stream  onto 
the  white  of  one  egg  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth.  Beat  the  egg 
until  the  mixture  becomes  smooth  and  stiff  enough  to  spread, 
but  do  not  let  it  get  too  cold.    Pour  it  over  the  cake. 

BOILED  ICING  No.  2 

Bon  sugar  as  directed  above  to  the  soft  ball;  then  remove 
from  the  fire,  add  the  flavoring,  and  stir  it  until  it  looks  clouded, 
and  turn  it  at  once  over  the  cake. 

CHOCOLATE  ICING  No.  1 

Melt  in  a  dry  saucepan  some  chocolate ;  dilute  it  with  a  little 
water  and  add  enough  powdered  or  confectionei*'s  sugar  to  make 
it  of  the  right  consistency.  Use  it  while  warm,  as  chocolate 
quickly  hardens.     Flavor  it  with  vanilla. 


CAKE  485 

CHOCOLATE  ICING  No.  2 

Melt  in  a  dry  pan  four  ounces  of  chocolate,  or  of  cocoa. 
Boil  one  and  three  quarter  cupfuls  of  sugar  with  a  cupful 
of  water  till  it  threads  when  dropped  from  the  spoon,  the  same 
as  for  boiled  icing.  Turn  it  slowly  onto  the  chocolate,  stirring 
all  the  time.  Use  this  icing  for  dipping  eclairs  and  small 
cakes,  and  for  layer  cakes.  Chocolate  icing  loses  its  gloss 
when  at  all  stale. 

CHOCOLATE  ICINO  No.  3 

Melt  one  ounce  of  chocolate ;  dilute  it  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  milk ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a  quarter  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter ;  stir  till  smooth  and  spread  on  the  cake. 

ICING  FOR  SMALL  CAKES 

Stir  into  confectioner's  sugar  enough  syrup  of  thirty  degrees 
(see  page  513)  to  dissolve  it;  add  fruit-juice  or  liqueur  to  flavor 
it.  When  ready  to  use,  heat  it,  stirring  all  the  time,  and  stand 
it  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  while  the  cakes  are  dipped  into  it. 

COFFEE  ICING  FOR  ECLAIRS 

Make  the  same  as  the  one  given  above,  using  very  strong 
coffee  or  coffee  essence  to  color  and  flavor  it.  Use  enough 
sugar  to  make  a  soft  flowing  icing,  and  dip  the  cakes  into  it 
while  it  is  hot. 

FONDANT  ICING 

This  is  the  best  of  all  icings.  It  is  soft  and  glossy,  and  is 
used  especially  for  small  cakes  and  Iclairs.  If  the  fondant  is 
akeady  made,  it  gives  very  little  trouble.  To  make  fondant 
see  page  514.  It  will  keep  in  tight  preserve  jars  any  length  of 
time.  Fondant  does  not  work  so  well  after  it  has  been  melted 
two  or  three  times,  therefore  it  is  better  to  take  only  the  amount 
to  be  used  for  one  flavor  or  color  at  a  time.  Place  it  in  a  cup 
and  stand  it  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water.  Stir  the  fondant  con- 
stantly while  it  is  melting,  or  it  will  become  a  clear  liquid.  It 
will  soften  at  a  low  degree  of  heat  j  add  the  flavoring  and  col- 


486  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

oring  and  dip  the  cakes  into  it.  If  it  becomes  too  hard,  add  a 
few  drops  of  syrup  at  thirty-four  degrees  (see  page  513).  When 
liqueurs  are  used  for  flavoring,  add  a  drop  or  two  at  a  time 
only,  or  they  will  dilute  it  too  much.  Should  this  occur,  add 
a  little  more  fondant  to  the  cup.  Maraschino,  cura9ao,  kirsch, 
orange-flower  water,  rose,  almond,  and  coffee  essences  make 
good  flavorings  for  fancy-cake  icings. 


GARNISHINa  CAKES 

WITH  POWDERED  SUGAR 

The  simplest  of  all  garnishings  is  to  sprinkle  the 

cake  with  powdered  sugar ;   strips  of  paper  can  be 

laid  over  the  cake  before  it  is  dusted,  so  as  to  give 

In  lines     ^^°^^  ^^  squares  of  white  over  the  top ;  stencils  for 

or  squares,  this  purpose  are  easily  cut,  giving  circles  or  diamonds. 

WITH  CHOPPED  NUTS 

Brush  the  cake  with  white  of  egg  and  then  sprinkle 
wainute,  or  ^^^^  nuts  chopped  or  sliced  fine ;  or  the  cake  may  be 
pistachio    lightly  coated  with  a  red  jelly  or  jam,  and  then 
sprinkled  with  chopped  nuts. 

WITH  COLORED  SUGARS 

Cover  the  cake  with  royal  icing,  and  before  it 
hardens  sprinkle  it  with  red  and  green  colored  sugar 
(see  page  393).  It  may  be  put  on  in  dots  or  sprinkled 
evenly  over  the  whole. 

WITH  TWO  COLORS 

Loaf  cake  may  be  iced  in  sections  of  alternate  colors. 
To  do  this,  place  a  strip  of  stiff  paper  upright  be- 
tween the  colors  while  spreading  them,  and  remove  it 
carefully  as  soon  as  the  icing  is  on.    This  will  give  a 


CAKE  487 

clean,  sharp  line.  Cakes  iced  with  chocolate  or  With 
boiled  icing  may  be  ornamented  with  fine  lines  of 
royal  icing. 

TO  DECORATE  IN  DESIGNS 

Place  royal  icing  in  a  pastry  bag  having  a  tube 
with  small  opening.  Press  the  icing  through  slowly, 
following  any  design  one  may  have  in  view.  Points 
may  be  pricked  in  the  flat  icing  at  regular  intervals 
as  a  guide.  It  requires  some  practice  to  acquire  the 
facility  for  making  very  elaborate  designs,  but  straight 
lines,  dots,  and  circles  around  the  cake  are  easy  to 
make,  and  with  these  a  great  variety  of  combinations 
can  be  made.  Tubes  of  various-shaped  openings  are 
made  to  give  different  forms  to  the  icing  pressed 
through  them.  If  one  cares  to  practise  making  fancy 
decorations,  draw  a  design  on  a  paper  or  slab  and  To  practise 
f oKow  the  lines  with  icing ;  scrape  off  the  icing  when  *]^^^*® 
it  is  done,  and  repeat  the  operation  until  familiar 
enough  with  the  design  to  be  able  to  make  it  without 
a  guide. 


Chapter  XXTI 
FROZEN  DESSERTS 

ICE-CREAMS,  WATER-ICES,   PARE  AITS,  MOUSSES,  FROZEN 
FRUITS,  PUNCHES,   AND  SHERBETS 

Frozen  desserts  are  the  most  acceptable  of  any 
that  can  be  presented  in  the  summer-time,  and  at  any 
season  they  are  served  and  expected  at  dinner  enter- 
tainments. 

The  trouble  of  making  them  is  not  greater  than 

Oompara-   *^^*  ®^  making  any  dessert  of  the  same  class,  and  the 

tiTetxouble  expense  no  more  than  any  dessert  using  the  same 

expense,     amount  of  eggs  and  cream;  thus  a  plain  ice-cream  is 

the  same  as  a  custard,  a  mousse  the  same  as  whipped 

cream,  etc. 

Parfaits  are  especially  delicious  creams,  and  as  they 
require  no  stirring  while  freezing  are  very  quickly 
and  easily  made.  The  freezing  of  ice-creams  which 
require  stirring  is  accomplished  in  twenty  to  twenty- 
five  minutes,  and  is  much  easier  work  than  beating 
eggs  for  cake.  In  fact,  the  whole  process  of  making 
ice-creams  is  easier  than  that  of  making  cake,  but  the 
latter  is  so  generally  practised  that  nothing  is  thought 
of  it.  It  will  be  the  same  with  ice-cream  if  the  habit 
is  once  formed.  They  have  the  advantage  over  hot 
desserts  that  they  require  no  attention  at  dinner-time. 

CLASSIFICATION  OP  ICE-CREAMS 

Philadelphia  ice-creams  are  cream  sweetened,  fla- 
vored, and  stirred  while  freezing. 

488 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  489 

French  ice-creams  are  custards  of  different  degrees 
of  richness  stirred  while  freezing. 

Parfaits,  biscuits,  and  mousses  are  whipped  cream, 
with  or  without  eggs,  frozen  without  stirring. 

Water-ices  are  fruit- juices  sweetened  with  sugar 
syrup,  stirred  while  freezing. 

Punches  and  sherbets  are  water-ices  with  liquors 
mixed  with  them  either  before  or  after  they  are 
frozen. 

These  creams,  in  different  degrees  of  richness  and 
with  different  flavorings,  give  an  infinite  variety,  and     creams, 
their  combinations  and  forms  of  molding  give  all  the 
fancy  ices. 


GENERAL   RULES   FOR   MAKING    ICE-CREAMS — TO    PRE- 
PARE ICE-CREAM  MIXTURES 

Unless  the  cream  is  to  be  whipped  it  should  be  The  cream, 
scalded,  as  it  then  gives  a  smoother  and  better  ice; 
otherwise  it  has  a  raw  taste.  It  is  scalded  as  soon  as 
the  water  in  the  outside  kettle  boils.  If  the  cream  is 
too  much  cooked  it  will  not  increase  in  bulk  when 
stirred,  therefore  do  not  boil  the  cream.  When 
whipped  cream  is  used  it  should  be  very  cold,  whipped 
to  a  stiff,  firm  froth  with  a  wire  whip,  and  the 
liquid  which  drains  from  it  should  not  be  used.  (See 
whipping  cream,  page  408.) 

Ices  are  much  better  when  the  sugar  is  added  in  the  The  sugar, 
form  of  syrup.  (See  sugar  syrup,  page  503;  and  boil- 
ing syrup,  page  513.)  Frozen  fruits  are  smoother 
when  sweetened  with  syrup,  and  water-ices  should  be 
made  of  a  thick  syrup  diluted  with  fruit-juice  to  20° 
on  the  syrup  gauge. 

In  custard  creams  the  milk  should  be  scalded,  and    Custarda 
when  a  little  cool  stirred  into  the  beaten  yolks  (the 
whites  of  the  eggs  are  not  generally  used).     The 


490  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

whole  is  then  placed  on  the  fire,  and  stirred  continu- 
ally until  it  coats  the  spoon  no  longer.  The  flavoring 
is  then  added,  and  it  is  beaten  until  cold.  This 
makes  it  light  and  smooth,  and  increases  its  bulk. 
Biflcmta  j^qj.  biscuits  and  parfaits  the  custard  is  made  of 
parfaits.     sugar  syrup  and  yolks  of  eggs  cooked  together  until 

it  coats  the  spoon,  and  is  then  beaten  until  cold. 
Freezii^f.  Freezing. —  Put  the  ice  in  a  strong  cloth  or  bag, 
and  pound  it  quite  fine.  The  finer  the  ice  the  quicker 
will  be  the  freezing.  Snow  may  be  used  in  place  of 
ice.  Use  one  part  of  rock  salt  (fine  salt  will  not  do)  to 
three  parts  of  ice.  Rock  salt  can  be  had  at  feed-stores 
when  not  found  at  grocers'.  Place  the  can  in  the 
freezing  pail  with  the  pivot  of  the  can  in  the  socket  of 
the  pail,  have  the  cover  on  the  can,  and  a  cork  in  the 
opening  on  top.  Hold  the  can  straight,  and  fill  around 
it  three  inches  deep  of  ice ;  then  an  inch  of  salt.  Al- 
ternate the  layers  of  ice  and  salt,  observing  the  right 
proportions,  until  the  packing  rises  to  within  an  inch 
of  the  top  of  the  can;  pack  it  down  as  solid  as  possible. 
See  that  the  can  will  turn,  and  be  careful  not  to  lift  it 
out  of  the  socket.  Take  off  the  top  of  the  can ;  put  in 
the  paddle,  placing  the  pivot  in  the  socket  at  the 
bottom;  then  pour  in  carefully  the  ice-cream  mixture, 
which  must  be  perfectly  cold.  Adjust  the  tops  and 
crank,  and  turn  it  for  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes, 
by  which  time  the  cream  should  be  frozen.  The  crank 
Time.  turns  harder  when  the  mixture  has  stiffened,  and  it  is 
not  necessary  to  look  in  order  to  know  it  is  frozen. 
If  the  cream  is  frozen  too  quickly  it  wiU  be  coarse- 
grained. To  have  it  fine-grained  it  must  be  turned 
constantly,  and  not  frozen  in  less  time  than  twenty 
minutes. 

Packing.'— When  the  cream  is  frozen  take  off  the 
crank  and  the  top  of  the  paQ.  Wipe  carefully  the  top 
of  the  can,  and  see  that  the  ice  and  salt  are  well  be- 


FROZEN  DESSERTS 


491 


Adding 
fruit,  nuts, 
cream,  etc. 


low  the  lid,  so  none  will  get  into  the  cream;  lift  off 
the  top,  take  out  the  paddle,  and  with  a  spoon  or 
wooden  spatula  work  down  the  cream.  If  fruit, 
whipped  cream,  or  anything  is  to  be  added  to  the 
cream,  put  it  in  at  this  time  and  work  it  well  to- 
gether. If  the  cream  is  to  be  molded,  remove  and 
place  it  in  the  molds;  if  not,  smooth  the  top,  and 
make  the  cream  compact  with  a  potato  masher.  Re- 
place the  top,  put  a  cork  in  the  opening  of  the  lid, 
draw  off  the  water  in  the  pail  by  removing  the  cork 
from  the  hole  in  the  side  of  the  pail,  add  more  ice 
and  salt.  Cover  it  with  a  heavy  cloth,  and  let  it 
stand  until  ready  to  use.  The  cream  ripens  or  be-  Bipening 
comes  blended  by  standing,  so  should  be  made  before 
the  time  for  serving.  Look  at  it  occasionally  to  see 
that  the  water  does  not  rise  above  the  opening  of  the 
can.  K  properly  watched,  and  if  the  packing  is  re- 
newed as  required,  the  cream  can  be  kept  for  any 
length  of  time. 

Molding  Ice-Creams. — Put  the  frozen  ice-cream  into 
the  mold,  filling  it  entirely  full;  press  it  down  to 
force  out  any  air  bubbles.  Rub  butter  around  the 
edge  where  the  lid  fits  on.  Lay  a  wet  thin  paper  over 
the  top,  and  put  on  the  lid.  Fill  the  edges  around 
the  lid  with  butter  or  lard.  This  will  harden,  and 
make  the  joints  tight.  Too  much  care  cannot  be 
taken  to  prevent  the  salt  water  leaking  into  the  mold. 
Imbed  the  mold  in  ice  and  salt  for  from  one  to  six 
hom's.  Mousses  require  foui*  to  six  hours,  and  pai*- 
faits  two  to  three  hours.  Watch  to  see  that  the 
water  does  not  rise  above  the  lid  of  the  mold,  and 
draw  it  off  when  necessary. 

Fancy  Molding. — When  two  or  more  kinds  of 
creams  are  to  be  combined  in  the  same  mold,  first 
place  the  mold  in  ice  and  salt;  line  it  an  inch  or 
more  thick  with  one  kind  of  cream,  and  fill  the  center 


Molding. 


Frecantion, 


492 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


with  a  cream  of  different  flavor  and  color.  These  are 
Bombs,  called  bombs.  Or,  place  two  or  more  kinds  in  even 
layers.  Where  two  colors  are  used  they  are  pana- 
Panacli66.  ch6e;  if  three,  they  are  neapolitan.  If  the  colors 
are  to  run  in  vertical  strips,  which  is  desirable  in 
pyramidal  molds,  cut  a  piece  of  stiff  paper  or  card- 
Neapolitan,  board  to  the  shape  of  the  mold;  fill  each  side  with  a 
different  cream,  and  then  withdraw  the  paper.  Arrange 
layers  of  creams  so  that  when  unmolded  the  most 
solid  one  will  be  at  the  bottom,  as  it  has  the  weight 
of  the  others  to  sustain;  for  instance,  do  not  put 
water-ices  or  parfaits  under  French  creams.  Biscuits 
are  put  into  paper  boxes,  and  individual  creams  into 
lead  molds.  The  latter  must  be  thoroughly  chilled, 
then  filled  according  to  fancy  or  color  suitable  to  the 
form.  They  are  then  closed,  and  put  into  a  freezing- 
box,  or  into  a  pail,  the  joints  of  the  pail  tightly  sealed 
with  butter,  and  packed  in  ice  and  salt.  A  freez- 
ing-box with  shelves  is  desirable  to  have  for  these 
creams,  but  a  lard-pail  answers  very  well  for  a  small 
number  of  molds,  as  the  lid  fits  over  the  outside,  and 
so  can  be  made  tight.  Molds  packed  in  this  way  re- 
quire to  stand  longer  than  those  which  come  in  direct 
contact  with  the  ice  and  salt. 

The  individual  creams  have  to  be  frozen  very  hard, 
and  when  unmolded  should  be  brushed  with  a  little 
color  to  simulate  the  fruit  or  flower  they  represent. 
Thus,  a  peach  or  a  pear  would  be  of  French  cream. 
Decorating,  which  is  yellow  in  color,  and  the  sides  brushed  with  a 
little  diluted  cochineal  to  give  pink  cheeks,  and  a  piece 
of  angelica  stuck  in  to  represent  a  stem.  A  flower 
would  be  molded  in  white  cream,  and  the  center  made 
yellow.  A  mushroom  stem  would  be  dipped  in  pow- 
dered cocoa,  etc. 

Individual  creams  are  perhaps  too  difficult  for  an 
amateur  to  undertake,  and  hardly  repay  the  trouble 


Individual 
creams. 


Freezing 
box. 


ICE-CREAM  MOI^DS  IN  BRICK  FORMS  AND  INDIVIDUAL  LEAD  MOLDS. 


ICE-CREAM  MOLDED  IN  A  RING  MOLD,  THE  CENTER  FILLED  WITH  WHIPPED 

CREAM  COLORED  PINK,  AND  THE  DISH  GARNISHED  WITH  PINK 

ROSES  AND  LEAVES. 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  493 

when  so  many  ornamental  creams  are  more  easily 
made. 

To  Unmold  Creams. — Dip  the  mold  into  cold  water ;  Unmoiding. 
wipe  it  dry  and  invert  it  on  the  dish.  If  it  does  not 
come  out  at  once  let  it  stand  a  moment,  or  wring  a  cloth 
out  of  warm  water,  and  wipe  quickly  around  the  mold. 
This  must  be  done  quickly,  or  the  sharp  edges  of  the 
molded  cream  will  be  destroyed.  With  parfaits  and 
mousses  it  is  better  not  to  use  a  hot  cloth,  as  they  melt 
very  easily.  It  destroys  the  attractiveness  of  ices  to 
have  the  dish  swimming  in  melted  cream,  or  to  have 
the  mold  soft  and  irregular  in  shape,  which  partial 
melting  produces.  Hence  the  unmolding  of  creams 
requires  great  care. 

Ornamental  Creams. —  A  plain  ring-mold  of  ice- 
cream in  any  color  can  be  made  an  ornamental  cream, 
by  filling  the  center  with  berries  or  with  whipped 
cream  for  sauce.  The  whipped  cream  may  be  colored  to 
give  pleasing  contrast.  For  instance,  a  white  ice-cream- 
ring  filled  with  pink  whipped  cream  and  a  few  pink 
roses  laid  on  one  side  of  the  dish,  or  a  ring  of  pis- 
tachio ice-cream  filled  with  white  whipped  cream  or 
with  strawberries,  and  a  bunch  of  green  leaves  laid 
on  one  side  of  the  dish.  Melon 

A  melon  mold  may  be  lined  with  pistachio  ice-cream,  cream, 
the  center  filled  with  pink  ice-cream  mixed  with  a  few 
small  chocolates  to  represent  seeds,  or  with  French 
ice-cream,  which  is  yellow,  and  mixed  with  blanched 
almonds.  The  surface  of  the  melon  when  unmolded 
is  sprinkled  with  chopped  browned  almonds  to  simu- 
late a  rind.    This  dish  may  be  garnished  with  leaves.       _ 

Spun  sugar  can  be  employed  to  ornament  any  form      sugar, 
of  cream.    It  may  be  spread  over  or  be  laid  around 
it,  and  makes  a  beautiful  decoration. 

Individual  Creams,  representing  eggs  or  snow-balls, 
can  be  served  in  a  nest  of  spun  sugar.    Glace  grapes 


494  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

or  oranges  can  be  arranged  on  the  same  dish  with  in- 
dividual creams  representing  peaches  and  pears,  the 
whole  lightly  covered  with  a  little  spun  sugar. 

Individual  ice-creams,  representing  roses,  can  be 
held  by  artificial  stems,  stuck  into  a  rice  socle,  with 
Combina-  ^^^^^^^  roses  and  leaves  interspersed,  giving  the  effect 
tions.       of  a  bouquet. 

Individual  creams  are  also  served  in  baskets  of 
nougat  or  of  pulled  candy.  The  baskets  can  be  orna- 
mented by  tying  a  bunch  of  roses  with  a  ribbon  on 
the  handle. 

Individual  creams  representing  strawberries  are 
served  on  flat  baskets,  or  piled  on  a  flat  dish  and 
trimmed  with  natural  leaves. 

Forms  of  ice-cream  representing  animals  and  vege- 
tables are  in  questionable  taste,  and  are  not  recom- 
mended. 

Attention  is  called  to  the  following  creams  given  in 
the  receipts,  which  are  especially  good : 

The  coffee  and  the  chocolate  pralin^e. 

The  white  ice-cream,  plain  or  mixed  with  candied 
or  preserved  chestnuts,  or  with  candied  fruits  cut 
into  dice. 

The  maple  parfait,  which  is  quite  new. 

Fruit  ice  No.  2.  Chocolate  mousse. 

Maraschino,  Curasao,  and  noyau  make  delicious 
flavorings  for  cream. 

RECEIPTS  FOR  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES 
>  VAKULA  ICE-CREAMS 

NO.  1.      PHTT.ADELPHIA  ICE-CREAM 

1  quart  of  cream.  ^  pound,  or  1  cupful,  of  sugar. 

1  vanilla  bean  or  1  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

If  the  cream  is  very  rich  dilute  it  with  a  little  milk,  or  the 
ice-cream  will  be  too  rich^  and  alsio  it  may  form  fine  particles  of 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  495 

butter  while  being  stirred.  Put  the  cream  and  the  sugar  into 
a  double  boiler  and|  scald  them ;  when  they  are  cold  add  the 
flavoring.  If  a  vanilla  bean  is  used  it  should  be  infused  with 
the  cream  when  it  is  scalded.  Freeze  and  pack  as  directed  in 
general  directions,  page  490. 

NO.   2.      AMERICAN   ICE-CREAM    (VERY  PLAIN) 

1  quart  of  milk.  3  whole  eggs. 

1  cupful  of  sugar.  1  tablespoonful  of  vanilla. 

Scald  the  milk.  Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  together ;  stir  the 
scalded  milk  into  them  slowly ;  replace  on  the  fire  in  a  double 
boiler  and  stir  constantly  until  the  custard  coats  the  spoon ;  do 
not  let  it  boil,  or  it  will  curdle.  Beat  it  for  a  little  while  after 
taking  it  off  the  fire.  When  it  is  cold  add  the  flavoring,  and 
freeze  it  as  directed  at  head  of  chapter. 

Cream  will  improve  this  mixture,  even  if  it  be  only  a  few 
spoonfuls.  More  eggs,  also,  will  give  a  richer  ice-cream.  When 
the  cream  is  frozen  remove  the  dasher,  press  the  cream  down 
with  a  potato-masher  to  smooth  the  top  and  make  it  compact, 
and  leave  it  in  the  freezer  until  time  to  serve.  A  few  raisins,  thin 
slices  of  citron,  or  a  little  fresh  or  preserved  fruit  may  be  mixed 
in  when  the  dasher  is  removed,  and  will  much  improve  the  cream. 

NO.  3.    FRENCH  ICE-CREAM 

1  pint  of  milk.  6  egg-yolks. 

1  pint  of  cream.  1  tablespoonful  of  vanilla 

1  cupful  of  sugar.  extract  or  of  powder, 

or  1  vanilla  bean. 

Scald  the  pint  of  milk  in  a  double  boiler.   (It  is  scalded  when 

the  water  in  the  outside  kettle  boils.)    Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar 

together  until  light  and  smooth.    Stir  the  scalded  milk  slowly 

into  the  beaten  eggs  and  sugar.    Put  this  into  a  double  boiler 

and  cook,  stirring  constantly  until  it  thickens  enough  to  coat 

the  spoon.     Do  not  let  it  boil  or  cook  too  long,  or  it  will  curdle. 

If  a  vanilla  bean  is  used  it  should  be  cut  in  two  lengthwise  and 

infused  with  the  scalded  milk.     Remove  the  custard  from  the 

Note.— Plain  vanilla  ice-cream  is  very  good  served  with  hot  chocolate  sauce. 
Page  447. 


496  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

fire ;  add  the  cream  and  the  flavoring  and  stir  until  it  is  partly 
cooled.     When  cold  freeze  it  as  directed  at  head  of  chapter. 

Note  1. —  This  makes  a  solid,  fine-grained  cream.  It  can  be 
made  with  one  quart  of  cream  instead  of  half  milk,  and  eight  to 
ten  eggs  may  be  used  instead  of  six.  The  richness  depends 
upon  the  amount  of  cream,  and  the  solidity  upon  the  number  of 
yolks  used. 

Note  2. —  With  the  whites  of  the  eggs  make  an  angel  cake,  or 
keep  them  untU  next  day,  and  make  an  angel  cream  (page  497), 
or  an  angel  parfait  (page  505). 

CHOCOLATE  ICE-CBEAM 

Use  either  of  the  receipts  given  for  vanilla  creams,  according 
to  the  richness  and  quality  of  cream  desired ;  add  to  the  cus- 
tard while  it  is  hot  four  ounces  of  melted  chocolate.  To  melt 
the  chocolate  break  it  into  small  pieces ;  place  it  in  a  small 
saucepan  on  the  side  of  the  range  where  the  heat  is  not  great. 
When  it  is  melted  add  a  very  little  milk  or  custard  to  dilute 
and  smooth  it  before  adding  it  to  the  ice-cream  mixture. 
Freeze  and  pack  as  directed  at  head  of  chapter. 

CARAMEL  ICE-CREAM  No.  1 

1  pint  of  milk.  1^  tablespoonfuls  of 

1  pint  of  cream.  scraped  chocolate. 

3  whole  eggs.  Caramel. 

Scald  the  milk;  add  it  slowly  to  the  beaten  eggs;  add  the 
chocolate,  and  cook  in  a  double  boiler,  stirring  constantly  until 
the  custard  coats  the  spoon ;  then  add  the  hot  caramel.  When 
the  mixture  is  perfectly  cold  add  the  cream,  whipped,  and  freeze. 
See  general  directions. 

To  make  the  caramel,  put  a  cupful  of  sugar  with  a  half  cup- 
ful of  water  into  a  saucepan;  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved; 
then,  without  touching,  let  it  cook  until  a  golden  color — not 
longer,  or  it  will  blacken.  This  is  the  caramel  stage,  and  regis- 
ters on  the  thermometer  345°  (see  page  512). 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  497 

CAEAHEL  ICE-CB:EAM  Ho.  2 

Add  the  hot  caramel  to  any  of  the  mixtures  given  for  vanilla 
creams,  omitting  the  sugar  and  vanilla.  The  caramel  supplies 
both  sweetening  and  flavoring.  It  must  be  mixed  with  the 
custards  while  hot,  as  it  quickly  hardens,  and  will  not  then 
dissolve. 

COFFEE  ICE-OBEAH  No.  1 

To  any  of  the  receipts  given  for  vanilla  cream  add  a  half  cup- 
ful of  black  coffee,  and  omit  the  vanilla. 

COFFEE  ICE-CREAM  No.  2 

1  quart  of  milk.  1^  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

1  quart  of  cream.  J  ounce  of  isinglass  soaked 

J  cupful  of  very  black  for  half  an  hour  in  a  little 

coffee.  of  the  cold  milk. 

Scald  the  milk;  add  the  coffee  and  isinglass  and  sugar. 
When  it  is  cold  add  the  cream,  whipped,  and  freeze. 

WHITE  OR  ANGEL  ICE-CREAK 

Whites  of  6  eggs.  Italian  meringue  made  of  the 

1  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  whites  of  2  eggs  and  1 

1  pint  of  cream.  tablespoonful  of  hot  syrup. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  noyau  or  of  orange-flower  water. 

Break  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  but  do  not  beat  them  to  a  froth ; 
stir  into  them  the  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  then  add  the 
cream.  Place  it  in  a  double  boiler,  and  stir  until  it  is  scalded, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil ;  remove  from  the  fire  and  stir  until  it  is 
cold,  to  make  it  light.  When  it  is  cold  add  the  flavoring,  and 
freeze.  When  it  is  frozen  remove  the  dasher,  stir  in  the  Ital- 
ian meringue,  turn  it  into  a  mold,  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for 
two  or  three  hours.  This  cream  requires  a  little  longer  to 
freeze  than  the  other  creams. 

32 


498  THE  CENTURY  COOK   BOOK 

ITALIAN  MERINQUE 

Whip  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ;  beat  into  them 
slowly  some  boiling  syrup  cooked  to  the  ball.  This  cooks  the 
eggs  enough  to  prevent  their  separating.  The  sjTup  is  made 
by  boiling  sugar  and  water  until,  when  a  little  is  dropped  into 
cold  water,  it  will  form  a  ball  when  rolled  between  the  fingers. 

BICE  IGE-CEEAM 

Cook  a  cupful  of  rice  untU  veiy  soft.  Have  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  in  the  water  in  which  the  rice  is  boiled.  When  the  rice 
is  steamed  dry,  cover  it  with  a  thick  sugar  syrup  and  let  it 
stand  for  an  hour  or  more.  Drain  off  the  sjTup,  add  a  half 
pint  of  cream,  whipped  (this  may  be  omitted  if  preferred) ;  stir 
this  into  vanilla  cream  No.  1  or  3,  or  with  angel  ice-cream  after 
it  is  well  frozen.  Mold  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  one  or  two 
hours. 

PISTACHIO  ICE-CREAM 

Blanch  two  ounces  of  pistachio  nuts ;  this  is  done  by  pouring 
over  them  boiling  water :  after  a  few  minutes  the  skins  can  be 
easUy  removed.  Pound  the  nuts  in  a  mortar  to  a  smooth  paste, 
using  a  little  cream  to  prevent  their  oiling.  Add  this  quantity 
of  nuts  to  one  quart  of  vanilla  cream  mixture  No.  3 ;  color  it 
green,  the  shade  of  green  peas;  flavor  with  a  little  orange- 
flower  water,  then  freeze.  When  nuts  are  not  obtainable,  the 
flavor  of  pistachio  can  be  produced  with  orange-flower  water 
and  a  very  little  bitter  almond. 

KEAFOLITAK  ICE-CEEAM 

This  cream  is  molded  in  brick  form  in  thi-ee  layers  of  different 
flavors  and  colors.  Make  a  cream  after  the  receipt  for  vanilla 
cream  No.  3,  using  eight  or  ten  yolks,  as  it  should  be  solid  and 
of  fine  grain ;  omit  the  vanilla  flavoring.  Have  a  pail  packed 
in  ice ;  when  the  cream  is  frozen,  remove  one  third  of  it  to  the 
pail  and  stir  in  quickly  a  little  vanilla,  using  the  vanilla  powder 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  499 

if  convenient ;  put  this  into  the  brick-shaped  mold,  also  packed 
in  ice,  and  smooth  it  down  to  an  even  layer.  Take  from  the 
freezer  one  half  of  the  cream  remaining  in  it  and  put  it  into 
the  pail ;  stir  into  it  one  ounce  of  melted  chocolate  diluted  and 
made  smooth  with  a  little  cream  or  milk.  Place  the  chocolate 
cream  in  an  even  layer  on  the  layer  of  vanilla  cream.  To  the 
cream  remaining  in  the  freezer  add  an  ounce  of  pistachio  nuts, 
prepared  as  directed  in  receipt  for  pistachio  cream ;  color  it 
green  and  add  it  to  the  mold  for  the  third  layer.  Seal  the  joints 
of  the  mold  with  butter  to  make  it  very  tight,  as  directed  for 
molding,  page  491.  Pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  several  hours. 
The  molding  of  this  cream  must  be  done  quickly,  but  with  care 
to  have  the  layers  even.  Strawberry  ice  is  often  used  for  one 
of  the  layers  instead  of  chocolate  cream. 

NESSELRODE  FUDBING 

1  cupful  of  French  chestnuts.  ^  can  of  pineapple  (drained). 
1  cupful  of  granulated  sugar.  1^  tablespoonfuls  of  mara- 
Yolks  of  3  eggs,  schino,  or  2  tablespoonfuls 

^  pint  of  cream.  of  sherry. 

^  pound  of  mixed  candied  fruits.   ^  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
1  cupful  of  almonds.  sugar,  or  ^  teaspoonful  of 

vanilla  extract. 

1.  Remove  the  shells  from  the  chestnuts ;  put  them  in  boil- 
ing water  for  three  minutes,  then  into  cold  water,  and  take  off 
the  skins.  Boil  the  blanched  chestnuts  until  tender.  Take 
one  half  of  them  and  press  them  through  a  sieve.  They  will 
go  through  more  easily  while  hot. 

2.  Blanch  the  almonds ;  chop  them  fine  and  pound  them. 

3.  Cut  the  candied  fruits  and  the  chestnuts  into  dice ;  pour 
over  them  the  maraschino  and  let  them  stand  until  ready  to  use. 

4.  Put  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  a  cupful  of  granulated 
sugar  and  one  quarter  cupful  of  boiling  water ;  stir  until  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  then  let  it  cook  slowly  for  five  minutes, 
making  a  sugar  syrup. 


600  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

5.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  until  light.  Pour  onto  them 
slowly,  stirring  all  the  time,  the  sugar  syrup ;  place  them  on 
the  fire  and  stir  constantly  until  the  mixture  is  enough  thick- 
ened to  coat  the  spoon  and  has  the  consistency  of  thick  cream. 
Remove  it  from  the  fire,  turn  it  into  a  bowl,  and  beat  it  until  it 
is  cold.  When  it  is  cold  add  a  half  pint  of  cream,  the  mashed 
chestnuts,  the  pounded  almonds,  and  the  vanilla  flavoring,  and 
freeze  it.  When  it  is  frozen  remove  the  lid  of  the  freezer,  add 
the  fruits,  replace  the  lid,  and  turn  the  freezer  for  another  five 
minutes.  Put  the  cream  into  a  fancy  mold  and  pack  in  ice  and 
salt  until  ready  to  use.  Serve  with  it  whipped  cream,  or  the 
sauce  given  below  for  plum  pudding  glac§  flavored  with  mara- 
schino. This  makes  a  quart  of  cream,  and,  being  very  rich,  is 
enough  to  serve  to  ten  persons. 

Gouff6  gives  the  receipt  for  this  pudding,  which  he  says  he 
obtained  from  the  chef  of  Count  Nesselrode.  He  omits  the 
grated  almonds,  and  uses  stoned  raisins  and  currants  instead  of 
candied  fruits.  When  the  cream  is  half  frozen  he  adds  a  half 
pint  of  whipped  cream.  The  raisins  and  currants  are  boiled 
until  plump  and  added  after  the  cream  is  frozen,  but  before  it 
is  packed. 

PLUM  PUDDING  GLACE 

Make  a  chocolate  ice-cream  as  directed  on  page  496,  using  the 
French  ice-cream  mixture.  Have  a  scant  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  mixed  fruit,  composed  of  seeded  raisins  and  currants 
boiled  until  plump,  thin  slices  of  citron,  a  few  candied  cherries 
and  apricots  if  convenient.  Pour  over  them  a  little  sherry  and 
let  them  stand  long  enough  to  be  a  little  softened.  When  the 
cream  is  frozen,  drain  the  fruit  and  mix  it  into  the  cream,  turn- 
ing the  dasher  for  a  few  minutes  to  get  it  well  mixed  and  again 
hardened.  Place  it  in  a  melon  mold  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt. 
This  will  make  about  two  quarts  of  cream.  Serve  with  a  sauce 
placed  around  it  on  the  same  dish.  The  sauce  may  be  whipped 
cream  flavored  with  a  little  kirsch  or  brandy,  or  a  sauce  made 
as  follows. 


FROZEN  DESSEETS  501 

SAUCE  FOE  PLUM  PUDDING  OLACE   OR  FOR  NESSEIRODE 

PUDDING 

Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar  to  a  cream.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler 
until  the  egg  is  a  little  thickened,  but  not  hard.  Continue  to 
beat  the  egg  until  it  is  cold.  It  wiU  then  be  light  and  creamy ; 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  or  of  kirsch,  or  of  rum,  or  of 
maraschino ;  and  then  mix  in  lightly  a  half  pint  of  cream  whipped 
to  a  dry,  stiff  froth. 

TUTTI-FRUTTI 

Make  a  French  vanilla  ice-cream,  page  495.  Cut  into  small 
dice  four  ounces  each  of  candied  cherries,  apricots,  and  plums ; 
and  other  fruits  may  be  used  if  desired.  Let  them  soak  until  a 
little  softened  in  maraschino,  or  kirsch,  or  sherry.  When  the 
cream  is  frozen,  stir  in  the  salpicon  of  fruit,  drained ;  replace 
the  lid  of  the  freezer  and  turn  it  for  five  minutes.  Turn  it  into 
a  fancy  mold  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  until  ready  to  use.  The 
angel  ice-cream,  page  497,  may  be  used  instead  of  the  vanilla 
No.  3  if  preferred.  Serve  with  the  Tutti-Frutti  a  sauce  of 
whipped  cream  flavored  with  kirsch,  maraschino,  or  sherry, 

FRUIT  ICE-CREAMS 

No.  1.  Berries,  or  any  kind  of  larger  fruit  cut  into  small 
pieces,  may  be  added  to  any  of  the  vanilla  creams  after 
they  are  frozen.  Remove  the  paddle  of  the  freezer, 
mix  the  fruit  in  well,  then  mold  and  pack  in  ice  and 
salt  for  one  or  two  hours.  The  fruit  will  become  too 
solid  if  packed  for  a  long  time. 

No.  2.  Crush  any  fruit  or  berries  to  a  pulp.  Sweeten  it  to 
taste  with  a  thick  sugar  syrup  (32°  on  the  syrup  gauge). 
Freeze  the  same  as  any  ice  cream,  and  pack  in  ice  and 
salt  if  molded.  This  makes  a  delicious  ice.  Sugar 
may  be  used  instead  of  syrup  for  sweetening,  but  the 
latter  gives  a  better  result. 


602  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

No.  3.  Using  canned  fruit.  Strain  the  liquor  from  the  fruit ; 
sweeten  it  if  necessary  with  sugar  or  with  syrup. 
Mix  it  with  an  equal  quantity  of  cream,  and  freeze. 
When  it  is  frozen  add  the  drained  fruit.  Mix  it  well 
together.  Mold  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  one  or  two 
hours.  The  fruit  will  become  hard  if  it  is  packed  too 
long.  Preserved  strawbemes  are  a  particularly  good 
fruit  to  use  for  ice-cream. 
Note. — Strawberries,  raspbemes,  cherries,  peaches,  apricots, 

plums,  pineapple,  bananas,  and  oranges  are  the  fruits  generally 

used  for  ices  and  creams. 

FRXTIT  PUDDINGS 

No.  4.  Line  a  mold  one  or  one  and  a  half  inches  thick  with 
vanilla  ice-cream;  fill  the  center  with  fresh  straw- 
berries, raspberries,  whortleberries,  peaches,  bananas, 
or  any  fruit.  Cover  the  top  with  cream.  Pack  in  ice 
and  salt  for  two  hours.  The  fruit  may  be  mixed  with 
whipped  cream,  if  convenient,  when  it  is  put  in  the 
center  of  the  mold.  Whipped  cream  may  also  be 
served  as  a  sauce  with  this  cream. 

NUT  IGE-GBEAMS 

Vanilla  ice  cream  No.  3,  also  angel  ice-cream,  is  good  with 
chopped  nuts  mixed  with  it  after  it  is  frozen  and  before  it  is 
packed.  Boiled  chestnuts  cut  into  small  pieces,  chopped  Eng- 
lish walnuts,  filberts,  pecan  nuts,  or  almonds  may  be  used. 
Almonds  should  be  blanched,  chopped,  and  browned ;  and  a 
caramel  or  an  almond  flavoring  is  better  than  vanilla  for  the 
Sream  when  almonds  are  used. 

PAEFAITS 

TfflS  class  of  ice-creams  is  very  easily  made,  as  they  are  not 
stirred  while  freezing.  The  yolks  of  eggs  are  cooked  with 
sugar  syrup  to  a  thick  smooth  cream,  then  flavored  and  beaten 


FBOZEN  DESSERTS  503 

until  cold  and  light,  and  mixed  with  drained  whipped  cream. 
They  are  then  simply  put  into  a  mold  and  packed  in  ice  and 
salt  for  three  or  four  hours,  according  to  size  of  mold.  They 
are  not  solid  like  the  custard  ice-creams,  but  have  a  sponge-like 
texture.  They  should  not  be  frozen  too  hard.  It  is  because 
they  have  no  water  in  them  to  crystallize  that  they  do  not 
require  to  be  stirred  while  freezing. 

SUGAB  STBTJF 

Put  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  a  half  cupful  of  water  into  a 
saucepan  on  the  fire.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  let 
it  cook  slowly  without  touching  it  for  about  ten  minutes,  or 
until  it  is  a  clear  syrup.  The  syrup  can  be  made  in  larger 
quantities  and  kept  in  preserve  jars  ready  for  use.  To  keep 
well  it  should  be  boiled  to  a  rather  thick  consistency,  or  should 
register  32°  on  the  syrup  gauge.  For  parfaits  it  should  be 
thinner  or  register  20°.  For  water  ices  it  should  register  32° 
(see  boiling  sugar,  page  513). 

In  using  syrups  by  measure,  articles  may  be  too  much  sweet- 
ened if  the  right  degree  is  not  designated ;  but  if  one  has  not  a 
syrup  gauge  the  sweetening  must  be  determined  by  taste.  All 
classes  of  ice-creams  are  better  sweetened  with  syrup  than  with 
sugar.    It  seems  to  give  them  more  smoothness  and  delicacy. 

VANILIA  PAEFAIT 

Beat  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  until  light ;  add  one  cupful  of 
syrup.  Place  the  mixture  on  a  slow  fire  and  stir  constantly 
until  the  eggs  have  thickened  enough  to  make  a  thick  coating 
on  the  spoon.  Turn  it  into  a  bowl  and  beat  it  with  a  whip 
until  it  is  cold ;  it  will  then  be  very  light.  If  a  vanilla  bean  is 
used  for  flavoring,  infuse  it  with  the  syrup ;  if  the  extract  is 
used  add  a  teaspoonful  of  it  to  the  custard  when  it  is  taken 
from  the  fire.  When  the  custard  is  cold  add  a  pint  of  cream 
whipped  to  a  stiff  froth.  (If  any  liquid  has  drained  from  the 
cream  do  not  let  it  go  in.)  Stir  these  lightly  together ;  turn  the 
mixture  into  a  mold  holding  three  pints.     Pack  in  ice  and  salt 


504  THE  CENT  UK  Y  COOK  BOOK 

for  four  hours.     Make  the  joints  of  the  mold  very  tight  as 
directed  for  molding  at  head  of  chapter. 

This  cream  can  be  varied  by  using  different  flavorings  in 
place  of  the  vanilla:  a  tablespoonful  of  Curasao  or  of  noyau, 
two  ounces  of  chocolate  melted  and  smoothed  with  a  little 
cream,  etc.,  etc. 

MAPLE  PAEFAIT 

This  is  made  the  same  as  the  vanilla  parfait,  using  maple 
syrup  in  place  of  the  sugar  syrup,  and  omitting  the  vanilla  fla- 
voring. Maple  syrup  may  be  made  by  adding  water  to  maple 
sugar  and  cooking  it  to  the  right  consistency. 

PABFAIT  AU  CAEE  AND  CAPE  PRALIHE 

Put  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  into  a  saucepan ;  beat  them  light ; 
add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  syrup  and  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  strong  black  coffee.  Stir  the  mixture  over  a  slow  fire  until 
it  is  enough  thickened  to  make  a  thick  coating  on  the  spoon. 
Turn  it  into  a  bowl  and  beat  it  until  it  is  cold  and  light.  If 
making  coffee  pralin6,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  praline 
powder  (see  below).  Mix  in  lightly  a  pint  of  cream  whipped  to 
a  stiff  froth.  If  any  liquid  has  drained  from  the  cream  do  not 
let  it  go  in.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  mold  holding  three  pints 
and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  four  hours. 

CHOCOLATE  PABFAIT  AND  CHOCOLATE  PBALIH^ 

Put  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  into  a  saucepan ;  beat  them  until 
light ;  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  syrup.  Cook  over  a 
slow  fire,  stirring  constantly  until  it  makes  a  thick  coating  on 
the  spoon.  Turn  it  into  a  bowl ;  add  two  ounces  of  melted  un- 
sweetened chocolate  and  beat  until  it  is  cold  and  light.  If 
making  chocolate  praline,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  praline 
powder ;  stir  in  lightly  a  pint  of  cream  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth. 
If  any  liquid  has  drained  from  the  cream  do  not  let  it  go  in. 
Pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  four  hours.  This  makes  three  pints  of 
cream. 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  505 

PRALINE  POWDER 

Put  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  a  half  cupful  of 
water  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire ;  stir  until  the  sugar  is  well 
dissolved ;  then  add  a  cupful  of  shelled  almonds  and  a  cupful 
of  shelled  filberts  without  removing  the  skins.  Let  it  cook, 
without  touching,  until  it  attains  a  golden  color,  the  caramel 
stage.  Turn  it  onto  a  slab  or  oUed  dish.  When  it  is  cold 
pound  it  in  a  mortar  to  a  coarse  powder.  Keep  the  praline 
powder  in  a  close  preserve  jar  ready  for  use. 

ANGEL  PARFAIT 

Whip  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Put  a  half 
cupful  of  sugar  and  a  half  cupful  of  water  into  a  saucepan  on 
the  fire.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  let  it  cook  slowly, 
without  touching,  to  the  ball,  or  until  a  little  dropped  into  cold 
water  will  form  a  ball  when  rolled  between  the  fingers.  Pour 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  the  boiling-hot  syrup  slowly  onto  the 
whipped  whites,  beating  constantly.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla,  or  of  maraschino,  or  of  sherry,  or  of  noyau,  or  any 
other  flavoring.  When  the  Italian  meringue  is  cold,  add  a 
pint  of  cream  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth.  Do  not  let  any  liquid 
that  has  drained  from  the  cream  go  into  the  mixture.  Mold 
and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  four  hours. 

IMPERATRIGE  OF  RICE  PUDDING  GLACE 

Boil  a  scant  half  cupful  of  rice  in  milk  and  water  as  directed 
for  boiling  rice,  page  222,  so  each  grain  will  be  separate ;  but 
it  must  be  quite  soft,  so  boil  it  half  an  hour.  This  will  make 
a  cupful  of  rice  when  boiled.  Whip  half  a  pint  of  cream  to 
a  stiff  froth ;  mix  into  it  four  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar 
and  one  tablespoonf ul  of  noyau  or  any  flavoring  desired ;  mix 
the  rice  lightly  with  the  whipped  cream.  Turn  it  into  a  mold, 
and  as  quickly  as  possible  pack  it ;  leave  it  in  the  ice  and  salt 
for  three  hours. 

This  gives  about  a  quart  of  cream. 


506  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

FABFAITS  OF  CHESTNUTS,  CAISTSIES,  FRUITS,  FBESH 
FRUITS,  OR  BERRIES 

Make  a  vanilla  parfait  as  directed,  page  503.  When  the  mix. 
ture  is  ready  to  go  in  the  mold  add  a  cupful  of  boiled  chestnuts, 
or  marrons  glace,  or  of  mixed  candied  fruits  cut  into  dice. 
Roll  thera  in  powdered  sugar  so  each  piece  will  be  dry  and 
separate  and  not  sink  to  the  bottom.  Stir  them  in  quickly  and 
pack  the  mold  as  quickly  as  possible  after  the  fruit  is  mixed  in, 
When  fresh  fruits  or  berries  are  used  crush  the  fruit ;  strain 
off  the  juice;  add  enough  powdered  sugar  to  the  pulp  to  make 
it  of  the  same  consistency  as  the  whipped  cream.  Pack  in  ice 
and  salt  for  three  hours. 

BISCUITS  GLACE 

Make  a  syrup  of  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  quarter  cupful  of 
water.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs ;  add  to  them  three  quar- 
ters of  a  cupful  of  syrup  and  a  half  cupful  of  cream  or  milk. 
Place  the  mixture  on  the  fire  and  cook,  stirring  constantly  un- 
til it  makes  a  thick  coating  on  the  spoon.  Turn  it  into  a  bowl ; 
place  it  on  the  ice,  and  beat  it  until  it  is  cold  and  quite  stiff  and 
light ;  then  fold  in  lightly  a  pint  of  cream  whipped  to  a  stiff 
froth.  If  any  liquid  has  drained  from  the  cream  do  not  let  it 
go  in.  For  flavoring  infuse  a  vanilla  bean  with  the  syrup,  or 
add  a  teaspoouful  of  vanilla  extract,  or  of  maraschino,  or 
any  flavoring  desired,  to  the  custard  when  it  is  taken  from  the 
fire.  Put  the  mixture  into  paper  boxes ;  sprinkle  over  the  top 
some  chopped  browned  almonds  or  some  macaroons  rolled  to 
crumbs,  and  pack.  Tin  boxes  containing  a  framework  of  shelves 
are  made  for  holding  individual  ices  while  freezing,  but  a  tin 
lard-pail  can  be  used  if  necessary,  placing  a  sheet  of  paper  be- 
tween each  layer  of  boxes.  Securely  seal  with  butter  the  lid  of 
the  pail  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  four  or  five  hours. 

MOUSSES 

Whip  a  pint  of  cream  very  stiff ;  turn  it  onto  a  sieve  to  drain 
for  a  few  minutes  so  it  will  be  entirely  dry.    Return  it  to  the 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  507 

bowl  and  whip  into  it  lightly  four  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar  and  a  tablespoonful  of  cura9ao,  of  noyau,  of  kirseh,  or 
of  very  black  coffee,  or  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  any  flavoring  extract, 
or  an  ounce  of  chocolate,  melted,  and  diluted  with  a  little  milk  or 
cream,  and  flavor  with  a  few  drops  of  vanilla.  When  a  liqueui- 
is  used  for  flavoring  less  sugar  is  needed  than  with  coffee,  choco- 
late, or  essences.  Turn  the  cream  into  a  mold  and  pack  it  in 
ice  and  salt  for  four  hours.  Garnish  the  dish  with  small  iced 
cakes. 

FBUIT  MOUSSES 

Whip  a  pint  of  cream  very  stiff  and  drain  as  directed  above. 
Mix  with  it  a  cupful  of  any  fruit-pulp,  the  juice  drained  off  and 
the  pulp  mixed  with  enough  powdered  sugar  to  make  it  of  the 
same  consistency  as  the  whipped  cream ;  a  little  cochineal 
added  to  strawberry  or  to  peach  mousse  gives  it  a  better  color. 
A  little  vanilla  improves  the  flavor.  Mold  and  pack  in  ice  and 
salt  for  three  hours. 

GOLDEN  MOUSSE   (Made  without  Cream) 

3  eggs.  1  tablespoonful  of  syrup 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry.  with  the  yolks. 

^  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice.    2  tablespoonfuls  of  syrup 

with  the  whites. 

Beat  the  yolks  smooth ;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  syrup,  and 
cook,  stirring  constantly  until  the  mixture  makes  a  thick  coat- 
ing on  the  spoon.  Remove  from  the  fire,  add  the  sherry  and 
lemon- juice,  and  beat  it  until  it  is  light  and  cold ;  whip  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ;  pour  into  them  slowly  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  syrup  cooked  to  the  ball  (see  Italian 
meringue,  page  498) ;  add  the  Italian  meringue  to  the  mixture 
of  yolks,  put  it  into  a  mold,  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  four 
hours.  This  mousse  can  be  flavored  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
kirseh,  rum,  or  brandy  instead  of  sherry.  A  few  while  grapes 
or  candied  cherries  laid  in  the  bottom  of  the  mold  before  the 
mixture  is  put  in,  makes  the  dish  more  ornamental. 


508  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

WATER-ICES 

Water-ices  are  made  of  fruit-juice  sweetened  with,  sugar 
syrup.  Sugar  may  be  used,  but  the  result  is  better  with  syrup. 
The  liquid  mixture  should  register  20°  on  the  syrup  gauge,  but 
if  one  is  not  at  hand,  it  can  be  sweetened  to  taste. 

A  good  way  of  preparing  it  is  to  make  a  syrup  of  32°  and 
add  enough  fruit  juice  to  dilute  it  to  20°.  Freeze  the  same  as 
ice-cream,  and  pack  in  salt  and  ice.  The  ices  will  not  get  so 
hard  as  creams.     The  following  method  may  also  be  used : 

OBANGE-IGE 

Boil  a  quart  of  water  and  two  and  one  half  cupf uls  of  sugar 
for  ten  minutes ,  strain  and  add  the  juice  of  six  oranges  and 
one  lemon.     When  cold,  freeze. 

LEMON-ICE 

Add  to  the  amount  of  sugar  and  water  given  above  the  juice 
of  four  lemons  and  one  orange. 

STRAWBEEEY-ICE 

To  a  quart  of  syrup  made  as  given  above,  add  a  cupful  and  a 
half  of  strawberry- juice. 

Ices  may  be  made  of  any  fruit  used  in  the  same  proportions. 

PUNCHES  AND   SHERBETS 

These  ices  are  served  in  glasses  after  the  joint  or 
Serving,     last  entree,  and  before  the  game.    A  quart  is  enough 
for  twelve  portions. 

Punches  differ  from  sherbets  only  in  having  a 
little  Italian  meringue  added  to  them  just  before 
Liquors,  serving.  They  are  simply  water-ices  with  liquors 
added.  Roman  Punch  has  a  cupful  or  two  gills  of 
rum  added  to  a  quart  of  lemon-ice.  Punches  having 
other  names  are  made  in  the  same  way,  but  have  other 
liquors  or  mixtures  of  liquors.    These  may  be  kirsch, 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  509 

Mrsch  and  rum,  kirsch  and  maraschino,  rum  and 
sherry,  or  any  other  combination  desired.  When 
champagne  is  used  it  is  generally  added  to  orange- 
ice. 

Strawberry,  raspberry,  pineapple,  or  orange-ices 
are  generally  used  for  sherbets  with  liqueurs  such 
as  cura9ao,  maraschino,  noyau,  etc.,  combined  with 
kirsch,  rum,  or  champagne. 

The  liquors  can  be  added  to  the  ice  mixture  before  _,.  .  . 
it  is  frozen,  in  which  case  it  takes  them  longer  to  theliqaors. 
freeze  j  (in  fact,  spirits  will  not  freeze  at  all,  and  hence 
these  ices  are  always  soft,  and  have  to  be  eaten  with 
a  spoon) ;  or  the  liquors  may  be  poured  over  the  frozen 
mixture  and  stirred  in  with  the  paddlco  Sometimes 
the  water-ice  is  placed  in  the  glasses  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  the  liquor  or  mixture  of  liquors  is  poured  over 
each  glassful  at  the  moment  of  serving. 

COFFEE  PUNCH 

Mix  together  a  quart  of  black  coffee,  a  cupful  of  cream, 
three  quarters  cupful  of  sugar ;  freeze,  and  then  mix  in  a  half 
cupful  of  brandy  or  rum,  and  a  half  pint  of  cream,  whipped, 
and  let  it  stand  half  an  hour.    Stir  it  well  before  serving. 

CAFE  FRAFPE 

Mix  a  quart  of  black  coffee  with  a  quart  of  cream  and  a  cup- 
ful of  sugar,  or,  better,  sweeten  with  syrup.  Freeze  the  same 
as  ice-cream,  and  serve  in  glasses.  A  little  brandy  may  be 
mixed  in  just  before  serving,  if  desired. 

LALLA  EOOEH 

Make  a  vanilla  cream  No.  3.  When  it  is  frozen  add  a  cupful 
of  Jamaica  rum.    Turn  the  dasher  until  it  is  well  mixed. 

AUow  a  cupful  of  rum  to  each  quart  of  cream.  Serve  in 
glasses  the  same  as  punch. 


Chapter  XXIH 

SUGAE  AND  ITS  USES 
BOILDTG  SUGAR  AND  MAKING  CANDIES 

BOILING  SUGAR 

To  boil  sugar  is  one  of  the  niceties  of  cooking,  but 
as  the  uses  of  boiled  sugar  in  fancy  cooking  are  so 
various,  it  is  worth  some  practice  to  acquire  the  re- 
quisite skiU.  With  the  ordinary  ways  of  testing,  it  re- 
quires much  experience  to  tell  the  exact  point  at  which 
to  arrest  the  cooking,  and  on  this  the  success  depends. 
The  stages  named  "  thread,"  "  blow,"  ''  ball,"  etc.,  give 
the  different  degrees  required  for  different  purposes.  It 
passes  quickly  from  one  to  the  other  and  needs  care- 
ful watching  and  close  attention.  The  professional 
cook's  method  of  testing  it  by  dipping  in  the  fingers 
is  not  practicable  for  ordinary  use.  It  is  also  difficult 
to  judge  by  dropping  it  in  water  unless  experienced, 
but  with  a  sugar  thermometer  it  can  easily  be  deter- 
mined with  perfect  exactness  and  much  less  trouble. 
A  sugar  thermometer  costs  $1.75  or  $2.00,  a  syrup 
gauge  costs  fifty  cents,  and  both  should  be  considered 
as  necessary  cooking  utensils  as  are  molds,  mortars, 
and  other  articles  used  in  fancy  cooking.  For  measur- 
ing syrups,  the  syrup  gauge  is  used  as  explained  be- 
low. Ice-creams  and  frozen  fruits  are  much  nicer 
when  sweetened  with  syrup  instead  of  sugar.  Water- 
ices  and  compotes  to  be  right  must  measure  a  certain 
density,  and  for  this  the  syrup  gauge  is  employed 

510 


Is  1^1 

Jl®  P  ffl  ST 

(^  ^  ^  i^  C3    S 

»  55  3  '^  31     ^^ 
O  I«^g    ^ 

il|ii5 

2  -d  ^  P  s;  5 
«  Sis  £.= 

5  ►<  o  a,5 
•  »B*| 

Bas  o  -s 
S-»g 


SUGAR  AND  ITS  USES  511 

Fondant,  one  of  the  very  useful  articles,  candies,  and 
spun  sugar  are  easily  made  with  the  aid  of  the  ther- 
mometer. Eleven  stages  of  sugar  are  explained  be- 
low, but  it  is  not  essential  to  learn  exactly  more  than 
the  four  which  are  most  used,  namely:  the  "  thread"  for 
boiled  icing,  the  "soft-ball"  for  fondant,  the  *' crack" 
for  glac6  fruit,  and  the  "  caramel." 

GRANULATION 

The  tendency  of  sugar,  when  the  water  which  holds 
it  in  solution  is  evaporated,  is  to  resume  its  original 
form  of  crystals ;  to  prevent  this  is  the  chief  care :  the 
liquid  must  not  be  jarred  or  stirred  after  the  sugar  is 
dissolved.  The  grains  which  form  on  the  sides  of  the 
pan  as  the  boiling  proceeds  must  be  wiped  away ;  this 
is  done  by  dipping  a  cloth  or  brush  into  water  and 
passing  it  around  the  pan  above  the  sugar.  If  these 
crystals  are  allowed  to  remain,  the  whole  mass  will 
become  granular.  Also  the  sugar  has  a  great  affinity 
for  water,  and  care  inust  be  used  to  have  a  dry  atmos- 
phere. No  steam  from  boiling  kettles,  etc.,  must  be 
in  the  room,  and  it  is  useless  to  attempt  confections 
requiring  the  ball  or  crack  stages  on  a  rainy  or  damp 
day.  When  the  right  degree  is  reached,  place  the 
sugar  pan  in  one  containing  cold  water,  to  prevent  the 
cooking  from  proceeding  any  farther.  The  different 
stages  follow  very  quickly  after  the  thread ;  it  is  there- 
fore well  to  have  a  moderate  heat  and  give  it  undi- 
vided attention.  A  very  little  cream  of  tartar  (a  scant 
half  saltspoonful  to  a  pound  of  sugar)  added  at  the 
beginning  makes  the  sugar  less  liable  to  grain.  If 
cream  of  tartar  is  not  used,  a  few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice  should  be  added  at  the  crack  stage.  If  the  sugar 
passes  the  degree  desired,  add  a  spoonful  of  water 
and  continue  the  boiling.  No  sugar  need  ever  be 
wasted  unless  it  becomes  burned.    In  working  the 


513 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


sugar,  if  it  begins  to  grain  there  is  nothing  to  do  but 
to  add  a  little  water  and  boil  it  again. 


Fint  and 
second  de- 
greet. 


Third  and 
foarth. 


Fifth  and 
sixth. 


Seventh 
and  eighth. 


Ninth  and 
Tenth. 


Eleventh. 


DEGREES  OP  BOILING  SUGAE 

SmaU  Thread,  215°. 

Large  Thread,  217°. 

Press  a  little  of  the  syrup  between  the  thumb  and 
finger.  A  ring  will  form  and  a  fine  thread  be  drawn 
out  which  breaks  at  once  and  returns  to  the  drop; 
for  the  second  stage  the  thread  draws  a  little  farther 
than  the  first. 

Little  Pearl,  220°. 

Large  Pearl,  222°. 

The  sugar  forms  a  thread  between  the  fingers  which 
stretches  long,  but  breaks.  For  the  fourth  it  stretches 
without  breaking.    The  first  four  degflses  are  syrups. 

The  Blow,  230°      (  „...•' 

The  Feather,  232°.  i  crystallization. 

Dip  in  a  broom-straw  twisted  to  form  a  small  loop 
at  the  end.  A  film  will  fill  the  loop,  which  will  blow 
into  a  bubble. 

At  the  sixth  stage  fine  threads  will  fly  from  the 
bubble.    The  candy  stages  follow : 

SmaU  Ball,  2360-238o. 

Large  BaU,  2460-248o. 

Drop  a  little  into  cold  water ;  for  the  7th  a  soft  ball 
can  be  rolled  between  the  fingers ;  for  the  8th  a  hard 
ball. 

Small  Crack,  290°. 

Crack,  310°. 

At  the  9th  a  little,  dropped  into  water,  will  break 
when  cooled.  At  300°  it  begins  to  assume  a  light 
color,  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  should  be  added 
(four  drops  to  a  pound  of  sugar).  At  310°  it  breaks 
off  sharp  and  crisp,  and  crackles  when  chewed. 

The  Caramel,  3450-350°. 


SUGAR  AND  ITS  USES  513 

It  now  assumes  a  yellow  color,  and  great  care  must 
be  used  or  it  will  burn.  The  cooking  must  be  arrested 
as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from  the  fire  by  holding  the 
pan  in  cold  water  for  a  minute  or  so.  A  skewer  or 
stick  is  the  best  thing  to  use  for  testing,  as  the  little 
sugar  that  adheres  to  it  will  cool  quickly.  Dip  the 
stick  first  into  water,  then  into  the  sugar,  and  again 
into  water. 

SYRUPS 

To  use  a  syrup  gauge  have  a  glass  deep  enough  to 
allow  the  gauge  to  float.  A  small  cylindrical  glass  like 
the  one  shown  in  illustration  is  best,  as  it  requires  so 
little  syrup  that  removing  and  pouring  it  back  does  Bjnmkmt 
not  arrest  the  boiling.  Syrups  can  be  prepared  and  in  stock, 
kept  in  air-tight  preserve  jars  until  needed  for  use. 
It  is  weU  to  have  in  stock  syrup  at  34°  for  soften- 
ing fondant  when  used  for  icing  cakes,  Eclairs,  etc. 
Water-ices  should  register  18°-20°  on  the  gauge  when 
ready  to  freeze.  Fruits  to  be  frozen  are  better  when 
sweetened  with  syrup  at  32°  than  when  sugar  is  used. 

To  prepare  syrup  without  a  gauge  the  following     Making 
method  can  be  employed :  Put  into  a  saucepan  three    ^^^^  a 
and  one  half  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  two  and  one  half      gauge, 
cupf uls  of  water.     Stir  it  over  the  fire  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved.    After  it  has  boiled  five  minutes,  count- 
ing from  the  time  it  is  actually  boiling,  it  will  register 
28° ;  every  five  minutes'  ^.dditional  boiling  will  thicken 
it  one  degree. 

At  the  end  of  15  minutes  it  is  30°. 

At  the  end  of  25  minutes  it  is  32°. 

At  the  end  of  35  minutes  it  is  34°. 

FONDANT 

Fondant  is  the  basis  of  all  French  cream  candies. 
It  can  be  kept  any  length  of  time  in  air-tight  preserve 


614 


THE  C3ENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


jars,  and  used  as  needed  for  the  various  purposes 
which  it  serves.  A  great  variety  of  bonbons  can  be 
The  nses  of  ™^^®  ^^  ^^  ^7  using  different  flavors,  colors,  and  nuts 
fimdant  in  various  forms  and  combinations.  Some  of  these  are 
given  under  "  Candies,"  but  each  one's  taste  may  sug- 
gest something  different.  Fondant  makes  the  nicest 
icing  for  small  cakes ;  strawberries  with  the  hulls  on 
dipped  into  fondant  make  a  delicious  fruit  glac6.  It 
will  be  found  easy  to  make  fondant  if  the  directions 
given  below  are  strictly  followed. 

TO  MAKE  FONDANT 

Place  in  a  copper  or  a  graniteware  saucepan  two 
cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar,  one  cupful  of  water,  and 
a  scant  half  saltspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar.  Stir 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  but  not  a  minute  longer. 
As  it  boils,  a  thin  scum  of  crystals  will  form  around 
the  edge  of  the  pan.  These  must  be  wiped  away  by 
wetting  a  cloth  or  brush  in  water  and  passing  it 
around  the  dish  without  touching  the  boiling  sugar. 
This  must  be  done  frequently,  or  as  often  as  the  crys- 
tals form,  or  the  whole  mass  will  become  granular. 

Tectisg.  When  large  bubbles  rise  it  must  be  carefully  watched 
and  tested,  as  from  this  time  it  quickly  passes  from 
one  stage  to  another.  Have  a  cup  of  ice-water  and  a 
skewer  or  small  stick ;  dip  it  into  the  water,  then  into 
the  sugar,  and  again  into  the  water.  If  the  sugar 
which  adheres  to  it  can  be  rolled  into  a  soft  baU,  it  is 
done.  This  is  the  stage  of  small-ball,  and  the  ther- 
mometer registers  2360-238°  (see  page  512).  Have 
ready  a  marble  slab,  very  lightly  but  evenly  rubbed 
over  with  sweet-oil.  If  a  slab  is  not  at  hand,  a  large 
platter  wiU  serve  the  purpose.  The  moment  the  sugar 
is  done,  pour  it  over  the  slab  and  let  it  cool  a  few 

Cooling,  minutes,  or  until,  pressing  it  with  the  finger,  it  leaves 
a  dent  on  the  surface.    If  stirred  while  too  warm  it 


SUGAB  AND  ITS  USES  616 

will  grain.  If  a  crust  forms,  every  particle  of  it  must 
be  taken  off,  or  else  the  boiling  must  be  done  again, 
as  it  shows  it  has  cooked  a  little  too  long.  When  it 
will  dent,  work  it  with  a  wooden  spatula,  keeping  the 
mass  in  the  center  as  much  as  possible.  Continue  to 
stir  until  it  becomes  a  very  smooth,  fine,  white,  creamy  Working, 
paste,  which  is  soft  and  not  brittle  and  can  be  worked 
in  the  hands  like  a  thick  paste.  If  the  results  are  not 
right  and  the  mass  becomes  grained,  the  sugar  need 
not  be  wasted,  but  can  be  put  in  the  saucepan 
with  a  spoonful  of  water  and  boiled  again.  In  stir- 
ring the  fondant  do  not  mix  in  the  scrapings  unless 
the  whole  is  still  very  soft.  They  can  be  worked  by 
themselves  afterward.  Confectioners  use  one  part  of 
glucose  to  ten  of  sugar  and  boil  to  240°. 

SPUN  SUGAR 

Although  spinning  sugar  has  been  eaUed  the  climax 
of  the  art  of  sugar  work,  one  need  not  be  deterred 
from  trying  it;  for  with  a  dry  atmosphere,  the  sugar  „ 
boiled  to  the  right  degree,  and  care  given  to  prevent  requisites, 
graining,  it  can  be  accomplished.  It  is  upon  these 
three  things  alone  that  success  depends.  Spun  sugar 
makes  a  beautiful  decoration  for  ice-creams,  glace 
fruits,  and  other  cold  desserts.  The  expense  of  mak- 
ing it  is  only  nominal,  but  it  commands  a  fancy  price. 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  SPINNING  SUGAR 

Put  in  a  copper  >  r  a  graniteware  saucepan  two  cup- 
f uls  (one  pound)  of  sugar ;  one  half  cupful  of  water, 
and  one  half  saltspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar.  Boil 
the  sugar  as  directed  for  fondant  above,  letting  it 
attain  the  degree  of  crack,  or  310°.  This  is  the  degree 
just  before  caramel,  and  care  must  be  used.  When  it 
has  reached  the  crack,  place  the  sugar  pan  in  cold 


516  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

water  a  moment  to  arrest  the  cooking,  for  the  heat  of 
the  pan  and  sugar  may  advance  it  one  degree.  For 
spinning,  two  forks  may  be  used,  but  a  few  wires 
drawn  through  a  cork  are  better,  as  they  give  more 
points.  Have  also  two  iron  bars  or  rods  of  any  kind 
(pieces  of  broom  handle  will  do),  placed  on  a  table  or 
over  chairs  so  the  ends  project  a  little  way ;  spread 
some  papers  on  the  floor  under  them.  Take  the  pan 
of  sugar  in  the  left  hand,  the  forks  or  wires  in  the 
right }  dip  them  into  the  sugar  and  shake  them  quickly 
back  and  forth  over  the  rods ;  fine  threads  of  sugar 
will  fly  off  the  points  and  drop  on  the  rods.  If  the 
sugar  gets  too  cold  it  can  be  heated  again.  Take  the 
spun  sugar  carefully  off  the  rods  from  time  to  time 
and  fold  it  around  molds,  or  roll  it  into  nests  or  other 
Keeping,  forms  desired.  Place  th«  spun  sugar  under  a  glass 
globe  as  soon  as  made.  Under  an  air-tight  globe 
with  a  small  piece  of  lime  it  may  keep  crisp  for  a  day 
or  two,  but  it  readily  gathers  moisture,  and  it  is  safer 
to  make  it  the  day  it  is  to  be  used.  Do  not  attempt 
to  make  it  on  a  damp  or  rainy  day,  and  have  no  boil- 
ing kettles  in  the  room  (see  general  directions  for 
boiling  sugar,  page  513). 

GLAC^  ORANGES  AND  GRAPES 

Divide  an  orange  into  sections ;  do  not  break  the 
inside  skin,  for  if  the  juice  escapes  in  ever  so  small  a 
quantity  the  section  must  be  discarded.  Let  them 
stand  several  hours  until  the  surface  has  become  very 
dry.  Remove  grapes  from  the  bunch,  leaving  a  short 
stem  attached  to  each  one.  Boil  some  sugar  to  340°, 
or  the  point  just  before  the  caramel  stage  (see  direc- 
tions for  boiling  sugar,  page  512).  Remove  the  pan 
from  the  fire  and  place  it  for  a  moment  in  water  to 
arrest  the  cooking.  Drop  the  orange  sections  into 
the  sugar,  one  at  a  time,  and  remove  them  with  a 


GLACi;  GKAPES  IN  NEST  OF  SPUN  SUGAR. 


SUGAR  AND  ITS  USES  B17 

candy  wire  or  with  two  forks,  and  place  them  on  an 
oiled  slab  to  dry.  With  a  pair  of  pincers  take  each 
grape  by  the  small  stem  and  dip  it  into  the  sugar, 
and  be  sure  it  is  entirely  coated.  Place  each  sepa- 
rately on  the  slab  to  dry.  If  the  day  is  damp,  the 
sugar  not  suflSciently  boiled,  or  the  fruit  at  all  moist, 
the  sugar  will  all  drain  off ;  therefore  the  work  must  cauaes  of 
be  done  only  under  the  right  conditions.  Candied  failure, 
cherries  may  be  treated  in  this  way :  first  wash  them 
to  remove  the  sugar ;  let  them  dry,  then  pierce  them 
with  an  artificial  stem  and  dip  them  carefully  so  as 
not  to  deface  the  stem. 

CANDIES 

When  making  candies  observe  carefully  the  rules 
for  boiling  sugar.  When  sugar  reaches  the  candy 
stage,  the  water  has  evaporated,  and  the  tendency  is 
to  return  to  the  original  state  of  crystals.  If  it  is 
jarred,  or  is  stirred,  or  if  the  thin  line  of  crystals 
formed  around  the  pan  by  the  sugar  rising  while  boil-  L^^^* 
ing  is  allowed  to  remain,  the  whole  mass  will  granu-  tion. 
late,  hence,  for  success,  it  is  necessary  to  avoid  these 
things.  To  keep  the  sides  of  the  pan  washed  free  of 
crystals  dip  a  brush  in  water  and  pass  it  around  the 
pan  close  to  the  edge  of  the  sugar  as  often  as  is  neces- 
sary ;  a  sponge  or  a  small  piece  of  cloth  may  be  used, 
but  with  these  there  is  danger  of  burning  the  fingers. 
A  very  little  acid  added  at  the  crack  stage  also  pre- 
vents graining ;  this  is  termed  "  Greasing."  If  too  Greaaing. 
much  acid  is  used  it  prevents  the  sugar  advancing  to 
the  caramel  stage,  and  also  may  cause  granulation.  A 
few  drops,  only,  of  lemon- juice,  of  vinegar,  or  a  little 
cream  of  tartar  are  the  acids  used. 

The  success  of  candy-making  depends  entirely  upon 
boiling  sugar  to  just  the  right  degree.  The  candy 
will  not  harden  if  boiled  too  little.    Another  stage, 


618 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


candies. 


Marble 
slab  and 
iron  bars. 


where  it  hardens  but  sticks  to  the  teeth,  means  the 
boUing  was  arrested  at  the  hard-ball  instead  of  the 
crack  stage.  Unless  a  thermometer  is  used,  a  little 
practice  seems  necessary  before  one  recognizes  the 
small  differences  upon  which  success  depends;  but 
the  experience  once  gained,  it  is  easy  to  make  a  pound 
or  more  of  candy  at  slight  expense.  In  the  country 
where  it  is  often  impossible  to  get  fresh  candies,  it  is 
desirable  to  be  able  to  make  them.  Where  fondant 
is  already  prepared  and  kept  in  preserve  jars,  the  cream 
bonbons  can  be  quickly  made.  Carameled  nuts  are 
perhaps  the  least  trouble  to  make  of  any  candies. 

A  marble  slab  is  almost  requisite  in  making  candy, 
though  greased  papers  and  tins  can  be  used.  Candy 
poured  upon  a  slab  cools  quickly,  has  an  even  surface, 
and  can  be  easily  removed.  Four  square  iron  bars 
are  useful  to  confine  the  sugar.  These  can  be  placed 
so  as  to  form  bays  of  the  size  suitable  to  the  amount 
of  sugar  used  and  the  thickness  required. 


NOUGAT  No.   1   (For  Bonbons) 

Blanch  one  cupful  of  almonds.  Chop  them  and  place  them 
in  the  oven  to  dry.  They  must  be  watched  that  they  do  not 
brown.  Put  into  a  saucepan  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar  and  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice.  Place  it  on  the 
fire  and  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  untU  it  is  melted  and  slightly 
colored.  Let  it  stand  a  few  minutes  so  it  will  be  thoroughly 
melted  and  not  grainy,  then  turn  in  the  hot  almonds,  mix  them 
together  quickly,  not  stirring  long  enough  to  grain  the  sugar, 
and  turn  it  onto  an  oUed  slab.  Spread  it  out  in  an  even  sheet, 
one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  using  a  half  lemon  to  press  it  with. 
While  it  is  still  warm,  mark  it  off  into  squares  or  diamonds. 
Break  it  into  pieces  when  cold.  These  sheets  of  nougat  can  be 
lifted  and  pressed  into  molds,  but  it  hardens  quickly  and  is  not 
as  easy  to  work  as  the  receipt  No.  2. 


SUGAR  AND  ITS  USES  519 

KOUGAT  No.  2  (For  Molding) 

Put  two  cupf  uls  of  granulated  sugar  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
half  cupful  of  water.  Let  it  boil  to  the  crack  (310°)  without 
stirring  (see  boiling  sugar,  page  511),  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice,  aud  then  turn  in  a  half  cupful  of  hot  chopped  blanched 
almonds  which  have  been  dried  in  the  oven.  Mix  them  to- 
gether, stirring  only  enough  to  mix  them  and  not  grain  the 
sugar.  Pour  it  on  an  oiled  marble  slab,  and  press  it  as  thin 
as  an  eighth  of  an  inch  or  less.  Cut  the  sheet  of  nougat  into 
pieces  of  the  right  size  and  press  them  into  oiled  molds.  Do 
this  while  the  nougat  is  only  just  cool  enough  to  handle,  so  it 
will  be  pliable.  Loosen  the  form  from  the  mold  while  it  is  still 
warm,  but  keep  it  in  the  mold  until  cold.  The  work  has  to  be 
done  quickly,  as  the  nougat  hardens  in  a  few  minutes.  Perhaps 
the  first  trial  to  make  nougat  forms  will  be  a  failure,  but  a  few 
trials  will  enable  one  to  accomplish  it. 

If  any  pieces  get  broken  off  the  molded  forms,  they  can  be 
stuck  on  again  with  liquid  sugar  or  with  royal  icing.  Horns  of 
plenty  are  favorite  forms  for  nougat.  The  molds  come  of  dif- 
ferent sizes.  These  pieces  filled  with  glace  fruits  make  very 
ornamental  pieces.  The  horns  are  molded  in  halves.  "When 
the  nougat  has  hardened,  the  two  pieces  are  tied  together,  rested 
on  a  muffin  ring,  and  royal  icing  pressed  through  a  pastry-tube 
into  any  ornamental  shape  along  the  edges.  This  quickly 
hardens  and  binds  the  horn  together.  A  support  for  the  form 
is  made  from  nougat  cut  into  strips  and  formed  into  a  box-shape, 
open  at  one  end. 

NOUGAT  No.  3  (Soft  White  Nongat) 

Put  into  a  saucepan  the  whites  of  three  eggs  whipped  to  a 
stiff  froth ;  beat  into  them  one  pound  of  heated  strained  honey, 
then  add  a  pound  of  sugar  cooked  to  the  ball,  236°.  Continue 
beating  until  it  attains  290°.  A  little  of  the  mixture  cooled  in 
water  will  then  crumble  between  the  fingers.  At  this  stage  add 
a  pound  of  sugar  cooked  to  the  crack,  310°,  a  pound  of  whole 


520  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

blanched  almonds,  and  a  few  pistachio  nuts.  Pour  the  mixture 
into  a  dish  lined  with  wafers,  making  the  nougat  one  inch  thick. 
Cover  the  top  with  wafers,  and  when  cold  cut  it  into  pieces 
three  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide.  To  make  wafers,  see  re- 
ceipt for  gauffres  (page  479) ;  but  instead  of  baking  them  in  the 
gauffre-iron,  spread  the  mixture  as  thinly  as  possible  on  an  oiled 
paper  and  dry  in  a  slow  oven  without  coloring. 

NOUGAT  No.  4  (Bonbons) 

Blanch,  chop,  and  dry  without  coloring  one  cupful  of  almonds. 
Melt  one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  stirring  aU  the  time.  When  it  is  thoroughly  melted 
and  a  delicate  color,  turn  in  the  hot  almonds.  Mix  them  to- 
gether and  turn  into  an  oiled  tin.  Press  down  the  nougat 
evenly,  leaving  it  an  inch  thick.  Cut  it  in  inch  squares  before 
it  becomes  hard.  This  nougat  has  only  enough  sugar  to  bind 
the  nuts  together. 

BUBKT  ALMO]!n)S 

Put  a  cupful  of  brown  sugar  into  a  saucepan  with  a  very  little 
water.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Let  it  boil  a  minute, 
then  throw  in  a  half  cupful  of  almonds  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  the  sugar  granulates  and  is  a  little  browned.  When  the 
nuts  are  well  coated,  and  before  they  get  into  one  mass,  turn 
them  out  and  separate  any  that  have  stuck  together. 

SUGARED  ALMONDS 

Put  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little 
water.  Stir  until  it  is  dissolved,  then  let  it  cook  to  the  ball 
stage  without  touching  except  to  test.  Turn  in  a  half  cupful 
of  blanched  almonds  and  stir  off  the  fire  until  the  nuts  are  weU 
covered  with  the  granulated  sugar,  but  turn  them  out  before 
they  become  one  mass.  Boil  another  cupful  of  sugar  to  the  ball, 
turn  in  the  coated  almonds  and  stir  again  in  the  same  way, 
giving  them  a  second  coating  of  sugar,  but  not  leaving  them  in 
the  pan  until  they  are  all  stuck  together.  The  nuts  may  be 
given  a  third  coating  in  the  same  way,  if  a  larger  size  is  wanted. 


HOKN  OF   1'I,1;M\    IN    NOUGAT  FILLEO   WITH   CLACE  OKANGES   AND  GRAPES 
COVERED  WITH  SPUN  SUGAR. 


SUGAR  AND  ITS  USES  521 

For  pink  almonds,  add  a  little  carmine  to  the  sugar  just  be- 
fore putting  in  the  almonds  for  the  last  coating.  Any  flavoring 
desired  may  also  be  added  at  this  time. 

MABRONS  GLACE  (Candied  Ghestnuts) 
Remove  the  shells  from  a  dozen  or  more  French  chestnuts. 
Cover  them  with  boiling  water  and  let  them  stand  a  few  min- 
utes until  the  skins  can  be  removed.  Put  them  again  in  hot 
water  and  simmer  slowly  until  the  nuts  are  tender,  but  not  soft. 
Put  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  cupful  of  water  in  a  saucepan 
and  stir  until  dissolved.  Add  the  boiled  chestnuts  and  let  them 
cook  in  the  syrup  until  they  look  clear,  then  turn  them  onto  a 
sieve,  using  care  not  to  break  the  nuts,  and  let  them  cool.  Re- 
turn the  strained  syrup  to  the  saucepan  and  cook  it  to  the  hard- 
ball stage.  Remove  it  from  the  fire,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract.  Drop  the  chest- 
nuts into  it,  one  at  a  time,  turn  until  thinly  coated,  and  remove 
with  a  candy  wire  to  an  oiled  paper  qj*  slab ;  or,  when  the  sugar 
has  reached  the  ball  stage,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon- juice,  let 
it  cool  a  few  minutes,  and  then  stir  until  it  begins  to  whiten ; 
then  immediately  place  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  flavor  with  va- 
nilla and  stir  until  it  again  becomes  liquid,  and  dip  the  nuts 
as  directed  above. 

MABSHMALLOWS 

Soak  four  ounces  of  gum  arable  in  a  cupful  of  water  until  it 
is  dissolved.  Strain  it  to  take  out  any  black  specks  that  may 
be  in  the  gum.  Put  the  dissolved  gum  arable  into  a  saucepan 
with  a  half  pound  of  powdered  sugar.  Place  the  saucepan  in  a 
second  pan  containing  boiling  water.  Stir  until  the  mixture 
becomes  thick  and  white.  When  it  begins  to  thicken,  test  it  by 
dropping  a  little  into  cold  water.  When  it  will  form  a  firm  ball 
remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  stir  into  it  the  whites  of  three  eggs 
whipped  to  a  stiff  froth.  This  will  give  it  a  spongy  texture. 
Lastly,  flavor  it  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  orange-flower  water. 
Turn  the  paste  into  a  pan  covered  thick  with  corn-starch.  The 
layer  of  paste  should  be  one  inch  thick.     Too  large  a  pan  must 


622  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

not  be  used,  or  it  will  spread  and  make  a  thin  layer.  After  the 
paste  has  stood  twelve  hours,  turn  it  onto  a  slab  and  cut  it  into 
inch  squares,  dust  them  well  with  corn-starch  or  with  confec- 
tioner's sugar,  and  pack  in  boxes.  As  the  paste  is  more  or  less 
cooked,  it  will  be  more  or  less  stiff.  Marshmallows  become 
harder  the  longer  they  are  kept,  but  are  best  when  as  soft  as 
they  can  be  handled. 

CARAMELS 

CHOCOLATE 

Put  into  a  saucepan  a  half  cupful  each  of  molasses,  of  white 
sugar  and  of  brown  sugar,  a  cupful  of  grated  chocolate,  and  a 
cupful  of  cream  or  milk.  Stir  the  mixture  constantly  over  the 
fire  until  it  reaches  the  hard-ball  stage,  then  add  a  teaspoon ful 
of  vanilla  and  turn  it  onto  an  oiled  slab  between  iron  bars,  or 
into  a  greased  tin,  having  the  paste  an  inch  thick.  Mark  it  in 
inch  squares  and  cut  before  it  is  quite  cold.  Wrap  each  piece 
in  paraflBn  paper. 

VAITILLA,  COFFEE,  MAPLE 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  three  quarters 
of  a  cupful  of  cream.  Stir  constantly  over  a  hot  fire  until 
it  reaches  the  hard-baU  stage;  remove  from  the  fire,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla,  and  turn  it  onto  an  oiled  slab  between  iron 
bars,  or  into  greased  tins,  the  same  as  directed  for  chocolate 
caramels.  For  coffee  caramels  use  a  half  cupful  of  cream  and 
a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  strong  coffee.  For  maple  caramels  use 
a  cupful  of  maple  syrup  in  place  of  sugar,  and  omit  the  vanilla, 

BONBONS  OF  FONDANT 

HABLEaUIN  BALLS 

Take  several  smaU  portions  of  fondant  and  color  each  one  a 
different  shade  Do  this  by  dipping  a  wooden  toothpick  into  the 
coloring  matter  and  then  touching  it  to  the  paste.  The  colors 
are  strong,  and  care  must  be  used  not  to  get  too  much  on  the 


SUGAR  AND  ITS  USES  523 

fondant,  for  the  candies  should  be  delicate  in  color.  For  orange 
balls,  color  and  flavor  with  orange- juice;  for  pistachio,  color 
green  and  flavor  with  orange-flower  water  and  then  with  bitter 
almond  (see  page  391) ;  for  pink,  color  with  carmine  and  flavor 
with  maraschino  or  with  rose-water;  for  chocolate,  mix  in  cocoa 
powder  and  flavor  with  vanilla ;  for  white,  flavor  with  noyau, 
peach,  or  anything  preferred.  When  liquid  flavors  are  used,  if 
the  fondant  becomes  too  soft,  mix  in  a  little  confectioner's  sugar; 
use  as  little  as  possible,  as  too  much  gives  a  raw  taste.  Work  in 
the  flavorings  and  colors  by  hand,  and  wash  the  hands  between 
each  different  color.  After  the  fondant  is  prepared,  roll  it  into 
balls  the  size  of  filberts,  then  roll  them  in  almonds  chopped  fine. 
The  nuts  improve  them,  but  may  be  omitted  if  desired.  Let  the 
balls  stand  for  two  or  more  hours  to  harden  before  putting  them 
together.  If  the  balls  are  wanted  of  one  color  on  the  outside, 
omit  the  nuts  and  dip  them  in  liquid  fondant  colored  as  desired. 

NEAPOLITAN  SQUARES 

Color  and  flavor  fondant  in  three  colors  as  directed  above; 
roll  it  into  layers  one  quarter  inch  thick,  and  place  the  layers 
one  on  the  other ;  press  them  together  lightly  and  cut  into  inch 
squares. 

NUT  CREAMS 

Mix  chopped  nuts  of  any  kind  into  flavored  fondant,  then  roll 
into  a  layer  three  quarters  of  an  ihch  thick,  and  cut  into  squares. 

SUGAR-PLUMS 

Take  small  pieces  of  fondant,  flavored  and  colored  to  taste; 
form  it  into  olive-shaped  baUs.  Hold  one  in  the  palm  of  the 
hand,  cut  it  half  through  and  press  into  it  an  almond ;  form  the 
fondant  around  it,  leaving  a  narrow  strip  of  the  nut  uncovered, 
giving  the  appearance  of  a  shell  cracked  open,  showing  the  kernel. 
If  chocolate  color  is  used  the  almond  should  be  blanched,  but 
with  light  colors  the  skin  is  left  on  to  give  contrast.  When 
green  color  is  used  it  represents  a  green  almond. 


624  THE  CENTUBY  COOK  BOOK 

CHOCOLATE  CREAMS 

Roll  fondant  flavored  with  vanilla  into  small  balls;  let  them 
stand  a  few  hours  to  harden.  Melt  an  ounce  of  unsweetened 
chocolate,  add  to  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  nulk,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sugar,  and  a  quarter  teaspoonful  of  butter.  Stir  till 
smooth ;  drop  the  balls  into  it  and  remove  with  a  fork  or  candy 
wire.  If  the  chocolate  becomes  too  stiff,  add  a  few  drops  of 
sj'rup  and  heat  it  again. 

CREAMED  inrrs  and  creamed  eruits 

Put  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fondant  into  a  cup.  Place 
the  cup  in  a  basin  of  hot  water  and  stir  constantly  until  the 
fondant  becomes  soft  like  cream  or  molasses.  If  it  is  not  stirred 
it  will  go  back  to  clear  syrup;  flavor  and  color  the  liquid  fondant 
as  desired.  Drop  the  nuts  in  one  at  a  time,  turn  them  until  well 
covered  with  fondant,  lift  them  out  with  a  candy-spoon,  and  place 
them  on  an  oiled  paper,  or  on  an  oiled  slab.  English  walnuts, 
cherries,  strawberries,  and  grapes  are  very  good  creamed  in  this 
way.  The  hulls  are  left  on  strawberries,  the  stems  on  cherries 
and  grapes.  Brandied  cherries  may  also  be  creamed  in  the 
same  way.  If  the  fondant  becomes  too  stiff,  melt  it  again. 
After  it  has  been  melted  twice  it  no  longer  works  well.  A  few 
drops  of  syrup  at  34°  can  then  be  added.  It  is  well  to  have 
some  syrup  prepared  to  keep  in  stock  for  this  purpose.  A 
drop  or  two  of  liquid  is  sufficient  to  soften  fondant,  and  unless 
care  is  used  it  will  be  diluted  too  much,  in  which  case  confec- 
tioner's sugar  can  be  mixed  in ;  but  this  gives  a  raw  taste  to  the 
fondant,  and  should  be  avoided  if  possible. 

GOCOAinrr  creams 

Grate  some  cocoanut  flne.  Mix  it  with  as  much  liquid  fon- 
dant as  will  bind  it  well,  and  flavor  with  a  little  vanilla.  Spread 
it  in  a  layer  one  inch  thick  and  cut  into  one  inch  squares,  or 
roll  it  into  balls,  and  dip  the  balls  into  melted  chocolate,  the 


SUGAR  AND  ITS  USES  ^  626 

same  as  directed  for  chocolate  creams,  or  into  liquid  fondant, 
flavored  and  colored  as  desired. 

COGOANUT  CAKES 

Moisten  a  cupful  of  sugar  with  the  milk  of  a  cocoanut ;  boil 
it  to  the  soft-ball ;  then  stir  in  as  much  grated  cocoanut  as  the 
boiled  sugar  will  moisten;  stir  it  only  enough  to  mix  and  not 
granulate.  Drop  a  spoonful  at  a  time  on  an  oiled  slab,  making 
flat  round  cakes  about  two  inches  in  diameter.  If  the  sugar 
granulates  before  the  cakes  are  all  spread,  add  a  little  water 
and  cook  it  again  to  the  soft-ball. 

PEPPERMINT  CREAMS 

Melt  fondant  as  directed  for  creamed  nuts  ;  flavor  it  with  es- 
sence of  peppermint.  With  a  spoon  drop  the  liquid  fondant  in 
even  amounts  upon  an  oiled  slab,  making  lozenges ;  or,  better, 
turn  it  into  starch  molds  (see  starch  molds,  below). 

CHOCOLATE  PEPPERMIiniS 

Dip  the  peppermint  lozenges  into  liquid  chocolate,  as  directed 
for  chocolate  creams. 


TO  MAKE  STARCH  MOLDS  AND  CAST  CANDIES 

Fill  a  box-cover  with  corn-starch,  having  it  very  light  and 
dry ;  shake  it  down  even.  Press  into  it  a  die  of  any  shape  de- 
sired, making  the  indentations  carefully.  Plaster  casts  are 
made  for  this  purpose,  but  buttons  make  very  good  dies.  A 
smooth  flat  button  one  half  inch  in  diameter  makes  a  good 
shape  for  peppermints.  Molds  are  used  for  cream  drops,  choco- 
lates, or  any  of  the  flavored  clear  candies. 

The  liquid  candy  is  dropped  carefully  into  the  molds  and  re- 
moved when  cold  and  the  starch  dusted  off.  The  starch  can 
then  be  stirred  light  and  again  pressed  into  molds. 


526  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

CANDIES  MADE  FEOM  SUGAR  BOILED  TO  THE 
CRACK  OR  THE  CARAMEL 

PEPPERMINT  DROPS 

Boil  a  cupful  of  sugar  to  the  hard-ball.  Remove  it  from  the 
fire ;  add  a  haK  teaspoonf ul  of  essence  of  peppermint  and  stir 
it  just  enough  to  mix  in  the  flavoring  and  cloud  the  sugar. 
Drop  it  into  starch  molds  or  upon  an  oiled  slab,  letting  four 
drops  of  the  candy  f  aU  in  exactly  the  same  spot ;  it  wiU  then 
spread  round  and  even. 

These  drops  should  be  translucent  or  a  little  white.  Unless 
care  is  used  the  candy  will  grain  before  the  drops  are  molded ; 
therefore  it  is  better  to  pour  it  from  the  spout  of  the  pan  than 
to  dip  it  out  with  a  spoon. 

CARAMELED  NUTS 

Boil  a  cupful  of  sugar  to  the  crack  or  to  the  caramel,  as  pre- 
ferred ;  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice.  Blanch  a  few  almonds 
and  dry  without  coloring  them.  Drop  one  at  a  time  into  the 
sugar;  turn  it  until  weU  covered  without  stirring  the  sugar; 
lift  it  out  with  the  candy-spoon,  and  place  it  on  an  oUed  slab. 
Do  not  drain  the  nuts  when  lifting  them  out,  and  enough 
sugar  will  remain  to  form  a  clear  ring  of  candy  around  each  one. 
English  walnuts,  filberts,  or  any  other  nuts  may  be  used  in  the 
same  way.  They  should  be  warmed  so  as  not  to  chill  the  candy. 
The  work  should  be  done  quickly.  If  the  sugar  becomes  hard 
before  the  nuts  are  all  done,  return  it  to  the  fire  to  heat.  Add 
a  teaspoonful  of  water  if  necessary,  and  boil  it  to  the  right  de- 
gree again.  If  the  sugar  is  boiled  to  the  crack,  the  candy  will 
be  without  color ;  if  boiled  to  the  caramel,  it  will  be  yellow. 

ALMOND  HARDBAKE 

Blanch  some  almonds  and  split  them  in  two.  Dry  them  in  a 
moderate  heat  without  coloring  them.  Lay  them  with  the  flat 
side  down  on  an  oUed  layer-cake  tin,  entirely  covering  it.    Pour 


SUGAE  AND  ITS  USES  527 

over  the  nuts  enough  sugar  boiled  to  the  crack  to  entirely  cover 
them.  The  almonds  may  be  laid  in  regular  order  like  wreaths, 
or  in  groups  like  rosettes,  if  desired.  Mark  off  squares  or  cir- 
cles on  the  candy  while  it  is  warm,  and  it  can  then  be  broken 
in  regular  pieces  when  cold. 

PEANUT  CANDY 

Fill  a  small  square  tin  a  half  inch  deep  with  shelled  peanuts, 
leaving  the  skins  on.  Boil  some  sugar  to  the  crack  or  .to  the 
caramel,  and  pour  it  over  the  nuts,  just  covering  them.  Cut  it 
into  two-inch  squares  before  it  becomes  quite  cold. 

TAFFT 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  a 
half  cupful  of  water ;  stir  until  it  dissolves ;  then  wash  the  sides 
of  the  pan,  and  let  it  boil  without  touching  until  it  reaches  the 
soft-ball  stage  j  add  a  tablespoonf ul  of  butter  and  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon- juice,  and  let  it  boil  to  the  crack;  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla,  and  turn  it  onto  an  oUed  slab  or  a  tin  to 
cool.    Mark  it  off  into  squares  before  it  becomes  cold. 

MOLASSES  CANDT 

Put  into  a  large  saucepan  a  cupful  of  brown  sugar,  two  cup- 
fuls of  New  Orleans  molasses,  and  a  tablespoonful  each  of  butter 
and  vinegar.  Mix  them  well  and  boU.  until  it  will  harden  when 
dropped  in  water.  Then  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda, 
which  will  whiten  it,  and  turn  it  into  a  greased  tin  to  cool. 
When  it  can  be  handled  pull  it  until  white  and  firm  j  draw  it 
into  sticks  and  cut  it  into  inch  lengths, 

CANDIED  ORANGE  OB  LEMON  PEEL 

Keep  the  peel  of  the  fruit,  as  it  is  used,  in  a  weak  brine  until 
enough  has  collected  to  preserve.  Wash  it  thoroughly  in  sev- 
eral waters.    Let  it  boil  in  plenty  of  water  until  tender,  chang- 


528  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

ing  the  water  several  times.  If  the  peels  are  fresh  they  need 
be  boiled  in  one  water  only.  "When  they  can  be  pierced  with 
a  straw,  drain  off  the  hot  water.  Let  them  cool,  and  scrape 
out  the  white  pulp  with  a  spoon.  Make  enough  syrup  to  cover 
the  yellow  peels,  using  the  proportion  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a 
pint  of  water.  When  the  syrup  is  boiling,  drop  in  the  peels  and 
let  them  cook  slowly  until  they  are  clear.  Then  boil  rapidly 
until  the  syrup  is  reduced  almost  to  dryness,  using  care  that  it 
does  not  burn.  Spread  the  peels  on  a  flat  dish  and  place  them  in 
a  warm  place  to  dry  for  twelve  hours  or  more.  When  perfectly 
dry  pack  them  into  preserve  jars.  They  are  cut  into  shreds  and 
used  in  cakes,  puddings,  and  wherever  raisins  and  citron  are 
used.  They  are  also  used  in  pudding  sauces.  It  is  very  little 
trouble  to  make  the  candied  peels,  and  they  are  a  delicious  addi- 
tion to  various  sweet  dishes.  The  boiled  peel  can  be  cut  into 
shreds  before  being  cooked  in  the  syrup  if  preferred. 


'  -fa  ,   ,jf  .-w-Af-J 


DIFFEREM    UAl?   ui    I'liEl'AKING  OliAXGBS. 


Chapter  XXIV 

FRUITS 

In  point  of  general  usefulness,  apples  hold  the  first 
place  among  fruits.  Oranges  also  serve  a  great  num- 
ber of  purposes,  and,  like  apples,  can  be  depended  on 
nearly  the  whole  year.  Peaches  and  apricots,  although 
of  short  season,  can  be  so  successfully  preserved  that 
they,  as  well  as  berries,  render  important  service  in 
cooking.  All  of  these  fruits  are  excellent  prepared  as 
compotes,  with  pastry,  with  corn-starch,  or  with  gela- 
tine, making  a  variety  of  dishes  without  number.  In 
the  index  will  be  found  a  list  of  dishes  under  each  of 
these  heads.  In  the  fruit  season  one  is  sometimes  at 
a  loss  to  know  how  to  utilize  the  abundance  there  may 
be  at  command.  Usually  the  fresh  fruit  is  most  ac- 
ceptable at  that  time,  but  the  little  trouble  and  slight 
expense  of  canning  should  make  one  provident  enough 
to  secure  a  year's  store  to  supply  the  various  purposes 
which  cooked  fruit  serve. 

Fresh  fruits  are  always  wholesome,  beautiful,  and 

inviting,  and  should  always  have  a  place  on  every 

table.    The  practice  of  leaving  fruit  on  the  sideboard 

in  a  warm  room  from  one  meal  to  another  is  a  mistake,    _ 

.   '     Tempera- 

f or  fruit  should  be  fresh,  firm,  and  cold  to  be  in  its       tore, 
best  condition.     An  exception  to  this  rule  may  be 
made  for  fruits  fresh  from  the  garden  with  the  heat 
of  the  sun  upon  them.    The  small  fruits  are  much 
more  delicious  when  tasting  of  the  sunshine,  but  fruits 

34  629 


630 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


obtained  from  markets  are  better  for  being  chilled. 
Much  taste  may  be  shown  in  arranging  fruits  for 
decorating  the  table.  They  maybe  combined  in  large 
dishes,  giving  effect  of  abundance,  or  a  quantity  of 
one  kind  massed  together  for  color-effects,  or  a  few 
choice  specimens  of  a  kind  placed  on  separate  compo- 
tiers.  All  the  ways  are  good  and,  if  the  fruit  is  fresh 
and  fair,  will  be  most  attractive.  Green  leaves  should 
Arranging,  be  combined  with  fruits  j  grape-leaves  under  small 
groups  of  peaches,  plums,  gi*apes,  etc.,  are  much  used  by 
the  French,  who  excel  in  the  beautiful  arrangements  of 
fruit.  White  grapes,  shading  from  those  with  pink 
tints  to  white  below,  give  pleasing  effects  on  white 
dinner-tables. 

Apples  should  be  washed  and  rubbed  until  well 
polished.  Fine  apples  so  treated  make  an  attractive 
centerpiece  dish. 

A  few  ways  of  preparing  oranges  are  given  in  illus- 
trations. 

The  grape-fruit  is  served  at  breakfast,  or  as  a  first 
course  at  luncheon.  The  pulp  must  be  separated  from 
the  thin  bitter  skin  which  separates  the  sections,  with 
a  silver  knife.  A  little  sugar  is  added,  and  sometimes 
a  teaspoonful  of  sherry,  to  each  portion.  The  pulp 
and  juice  is  eaten  with  a  spoon  from  the  peel,  one  half 
the  shaddock  being  served  to  each  person,  or  it  may 
be  served  in  small  glasses.  The  peels  prepared  as 
fancy  baskets  can  be  kept  fresh  for  several  days  in 
water. 

Peaches  should  have  the  down  taken  off  lightly 
with  a  soft  brush  before  being  served.  A  fruit  doily 
should  be  given  at  the  time  they  are  passed,  as  peaches 
stain  the  table  linen. 

Large  fine  strawberries  are  served  with  the  hulls  on 
and  piled  in  a  pyramid.  Sugar  is  passed  with  them, 
or  they  may  be  served  on  individual  plates  around  a 
small  mound  of  sugar,  made  by  pressing  the  sugar  in 


Apples. 


ninfltra- 
tions. 

Oranges, 
grape-fruit, 
or  shad- 
docks. 


Peaches. 


Straw- 
berries. 


FRUITS  531 

a  wineglass  and  then  unmolding  it  in  the  center  of 
the  plate. 

No  berries  should  be  washed.  If  strawberries  are 
sandy,  cold  water  must  be  poured  over  them  and 
drained  off  at  once,  but  the  berries  will  no  longer  be 
at  their  best.  Sugar  should  always  be  passed,  and  not  Berries. 
put  over  the  berries  before  serving  them,  as  it  extracts 
their  juice  and  destroys  their  firmness.  They  should 
also  be  served  in  small  dishes,  as  they  crush  with  their 
own  weight.  Where  a  large  quantity  is  being  served, 
several  dishes  should  be  used. 

A  mixture  of  red  and  of  white  currants  makes  an    Currants, 
attractive  breakfast  fruit.   They  may  be  served  on  the 
stems  if  fine  and  large  clusters. 

Bananas  sliced  and  covered  with  whipped  cream 
make  a  good  light  dessert  for  luncheon.  They  may  be  Bananas 
moistened  with  orange-juice  or  with  sherry  before  the  sautM,  and 
cream  is  added,  if  desired.  Bananas  may  be  cut  in  two  friod. 
lengthwise,  sauted  in  a  little  butter,  and  served  as  a 
vegetable  or  as  an  entree ;  or  they  may  be  cut  in  two, 
the  ends  cut  square,  so  they  will  resemble  croquettes, 
then  rolled  in  flour,  and  fried  in  hot  fat  to  a  light 
color,  and  served  as  a  dessert  with  currant  jelly  sauce. 
To  make  the  sauce,  dilute  the  jelly  with  boiling  water; 
add  a  few  chopped  blanched  almonds  and  shredded 
candied  orange-peel.  The  unripe  and  not  fully  devel- 
oped banana  is  devoid  of  sweetness  and  when  roasted 
resembles  a  baked  potato.  In  hot  climates  the 
natives  live  mostly  on  bananas,  and  a  nation  is  said  to 
be  cursed  where  they  grow,  because  the  ease  with 
which  they  get  their  living  makes  them  lazy. 

Soak  dried  figs  in  cold  water  for  several  hours,  then     stewed 
stew  them  slowly  until  plump.    Drain  and  pile  them       ^S^- 
on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  whipped   cream    slightly 
sweetened  and  flavored  with  vanilla,  sherry,  maras- 
chino, or  with  essence  of  almond.    Arrange  the  cream 
in  a  circle  around  the  figs. 


532 


THE  CENTUKY  COOK  BOOK 


Salpioon 
of  fruits. 


Mslons. 


Frozen 
frnits. 


Quinces 
baked. 


VntB. 


Mix  together  lightly  an  equal  proportion  of  orange- 
pulp,  bananas  cut  into  half-inch  dice,  and  grapes  cut 
in  two  and  the  seeds  removed.  Add  sugar  if  neces- 
sary, and  a  little  sherry  or  liqueur  if  desired ;  serve  in 
glasses  or  in  half-orange  skins.  Grape-fruit  may  be 
used  in  the  same  way ;  it  may  also  be  combined  with 
the  orange  salpicon.  There  should  be  a  good  quantity 
of  juice  with  the  mixture. 

Melons  are  in  perfection  in  hot  dry  weather.  They 
absorb  water  readily  and  should  not  be  gathered  after 
a  heavy  rain  storm.  Small  melons  are  cut  in  two,  the 
seeds  removed,  a  piece  of  ice  placed  in  each  piece,  and 
a  half  melon  served  to  each  person.  Large  melons  are 
cut  in  broad  sections  and  a  generous  piece  served  as  a 
portion.  Melons  may  be  served  at  the  beginning  or 
the  end  of  any  meal.  They  are  usually  most  accept- 
able as  a  first  course.    They  should  be  thoroughly  cold. 

Any  of  the  fruits  can  be  partly  frozen  and  served 
as  an  ice.  Cut  them  into  pieces,  sweeten  with  sugar 
syrup,  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  an  hour,  but  do  not 
leave  them  long  enough  to  become  stiff.  Berries  are 
of  course  left  whole. 

Pare  and  core  quinces  the  same  as  apples.  Put 
them  in  a  shallow  earthen  dish,  with  enough  water  to 
fill  the  dish  a  quarter  inch  deep.  Place  them  in  a 
moderate  oven  and  bake  until  tender,  basting  them 
often.  Serve  them  hot  with  butter  and  sugar  as  a 
luncheon  dish. 

Nuts  with  hard  shells  are  cracked,  the  meats  re- 
moved and  placed  in  bonbon  dishes,  or  are  piled  on 
lace  papers  in  small  compotiers.  Almonds  with  paper 
shells  are  served  whole.  Almonds  are  also  served 
blanched.  Peanuts  with  the  shells  and  skins  re- 
moved, and  served  in  bonbon  dishes,  are  much  liked 
and  seldom  recognized  as  the  much-despised  nut. 
Peanuts  may  be  salted  the  same  as  almonds. 


GKAl'E  FllUlT  SEHVED  IN  A  BASKET  MADE  OE  THE  PEEL  AND  A  BKANCU  OF 
HOLLY  TIED  TO  THE  HANDLE.     (SEE  PAGE  530.) 


FRUITS 


533 


Blanch  the  almonds  by  putting  them  in  boiling 
water  for  a  few  minutes ;  the  skins  can  then  be  easily- 
rubbed  off.  Put  the  blanched  nuts  into  a  pan  with 
a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  place  them  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Stir  them  frequently  so  they  will  brown  on  all 
sides.  Sprinkle  them  freely  with  salt  as  soon  as  they 
are  taken  from  the  oven. 

Blanch  the  almonds,  and  when  they  are  thoroughly 
dry  pour  a  tablespoonf ul  of  oil  on  every  cupful  of  nuts. 
Let  them  stand  in  the  oil  for  an  hour,  then  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  fine  salt  to  each  cupful.  Stir  them  and 
place  in  a  shallow  pan  in  the  oven  tintil  they  are  col- 
ored a  light  brown.  Stir  them  occasionally  while  in 
the  oven,  so  they  will  be  evenly  colored.  Turn  them 
onto  a  paper  to  dry,  and  shake  off  the  loose  salt  be- 
fore serving. 

Brown  them  in  the  oven  with  a  little  butter  the 
same  as  almonds.  Filberts  are  blanched,  but  walnuts 
do  not  have  the  skin  removed. 

A  mixture  of  salted  almonds,  walnuts,  and  filberts 
makes  a  good  combination. 

Salted  nuts  are  served  at  luncheon  or  dinner,  and 
are  eaten  at  any  and  all  times  during  those  meals. 


Salted 
almonds. 


Salted 

almonda 

No.  2. 


Salted 

English 

wi&ats 

and  filberts. 


SALPICON  OF  FRUIT  PUNCH 

This  is  served  in  glasses,  in  place  of  and  in  the  same  way  as 
frozen  punch  after  the  roast.  Cut  a  pineapple  into  smaU  dice ; 
remove  the  bitter  skin  carefully  from  the  segments  of  three 
shaddocks  and  cut  them  into  pieces.  Cut  in  two  and  remove 
the  seeds  from  a  pound  of  white  grapes;  mix  the  fruit  to- 
gether. Put  a  cupful  of  rum  and  a  cupful  of  sugar  into  a 
saucepan  on  the  fire  and  let  them  come  to  the  boiling  point, 
then  pour  them  over  the  fruit  and  let  stand  until  cold.  The 
rum  will  not  penetrate  the  fruit  so  well  if  put  on  cold.  Put 
the  mixture  into  a  freezing-can  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for 


534  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

several  hours,  or  until  ready  to  serve.    Stir  the  mixture  to- 
gether carefully  every  little  while. 

FUirCH  OF  WHITE  CALIFOBNIA  GAinOlD  GHEBRIES 

Drain  off  the  liquor ;  make  a  rum  syrup  as  above ;  soak  and 
freeze  in  the  same  way. 

JELLIED  FBUIT 

Cut  the  pulp  of  two  oranges  into  small  pieces ;  cut  two  bananas 
into  dice ;  cut  half  a  dozen  candied  cherries  into  quarters ;  chop 
a  dozen  blanched  almonds.  Mix  aU  lightly  together  and  turn 
them  into  a  bowl  or  a  chiha  mold.  Soak  a  half  ounce  of  gela- 
tine in  a  half  cupful  of  cold  water  for  an  hour ;  dissolve  it  in  a 
cupful  of  boiling  water ;  add  a  half  cupful  of  sugar  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  dissolved ;  then  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
the  juice  which  has  drained  from  the  fruit,  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  sherry.  Turn  it  into  the  mold  slowly,  so  it  soaks  into  the 
fruit,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  Serve  with  cream  if  convenient. 
Any  mixture  of  fresh  fruits  may  be  used  in  the  same  way ; 
raisins  may  be  used  instead  of  cherries,  or  both  may  be  omitted- 
This  is  a  good  way  to  utilize  fruits  that  are  going  to  waste. 

FRUIT  JUICES 

The  juice  of  oranges,  strawberries,  currants,  or  any  fruit 
makes  a  delicious  first  course  for  luncheon  in  summer  time  or 
the  fruit  season,  when  prepared  as  directed  below.  It  is  served 
cold  in  small  glasses  and  eaten  with  a  spoon. 

Take  a  quart  of  fruit-juice ;  this  wiU  require  about  a  dozen 
oranges,  or  two  quarts  of  strawberries  or  other  juicy  fruit; 
strain  it  through  filter  paper  to  make  it  clear  (see  page  415); 
put  it  in  an  earthenware  or  porcelain-lined  saucepan  on  the  fire, 
and  as  soon  as  it  steams,  stir  in  three  teaspoonfuls  of  arrowroot 
moistened  in  a  little  cold  water.  Cook  it  until  clear;  then  add 
a  half  cupful  of  sugar  (or  more  if  an  acid  fruit),  and  as  soon 
as  the  sugar  is  dissolved  turn  it  into  a  bowl  to  cool.  At  the 
moment  of  serving  put  a  piece  of  ice  in  each  glass. 


GRAPE  FKUIT  SERVED  IN  A  BASKET  MADE  OF  THE  PEEL  — GERANIUM 
LEAVES  TIED  TO  THE  HANDLE. 


Chaptee  XXY 


COMPOTES,  PRESERVING  AND 
CANNING,  PICKLES 

COMPOTES 

Compotes  are  fresh  fruits  stewed.  They  are  good 
served  with  cake  as  a  plain  dessert.  In  combination 
with  rice  or  other  molded  cereals  they  are  a  very 
wholesome  sweet  for  children. 

Make  a  syrup  of  28°  (see  page  513).  When  it  is 
boiling  drop  the  fruit  in,  a  few  pieces  at  a  time,  so  it 
will  not  get  broken  or  crushed.  Let  it  cook  until 
tender,  but  still  firm  enough  to  hold  its  form.  Re- 
move it  carefully  with  a  skimmer.  Arrange  the  pieces 
in  regular  order,  overlapping,  or  piled  like  uncooked 
fruit  in  a  glass  or  silver  dish.  After  the  fruit  is 
cooked,  let  the  syrup  boil  down  until  thick,  or  about 
32°,  and  strain  it  over  the  fruit.  Let  it  cool  before 
serving. 


For  plain 
desserts. 


Serving. 


APPLE  COMPOTE 

Pare  and  core  the  apples;  leave  them  whole,  or  cut  them  into 
halves,  quarters,  or  thick  round  slices.  Boil  them  until  tender, 
and  finish  as  directed  above.  Have  a  few  slices  of  lemon  in 
the  syrup  and  serve  them  with  the  fruit.  Pieces  of  cinnamon 
and  cloves  boiled  with  the  fruit  give  a  good  flavor. 

For  jellied  apples  boil  down  the  syrup  to  the  jelly  point. 
When  partly  cooled  pour  it  slowly  with  a  spoon  over  the 

535 


536  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

apples,  so  enough  will  adhere  to  give  them  a  glaze.  The 
center  of  the  apples  may  be  filled  with  a  bright-colored  jelly 
or  jam. 

COMPOTE  OF  PEABS 

Use  pears  that  are  not  quite  ripe.  Cut  them  in  two  length- 
wise, splitting  the  stem.  Remove  the  core  carefully  with  a 
scoop.    Boil  and  serve  them  as  directed  above. 

COMPOTE  OF  PEACHES  OB  APRICOTS 

Peel  the  fruit  and  cut  it  in  halves.  Prepare  it  as  directed 
above.    Mix  with  the  syrup  some  meats  taken  from  the  pits. 

COMPOTE  OF  ORANQES 

Peel  the  oranges  down  to  the  pulp,  using  a  sharp  knife.  Cut 
them  in  two  crosswise.  Remove  with  a  pointed  knife  the  core 
and  seeds  from  the  center.  Boil  them,  one  or  two  at  a  time, 
until  tender,  in  a  syrup  with  a  little  lemon-juice  added,  and  be 
careful  to  keep  them  in  good  shape.  Boil  the  syrup  down  until 
it  threads,  and  pour  it  over  the  oranges  piled  in  a  glass  dish.  A 
candied  cherry  in  the  center  of  each  one  gives  a  pretty  garnish. 
Orange  compote  is  good  served  plain,  or  with  whipped  cream, 
with  ice-creams,  Bavarians,  or  corn-starch  puddings.  Mandarin 
oranges  make  a  delicious  compote. 


PEESERVINe  AND   CANNINa 

The  success  of  preserving  and  canning  depends 
upon  heating  the  fruit  until  all  germs  are  destroyed, 
the  fiSt  then  sealing  it  air-tight  while  still  scalding  hot.  In 
this  way  no  new  germs  of  ferment  or  mold  can  reach 
the  fruit.  Patent  jars  are  generally  used,  and  must 
be  put  into  scalding  water  before  being  filled  to  pre- 
vent their  breaking,  and  also  to  sterilize  them.  The 
preserve  must  be  put  into  them  scalding  hot,  a  spoon- 
handle  run  down  the  sides  to  liberate  any  bubbles  of 


COMPOTE  OF  ORANGES  GAKNISHED  WITH  CANDIED  CHEKRIKS.      (SEE  I'AGK  53C.) 


COMPOTES,  PEESEEVING  AND  CANNING,  PICKLES       537 

air,  the  jar  filled  to  the  very  brim,  and  the  top  put  on 
each  one  at  once  after  it  is  filled.  A  simple  and  very 
effectual  way  of  hermetically  sealing  fruit  is  to  cover  ^^^  ^^ 
it  with  paraffin.  This  can  be  obtained  at  any  phar-  paraflBn. 
macy.  Place  the  paraffin  in  a  small  saucepan  on  the 
side  of  the  range ;  it  melts  at  a  low  degree  of  heat. 
When  the  jar  or  glass  is  fiUed  with  hot  preserves 
wipe  the  glass  close  to  the  fruit  to  free  it  of  syrup. 
Cover  the  top  with  a  tablespoonful  of  liquid  paraffin, 
and  do  not  move  the  jar  until  the  paraffin  has  set ;  it 
will  then  adhere  closely  to  the  glass.  This  will  be 
found  a  very  easy  and  satisfactory  way  of  sealing 
fruits.  The  paraffin  when  taken  off  the  fruit  can  be 
washed  and  kept  to  use  again.  In  preserving,  sugar  ytovot- 
is  used  in  the  proportion  of  three  quarters  of  a  pound  tions. 
or  one  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit,  and  the 
fruit  is  thoroughly  cooked.  In  canning,  one  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit  is  used,  the 
fruit  is  only  thoroughly  scalded,  and  so  retains  its 
flavor  better.  Fruits  should  be  under  rather  than 
overripe  for  preserving,  and  only  the  finest  should  be 
selected.  Inferior  fruit  may  be  used  for  jams.  It  is 
most  abundant  when  at  its  best,  and  at  this  time  it  is 
cheapest.  A  porcelain-lined  kettle  and  wooden  spoons  utensils, 
should  be  used  in  the  cooking,  and  a  wide-mouthed 
funnel  is  a  convenience  for  filling  the  jars. 


FBESEBVED  PEACHES 

The  skin  can  easily  be  removed  from  peaches,  leaving  a 
smooth  surface,  by  placing  them  in  a  wire  basket  and  plunging 
it  for  a  moment  into  boiling  lye.  The  lye  is  made  by  adding 
two  cupfuls  of  wood  ashes  to  four  quarts  of  water.  From  the 
lye  put  the  fruit  into  cold  water  and  rinse  it  several  times,  then 
rub  off  the  skin.  Cut  each  peach  in  two  and  place  again  in 
cold  water  to  preserve  the  color  until  ready  to  use.    Place  in  a 


588  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

porcelain-lined  kettle  three  quarters  the  weight  of  sugar  you 
have  of  fruit.  Add  a  very  little  water  to  dissolve  the  sugar. 
Let  it  boil  a  minute,  and  take  off  any  scum  that  rises.  Then 
add  as  much  fruit  as  will  float  without  crowding,  and  cook  un- 
til it  is  transparent,  but  not  until  it  loses  shape.  Eemove  each 
piece  separately  as  soon  as  it  is  cooked.  When  ready  to  fill  the 
jars  place  them  carefully  in  a  pan  of  boUing  water ;  have  the 
tops  and  rubbers  also  in  hot  water.  Part  of  the  fruit  has  become 
cooled  while  the  rest  was  cooking,  but,  as  it  must  go  into  the 
jars  hot,  place  it  again  in  the  boiling  syrup,  a  little  at  a  time. 
Use  a  ladle  or  cup  to  dip  out  the  fruit;  run  a  spoon-handle 
around  the  inside  of  the  jars  after  they  are  filled  to  liberate  any 
air  bubbles.  Add  enough  syrup  to  fill  them  to  overflowing,  and 
adjust  the  rubber  and  top  on  each  jar  as  it  is  fllled.  Any  juice 
that  is  left  over  may  be  boiled  down  to  a  jelly,  or  it  may  be 
bottled  to  use  as  flavoring  or  for  sauces. 

PRESERVED  FEARS 

Peel  the  pears ;  cut  them  in  two  lengthwise,  splitting  the  stem, 
or  they  may  be  left  whole  if  preferred.  Place  them  carefully  in 
jars ;  fill  the  jars  with  a  syrup  of  30°  (see  page  513) ;  cover  the 
jars  without  fastening  the  tops.  Place  the  jars  in  a  boUer  of 
warm  water,  half  covering  them.  Stand  the  jars  on  muf&n-rings, 
slats  of  wood,  or  something  to  raise  them  off  the  bottom  of  the 
boiler,  or  they  will  break  while  cooking.  Cover  the  boiler  and 
cook  the  fruit  until  it  is  tender  and  looks  clear.  Remove  the 
jars  carefully,  fill  them  completely  full,  using  more  hot  syrup, 
or  the  contents  of  one  of  the  cooked  jars.  Adjust  the  tops  and 
set  them  to  cool  where  the  air  will  not  strike  them.  (See  can- 
ning.) Pears  may  be  cooked  the  same  as  peaches,  but  they  are 
such  a  very  tender  fruit,  it  is  better  to  use  the  method  given,  as 
the  shape  is  kept  better  in  this  way. 

PRESERVED  PLUMS 

Preserve  plums  in  the  same  way  as  directed  for  peaches  or 
for  pears.     Remove  the  skin  from  them  or  not.    If  left  on  it  is 


COMPOTES,  PEESERVING  AND  CANNING,  PICKLES       539 

likely  to  crack  open  and  come  off  if  boiled  too  long.  To  pre- 
vent this,  in  a  measure,  prick  the  plums  in  several  places  with  a 
fork  before  cooking. 

GRAPE  PRESERVES 

Press  the  pulp  out  of  each  grape.  Boil  the  pulps  until  tender, 
then  pass  them  through  a  colander  to  remove  the  seeds.  Mix 
the  skins  with  the  pulp  and  juice,  add  as  many  cupfuls  of  sugar 
as  there  are  of  grapes,  and  boil  all  together  until  well  thickened. 

Seal  while  hot  the  same  as  other  preserves. 

Green  grapes  are  preserved  by  cutting  each  grape  in  halves, 
taking  out  the  seeds,  then  adding  an  equal  quantity  of  sugar, 
and  boiling  all  together  until  of  the  right  consistency. 

PRESERVED  STRAWBERRIES  No.  1 

Select  firm,  large  berries  and  remove  the  hulls.  To  each 
pound  of  fruit  (one  basketful  of  berries  will  weigh  about  a 
pound)  add  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 
Mix  it  with  the  berries,  and  let  them  stand  ten  to  fifteen  min- 
utes, or  long  enough  to  moisten  the  sugar  but  not  soften  the 
berries.  Put  them  in  a  granite  or  porcelain-lined  saucepan  and 
let  them  boil  slowly  five  to  ten  minutes,  or  until  the  berries  are 
softened ;  do  not  stir  them,  as  that  will  break  the  berries,  and 
do  not  boil  long  enough  for  them  to  lose  their  shape.  Cook 
one  basketful  of  berries  only  at  a  time.  A  larger  quantity 
crushes  by  its  own  weight.  A  good  method  is  to  have  two 
saucepans  and  two  bowls,  and  leave  the  berries,  after  being 
hulled,  in  the  baskets  until  ready  to  use ;  then  put  a  basketful 
at  a  time  in  a  bowl  with  sugar  sprinkled  through  them ;  while 
one  bowlful-  is  being  cooked,  the  bowl  refilled,  and  the  glasses 
filled,  the  other  one  is  ready  to  use.  In  this  way  no  time  is  lost, 
and  the  cooking  is  accomplished  in  as  short  a  time  as  though 
all  were  put  into  a  preserving  kettle  together.  It  is  well  to 
put  strawberries  into  glasses.  One  basketful  of  berries  will  fill 
two  half-pint  tumblers.  Cover  the  tops  with  paraffin  as  di- 
rected above,  page  537. 


640  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

PBESEBVED  STRAWBEEBIES  No.  2 

Fill  pint  jars  with  as  many  berries  as  they  will  hold ;  pour 
over  them  a  hot  syrup  of  32°  (see  page  513).  After  standing 
a  few  minutes  they  will  shrivel,  and  more  berries  should  be 
added.  Cover  and  cook  them  in  a  boiler  as  directed  for  pre- 
served pears  and  canning. 

Strawberries  require  more  sugar  than  other  fruits  to  pre- 
serve their  color,  therefore  they  do  not  can  well. 

Strawberries,  if  carefully  prepared  by  either  of  the  foregoing 
receipts,  will  resemble  the  "Wiesbaden  preserves. 

BASPBEBBY  PBESEBVE 

Raspberries  are  preserved  the  same  as  strawberries. 

CITBOIT  PBESEBVE 

Pare  and  core  the  citron;  cut  it  into  strips  and  notch  the 
edges  J  or  cut  it  into  fancy  shapes.  Allow  a  pound  of  sugar  to 
a  pound  of  fruit,  and  to  six  pounds  of  the  fruit  allow  four 
lemons  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ginger  root.  Tie  the  gin- 
ger in  a  cloth,  and  boil  it  in  a  quart  and  a  half  of  water  until 
the  flavor  is  extracted ;  then  remove  it,  and  add  to  the  water 
the  sugar  and  the  juice  of  the  lemons ;  stir  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved  and  the  syrup  is  clear ;  take  off  any  scum ;  then  add 
the  citron,  and  cook  untQ  it  is  clear,  but  not  soft  enough  to  fall 
apart.    Can  and  seal  while  hot. 

CANNTNO 

APPLES,  PEACHES,  PEARS,  PLUMS,  CHERRIES, 
BERRIES,  ETC. 

Canning  does  not  differ  from  preserving,  except  in 

p^  the  amount  of  sugar  used.    A  quarter  of  a  pound  of 

tions.       sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit  is  the  rule,  but  none  at  all 

need  be  used,  as  the  fruit  will  keep  just  as  well  with- 


COMPOTES,  PEESERVING  AND  CANNING,  PICKLES 


541 


out  it  if  it  is  thoroughly  sterilized  by  heat  and  im- 
mediately sealed.  Fruits  that  require  sugar  when 
eaten  fresh  need  sugar  in  like  proportion  when  canned. 
The  fruit  may  be  boiled  in  a  syrup  of  14°  which  is 
made  of  one  pound  of  sugar  to  a  quart  of  water,  and 
bottled  the  same  as  when  preserved,  but  an  easier  and 
better  way  is  to  cook  it  in  the  jars.  Pack  the  fruit 
tightly  in  the  jars  and  cover  it  with  a  syrup  of  14°; 
red  fruits  need  more  sugar  to  preserve  their  color,  and  Bed  fruits, 
should  have  a  syrup  of  24°,  which  is  one  pint  of  water 
to  a  pound  of  sugar.  Place  the  jars  in  a  boiler  of 
water,  half  covering  them ;  raise  them  off  the  bottom 
of  the  boiler  by  standing  them  on  muffin-rings  or 
slats  of  wood.  Do  not  let  them  touch.  Cover  the 
boiler,  and  let  them  cook  until  the  fruit  is  tender ;  the 
fruit  will  fall  a  little,  so  the  jars  wiU  have  to  be  filled 
up  again ;  use  for  this  the  contents  of  another  jar, 
or  plain  boiling  water;  adjust  and  fasten  the  tops  at 
once,  and  place  them  where  the  air  will  not  strike  Cooling, 
them  while  cooling. 

Another  way  is  to  pack  the  dry  jars  full  of  fruit, 
fasten  down  the  tops  at  once,  place  them  in  a  boiler 
of  cold  water  nearly  covering  them,  raise  it  to  the 
boiling-point  and  cook  for  an  hour,  and  leave  them 
in  the  water  until  cold  again.  In  this  way  they  are 
cooked  in  their  own  juice,  and  are  said  to  retain  their 
flavor  better  than  where  water  is  used.  Canned  ap- 
ples make  a  very  good  substitute  for  fresh  ones  for 
pies,  compotes  and  apple-sauce. 


JAMS   OR   MARMALADES 

Use  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound 
of  fruit.  Place  the  fruit,  pared  and  cored,  in  layers 
with  the  sugar  in  the  preserving  kettle.  Let  it  stand 
a  few  minutes  to  extract  some  of  the  juice  from  the 
fruit ;  then  place  it  on  the  fire  and  cook  until  it  be- 


542  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

comes  a  thick,  consistent  mass.  Stir  it  frequently  to 
break  the  fruit.  When  it  has  become  tender,  use  a 
potato-masher  to  crush  it.  When  it  looks  clear,  put  a 
Testing,  little  on  a  plate,  and  if  it  thickens,  it  is  done.  Put 
it  into  tumblers  and  cover.  This  does  not  require  to 
be  hermetically  sealed.  In  making  preserves  it  is 
well  to  reserve  all  the  fruit  which  is  not  perfect  and 
make  it  into  jam. 


aunrCE  MASUALADE 

Pare,  core,  and  cut  into  pieces  the  fruit.  Put  the  skins  and 
cores  into  a  kettle;  cover  them  with  water,  and  boil  thirty 
minutes,  or  until  tender ;  strain  off  the  water  through  a  colan- 
der, and  as  much  pulp  as  will  pass  without  the  skins.  To  this 
add  the  rest  of  the  fruit  and  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  su- 
gar to  each  pound  of  fruit.  Boil  it  until  it  becomes  a  jelly-like 
mass.  Mash  the  fruit  as  much  as  possible.  It  may  be  colored 
red,  if  desired,  with  cochineal.  Turn  it  into  glasses,  tin  boxes, 
or  wooden  salt-boxes.  It  becomes  solid,  and  is  served  cut  into 
slices.  The  Russians  cut  it  into  inch  squares,  and  serve  it  as  a 
bonbon. 

ORANGE  IfAEMALADE 

Allow  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon  to  every  five 
oranges.  Weigh  the  fruit  before  cutting  it,  and  allow  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit.  Remove  the 
peel  in  quarters,  and  boil  it  in  plenty  of  water  until  it  is  tender 
enough  to  pierce  easily  with  a  broom-straw ;  then  drain  off  the 
water  and  let  it  cool.  Remove  the  seeds  and  as  much  of  the 
skin  as  possible  from  the  pulp.  Boil  the  pulp  with  the  sugar  un- 
til the  orange  is  well  cooked.  When  the  peel  is  cool  take  one 
piece  at  a  time  in  the  palm  of  the  hand,  and  with  a  tablespoon 
cut  out  all  the  white  pithy  part,  leaving  the  thin  yellow  rind. 
Place  a  number  of  these  pieces  together,  and  with  a  sharp  knife 
cut  them  into  thin  shreds.  By  cutting  many  together  in  this 
way  it  is  done  quickly.    Add  the  shredded  rinds  to  the  cooked 


COMPOTES,  PEESERVING  AND  CANNING,  PICKLES       543 

oranges  and  let  them  cook  until  of  the  right  consistency.  It 
should  be  very  thick,  but  not  solid  like  jelly.  This  is  a  very 
good  marmalade,  and  resembles  the  Dundee  brand. 

APPLE  MARMALADE 

Make  the  same  as  directed  for  jams. 

BRANDT  PEACHES 

Cook  the  fruit  the  same  as  directed  for  preserving  peaches ; 
but  for  this  purpose  the  peaches  are  left  whole,  the  skin  left  on 
or  not,  as  desired.  If  the  skins  are  retained  they  should  be 
carefully  brushed  to  remove  all  the  down ;  use  only  fine  fruit. 
When  the  jars  are  filled,  add  to  each  quart  a  half  cupful  of 
brandy,  and  seal ;  or,  after  filling  the  jars  with  fruit,  boil  down 
the  syrup  until  it  is  very  thick,  and  to  each  cupful  of  syrup  add 
a  cupful  of  brandy;  pour  it  over  the  fruit  and  seal.  Cali- 
fornia brandy  serves  very  well  for  this  purpose. 

JELLIES 

CURRANT  OR  ANY  BERRIES 

To  make  clear  jeUy  use  only  the  perfect  fruit.  Pick  it  over 
carefully  and  remove  the  stems.  Place  it  in  a  porcelain-lined 
kettle  and  crush  it  enough  to  give  a  little  juice  so  it  will  not 
burn.  Cook  it  slowly  until  the  fruit  is  soft,  then  turn  it  into  a 
heavy  cloth  and  press  out  all  the  juice.  Strain  the  juice  several 
times  if  necessary,  to  make  it  clear.  Passing  it  through  filter 
paper  is  recommended.  Measure  the  juice,  and  to  each  pint 
aUow  a  pound  of  sugar.  Put  the  sugar  in  the  oven  to  heat, 
but  do  not  let  it  burn.  Put  the  strained  juice  into  the  kettle 
and  let  it  boil  twenty  minutes ;  then  add  the  hot  sugar,  and  stir 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and  the  juice  is  clear  again.  Pour 
it  into  glasses  and  let  it  stand  until  set.  Grapes  and  cherries 
do  not  jelly  easily,  and  a  little  gelatine  added  will  insure  success. 
When  fruit  does  not  jelly  it  is  usually  because  it  is  over  ripe. 
The  fruit  should  not  be  gathered  after  a  rain,  nor  should  it 
be  washed. 


544  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

APPLE  JELLY 

Wash  the  apples ;  cut  them  in  pieces  without  peeling  or  cor- 
ing, but  remove  any  imperfect  parts.  Barely  cover  them  with 
water  and  boil  slowly  until  they  are  tender,  then  strain  off  the 
liquor  through  cheese-cloth  without  pressing.  Measure  the 
juice,  and  to  each  pint  of  juice  allow  a  pound  of  sugar.  Put 
the  juice  in  the  preserving  kettle  and  let  it  boil  five  minutes ; 
then  add  the  sugar  and  stir  until  it  dissolves.  Continue  to  boil 
it  until  a  little  dropped  on  a  cold  plate  will  jelly.  It  will  take 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  Turn  it  into  tumblers  and  cover. 
This  jelly  spread  on  the  apple  used  in  tarts  improves  them  very 
much. 

GRAB-APPLE  JELLT 

Make  the  same  as  apple  jelly. 

aUINCE  JELLY 

Make  the  same  as  apple  jelly. 

SPICED  GRAPES 

Prepare  the  grapes  as  for  preserving,  by  removing  the  skins, 
boiling  the  pulp,  and  straining  out  the  seeds.  To  seven  pounds 
of  fruit  (weighed  before  the  seeds  are  removed),  add  a  cupful 
of  strong  vinegar,  a  cupful  of  grape-juice  taken  from  the 
grapes  used  for  preserves,  two  ounces  of  cinnamon,  one  ounce 
of  cloves  (tie  the  spices  in  a  cloth  so  they  can  be  removed), 
three  and  one  half  pounds  of  sugar.  Boil  until  it  becomes 
thick  like  a  marmalade,  which  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a 
half.  When  done  turn  it  into  glasses.  This  is  good  with  roast 
meats. 

PLUM   SAUCE  POR  MEATS 

To  each  pound  of  Damson  plums,  add  a  half  cupful  of  sugar, 
one  half  ounce  each  of  cinnamon,  mace,  and  cloves  (tie  the 
spices  in  a  bag).  Remove  the  stones  from  the  plums  and  boil 
untn  it  becomes  thick  like  jam. 


COMPOTES,  PEESERVlNa  AND  CANNING,  PICKLES       545 

SWEET  PICKLED  PEACHES  AND  PLUMS 

Allow  three  and  three  quarter  pounds  of  sugar  to  seven 
pounds  of  fruit.  Put  the  sugar  into  the  preserving  kettle  with 
a  quart  of  vinegar  and  two  ounces  each  of  cloves  and  a  stick  of 
cinnamon.  Boil  them  for  five  minutes  after  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved. Pare  the  peaches  and  stick  a  clove  into  each  one.  Place 
a  few  at  a  time  in  the  boiling  syrup  and  cook  them  until  they 
look  clear,  but  are  not  softened  enough  to  fall  apart.  When  all 
are  cooked,  continue  to  boil  the  syrup  until  it  is  reduced  nearly 
one  half  and  pour  it  over  the  peaches.  Plums  are  pickled  in  the 
same  way.  The  skins  maybe  left  on  both  peaches  and  plums  if 
preferred;  in  which  case  the  down  must  be  brushed  off  the 
peaches,  and  the  plums  must  be  pricked  with  a  fork  in  several 
places  to  prevent  the  skins  cracking  when  placed  in  the  hot 
syrup. 

PICKLED  WALNITTS 

Gather  the  walnuts  when  well  grown,  but  still  soft  enough  to 
be  pierced  through  with  a  needle.  Run  a  heavy  needle  through 
them  several  times  and  place  them  in  strong  brine,  using  as 
much  salt  as  the  water  will  absorb.  Let  them  remain  in  brine 
for  a  week  or  ten  days,  and  change  the  brine  every  other  day  j 
then  drain  the  nuts  and  expose  them  to  the  air  until  they  have 
turned  black.  Pack  them  in  jars  and  cover  them  with  boiling 
hot  vinegar  prepared  as  follows :  To  a  gaUon  of  vinegar  add 
an  ounce  each  of  ginger  root,  mace,  allspice,  and  cloves,  and 
two  ounces  of  peppercorns ;  boil  them  together  for  ten  minutes 
and  strain  over  the  nuts.    Let  them  stand  a  month  before  using. 

CUCUMBER  OR  GHERKIN  PICKLES 

Gather  each  day  the  cucumbers  of  the  size  desired ;  rub  them 
smooth  with  a  cloth  and  place  them  in  brine  strong  enough  to 
float  an  egg.  They  will  keep  in  the  brine  until  wanted  to 
pickle.  Soak  the  cucumbers  in  water  for  two  days  after  taking 
them  from  the  brine,  changing  the  water  once,  and  then  scald 
them  in  vinegar,  or  pour  the  boiling  vinegar  over  them  and  let 

35 


646  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

them  stand  in  it  two  days  before  using.  Put  into  each  two 
quarts  of  vinegar  an  ounce  of  peppercorns,  a  half  ounce  each  of 
mustard  seed  and  mace,  a  piece  of  horseradish,  a  piece  of  alum 
the  size  of  a  pea,  and  a  half  cupful  of  sugar ;  boil  them  together 
for  ten  minutes  before  straining  it  over  the  cucumbers.  The 
very  small  cucumbers  are  called  gherkins. 

GREEN  TOMATO  FICKLE 

1  peck  of  green  tomatoes.  1  teaspoonf  ul  of  turmeric. 

2  quarts  of  onions.  2  pounds  of  brown  sugar. 
Vinegar.  J  pound  of  white  mustard  seed. 
J  tablespoonful  of  cayenne.  J  ounce  of  ground  mace. 

i  tablespoonful  of  ground  1  tablespoonful  of  celery  seed, 

mustard.  1  tablespoonful  of  ground 

cloves. 

Slice  the  tomatoes  and  onions  very  thin ;  sprinkle  a  little  salt 
through  them  and  let  them  stand  over  night.  Drain  them 
through  a  colander  and  put  them  on  to  boil  with  enough  vinegar 
to  cover  them  and  boil  slowly  untU  they  are  clear  and  tender, 
then  drain  them  from  the  vinegar.  Put  into  some  fresh  vine- 
gar the  sugar,  mustard  seed,  mace,  celery  seed,  and  cloves,  and 
let  them  boU  for  a  few  minutes ;  then  pour  it  over  the  drained 
tomatoes,  which  have  been  mixed  with  the  cayenne  pepper, 
ground  mustard,  and  turmeric.  Mix  them  well  together ;  add  a 
half  bottle  of  salad  oil,  and  when  cold  put  it  in  jars. 

CHOW-CHOW 

Cut  into  pieces,  2  large  cabbages. 

J  peck  of  green  tomatoes.  15  onions. 

25  cucumbers. 

Mix  them  together  and  pack  them  in  layers  with  salt;  let 
them  stand  for  twelve  hours,  then  drain  off  the  brine  and  cover 
them  with  vinegar  and  water,  and  let  them  stand  another  twelve 
hours. 


COMPOTES,  PRESERVING  AND  CANNINa,  PICKLES       547 

Drain  off  the  vinegar  and  cover  tliem  with  one  and  one  half  gal- 
lons of  scalding  hot  vinegar  which  has  been  boiled  a  few  min- 
utes with  one  pint  of  grated  horseradish,  one  half  pound  of 
mustard  seed,  one  ounce  of  celery  seed,  one  half  cupful  of  ground 
pepper,  one  half  cupful  of  turmeric,  one  half  cupful  of  cinna- 
mon, and  four  pounds  of  sugar. 

Let  them  stand  until  perfectly  cold,  then  add  one  cupful  of 
salad  oil  and  one  half  pound  of  ground  mustard.  Mix  them  all 
thoroughly  together  and  place  in  jars. 

NASIUETIUM  FICKLE 

Pick  the  nasturtium  seeds  green ;  leave  a  short  stem  on  them 
and  place  them  in  a  weak  brine  for  two  days ;  then  soak  them 
in  fresh  water  for  a  day.  Pack  them  in  jars  and  turn  over 
them  boiling  vinegar;  seal  and  let  them  stand  a  month  before 
using. 


Chaptee  XXYI 
BEVERAaES 

FILTERED  WATER 

It  is  a  recognized  fact  that  many  diseases  are  con- 
tracted througli  drinking  impure  water,  yet  many  are 
so  careless  as  not  to  take  the  simple  means  of  remov- 
ing this  danger.  It  only  requires  boiling  the  water 
to  destroy  the  germs.  This,  however,  does  not  re- 
move the  foreign  matter,  such  as  decayed  vegetable 
growth  and  other  substances,  therefore  it  is  well  to 
filter  as  well  as  to  boil  water.  Many  good  filters  are 
made  which  are  cheap  and  easy  to  clean.  The  Gate 
City  Stone  Filter  is  perhaps  the  simplest  one,  being 
an  earthen  crock  with  a  porous  stone  bottom.  Al- 
Boiling  the  though  all  filters  claim  to  remove  germs  as  well  as 
water,  impurities  from  water,  it  is  safer  to  boil  it  first. 
Bright,  crystal-like  water  in  clear  glass  carafes  is  an 
ornamental  addition  to  the  table  service  as  well  as  a 
convenient  way  of  serving  it.  If  the  carafes  are  stop- 
ped with  cotton  and  placed  in  the  refrigerator  for 
several  hours,  the  water  will  be  refreshingly  cool,  and 
cracked  ice,  which  many  do  not  use,  in  the  belief  that 
it  arrests  digestion,  will  not  be  required. 

to  freeze  carafes 

Fill  the  bottles  a  little  less  than  half  full.  The 
water  should  be  below  the  largest  part  of  the  bulb ; 
stop  the  bottles  with  cotton,  and  over  the  top  of  each 
one  invert  a  tin  cup.    Individual  timbale-molds  may 

548 


BEVERAGES 


649 


Packing. 


be  used.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  tub  with  ice  and  salt, 
place  the  bottles  on  it,  leaving  some  space  around  each 
one,  then  fill  the  tub  with  ice  and  salt,  the  same  as  in 
packing  ice-creams,  and  cover  it.  Within  two  or  three 
hours  the  water  wiU.  become  frozen.  Care  must  be 
taken  that  the  water  in  the  tub  is  never  high  enough 
to  flow  into  the  top  of  the  carafes.  When  ready  to 
serve,  wipe  the  frozen  carafes  and  fill  them  with  ice 
water. 

TEA 

You  cannot  have  first-rate  tea  or  coffee  unless  you 
use  freshly-boiled  water.    Water  that  has  been  boiled 
for  an  hour  or  more  lacks  life,  and  gives  a  dull  taste  The  water, 
to  the  decoction.     Draw  freshly  filtered  water  and  let 
it  come  to  a  hard  boil  before  using. 

Scald  the  pot  and  immediately  put  into  it  the  tea- 
leaves. 

When  the  water  boils  hard,  pour  upon  the  tea- 
leaves  the  required  quantity  of  water.  Shut  down 
the  cover  of  the  tea-pot  and  let  it  stand  just  five  min- 
utes before  serving. 

To  give  the  proportions  of  tea  and  water  is  impos- 
sible, as  such  different  degrees  of  strength  are  de- 
manded. One  teaspoonful  of  tea  to  a  pint  of  water, 
steeped  five  minutes,  makes  a  weak  tea.  Two  tea- 
spoonfuls  give  the  color  of  mahogany,  if  an  English 
breakfast  tea  is  used.  Oolong  tea  does  not  color  the 
water  very  much,  so  its  strength  cannot  be  as  well 
judged  in  that  way.  Tea,  to  be  perfect,  should  not 
steep  longer  than  five  minutes;  it  may  continue  to  Steeping, 
grow  stronger  after  that  time,  but  the  flavor  is  not  as 
good,  and  if  the  leaves  remain  too  long  in  the  water 
the  tea  becomes  bitter. 

The  Russians,  who  are  reputed  to  have  the  best 
tea,  prepare  it  at  first  very  strong,  getting  almost 
an  essence  of  tea;   this  they  dilute  to  the  strength 


Propor- 
tions. 


550  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

desired,  using  water  which  is  kept  boiling  in  the 
samovar.  Water  removed  from  the  kettle  and  kept 
in  a  pot  where  it  falls  below  the  boiling-point,  will 
not  give  satisfactory  results  in  diluting  a  strong 

nie  tea-     infusion. 
^'  Where  a  quantity  of  tea  is  to  be  used,  as  at  recep- 

tions, it  is  well  to  put  the  tea  into  a  swiss  muslin  bag, 
using  enough  to  make  a  very  strong  infusion.  Place 
the  bag  in  the  scalded  pot  j  add  the  boiling  water ; 
after  five  minutes  remove  the  bag.  Keep  a  kettle  of 
water  boiling  over  an  alcohol  flame,  and  use  it  to  di- 
lute the  tea  as  needed.  The  tea  will  then  be  as  good 
as  though  freshly  made.  If,  however,  the  leaves  are 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  pot  the  tea  will  not  be  fit 

The  tea-    ^®  ^^®  after  a  short  time,  and  no  matter  how  much 
l»ii.       it  may  be  diluted,  it  wiU.  still  have  an  astringent 
taste. 

Silver  balls  are  convenient  to  use  where  one  or  two 
cups  at  a  time  only  are  to  be  made  for  the  friend  who 
drops  in  for  the  afternoon  cup  of  tea.  The  ball  hold- 
ing the  tea  is  placed  in  the  cup,  water  from  the  boil- 
ing kettle  poured  over  it,  and  the  ball  removed  when 
the  water  has  attained  the  right  color. 

Various  preparations  of  tea  are  made  by  adding 

Blusian     flavorings.    The  so-called  Russian  tea  is  made  by 
adding   sugar  and  a  thin  slice  of  lemon  to  each 
leapondh.  cup;  tea  punch  by  soaking  the  sugar  first  in  rum 
or  brandy.     These,  however,  as  well  as   milk,  de- 
stroy the  flavor  of  tea  and  change  the  character  of 

Iced  tea.  the  drink.  Iced  tea  is  a  very  refreshing  drink  in 
summer.  It  is  served  in  glasses,  with  plenty  of 
cracked  ice,  and  should  not  be  made  very  strong, 
or  it  win  become  clouded  when  the  ice  is  added. 
Iced  tea  is  improved  by  adding  lemon.  One  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon-juice  to  a  glass  of  tea  is  a  good 
proportion. 


BEVEEAGES  651 

COFFEE 
CARE  OP  THE  COFFEE-BEAN 

It  is  generally  understood  that  tea  becomes  air- 
drawn  if  not  kept  closely  covered.  It  is  also  desir- 
able to  keep  coffee  in  the  same  way. 

COFFEE   MIXTURES  AND  BRANDS 

Mandhaling  coffee,  which  is  grown  by  the  Datch 
government  on  the  island  of  Sumatra,  is  considered 
the  finest  coffee  in  the  world.  The  finest  Mocha  which 
comes  to  this  market  contains  twenty  per  cent,  of 
"Long  Bean."  The  best-known  mark  of  this  coffee 
in  New  York  is  H.  L.  0,  G.  A  favorite  mixture  is  o,  j 
two  thirds  Mandhaling  to  one  third  Mocha.  The  or-  ii  Mocha, 
dinary  mixture  of  two  thirds  Java  to  one  third  Mocha 
is  misleading,  as  there  are  an  indefinite  number  of  in- 
ferior qualities  of  both  "  Mocha  "  and  "  Java."  The 
best  Java  comes  from  the  port  of  Padang  in  Su- 
matra, and  the  only  true  Mocha  comes  from  Aden  in 
Arabia.  The  finest  grades  of  Mexican,  Maracaibo, 
Bogota,  and  Jamaica  coffees  are  highly  esteemed. 
High  grades  of  "  Washed  Rio  "  are  also  richly  flavored 
coffees.  These  high-class  coffees  are  difficult  to  get 
unadulterated.  Another  difficulty  in  buying  coffee 
is  that  each  variety  has  many  grades,  so  the  only  as- 
surance one  can  have  of  the  quality  received  is  the 
good  faith  of  the  grocer  with  whom  one  deals.  A 
practice  among  grocers  is  to  make  mixtures  which 
they  sell  under  their  own  trademark. 

TO  TILAKE  COFFEE 

To  have  the  coffee  right  is  one  of  the  difficulties  of  the  house- 
keeper. The  making  of  coffee  is  a  very  simple  operation,  but 
the  nicety  and  care  with  which  it  is  prepared  mark  the  differ- 


552  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

ence  between  the  good  and  bad  decoction.  The  best  quality  of 
coffee  carelessly  made  is  not  as  acceptable  as  that  well  made 
from  an  inferior  bean.  Coffee  readily  absorbs  foreign  flavors. 
If  the  pot  is  wiped  out  with  a  soiled  cloth,  or  if  the  coffee  is 
strained  through  a  flannel  not  perfectly  sweet,  the  coffee  betrays 
it.  If  the  spout  is  allowed  to  collect  a  film  of  stale  coffee,  it 
will  ruin  all  the  fresh  coffee  put  into  the  pot.  To  have  perfect 
coffee,  use  an  earthen  or  china  pot,  and  have  the  water  boiling 
when  turned  onto  the  coffee.  Like  tea,  the  results  will  not  be 
right  if  the  water  is  allowed  to  fall  below  the  boiling-point  before 
it  is  used.  Have  the  coffee  ground  to  a  fine  powder  in  order  to 
get  its  full  flavor  as  weU  as  strength.  There  is  great  waste  in 
having  coffee  ground  coarse.  A  pound  will  go  three  times  as 
far  in  the  former  as  in  the  latter  case,  therefore  a  good  coffee- 
mill  is  an  economy  in  a  household.  Like  tea,  it  should  also  be 
freshly  made.  It  seems  to  lose  its  fine  flavor  if  kept  hot  for 
any  considerable  time.  Black  coffee  is  usually  made  by  dripping. 
Any  coffee  is  better  made  in  that  way,  using  less  coffee  if  less 
strength  is  desired,  but  a  strong  infusion  diluted  with  hot  milk 
makes  a  better  drink  than  weak  coffee  flavored  with  milk. 


DRIP  COFFEE 

One  heaping  tablespoonful  of  coffee  to  a  cupful,  or  half 
pint,  of  water  will  make  black  coffee.  Put  the  coffee  powder 
into  a  felt  bag,  or  on  a  thick  flannel  laid  on  a  strainer  and  pour 
the  boiling  water  over  it.  The  flannel  must  be  thick,  and  close 
enough  to  prevent  the  fine  powder  straining  through.  If  enough 
coffee  is  used  to  make  it  of  much  depth  in  the  strainer,  the 
water  will  pass  through  very  slowly  and  the  coffee  will  be  cold, 
therefore  have  the  pot  hot  before  beginning,  and  stand  it  in  a 
pan  of  hot  water  while  it  is  dripping.  Coffee  will  not  be  right 
unless  the  water  is  violently  boiling  when  poured  on  the  grounds. 
Serve  the  coffee  at  once. 


BEVERAGES  553 

BOILED  COFFEE 

Put  the  ground  coffee  into  the  pot,  pour  over  it  boiling 
water ;  let  it  come  to  the  boiling-point ;  remove,  and  stir  into  it 
the  slightly  beaten  white  of  an  egg  and  the  crushed  shell;  re- 
place it  on  the  fire  and  let  it  boil  one  minute.  This  is  to  clear 
the  coffee  of  the  fine  particles  held  in  suspension.  Pour  a 
tablespoonf  ul  of  cold  water  down  the  spout  and  place  it  on  the 
side  of  the  range  where  it  will  be  perfectly  still  for  five  minutes, 
then  pour  off  carefully  the  liquid  coffee.  Do  not  let  the  coffee 
boil  three  minutes  altogether.  The  aroma  of  the  coffee  is  the 
escaped  volatile  oils — all  that  is  lost  detracts  just  so  much  from 
the  flavor  of  the  drink. 


ICED  CAFE  AU  LAIT 

Add  enough  cold  black  coffee  to  milk  to  give  it  the  desired 
strength  and  flavor.  Sweeten  to  taste  and  let  it  stand  on  ice 
until  ready  to  serve.  Serve  it  in  glasses  instead  of  cups.  Any 
coffee  left  from  breakfast  prepared  in  this  way  makes  a  re- 
freshing and  acceptable  drink  for  luncheon  in  summer. 


CHOCOLATE 

Maillard's  chocolate  is  excellent ;  his  receipt  is  given  below. 
For  each  cup  of  chocolate  use  one  cupful  of  milk  and  one  bar  of 
chocolate.  With  Maillard's  chocolate  this  is  nearly  one  and  a 
quarter  ounces.  Put  the  cold  milk  into  a  porcelain -lined  sauce- 
pan, break  the  chocolate  into  small  pieces,  and  add  them  to  the 
milk.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  with  a  wooden  spoon 
stir  constantly  and  rapidly  until  the  chocolate  is  dissolved  and 
the  milk  has  boiled  up  once.  Beat  it  vigorously  to  make  it 
smooth,  and  serve  at  once.  More  milk  may  be  added  if  this  is 
too  rich.     Chocolate  should  not  be  kept  standing.* 

*  Huyler'a,  Baker's,  and  other  brands  of  cbocolate  may  be  prepared  In  the  same 
way,  the  proportions  being  regulated  by  the  richness  desired.—  M.  R. 


554:  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

COCOA 

Dissolve  a  teaspoonful  of  cocoa  in  half  a  cupful  of  boiling 
water}  then  add  a  half  cupful  of  boiling  milk  and  boil  it  for 
one  minute,  stirring  vigorously  aU  the  time.     Sweeten  to  taste. 

Brioche  or  Bath  buns  are  good  to  serve  with  chocolate  or 
cocoa  for  a  light  lunch. 

LEMONADE 

Squeeze  the  lemons,  allowing  two  lemons  for  every  three 
glasses  of  lemonade ;  remove  any  seeds  that  may  have  fallen 
in,  or  strain  the  juice  if  the  lemonade  is  wanted  clear.  Sweeten 
the  juice  with  sugar,  or,  better,  with  sugar  syrup.  When  ready 
to  use,  add  the  necessary  amount  of  water  and  a  large  piece  of 
ice  if  served  in  a  bowl,  or  put  cracked  ice  into  the  glasses  if 
only  a  few  glassfuls  are  made.  Put  a  thin  slice  of  lemon  or  a 
few  shavings  of  lemon-zest  into  each  glass. 

OBANOEADE 

To  two  and  one  half  cupfuls  of  orange- juice,  the  juice  of  two 
lemons,  and  the  grated  rind  of  one  orange,  add  two  cupfuls  of 
syrup  at  32°  (see  page  513),  or  sweet,en  to  taste ;  add  enough  water 
to  bring  it  to  11°  on  the  syrup  gauge,  or  to  taste ;  strain  and 
place  it  on  ice  until  ready  to  use. 

COBBLERS 

Put  a  claret-glassful  of  claret  into  a  tumbler ;  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  sugar,  or  sweeten  to  taste ;  fill  the  glass  with  ice  cracked 
fine,  and  add  a  little  water  if  desired.  Place  a  shaker  over  the  glass 
and  mix  it  well ;  add  a  strawberry,  raspberry,  bit  of  pineapple, 
orange,  or  any  fruit  convenient;  add,  also,  two  straws.  Cob- 
blers may  be  made  of  sherry,  Catawba,  or  any  wine,  using  a 
quantity  in  proportion  to  the  strength  desired.  They  are  meant 
as  light  cooling  drinks,  and  should  not  be  strong  of  wine. 


BEVEBAGES  555 

CLAEET  CUP  No.  1 

1  pint  of  claret.  1  slice  of  cucumber  rind. 

1  pint  of  soda.  1  orange. 

Juice  of  1  lemon.  Grapes. 

1  sherry-glassful  of  liqueur.     Bunch  of  mint. 
Large  piece  of  ice. 

CLARET  CUP  No.  2 

1  quart  of  claret.  1  slip  of  borage,  or  a  slice 

1  glassful  of  white  Curagao.        of  cucumber. 
1  glassful  of  sherry.  1  pint  of  soda. 

Juice  of  1  orange.  . 
Sweeten  to  taste. 

CHAMPAGNE  CUP  No.  1 

Juice  of  ^  lemon.  1  slice  of  cucumber. 

1  teaspoonf  ul  of  powdered  sugar.  1  slice  of  pineapple. 

I  sherry-glassful  of  liqueur.  1  orange  cut  in  pieces. 

1  pint  of  champagne.  Bunch  of  mint. 

1  pint  of  soda.  Large  piece  of  ice- 

CHAMPAGNE   CUP  No.  2 

1  quart  of  champagne.  1  slip  of  borage,  or  a  slice 
1  glassful  of  white  Cura9ao.        of  cucumber,  or  green 
1  glassful  of  sherry.  celery-tops. 

Juice  of  1  orange.  1  pint  of  Apollinaris. 

MOSELLE  CUP 

1  quart  of  Braunberger  or       Juice  of  1  lemon. 

Zeltinger.  1  slip  of  borage  or  a  slice 

1  pony  of  brandy.  of  cucumber. 

Juice  of  1  orange.  1  pint  of  ApoUinaris. 

No  sugar. 


556  THE  CENTUEY  COOK  BOOK 

SAUTEBNE  CUP 

Use  brand  "  Graves." 

To  a  quart  of  Sauterne  add  the  strained  juice  of  four  large 
lemons.  Sweeten  with  powdered  sugar  to  taste,  add  a  cocktail 
glassful  of  brandy,  two  thirds  glassful  of  maraschino  (noyau  can 
be  used,  but  it  is  not  so  good),  and  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  Angostura 
bitters.  Put  it  on  ice  until  ready  to  use,  and  then,  not  before, 
add  a  bottle  of  Delatour  soda,  also  chilled,  or  the  same  amount 
of  soda  from  syphon.  Lastly,  add  six  thin  slices  of  cucumber 
and  a  few  pieces  of  any  fruit  convenient,  such  as  pineapple, 
raspberries,  strawberries,  etc.,  and  a  piece  of  ice.  Borage  is 
better  than  cucumber  for  cups  if  it  can  be  had. 

CIDER  CUP 

1  pint  of  cider.  ^  of  1  orange  sliced. 

1  sherry-glassful  of  sherry.  1  yellow  rind  of  1  lemon. 

1  sherry-glassful  of  brandy.  1  slice  of  cucumber. 

1  Hqueur-glassful  of  Cura9ao.  A  dash  of  nutmeg. 

Piece  of  ice.  Sugar  to  taste. 

THE  THORP  COCKTAIL 

The  following  formula  is  for  one  cocktail  only ;  the  same  pro- 
portions must  be  observed  in  making  any  number  of  them. 
Have  the  glasses  well  chilled  before  beginning,  and  always  use 
sugar  syrup  instead  of  sugar  for  sweetening. 

1  teaspoonf  ul  of  sugar  syrup.      5  teaspoonf  uls  of  Old  Tom  gin. 
1  teaspoonf  ul  of  orange  bitters.   5  drops  of  noyau  or  maraschino. 

Enough  cracked  ice  to  chOl  but  not  to  dilute.  Stir  with  a  spoon 
until  thoroughly  chilled  and  blended.  The  mixture  must  not  be 
shaken,  as  that  fills  it  with  air.  Lastly,  take  a  piece  of  lemon 
zest  the  size  of  a  ten-cent  piece,  hold  it  over  the  cocktail,  and 
express  a  little  of  the  oil,  then  drop  it  in  the  glass. 


BEVERAGES  557 

Eeo-iroG 

Beat  the  yolk  of  one  egg  and  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  sugar  to  a  light 
cream ;  whip  the  white  of  the  egg  to  a  stiff  froth ;  mix  them 
together ;  turn  them  into  a  glass ;  add  one  teaspoonf  ul  of  rum 
or  brandy  and  as  much  milk  as  the  glass  will  hold.  Stir  or 
shake  it  well  together ;  add  more  sugar  and  rum  if  desired. 
Grate  a  dash  of  nutmeg  over  the  top ;  whipped  cream  may  be 
used  instead  of  milk,  and  wiU  give  more  nourishment  when  it  is 
used  for  an  invalid. 

MILE  SHAKE 

Fill  a  glass  two  thirds  f uU  of  milk ;  sweeten  it  to  taste  with 
any  fruit  syrup,  or  with  a  syrup  made  of  boUed  sugar  flavored 
with  vanilla,  orange-flower  water,  or  any  liqueur;  strained  pre- 
serve of  any  kind  or  liquefied  jelly  may  be  used.  FUl  up  the 
glass  with  cracked  ice  and  shake  together  until  well  mixed. 

MILK  PUNCH 

Add  to  a  glass  of  milk  a  teaspoonf  ul  or  more  of  sherry,  brandy, 
or  rum ;  sweeten  to  taste ;  shake  well  and  dust  over  the  top  a 
little  grated  nutmeg. 

FEUIT  SYRUPS 

A  refreshing  drink  can  be  made  of  fresh  strawberries,  rasp- 
berries, cherries,  or  currants.  Cook  a  quart  of  fruit  with  a  pint 
of  water  until  well  softened ;  then  strain  and  press  out  the  juice 
through  a  heavy  cloth.  When  cold,  sweeten  and  dilute  to  taste 
and  serve  in  glasses  filled  with  cracked  ice. 

GBAPE-JUIOE 

Add  a  quart  of  water  to  three  quarts  of  grapes,  free  from  the 
stems ;  let  them  come  slowly  to  the  boiling-point ;  then  strain 
through  a  thick  cloth.  Return  the  liquid  to  the  fire,  let  it  again 
come  to  the  boUing-point,  and  turn  at  once  into  glass  jars  and 
seal  immediately.  Use  a  porcelain-lined  kettle  and  wooden 
spoon  in  preparing  the  juice. 


568  THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 

EASFBERBT  VINEGAB 

Put  three  quarts  of  ripe  raspberries  into  an  earthen  bowl ; 
pour  over  them  a  quart  of  vinegar  j  at  the  end  of  twenty- 
four  hours  press  and  strain  out  the  liquor  and  turn  it  over 
another  three  quarts  of  fresh  ripe  berries.  Let  it  stand  another 
twenty-four  hours ;  again  express  and  strain  the  juice,  and  to 
each  pint  add  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes. 
Turn  it  into  bottles,  and  cork  when  cold.  When  used  dilute  the 
raspberry  vinegar  with  three  parts  of  water. 

KOUMISS 

Koumiss,  which  is  simply  fermented  milk,  can  easily 
be  made  at  home  after  the  receipt  given  below,  and 
can  then  be  had  sweet  and  is  much  more  palatable 
than  the  acid  koumiss  sold  at  pharmacies.  It  is  a 
valuable  drink  or  diet  for  invalids  with  weak  diges- 
tion, or  for  dyspeptics. 

For  making  koumiss  it  is  necessary  to  have  strong 
bottles  (champagne  bottles  are  best),  and  they  must 

Drivii^     he  scrupulously  clean.     A  corking  machine  is  re- 

the  corks,  quisite  for  driving  in  the  corks.  This  is  placed  over 
the  bottle ;  the  cork,  which  has  steamed  an  hour  or 
more  in  hot  water  until  softened,  is  placed  in  the  side 

Tying  the    opening  and  the  rammer  pounded  until  the  cork  is 

corks,      fj.ee  from  the  machine.     The  cork  must  be  tied  down 

to  insure  safety.    A  loop  of  twine  is  placed  over  it, 

then  drawn  tight  around  the  neck  of  the  bottle, 

The  Cham-    brought  back,  and  tied  over  the  top  of  the  cork. 

pagne  tap.       ^  champagne  tap  for  drawing  the  koumiss  is  also 

necessary,  as  it  contains  so  much  gas,  it  is  impossible 

to  draw  the  cork  without  losing  a  good  part  of  the 

contents  of  the  bottle. 

Eeceipt. — FUl  quart  bottles  three  quarters  full  of   fresh 

milk ;  add  to  each  one  a  tablespoonf ul  of  fresh  brewer's  yeast 


0  S  21 


BEVERAGES  559 

and  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  sjTup,  The  syrup  is  made  by- 
boiling  sugar  and  water  together  to  a  syrup  (the  sugar  must 
be  used  in  this  form).  Shake  the  bottles  for  some  minutes  to 
thoroughly  mix  the  ingredients,  then  fill  them  nearly  full  with 
milk  and  shake  them  again.  Cork  and  tie  them,  and  stand  them 
upright  in  a  cool  place  for  two  and  a  haK  days ;  then  turn  them 
on  the  side  and  use  as  needed.  They  should  be  kept  in  a  cool, 
dark  place,  so  the  fermentation  will  be  slow,  and  the  tempera- 
ture should  be  about  52<^,  or  low  enough  to  prevent  the  milk 
from  souring. 

Brewer's  yeast  is  best  and  gives  the  koumiss  the  taste  of 
beer ;  but  compressed  yeast  may  be  used,  a  fifth  of  a  cake  dis 
solved  being  added  to  each  bottleful  of  milk. 


Chapter  XXVII 

WINES 

The  temperance  movement  has  made  great  advance 
since  tlie  days  when  it  was  not  considered  etiquette 
for  a  man  to  leave  the  table  sober,  and  also  from  re- 
cent times  when  men  lingered  at  the  table  after  the 
ladies  had  withdrawn,  to  partake  of  strong  liquors 
with  their  cigars. 

To-day  there  are  some  people  who  exclude  wine 
entirely  from  their  table,  and  many  others  who  serve 
it  only  in  moderation.    It  is  common  now  to  have 
but  three  kinds,  such  as  sherry,  claret  and  cham- 
pagne, and  sometimes  only  one.    In  this  respect,  there- 
fore, one  may  follow  his  own  conviction  without  fear 
of  being  considered  peculiar. 
The  usual  order  of  serving  wines  is  as  follows : 
With  the  jBrst  course  of  the  dinner  there  should  be 
-^fYate      served  a  white  wine  of  some  kind,  such  as  Niersteiner, 
wines.      Hochheimer,  or  Liebfrauenmilch  amongst  the  Rhine 
wines;  Zeltinger,  Josephshofer,  or  Scharzberger  Mus- 
catel amongst  the  Moselle  wines ;  Haut  Barsac,  Haut 
Sauteme,  or  Chateau  Yquem  amongst  the  white  Bor- 
deaux wines ;  and  ChabKs,  Nuersault  or  Montrachet 
amongst  the  white  Burgundies. 
Sherry.         Sherry  is  served  with  soup.    It  should  be  light  and 
pj^_      dry,  and  should  be  chilled  by  being  placed  in  the  ice- 
pagne.      box  for  some  time  before  dinner.    Champagne  is  now 
served  with  the  fish  and  continued  aU  through  dinner. 
Claret      Claret  or  Burgundy  is  served  with  the  game.    Pontet 

560 


WINES 


561 


Tempera- 
tare. 


Sweet 
cham- 
pagne. 


Canet,  Larose,  L^oville,  Margaux,  and  Laflte  are  stan- 
dard vintages  amongst  the  clarets.  Chambertin,  Clos 
de  Tart,  Clos  de  Vougeot  and  Romance  amongst  the  Burgxindy, 
Burgundies.  Claret  is  sometimes,  and  very  properly, 
served  at  the  same  time  as  champagne,  as  many  peo- 
ple drink  no  other  wine.  In  this  case  a  higher  grade 
of  claret  or  a  fine  Burgundy  should  be  served  with 
the  game.  The  white  Bordeaux  and  Burgundy  wines 
should  be  served  cool. 

Rhine  and  MoseUe  wines  are  best  at  a  temperature 
of  about  40°  F. 

The  champagne  should  be  very  dry  (brut)  and 
served  very  cold.  Half  an  hour  in  ice  and  salt  before 
dinner  will  bring  it  to  about  the  right  temperature. 
Sweet  champagnes  are  but  seldom  served  nowadays, 
and  are  more  appreciated,  perhaps,  at  ladies'  lun- 
cheons than  at  dinners.  Sweet  champagne  cannot 
be  too  cold  and  should  be  f  rapp6  if  convenient.  Clarets 
and  Burgundies  should  stand  upright  on  the  dining- 
room  mantelpiece  for  at  least  twenty-four  hours  be- 
fore they  are  required,  in  order  that  the  wine  may 
acquire  the  temperature  of  the  room,  as  well  as  be 
prepared  for  decanting.  Wines  old  in  bottle  will 
form  more  or  less  deposit,  which,  if  shaken  up  with 
the  wine,  will  injure  it.  After  standing  twenty-four 
hours  the  sediment  will  f  aU  and  the  wine  should  then 
be  decanted  (with  the  aid  of  a  candle),  care  being 
taken  that  no  sediment  passes  into  the  decanter. 

Neither  claret  nor  Burgundy  is  good  the  second 
day  after  decanting.  They  contain  too  small  a  per- 
centage of  alcohol  to  keep  their  flavor  more  than  a 
few  hours  after  the  bottle  is  opened,  and  what  remains 
over  from  dinner  should  be  put  into  the  vinegar  demi- 
john. Ports  and  Madeiras  are  but  little  used  at  din- 
ners, but  may  stUl  be  served  with  the  cheese  at  the 
end  of  dinner,  or  with  the  dessert.    A  glass  of  port 

36 


Care  of 
wines. 


Decanting 


Fort 


662 


THE  CENTURY  COOK  BOOK 


with  a  biscuit  at  five  o'clock  is  very  popular  in  many 
quarters,  and  wiU  be  welcomed  by  those  who  are 
afraid  of  tea. 

Hadeira.  -^  ^^®  Madeii'a  may  be  served  with  the  soup  instead 
of  sherry,  and  is  the  wine  par  excellence  to  drink 
with  terrapin.    A  superior  quality  of  brandy  and  var 

Braadj.  rious  liqueurs  are  usually  served  with  coffee.  In  buy- 
ing wines  it  is  always  best  to  go  directly  to  a  reliable 

liqaeun.  wine  merchant  and  take  his  advice.  Especially  is 
this  true  when  the  buyer  himself  has  no  great  know- 
ledge of  the  different  kinds  of  wines.  It  has  been 
said  that  a  man's  wine  merchant  should  stand  in  as 
dose  relation  to  him  as  his  lawyer  or  his  physician. 


INDEXES 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX 


Agra  Dolce,  291. 
Allemande  Sauce,  279. 
Almonds,  burnt,  520. 

Chopping,  59. 

Hard-bake,  626. 

Salted,  533. 
"        No.  2,  533. 

Sugared,  520. 
"       Wafers,  478. 
Anchovy  canapes,  368. 
Angel  cake,  467. 

Ice-cream,  497. 

Paifait,  505. 
Angelica,  392. 
Apples,  530. 

Baked  for  breakfast,  432. 
•'        "    luncheon,  432. 

Compote  of,  535. 

Clarified,  243. 

Charlotte,  430. 

Dumplings,  429. 

Flaming,  433. 

Fritters,  427. 

Fried  with  pork,  176. 

Jelly,  544. 

Marmalade  of,  543. 

Pie,  454. 

Pudding,  429. 

Sauce,  243,  288. 

Souffle,  424. 

With  rice,  430. 

"    No.  2,  43L 
"    Corn-starch,  432. 
Apricot  Sauce,  446. 
Artichokes,  220. 

Bottoms,  221. 
Asparagus,  211. 

Creani  of,  106. 

Tips,  212. 
Aspic  jelly,  321. 

To  chop,  323. 

To  clear,  322. 

Chicken,  323. 

Crofttons,  323. 

To  mold,  323. 

To    ornament    molds    for, 
324. 

Quick,  322. 

Of  p&t6  en  BellevTie,  884. 

B 

Baba,  440. 
Bacon,  178. 

"        how  to  out,  78, 


Baked  Apples,  432. 

Beans,  217,  234. 

Custard,  396. 

Fish,  115. 

Ham,  177. 

Lobster,  137. 

Macaroni,  225. 
Baking,  69. 

Bread,  343. 

Cake,  464. 

Custards,  396. 
Balloons,  428. 
Banana  trifle,  412. 
Bananas,  sliced,  531. 

Sauted,  fried,  531. 
Barbecue  of  fish,  331. 
Bath  buns,  358. 
Batter  pudding,  428. 
Bavarian  creams,  400. 

General  dii-ections  for  mak- 
ing, 400. 

Chocolate,  401. 

Diplomatic,  403. 

Fruit,  401. 

en  surprise,  402. 

Italian  cream,  40L 

Panach^e,  402. 

Plain,  400. 

Rice,  402. 
Beans,  217. 

Baked,  217,  234. 

Boiled,  217. 

Croquettes  of,  217. 

Dried,  217. 

Lima,  210. 

Pur^e  of,  217. 

Salads,  377. 

Soup,  229,  256. 

String,  209. 
B^arnaise  sauce,  288. 
Beating,  78. 
Bechamel  sauce,  279. 
Beef,  146. 

h  la  mode,  148. 

Bouilli,  149. 

Braised,  147. 

Cold  roast,  151. 

Corned,  157,  234. 
'•       hash,  158. 

Fillet  of,  149. 
"       How  to  buy,  150. 

Inside  flank  of,  153. 

Pie,  152. 

Raw  sandwiches,  367. 

Ragoftt  of,  153. 

To  roast,  146. 

Rolled  roast  of,  146. 

Round  of,  147. 

665 


Shin  of,  to  prepare,  260L 

Stock,  88. 

Tongue,  174. 

Warmed  over,  152. 
Beefsteaks,  155. 

To  Ijroil,  156. 

Pie,  235. 

Pudding,  25L 
Beets,  217. 

Berries,  531.  y 

Berry   Design   for   molds, 

326. 
Beverages,  548. 
Bird's-Nest  salad,  385. 
Bischoff  sauce,  447. 
Biscuits,  beaten,  247. 

Bran,  357. 

Dough  fritters,  428. 

Tea,  352. 
Biscuit  glac£,  506. 
Bisque  of  lobster,  109. 
Black  bean  soup,  229. 
Blanc-mange,  399. 
Blueberry  pudding,  241. 
Boiled  beans,  217. 

Cabbage,  212,  253. 

Calf'shead,  175. 

Chicken,  185. 

Cucumbers,  208. 

Custard,  394. 

Eggs,  262. 

Fish,  114. 

Ham,  177. 

Lobster,  136. 

Mutton,  163. 
Boiling,  67. 

Sugar,  510. 
Bonbons,  522. 
Bone,  to,  a  fowl,  181. 
Bones,  grilled,  188. 

Marrow,  159. 
Boned  chicken,  182. 

Turkey,  193. 

Shoulder  of  mutton,  163. 

ShorUder  of  veal,  168. 
Boning,  77. 
Boston    brownbread,   237, 

347. 
Boudins  Rouennals,  302. 
Bouilli,  149. 

Salad,  383. 
Bouillon,  97. 
Bouquet  for  soups,  85. 
Brains,  calf,  307. 

Marinade  of,  307. 

Braising,  71. 
Braised  beef,  147. 

Chicken,  186. 


566 


ALPHABETICAL  INIffiX 


Bran  biscuits,  357. 
Brandy  peaclies,  543. 

Sauce,  445. 
Bread,  'MS. 

General  directions  for  mak- 
ing, 340. 

Baking,  343. 

Boston  brown,  237,  347. 

Braids  and  twists  of,  350. 

Care  of,  344. 

Cake,  482. 

Corn,  353. 
"    soft,  247. 

Fritters,  349. 

Graham,  346. 

Gluten,  347. 

Made  with  baking  powder, 
346. 

Milk,' 345. 

Mixing,  342. 

Pans,  344. 

Panada,  298. 

Potato,  345. 

PuUed,  349. 

Puddings,  434. 

Bolls,  349. 

Sauce,  287. 

Sticks,  357. 

Tarts,  435. 

Tliin  Indian,  236. 

Water,  No.  1,  345. 
"       No.  2,  345. 

Whole  wheat,  346. 
Bread  and  Butter  Pudding, 

434. 
Brioche,  359. 

Roll,  360. 

Crown,  360. 

For  timbales,  361. 

Timbale  of,  381. 
Bred  Torte,  472. 
Broiled  Lobster,  137. 

Oysters,  132. 
Broiling,  70. 
Brotli,  Chicken,  95. 

Clam,  95. 

Mutton,  95. 

Made  quickly  for  invalids,  96. 
Brown  Betty,  429. 
Brown  butter  sauce,  291. 
Brown  sauce,  282. 
Brown  stock,  88. 
Browned  oysters,  231. 
Brussels  sprouts,  214. 
Buckwheat  cakes,  363. 
Buns,  Bath,  358. 

Brioche,  360. 
Burnt  almonds,  520. 
Butter,  34,  58. 

How  to  make,  258. 


Cabbage,  212. 

Boiled,  212.  253. 

Hot  slaw,  214. 

With  Cheese,  213. 

Swedish,  213. 
Cabinet  puddings,  438. 


CaU  frappe,  509. 

Parfait,  504. 

au  lait,  iced,  553. 
Cake.  462. 

Bules  for  making,  462. 

To  line  tins   with   paper, 
46a 

To  grease  pans,  464. 

To  bake,  464. 

Mixing  sponge,  465. 

Mixing  batter,  465. 

Angel,  467. 

Almond  wafers,  478. 

Bread,  482. 

Brod  Torte,  472. 

Cakes,  small  fancy,  475. 

Carolines,  475. 

Chocolate  Eclairs,  474. 

Chocolate  filling  for,  469. 

Cocoanat  balls,  477. 

Coffee,  368 

Cookies,  plain,  48L 

Cream,  474. 

Cream  filling  for,  468. 

Cream  cakes  and  Eclairs,  473. 

Crullere,  481. 

Cup,  plain,  470. 

Cup,  richer,  47L 

Doughnuts,  481. 

Eclairs,  474. 

Election,  244. 

Fruit,  plain,  472. 

Fiuit,  rich,  473. 

Garnishing,  486. 

GauJfres,  479. 

Genoese,  467. 

Gingerbread,  soft,  483. 

Gingersnaps,  481. 

Gold  and  silver,  470. 

Hoe,  246. 

Hoe,  No.  2,  247. 

Hoe,  Colonial,  237. 

Hominy,  356. 

Icing  and  decorating,  483. 

Jelly  rolls,  46& 

Johnny,  237. 

Jumbles,     cookies,     plain, 
480. 

Jumbles,  480. 

Layer,  468. 

Lady  fingers,  476. 

Little  pound  cakes,  478. 

Macaroons,  477. 

Madeleines,  477. 

Marble,  470. 

Meringues  and  kisses,  475. 

Molasses,  483. 

One  egg,  482. 

Orange,  469. 

Orange  filling  for,  469. 

Orange  quarters,  478. 

Pound,  471. 

Pistachio,  469. 

Sand  tarts,  480. 

Sponge,  466. 

Sunshine,  467. 

Uses  for  stale,  411. 

Venetian  cakes,  479. 

Warren's,  482. 


White,  47L 

White  sponge,  467. 

With  custard,  41L 
Calf's  brains,  307. 

k  la  poulette,  308. 

k  la  vinaigrette,  307. 

Head  boiled,  175. 

With  vinaigrette  sauce,  176. 

Soup,  103. 

Heart,  174. 

Liver,  172. 
Canapes,  368. 

Anchovy,  368. 

Cheese,  368,  37L 

Ham,  368. 

Lorenzo,  369. 

Pineapple,  336. 

Sardine,  368. 
Canary  pudding,  436. 
Candied  fruits,  California, 

392. 
Candies,  517. 

General     remarks     about 
making,  517. 
Candy,  Molasses,  527. 

Peanut,  527. 

Taffy,  527. 
Canned  fruits,  393. 
Canning,  5.36. 
Canvasback  ducks,  196. 
Caper  sauce,  164,  279. 
Carafes,  to  freeze,  548. 
Caramel,  78.  391,  512. 
Carameled  nuts,  526. 
Caramels,  chocolate,  522. 

Vanilla,  coffee,  maple,  522. 
Caramel  custard,  396. 

Ice-cream,  496. 
Carrots  and  turnips,  216. 
Casserole  of  rice,  327. 

Of  potato,  327. 
Cauliflower,  214. 

aa  gratin,  215. 

Salad,  377. 
Celery,  cream  of,  106. 

Stewed,  216. 

au  jus,  216. 

Salad,  376. 

And  walnut  salad,  SSL 

Sauce,  279. 
Cereals,  227. 
Chafing  dish  cookery,  329. 

Kind  of,  to  use,  329. 

Dishes  suitable  for,  330l 

Oysters  in,  233,  331. 

Meats  in,  335. 
Champagne  cup.  No.  1,  555. 

No.  2,  555. 

Jelly,  416. 
"    with  flowers,  416. 

Sauce,  283. 
Charlotte,  apple,  430. 

Russe,  403. 

Filling,  No.  1,  404, 

"        No.  2  (With  EggsX 

406. 

"        No.  3  (With  Fruit) 

405. 

"    '     Na  4, 405. 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX 


567 


Charlotte. 

FiUing,  No.  5,  405. 
' '        Princesse  de  Galles, 
406. 

Strawberry,  406. 

Tiiiibale  of  Brioche,  406. 
Chartreuse,  83. 

Of  chicken,  190. 

Of  spinach,  211. 
Chateaubriand,  157. 
Chaudfroid  of  chicken,  191. 

Of  sweetbreads,  306. 

Sauce,  281. 
Cheese,  369. 

Cottage,  373. 

Dishes,  369. 
"         General  directions 
for,  369. 

Canapes,  368,  371. 

And  cracliers,  371. 

Fondue,  335. 

Golden  Bucli,  372. 

Patties,  373. 

Sandwiches,  367. 

Souffle,  370. 

Straws,  372. 

Welsh  Rarebit,  371. 
Cherry  bread  pudding,  241. 
Chestnuts,  candied, 
(marrons  glac6),  521. 

Parfait  of,  506. 

Pain  de  marrons,  420. 

Pur^e,  215,  410. 

StufBiig.  185. 

With  cream,  410. 
Chickens,  179. 

To  judge  of,  179. 

To  clean  and  draw,  180. 

To  bone,  181. 

To  truss,  183. 

h  la  Vienne,  189. 

Aspic,  323. 

Aspic  with  walnuts,  384. 

Baltimore  style,  189. 

Boiled,  185. 

Braised,  186. 

Breasts  with  poulette  ssnce, 
190. 

Broiled,  186. 

Broth,  95. 

Consomm^,  100. 

Chartreuse  of,  190. 

Chaudfroid,  191. 

Fricassee,  white,  brown,  186. 

Fried,  187. 

Fritters,  187. 

Gumbo,  249. 

Imperial,  189. 

Jellied,  boned,  182. 

Leggs  stuffed,  188. 

Livers,  309,  333. 

Mayonnaise,  192. 

Pie,  English,  192. 

Pur6e,  310. 

Souffle,  190. 

Soup,  plain,  100. 
Chocolate,  388,  553. 

To  melt,  388. 

Bavarian,  401. 


Caramels,  522. 

With  condensed  milk,  337. 

Cream,  397. 

Creams,  524. 

Custai-ds,  396. 

ficlairs,  474. 

Filling  for  cake,  460. 

Ice-cream,  496. 

Icing  No.  1,  484. 
"  No.  2,  486. 
"       No.  a  485. 

Parfait,  504. 

Peppermints,  526. 

Pralin6,  504. 

Pudding,  398. 

Sauce,  435,  447. 

Souffle,  423. 
Chopscutfromshoulder,253. 

Fish,  121. 

Lobster,  138. 

Muttou,  166. 

In  paper  cases,  166. 

k  la  Maintenon,  167. 

Pork,  177. 
Chow-chow,  546. 
Chowder,  clam.  111,  230. 

Fish,  110,  230. 

Potato,  110. 
Christmas  plum  pudding, 

437. 
Cider  cup,  556. 
Clam  broth,  95. 

Chowder,  111,  230. 

Fritters,  136. 

Soup,  104,  230. 
Clams,  135. 

To  open.  135. 

Cream  of,  107. 

Creamed,  136. 

Roasted,  136. 
Claret  cup  No.  1,  555. 
"       "     No.  2,  555. 
Clarified  apples,  243. 
Clarifying  fat,  74. 

Fruit  juices,  415. 

Jelly,  413. 

Soups,  86. 
Club  house  fish  balls,  128. 
Cobblers,  554. 
Cocoa,  5.34. 
Cocoanut  balls,  477. 

Cakes,  525. 

Creams,  524. 

Pie,  456. 

Pudding,  398. 

Sauce,  449. 
Codfish  and  cream,  233. 
Codfish  balls,  128,  232. 

Salt,  127. 
Coffee,  551, 

Care  of  beans,  551. 

Mixtures  and  brands,  561. 

To  make,  651. 

Drip,  552. 

Cake,  368. 

Ice-cream,  497. 

Iced  (aa  lait),  653. 

Icing  for  Eclairs,  485. 

Jelly,  416. 


Cold  chicken  pie,  192. 

Desserts,  394. 

Jelly  sauce,  449. 

Tongue,  175. 

Fish,  12a 

Roast  beef,  15L 

Slaw,  398. 
Coloring,  392. 

Soups,  87. 

Sugar,  393. 
Common  stock,  87. 
Compote  of  apples,  535. 

Oranges,  536. 

Peaches  and  apricots,  636. 

Pears,  536. 
Consomm^,  98, 100. 
Cookies,  plain,  481. 
Cooking  for  pleasure,  38. 
Corned  beef,  157,  234. 

Hash,  158. 
Corn  bread  (softX  247. 
No.  1,  353. 
No.  2,  363. 

Canned,  220. 

Cream  of,  106. 

Dodgers,  247. 

On  the  ear,  220. 

Mock  oysters,  220. 

Pudding,  236. 
Cornmeal  mush,  228. 

Fried,  224. 
Cornstarch    with    apples, 
432. 

Pudding,  plain,  397. 
With  canned  fruit,  398. 
cocoanut,  398. 
chocolate,  398. 

Chocolates,  398. 
Cottage  pudding,  435. 
Courses,  24. 
Court  bouillon,  115. 
Crab-apple  jelly,  544. 
Crabs,  141. 

Deviled,  141. 

Crabs,  oyster,  143,  310. 
Entree  of,  310. 

Soft-shell,  142. 

Toast,  334. 

Stew,  144. 

St  Laurent.  143. 

Stuffed    with   mushrooms, 
142. 
Cracked  wheat,  228. 
Cranberry  jelly,  244. 

Pie,  456. 

Sauce,  287. 
Cream  of  asparagus,  106. 

Celery,  106. 

Clams,  107. 

Of  com,  106. 

Of  green  peas.  106. 

Of  oysters,  108. 

Of  string  beans,  106. 

Cakes,  474. 

Chicken  forcemeat.  No.  1, 
297. 

"  No.  2 

287. 


568 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX 


Cream. 

Czarina,  410. 
DevoDBhire,  268. 
Dressing,  236. 
Fried,  441. 
Italian,  40L 
Pie,  466. 
To  whip,  408. 
Soups,  84,  105. 
Wldps,  409. 
Creamed  clams,  136. 
"         dislies,  332. 
"         mackerel,  127. 
Creams,  chocolate,  524. 
Cocoanut,  624. 
Nut,  523. 
Peppermint,  525. 
CrSme  Parisienne,  441. 
Croquenbouche   of    Maca* 

roons,  408. 
Croquettes,  292. 
Sauce  for  mixing,  293. 
To  mold,  293. 
To  fry,  294. 

Materials  used  for,  296. 
Bean,  217. 
Egg,  272. 
Potato,  202. 
Sweet  potato,  207. 
Croustade  of  shrimps,  130. 
Bread,  328. 
Bx)ll8,  323. 
CroQte-au-pot,  89. 
CroQtons  and  croustades, 

81. 
Crullers,  481. 
Crumbs,  51,  75. 
Crumpets,  355. 
Cucumbers,  boiled,  218. 
Picldes,  545. 
Salad  for  flsh,  377. 
Stuffed,  218. 
And  tomato  salad,  877. 
Cup  cake.  470,  471. 
Currant  Jelly,  543. 

Shortcake,  442. 
Currants,  531. 
Curried  eggs,  271. 
Curry,  254. 
Madras,  254. 
Sauce,  284. 
Custards,  394. 
Baked,  396. 
Boiled,  No.  1,  894. 
"        No.  2,  396. 
Caramel,  396. 
Chocolate,  395. 

"  baked,  897. 

"  cream,  397. 

Rennet,  897. 
Sauce,  boiled,  447. 


Dabs,  238. 

Daisy   desljnis  for  mold*, 

826. 
Daubing,  76. 
Decorating  cakes,  486. 


Decorations  for  meat  jelly, 

326. 
Desserts,  Information  per- 
taining to,  386. 
Cold,  394. 
Deviled  crabs,  141. 
Devonshire  cream,  258. 
Diplomatic  Bavarian,  403. 

Pudding,  403. 
Dishes  a  la  Newburg,  139, 

333. 
Doughnuts,  481. 
Dried  beans,  217. 
Mushrooms,  320. 
Drip  coffee,  552. 
Drippings,  51,  59. 
Ducks,  tame,  195. 
Canvasbacks  and  redheads, 

196. 
Salmi  of,  196. 
Dumplings,  apple,  429. 
With  baking  powder,  179. 
"    suet,  170. 


Eclairs,  470. 

Chocolate,  vanilla,coffee,474. 
Economical  living,  44. 
Eggs,  58,  261. 

1 1'Aurore,  270. 

k  la  Bourguinonne,  270. 

k  la  Polignac,  267. 

k  la  Reine,  273. 

k  la  Villeroi,  269. 

au  beurre  noir,  273. 

au  miroir,  266. 

Balls  for  soup,  92. 

Boiled,  262. 

Cocotte,  266. 

Croquettes,  272. 

Curried,  271. 

Fried,  264. 

Golden  cream  toast,  270. 

How  to  judge  and  keep,  261. 

Livingston,  273. 

Nogg,  557. 

Omelet,  263. 

Poached,  263. 

On  anchovy  toast,  268. 

"        "   (entr6eX  268. 

Salads,  381. 

Sandwiches,  366. 

Sauce,  278. 

Scrambled,  264. 

Shirred,  266. 

Stuffed,  271,  272. 

Sur  le  plat,  266. 

With  tomatoes,  268,  332. 

In  tomatoes,  380. 

To  whip,  389,  463. 

Plant*  215. 
•'       stuffed,  215. 
Election  cake,  244. 
Emergencies,  55. 
English  Bdufiins,  355. 
Enterprize  chopper,  293. 
Entrees,  292. 
Espagnole  sauce,  282. 


False  terrapin,  808. 
Fancy  molding,  413. 

In  aspic,  324. 
Farinacious  foods,  222. 
Farina  bails,  223. 

Pudding,  424. 

Boiled,  436. 
Fat,  to  clarify,  74. 

To  try  out,  74. 

Saving,  51. 
Figs,  591. 

Fig  pudding,  438.  ' 
Fillet  of  beef,  149. 
Fillets  of  fish,  112.  118,125. 
Fillets  mignon,  157. 

Of  salmon,  130. 
Filtered  water,  548. 
Fish,  112. 

Balls,  128,  232. 
"      fresh,  128. 

Baked,  115. 

Barbecue  of,  SSL 

Bones  of,  112. 

To  bone  and  remove  fllletti^ 
112. 

To  boil,  113. 

Time  to  boil,  113. 
-To  boil  whole,  114. 

To  serve  boiled,  114. 

Sauces  for  boUed,  114. 

Court  bouillon  for,  116. 

To  liroil,  116. 

To  carve,  113. 

Cold,  123. 

Cooking,  112. 

Chops,  121. 

Chowder,  110,  230. 

Dish  for  pink  liuicheon,  124. 

Dressing,  112. 

Fillets  of,  112, 118,  122,  126. 

Fillets  of,  baked  with  cus- 
tard or  tomatoes,  122. 

To  fry,  117. 

Fillets  of  fried,  118. 

Freshness  of,  112. 

Frozen,  112. 

Forcemeat  of,  297. 

Garnishing,  114. 

Kettle,  113. 

Keeping,  112. 

Pudding,  123. 

And  oysters,  231. 

Sauces  for,  275. 

Sandwiches,  366. 

Scalloped,  120. 

"         au  gratin,  121. 

Stock  and  soup,  103. 

To  saut6,  117. 

Timbale,  123. 

Trimming,  112. 
Five  o'clock  tea,  33. 
Flageolets,  210. 
Flaming  apples,  432. 
Flavoring,  60,  80. 

When  to  add,  389. 
Flavors,  380. 
Floating  island,  395. 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX 


569 


Flounder.  roHed  fillets  of,  125 
Flowers  for  garnishing,  393. 
Floor  polish,  260. 
Foamy  sauce,  445. 
Fondant,  513. 

To  make,  514. 

Bonbons  of,  522. 

Icing,  485. 
Fondue,  335. 
Fontage  cups,  300. 
Forcemeat,  chicken,  cream, 
297. 

No.  i,  297. 

Fisli,  cream,  297. 

Quenelle,  298. 

BiiUs,  92. 

For  boned  fowls,  183. 
Fowls,  to  bone,  181. 

To  truss,  183. 
French  dressing  for  salads, 
375. 

Omelet,  264. 
Fricasseeing,  71. 
Fricassee  of  chicken,  186. 

Oysters,  232. 
Fried  bananas,  531. 

Cream,  441. 

Corn-meal  mush,  224. 

Hominy,  224. 
Fried  oysters,  132. 
Fritters,  426. 

Apple,  427. 

Batter,  426. 

Biscuit  dough,  428. 

Bread,  349. 

Chicken,  187. 

Orange,  427. 

Peach  or  apricot,  427. 
Frogs*  legs,  fried,  313. 

h  la  poulette,  313. 
Frosting,      instantaneous, 

245. 
Frozen  desserts,  488. 

Remarks  about,  488. 

FiTiits,  501,  532. 

Punches,  508. 
Fruit  cake,  plain,  472. 

Rich,  473. 
Fruits,  529. 

Remarks  about,  529. 

Bavarian,  401. 

Frozen,  501,  532. 

Ice-creams,  501. 

Jellied,  534. 

Juices,  534. 

"        To  thicken,  389. 

Pudding,  443,  502. 

Salpicon  of,  532. 

"  punch,  533. 

Sauces,  446. 

Syrups,  557. 
Frying,  72. 

To  prepare  articles  for,  75. 

Q 

Galantine  of  turkey,  193. 
Qarnishing,  392. 
Boiled  fish.  114. 


Cakes,  486. 

With  flowers,  398. 
Garnishes  for  soups,  92. 
Gateau  St.  Honor6,  407. 
Gauffres,  479. 
Gelatine,  60,  388. 
Gems,  corn,  354. 

Graham,  237,  354. 
Genoese  cake,  467. 
Giblet  sauce,  185. 
Gingerbread,  soft,  483. 
Ginger  snaps,  481. 
Glac^  oranges  and  grapes, 

516. 
Glaze,  277. 
Gluten  bread,  347. 
Gold  and  silver  cake,  470. 
Golden  buck,  372. 

Cream  toast,  270. 
Goose,  roast,  194. 
Graham  bread,  346. 

Gems,  237,  354. 
Grape  fruit,  530. 
Grapes  glac6,  516. 

Juice,  557. 

Preserved,  539. 

Spiced,  544. 
Grease,     removing     from 
soups,  86. 

Saving,  5L 
Green  peas,  209. 

Cream  of,  106. 

Timbale  of,  for  soups,  94. 
Grilled  bones,  188. 
Grouse,  roasted,  197. 
Gumbo  file,  248. 


H 

Halibut  steaks,  boiled,  119. 

Turkish  style,  120. 

Timbale,  303. 
Ham  boiled,  177. 

Baked,  177. 

And  eggs,  broiled,  178. 

a  I'Aurore,  178. 

Canapes,  368. 

Omelet,  266. 
Hamburg  steaks,  151. 
Hard  sauce,  44S. 
Harlequin  balls,  522. 

Slices  for  soups,  94. 
Hartford  election  cake,  244. 
Hash,  corned  beef,  158. 

B^o^vn,  159. 
Heart,  calf's,  174. 
Hoe  cake,  246. 

No  2,  247. 

Colonial,  237. 
Hollandaise  sauce,  281. 
Home  dinner,  27. 
Homily  on  cooking,  35. 
Hominy  cake,  356. 

Fried,  224. 
Horseradish  sauce,  284. 
Hot  slaw,  214. 


I 


Ices,  508. 

Lemon,  243,  50S. 

Orange,  508. 

Strawbeiry,  508. 
Ice-creams,  488. 

American,  495. 

Angel,  497. 

Caramel,  496,  497. 

Coflfee,  497. 

Chocolate,  496. 

Classification  of,  488. 

Fancy  molding  of,  49L 

Freezing,  490. 

French,  495. 

Fruit,  501. 

General  rules  for  making, 
489. 

Imperatrice,  505. 

Individual,  492,  493. 

Molding,  49L 

Neapolitan,  498. 

Nesselrode,  499. 

Nut,  502. 

Ornamental,  493. 

Packing,  490. 

Philadelphia,  494. 

Pistachio,  498. 

Plum  pudding  glac6, 590. 

Rice,  498. 

Tutti  frutti,  50L 

Vanilla,  494. 
Iced  tea,  550. 
Icing,  boiled,  484. 

Chocolate,  484,  485. 

Coffee  for  Eclairs,  485. 

Fondant,  485. 

Eoyal,  483. 
"      with     confectioners' 
sugar,  484. 

For  small  cakes,  485. 

And  decorating  cakes,  483. 
Indian  bread,  236. 

Pudding,  240,  241,  443. 
Individual  salads,  383. 
Inside  flank  of  beef,  153. 
Irish  stew,  165. 
Italian  cream,  401. 

JeUy,  418. 

Meringue,  496. 


Jams,  541. 

Jam  omelet,  425. 

Jellied  chicken,  182. 

Fruit,  534. 

Fruits  (Pain   aux   fruits), 
419. 

Tongue,  175. 

Veal,  171. 
Jellies,  412,  543. 
Jelly  rolls,  468. 
Jelly,  to  clarify,  413. 

Apple,  544. 

Aspic,  321. 

BeiTj'  design  for  mold,  326. 


570 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX 


Jelly. 

Coffee,  416. 

Cold,  sauce,  449. 

Crab-apple,  644. 

Cranberry  244. 

Champagne,  416. 

«        with  flowers,  4iew 

Currant,  543. 

Daisy  design  for  mold,  326. 

Dantzic,  418. 

Decorations  for  meat^  326. 

Dissolving,  412. 

Italian,  41& 

Lemon,  415. 

MacMoine,  417. 

Molding  fancy,  824,  413. 

Orange,  415. 

Points  to  observe  in  mak> 
ing,  412. 

Plum  padding,  399. 

Proportions  for,  413. 

Prune,  243. 

Quince,  644. 

Ribbon,  418. 

KoUa,  468. 

Bussian,  417. 

Sauce,  449,  287. 

Serving,  414. 

Wine,  415. 

With   fruits    (macMoineX 
417. 

What  to  do  with  left  over, 
418. 

Whipped.  417. 

White  or  blancmange,  399. 

Unmolding,  324. 
Johnny  cake,  237. 
Julienne  soup,  89. 
Jumbles,  480. 


Kidneys,  stewed,  173. 
Kisses,  475. 
Kneading  bread,  342. 
Koumiss,  558. 


Lady  fingers,  476. 
LallaRookh,509. 
Lamb,  spring,  167. 
Larding,  76. 
Layer  cakes,  468. 
Lemonade,  554. 
Lemon  ice,  243,  508. 

JeUy,  415. 

Sugar,  391. 

Syrup,  39L 
Lettuce  salad,  376. 

Stewed,  219. 
Lima  beans,  210. 
Little  pound  cakes,  478. 
Liver  and  bacon,  172. 

Braised,  172. 

Broiled,  172. 

Loaf  or  false  p&t^  de  foie 
gras,  308. 

Saut^  256. 


Livers,  chicken,  309,  333. 
Loaf  of  chicken,  191. 

Liver,  308. 

Veal,  171. 
Lobster,  136. 

To  bake,  137. 

To  boil,  13& 

To  broU,  137. 

To  kill,  138. 

To  open,  137. 

k  la  Kewburg,  1S9. 

Bisque  of,  109. 

Butter,  109. 

Chops,  138. 

Farci,  138. 

Filling  for  patties,  140. 

Freshness  of,  136. 

Salad,  382. 

Salpicon  of,  140. 

Sauce,  279. 

Season  of,  136. 

Stew,  140. 

Stewed,  232. 
Luncheon,  31. 
Luncheon    and    tea-rolls, 
351. 

M 

Macaroni,  224. 

k  la  Albi,  236. 

au  gratiu,  226. 

Baked  with  cheese,  225. 

Mrs.  Maspero,  226. 

With  tomato  or  other  sauce, 
225. 

With  minced  meat,  226. 

Tlmbale,  302. 
"       Honeycomb,  302. 

Sauce  for,  226. 
"  No.  2,  226. 

"  No.  3,  223. 

Soap,  89. 
Macaroons,  477. 
Mac^doine  jelly,  417. 

Salad,  378. 

Of  v^etables,  216. 
Mackerel,  salt,  127. 

Creamed,  127. 
Madeleines,  No.  1,  477. 

No.  2,  47a 
Miitre  d'hotel  sauce,  286. 
Marble  cake,  470. 
Marinate,  to,  79, 374. 
Marmalade,  541. 

Apple;  543. 

Orange,  542. 

Quince,  542. 
Marrow  balls,  94. 

Bones,  159. 
Matrons,  pain  de,  420. 

Glac6,  521. 
Marshmallows,  521. 
Mayonnaise,  288,  375. 

Arrowroot,  290. 

Green,  289. 

Jelly,  290. 

Red,  290. 

White,  289. 

Of  chicken,  192. 


Measuring,  77. 
Meats.  52,  145. 

Cooking,  145. 

Cleaning,  145. 

General  remarks  aboat,  liS. 

Juices  of,  145. 

Piercing,  146. 

Scalloped,  151. 

Sandwiches,  364. 

Seasoning,  145. 
Menus,  luncheon,  31. 

Inejtpensive     dinners,    47, 
352. 
Meringues,  475. 
Meringue  sauce,  448. 

To  sweeten,  389. 
Mignon  fillets,  157. 
Milk,  54,  58,  63. 

Bread,  345. 

When  scalded,  389. 

Punch,  557. 

Toast,  348. 

Shake,  557. 

Sterilized,  257. 
Millefeuilles,  46L 
Mince  pie,  454. 
Mint  sauce,  287. 
Miscellaneous  receipts,  257. 
Mixing  liquidsand  solids, 59. 
Mock  oysters,  220. 
Mock  turtle  soup,  103. 
Molasses  cake,  483. 

Candy,  527. 

Pie,  242. 

Wafers,  482. 
Molding,  389. 

Articles  to  fry,  76. 

Fancy,  413. 

Jellies,  323. 

Ice-creams,  491. 
Molds.  60. 

Double,  325. 

To  ornament,  324. 
Moselle  cup,  555. 
Mousses,  506. 

Fruit,  507. 

Golden,  507. 
Muffins,  355. 

English,  355. 

Raised,  355. 
Mushrooms,  remarks  about, 
45.  314. 

Cooking,  316. 

k  la  poulette,  320. 

Agarious  campestris,  317. 
"        procerus,  318. 
"       russula,  318. 
Boleti,  318. 

Coprinus  comatus,  318. 
"  atramentarius, 

318. 

Clavaria,  319. 

Hydnuni  caput  Meduss,  319. 

Puff  balls,  319. 

Marasmius  oreades,  317. 

Scalloped,  320. 

Sauce,  286. 

To  dry,  320. 
Mustard  sauce,  285. 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX 


571 


Mutton,  remarks  about,  160. 
Boiled,  163. 
Breast  of,  255. 
Broth,  95. 
Chops,  165. 

"       in  paper  cases,  166. 
k  la  Maintenon,  167. 
Leg  of,  162. 
Loin  of,  162. 
Ragout  of,  164. 

"       cold  boiled,  165. 
Rechauff6  of,  234. 
Rolled  loin  of,  162. 
Saddle  of,  162. 
Sboulder  of,  stuffed,  163. 

N 

Nasturtium  pickle,  547. 
Neapolitan  ice-cream,  498. 

Squares,  523. 
Nesseirode  pudding,  499. 
Noodles,  93. 

Balls,  93. 

To  sei've  as  vegetables,  93. 

Soup,  89. 
Nougat,  518. 

For  bonbons,  518. 
"    molding,  519. 

Soft  white,  519. 
Nuts,  532. 

Carameled,  526. 

Creams,  523. 

Ice-creams,  502. 

Salted,  533. 

o 

Oat  cake,  356. 
Oatmeal,  creamed,  238. 

Porridge,  227. 
Olives,  to  stone,  78. 
Olive  sauce,  285. 
Omelets,  264. 

aux  fins  herbes,  263. 

Beaten,  266. 

Green,  266. 

Ham,  266. 

Jam,  425. 

Orange,  425. 

Plain  French,  264. 

Potato,  203. 

^^'ith  peas  and  tomatoes,  268. 

Rum,  426. 

Variations  of,  265. 

Souffle,  422. 

Spanish,  274. 
Onions,  219. 

Juice,  59. 
"       how  to  extract,  78. 

Soup,  105. 

Spanish,  staffed,  219. 
Orangeade,  554. 
Oranges,  530. 

Glac6,  56. 
Orange  cake,  469. 

Compote  of,  536. 

Fritters,  427. 

Ice,  508. 


Indian  pudding,  241. 

Jelly,  415. 

Juice,  534. 

Marmalade,  541. 

Omelet,  425. 

Or  lemon  peel  candled,  391, 

527. 
Pie,  453. 
Salad,  382. 
Sugar,  391. 
Syrup,  391. 
pain  d',  420. 
Oysters,  131. 
a  la  poulette,  133. 

"    Villeroi,  132. 
Broiled,  132. 
Browned,  231. 
Cooldng,  131. 

"   •     in  chafing-dish,  233. 
Crabs,  143,  310. 

"       entree  of,  310. 
Cases,  308. 
Creamed,  331. 
Cream  of,  108. 
Filling  for  patties,  134. 
And  fish,  231. 
Fried,  132. 
Fricassee,  232. 
Mocli,  220. 
Panned,  133,  33L 
Pickled,  232. 
Raw,  131. 
Roasted,  133. 
Salad,  383. 
Sauce,  279. 
Soup,  104. 
Scalloped,  134,  23L 
Stew,  331. 
Oxtail  soup,  99. 
Ovens,  63. 


Panada,  bread,  298. 

Flour,  298. 
Pancakes,  remarks    about, 
361. 

Adirondack,  363. 

Bread,  362. 

Buckwheat,  363. 

Cornmeal,  363. 

Plain,  362. 

Rice,  362. 

Sweet,  426. 
Pans,  bread,  344. 

Cake,  463,  464. 
Panned  oysters,  133,  331. 
Pain  aux  fruits,  419. 

de  fraises,  419. 

d'oranges,  420. 

de  pSches,  420. 

de  marrons,  420. 

de  riz  aux  fruits,  419. 
"        k  la  princesse,  419. 

de  volaQle,  300. 
Parched  rice,  223. 
Parfaits,  489. 

General  rules  for  making, 
502. 


Angel,  505. 

au  caf^  and  pralin^,  504. 

Of  cliestnuts,  506. 

Maple,  504. 

Vanilla,  503. 
Parker  House  rolls,  351. 
Parsnips,  218. 

Partridges,  roasted,  broil- 
ed, 199. 
Pastry,  451. 

Plain,  239,  451. 

For  tarts,  452. 

To  glaze,  461. 

Timbale,  303. 
Pat6  de  foie  gras  en  belle< 

vue,  384. 
P£t£  shells,  460. 
Patties,  305. 
Pea  soup,  102,  229. 
Peaches,  530. 

Compote  of,  536. 
Peach=leaf  flavor,  39L 

Fritters,  427. 

Frozen,  501,  532. 

Pickled,  sweet,  545. 

Preserved,  537. 

Pudding,  241. 
Peanut  candy,  527. 
Peanuts,  532. 
Pears,  stewed,  244. 

Preserved,  538. 
Peppermint  creams,  525. 

Drops,  526. 
Peppers,  stuffed,  215. 
Philadelphia  ice-cream, 494. 
Pickled  oysters,  232. 
Pickles,  545. 

Cliow-cliow,  546. 

Cucumber  or  gherkins,  545. 

Green  tomato,  546. 

Nasturtiums,  547. 

Peaches,  545. 

Plums,  545. 

Walnuts,  545. 
Pies,  450. 

Apple,  454. 

Beef,  152. 

Beefsteak,  235. 

Chicken,  192. 

Cocoanut,  456. 

Cranberry,  456. 

Cream,  455. 

Mince  mixture,  454. 

Molasses,  242. 

Orange,  453. 

Plain  apple,  454. 
"         pastry  for,  239,  451. 

Pumpkin,  239,  454. 

Squash,  238. 

Tart,  452. 

Washington ,  457. 
Pigeons,  potted,  197. 

Roasted,  197. 
Pineapple  canapes,  336. 

Sauce,  447. 
Pine  cones,  411. 
Piquante  sauce,  283. 
Pistachio  cake,  469. 

Flavor,  391. 

Ice-cream,  498. 


572 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX 


Plain  pudding:  sauces,  444, 

445. 
Plum  pudding,  437. 
Jelly,  399. 
Glac6,  500. 
Sauce  for,  501. 
Plum  sauce  for  meats,  444. 
Polenta,  227. 
Pone,  246. 
Poric,  176. 
And  beans,  217,  234. 
Chops,  177. 
Roast,  176. 
Pot-pie,  169. 
Potatoes,  baked,  204. 
Baked  with  meat>  204. 
Balls,  203. 

fried,  205. 
Boiled,  201. 
Bread,  345. 
Broiled,  204. 
Cakes,  201. 
Casserole,  327. 
Chowder,  110. 
Creamed,  203. 
Croquettes,  202. 
And  flsh  tiuibale,  304. 
Fried,  205. 
Lyonnaise,  204. 
Mashed,  201. 
Omelet,  203. 
Puffed,  206. 
Bice,  202. 
Roses,  202. 
Salad,  378. 
Saratoga,  205. 
Souffle,  202. 
Soup,  105. 
Straws,  205. 
Stuffed,  204. 
Supports   for    hot  meats, 

328. 
Sweet»  206. 

»        baked,  206. 
"       browned,  206. 
'*       Croquettes,  207. 
"       Puree  of,  207. 
Poulette  sauce,  280. 
Poultry  and  game,  179. 
To  clean  and  draw,  180. 
Pound  cake,  471. 
Pound  cakes,  small,  478, 
Prairiechicken  and  grouse, 

197. 
Praline  powder,  505. 
Preserved  citron,  540. 
Grapes,  539. 
Peaches,  537. 

"       brandied,  643. 
Pears,  538. 
Plums,  538. 
Raspberries,  540. 
Strawberries,  639. 

No.  2,  540. 
Preserving,  537. 
Printaniere  soup,  89. 
Prune  jelly,  243. 
Souffld,  423. 


Pudding  batter,  428. 
Beefsteak,  251. 
Bermuda,  242. 
Blueberry,  24L 
Bread,  434. 

"       and  butter,  434. 
Brown  Betty,  429. 
Cabinet,  438. 

No.  2,  439, 
"        No.  3  (Royal),  439. 
"        No.  4,  440. 
Canary,  436. 
Chocolate,  398. 
Cherry  bread,  241. 
Cocoanut,  398. 
Cottage,  436. 
Cornstarch,  897. 
Diplomatic,  403. 
Fig,  438. 
Fish,  123. 
Fruit,  443. 
Indian,  240,  241,  448. 
Peach,  241. 
Plum,  437. 

"        glac6, 69a 
Rice,  plain,  433. 

"      and  marmalade,  242. 
Roly-poly,  443. 
Snow  apple,  429. 
Suet,  436. 
Tapioca,  433. 
Yorkshire,  147. 
Puffs  or  j)op-over8,  354. 
Puff  paste,  457. 
Rules  for,  457. 
Receipt  for,  458. 
Pulled  bread,  349. 
Pumpkin  pie,  239,  454. 
Punch,     frozen,     general 
rules,  for,  508. 
Coffee,  509. 
Milk,  557. 
Salpicon  of  fruit,  533. 

"  of   California 

cherries,  534. 
Pur6e  of  beans,  217. 
Chestnuts,  185,  215. 
Chicken,  310. 
Fruit  sauce,  447. 


Quails  broiled,  192. 

Boasted,  198. 
Quenelles,  300. 

Forcemeat,  298. 
Quick  aspic,  322. 
Quinces,  baked,  532. 

Jelly,  544. 

Marmalade,  542. 


RagoQt  of  beef,  153. 

Of  mutton,  164. 
Raisins,  60, 389. 
Range,  63. 


Raspberry  vinegar,  558. 

Preserve,  640. 
Raw  beef  sandwiches,  367. 

Oysters,  131. 
Rechauffe  of  mutton,  234. 
Redhead  ducks,  196. 
Refrigerator,  62. 
Rennet  custard,  397. 
Rhode  Island  Johnny  cake, 

237. 
Ribbon  jelly,  418 
Rice,  to  boil,  222. 
Southern  way   of   boiling, 

248. 
Bavarian,  402. 
Ice-cream,  498. 
Pancakes,  362. 
Parched,  223. 
Pudding  No.  1,  433. 
No.  2,  433. 
Lemon  rice-puddiug,  242. 
And  marmalade   pudding, 

242. 
And  raisins,  434. 
Pudding  glac6,  505. 
And  tomatoes,  223. 
Rich  pudding  sauce,  445. 
Richelieu  sauce,  448. 
Rissotto,  227. 
Rissoles,  305. 
Roast  beef,  146. 

Cold,  151. 
Roasted  oysters,  133. 
Roasting,  70. 

Rolled  loin  of  mutton,  162. 
Rolls,  baking,  344. 
Bread,  349. 
Cleft,  351. 

Lunclieon  and  tea,  361. 
Parker  House,  351. 
Roly-poly  pudding,  443. 
Rose  sugar,  391. 
Roux,  to  make,  79. 
Royal  icing,  483. 
Roy  ale,  92. 
Rum  omelet,  426. 

Sauce,  445. 
Rusks,  357. 
Dried,  358. 
Russian  jellies,  417. 
Salad,  383. 
Bowls,  329. 


Sabayon  sauces,  446. 
Saddle  of  mutton,  162. 
5alads,      general     remarks 
about,  373. 
Aspic  of  pftt^  en  bellevue, 
384. 

"    with  walnuts,  384. 
Bean,  377. 
Bird's  nest,  38&. 
Bouilli,  383. 
Cauliflower,  377. 
Celery,  876. 

"       and  walnut,  88L 
Chicken,  235,  382. 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX 


573 


Salads. 

Cold  slaw,  378. 
Cucumber,  377. 

"  and  tomato,  377. 

Egg,  No.  1,  881. 
"    No.  2,  381. 
French  dressing  for,  376. 
Hot  slaw,  379. 
Lettuce,  376. 
Lobster,  382. 
Mac^doiue,  378. 
Mayonnaise    dressing    for, 

288,  290,  375. 
To  marinate,  374. 
Orange,  382. 
Oyster,  383. 
Potato,  378. 
Busaian,  383. 

"       Individual,  383. 
Sandwiches,  366. 
String  bean,  377. 
Sweetbreads    with    celery, 

381. 
Tomato  No.  1,  379. 
"         and  egg,  380. 
"         jelly,  380. 
"  "        molded,  380. 

Tomato  stuffed,  S80. 
Water  cress  and  apples,  376. 
Sally  lunn,  355. 
Salmi  of  duck  or  game,  196. 
Salmon,  128. 
Broiled  slices  of,  129. 
Canned,  129. 
Cutlets,  129. 
Fillets  for  green  luncheon, 

130. 
Slices  with  mayonnaise,  129. 
Salpicon,  80,  299. 
Of  fruits,  532. 
Punch,  533. 
Lobster,  140. 
Salt  codfish,  127. 

Mackerel,  127. 
Salted  nuts,  533. 
Sandwiches,  remarks  about, 
364. 
Shapes  of,  364. 
How  to  prepare  meat  for, 

364. 
How  to  prepare  bread  for, 

865. 
Butter,  33. 
Cheese,  367. 
Egg,  866. 
Fish,  366. 
Meat,  365. 
Baw  beef,  367. 
Bolls,  365. 
Salad,  366. 
Spanish,  367. 
Sweet,  367. 
Sardine  carvap^s,  368. 
Sardines,  broiled,  128. 
Sauces  for  meats,  375. 
Sauces  for  sweet  puddings, 

444. 
Sauces  for  cold  sweet  des> 
serts,  393. 


Sauces  for  macaroni,  ris- 

sotto,  226. 
Sauces     for    boiled    fish, 

kinds  of,  114. 
Sauces,  375. 
General  directions  for,  275. 
Agra  dolce,  291. 
AUemande,  279. 
Apple,  288. 
B6arnaise,  288. 
Bechamel,  279. 
Beurre  Noir  or  Brown  But- 
ter, 291. 
Bread,  287. 
Brown,  282. 
Caper,  279. 
Celery,  279. 
Champagne,  283. 
Chaudfroid,  281. 
Cranberry,  287. 
Curry,  284. 
Egg,  278. 
Espagnole,  282. 
For  mixing  croquettes,  293. 

"    macaroni,  223,  226. 
Giblet,  185. 
Glaze,  277. 
Hollandaise,  281. 
Horseradish,  284. 
Jelly,  287. 
Lobster,  279. 
maitre  d'hdtel,  286. 
Mayonnaise,  288. 

"    with  arrowroot,  290. 

"  green,  289. 

"  jelly,  290. 

"  red,  290. 

"  white,  289. 

Mint,  287. 
Mushroom,  286. 
Mustard,  284. 
Olive,  285. 
Oyster,  279. 
Piquante,  283. 
Poulette,  280. 
Rous  for,  277. 
Soubise,  284. 
Tartare,  290. 
Tomato,  285. 
Velout6,  279. 
VlUeroi,  280. 
White,  277. 
«        for  flsh,  278. 
Puddingsauces,  sweet,  444. 
Sauce,  apricot,  446. 
Bischoff,  447. 
Brandy,  rum,  kirsch,  445. 
Cocoanut,  449. 
Cold  jelly,  449. 
Chocolate,  447. 
Custard,  447. 
Foamy,  445. 
Fruit,  446. 

"       pur^e  of,  447. 
Hard,  448. 
Meringue,  448. 
Pineapple,  447. 
Plain  pudding,  No.  1  OiotX 
444. 


Plain  pudding.  No.  2  (cold), 
445. 

Bich  pudding,  446. 

Richelieu,  448. 

Sabayon,  No.  1,  446. 
"        No.  2,  446. 

Strawberry,  449. 

Syrup,  446. 

For  plum  pudding  glac^,501. 
Saratoga  potatoes,  205. 
Sauteing,  72. 
Savarins,  440. 
Scalloped  fish,  120. 

Mea^  151. 

Mushrooms,  320. 

Oysters,  231. 

Tomatoes,  207. 

Veal,  172. 
Scallops,  136. 
Scotch  broth,  252. 
Scrambled  eggs,  264. 
Seasoning,  80. 

Meats,  145. 
Serving  boiled  fish,  114. 

Dinners,  10. 
"  the  informal,  29. 

Jellies,  414. 

Wines,  56a 
Shad,  125. 

Planked,  125. 

Spiced,  233. 

Boe,  broiled,  126. 
"       croquettes.  No.  1, 126. 
"  "  No.  2,  126. 

Shell  fish,  131. 
Sherbets,  508. 

General     remarks     about, 
508. 
Shirred  eggs,  266. 
Shin  of  beef,  250. 
Shortcake,  currant,  442. 

StrawbeiTy,  443, 
Shrimps,  croustade  of,  130. 
Smelts  k  la  Toulouse,  334. 

Broiled,  118. 

To  fry,  117. 

Fried  on  skewers,  118. 
Snipe,  198. 

Snow  apple  pudding,  429. 
Snow  pudding,  417. 
Soap,  to  make,  259. 
Socles,  326. 

Of  rice,  827. 
Soubise  sauce,  284. 
Souffles,  421. 

Apple,  424. 

Cheese,  370. 

Chicken,  190. 

Chocolate,  423. 

Omelet,  422. 

Potato,  202. 

Prune,  423. 

Spinach,  211. 

Vanilla,  422. 
Soup,  general  directions  for, 

Meats,  85. 
Vegetables,  85. 
Inexpensive,  256. 


574 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX 


Garnishes  for  Soup,  90,  92. 

Forcemeat  balls,  92. 
Egg  balls,  92. 
Green  pea  timbale,  94. 
Harlequin  slices,  94. 
Marrow  balls,  94. 
NooiUes,  93. 

"       balls,  93. 
Sweet  potato  b.alls,  94. 
Soup,  bean,  102. 
Black  bean,  102,  22a 
Bouillon,  97. 
Calf's  head  or  mock  turtle, 

103. 
Chicken,  100. 

"       consomm6,  100. 
Clam,  104,  230. 
Croftte  au  pot,  90. 
Fish  stock  and,  103. 
Julienne,  89. 
Lobster  bisque,  109. 

"       butter  for,  109. 
Macaroni,  89. 
Noodle,  89. 
Onion,  105. 
Oyster,  104. 
Ox-tail,  99. 
Pea,  102,  229. 
Potato,  105. 
Tapioca,  90. 
Tomato  bisque,  106. 

"       pur6e,  101. 
Vegetable,  89. 

"         or  printanifere,  89. 
Vermicelli,  89. 
White,  99. 
Broths,  95. 
Clam,  95. 
Chicken,  95. 
Mutton,  95. 

Made  quickly   for  inva- 
lids, 96. 
Chowders,  110. 
Potato,  110. 
Clam,  111,  230. 
Fish,  110,  230. 
Soups,  cream,  105. 

"      asparagus,  106. 
"      celery,  106. 
"     clams,  107. 
"      com,  107. 
"     green  peas,  106. 
"      oysters,  108. 
Spinach,  166. 
String  beans,  106. 
"    k  la  reine,  108. 
Southern  dishes,  246. 
Spaghetti,  225. 
Spanish  omelet,  274. 
Spanish  Sandwiches,  367. 
Spiced  Grapes,  544 
Spinach,  210. 
Chartreuse  of,  211. 
Souffle,  211. 
Sponge,  to  malce  bread ,  342. 
Sponge  cake ,  Nos.  1, 2 , 3. 466. 
"       white,  467. 
"       mixing,  465. 
Spring  lamb,  1C7. 


Squabs,  197. 
Squash,  218. 

"      Pie,  238. 
Starch  molds  for  candies, 

525. 
Steaks,  Hamburg,  151. 
Stew,  Irish,  165. 
Stewed  figs,  53L 
"      pears,  244. 
"     kidneys,  173. 
' '      lobster,  232. 
"      oysters,  331. 
Sterilized  Milk,  257. 
Sticks,  bread,  357. 
"       cheese,  369. 
Stock,  soup,  84. 
"  "     brown,  88. 

«  "     white,  99. 

Strawberries,  530. 
Strawberry  Cake,  443. 
Charlotte,  406. 
Shortcake,  442. 
Preserved,  539,  640. 
Suprfeme  of,  419. 
Sauce,  449. 
Ice,  508. 
Icecream,  501. 
Stirring,  78. 
Store-closet,  55,  394. 
Strainers,  60. 
String  beans,  209. 
"      salad,  377. 
Stuffing  for  baked  fish,  116. 
"         "  Boned       fowls, 
183. 

"  fowls,  184. 
chestnut,  185. 
Stuffed  chicken  legs,  188. 
Cucumbers,  218. 
Eggs,  271,  272. 
Egg-plant,  215. 
Mushrooms,  309. 
Peppers,  215. 
Potatoes,  204. 
Shoulder  of  mutton ,  163. 

"  veal,  168. 
Spanish  onions,  219. 
Tomatoes,  207. 
Succotash,  220. 
Suet,  to  try  out,  74. 
Chopping,  59. 
Pudding,  436. 
Sugar  and  its  uses,  510. 
Boiling,  510. 

"       degrees  of,  512. 
Colored  for  garnishing,  393. 
"        how  to  make,  393. 
Creams,  524. 
Spun,  515. 
"      directions  for  mak- 
ing, 515. 
Syrup,  503. 
Syrups,  513. 
Sugared  Almonds.  520. 
Sunshine  Cake,  467. 
Supply  closet,  62. 
Supports  for  hot  meats,  328. 
Sweetbreads,   to   prepare, 
305. 


k  la  ponlette,  806. 

Baked,  306. 

Braised,  306. 

Chaudfroid  of,  806. 

Fried,  306. 

Salad,  381. 

Saut6d,  306. 
Sweet  pancakes,  426. 
Sweet  potatoes,  baked,  206. 

balls  for  soup,  94. 

boiled,  206. 

browned,  206. 

cvoquette? ,  207. 

Pur6e  of,  207. 
Sweet  sandwiches,  367. 
Swedish  cabbage,  213. 
Syrups,  fruit,  557. 

sauce,  446. 

sugar,  503, 613. 


Table,  laying  the,  13. 

Time,  inside  of  cover. 

Weights  and  measures,  887. 
Taffy,  527. 
Tapioca,  Soup,  90. 

and  apples,  252. 

Pudding,  433. 
Tartare  sauce,  290. 
Tart  bands,  400. 

bread ,  4.S5. 

Pies,  452. 
Tartlets,  461. 

Paganini,  461. 
Tea,  549. 

Five  o'clock,  31. 

Iced,  550. 

Biscuits,  352. 
"  with    sour  milk, 

352. 
Terrapin,  311. 

k  la  Newburg,  3ia 

General  rules  about,  312. 

Maryland  style,  313. 

False,  308. 
Thickening  for  soup,  90. 
Things  to  remember,  58. 
Timbales,  296. 

To  mold  and  cook,  298. 

Fish,  123. 

Halibut,  303. 

Honeycomb,  302. 

Macaroni,  302. 

of  brioche,  361. 

Pastry,  303. 

Potato  and  fish,  804. 
Toast,  348. 

milk,  348. 
Tomato  bisque,  106. 

broiled,  208. 

Farci,  208. 

JeUy,  380. 

Purde,  101. 

Roasted,  208, 

Salads,  379,  38a 

Sauce,  285. 

Scalloped,  207. 

Stewed,  207. 


ALPHABETICAIi  INDEX 


575 


Tomato. 

Stuffed,  207. 
"       with  eggs,  380. 

and  rice,  223. 
Tongue,  beef,  174. 

cold,  175. 

Hot  sliced,  174. 

Jellied,  175. 
Trifle,  411. 

Banana,  412. 
Tripe,  173. 
Truffles,  296. 

To  decorate  with,  326. 
Turkey,  193. 

Boned,  193. 

Galantine,  193. 
Turnips,  160.  216. 
TuttiFrutti,501. 

u 

Uses  for  stale  cake,  411. 
Utensils,  care  of,  61. 

For  desserts,  386. 


Vanilla  souffle,  422. 

Ice-cream,  494. 

Sugar,  391. 
Veal,  168. 


Cutlets,  169. 

Fricandeau,  169. 

Jellied,  171. 

Loaf,  171. 

Roast  fillet  of,  168. 

Scallop,  172. 

Stuffed  shoulder  of,  168. 

With  white  sauce,  253. 
Vegetables,  general  remarks 

about,  200. 

Soup,  101. 

for  soup,  85. 

Mac^doine  of,  216. 
Veloute  sauce,  279. 
Venetian  cakes,  479. 
Venison,  199. 

"        steak,  199. 
Vermicelli  soup,  89. 
Villeroi  sauce,  280. 
Vol-au-vent,  304. 

w 

Wafers,  molasses,  482. 
Waffles,  356. 
Walnuts,  pickled,  545. 

:6nglish,  salted,  533. 
Warren's  Cake,  482. 
Washington  Pie,  457. 
Wastefulness,  50. 
Water,  548. 


Water-cress  salad,  376. 
Water-ices,  508. 
Weights  and  measures,  387. 
Welsh  rabbit.  371, 
Wheat,  cracked,  228. 

Whole,  bread,  346. 
Whips,  409. 
Whipped  Cream,  408. 

Jelly,  417. 
Whitebait,  118. 
White  cake,  471. 

Jelly,  399. 

Soup,  99. 

Stock,  99. 
Wines,  serving,  560. 
Wine  jelly,  415. 
Woodcock,  198. 
Wooden  spoons,  330. 


Yeast,  338. 

Remarks  about,  338. 

Dick  Bennet's,  339. 

Receipt  No.  2,  339. 
Yorkshire  Pudding,  147. 


Zephyrs,  238. 
Zwieback,  349. 


GENERAL  INDEX 


PART  L 

Dinner-giving  and  tbe  etiquette  of  din- 
ners, 1. 
Manner  of  serving  dinners,  10. 
Laying  the  table,  13. 
Table  decoration,  17. 
Courses,  24. 
Tlie  home  dinner,  27. 
Serving  the  informal  dinner,  29. 
Luncheon,  31. 
The  five  o'clock  tea,  33. 
A  homily  on  cooking,  35. 
Cooking  as  a  pleasure  and  an  accom- 
plishment, 38. 
To  train  a  gi-een  coolc ,  40. 
Economical  living,  44. 
Mushrooms,  45,  314. 
Menus.    "  Al  Fresco  "  dinner,  23. 
"  Luncheon,  31. 

"         Economical  living,  47,  252. 
Wastefulness,  50. 

How  to  utilize  what  some  cooks  throw 
away,  51. 

Bread,  51. 

Fat,  51. 

Bones,  51. 

Tough  pieces,  62. 

Small  pieces,  62. 

Cold  meats,  52. 

Eggs,  52. 

General  odds  and  ends,  53. 

Cereals,  53. 

Vegetables,  33. 

Soiir  milk,  54. 

Fruits,  54. 

Cheese,  54. 
Emergencies,  55. 


Things  to  Bemember. 

Items  about 

Eggs,  58. 
Milk,  68. 
Butter,  58. 
Crumbs,  58. 
Meats,  59. 
Drippings,  59. 
Onion  juice,  69. 
Chopping  suet,  69. 

"         almonds,  59. 
Mixing  liquids  and  solids  together,  69. 
Gelatine.  60. 
Molds,  60. 
Strainers,  60. 
To  keep  4ishes  warm,  60. 
Flavoring,  60. 


Raisins,  60. 
Baking,  60. 
Utensils,  care  of,  61. 

"         cleaning,  61. 
Tins,  sieves,  woodenware,  62. 
Tins,  arrangement  of,  62. 
Supply  closet,  62. 
Refrigerator,  62, 
Coal  and  range,  63. 
Ovens,  63. 


PART  IL 

CHAPTER  I. 

Methods  of  Cooking  Explained. 

Boiling,  67. 
Baking,  69. 
Roasting,  70. 
Broiling,  70. 
Braising,  71. 
Fricasseeing,  71. 
Sautding.  72. 
Frying,  72. 
To  clarify  fat,  74. 
To  try  out  suet  and  other  fats,  74. 
To  prepare  articles  for  frying  by  cover- 
ing them  with  egg  and  crumbs,  75. 
The  crumbs,  75. 
The  egg,  75. 
The  molding,  76. 
Larding,  76. 
Daubinff,  76. 
Boning,  77. 
Measuring,  77. 
Stirring  and  beating,  78. 
How  to  stone  olives,  78. 
How  to  cut  bacon,  78. 
How  to  extract  onion  juice,  78. 
Cai-amel,  78. 
To  make  roux,  79. 
To  marinate,  79. 
Salpicon,  80. 

Seasoning  and  flavoring,  80. 
Croiitons'and  croustades,  81. 
Chartreuse,  83. 


CHAPTER  n. 

Soups. 

General  directions  for  preparing  soups. 
including  directions  for 
Brown  stock,  84,  88. 
White  stock,  84, 99. 


676 


GENEEAL  INDEX 


577 


General  directions  for  preparing  soups. 
Cliicken  conaonun6, 100. 
Cream  soups,  85, 103. 
Soup  meats,  86. 

"     vegetables,  85. 
The  bouquet,  85. 
Proportions,  85. 
Tbe  order  of  preparation,  85. 
Removing  the  grease,  86. 
Clarifying,  86. 
Coloring,  87. 
Meat  stock,  87. 

Common  stooli  (pot  au  feu),  87. 
Beef  or  brown  stock,  88. 
Macaroni  soup,  89. 
Noodle  soup,  89. 
Vermicelli  soup,  89. 
Vegetable  or  printani^re  soup,  89. 
Julienne  soup,  89. 
Tapioca  soup,  90. 
Create  au  pot,  90. 
Garnishes  for  soup,  90. 
Thickening  for  soup,  90. 
Garnishes  for  soups,  92. 

Koyale,  92. 

Forcemeat  balls,  92. 

Egg,  92. 

Egg  balls,  92. 

Noodles,  93. 

"       to  serve  as  a  vegetable,  93. 

Noodle  balls.  93. 

Marrow  balls,  94. 

Sweet  potato  balls,  94. 

Green  pea  timbale,  94. 

Harlequin  slices,  94. 


BrotTis. 

Chicken  broth,  95. 

Clam  broth,  95. 

Mutton  broth,  95. 

Broth  made  quickly  for  invalids,  96. 


Soups. 

Bouillon,  97. 

Consomm^,  98. 

Ox-tail  soup,  99. 

White  stock,  99. 

White  soup,  99. 

Chicken  consomm^,  100. 

Plain  chicken  soup,  100. 

Vegetable  soup,  101. 

Tomato  pur^e,  101. 

Split-pea  or  bean  soup,  102. 

Black  bean  soup,  102. 

Calf  s  head  or  mock  turtle,  103. 

Fish  stock,  103. 

Oyster  soup,  104. 

Clam  soup,  104. 


Cream  Soups. 


Onion  soup,  105. 
Potato  soup,  105. 
Tomato  bisque,  106. 

37 


Cream  of  asparagus,  106. 

Green  peas,  106. 

String  beans,  106. 

Spinach,  106. 

Corn,  106. 

Celery,  106. 

Clams,  107. 

Oysters,  108. 
Soup  h  la  reine,  108. 
Bisque  of  lobster,  109. 
Lobster  butter,  109. 


Chowders. 

Potato  chowder,  110. 
Fish  chowder,  110. 
Clam  chowder.  111. 


CHAPTER  IIL 

Fish. 

Cooking,  112. 

Freshness,  112. 

Dressing,  112. 

Keeping,  112. 

Frozen  fish,  112. 

Trimming,  112. 

The  bones,  112. 

To  skin,  bone,  and  remove  flllets,  lia. 

To  carve,  113. 

To  boil,  113. 

Time  to  boil,  113. 

The  kettle,  113. 

To  boil  a  flsh  whole,  114. 

Serving  boiled  fish,  114. 

Garnishing  boiled  flsh,  114. 

Sauces  used  for  boiled  flsh,  114. 

Court  bouillon,  115. 

Baked  flsh,  115. 

Stuffings  for  baked  fish,  116. 

To  broil  flsh,  116. 

To  saut6  flsh,  117. 

To  fry  fish,  117. 

To  fry  smelts,  117. 

Fried  smelts  on  skewers,  118. 

Pried  flllets  of  flsh,  118. 

Smelts  broiled,  118. 

Whitebait,  118. 

Boiled  halibut  steaks,  119. 

Halibut,  Turkish  style,  120. 

Scalloped  flsh,  120. 

Au  gratin,  121. 
Fish  chops,  121. 
FiUets  baked  with  custard  or  tomatoes 

122. 
Cold'flsh,  123. 
Fish  pudding,  123. 
Fish  timbale,  123. 
Fish  dish  for  pink  luncheon,  124. 
KoUed  flllets  of  flounder,  125. 
Shad,  125. 
Planked  shad,  125. 
Broiled  shad  roe,  126. 
Shad  roe  croquettes.  No.  1, 126. 

No.  2,  126. 
Salt  mackerel,  127. 


578 


GENERAL  INDEX 


Creamed  mackerel,  127. 

Salt  codfish,  127. 

Club  house  fish-balls,  128. 

Broiled  sardines  on  toast,  128. 

Fresh  fish-balls,  128. 

Salmon,  128. 

Canned  salmon,  129. 

Salmon  cutlets,  129. 

Broiled  slices  of  salmon,  129. 

Slices  of  salmon  vrith  mayonnaise,  129. 

toilets  of  salmon  for  green  luncheon,  130. 

Croufitade  of  shrimps,  130. 


Shdi-fltih,  Lobsters,  and  Grabs. 

Oysters,  131. 
Raw  oysters,  131. 
Precaution,  131. 
Cooking,  131. 
Fried  oysters,  132. 
Oysters  h,  la  Villeroi,  132. 
Broiled  oysters,  132. 
Panned  oysters,  133. 
Roasted  oysters,  133. 
Oysters  h,  la  poulette,  133. 
Scalloped  oysters,  134. 
Oyster  filling  for  patties,  184. 
Clams,  135. 
To  open  clams,  135. 
Creamed  clams,  135. 
Roasted  clams,  136. 
Clam  fritters,  138. 
Scallops,  136. 
Lobsters,  136. 
Season,  136. 
Freshness,  136. 
To  kill  a  lobster,  136, 
Boil  a  lobster,  136. 
Open  a  lobster,  137. 
Broil  a  lobster,  137. 
Bake  a  lobster,  137. 
Lobster  farci,  138. 
Chops,  138. 
k  la  Newburg,  139. 
Stew,  140. 

Filling  for  patties,  140. 
Salpicou  of  lobster,  140. 
Crabs,  141. 
Deviled  crabs,  141. 
Stuffed  crabs  with  mnshrooms,  142. 
Soft  shell  crabs,  142. 
Oyster-crabs,  143. 

Crabs  St.  Laurent  (chafing-dish),  143. 
Crab  stew,  144. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
MeeOt. 

General  remarks,  146. 

Slow  cooking,  146. 
Juices,  145. 

Degree  of  cooking,  145. 
Cleaning,  146. 
Seasoning,  145. 
Fieroing,  146. 


Beef. 

To  roast  beef,  146. 

Rolled  roast  beef,  146. 

Yorkshire  pudding,  147. 

Round  of  beef,  147. 

Braised  beef,  147. 

A  la  mode,  148. 

Boullli,  149. 

Fillet  of  beef,  149. 

How  to  buy  a  fiUet,  150. 

Cold  roast  beef,  151. 

Scalloped  meat,  151. 

Hamburg  steaks,  151. 

Beef  pie,  152.  ,    ,       __ 

Warmed-over  beef  (chafing-dish),  162. 

Inside  flank,  153. 

Ragout  of  beef,  153. 

Beefsteaks,  155. 

To  broil  a  beefsteak,  156. 

Chateaubriand,  157. 

Mignon  fillets,  157. 

Corned  beef,  157. 

Corned  beef  hash,  158. 

Hash,  158. 

Brown  hash,  159. 

Marrow  bones,  169. 


Mutton. 

Remarks  about  mutton,  160. 
Roast  leg  of  mutton,  162. 

Loin  of  mutton,  162. 

Saddle  of  mutton,  162. 
Rolled  loin  of  mutton,  162. 
Shoulder  of  mutton  stuffed,  163. 
Boiled  mutton,  163. 
Caper  sauce,  164. 
Ragout  of  mutton  or  lamb,  164. 

of  Cold  boiled  mutton,  165. 
Irish  stew,  165. 
Mutton  chops,  165. 
Chops  in  paper  cases,  166. 

h  ui  Maintenon,  167. 
Spring  lamb,  167. 


Teal. 

Remarks  about  veal,  168. 

To  roast  fillet  of  veal,  168. 

Stuffed  shoulder  of  veal,  168. 

Fricandeau  of  veal,  169. 

Veal  cutlets,  169. 

A  plain  potpie,  169. 

Dumplings  with  baking-powder,  170. 

Dumplings  with  suet,  171. 

JeUied  veal,  171. 

Veal  loaf,  171. 

Veal  scallop,  171. 

Liver  and  bacon,  172. 

Broiled  liver,  172. 

Braised  liver,  172. 

Stewed  kidneys,  173. 

Tripe,  173. 

Calf  8  heart,  174. 

Beefs  tongue,  174. 

Hot  sliced  tongue,  174. 


GENERAL  INDEX 


579 


Cold  tongue,  175. 

Jellied  tongue,  175. 

Boiled  calf^s  head,  176, 

Calf's  Iiead  wltli  Yinalgxette  sauce,  176. 


Pork. 

Roast  port,  176. 

Fried  apples,  176. 

Pork  Chops,  177. 

Boiled  ham,  177. 

Baked  ham,  177. 

Broiled  ham  and  eggs,  178. 

Ham  and  eggs  h  I'auroi-e,  178. 

Bacon,  178. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Poultry  and  Oame. 

Chickens,  179. 

To  judge  of  chickens,  179. 

To  clean  and  draw  poultry,  180. 

To  bone  a  fowl,  181. 

Roasted  boned  chicken,  182. 

Braised  boned  chicken,  182. 

Jellied  boned  chicken,  182. 

Forcemeat  or  stuffing  for  boned  fowls,  183. 

To  truss  a  fowl,  183. 

Roasted  chicken,  184, 

Stuffing  for  fowls,  184. 

Chestnut  stuffing,  186. 

Giblet  sauce,  185. 

Boiled  chicken,  185. 

Braised  chicken,  186. 

Broiled  chicken,  186. 

Fricasseed  chicken,  white  and  brown,  186. 

Fried  chicken,  187. 

Chicken  fritters,  187. 

Stuffed  chicken  or  turkey  legs,  188. 

Grilled  bones,  188. 

Chicken  h  la  Vienne,  189. 

Baltimore  style,  189. 

Imperial,  189. 

Breasts  with  poulette  sauce,  190. 

Chartreuse,  190. 

Souffle,  190. 

Loaf.  191. 

Chaudfroid,  191. 

Mayonnaise,  192. 
English  chicken  pie  (cold),  192. 
Turkey,  193. 

Galantine  or  boned  turkey,  193. 
Roast  goose,  194. 
Tame  ducks,  195. 


Oame. 

Canvasbacks  and  redhead  ducks,  196. 

Salmi  of  duck  or  game,  196. 

Potted  pigeons,  197. 

Roasted  pigeons  or  squabs,  197. 

Prairie  chicken  or  grouse,  roasted,  197. 

Quails  roasted,  198. 

Broiled,  198. 
Snipe  and  woodcock,  roasted,  198. 


Partridges,  roasted  and  broiled,  199. 
Venison,  199. 
Steak,  199. 


CHAPTER  VL 

Yegetdblea. 

General  directions,  200. 
Potatoes,  boiled,  201. 

Mashed,  201. 

Cakes,  201. 

Rice,  202. 

Souffle,  202. 

Roses,  202. 

Croquettes,  202. 

Balls,  203. 

Omelet,  203. 

Creamed,  203. 

BroUed,  204. 

Baked,  204. 

Stuffed,  204. 

Baked  with  meat,  204. 

Lyonnaise,  204. 

Fried,  205. 

Balls,  fried,  and  straws,  20S. 

Saratoga,  206. 

Puffed,  206. 
Sweet  potatoes  boiled,  206. 
"       Baked,  206. 
"       Browned,  206. 
"       Croquettes,  207. 
"       Pur6e,  207. 
Tomatoes,  stewed,  207. 

Scalloped,  207. 

Stuffed,  207. 

Roasted,  208. 

Broiled,  208. 

Farci,  208. 
Green  peas,  209. 
Pur^e  of  peas,  209. 
String  beans,  209. 
Flageolets,  210. 
Lima  beans,  210. 
Spinach,  210. 

Souffle,  211. 
Chartreuse  of  spinach  or  cabbage,  211. 
Asparagus,  211. 

Tips,  212. 
Cabbage,  212. 
BoUed  cabbage,  212. 

with  cheese,  213. 

Swedish,  213. 
Hot  slaw,  214. 
Brussels  sprouts,  214. 
Cauliflower,  214. 

au  gratin,  215. 
Egg-plant,  215. 

Stuffed,  215. 
Peppers,  stuffed,  215. 
Chestnut  pur^e,  215. 
Celery,  stewed,  216, 

aujus,  216. 
Carrots  and  turnips,  216. 
Mac^doine  of  vegetables,  216. 
Dried  beans,  217. 
Boiled     "      217. 
Baked     "     217. 


580 


GENERAL  INDEX 


Pnr^  of  beans,  217. 
Croquettes  of  Beans,  217. 
Beets,  217. 

Summer  squasli,  218. 
Parsnips,  218. 
Cucumbers,  boiled,  218. 

Stuffed,  218. 
Lettuce  stewed,  219. 
Onions,  219. 

Spanish  onions,  stuffed,  219. 
Coru  on  tlie  ear,  220. 

Moot  oysters,  220. 

Canned,  220. 
Succotash,  220. 
Artichokes,  220. 

Bottoms,  221. 

CHAPTER  VTL 

Farineieeous  Foods  used  as  Yegetables- 
Recdptsfor  Macaroni—  Cereals. 

To  boil  rice,  222. 
Bice  and  tomatoes,  223. 
Parched  rice,  223. 
Farina  baUs,  223. 
Hominy  fried,  224. 
Commeal  mush  fried,  224. 


Receipts  for  Macaroni. 

Macaroni,  224. 
Spaghetti,  225. 

Bi^ed  macaroni  with  cheese,  225. 
"        an  gratin,  225. 
"        with  tomato    or   other 

sauces,  225. 
Baked  macaroni  with  minced  meat,  226. 
Receipt  for  macaroni  from  Mrs.  Maspero, 

226. 
Sauce  for  macaroni,  for  rissotto,  and  for 

polenta,  226. 
Sauce  for  macaroni  No.  2,  226. 

"  "  "     8,227. 

Polenta,  227. 
Risotto,  227. 


Cereals. 

Oatmeal  porridge,  227. 
Cracked  wheat,  228. 
Commeal  mush,  228. 


CHAPTER  Vm. 
A  Qroup  ofBeed,]^  firom  a  New  England 

Split-pea  soup,  229. 
Black  bean  soup,  229. 
Clam  soup,  230. 
Clam  chowder,  230. 
Fish  chowder,  230. 
Browned  oysters,  231. 
fish  and  oysters,  231. 


Scalloped  oysters,  231. 

Pickled  oystei-s,  2a2. 

Fricasseed  oysters,  232. 

Stewed  lobster,  232. 

Fish-balls,  232. 

Codfish  and  cream.  233. 

Oysters  on  a  chafing-dish,  288. 

Pilau,  233. 

Spiced  shad,  233. 

Pork  and  beans,  234. 

A  reehaiiffd  of  cold  mutton,  231, 

Corned  beef,  234. 

A  beefsteak  pie,  235. 

Easy  chicken  salad,  23S. 

Cream  dressing,  235. 

Macaroni  i\  I'albi,  236. 

Com  pudding,  236. 

Thin  Indian  bread,  236. 

Graham  gems,  237. 

Colonial  hoe-cakes,  237. 

Rhode  Island  johnny-cake,  23T. 

Boston  brown  bread,  237. 

Dabs,  238. 

Cream  oatmeal,  238. 

Zephyrs,  238. 

Squash  pies,  238. 

Pumpkin  pies,  239. 

A  rule  for  simple  pie-crust,  239. 

A  boiled  Indian  pudding,  239. 

A  baked  Indian  pudding,  239. 

Orange  Indian  pudding,  241. 

Blueberry  pudding,  241. 

A  peach  pudding,  241. 

Cherry  bread,  241. 

Lemon  rice  pudding,  242. 

Bermuda  pudding,  242. 

Rice  and  marmalade  pudding,  242. 

Molasses  pie,  242. 

Prune  jelly  with  almonds,  243. 

Clarified  apples,  243. 

Lemon  ice,  243. 

Apple  sauce,  243. 

Stewed  pears,  244. 

Cranberry  jellj',  244. 

Hartford  election  cake,  244. 

Instantaneous  frosting,  244. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Distinctively  Southern  Dishes. 

General  remarks,  246. 
Pone,  246. 
Hoe-cake  No.  1, 246. 

No.  2,  247. 
Kentucky  com  dodgers,  247. 
Maryland  beaten  biscuits,  247. 
Soft  com  bread.  247. 
Southern  way  of  cooking  rice,  248. 
Chicken  gumbo,  249. 
Gumbo  file  (New  Orleans),  248. 


Very  Inexpensive  Dixies. 

Very  lnexi)en8ive  dinners,  249. 
To  prepare  a  sliin  of  beef,  250. 
«      •«  "  another  way,  a5a 


GENEEAL  INDEX 


581 


Beefsteak  pudding,  251. 

Menus  for  inexpensive  dinners,  252. 

Scotch  broth,  252. 

Tapiocii  and  apples,  252. 

Veal  with  white  sauce,  253. 

Puritted  cabbage,  253. 

Chops  cut  from  the  shoulder,  253. 

Apple  dumpUngs,  253. 

Curry,  254. 

Madras  curry,  254. 

Liver  saute,  255. 

Breast  of  mutton,  255. 

Tomato  soup,  255. 

Carrot       "    256.  ^ 

Potato       "    256. 

Bean         "    256. 

Celery       "    256. 


Miscellaneous  receipts. 

Sterilized  milt,  257. 
Devonshire  cream,  No.  1,  258. 
"  "        No.  2, 258. 

To  make  fresh  butter,  258. 
To  make  white  hard  soap,  259. 
Floor  polish,  260. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Hffgs. 

To  judge  of  freshness,  and  how  to  pre- 
serve eggs,  261. 
Boiled  eggs,  262. 

"  "      1,  262. 

"  "      2,  262. 

"  "      3,  262. 

Poached  eggs.  No.  1,  263. 

"  "      No.  2,  French  style,  263. 

"  "       No.  3,  263. 

Fried         "      264. 
Scrambled,  264. 
Plain  f^rench  omelet,  264. 
Variations  of  the,  265. 

No.  1,  265. 

No.  2,  265. 

No.  3,  green,  266. 

No.  4,  aux  fines  herbes,  266. 

No.  5,  with  peas  or  tomatoes,  266. 

No.  6,  with  ham,  266. 
Beaten  omelet,  266. 
Shirred  eggs,  266. 

sur  le  plat,  266. 

au  miroir,  266. 

cocotte,  266. 
Molded  eggs,  267. 

h,  la  polignac,  267. 
Ham  and  eggs,  268. 
Poached  eggs  on  anchovy  toast  (supper 

dish),  268. 
Poached  eggs  on  anchovy  toast  (entree 

for  luncheon),  268. 
Poached  egg  with  tomato,  268. 
Eggs  h  la  villeroi  (entree  for  luncheon), 

269. 
Egg  il  la  Bourgulnonne,  270. 
"     i^  I'aurore,  270. 


Golden  cream  toast,  270. 
Curried  eggs,  271. 
Stuffed     "     No.  1, 271. 

"        "       "    2,272. 
Egg  croquettes,  272. 
Other  ways  of  serving  hard-hoilod  eggs, 

272. 
Tomatoes  stuffed  with  eggs,  272. 
CEufs  h  la  reine, )  r»„„„^*„„,„„i„K  xr  v 
Eggs  Livingston  [Down  town  club, N.Y., 

273. 
Eggs  au  beurre  noir,  273. 
Spanish  omelet,  274. 

CHAPTER  XL 

Satices. 

General  directions,  275. 
Glaze,  277. 

Roux  for  sauces,  277. 
White  sauce,  277. 

"         •'       for  flsh,  278. 
Egg        "       278. 
Caper     "      279. 
Oyster  "       279. 
Celery    "       279. 
Lobster "       279. 
Veloutfe  and  aUemande,  279. 
Bfechamel,  279. 
Poulette,  280. 
Villeroi,  280. 
HoUandaise,  281. 
Chaudfroid,  281. 
Brown  sauce,  282. 
Espagnole,  282. 
Champagne  sauce,  283. 
Piquante  "      283. 

Soubise  "       284. 

Horseradish     "      284. 
Mustard  "      284. 

Curry  "      284. 

Olive  "      285. 

Tomato  "      285. 

Mushroom         "      286. 
Maltre  d'hdtel,  286. 
Mint  sauce,  287. 
Bread  sauce,  287. 
Jelly  sauce,  287. 
Cranberry  sauce,  287. 
Apple,  288. 
Beamaise,  288. 
Mayonnaise,  288. 

White,  289. 

Green,  289. 

Red,  290. 

Jelly,  290. 

With  arrowroot,  290. 
Tartare,  290. 
Agra  dolce,  291. 


CHAPTER  XIL 

Entries. 

Croquettes,  general  directions  for  mak- 
ing, 292, 
The  Enterprise  chopper,  293. 


582 


GENERAL  INDEX 


Sauce  for  croquette  mixture,  293. 

To  mold  croquettes,  293. 

To  fry  croquettes,  294. 

Materials  used  for  croquettes,  295. 

Timbales,  296. 

Truffles,  296. 

Cream  chicken  forcemeat,  297. 

Cream  forcemeat  No.  2,  297. 

Fish  cream  forcemeat,  297. 

§ueiielle  forcemeat,  298. 
read  panada,  298. 
Flour  pauada,  298. 
To  mold  and  cook  timhales,  298. 
Salpicon,  299. 
Fontage  cup,  300. 
Pain  de  volaille,  300. 
QueneUes,  300. 
Palmettes,  301. 

Celestines  k  la  Maintenon,  301. 
Boudins  Rouennaise,  302. 
Macaroni  timiiale,  302. 
Honeycomb  timbale,  302. 
A  simple  timbale  of  halibut,  303. 
Pastry  timbale,  303. 
Potato  and  fish  timbale,  304. 
Vol-au-vent,  304. 
Patties,  305. 
Rissoles,  305. 

To  prepare  sweetbreads,  305. 
Baked  sweetbreads,  306. 
Braised  sweetbreads,  306. 
Bautted  sweetbreads,  306. 
Fried  sweetbreads,  306. 
Sweetbreads  k  la  poulette,  306. 
Chaudfroid  of  sweetbreads,  306. 
Calfs  brains,  307. 

Head  h  la  vinaigrette,  307. 
Marinade  of  brains,  307. 
False  terrapin,  308. 
Calfs  head  h  la  poulette,  308. 
Oyster  cases,  308. 

Liver  loaf,  or  false  p&t^  de  foie  gras,  308. 
Chicken  livers,  309. 
Sttiffed  mushrooms,  309. 
Chicken  purfee,  310. 
Oyster-crabs,  310. 
Entr^  of  oyster-crabs,  310. 


Terrapin. 

Terrapin,  general  remafks  about,  311. 

To  prepare,  312. 

Stewed  in  Maryland  style,  313. 

h  la  Newburg,  313. 
Frogs'  legs,  fried,  313. 

h  la  poulette,  313. 


Mushrooms. 

Remarks  about  mushrooms,  314. 

Cooking  mushrooms,  316. 

The  Fairy  Ring  Champignon  (MarasmiuB 

Oreades),  317. 
The  Agarious  Campestrls,  317. 

Procerus,  318. 

Russula,  318. 


Coprinus  Comatus,  318. 

Atramentarius,  318. 
The  Boleti.  318. 
Puff  balls,  319. 
Morchellae  Esculentae,  319. 
Hydnum  Caput  Medusae,  319. 
Clavaria,  319. 
To  dry  mushrooms,  320. 
Scalloped  mushrooms,  320. 
Mushrooms  h  la  poulette,  320. 


CHAPTER  Xni. 

Aspic  Jelly,  Fancy  Molding  Supports. 

Aspic  jelly,  321. 
To  clear  aspic,  322. 

8uick  aspic,  322. 
hicken  aspic  or  jelly,  323. 
Aspic  croiltons,  323. 
To  chop  jelly,  323. 

Mold  jelly,  323. 

UnmoldjeUy,  324. 

Ornament  molds,  324. 
Double  molds,  325. 
Decorations  for  meat  jelly,  326. 

Daisy  design,  326. 

Berry  design,  326. 
To  decorate  with  truffles,  326. 
Socles,  326. 

Rice  socle  or  casserole,  327. 
Potato  casserole,  327. 
A  potato  support  for  hot  meats,  328. 
Croustades  or  bread,  328. 
RoU  croustades,  328. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Chafing-dish  Cooking. 

The  chaflng-dlsh,  329. 

Kind  of  chafing-dish  to  use,  329. 

Russian  bowls,  329. 

Wooden  spoons,  330. 

Dishes  suitable  for  chafing-dish,  330. 

Panned  oysters,  331. 

Oyster  stew,  331. 

Creamed  oysters  and  clams,  331. 

Barbecue  of  tish,  331. 

Eggs  with  tomatoes.  332. 

Tomatoes  and  rice,  332. 

Creamed  dishes :  eggs,  chicken,  veal,  332. 

Dishes  h,  la  Newburg,  333. 

Terrapin,  333. 

Chicken  livers  with  Madeira,  333. 

Crab  toast,  334. 

Smelts  h.  la  Toulouse,  334. 

Meats,  335. 

Venison,  335. 

Mutton,  335. 

Beef,  335. 
"Welsh  rabbit  and  golden  buck,  33& 
Fondu-Savarin,  335. 
Pineapple  canapes,  336. 
Chocolate  made  with  condensed  milk,  337. 


GENERAL  INDEX 


583 


CHAPTEB  XV. 

Bread. 

Remarks  about  yeast,  338. 

Yeast,  338. 

Dick  Bennet's  receipt  for  yeast,  339. 

Yeast  receipt  No.  2,  339. 

What  to  do  when  yeast  is  not  obtainable 

to  start  the  fermentation,  339. 
Proportions  of  raisingmaterials  and  other 

items,  340. 
General  directions  for  making  bread,  340. 
Time,  340. 
Raising,  341. 

Proportions  of  material,  341. 
Mixing,  342. 
Making  a  sponge,  342. 
The  crust  on  dough,  342. 
Kneading  and  molding,  342. 
Baking,  343. 

Care  of  bread  after  it  Is  baked,  344. 
Baking  bread  rolls,  344. 
Flour,  344. 
Bread  pans,  344. 
Water  bread  No.  1,  345. 
"  "  "    2,345. 

Milk  bread,  345. 
Potato  bread,  345. 

Receipt  for  making  one  loaf  of  bread  or 
one  pan  of  biscuits  in  two  hours,  346. 
Bread  made  with  baking-powder,  346. 

Whole  wheat  flour,  346. 
Graham  bread,  346. 
Gluten  bread,  347. 
Boston  brown  bread,  347. 
Toast,  348. 
Milk  toast,  348. 
Panada,  348. 
Pulled  bread,  349. 
Zwieback,  349. 
Bread  fritters,  349. 
Bread  rolls,  349. 
Crescents,  350. 
Braids  and  twists,  350. 
Cleft  rolls,  351. 
Luncheon  and  tea  rolls,  351. 
Parker  House  rolls,  351. 
Tea  biscuits  made  with  baktng-powder, 
352. 

Sour  milk,  852. 
Corn  bread  No.  1,  353. 

"        "     No.  2,  353. 
Puffs  or  pop-overs,  364. 
Graham  gems,  354. 
Com  gems,  354. 
Muffins,  355. 
Raised  muffins,  355. 
English  muffins  or  crumpets,  356. 
Sally  Limn,  355. 
Waffles,  356. 
Hominy  cake,  356. 
Oat  cake,  356. 
Bran  biscuits,  357. 
Bread  sticks,  357. 
Rusks,  357. 
Dried  rusks,  358. 
Bath  buns,  358. 
Coffee  cake,  358. 


Brioche,  359. 

To  make  a  brioche  roll  with  head,  360. 

a  brioche  crown  or  ring,  360. 

Buus,  360. 
Brioche  for  timbales  or  cabinet  puddings, 

361. 
Pancakes,  361. 
Plain  pancakes,  362. 
Flannel  cakes,  362. 
Bice  pancakes,  362. 
Bread  pancakes,  362, 
Corumeal  pancakes,  363. 
Buckwheat  pancakes,  363. 
Adirondack  pancakes,  363. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Sandwiches  and  Canapia. 

General  remarks,  364. 

Shapes,  364. 

How  to  prepare  the  meat,  364. 

Butter,  365. 

Rolls,  365. 

How  to  prepare  the  bread,  365. 

Meat  sandwiches,  365. 

Fish  sandwiches,  366. 

Egg  sandwiches,  366. 

Salad  sandwiches,  366. 

Spanish  sandwiches,  367. 

Cheese  sandwiches  (mock  crab),  867. 

Raw-beef  sandwiches,  367. 

Sweet  sandwiches,  367. 

Canapes.  368. 

Cheese  canapes,  368. 

Ham  canapes,  368. 

Anchovy  canap^,  368. 

Sardine  canape,  368. 

Ganap^  Lorenzo,  369. 


Cheese  and  Cheese  DisTies. 

General  directions,  369. 
Cheese  souffl6,  370. 
Crackers  and  cheese,  371. 
Cheese  canapes,  371. 
Welsh  rarebit,  371. 
Golden  buck,  372. 
Cheese  straws  No.  1,  372. 

Straws  No.  2,  372. 

Patties.  373. 
Cottage  cheese,  373. 


CHAPTER  XVn. 

Salads. 

General  directions,  374. 
To  marinate,  374. 
Mayonnaise,  375. 
French  dressing,  375. 
Lettuce  salad,  376. 
Water-cresses  and  apples,  376. 
Celery  salad,  376. 


584 


GENEEAL  INDEX 


Cacumber  and  tomato  salad,  377. 

Cucumber  salad  to  serve  with  fisli,  377. 

String-bean  salad,  377. 

Bean  salads,  377. 

Cauliflower  salad,  377. 

Mac^doine  salad,  378. 

Potato  salad,  378. 

Cold  slaw,  378. 

Hot  slaw,  379. 

Tomato  salads,  379. 

No.  1,  379. 

No.  2,  stuffed  tomatoes,  380. 

No.  3,  tomatoes  and  eggs,  380. 

No.  ^,  molded  tomatoes,  380. 

No.  5,  tomato  jelly,  380. 
Celery  and  walnut  salad,  381. 
Sweetbreads  witb  celery,  381. 
Egg  salad  No.  i,38l. 

"      "        "   2, 38L 
Orange  salad,  381. 
Chicken  salad,  382. 
Lobster  salad,  382. 
Oyster  salad,  383. 
Bouilli  salad,  383. 
Bussian  salad,  383. 

Individual  salad,  383. 
Note,  384. 

Aspic  of  pate  en  Bellevue,  384. 
Chicken  aspic  with  walnuts,  384. 
Bird's-nest  salad,  385. 


CHAPTEB  XVHL 

Cold  Detserts, 

Information  pertaining  to  making  des* 

serts,  387. 
Utensils,  387. 

Table  of  weights  and  measures,  887. 
Proportions,  387. 
Materials,  388. 

Gelatine,  388. 

Chocolate,  388. 
To  melt  chocolate,  388. 
To  whip  eggs,  389. 
Sweetening  meiingue,  389. 
Milk  scalded,  389. 
Eaisins,  389. 

Thickening  fruit  juices,  889. 
When  to  add  flavoring,  389. 
Molding,  389. 
Liqueurs,  390. 
Wines,  390. 

Eau  de  vie  de  Bantzic,  390. 
VaniUa  bean,  390. 

Powder,  390. 

Sugar,  390. 
How  to  make  Tanilla  sugar,  391. 

Orange  sugar,  391. 

Lemon  sugar,  391. 

Rose  sugar,  391. 

Orange  and  lemon  syrups,  391. 

To  get  pistachio  flavor,  391. 
Peach-leaf  flavor,  391. 
Caramel,  391. 
How  to  make  candied  orange  or  lemon 

peel,  391. 
Coloring,  392. 


Garnishing,  392. 

California  candied  fruits,  392. 

Angelica,  392. 

Currants,  raisins,  nuts,  for  garnishing, 

393. 
Fresh  flowers  for  garnishing,  393. 
Colored  sugars  for  garnishing,  393. 

How  to  make,  393. 
Sauces  for  cold  sweet  dishes,  393. 
Canned  fruits,  393. 
The  store  closet,  394. 


Otistards. 

Boiled  custard  No.  1, 894. 
"  "  "    2,395. 

Floating  island,  396. 
Chocolate  custard,  396. 
Baked  custard,  396. 
Caramel  custard,  396. 
Chocolate  cream  custard,  397. 
Bennet,  397. 


Cornstarch  Puddings. 

No.  1,  a  plain  cornstarch  pudding,  397. 

No.  2,  cornstarch  with  canned  fruit,  398. 

No.  3,  cocoanut  pudding,  398. 

No.  4,  chocolate  pudding.  398. 
Cornstarch  chocolates,  398. 
Blanc-mange  or  white  jelly,  399. 
Plum-puddmg  jelly,  399. 


Bavarian  Creams, 

General  rul&<?  for,  400. 

Plain  Bavarian  cream,  400. 

Chocolate  Bavarian  cream,  401. 

Italian  cream  or  Bavarian  without  cream, 

401. 
Fruit  Bavarian,  401. 

Rice  Bavarian,  or  Riz  fi  I'imp^ratrloe,  402. 
Bavarian  panachfee,  402. 

en  surprise,  402. 
Diplomatic  pudding,  403L 

Bavarian,  403. 


Charlotte  Eusse. 

Charlotte  russe,  fllling,  No.  1,  404. 

No.  2  (with  eggs),  405. 

No.  3  (with  fi-uit),  405. 

No.  4,  405. 

No.  5,  405. 
Timbale  of  brioche,  406. 
Charlotte  princesse  de  Galles,  406. 
Strawberry  Charlotte,  406. 
G&teau  St.  Honor6,  407. 
Croquenbouche  of  macaroons,  408. 


Whipped  Cream. 

How  to  whip  cream,  408. 
Whips,  409. 


GENERAL  INDEX 


585 


How  to  whip  cream. 
Czarina  cream,  410. 
Chestaut  pur^e  witb  cream,  410. 
Cliestnuts  with  cream,  410. 


Uses  for  Stale  Cake. 

Pine  cones,  411. 
Cake  with  custard,  411. 
Trifle  (Esther),  411. 
Banana  trifle  (Martha),  412. 


Sweet  JeUiea, 

Points  to  ohserre  in  making  jellies,  412. 

Dissolving,  412. 

Proportions,  413. 

Clarifying,  413. 

Molding  for  fancy  jellies,  413. 

Serving  jellies,  414. 

To  clarify  fruit  juices,  416. 

Wine  jelly,  415. 

Lemon  jelly,  415. 

Orange  jelly,  415. 

Coffee  jelly,  416. 

Champagne  jelly,  416. 

Champagne  Jelly  with  flowers,  416. 

Whipped  jelly  or  snow  pudding,  417. 

Jellies  with  fruits  (mac6doine),  417. 

Eussian  jellies,  417. 

Ribbon  jelly.  418. 

Italian  jelly,  418. 

Dantzie  jelly,  418. 

What  to  do  with  jeUy  left  over,  418. 


Pains  aux  Fruits  or  Jellied  Fruits. 

Pain  de  fraises  (strawberries),  419. 

Supreme  of  strawberries,  419. 

Pain  de  riz  aux  fruits  (rice  with  fruits), 

419. 
Pain  de  riz  ^  la  princesse,  419. 
Pain  d'oranges  (oranges),  420. 

de  pfiches  (peaches),  420. 

de  marrons  (chestnuts),  420. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
Hot  Desserts. 

Soufil^s,  421. 

Omelet,  422. 

Vanilla,  422. 

Chocolate,  423. 

Prune,  423. 

Apple,  424. 
Fanua  pudding,  424. 


FriOera. 

Fritter  batter,  426. 

Apple  fritters,  427. 

Peach  or  apricot  fritters,  427. 

Orange  fritters,  427. 

Biscmt  dough,  428. 

Balloons,  428. 

Batter  pudding,  428. 


Desserts  made  of  Apple*. 

Snow  apple  pudding,  429. 
Brown  Betty,  429. 
Baked  apple  dumplings,  429. 
Apple  Charlotte,  430. 
Apples  with  rice.  No.  1,  430. 

"  '•        "        "    2,431. 

With  cornstarch  (Felice),  432. 
Flaming  apples,  432. 
Baked  apples  (for  breakfast),  432. 

"  •'        (for  luncheon),  432. 

Tapioca  pudding,  433. 


Rice  Puddings. 

Plain  rice  pudding  No  1,  433. 
"         "  "  "    2,433. 

Rice  and  raisins,  434. 


Bread  Puddings. 

Bread  pudding,  434. 

Bread  and  butter  pudding,  434. 

Bread  tarts,  435. 


Cake  Puddings. 

Cottage  pudding,  435. 

Canary  pudding,  436. 

Suet  puddiug,  436. 

Farina  pudding,  boiled,  436. 

Christmas  plum  pudding,  437. 

Fig  pudding,  438. 

Cabinet  pudding  No.  1, 438. 

"  "         "     2  439. 

"  "         "    3'(royale),  439. 

"  "         "    4,440. 

Savarins,  440. 
Baba,  440. 


Custards. 

Crfime  Parisienne,  441. 
Fried  Cream,  441. 


Sweet  Omeleta, 


Orange  omelet,  426. 
Jam  omelet,  425. 
Rum  omelet.  426. 
Sweet  pancakes,  426. 


Shortcakes, 

Strawberry  shortcake,  442. 
Currant  shortcake,  442. 
Strawberry  cake,  443. 
Roly-poly  pudding,  443. 


586 


GENEEAL  INDEX 


Fruit  pudding,  443. 
Baked  Indiau  pudding,  443. 


Pudding  Sauces. 

Plain  pudding  sauce  No.  1  (hot),  444. 
"       "  2  (cold),  445. 
Eicli  pudding  sauce,  445. 
Foamy  pudding  sauce,  445. 
Brandy,  ruui,  or  kirsch  sauce,  445. 
Sabayon  No.  1,  446. 
"  "   2,  446. 

Syrup  sauce,  446. 
Fruit  sauces,  446. 
Apricot  sauce,  446. 
Pur^e  of  fruit,  447. 
Pineapple  sauce,  447. 
Boiled  custard  sauce,  447. 
Chocolate  sauce,  447. 
Bischoff  sauce,  447. 
Richelieu  sauce,  448. 
Meringue  sauce,  449. 
Hard  sauce,  448. 
StrawbeiTy  sauce,  449. 
Cocoanut  sauce,  449. 
Cold  jelly  sauce,  449. 


Sponge  cake  No.  1,  466. 

•'        •'    2,  466. 

"        "    3,  466. 
White  sponge  or  angel  cake,  467. 
Sunshine  cake,  467. 
Genoese  cake,  467. 
Jelly  rolls,  468. 
Layer  cakes  —  chocolate,  vanilla,  coffee, 

468. 
Cream  tilling,  468. 
Chocolate  tlliing,  469. 
Orange  cake,  469. 

Filling,  469. 
Pistachio  cake,  469. 
Plain  cup  cake,  470. 
Gold  and  silver  cake,  470. 
Marble  cake,  470. 
Richer  cup,  or  1,  2,  3,  4  cake,  471. 
Pound  cake,  471. 
White  cake,  471. 
Plain  f niit  cake,  472. 
Brod  torte,  472. 
Fruit  cake  (rich),  473. 
Cream  cakes  and  feclairs,  473. 
Cream  cakes,  474. 

Chocolate,  vauilla,  and  coffee  Eclairs,  474. 
Carolines,  475. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

IHes. 

Plain  pastry  for  pies,  451. 

Pastry  for  tarts  or  open  pies,  452. 

Tart  pies,  452. 

Orange  pie,  453. 

A  plain  apple  pie,  454. 

Pumpkin  pie,  454. 

Mince  pie  mixture,  454. 

Cream  pie,  455. 

Cocoanut  pie,  456. 

Cranberry  pie,  456. 

Washington  pie,  457. 


Puff-Faste. 

General  rules,  457. 
Receipt  for  puff-paste,  468. 
Pat^  shells,  460. 
Tart  bands,  460. 
Millefeuilles,  461. 
Tartlets,  461. 
Paganini  tartlets,  461. 
To  glaze  or  egg  pastry,  461. 


CHAPTER  XXL 

Cake. 

Rules  for  making  cake,  462. 
How  to  beat  eggs,  463. 

To  line  tins  with  paper,  463. 

To  grease  pane,  464. 

To  bake  cake,  464. 
Mixing  sponge  cake,  465. 

Cake  made  with  butter,  466. 


Fancy  Small  Cakes. 

Meringues  and  kisses,  476. 
Lady-fingers,  476. 
Macaroons,  477. 
Cocoanut  balls  or  cones,  477. 
Madeleines  No.  1,  477. 
"  "      2,  478. 

Little  pound  cakes,  478. 
Orange  quarters,  478. 
Almond  wafers,  478. 
Venetian  cakes,  479. 
Oaufl:re8,479. 


Jumbles,  Cookies,  and  Plain  Cakes. 

Jumbles,  480. 
Sand  tarts,  480. 
Rolled  jumbles,  480. 
Plain  cookies,  481. 
Ginger  snaps,  481. 
Crullers,  481. 
Doughnuts,  481. 
Bread  cake,  482. 
One-egg  cake,  482. 
Warren's  cake,  482. 
Molasses  wafers,  482. 
Soft  gingerbread,  483. 
Molasses  cake,  483. 


leing  and  Decorating  Cakes. 

Royal  icing,  483. 

"      with  confectioner's    sugar, 
484. 
Boiled  icing  No.  1,  484. 
"    2,484. 
Chocolate  icing  No.  1,  484. 


GENERAL  INDEX 


587 


Chocolate  icing  No.  2,  486. 
"        "    3,485. 
Icing  for  small  cakes,  485. 
Coffee  icin^  for  6clairs,  485. 
Fondant  icing,  486. 


Qamishing  Cakes. 

With  powdered  sugar,  486. 

Chopped  nuts,  486. 

Colored  sugars,  486. 

Two  colors,  486. 
To  decorate  in  designs,  487. 


CHAPTER  XXn. 

Frozen  Desserts. 

leerOreams,  Water-Ices,  Par/ails,  Mousses, 
Frozen  Fruits,  Punches,  and  Sherbets. 

Eemarks  about  frozen  desserts,  488. 
Classiflcation  of  ice-creams,  488. 
General  rules  for  making  ice-creams,  489. 
The  cream,  489. 

Sugar,  489. 

Custards,  489. 

"         for  biscuits  and  parfaits,  490. 
Freezing,  490. 
Packing,  490. 
Molding,  491. 
Fancy  moldiug,  491. 
Unmolding,  493. 
Ornamental  creams,  493. 
Individual  creams,  493. 
VaniUa  ice-creams,  494. 

No.  1,  Philadelphia,  494. 

No.  2,  American  (very  plain),  495. 

No.  3,  French,  495. 
Chocolate  ice-cream,  496. 
Caramel  ice-cream  No.  1,  496. 
"  "    2,497. 

CoflFee  ice-cream  No.  1,  497. 
"  "  "    2,497. 

Wliite  or  angel  ice-cream,  497. 
Italian  meringue,  498. 
Rice  ice-cream,  498. 
Pistachio  ice-cream,  498. 
Neapolitan  ice-cream,  498. 
Nesselrode  pudding,  499. 
Plum  pudding  glace,  500. 
Sauce  for  plum  pudding  glao^  or  for  Nes- 
selrode pudding,  501. 
Tutti  f ruttl,  501. 
Fruit  ice-creams,  601. 

No.  1,  501. 

No.  2,  501. 

No.  3,  502. 

No.  4,  fruit  puddings,  502. 
Nut  ice-creams,  602. 


Parfaits. 

General  remarks  about  parfaits,  602. 
Sugar  R5Tnip,  503. 
Vanilla  parfait,  503, 


Maple  parfait,  604. 

Parfait  au  caffe  and  caf6  pralin^,  604. 

Chocolate  parfait  and  chocolate  praUn6, 

504. 
Praline  iwwder,  505. 
Angel  parfait,  505. 

Imp^ratrice  or  rice  pudding  glac^i  506. 
Parfaits  of    chestnuts,   candied  fruits, 

fresh  fruits  or  berries,  606. 
Biscuits  glace,  50C. 


Mousses. 

Fruit  mousses,  507. 

Golden  mousse  (made  without  oream), 
607. 


Water^4ies. 


Orange  Ice,  508. 
Lemon  ice,  508. 
Strawberry  ice,  508. 


Ptinehes  and  Sherbets. 


about    punches  and 


General  remarks 

sherbets,  508. 
Coffee  punch,  509. 
Caffe  frappe,  509. 
LaUa  Rookh,  509. 


CHAPTER  XXni. 

Boiling  Sugar  and  Making  Candies- 

Bontng  sugar,  510. 

Granulation,  511. 

-Degrees  of  boUing  sugar,  612. 

Syrups,  513. 

Fondant,  513. 

To  make  fondant,  514. 

Spun  sugar,  515. 

Directions  for  spinning  sugar,  615. 

Glac^  oranges  and  grapes,  516. 

Candies, 

General  remarks  about  candy  makings 

617. 
Nougat  No.  1  (for  bonbons),  518. 

"         "     2  (for  molding),  619. 

"         "     3  (soft  white  nougat),  619. 

"        "     4  (bonbons),  520. 
Burnt  almonds,  520. 
Sugared  almonds,  520. 
Marrons  glac^,  521. 
Marshmallows,  521. 
Chocolate  caramels,  522. 
Caramels,  vanilla,  coffee,  maple,  622. 

Bonbons  of  Fondant. 

Harlequin  balls,  522. 
Neapolitan  squares,  623. 


688 


GENERAL  INDEX 


Nut  creams,  523. 

Sugar-plums,  523. 

Chocolate  creams,  524. 

Creamed  nuts  and  creamed  fmits,  624. 

Cocoanut  creams,  624. 

Cakes,  525. 
Peppermint  creams,  526. 
Chocolate  peppermints,  525. 
To  make  starch  molds  and  cast  candies, 
626. 


Candies  made  frorm  Sugar  Boiled  to  the 
Crack  or  the  Caramel. 

Peppermint  drops,  526. 

Carameled  nuts,  526. 

Almond  hardbake,  526. 

Peanut  candy,  527. 

TaflFy,  627. 

Molasses  candy,  627. 

Candied  orange  a>nd  lemon  peel,  627. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Fruits. 

General  remarks,  629. 

Apples,  530. 

Oranges,  630. 

Grape  fruit,  530. 

Peaches,  530. 

Strawberries,  530. 

Berries,  531. 

Currants,  531. 

Bananas,  sliced,  sauted,  fried,  631. 

Stewed  figs,  531. 

Salpicon  of  fruits,  532. 

Melons,  532. 

Frozen  fruits,  532. 

Quinces,  baked,  632. 

Nuts,  532. 

Salted  almonds,  633. 

"  "       No.  2, 533. 

"       English  walnuts  and  filberts,  533. 
Salpicon  of  fruit  punch,  534. 
Punch  of  white  California  canned  cher- 
ries, 534. 
Jellied  fruit,  534. 
Fruit  Juices,  634. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Compotes— Preserving  and  Canning— 
JPickles. 

Compotes,  635. 
Compote  of  apples,  535. 

"         "  pears,  536. 

"         "  oranges,  536, 

"         "  peaches  and  apricots,  536. 
Preserving  and  canning,  636. 
Preserved  peaches,  537. 

"         pears,  538. 

"  plums,  538. 

"         grapes,  539. 

•♦         strawberries  No.  1,  539. 


Preserved  strawberries  No.  2,  640. 
"       raspberries,  640. 
"       citron,  540. 
Canning,  640. 
Jams  or  marmalades,  541. 

Quince  marmalade,  542. 

Orange  "  542. 

Apple  "  543. 

Brandy  peaches,  543. 
Jellies,  543. 

Currant  or  berries,  643. 

Apple  jelly,  544. 

Crub-apple  jelly,  644. 

Quince  jeUy,  544. 

Spiced  grapes,  544. 

Plum  sauce  for  meats,  644. 


PicTcles. 

Sweet  pickled  peaches  and  plums,  645. 
Pickled  walnuts,  545. 

"       cucumbers  or  gherkins,  646. 
Green  tomato  pickles,  466. 
Chow-chow,  546. 
Nasturtium  pickle,  647. 


CHAPTER  XXVL 

Beverages. 

Filtered  water,  648. 
To  freeze  carafes,  548. 
Tea,  549. 
The  tea  bag,  550. 
"       "  ball,  650. 
Russian  tea,  660. 
Tea  punch,  550. 
Iced  tea,  550. 
Coflfee,  551. 

Care  of  coflfee  beans,  661. 
Coffee  mixtures  and  brands.  561. 
To  make  coflfee,  651. 
Drip  coffee,  552. 
Boiled    "    553. 
Iced  caf^  au  lait,  553. 
Chocolate,  553. 
Cocoa,  554. 
Lemonade,  554. 
Orangeade,  664. 
Cobblers,  554. 
Claret  cup  No.  1,  555; 
"       "    2,  555. 
Champagne  cup  No.  1,  555. 
"  "       "   2,555. 

Moselle  cup,  555. 
Sauterne  cup,  556. 
Cider  cup,  556. 
The  Thorp  cocktail,  658. 
Egg-nog,  557. 
Milk  shake,  557. 
"    punch,  557. 
Fruit  syrups,  557. 
Grape  juice,  557. 
Raspberry  vinegar,  658. 
Koumiss,  558. 
Wines,  560. 


MEMORANDA  FOB  THE  COOK. 

Receipt Receipt 


Page Page 

Receipt Receipt. 


Page Page 

Receipt. Receipt. 


Page Page 

Receipt Receipt. 


Page Page 

Receipt Receipt. 


Page Page 

Receipt Receipt 


Page Page 

Receipt Receipt. 


Page Page 

Receipt - Receipt. 

Page Page 


MEMORANDA  FOB  THE  COOK. 


Receipt- 


Receipt.. 


Page 


Receipt- 


Page 
Receipt. 


Page- 


Receipt. 


Page 
Receipt.. 


Page 


Page. 


Receipt.. 


Receipt. 


Page 


Page 


Receipt Receipt. 


Page. 


Page 


Receipt Receipt. 


Page Page 

Receipt ., Receipt. 


Page 
Receipt.. 


Page — 
Receipt. 


Page 


MEMORANDA  FOB  THE  COOK. 


Beceipt- 


Beceipt. 


Page- 


Beceipt- 


Page 
Beceipt.. 


Page- 


Beceipt„ 


Page 

Beceipt.. 


Page. 


Page. 


Beceipt. 


Beceipt. 


Page 


Page 


Beceipt Beceipt. 


Page 
Beceipt. 


Page. 
Beceipt. 


Page 


Page. 


Beceipt Beceipt. 


Page - Page 

Beceipt Beceipt. 


Page 


Page., 


MEMORANDA  TOR  THE  COOK. 
Receipt Receipt 


Page Page 

Receipt Receipt. 


Page - Page 

Receipt. Receipt.. 


Page Page 

Receipt Receipt- 


Page Page 

Receipt Receipt. 


Page Page. 

Receipt Receipt. 


Page Page 

Receipt Receipt. 


Page Page -- 

Receipt Receipt. 

Page Page 


University  of  California 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

Return  this  material  to  the  library 

from  which  it  was  borrowed. 


THE  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Santa  Barbara 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW. 


50ni-9/66(G633888)0182 


WBIG 


3  1205  00217  3084 


_M  w  jbVA:ii9 


4  gills     =1  pint 

2  pints    =1  quart 

4  quarts  =1  gallon. 
16  onnces  =1  pound. 
^  kitchen  onpM  =1  g^. 
1  kitchen  capM  =^  pint  or  2  gilU. 
4  kitchen  capMs  =  1  qnart 

2  oupfols  of  granulated  sugar  )  _  , 
2J  cupfals  of  powdered  sugar  )  ~~ 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  of  sug^r=l  ounce. 

1  heaping  tablespoonfal  of  butter  >      „  ^        ^, 

Butter  size  of  an  egg  l  =^  ^''  °'  *  '""^^ 

1  cupful  of  butter = ^  ^ound. 

4  onpftals  of  flour  >      ,  ,    * 

,  1.      •  _j.   ^  =1  pound. 

1  heaping  quart  )  , 

8  round  tablespoonfols  of  drv  n^terial=l  cupM. 
16  tablespoonfols  of  Uquid        (|||||m^^^^^ 

A     000  582  584     q 
6  to  8  eggs  to  1  quart  of  milk  for  cusiariu*.  ■■ 

3  to  4  eggs  to  1  pint  of  milk  for  custards. 

1  saltspoonfol  of  salt  to  1  quart  of  milk  for  custards. 

1  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  to  1  quart  of  milk  for  custards. 

2  ounces  of  gelatine  to  If  quarts  of  liquid. 

4  heaping  tablespoonfnls  of  cornstarch  to  1  quart  of  milk. 

3  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  to  1  quart  of  flour. 
1  even  teaspoonftil  of  baking-powder  to  1  cupfol  of  flour. 

1  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  1  pint  of  sour  milk. 
1  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  ^  pint  of  molasses. 
1  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  is  the  equivalent  of  ^  tea- 
spoonful of  soda  and  1  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 

For  other  proportions,  see  page  340. 
Por  measuring,  see  page  77. 


<-..n-.^.^y^«».'^J^^ 


*^'% 


CM 


■r-.     ■■ft'/;      ;;- 


f^^45 


:<^; 


''^ 


.?*UK-.' 


